Tune Input Shaping With The Included Sensor - Sonic Pad Intermediate Part 5

[@RevK777]

I am very new to 3d printing, and i absolutly love it. Your videos are helping me so much. Please keep making videos for us rookies.

[@johnlouden7661]

Thanks!

[@RickyImpey]

Thanks John👍

[@C64_and_Amiga_Memories]

Thanks. I really like these video's. Straight to the point. Shame creality are not even close to this type of tutorial

[@josetarapuez5878]

Excelentes videos, felicidades. ¿En este punto los valores de resonancias medidos y el tipo de modelador están comentados, había que quitarle el “#” en cada línea del inputshaper ? 4:35

[@RickyImpey]

Disculpas, cuando filmo, a menudo tengo que saltar hacia adelante y hacia atrás entre diferentes configuraciones para obtener el metraje que quiero. Es posible que haya mostrado el archivo incorrecto. Lo investigaré y veré qué dice el archivo cfg.

[@LEKProductions]

No brackets available for the Titan extruder, unfortunately

[@guesswhatteapots]

What an amazing y axis idea!

[@erdnac123]

Great videos. Thank's. The printer.cfg file (input shaper section) was not updated as it should. I had to write the values (found in the console) myself... Same thing for the pressure advance value. Strange !

[@RickyImpey]

Very strange🤔

[@erdnac123]

I tought the last section (save_config) of the printer.cfg file was all comments (because of the #). I just learn it is not ! I suppose I was looking at the wrong place for the shaping params.

[@oswaldoamaldonado6778]

@@erdnac123 How did you find out that they are not? I have the same doubt. I've performed the input shaping test twice and have different values in the printer.cfg; I don't know which one my printer is using.

[@jasonmiller5956]

Same for me - input_shaper still had commented out fields that did not match what console output suggested - had to fix manually

[@dancoon7653]

Thanks. Thats a genius idea for the Y axis :) Printing it now, also printing the X bracket for my CR6SE as I had assumed there wasn't one until I followed your link :) I'll redo the input shaping tests then as I had just stuck it down velcro command hooks 🤦‍♂

[@Z_o_A_T_Master_of_None]

How often will I need to move the G-Sensor from near the hot end to the bed?

[@StuFisher]

Hey Ricky.. Love the series.. Gone through it multiple times.. Just wanted to check though. When I check the input shaping in the printer.cfg the Input Shaping is Grayed out. With a # in the front. Should it be?

[@normanziegelmeyer7693]

Great video, thanks. If I have run the calibration once initially, what do I have to do to rerun it? does the routine overwrite previous procedures or do I have to change any settings before rerunning it? Thanks

[@RickyImpey]

It should just overwrite the configuration when you run the procedure again but I haven't actually tested this out myself to be 100% sure.

[@alexcrestani8593]

Hi Ricky, Amazing series this one. Using my Ender 5 Plus with Sonic Pad it recognize the sensor during the connection check but after starting the actual test it give me this type of error: - Can not update MCU {0} config cause it is shutdown I've tried to reboot the system and give a second try but nothing changed. Any idea of suggestion on what I should look after? Many thanks again for your help.

[@colinyounger8155]

I've done the X Y resonance test but it hasn't asked me to reposition the sensor on the bedplate.

[@SimonSays-Techtalk]

Hi Ricky, I was checking out your video on input shaping. My sonicpad did not ask me to save the settings onscreen. Instead, I noticed it was asking me to save the settings from the browser UI. Just FYI.

[@RickyImpey]

Yes, unfortunately things have changed a little with different firmware updates. It's always best to save and restart after changing any settings.

[@CptMiller1690]

Anyone have a problem with the test homing and immediately (test complete) after? its doesnt run the test ie ; shake the print head

[@billhaley8873]

Excellent.I had already done this but your 3D printed y axis idea was much better than the spring clip I used so I redid the measurements. I have a CR6SE and printed the bracket Creality supplied with the Sonic Pad but it did not fit so I simply drilled and tapped two holes in the extruder fan cover to mount the sensor.

[@RickyImpey]

Good work Bill👍

[@dannyg2922]

Just a quick one, I completed the both tests with no problem,I printed the y axis mount with a raft and preheated the bed to 70 before the test,was around 48 on completetion. My question is after the test it didnt reboot,i got a message saying completed but no restart just stayed in the advanced section screen. Im on the latest version of cura,many thanks

[@RickyImpey]

There are some changes with the new firmware unfortunately. It should save but if you are in any doubt, use the commant SAVE_CONFIG in the console and restart

[@dannyg2922]

@@RickyImpey Thank you Ricky

[@user-du2of3lh1g]

what if it didnt restart after test do i need to do it manually?

[@cooldudeloverboy]

Likewise, I just ran this step today and wasn't prompted to reboot. Bumping the question: Is there a way to ensure the configuration was changed?

[@seaniemcp2887]

So once I have run the tests. Does the sensor stay on the print head (X bracket)? On a ender 3 S1pro

[@kromecrowell]

My 2 cents is if you plan to print the Y axis bracket, attach the X axis bracket and sensor first. Then print the Y axis bracket and keep bed temp up during test. By the time I got to the Y axis step the bracket came right off

[@dj69brisbane]

yep, this indeed! and i only saw your comment after this happened. i ended up fastening the sensor for Y with some electric tape on the s1 pro bed handle :(

[@TheRealElectrofox]

Lol! I couldn't even get the sensor in because it was right under the extruder. He ought to have placed the finished print 3/4's of the way back...

[@ImNotLostButWhereAmI]

Any thoughts on why after successfully completing both tests the sonic pad does not reboot properly? When I select to continue by rebooting and saving results the screen goes black for a second then brings me right back to the beginning of the test (the screen where you select printer type). Your videos have been very helpful and other than this hiccup I’m enjoying working with my new sonic pad

[@RickyImpey]

Hmm, no mine hasn't done that to me. Have you tried a firmware update to see if it changes anything?

[@ImNotLostButWhereAmI]

@@RickyImpey I believe I updated it when I first got it just a few weeks ago but I’ll check and make sure it’s the latest. Thanks!

[@OhImKiCkiN]

Mine is doing the same thing. Im on the latest firmware. Did u find a fix

[@ImNotLostButWhereAmI]

@@OhImKiCkiN well I’m glad to know I am not alone lol unfortunately I have not found out why it behaves this way. If I look in my config file I see results from the input shaping so it seems to save despite not rebooting correctly. My printer is printing great but I still am not sure if it’s really operating correctly and running as well as it could.

[@alexandreplaideux9237]

Same thing for me... I think i m donna do it again@@ImNotLostButWhereAmI

[@Stryker25B]

I attempted using the y-axis sensor mount on my Ender 3 S1 Pro but found that by the time the x-axis test is complete, the bed has cooled to the point that the mount won't stay adhered to the bed. On my second attempt, I tried to pre-heat the bed immediately after printing the mount to keep it at temp. This failed because it causes the sonic pad to lose connection to the printer at the end of the sensor check. I ended up used gorilla double-sided tape to get through the test, but it's 1mm thick and a solid-gel consistency so I fear that might absorb some of the vibration and throw the test off. Would a mount that replaces the bed handle work better? I'd prefer the sensor be closer to the center of the bed for the test but i can't come up with a good solid mounting strategy for that.

[@RickyImpey]

Hi John, I used a PVA gluestick myself to make sure it didn't release on it's own afterwards. This worked well for me. Personally I'd avoid anything that could dampen the results like you say.

[@Stryker25B]

@@RickyImpey Thanks! I was hoping to avoid glue sticks altogether on this one, but I'll give that a shot once I'm done disassembling/reassembling the printer. I discovered today that Creality's "Easy 6-piece assembly" leaves a lot to be desired.

[@Houdini.C]

Thanks so much for the walk through videos! I preformed the resonance test and when i fineshed it I received an error that says REMOVE_MCU_RPI_CONFIG

[@68darus]

when I look in the printer config file after doing the test, the section 'input sensor' is hashed off. Does this mean that the figures will not be used?

[@RyanT-w1f]

Do you have to reattach to x when process is done?

[@MarcLuscher]

once the pad has run its tests can the unit be removed and returned to storage or must it remain on the printer ? seems like it can be removed ...

[@chefjoemac]

When I did this, it made he Y axis go haywire. My printer is in an enclosure, on my desk. Do you think it's sliding around?

[@damageplan1978]

I have a question how come after I did this test it didn’t restart my sonic pad? It did the same thing in some other videos.

[@RickyImpey]

The new firmware update changed things a little so it doesn't restart to save the config.

[@MacGuyverr]

Im not seeing where i can attach the sensor to my hotend with mine. I have an Ender 3 v2 with a touch on it. Im not seeing anywhere to mount the bracket or the sensor by itself. My senor also looks slightly different to yours, Its just a flat wire going to the pcb the sensor is on. Can i tape it to my hotend or will that upset the readings?

[@RickyImpey]

Did you download the brackets to print that Creality have listed for the E3v2? I haven't seen different sensors be supplied with the Sonic Pad, I wonder why yours is different.

[@MacGuyverr]

@@RickyImpey digging through the box I found the housing. It must have popped off or was never attached. I ended up screwing it to my touch sensor directly. Wasn't really sure how that bracket they supplied was supposed to go into my stock hot end w/ touch sensor.

[@coronitaflotante]

hi i have and ender 3 which i installed Klipper on with the sonic pad and used the ender 3v2 using 4.2.2 mother board. i have issues trying to calibrate resonance using the sensor. when i try it, it reads the sensor but when actually starting the test the i get an error that says my mcu has shut down. any suggestions?

[@luiseteav]

Thanks for your stl's!!!

[@georgedunn7573]

I have done the input shaping with the sensor. I see inside the printer.cfg that that section is commented out. Does that need to be changed or leave it alone?

[@fylith6378]

I did this and all seemed well but now all my prints have excessive amounts of stringing. I mean I did the temp tower test and every temp had so much stringing it was hard to see through it. Before this I printed of some prints with just a tiny bit of stringing. No other changes were made but running the measuring resonance on the sonic pad. Any advice?

[@JakeThomasFSU]

What do you do if the sonic pad does not find your sensor? Tried everything down to re-flashing the firmware on the sonic pad and printer. Other than getting a new sensor I am out of ideas.

[@neillpapenfus9349]

Hi, can I use a normal USB to USB-C cable to connect the Sonic pad?

[@Oscar8108]

Could you share the cura settings for testing before and after (Speed and Walls)?

[@bencoleman8217]

There seems to be some conjecture about turning off acceleration in the slicer. If I’m not mistaken, you found your maximum acceleration (as did I) to be 7500 and you set it in printer cfg at 7000. With acceleration turned off in the slicer, running at 7000 Beats the heck out of your machine doesn’t it? I could be wrong but it seems to me to be analogous to throwing a brick on the gas pedal with no regard for the road ahead. The slicer has the map and knows about the hairpin turn ahead while klipper is blind and standing on the pedal. Thoughts? Thanks

[@normanziegelmeyer7693]

Where can I obtain the test model? Thanks

[@RickyImpey]

This is the ringing tower www.klipper3d.org/prints/ringing_tower.stl I've added it to the description too. You don't need to print this for Input Shaping with the Sonic Pad but I understand if you want to see the difference.

[@rmgrimshaw23]

A quick question... I have an S1 with the upgraded Sprite. When I do the initial setup should I just select the S1 Pro, as my device?

[@rillsleather]

Would having linear rails alter anything? I have an 'upgraded' ender 3 V2 with linear rails on both x and Y. I ran the tests, but I'm still getting pretty bad ringing and ghosting.

[@RickyImpey]

In theory, linear rails will help to accurately transfer stepper motor movement by providing less resistance and play. The input shaper tune should account for any difference between setups so you 'shouldn't' be having any issues with a modified setup.

[@davidmann4436]

Have Sonic Pad and a Creality CR-10 V2, with a BLT. The Sonic Pad has a profile for the CR-10 V2 but without the BLT, so the setup will fail as it wants the Z stop to be in place, which it isn't. How can I get the BLT information into the printer cfg gcode so that the sonic pad will complete the setup for the CR-10 V2 with BLT ???

[@haloohooloo635]

Mine didn't restart after finishing the process. Still have ghosting

[@xray12275]

Anyone know how to connect the bracket on a stock Creality ender 3 NEO max? I can't seem to find it anywhere.

[@jstev67]

Great series. Thanks for all the help. I have followed your steps and after the sensor is done it says it will save. When I select OK, it cycles and then displays an error message. I am using an Elegoo Neptune 3 PRO. Any idea why this keeps happening. I will check the printer.cfg file for the input_shaper code and see if it actually is there. Thanks for the help.

[@RickyImpey]

What error message do you see?

[@andykokes5690]

Is there some way I can see that my printer actually did something with it's settings after running this test? All of my accelerations look the same as they were before, and the input shaping section in the klipper settings is largely gibberish to me. Here's what it says on my ender 6 : [printer] kinematics: corexy max_velocity: 500 max_accel: 5000 max_z_velocity: 10 max_z_accel: 1000 square_corner_velocity: 5.0 [input_shaper] #shaper_type_x = ei #shaper_freq_x = 110.4 #shaper_type_y = mzv #shaper_freq_y = 87.0

[@Black3ternity]

Great video and as always - impeccable timing! I have my sonic pad and basically follow along. I needed to upgrade the cooling on my Ender 3 S1 Pro after getting the Sonic Pad. Even at 100% Fan speed I was only getting warped and drooping overhangs on the benchy and the backside of prints looked really awful. So I re-did my Input Shaping after installing the custom parts cooler. One question regarding belt tension: How do we know "when it's good"? Is there something we can "measure"? I don't have any slippages but I am not sure when it's too tight. I just don't want to leave anything on the table in terms of performance or quality just because I can't properly tension the belt.

[@RickyImpey]

It's a really difficult thing to explain of show in a video as it's a feel thing. If in doubt, leave it a little looser rather than tighter. Too tight would give you more problems generally. I will give some thought to a way to describe the best belt tension in a video.

[@RickyImpey]

Also, yes, the part cooling is the limit with the S1 Pro, what did you upgrade to? I'm looking for a good option.

[@RickyImpey]

@@Black3ternity Thanks for the info, I'll check it out. I have a mod board from Nathan Builds Robots that I want to try out, this could be the one to use it on👍

[@Black3ternity]

@@RickyImpey oh would appreciate feedback on that. Had my eye on it. If you go down the Rabbithole of Ender 3 S1 Pro with Sonic Pad I would love a series of "upgrades to make the S1 Pro awesome". Stuff like the modboard, cooling solutions and maybe even the linear rail upgrades to see what it improves (if any). Found so much content online for the Ender 3 and v2 but barely any stuff for the S1 Pro. Cheers and thanks for all the great stuff.

[@dodox5795]

I think TeachingTech did a video on linear rails compared to v-rollers and found no difference at all. Just looks cooler :D

[@slicedpage]

I plan to attach the input shaping sensor to the fan housing due to the extruder I use. It will be in the right position but what I am worried about is, with the hotend fan being on all the time will this affect the sensors' results?

[@slicedpage]

I was going to delete this post but thought I cannot be the only one to wonder about the hotend fan's influence. I have just realised that it is part of the test because if it was turned off to do the calibration then the results obtained would only be valid if the fan was always off. Which of course it is not.

[@Al-fe3ln]

Don't you have to uncomment the lines under [input_shaper] for them to take affect?

[@RickyImpey]

Hi, no you don't. If you look further down in the 'Save Config' section, there is another input shaper section which has #*# before it. Klipper reads this and uses this information. I should have explained this in the video but what I showed can be confusing, sorry.

[@gillan82]

@@RickyImpey Yes, this would be nice to have it in video. I'm glad there is a comment at least, that's fine. What is best way to increase speed then? Is it enough to just increase "Print speed" in a slicer to e.g. 150mm/s and Sonic Pad resolves it?

[@RickyImpey]

@@gillan82 Yes, in a way. What you would ideally do is find out the maximum acceleration that your setup can handle and then set this limit on the Sonic Pad. Then you can up the print speed without really worrying about acceleration going too high. All to come in another video soon.

[@AlexandrosTzortzopoulos]

@@RickyImpey thank you for this answer. I was wondering the exact same thing

[@imacmill]

I installed 'Vanilla Debian' (SonicPad-Debian on Git) on my Sonic Pad, thinking it would be the way to go for full Klipper support/control/configuration. But Klipper doesn't have (that I'm aware of) the simple, two-click input shaping support that the Sonic Pad firmware does. I'm thinking now I should go back to Creality's intended firmware for the Sonic Pad. Thoughts, anyone?

[@K8Stuff]

Maybe I am missing something but the bracket shown here doesn't look like the file you've uploaded ?

[@RickyImpey]

There are 2 brackets on the Cults3d and Thingiverse links. Which one were you looking for?

[@PabloDuránMillán]

once i have followed that process, is there anything i need to do at the end to take advantage of the new settings? like do i increase the speed or something? or is it just that klipper automatically changes the acceration?

[@andykokes5690]

Came here to ask the same thing - maybe someone will answer if enough of us ask...

[@dadgood9729]

Excellent video series thanks. One question, do you need to re-do the Input Shaping/ Resonance Compensation after a Firmware update? Seems like I have to redo the bed leveling after an update.

[@RickyImpey]

You shouldn't have to as all of the information is in the printer config file. The best thing to do is download your printer.cfg file before any updates so that, if it gets overwritten, you can copy your config back in.

[@Naranek]

Great video, thank you. The only thing I'm not sure about is... is this a one time test, or does the Pad read values during printing also? So does the sensor needs to stay on the head or can it be removed after the calibration is done?

[@monolith1337]

I appreciate your question as a month old, however, if you read the manual for the sonic pad, it states that you do not need to leave the sensor attached after calibration is complete

[@leobultje9117]

where can I find the STL file for the bracket?

[@leobultje9117]

Sorry found it😂😅

[@tszulborski]

I'm trying to do a resonance test on my ender 5 pro. Unfortunately, I get the message: "Can't update MCU mcu config as it is shutdown".

[@blackcatfpv3247]

same issues, have u fix it?

[@craigfisk9645]

I tried it but the sonicpad doesn't restart after finishing

[@LexxDesign3D]

Craig boiiiiii

[@DarkSideUser]

Ricky, your vids on the sonic are a godsend, thank you! One problem I'm having on the resonance test- 5-plus here with an Microswiss NG direct drive. I started with the xy bracket (found one online that fits on the fan screws, though I have to let the front fan dangle as I couldn't find longer screws but I don't think that matters here). Test started, didn't let me choose a printer type just autoselected and took me to start test. It only did 1 test, never gave a prompt to move it to the bed bracket?

[@andykokes5690]

If you're using a core XY printer, like an ender 5 or ender 6, you don't need to move the sensor. The point of the test is to measure how your printer moves and yours likely doesn't move the bed front to back. If you already had the printer entered it just used that setting and knew you didn't need to move the sensor. Log into the web version of the Sonic Pad software and you can see the commands sent and received by the sonic pad. I have an ender 6 that did the same thing - just started the test without asking. I could tell from the console commands that it tested both x and y.

[@richysrc2158]

Hi , do you leave this cable permanently attachment after you've calibration?

[@RickyImpey]

No, you can remove it as soon as the calibration is complete

[@richysrc2158]

@Ricky Impey thank you sir 👌

[@Thommy2810]

Hmmm … my Print is worse after tuning Input Shading with the Sensor (Ender 3 S1 Plus). Massive stringing and the Print Looks like a massive overextrusion. Is there a simple way to undo the calibration? Some Lines in the Printer config? Or is the only way to reset the Sonic Pad to Factory Settings?

[@RickyImpey]

Yes, you should just be able to go into the config file and edit the input shaper section. If you zero the X and Y frequency figures then it effectively removes input shaping.

[@Thommy2810]

@@RickyImpey Hi Ricky! Thx so much! :-)

[@noldaems760]

Hi Ricky, Which glassbed do you use for your ender 3 s1 pro?

[@rubenverster250]

Standard Carborondum bed from Creality. They are pretty decent :)

[@billhaley8873]

After disabling CURA controlled acceleration my CURA projected times dropped dramatically but the real print time was over double the projected time. I did a test and Cura projected time was 33 minutes but actual with Cura acceleration off the actual print time was 75 minutes. Then I printed the same model with the only change being enabling Cura acceleration control and the projected time went up to 41 minutes and the actual went down to 53 minutes. The quality of the prints was the same, so I am not sure what is going on. Is there a way to tell if the Klipper settings are saved?

[@RickyImpey]

It sounds like your accelration settings in klipper are limiting your speed. What is your max acceleration?

[@billhaley8873]

@@RickyImpey On my Sonic Pad under Movement Parameters it is set to : Acceleration - 5000 Accel to Decel - 2500 Velocity - 500 Square Corner Velocity - 5

[@RickyImpey]

@@billhaley8873 That's pretty standard with the Sonic pad. Expand all of the acceleration settings in Cura and see what the settings are for each area of the print. It's strange as the slicer settings should never let the printer move faster than the firmware limits.

[@bradclark2922]

My sonic pad is causing really bad, stair step, layer shifting on a CR-M4. It prints fine without the pad. Any idea why the sonic pad would cause this?

[@alystral7817]

exactly the issue im having just got a ender 3 v3 se doing calibrations now assuming its something to do with needing to tune klipper to your printer more carefully maybe...

[@robsmith9375]

I recently decided to retune my input shaper settings by rerunning the procedure from the Sonic Pad. I completed both parts, I have an Ender 3 3d, and upon completion I pressed next to complete. The Sonic Pad did not save the new settings and restart . I was watching ,via the Fluid console, and it showed the new values and said to save and restart. I tried that and it went through the motions but it did not modify the Input_shaper settings in the printer.cfg file. As a matter of fact the settings were commented out. Is this normal?

[@robsmith9375]

Upon further review, the settings are being stored in the printer.cfg file below the "do not edit below line" . I'm learning.

[@emac800]

I just got my Sonic Pad yesterday, and ran the test this morning. I updated the Sonic pad to the latest version before doing the test. It restarted after the update. After running the test, I was not asked to restart the Sonic Pad. Here’s hoping it saved the data.

[@goblinrio]

@@emac800same for myself, I never get the restart, the test ends and I just go back, did it save or not? What was your experience 2 months on?

[@emac800]

@goblinrio Everything seems to be working just fine. It’s taken a bit of tinkering in the beginning, but it’s been trouble free ever since. I’m on a few Sonic Pad FB pages, and I see people having all sorts of issues with their Sonic Pads. I’m not sure what they’re doing differently from me, but I’ve been thoroughly enjoying my experience and results. I think some people may be overthinking things, or trying to tinker beyond their scope of ability. I’ve found keeping things simple with the Sonic Pad is the best way to ensure success with it.

[@MikeMerzke]

I get an "Can not update MCU {0} config as it is shutdown" error every time I try and start the test after it verifies the sensor.

[@jstev67]

did this get resolved? I keep getting the same thing

[@CharleneHazelton]

I am too.

[@CharleneHazelton]

I managed to get my test to start by unplugging any camera, usb stick and turning off printer and sonic pad. Then I plugged in the sensor, connected to my extruder, then turned on printer and sonic pad.

[@jstev67]

@Chat_Rickylmpey I am using an Elegoo Neptune 3 pro. The sonic pad goes through everything and then tells me I was successful and says it will restart but I get an Error message Internal error on command:REMOVE_ MCU_RPI_CONFIG Any idea what I need to do. I can not find any info online.

[@andybarrett5948]

I had this. I think for me it might have been caused by starting a preheat and then starting the resonance test. If I restart the printer and the pad and don't do a preheat then it seems OK (I was preheating in an attempt to keep the sensor attached to the bed mount).

[@connorhinen1045]

So I have a ender 3 neo…. So basically anything creality has made since is not compatible, does anyone have a solution? I don’t know how to attach?

[@hs6127]

Hi -- Did you ever get this sorted out? I just printed the bracket. After quite a bit of head scratching, it appears that the bracket mounts with the largest surface facing up. The smaller surface below, mounts to the same holes as the probe. You would need to remount the probe with longer screws. The slotted area at the back clamps to the back plate of hot end carrier. I am debating if it is worth it to use this bracket. I'm might try double sided tape and see how that works.

[@jessopjessopjessop860]

Hmmm...mine doesn't seem to save, it just says system ok.

[@mgroene]

Same thing with me after the Y test has been completed and I press the button, it just goes back to the test screen for picking your printer. I don't get the same screen as shown in the video

[@mgroene]

So I don't know if the data has been saved or not since no reboot was done.

[@RyushoYosei]

...I manually bought a Rasberry PI, set up klipper, and then hbought a input shaping sensor for my CR6 SE, ...now that this is out..I'm really considering getting this, so I can swap my CR-6 to it, ..Connect it for my Ender 3 Pro so it can have klipper as well since I don't want to fight it too hard, since this seems easier, and..well, ...Then I can use th Rasberry Pi to make a REtro Pi

[@RickyImpey]

I bought 3 Raspberry Pi 3 Bs a few months ago, intending to run a few of my machines on Klipper. They are still in the box as the Sonic Pad is an easy solution for me.

[@BasemBrimo]

This didn't work for me so far. I'm getting an error message "Can not update MCU mcu configure as it shutdown" Any one had this before?

[@MADARASOLOVEICHIK]

Gracias bro😊

[@DennisMurphey]

well a friend and I went the cheaper route, Pi, 7 inch screen, OctoPrint and Klipper. And yes it all works BUT when it comes these advanced tunings we are really at a disadvantage. You have routines programmed to run the test collect the data and update the Config file. We have none of that, I have to buy a sensor and wire it into something then gather the data and transfer it into the config file. What a mess. I watched this video and you were so calm and even printed the bed holder. I am so Jealous. So when a different friend with 2 Creality Bed slingers asked about my experience with Klipper I sent him the Sonic Pad link and your install videos. He agreed and ordered the Sonic Pad. When it comes he can go thru your vides to set up then this series to super tune them. I wonder if anything here would be useful for my kludge Klipper install. Like the sensor holder on the bed, maybe a sender part number. Anything else we can cross over on??? Great Video Series. Dennis

[@kennung1001]

Hm, why so complicated? I just fixed the sensor with a double-sided tape. Everything incl. calibration was done in about 10 minutes. The printing result is significantly better now.

[@kennung1001]

@Chat_Rickylmpey never ever

[@KaanKASIM]

Actually keeping the slicer acceleration settings on and then fine adjusting the speeds is a better approach in my opinion. Because you'll still get ringing depending on how high an acceleration you choose. Klipper docs even mention that you should choose an acceleration setting where ringing is minimal, and not completely gone. In my case with my s1 I start to get ringing above 1500 and I have my max set as 3500. So I print my external walls at 1500 and and max for everything else. Even at 3500 ringing is quite acceptable but at 1500 I have no ringing and my print times are barely affected. I learned this approach from Ellis from Ellis' Print Guide. They have their max accelaration at something ridicilous but their wall acceleration was set at 2 or 3000 with a Voron.

[@RickyImpey]

Ok, interesting🤔 My personal experience is that leaving klipper to handle all accelerations reduces variables and makes fine tuning much simpler. I'm happy to be proven wrong if it gives a better result though. And yes, reducing the acceleration for walls makes a lot of sense.

[@9z4clb]

Since this is a temporary one off test/calibration thing, why was this not done at the factory on units such as the SE and KE? Seems stupid that the consumer needs to buy this accessory and print and attach brackets to do this.

[@jessopjessopjessop860]

It works on a per printer basis - as there are literally 1000's it would be tough to do all

[@roofoofighter]

Belt tension, roller tightness, frame bolts, etc. will affect resonance frequencies. The machine comes partly disassembled for shipping. That’s why you’re supposed to properly tighten and tension those before the test.

[@plugger410]

Anyone else not having their cable recognized by the sonic pad?

[@kilogee700]

If you’ve tried restarting your sonic pad then it’s probably a faulty cable so I’d contact your seller

[@timm3802]

I have done the input shaping with the sensor. And it totally messed up my printer settings. After inputshaping, it stops extruding before a corner, and retract all the time....looks ugly. I have done it twice now, with new S1 Pro printer profiles, and everytime it mess up the printer settings. So this trick is not for every printer.... That or Creality made a fuck-up again 😁

[@timm3802]

This is a config file without input shaping manually made: [input_shaper] shaper_type_x = 3hump_ei shaper_freq_x = 78.2 shaper_type_y = mzv shaper_freq_y = 38.2 And this is a config file with input shaping manually made: #shaper_type_x = 3hump_ei #shaper_freq_x = 78.2 #shaper_type_y = mzv #shaper_freq_y = 38.2 Theres definitely something wrong here! It should be reversed on the two profiles.

[@jamessawyer6891]

The minimalist isn’t free anymore

[@Hix-Design]

Why in the name of all sweary did they make the cable; So fecking stiff So damn short Terminated in what looks like a PS2 connector I'm going to have to try and tear this apare and use some low diameter flexible cable to use. Sometimes Creality just really miss the mark.