Two beginner table saw mistakes to avoid

[@rustygriffin3656]

From a 30 year professional woodworker who used table saws everyday of his career with no injuries and never a kickback. I do not want to ever discourage the use of push sticks when needed. But, the cutting from 1:20 to 3:00 minutes is not a push stick cut. Very little control over that piece of wood with that procedure. Plenty of room there for one hand close to the fence with your two outside fingers locked over the rip fence lip if you can, and one stick gentle assisting at the top end after the cut to help keep the top end of the wood against the fence. Use a sharp stick in the saw kerf for this. Watch that you don't put that stick into the blade. Never push on the piece outside the blade with hand or stick. This could cause blade pinch. Don't worry about the cut off piece, it will be fine. Always push any piece between the fence and blade all the way past the blade.

[@A.rothriguez]

Rusty griffin absolutely agree.

[@ClawDogVending]

Agree 💯

[@fabianvanderelst9643]

Wow, how does one achieve never having kickback? :O I learnt working with a table saw at my work, a hardware store, and I've had some kickbacks. I never had an accident tho, and I immediately realised my mistakes as it happened. But still, no kickbacks is very impressive imo!

[@supportteam6808]

He has a trainee using a table saw WITH NO RIVING KNIFe...NO BLADE GUARD...this man is endangering that poor fool!!!!!! AND NO SAFETY GLASSES!!! CALL THE COPS...CALL THE KZbin SAFETY POLICE!!!!

[@marlonestrella8105]

You could even use a push block like a gripper if you want to be safe. I wouldn’t be putting my hand anywhere near that blade without a riving knife tho, I don’t give a flying fk what expert level you are or how long you had experience with no accidents…..

[@korielnuesse2859]

As a novice woodworker who is just in the learning stage of operating my own power tools, this type of information is invaluable. Cheers Matthias, for helping me keep my fingers and organs where they already are. I was committing one of these errors (push stick too far from blade/too close to fence) and had been running into problems, which was discouraging to say the least. This video seems timed perfectly for my needs. I already enjoyed your channel a lot, and I like the way you make any project or technique as approachable as possible, for those of us who are beginners. I look forward to all your videos, and appreciate all the work you do, and experience that you’re sharing.

[@markjohnson3799]

I wish I'd seen this before I used my table saw for the 1st time yesterday. First rip of some plywood and it did indeed catch, cut a nice circular cut (your explanation has made sense of what happened) and then threw it into my stomach. Luckily it hit full edge on (not the corner)beneath my ribs, it winded me, hurt like hell and left a beautiful double red line of abrasion with purple bruising above and below ( I'm now calling it the Makita kiss). I was lucky. I have now fitted the riving knife and am learning from the experience of you guys . Thank you.

[@trevorrori4683]

Mark Johnson where dude you get that table saw from??? That’s scary as hell

[@agustincampanelli7706]

Did you buy the table saw without knowing how to use it, or what are the most common mistakes to avoid? This is the most dangerous tool in a workshop, it needs to be more respected

[@RadoHudran]

Hehe and I did a miter guage and rip fence combo on my first time, luckily I just cur a small 2x5 cm piece and nothing happened. Later I thought "Hell, let's watch some safety tips vids" And now I've seen at least 30, slowly getting ready to make some safe cuts. First on the list was a bigger stop button: done 2nd was a custom push block, done too. Next I want to build a riving knife(my saw has nothing), zero clearance insert and a cross cut sled Once those things are made I'll start using the table saw for real

[@peterbako395]

Tips like this are great! I'm still new to the woodworking game, so watching something like this shows me what not to do (pushing near the fence) vs. what to do (two passes on thick stock). I'd love to see more like this, for all sorts of woodworking tools!!!

[@dpeagles]

I always like your videos. You get to the point without a bunch of rambling. Most youtube videos go on for 15 minutes to say what should take 30 seconds. So annoying.

[@seigeengine]

I always like your videos. You're concise; other's annoyingly aren't.*

[@dpeagles]

Aren't you clever. Pfft

[@Smalltime]

seigeengine lol!

[@dpeagles]

Must be nerd humor.

[@DvirLevy]

I think most KZbin videos are working on ads and sponsers so they need the long videos to fit more money making BS

[@JohnWaclawski]

Thanks, Matthias. The one thing I took away from your video that was helpful was the 2-cut pass for thicker wood. I'm pretty new coming back to woodworking and that tip is going in my "toolbox". Thanks again!

[@donaldp9259]

No riving knife? Removing pieces with hands while blade still turning? ooohhhhhhh.....gave me chills up/down my spine just watching. **I just watched the video again after more than a year after this initial comment....it still makes my ass pucker.

[@AlesZvolanek]

if you'd follow all the recommended safety instructions in the workshop your worktime will extend like 5 times (if you're fast :))

[@philipripper1522]

@@AlesZvolanek oh look a dangerous idiot on the internet

[@chrisadmaley]

@@AlesZvolanek putting in a riving knife takes literally 10 seconds probably

[@cerberus0413]

@@chrisadmaley That is not something you can just "put in" if it wasn't designed for it.

[@chrisadmaley]

@@cerberus0413 There are plenty of options for at least a splitter to be installed on older saws that dont have a riving knife. They are typically pretty easy to install as well.

[@rackjabbit1]

These tips were very useful. We all could use a refresher course now and then. The second example, which seems so common, cost a friend as the wood flew back, rather than a sore belly, it instantly dragged his hand across the spinning blade. Needles to say after 40 years I have tremendous respect and attention when using power tools. Thanks again and as always you do a good show!

[@37yearsofanythingisenough39]

After teaching shop for 37 years I can only tell you that using that style of push stick is an accident waiting to happen. It does nothing to prevent the workpiece from rising up off of the saw table as you push the workpiece through the blade. Get a piece of plywood, masonite, even scrap pegboard, and cut out a push block that has a heel or grip at the very end. 1/4" grab of the stock is usually adequate by this heel. The vast majority of the panel lies then on edge on top of the workpiece holding the workpiece down to the saw table. Next drill out a series of connected holes with a forstner or multispur bit far enough up and at a comfortable angle to grip with the fingers of your right hand (if you are right handed or left if left handed). Contour the top surface of the pusher to form a comfortable grip area usually swooping down to the area resting on top of the workpiece or stock. In use angle the pusher slightly towards the fence and down towards the table. PUSH THE WORKPIECE COMPLETELY THROUGH AND SLIGHTLY PAST THE TRAILING EDGE OF THE BLADE. Your free hand is available to shut the saw off at the completion of the cut. Keep the pusher on the stock UNTIL THE BLADE STOPS ROTATING or let it fall on the floor if you do not have some sort of table extension. During the cut do not push sideways on the off cut. It will just lay harmlessly on the saw table. The piece that will kickback and get you is the one trapped between the blade and the fence, but it won't if you hold it down and push it past the upcoming blade teeth at the end of the cut with the pusher you just cut out. After you use such a pusher you will throw all your notched sticks away. It was my experience that if you carefully explain the physics of this to students and what can happen, demonstrate several rips slowly, have them each try a rip cut while you supervise and the rest of the class watches, you will never have an accident. Believe it or not. Nowadays I heard you also have to tell them to shut their cell phones off while they are using the saw!! Good thing I'm gone or I'd be gone.

[@MrTarfu]

I am sure glad I didn't have to attend your class, I would hate to pick up such bad advice.

[@waywardartist]

WOW!! Great tips! I am in the infant stage of setting up my first wood shop...with NO previous experience or know-how whatsoever! I have already run into the first 'mistake' already cutting rough cut cedar boards for a fence I built. For the life of me, I couldnt figure out why my brand new 12" Milwaukee circular saw was refusing to cut all the way through a 6"x1" board on many of them! And there I was cussing out Milwaukee brand when all along it was because of exactly what you explained in this wonderful video....too much free overhang causing the board to pinch the blade.. NOW I KNOW! THANK YOU SO MUCH for sharing your knowledge and tips!!

[@prestonvaughn6633]

This guy is killing me with anxiety ... the amount of times he reaches over the blade

[@rav3nx33]

Yeah me too, 3 mistakes would be better, and two hands on the circular saw next time you want to demonstrate that, it's going to hurt when it goes through your gut. What he was trying to demonstrate was good, but remember when you are trying to teach, not displaying other terrible habits is an important skill.

[@wilsonandlucy]

I'm new to the table saw world and it even looked unsafe to me. Also, those push sticks look a little janky--no?

[@c0mputer]

Joshua Cronin It won’t go THROUGH your gut. But I agree with everything else you said.

[@rav3nx33]

@@c0mputer Well that would depend on how deep the blades set and how skinny you are 🤪

[@daveg4236]

RCB no. I use all the time

[@rickwalker8259]

Thank you for these tips. I've never known what causes burning on the table saw. I always follow a tip from a friend who said he pushes with his right hand without a push stick on larger pieces, but places his last two fingers over the fence so his hand doesn't slip into the blade. Thus creating exactly the angular force that causes the burning.

[@wjackstl]

this entire video made me anxious I never touch the off-cut, whether it's on the chop saw, table saw, band saw or circular saw or whatever saw. I have also made a habit to never touch the off-cut until the blade has stopped...and even then, I use the piece I just cut to slide the off-cut away from the blade, and then pick it up

[@willjdeanie]

Bit over the top. It's not radioactive.

[@BlackSugar419]

Yea but practicing this discipline is what keeps you safe.. Be overly cautious always.

[@gmdille]

Pretty much the only time I have no problem grabbing the offcut is on a horizontal band saw

[@Flies_the_limit]

If you grab the back end of the cut off mid cut your chest hair grows faster than ball sag

[@koolkid1234ism]

@@willjdeanie its just something that will cut your finger off in a blink of an eye

[@Remaggib]

Learning from mistakes is, for me, one of the best ways to learn. It sticks much better if it's a mistake, because you don't want to make that mistake yourself. Great video, as always!

[@jerrysimeone]

Those are the coolest invisible glasses I ever seen. He asked what he was doing wrong.

[@ignilc]

i dont get it

[@timothydalton90]

Also the coolest invisible riving knife

[@garrettchun8776]

I don't see it.

[@rubenclark8017]

You must have some special glasses yourself, that let you see invisible stuff.😉

[@marlonestrella8105]

@@Genericchanneluser that’s not true. The only scenario a table does not use a riving knife is the smaller blades such as the dado stack blades. Even if that was a smaller blade which is a 10 inch blade, you still have the option to use riving knife or at least the blade guard which is standard for all saws

[@shawnr771]

Thanks, you showed what causes some basic cutting problems and how to avoid them for those of us new to table saws. You did a good job explaining why those things happen and how to avoid them as a beginner.

[@_P0tat07_]

I really cringed when you did the demo with the circ Saw. The other thing that made me cringe was when Paul was cutting the square board and he used the push stick to apply sideways force behind the blade, pinching it with the piece that was being cut off. Is here any danger to this? I would assume so if it’s still putting pressure on the back of the blade.

[@timthomas9105]

I just think that it's funny, you are showing about table saw safety. And the push sticks are chewed up. I caved in and bought a new band saw. But I am planning on making your wood lathe. Thank you for all of your videos and letting us into your shop and the process you go through to make something. When I was young and in Electronics, I had lots of people ask me if they could watch how I troubleshoot. Now I'm back into woodworking and getting tips from people half or a third my age. What a reversal.

[@ealrovi1972]

WTF!!! Great tutorial but I suffered every moment with your laboratory rat making such dangerous cuts...

[@supportteam6808]

He has a trainee using a table saw WITH NO RIVING KNIFe...NO BLADE GUARD...this man is endangering that poor fool!!!!!! AND NO SAFETY GLASSES!!! CALL THE COPS...CALL THE KZbin SAFETY POLICE!!!!

[@LeoRivera5168060037]

Make the same mistakes all time and I could really figure out what I had been doing wrong. Thank you so much for posting this video. It really made a lot of sense to me. Now I've gotta get to my garage and practice your advice!

[@andycorb]

I am very new to using a table saw, but even I spotted the lack of a riving knife is very dangerous. No need to not have one installed for this kind of cut. This combined with pushing the offcut side made me concerned even for the 'correct' way to do it.

[@VeshtaYoshida]

If you have the time/inclination, making a short series with tips and explanations such as these would be awesome. Knowing more of the things an experienced woodworker (or mad'ish scientist in your case) no longer thinks about could be pure gold for wannabe's such as myself.

[@frenchriversprings]

No riving knife and your friend was cutting without glasses. Dude!!!

[@billybobjoe198]

I've never had a riving knife or safety glasses. Half of the problem was being scared of the saw. That sheet of plywood he was cutting should have just been fed through by hand. You have far more control and strength with your hand. When ever possible, you should be using your hand. Really only things less than 3 or 4 inches need to be run through with push sticks. If you have something small you can normally flip it over to finish the cut without ever having to use a push stick or get anywhere near the blade.

[@koolkid1234ism]

@@billybobjoe198 i can't tell if you're being facetious...

[@philipripper1522]

@@tachedegraisse1303 If you can call them without all your fingers.

[@bifurcated]

@@tachedegraisse1303 my man, just shut the hell up if this is the best you have to contribute. not wearing safety glasses is a universally agreed upon mistake, and to ignore it, in a safety video of all things, merits mention. I'm exhausted of people like you who think that caution or concern is a sign of weakness, you're literally holding all of us back.

[@bifurcated]

@@tachedegraisse1303 historically, my problem has only ever been with people on KZbin making money from "safety videos" who do things explicitly wrong. I think it's genuinely unethical to profit from being a teacher while failing to teach that very thing, especially when doing so could lead to injury in ones students. I guess I also don't like when people say explicitly wrong things that reduce safety to try to seem like they're right rather than just admitting it's more dangerous and that they accept that risk, but that's not what happened in this case. I'll be honest, I think if you start to think about it as these people being paid teachers, which many of them de facto are, it's easier to see why people criticize their safety decisions. Commenters aren't usually trying to put down regular folks at home who do things how they want, they're holding teachers to the highest of standards just like we should everywhere.

[@Elitekona]

I have the same Rockwell/Beaver table saw as this but without the right side extension. It was my grandfathers(also from Ontario) old table saw. It seems to suffer from some of the same problems as yours did. I am excited to, thanks to your insight, trouble shoot the problem and look for that extension.

[@deadtoejimmy]

Here's another one for you that I just did an hour ago. I thought I was bogging down the saw when in actuality my thigh was barely pressing the off switch. :)

[@Its3am]

I've been using table saws for years in a hobbiest fashion. And I've been making these mistakes for years!!!! Great vid. Subscribed!

[@anthonyhitchings1051]

Do not reach over the saw blade

[@djlemma]

This type of video is extremely useful. I hope you can think of more 'beginner mistake' topics and make more videos about them. There's so much about the use of power tools that one doesn't necessarily learn just by reading the instructions that came with the tool, or just from helping buddies with their projects.

[@TechGorilla1987]

Those thin wood coupons you cut off that log section are so immensely satisfying to hear tap together. Dead tree carcass porn!

[@markbonham3477]

Nice job explaining these problem areas as I have taken people to the ER to get fingers re-attached due to improper use of table saw and the kickback that follows. This one guy was cutting plastic which tore his hand up and then as his work area was closed in due to more stupidity he bounced back into the table saw and one hand hit the blade.

[@NoirBeard]

Is there a good "I just bought a table saw, and I don't know what I'm doing" video or video series anyone can recommend?

[@jmakes3745]

Steve Ramsey has a basics series where he explains to beginners how to use a table saw/ the different cuts you can make with it etc.. which you might find useful :)

[@scottsommers6969]

LOL i like your ambition adam there are 100s of videos on youtube just be aware of what youre doing and you shouldnt lose many fingers

[@DIEDELDEIDU]

I recommend to take a weekend class at a local Woodcraft shop. I did help me a lot to get started safely and smart. You gain a lot from the Q&A between the newbies and the teacher. Way more than a video could ever provide.

[@robk.5467]

Adam Fairbrother practice with plywood. It's stable with no surprises in it. Gain competence with that before moving on to actual wood. John Heisz, Matthias, Steve Ramsey vids are very helpful. If you type in your saw make and model in youtube search, you will most likely find multiple reviews to watch your saw in action and learn its limitations. Fall in love with your table saw. It is the most versatile tool you will ever own!!!

[@jeremyspecce]

Also check out Jimmy Diresta's "DiResta Jimmy Tips 10" video. But, yes, if you have an opportunity to take a hands-on class, jump on it.

[@Baky6]

Always when I watch your video remind me of the days when I learned the carpenter's craft. You are like a twin to my professor of practical teaching and technical drawing. The only difference is that you look more peaceful in nature. My professor hated when we made mistakes. Especially on machines. You could have seen the steam on his ears

[@jasonb4350]

I wouldn’t recommend using push sticks with that large panel.

[@tubalcain1]

Totally agree Jason...... Sometimes push sticks are just in the way and are not necessary... especially cutting panels like that. I ONLY use push sticks when cutting thin strips.

[@HBSuccess]

Was going to say the same thing - at least not with that type of push stick. Matthias uses them as arm/hand extensions and does very well - but for a new student - for panels greater than 8-9" wide (so your hands are safely away from the blad) a pushstick of any kind is probably not needed... and for panel cuts in general inc. narrow rips - I like the type of "stick" that gives you 8-12" of contact on the face of the work, while allowing you to push down and over at the same time. There's a bunch of them all over KZbin, but more of the "Jay Bates", "Mark Susack" and "HFFCom - OCTOSTICK" type of push stick.

[@felixokeefe]

Personally I use a sacrificial piece of junk wood and push exactly perpendicular to the blade. That way the piece I'm cutting doesn't want to tilt towards the blade at all.

[@tannerbeverley26]

To each, his own my friends. If no harm is done, why not?

[@dasstackenblochen9250]

Personally, I stop using push sticks when the cut is wider than, say, 12-14 cm (about the width of my hand flat down; this should be around 5 thumb widths aka inches). In doing so I'll typically have at least ~4 cm clearance to the blade. You want more clearance for deeper cuts, perhaps twice the cut depth is a good idea. I completely spread my hand, that way I can't accidentally extend a finger when something happens.

[@TVCanT]

Thanks for publishing this. In the old days people were taught how to use machines before they were let loose on them. These days all the safety trolls are cringing at your lack of guards because they are afraid of all sorts of things they shouldn't be if they knew how to use the equipment properly and were trained on the warning signs and how to handle them. You don't need a sawstop to be safe. There are plenty of activities either around machines or sports which are very dangerous for the uninformed, untrained, and unskilled.

[@jackmcslay]

You know when someone is good at something when they fail to do it wrong on purpose

[@KMills]

Jack Mcslay I love when matthias makes videos about possible shop mistakes/hazards but he just can't bring himself to demonstrate them

[@jaredshaffer3901]

It's like when someone is learning to drive a stickshift and they make the car buck like crazy, I have tried to demonstrate that to someone before but I'll be damned if it isn't actually really hard to do once you know how to drive a manual transmission.

[@k1ckcyph3r16]

He is kinda "just let's assume that I'm actually doing this wrong"

[@evertchin]

yea... he subconsciously tried to optimize the cutting speed.

[@sosteve9113]

Nicely done

[@mikegrier2829]

Just bought my first table saw, so I’m trying to watch videos regarding safety. The part about a panel twisting towards the blade from the fence side was new to me. Light bulb moment. I intend to use a gripper push block and certainly the riving knife, but I think this still applies. Thanks.

[@alexkalibur]

Why don't you use a splitter (=a single blade) behind your saw blade, to avoid risk of kickback ? In France (and I guess in the whole EU), this is mandatory on a table saw, and I know these rules are not so strict on your side of the ocean. (as well as having a table saw with two parallel blades, which I can find very useful, but is strictly forbidden for example in France).

[@SillyOmega]

alexkalibur I was curios about that to. My cabinet teacher said never remove the splitter. It prevents kick back. Because he hold a story of kick back puncturing a shed in a shop he worked in.

[@SillyOmega]

Sorry told us a story.

[@jaysondudley4176]

I gave up using my circular saw because it kept biting me, and was supporting the wood on both sides of the cut. "lower on the offcut side" - yep, makes sense now! Thanks as always Matthias.

[@SaturdayProjects]

Matthias, I'll make a simple appeal for you to talk to someone who has trained woodworkers / carpenters and how to best do so for beginners if you're going to bring newbies into your shop. Honestly, and I say this with a sigh of relief, from what I watched, you're really lucky Paul didn't hurt himself.

[@steventhehistorian]

Yeah, it would have been wise to make Paul wear safety glasses...

[@mikkelhong1002]

It would have been better if you weren’t cutting a panel using the fence. That is kickback city right there!

[@mrkoolio8494]

Saturday Projects i

[@adamkirschbaum6992]

More of these types of tips covering multiple tools (drill press, band saw, belt sander, etc.) would be fantastic! Speaking for myself, my only exposure and ability to learn about woodworking is from you and other makers on KZbin.

[@madebysteve1738]

in #2 the push sticks are the problem as well as the force applied to the board

[@dlwatib]

The pushsticks aren't the problem. It's where the pushstick is pushing that is torquing the board away from the fence and into the blade. The exact same torquing would occur if he used his hands in the same places.

[@madebysteve1738]

that size of wood can never be safely controlled with a 3/4" piece of wood, at best no push stick should bee used or if the person doesnt feel confident of their control they should use maybe a grout pad or their hands or not at all, and his hands are wider than 3/4" so that is not a fair comparison more fingers have been lost in the name of safety, dont overthink it

[@cosprint]

Great instruction. Finally explains in detail what can go wrong and why. I have a radial arm saw and I`m waiting for someone to show a safe way of ripping. Most people are to afraid of them. But I know there has to be a safe way of using them I have an old Delta Rockwell. It cuts so smooth with the proper blade, but I still have to try ripping.

[@davidgoodwin8232]

teaching safety with no guards or riving knife.... amazing

[@Fufiout]

Just used my first saw with those today other ridgid was so old it had neither

[@kookyflukes9749]

I like this channel because of the physical explaination as to what is going on. Makes it all obvious and that is a good thing. Some good tips Mathius. Thanks for posting.

[@kwong4658]

A table saw without a splitter or riving knife in front of saw blade is deadly! A good saw should have one.

[@supportteam6808]

He has a trainee using a table saw WITH NO RIVING KNIFe...NO BLADE GUARD...this man is endangering that poor fool!!!!!! AND NO SAFETY GLASSES!!! CALL THE COPS...CALL THE KZbin SAFETY POLICE!!!!

[@LG-ro5le]

@@supportteam6808 why did you literally recycle another comment 🤦‍♂️

[@natechucks]

Fantastic and educational video. Please make more of these when you notice other weird mistakes when using shop tools like band saws and drill presses. I think we could all learn a lot!

[@double_plaidnum]

I was half hoping the mistakes would have been in black and white, like an infomercial. Thanks for the vid.

[@BillGatliff]

The "black and white" of it is simply to never, ever let the blade bind against the workpiece. Such binding is a risk whenever the work isn't constrained to travel EXACTLY parallel with the blade. So long as your fence is parallel with the blade and you keep the work well-supported and up against the fence during the cut, there's no kickback because the trailing-edge blade can't grab onto anything.

[@surfinturfer]

Been burning wood for years -- and you fixed it. THANK YOU !!

[@Craxler]

I may not be the most experienced guy, but i noticed that your friend pushed the offcut after it was past through the blade towards the fence to hold that side firmly, which is what i think might have caused the burning

[@Remmes]

Yup, was pinching the blade.

[@a0flj0]

See, that's where I think a riving knife would have helped. Pushing the offcut towards the fence at a point _past_ the riving knife would have pulled it away from the blade. Only slightly so, but enough to avoid kickback from the blade getting caught in the offcut while it's not yet completely loose.

[@audiotechlabs4650]

VALUABLE info on table saw use. Safety is #1 when using power tools and you nailed it on this video! Thank you Matt! Thankz

[@forestlampcraft472]

COOL You know when someone is good at something when they fail to do it wrong on purpose

[@ericstaib8035]

Just want to say thanks for the explanation of the first mistake. I am a newbie and I've been locking up my handheld circular saw, and now I know it's because I don't support the scrap piece! Thanks so much.

[@FizzlNet]

1:00 that is terrifying just to watch. I'm afraid of skillsaws :)

[@FizzlNet]

I use one every now and then when I have to, when doing repairs in my house. But it is definitely my least favorite tool I own :)

[@Vsor]

Your fear is justified. It's the 5th most dangerous construction tool (under chainsaw, table saw, nail gun and snowblower). In long cuts people try to curve them back onto a line and it kicks. Matthias was not standing behind it so he was relatively safe.

[@michaellundgren6949]

I prefer to clamp a straight edge on long cuts, such as on plywood. Free handing a circular saw is tricky.

[@africancichlids3011]

they are dangerous period.

[@simonhopkins3867]

I'm glad I only need one maybe twice a year tops. So I just get the handsaw out!!

[@manc39]

This kind of thing is really, really useful to those of us just starting out. Especially with table saws and how dangerous they can be to the uninitiated.

[@Traderjoe]

Matthias, which do you feel is safer, a table saw or a bandsaw. Cutting the same material where there’s no advantage to using either, of course.. just curious

[@matthiaswandel]

bandsaw is usually safer

[@tomruth9487]

Bandsaws are safer because they don't kickback like a table saw will. Having said that, they both have very sharp, fast moving teeth.

[@lloydgreen1432]

No comparison, Band saw way safer by far.

[@PDX53]

Excellent tutorial. On Sept 4th I was using a compound sliding mitre box in an attempt to rip about 4" into a 24" 2x4. The blade bound up and flew forward, cutting off the tip of my left thumb. I've used table saws & power miter boxes numerous times but the sliding box was new. I don't have a table saw and if I'd locked the sliding mechanism I wouldn't have been injured. Four stitches, 5 hrs in ER & lost 50cc of blood. Although the x-rays don't show it later analysis of the blood showed tiny particles of bone so I was extremely lucky. Things are healing fine & in another year it'll look almost normal. Maybe my lesson could be demonstrated to help someone else avoid the same thing.

[@jakewitte1788]

Doesn't a riving knife help keep the wood going straight away from the blade so that it can't turn back around and cause severe kickback? Just curious, why don't you use a riving knife?

[@howycwap]

some saws have a riving knife and others have a splitter. Splitters are extremely annoying to use as if you do not make a full depth cut you need to remove the splitter completely. So dado cuts, shallow cuts, crosscut sleds, any sled really will be a no go for splitter. Riving knives however are helpful in avoiding kickback, but Mathias is experienced enough to be able to avoid it

[@jmakes3745]

Think he said at some point that because he uses older saws they won't accept a riving knife

[@jakewitte1788]

Oh that makes sense.

[@superdau]

A riving knife will help in many cases, but it doesn't mean you can push whereever you want. The riving knife usually isn't that rigid that it prevents wood pushing sideways against the blade. Kickback is rare (but possible) with a riving knife, but you can definitely get rough or burnt cuts even with one.

[@MAGAMAN]

"experienced enough to be able to avoid it" A lot of people in emergency rooms thought they were "experienced enough to avoid it".

[@fermitupoupon1754]

@Pandasty it's called a riving knife in English. But even here in Europe handheld saws don't have one, and on most table saws it's easy to remove. The robland saw I use at work for crosscutting has its riving knife removed. The rip cut machine does have it though. But it's hard to compare US and EU market table saws. As far as table saws and their use can be different it's pretty much opposite land. The blade tilts the other way, short vs long fence, cutoff side is on the other side of the blade, common vs uncommon sliding tables, short vs long arbor. The list goes on. For similar machines they are remarkably different.

[@stevehewson8903]

Forgive me, as I'm a novice.... But are you saying that here in England you place the shortest piece on the right [Next to the fence] and the largest area on the left?.....If it's a stupid question please say so!!....

[@fermitupoupon1754]

When working with a sliding table, yes. The slide supports the workpiece, and the workpiece is clamped to the slide. That way the workpiece is secured through the entire cut. The cut off is indeed on the side of the fence, which doesn't extend beyond the cutting edge of the blade. This leaves the cutoff free to move away from the blade as it passes the riving knife. But then again, not every saw is comparable to a Robland NZ3200. Though my Bosch PTS10 works in the same way and that's a pretty basic machine as far as tablesaws go. The workpiece is clamped to the table, which is on the left side of the blade, the short fence is to the right of the blade on the cutoff side. You may want to have a look at Marius Hornberger's channel. He uses a continental european table saw, bit larger than the one I have in my shop at home, but considerably smaller than the ones I use at work. I'm looking to get a used Robland combination machine for my shop at home, though that means digging up the yard again, in order to put in 3-phase power to the shop. Ofcourse if your saw does not have a sliding table, you should keep your biggest piece on the largest part of the table. For stability and support. Though for me, not in the UK but on the continent, I have never used a table saw that didn't have a sliding table, bar the one my grandfather in Canada used to have. But in 20 years of woodworking, it's been all sliding tables for me.

[@stevehewson8903]

Thank you for answering....

[@chuckb6860]

Using a push stick on such a wide piece of wood is dangerous. Personally I don't use a push stick on any wider than 1 1/2". Still have all my fingers after 29 yrs

[@Fufiout]

Thats the result of respecting the saw and never becoming complacent.

[@joshthomas7999]

I agree.

[@whiskeylung]

Very informative as usual. You seem to do the content that others don't know enough to comment on.

[@GSMSfromFV]

02:47 . . . . If you're lucky! . . . . . (Gulp!)

[@jumpfok]

Indeed. Check this video. This guy demonstrates a kick back and his fingers almost hitting the blade: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2jWg6V5Z6-jppY

[@DavidtheSwarfer]

I have never had a problem with a tables saw, but was nearly hit by a piece of oak javelined across the workshop by a 2.5HP spindlemoulder. The oak actually made a ding in the brick n plaster wall beside me. (my boss was operating the moulder!)

[@Beakerzor]

jumpfok yikes - good example, don't get cut trying to show how not to get cut!!!

[@carolinamarques5808]

Good video, with good information. But I'm wondering where's the riving knife? I always hear this is one of the first and most important safety tools precisely to avoid kickback.

[@carloantoniomartinelli5418]

This is all very well Mr Wandel but, for the life of me, especially since you - with your beckground - ought to know better, WHY OH WHY, you STILL persist in this benighted, almost unibversal North American BAD HABIT of not using the splitter ? All your convoluted, fancy footwork at the tablesaw and you ignore what is effectively a FUNDAMENTAL and ELEMENTARY safety device. I wonder...

[@dougimmel]

splitter same as riving knife? Yes. Lack of it is killing me.

[@jamesf3805]

Great video! You should do a series on the basics of tool use. Great job of explaining the why's and how's of the problem

[@scottmartin7717]

How about the guy explaining kickback while simultaneously not having a riving knife for his newbie buddy.

[@chrisadmaley]

ya i just commented this crazy he wouldn't even have a riving knife in for him or even himself

[@JT-91]

have to throw them in the deep end lol

[@cerberus0413]

Not every saw has one, you should learn proper technique with working with power tools instead of relying on extra addons. Seems to me he still has all his fingers, so he is doing quite well.

[@JT-91]

@@cerberus0413 proper technique doesnt not eliminate kickback. It only lessens it. A riving knife or splitter does not eliminate kickback it only lessens the chance. Both are best practice.

[@martinmackett2758]

@@cerberus0413 What third world country are you living in, as far as I am aware they have to be fitted by law!!!

[@BuildiTDIYIsrael]

thanks. this is very good info for beginners, as well as crappy-saw owners... even though I have some limited experience, I still have not fully figured out what is the best way to use push-sticks in every situation. this video helped me, thank you for it!

[@MP-ou7lb]

Matthias, I really appreciate your creative ideas and great Videos. But NOT using a RIVING KNIFE (especially after proving with this video you fully understood the dangers) is simply just stupid. And let a beginner work on a machine without a riving knife is grossly negligent. It is painful to watch and I was expecting an accident every second. We are not talking about "safety fanatism", but about the absolute basic workshop rules. Be a good role model for over a million of viewers and install a riving knife! In the country your dad was born (Germany), commercially using a table saw without a riving knife is FORBIDDEN since many decades. For a good reason...

[@matthiaswandel]

see linked article. I guess commenters not being so smart is easy enough to understand!

[@ElectraFlarefire]

I think that he's just saying that it should have been mentioned in the video, rather than buried away halfway down the page in a linked article that we all assumed was the same tips done in text format.

[@jeremyspecce]

I agree but it is also VERY common in the US (or Canada, I'm guessing) for any table saw older than 5 years old to NOT have a riving knife, so, as good as they are, they are the exception rather than the rule in the vast majority of cases in the North America, so a large majority of viewers will not have a riving knife to rely on, which makes these tips relevant.

[@brocktechnology]

The riving knife is not a choice, either your saw has one or it does not. If you're like Matthias, you live in North America, and you have a propensity for recycling, your saw is going to continue to NOT have a riving knife for decades to come.

[@daveb8598]

So.... what did beginners use before riving knives? My first table saw was a skillsaw plunge cut through a piece of plywood, screwed on and thrown on top a trash can, pretty sure they don't make riving knives for those ;) Also... I still have all my fingers.

[@gregfeneis609]

Part of the finesse in this situ, small piece being cut relative to large piece between the blade and the fence, comes from realizing when you're pushing the wood through the saw, the main sources of friction you're pushing against are coming from the saw resisting you near one edge of the work, and the fence rubbing on the work and resisting you at the opposite edge of the work. With the larger resistance of the two coming from the saw. Pushing from a single point that's too close to either edge will invite the work to jamb, which essentially adds unnecessary friction and slows the cut down. In the case in the video, the saw was the strongest source of resistance, so pushing with a single pusher stick somewhere in the left 1/3 of the work gives enough push to the saw edge to overcome it's stronger resistance, while not being so far off to the saw's edge so as to completely neglect the friction coming from fence rub (insert resolution of multiple force vectors explanation here). Regarding use of the push stick, If you watch the professor, he's so practiced at using the sticks, it's just natural to use them, and therefore not a bother or encumbrance. With bother or encumbrance out of the way, the benefit of his precious digits being inches away from the blade is easily seen.

[@Retroweld]

Nicely done! 👍

[@gflinch]

One of the best videos yet, not because of what was made (nothing here) but that you went over some safety. It would be nice to see a safe practices video. To many time WE don't read the manual or have enough experience to be doing something completely wrong and have the potential to ruin the piece or ruin ourselves. Thanks

[@YouTubestopsharingmyrealname]

Good stuff sir.

[@Mrdavis6985]

Thank you for these tips. As a noob to the world of table saws, this put some of the issues I’ve been having into perspective.

[@andreqeen2417]

I'm so sure that you can make it too guys. Just look for wood prix.

[@connermonier8669]

Coool!

[@connermonier8669]

@Vald Хаmin Glad you do

[@chantejcoodqy66]

Awesome. Thank you for your comment

[@ozrenbalic6051]

You have explained how to avoid wood pinching the blade when using a handheld circular saw, but what could he have done differently to avoid it on a table saw?

[@dannyradjkoemar580]

Thankyou for this helpful video.

[@vitruvian6878]

The use of the push stick on the outer edge opposite the fence also invites pinching the blade and burning the wood. What makes those situations so dangerous, and not just amongst rank amateurs, is the back force, the sound, and the smell tempt the instinct to loosen one's grip or release the work piece. That's when the cascade of trouble truly begins.

[@drewt3210]

Long push sticks like those freak me out. Seems (& I could be wrong here) that the wood has sooo much mechanical advantage over them. I prefer push blocks where I'm pushing down onto the wood, instead of pushing into the wood from far away. I typically make mine from scrap 3/8" plywood so it'll even fit between blade & fence for thin cuts. @HoneyOnWales

[@Robert.E.Edmondson]

I agree. I do the same. A push block of the type you describe can be cut out in a jiffy on the band saw.

[@lloydgreen1432]

Drew is dead on, those wimpy sticks are not a good idea,

[@DRCE777]

Thank you for demonstrating this safety vid, really appreciate it. EDIT: 4:03 NO RIVING KNIFE???

[@jeremiah3543]

It's like our I.T. Department broke in and started messing with our tools.

[@Warkive]

As an IT guy who enjoys woodworking I feel compelled to argue but statistically speaking, you're not wrong.

[@heyimamaker]

Regarding the panels on the table saw. I would have used my hand since it's well over a foot away from the blade. If your pushing into the fence ( which you can't do with the push sticks ) you are much safer. I also like to do deeper cuts in 2 passes because you can see if the wood is also going to close up on the blade or not.

[@user-ig7nq7pc7k]

Featherboard, featherboard, featherboard! One on the table saw and one on the fence. Heck, I built an extended high fence and mounted a double deep Rockler featherboard on the fence and now I can do dados and panels and NEVER have to worry about it kicking back - combined with a splitter in the back. It's common sense safety!

[@Kangsteri]

Good tips. I have seen piece of plywood flying 3 meters behind the saw and through the wall.. Its good to also always check that you dont have anything hanging above the blade when you cut (hair or clothes etc).

[@justinsk1]

Safety glasses !

[@paulreader1777]

Generally I am an admirer of Matthias and certainly in awe of his engineering, design and construction expertise. I must however agree with the comments about utilising a riving knife when not using the sled. Also, although I agree with Matthias about the pinching being caused by the small table saw sled this could have been anticipated and eliminated given the length of the waste particularly. His website link goes a little further into it. Next, at the end of the successful rip cut Paul is actually correctly using the push stick so that pressure is applied both towards the blade and against the fence. However by applying pressure with the left hand push stick beyond the blade he is risking causing pinching of the waste against the blade. This potentially exacerbates the lack of a riving knife and while less problematic than the turning problem previously described is undesirable. Finally Although the saw has been turned off the blade is actually still rotating when paul reaches across to lift the ripped piece from the table.

[@mmccullough3951]

What your doing wrong Paul is not wearing safety glasses. Seriously ?

[@johnchampion7819]

I'm surprised that you do not have a riving knife fitted. the lack of which is one of the most common causes of pinching and kickback. I've cut mine down so that it is just a couple of mill beneath the blade; it still does its job and also allows cuts to be made partially through the timber.

[@matthiaswandel]

cause the saw doesn't take one.

[@johnchampion7819]

I did not realise that table saws have been made without a riving knife, I'd have thought it was an industry standard. You live and learn. Many thanks for a prompt reply, I am a fan by the way!

[@Beakerzor]

I like how with your level of experience it's hard to even simulate failing. The handheld circular saw was a good visual example of pinching. I didn't even know that was possible on a table saw.

[@konzetsu6068]

Another good thing to remember is exactly why you have pushsticks, they are a tool so you can work closer to the blade with less risk of injury, don't be afraid to nick them a little if it allows for a controlled cut. You can see Paul being very careful not to damage your pretty, sacrifical pushsticks.

[@dscritter614]

Great video. My table saw would occasionally stop my forward progress n the middle of the cut. Since this has happened twice, and I know u don't ignore these things, I just knew I'd find a KZbin vid about it, and here it is. Yep, a binding blade on a possibly warped piece of wood. I know what 2 watch out 4 now.

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

My first table saw arrives today so thanks for this, very useful! With the thin cut you're doing at 3:00 my instinct would have been to do the cut so that the thin piece of wood was next to the fence, why would doing it like that fail ?

[@kingcrab5217]

thank you Paul for taking two for the team.

[@robk.5467]

My table saw has a 3/4 horse motor on it. I find when cutting hardwood I get the best results keeping my feed hand in the same orientation from start of cut to finish. Smoother delivery, and I know exactly where my hand is going to be in relation to the blade. Any pauses create burning, so why pause if you dont have to?

[@mostlyH20]

I bought my first my table saw 12 Months ago. I made my first push sticks 13 months ago. Now i just learned why im burning wood. Thanks Matthias.

[@MorseB]

Thanks man! This was realy helpful. I never thought of the leverage issue. It's not really a problem I have because I use a gripper but it will be something to think about in the future! Now you should do one for drilling, and specifically, why my countersink always looks like a pentagram.

[@woodawambam4899]

Bearing going or gone bad in your drill press and the countersink bit is probably a 5 tooth and just grabbing and pulling as it bores into the wood.

[@magnificentcharter1586]

countersink it first, then drill. pentagram never forms

[@bartholomule]

This is helpful. Thanks. Would router rounding burns near corners be the same thing?

[@joeemenaker]

Woulda been nice to see a variety of solutions to the "twisting" problem in the panel cuts (eg. riving knife, featherboards, power feed (angled slightly into the rip fence)).

[@spy2778]

Worth pointing out that a lot of Rip fences can be far off square, which means the gap between the blade & fence (from front to back) can be different. Not only does this make inaccurate cuts, but could also cause dangerous kickback!

[@MRrwmac]

Matthias, Your friend was lucky to have you there to stop him from doing the wrong thing and help him learn the safe way. I can't even imagine how many new TS users have hurt themselves!

[@itsvondell]

I don't even use a table saw regularly and I'm still glad I watched this!

[@johnmacgillivray1701]

I haven’t been in the shop in a couple of years now but during the entire 7 years I was building cabinets and furniture, I might’ve used a push stick maybe 5-6 times and never received an injury, (other than a few good hits from kickback or splinters in rougher pieces of work) but Im quite lucky I guess. the official rule of thumb is you should use a push stick if the piece is 12” wide or shorter, but I personally always hated push sticks. I found them more dangerous as there’s a much much greater chance of a smaller work piece slipping in my opinion, plus I preferred having a feel of the work piece, if I felt like it was moving in a strange way I’d just lean in and hit the power off with my thigh. I often would make 2” cuts using my thumb and index finger with my middle finger on the fence as my guide to keep my hand from slipping. As long as my fingers cleared the throat plate I felt safe. Anyone new to carpentry or cabinetmaking don’t do as I did though, I know a couple people who were as confident as me and they don’t have all their digits left.