Tuning Pressure Advance Has Never Been Easier (OrcaSlicer Calibration)

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Klipper Pressure Advance Documentation (With console commands):
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Pressure Advance (or Linear Advance in Marlin) is an important part of the tuning process to get the best possible print quality. This is something I have been doing in Klipper for a couple of years and is a fairly simple process. Thanks to new calibration tools it is easier than ever before. In this video I go over the traditional Klipper method as well as my favorite method using Elli's pattern in OrcaSlicer.
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[@DenatBalla]

THANK YOUUU SOOO F**KING MUCH! Your videos have made my Voron V0.2 come to life 3 months after i built it. I could never seem to tune it correctly as a novice and stopped working on it for a while. I'm 4 or 5 videos in and it's finally alive and kicking!

[@FluxCharlie]

Thank you for putting this video together. This really helps someone like me understand a little of the results I'm seeing without going down a rabbit hole.

[@ModBotArmy]

Awesome I am glad to hear that. Thanks for the feedback 👍

[@Radtke_Makes]

Thanks!

[@ModBotArmy]

I appreciate the support :)

[@D3MI.755]

Great video, provided deeper insight into calibration. I regret I discover you channel after 2 years of 3D printing

[@kiiiddd]

Klippain has the best Pressure Advance Test I have used and it uses very little filament too

[@J-dk3bv]

Same here! And it is standalone useable.

[@802Garage]

Thanks for the tip!

[@ModBotArmy]

Hoping to cover the Klippain addon module soon.

[@tasa4904]

As a sidenote (2:10), make sure that, under the cooling section and if the setting exist, the minimum layer time is set to like 1 or 2 seconds. I had mine set to 20s and the slicer took it to heart and made it so that I could never exceed 25 mm/s at the fastest. One additional recommendation is to set bottom layers to 1 and uncheck "Alternate Extra Wall" to reduce the filament used and potentially halve the print time. If your cube isn't sticking to the plate, (2:15) then your Z-Offset may need tuning. But, in a pinch, you can use a shorter "First Layer Height" like the usual 0.2mm or 0.1 to mash it into the plate. Having one layer not be 0.3mm isn't going to affect the quality of your results. Granted, I'm using Cura but the first should apply across other slicers and the second might apply.

[@Hagantic]

To add to this, make sure whatever printer you use (i have a X1C) you set your print speed to speed you intend to print at. If you run a PA test at 200mm/s but the model prints at 50mm/s you should run the PA at 50mm/s for best results. So definitely make sure your layer time doesn't affect your print speed too much.

[@tasa4904]

@@Hagantic I hadn't thought about this. I wonder if this is why the corners were blobbing. Basically I ran the test at 100mm/s but I normally print outer perimeters at 33mm/s.

[@joku900]

@@tasa4904 I tried printing with 60 mm/s and 150 mm/s (probably closer to 130 mm/s in reality) and optimal height was 18.3 mm for 150 mm/s and 25 mm for 60 mm/s. So quite bit of a difference! No other option were changed. Material was 3DJake ecoPLA, printer Ender 3 S1, temperature 205 C and 0.4 mm nozzle.

[@reverendbell2747]

These calibration videos are fantastic. My newly-built voron 2.4 thanks you!

[@DJ-Hollandica]

Intresting have nice days daniel thanks for the lessons

[@Sensible343]

I struggled a bit at first because I needed to update the firmware, but now everything is working exactly as described. Thank you.

[@billverine765]

Awesome and informative content my friend. The tip of creating a different filament profile in Orca slicer to hold each PA setting is so freaking helpful. Thanks for sharing with us.

[@christopherplant6186]

Thanks for showing how to do this, much appreciated. It was far less intimidating than I first thought

[@Barkley1835]

Tried pressure advanced before but it was in the firmware level and had so many finicky steps and if I ever want to go back I always needed to reflash my machine and recalibrate everything. I am already using OrcaSlicer for months now and I will be doing this calibration for my machine, it's so much easier having it in software level. Just do the calibration test, choose what's best and set it. Nice informational video!

[@universe8607]

thank you, you make it look easy

[@KhanGirey]

I set my PA higher than what looks best via the pattern method. I was testing Polymaker PLA Pro, and a PA of .02 still gave me a rough looking top surface with the edges being much more ridged than the inner portion. I upped my PA to .04, and that all went away, and I still wasn't experiencing the "gapping" at the sides that would be expected.

[@Festivejelly]

Very well explained. I personally prefer the new pattern in Orca Slicer I think its a bit more precise as its a bit easier to fine tune and quicker too.

[@ciaduck]

I've been using PrusaSlicer, but the built in test options in OrcaSlicer are really awesome. I can't wait to try them out, since I have an old Wanhao i3 Plus that requires more tinkering than most printers.

[@s0lohans]

Excellent. Excellent.. EXCELLENT!!! Thanks so much! I had so many doubts and questions regarding pressure advance, like do I set it up in klipper printer.cfg or Orca, which number/value was better, etc and this video cleared it all up. Even which test is better / faster to run. Thanks again!

[@AronsTube]

I exclusively use the Ellis PA Pattern and it's always been really good for me and is not a long print at all. Been using the version that was added in Orca Slicer. Once I calibrate PA I tune EM (Flow) using Ellis Cubes as well.

[@sanketss84]

super thanks for making this.

[@terryclair2914]

Awesome info, Thank you!

[@colinfielder6695]

Great info Daniel!

[@ModBotArmy]

Thank you!!

[@christopherlyons7613]

Great video, thanks. Question. When running the PA Pattern option should you just leave whatever your filament profile already has set for PA parameters. If PA is enabled and has a current value specified, do you just leave those as is and run the test?

[@beingabdaal950]

Is there another way to do it? Eg. Cura? And entry level printers eg. Anet a8

[@alexey_sychev]

PA value can be significantly different for different combinations of speed and acceleration, so it is not enough to just set speed to 100 mm/s as advised. PA must be tested at exact speed AND acceleration for outer walls you going to be printing after

[@ModBotArmy]

For the cube tower I went off of the official Klipper documentation. For OrcaSlicer it auto sets to your profile acceleration and speeds so it should be much closer or match. I will admit I don’t do a 1:1 between my PA testing settings and what I end up running mostly. Typically I still get really good results but doing what your saying of matching it speed and acceleration wise for the profile you plan on running is a great recommendation and will yield the closest to perfect results.

[@alexey_sychev]

@@ModBotArmy I think official klipper documentation was written at the times when 100 mm/s was insanely fast, we are already in a bit different reality where even consumer printers capable of printing 300+ mm/s and 10K acceleration easily ;)

[@annholcomb732]

Can you explain how to use the PA tower in the thumbnail after it's printed? The pattern gives a number to input, but I don't understand how the tower works. For instance, my tower looked best at 34.20mm and Orca's g-code informed Klipper to set my PA from .000 - .0100 with 0.002 steps throughout the process (can see in the console..."pressure_advance: 0.006000 pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.040000, etc.). Thanks!

[@fastfood122]

How u made ocra slicer dark mode ?

[@PixelForgeLab]

Hi, question: when you tweak the PA in Orca, do you still have the PA value active and enabled on config file in klipper ? that's confusing

[@DanielQuites]

Hi Modbot, how are you? Is there an optimal calibration sequence? I tend to do the temp tower first, then pressure advance followed by flow rate. What do you recommend?

[@maxkool007]

What im doing is the pattern, then from that number i do a line and see if its a bit tighter. The pattern is great but its lacking the next decimal point so maybe you could get that sharper corner with .034 or similar instead of .3 or the gap of .4 Cause the corner on .4 looks even better but the gap opens up....

[@Liberty4Ever]

Interesting that your first calibration resulted in a pressure advance of .025 and the second was .020 and the default for my Neptune 4 Pro is .022. I print mostly TPU of different durometers and TPU is very different from the other filament types. I've mostly compensated by printing very slowly, but I really do need to do a proper calibration of pressure advance and retraction, but the OrcaSlicer retraction test crashed my printer.

[@nathan1sixteen]

If make sure that, if you’re doing the line or pattern test, you have a level bed and you have the correct nozzle offset. If you don’t, it will give you bad results

[@ricardordz7538]

i tried to use the pattern method butOrca slcier always shows an error saying vector too long no matter if i reset the slicer :(

[@drfailbucket]

what should be tuned first? PA or FLOW? would be intresting to see if it makes any difference if PA tuned first or FLOW tuned first

[@ModBotArmy]

Ideally I would get flow dialed in first. At the very least calibrate your esteps but yeah too high flow will increase the rounded corners which could slightly skew your PA results.

[@adams1625]

Thank you! My pa pattern test had rounded corners no matter the values. Going to try lowering flow@@ModBotArmy

[@knightsljx]

Any linear/pressure advance video needs to start with the caveat, NOT all printers allow you to change the setting depending on how the manufacturer changed the firmware

[@TreyHam27]

You can always change it in orca ???

[@leomorris1773]

​@@TreyHam27 Not necessarily. Creality had an issue where their 4.2.x Ender 3 boards could not do linear advance (Marlin's name for pressure advance) due to the way the stepper drivers were wired on the board. The latest versions of Marlin 2.1 have fixed this issue though but as far as I'm aware there is no official download from Creality and you need to compile your own (not too hard)

[@yeroca]

How can the orcaslicer patterns work when klipper ignores M900 codes? I tried out the pattern with klipper, and there were no differences between any of the corners, and I got a lot of errors saying unknown command M900.

[@yeroca]

My bad. Turns out I had orcaslicer still set to Marlin gcode.

[@Yeta00metal]

Question. What if my printer goes really bad at 100mm/s speed? I did the test but I got a really bad cube at all. Can I use a recommender lower speed? thanks mate! ( i have an ender 3 upgraded with 4.2.7 board )

[@radicalreel]

@ModBotArmy I have a question regarding PA since I first used it. Maybe you or someone else can answer it. So bambu and orca do the PA calibration and then do the extrusion multiplier calibration. Is the PA independent from the EM? Or if I wanted to do it more precise, would I have to recalibrate PA after EM-calibration. The difference would most likely be very very small... but I'm curious if there is impact at all

[@MikeSchlueter]

I'm trying the Orca Slicer PA Pattern but it stops with error: "Extrude only move too long (-239.176mm vs 100.000mm) See the 'max_extrude_only_distance' config option for details"

[@Cheese_with_knees]

Do you think you can make a video on how to replace the cable ribbon that connects to the screen

[@FuckYouYourLibtardOpinion]

Just pull it out

[@offearth3d]

About to try this on a certain printer!

[@ModBotArmy]

👀🔥😊

[@3sotErik]

Love it!

[@wrxsubaru02]

Yeah, but what about smooth time, and why doesn't orcaslicer have that setting option in there?

[@Kibz32]

Is orca slicer the top dog of today? I use s3d, cura, and prusa.

[@ModBotArmy]

Honestly it all comes down to personal preference. I really like it and feel like it checks the most boxes for me but I do still dabble with others as well.

[@clutchboi4038]

ok so the orca slicer test destroyed my build plate for some reason. started digging into the plate omfg.

[@FranciscoAngelini]

my its in bar of middle 0.03 and 0.04 is 0.035 ?

[@MarkFraserWeather]

Do the pressure advance settings in the slicer override any pressure advance settings you have in Klipper?

[@ModBotArmy]

Yes they do 😊

[@mustafataha717]

but what about if we increase the speed in Klipper by 200% ? I found that I need to lower the pa value by almost half to get the same results how to automate this process ?

[@oldman1944]

This is what I want to know too. PA value changes with speed. There is a macro on Reddit but it seems it might be CPU hungry.

[@Sttreg]

I am so confused. If zou set the PA per filament, then it wont be machine specific? Because im pretty sure my v0 and my v2 dont have the same values of pa

[@ModBotArmy]

Yeah that’s right each printer will have a different PA value for the same filament so you would need to tune it per printer. You may want to name your filament to start with your printer name if that’s the case so you can easily sort through them.

[@radicalreel]

​​@@ModBotArmy yes unfortunately this ends in a calibration nightmare depending on how many printers and filaments you have... we really need something like Bambus "lidar" but cheap and for klipper. This would be the next big step into the right direction for the 3d printing community

[@stoinercraft6389]

what's the difference between pressure advance and linear advance? they look like the same thing

[@SentientTeapot2444]

They use different math. To skip the control theory, LA is more unstable because it might tell your printer to do things it's not physically capable of doing.

[@stoinercraft6389]

Thanks! it makes more sense now.

[@ThomasS17]

Also, linear advance is what's used in Marlin firmware, while Klipper uses pressure advance.

[@k-dougplayz3202]

Why after tuning esteps on my ender 3 v2 neo that runs klipper with the sonic pad, my prints look like they are under extruded?

[@802Garage]

Did you calibrate running through the nozzle or in free air?

[@k-dougplayz3202]

Free air, I can’t get it to print right. I have to increase the flow on my Sonic pad

[@k-dougplayz3202]

@@802Garage I took off the bowden tube and calibrated it that way. Is that the wrong way

[@802Garage]

@@k-dougplayz3202 It's not "wrong" but it may lead to under extrusion depending on your filament, temperature, and other factors. I'd try calibrating E-steps again going through the nozzle with the filament and temperature you use most frequently and see if you get different results.

[@k-dougplayz3202]

I calibrated it through the nozzle at a higher temperature and it looks fine. I have to retune PA now

[@zakaroonetwork777]

Glue on bed for testing?

[@FuckYouYourLibtardOpinion]

Depending on the material and plate type but for most beginner friendly filaments and pei bed yes

[@scottyboy6269]

@6:38 both are still pooched badly and when he measured with calipers he didn't pick the janky corner...I hate PA so much, it also changes depending on speed it seems

[@timonharmel4866]

is there any option to tune it on a stock creatly firmware i have the printer Ender 5 plus

[@matehello0219]

If i use 0.6 nozzle now, which layer high should i use?

[@medienmond]

Your X- and Y-surfaces are looking terrible. Please check your idlers and pulleys for imbalances and validate that your belts have the right tension.

[@MrLittleman777]

Hi. Just a personal comment. I really like your videos, very informative and detailed, and I’ve learned a lot. But could you please change your delivery? What I mean is, that sing song way you talk in your videos. Very annoying. Up and down. Other than that, super good vids. Been following you for a long time. Please keep up the good work. Thanks.

[@ModBotArmy]

It’s tricky. It’s not intentional and I am always trying to make the videos better. I talk a million miles an hour normally so it’s been a long process to even get to where I am at now. I appreciate the feedback.

[@MrLittleman777]

@ . Thanks for your response. Talking in front of people, or on video is tough. Sometimes, unless someone else says something, you’re unaware of idiosyncrasies, ie, a nervous tik, smiling like a lunatic, etc. Some feedback and constructive criticism can be helpful. Hopefully I didn’t hurt your feelings. But I do appreciate your videos. You’re a smart young man, and I always learn something. There was another presenter on KZbin that had a terrible habit of throwing his arms around when trying to make a point. He looked like he was having an episode of some kind. After I asked if he could work on that, said his wife was constantly yelling at him about it. He literally would lunge at the camera when speaking. It was rather startling to see. Again, excellent subject matter, but terrible execution. lol. Again, I thank you for your time and information. Please don’t stop your videos, as they are appreciated.

[@esteemedenergy]

Forget this, I will just use a sander.

[@nerellavenkatapathidattatr9005]

Hello sir I am working on making custom 3d printer, by combaining the Voron Trident z-axis and Voron legacy Core XY. I need little assistence from you. Please provide your mailId. Your content is fantastic

[@sciencesaves]

Or buy a bambu lab a1 and all of this is included and needs no work out of the box

[@Gona21]

give me 1k dollars and would buy a bambulab tho

[@sciencesaves]

@@Gona21 you can buy one for $300 …

[@Gona21]

@@sciencesaves lmao bro, hope to get those prices here in Argentina, literally an A1s Mini costs at least 900 usd + fees

[@sciencesaves]

@@Gona21 thanks for the head$ up. Mine just came in last week and I don’t really need it. Maybe I’ll ship it out to a lucky Argentinian that has an extra $1000 👍

[@Gona21]

@@sciencesaves literally the ones who buy bambulab printers to re-sell here are making good money, no doubt

[@Deltazor]

Thank you!