One of the worst feelings in the world is when you back off a wave only to spin around and see 2 or 3 coming behind it even bigger than the one you’d paddled for, only now you’re too far in to make it outside so you scramble and scratch as you see everyone well ahead of you just barely making it over the lip.
@b4ssfunk3d4 жыл бұрын
I hate that feeling and when the huge sets start breaking right in front of you with a huge white wash so there is no way to duck dive you just get tumbled in the impact zone
@didoview3 жыл бұрын
Man you nailed it.
@juufro89523 жыл бұрын
Yup that is the worst feeling. Nothing can help me and I know I'm gonna get drilled.
@ottergreen81903 жыл бұрын
@@juufro8952 literally one of those ah, shit moments where you just hang on your board preparing for a beat down waiting for the last possible second to dig for the bottom.
@kiffjeff2 жыл бұрын
I have Anxiety now thanks.
@kaisommers35885 жыл бұрын
( A surfer would understand) when you see a massive set and you don't know if you should paddle towards it or paddle away
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Kai Sommers thanks for the comment
@thomasengsall44845 жыл бұрын
Kai Sommers sometimes I hold onto my board for dear life and let it hit me
@kaisommers35885 жыл бұрын
@@thomasengsall4484 same that happened to me in OC MD last week. I pull out of wave and behind it was massive wave and it broke eight on my head and sent me straight to the bottom with my board
@eman52805 жыл бұрын
Thomas Engsall you know your board is a ticket to the surface.
@kaisommers35885 жыл бұрын
@@eman5280 yea I agree just sometimes the waves so strong it'll yank it away and then you find yourself climbing up your leash
@gkonstantouros5 жыл бұрын
I had an even worse experience in Mainland Mexico. Consistent 15-20 feet at a rocky left point. No one on the beach was willing to paddle out, except one guy who made it out. That got me fired up to paddle out and I somehow dogged all the clean up sets that were swinging wide. The other guy was about 20 feet in front of me, when a mid sized wave came thru. I didn't think he could catch it, so I started to paddle for it. Unfortunately, he barely was able to get in and I had to pull out, only to see a wave 200 yards outside starting to peak!!!! A freak of a wave...a legit 5 times overhead. It broke 100 yards in front of me and all I could see was a 15 foot wall of white water picking up steam and coming for me. So I had about 10 seconds to decide what to do. That was a LONG 10 seconds! I don't think I've ever been so afraid! I knew there was absolutely no chance to duck dive this locomotive avalanche of white water, so I just tossed the board to the side and dove straight down. When the wave hit me, the leash immediately snapped like it was nothing. No pull. No stretch. The white water then violently took me and cart wheeled me at least 10 times and then held me down so more before finally letting go! I was lucky enough to be fairly close to shore after the pounding and was able to swim in. That day has affected my surfing ever since. I don't paddle out any more on big days. I haven't quit like the Bull did...but I'm no longer willing to put myself in a life threatening surf situation again.
@jeffbauer34255 жыл бұрын
I hear ya. And although not like Mexico I'm an east coast Florida surfer . 56 and surf as well as I did at 14 . No physical problems.....but, less endurance on big north swells. Got worked on a good overhead+ day. Must train for those occasional bigger days!
@elijahpadin62594 жыл бұрын
Yeah man had a similar experience in a huge Costa Rica swell. I was scared for my life. After that I learned to respect the ocean alot more than I did. The experience definitely changed me. Just happy I can still surf
@jdoogy59424 жыл бұрын
Ok?
@sleepinglion11924 жыл бұрын
Sometimes it's the medium sized , shallow and hollow waves that are more dangerous. I've surfed big waves, where the waters deep, and you get pushed further and further towards shore. But I've had days at shallow reefs that are sucking off the reef, and it literally kept sucking me right back into the impact zone. Couldent get to shore.
@FARM8053 жыл бұрын
@@elijahpadin6259 what wave were you surfing?
@MarkAndrewsOCFOA5 жыл бұрын
I grew up in Torrance and I've surfed all over the world. That Hermosa breakwater spot is HEAVY on a big northwest swell. It's a complete beach break and there is a huge deep canyon right off shore so the waves come out of super deep water, hit the sand and jack up, throw and then crash straight down. We used to refer to surfing there as "turn and burn". You felt like you'd really accomplished something just making the drop and not going over the falls. Yes, the north shore is just as heavy or heavier but as someone else pointed out, there are channels you can use to paddle out and to avoid the larger sets. There's nothing like that in the South Bay( Torrance, Redondo, Hermosa, and Manhattan). Once I could drive and explore the rest of Cali, I was amazed that anyone actually learns to surf in the South Bay!
@lateapex94205 жыл бұрын
Getting caught on the inside of a big set when you're already tired/gassed in an experience only a surfer can understand.
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Late Apex thanks for watching
@Woopass905 жыл бұрын
That feeling of dread. You know the set is coming and youre too deep.
@hankdapper82395 жыл бұрын
Only an old fat out of shape surfer can understand.
@John-tg5vn5 жыл бұрын
@@hankdapper8239 (says the person who doesnt surf)
@BiggeDiehl5 жыл бұрын
@@hankdapper8239 Kook
@stevebarnette5 жыл бұрын
The older I get the more appreciate dudes still living for the thrill of it all. Great story, great memories.
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Steven Barnette thanks for the great comment.😀
@didoview3 жыл бұрын
Don’t let the numbers of the years you lived get control over your mind and body. When I was 20, my surfbuddy and I were sure we would surf no longer than into our 40ies. Now in my fifties I am fitter and better surfer then back in the days. Loss of stamina can be compensated by experience. Plus: I started kitesurfing a couple of years ago but that’s another story..
@nofanfare74263 жыл бұрын
Reminded me of late 70's, I got caught inside at Maroubra Sth Sydney Aus. I paddled out to make it over a monster and and in hindsight I would've been better off staying put. I got to where the impact exploded up, I pushed up and dove. When I came up the next wave was 10ft plus of foam comin' at me so I dived again, this time my leggy snapped. Every wave after was just foam so I swam with it as to futilely body surf them, as they washed over they pushed me under but gave me momentum toward shore. I got my board and sat on it looking out with a thumping headache for a bit, tied my leggy and went back out over at the reef where it was a bit smaller, I had to or I may never have gone out again LOL. My most scariest moment surfing.
@kevinlokitsjr68205 жыл бұрын
Mad respect for the old time chargers, us young guys can only hope to be like them when we get to there age 🤙🏾 I fucken love clean up sets, when a large West comes out of no where at Waimea and everyones scratching and ends up breaking all the way to the middle of the bay sending dudes and boards all the way back to shore is exciting.
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
kevin lokits jr thanks for the great comment🙏
@williambissell7945 жыл бұрын
I use to surf back in the stone ages before the leash was invented, believe it or not. When this happened to us we had to hold on to our boards or swim all the way to the beach. Imagine going over the falls backward, holding on to your board for dear life. What fun. We didn't know any better.
@mikewilliams2355 жыл бұрын
Knowing you shouldn't be out there, its to big. You take a fall, go deep, then the surreal feeling as the leash snaps and the tugging stops and you are just suspended there, its very peaceful, but your mind kicks in and you remember where you are and you get to the suface. The board has gone and you are 200 meters out and then bang the next wave runs you down, and there you are again down deep but no tug of the board, you are tired it feels nice, maybe just stay here... NO I must live... Fight to the surface, one breath next wave repeat repeat. Feet touches the bottom heads still in air. Elation, exhaustion, ankle deep now, over there is the board. Walk out collapse on the beach. Made it. Phew.
@Rich24875 жыл бұрын
I've never been in a situation as heavy as these but hey, yours is a good description of it. Is it true you end up being in peace for a moment down there? During that massive turbulance?
@didoview3 жыл бұрын
@@Rich2487 absolutely. After that very experience I came to the conclusion that drowing while surfing is probably one of the best ways to die. No non-surfer will understand that.
@moodjibra36775 жыл бұрын
My cousin and I went thru the exact same thing in Sth Sumatra in August 2018 when Bali was pumpin! I KNOW where your coming from cause we thought we were done...👍
@radjared5 жыл бұрын
What break were you surfing?
@jasonjackson56965 жыл бұрын
I grew up there & I’ve been out there when the sets were that big & breaking well beyond the arm of the breakwater at a minus tide - it gets pretty spooky with the giant sets coming in. There were times when just a handful of us locals were out wondering who was going to get cleaned up or make it all the way into the last close out section close to Lyndon Street. Fond memories ....
@TLD223 жыл бұрын
Great little production, with a fantastic narrative. Thanks Klein Creative.
@michaelcrabtree78595 жыл бұрын
Same thing happened to me at laperouse bay on maui. Except my leash did break instantly and i was pushed with that giant burble "feather" all the way inside pitch black and disoriented i almost drowned! It finally let me up i was 20 ft from the lava rocks to see another 20 ft of whitewater on my head. Ended on rocks being pulled out by onlookers.
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Michael Crabtree wow.... that is my worst nightmare. im glad you are okay.
@Hawaiiansailingcanoe5 жыл бұрын
Michael Crabtree That’s crazy bro I didn’t know you surfed but I’ve seen you make some crazy sick catches when you were in SF as a 49er
@lemoinedrake5 жыл бұрын
Derek Levy, nice! Competed against you in WSA contests in the '70s. Good to see you're still at it!
@stephenshy99413 жыл бұрын
I surfed the Breakwall all through the 80's and 90's, some really big days, that wave was a big wave boys. I remember a swell in the late 80's that blew my mind. The biggest waves I have ever surfed, breaking out by the bouy at low tide, once in a lifetime. Frosty and I were ridding 9'-10" surfboards back then, sitting way outside everyone.
@mckirkus4 жыл бұрын
Similar thing happened to me in La Jolla. Freak wave, thought I could paddle out fast enough to get over it but it broke right on my head. Felt like a car accident, snapped my leash. Thought I was ok but then I got stuck in the impact zone, eventually just got really tired, not panic but a calm. I just put my arm up as that was all I had the energy for. Luckily some other surfers dragged me out. Another one paddled out with my board. Surfing alone is definitely a bit risky.
@softhotty3 жыл бұрын
Great tale, enjoyed this. Got cleaned up at Domes Puerto Rico once.
@bonefishboards5 жыл бұрын
That's awesome! Type-2 fun. I love stories like that even though I've been in those situations, too.
@johnb15215 жыл бұрын
I was at Manhattan pier doing the dawn patrol there were five of us out and I saw a bump way out and I started scratching hard, we were on the south side of the pier my buddy's were saying where you going bro I said rouge wave they said naw! I looked to my right and i realized I had paddled past the end of the pier I looked back and there were 5 guys with eyes as big as baseballs they finally saw it, In the mean time I was digging hard I barely made it over the first wave there were 3 of them the second one I got off of my board and launched it over the top but I had made it, I grabbed my board and look up and there it was it was the size of a three story building and it broke about 10 feet in front of me I rolled over and held on to my board for dear life when it hit me it snapped my board in two pieces I had my legs and arms locked around it it jammed me straight to the bottom when I came up I was about 50 yards beyond the pier I looked up and I saw a hand reach out for me it was a lifeguard in a boat saying lets go man there are more coming I hoped aboard and we hauled ass out of there I was told later that the wave had broke about 30-40 yards out in front of the pier which never happens they gave my a ride to Redondo pier because it was the only safe place to drop me off. In all my years surfing the breakwall and Elporto I had never seen such a monster as that, all my buddy's thought I had bit it hard, 40 mins later I walked back and they had assumed I was dead, scared the livin shit out of me .
@A-FrameWedge5 жыл бұрын
My worst surfing experience is getting caught inside on a big day at the Wedge that all of sudden became a huge day, tried to duck under wave but did it too late and got hammered and got the wind knocked out me, got trashed with no breath, had to fight to surface because the wave wasn’t letting me up but got dragged down again, finally popped up and was hyperventilating and a bigger wave broke right in front of me, but I did just one somersault under water and it spit me out, otherwise I would of been dead. Never came that close to death, even in giant North Shore waves, I was just in the wrong spot at the wrong time.
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
A-Frame-Wedge I feel that... so scary
@Palpac5 жыл бұрын
My worst I got caught in a bad spot ended up pinned to the bottom with my board on top of me like a pancake right in the impact zone. Weird thing was after initially getting pinned and all the water pressing down on me it felt like I must have got hit by the second wave too before surfacing as I felt that sensation of being crushed under my board twice.
@smidon5 жыл бұрын
God damn - experienced the same thing myself back in the day. 1st wave cleaned up my buddies and I thought I was sorted. Wrong, next one was a monster. Nice one guys.
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Don thanks for the comment. I felt that way b4 in 1/4 the size waves. 😂
@jamesbadham2285 жыл бұрын
Yo Derek, I remember seeing the stills on FB. Nice to turn it into a tale for KZbin.
@tuskedbeast5 жыл бұрын
Loved it! Talking story is a surfer's tradition. I have a whole playlist of caught inside moments, it's a visceral part of my personal surfing memories. This is great, and will go in there toot sweet!
@nathangriffith27375 жыл бұрын
There is no scarier feeling then pulling away from a wave and seeing a huge set
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Nathan Griffith I totally agree
@kentswarroom89193 жыл бұрын
ONLY a surfer knows the feeling...in the words of Gerry Lopez...when caught inside ...keep paddling...just like in life...SOLID!!
@WadeMcCulloch5 жыл бұрын
That feeling when a big wave breaks outside and you know you can handle it, but then you pop up and a wave that is out of your league starts to wall up even farther out, and you have that feeling that everything isn't ok. I had that happen in Mexico. It was already too big for me, so I sat way outside. Then a wall appears on the horizon that is almost double the size of the waves you've been fearing. Ugh. BARELY got under it by ditching my board. Probably 18 foot face.
@jeffbauer34255 жыл бұрын
I have dreams like that . "Fuck ! This wave coming is 15-20ft. !! ( east coast Florida surfer here) Panic!, Deep breath ,! dive"! (Probably sleep apnea).
@myredute5 жыл бұрын
Great story.Reminds me of surfing the Bombora off Long Reef in Australia in the late 60's on a 7'9" board.
@bake5475 жыл бұрын
Never surfed Redondo Bosa Chica & Huntington cliffs. Great film
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Terry Baker Thank you for watching and for your comment. Please subscribe to my channel if you’d like to see more videos like this in the future. I try to do something cool like this every year
@michaela58745 жыл бұрын
Winter of '82-'83 I watched a giant low tighten up off the Aleutians, caught the red eye into LAX, watched guys surf a giant swell at this spot, some incredible rides. At the time it was illegal to jump and cops were chasing the surfers. Is it now legal? BTW, ended up going to Palos Verdes, got hassled by the locals (hey, I didn't know!) but fortunately not all of them could make it out.
@Palpac5 жыл бұрын
I had this when I was younger in Great Barrier NZ, the waves were not as big as this though. I was out with mates and it was around 6ft on the sets. I got cleaned up and headed in. I was sitting on the beach watching my mates when I saw a wave coming in spread the full length of the beach a good few km/miles long and jacking up way out past where the other sets were breaking. Someone out there surfing was surfing from his 12-13 ft yacht which was already out behind the break. Everybody out the got cleaned up even the yacht which was anchored got its mast dipped in the water after getting rolled by the white water which was taller than the cabin of the yacht. Pretty sure it was 2 waves of similar size out of nowhere. Probably 12-15 ft both closing out along the whole beach. So glad I was already back on shore because being the less experienced and crapiest duck diver of the lot I would have drowned for sure.
@scottwoodrich63534 жыл бұрын
Roague set for sure- I remember reading about a similar situation at swami's I'm one of the mags years ago- real down to earth recounting-🤙
@thelastrebelshow16275 жыл бұрын
Every big day has a clean up set, it’s all part of it. Better watch the outside!
@sleepinglion11924 жыл бұрын
Gotta surf the cleanup sets
@mikewilliams2355 жыл бұрын
Love stories like this. Well told.
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Mike Williams thanks Mike. Please subscribe if you want notification of my next surf video.
@nate_dawg11534 жыл бұрын
i was there that day, it was so huge (for california) lol
@timking73725 жыл бұрын
Thank you for sharing!!!
@FosterMedia5 жыл бұрын
Thumbs up for all the surfers sat here with sweaty hands and a bouncing knee.
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Brad Foster great comment👍
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Brad Foster if you want to be notified when I put out a new surf video, please subscribe
@rvmcwhorter6 жыл бұрын
The break wall was going off !! Freak set !! Reminds me of my youth .... These guys are about my age .... Crazy OGs.
@KleinCreativeMedia6 жыл бұрын
rvmcwhorter Yes..... crazy from the beach too. I can’t imagine going under that......
@jeffbauer34255 жыл бұрын
What most don't realize, is that surfing takes alot of conditioning for such situations. I've learned that when I hadn't surfed in awhile and get worked on just an overhead east coast Florida north swell !
@nick9zx5 жыл бұрын
Florence or was it around thanksgiving? Both of those were fireee in the Jax area
@4dogsannacat5 жыл бұрын
Jeff Jones, definitely remember when he ruled Hermosa in the late eighties.
@johnmcculloch57365 жыл бұрын
You guys were lucky that it was bumped out. If it was offshore and clean then the compression is much greater. Been there bro big time...bigger and I know all about LUCK
@MrTobinite5 жыл бұрын
I don't know this wave but it looks like a beach break. When you get big long period swells I steer clear of beaches because all it takes is a couple unlucky big ones to line up outside and you're in for a beating. At least reef you can take the luck out of it haha
@jaywagner135 жыл бұрын
Could u explain what u mean? I am a beginner surfer and I'm interested in what your talking about. About the compression and how the face of a wave makes a difference.
@brentdean26164 жыл бұрын
@@jaywagner13 Offshore winds hold the wave up longer so their is more water in them when they break. More water = more weight on your ears and body. You actually feel your ears pop duck diving under big waves.
@brianpark25645 жыл бұрын
That music went from super heavy /scary, to a lighthearted youtuber background music-- that made it kinda anticlimactic
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Brian Park sorry Brian... I’ll work on that for my next one.🏄🏻
@radbikeadventure5 жыл бұрын
Agreed
@BrendaKC2 жыл бұрын
I still can't believe I was there and saw this massive wave!
@KleinCreativeMedia2 жыл бұрын
Me too. Crazy day. Glad the guys got out safely and had a fun day.
@paulmcdiarmid87345 жыл бұрын
Onya lads. Great tale and glad you got through it alive.
@OCP743 жыл бұрын
Is the raw video out there?
@1974mazdarx3sedan5 жыл бұрын
meanwhile at 5:11 there's a guy further inside keeping his board and duckdiving as whitewater comes down the face. YOHB?
@jasonjackson56965 жыл бұрын
Randy looks like his dad - amazing resemblance.
@c.t.63145 жыл бұрын
Woah this is actually a recent video! Cool! Yeah waves don’t get that big at the breakwall that’s why these guys are happy to be alive haha. Hawaii is a different caliber but this is massive for RB ✌️
@stevencope34142 жыл бұрын
Breakwall is scary at size you get those classic ones then the set from hell always makes your day complete. You go down spinn around uo then sucked down again and spun some more.Remember it well
@gregarnett69945 жыл бұрын
Can Totally relate... heart drops to your gut
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Greg Arnett 🏄🏻👍
@jasonji32635 жыл бұрын
What a great video! Thanks for sharing!
@chrisscott24985 жыл бұрын
That thing was a beast, no doubt....especially when your head's at water level. Funny to read all the comments below trying to make it seem like it was overstated...it's pretty fucking obvious the minute you see that wall that this isn't just another 12-15 footer. Been there quite a few times, and it's always the same story in the beginning - you see something WAY outside of where they're normally feathering, and your very first thought is nah, that ain't a wave...
@eganc19766 жыл бұрын
Doesn't the wind always come up around 11 over them there parts?
@jasonjackson56965 жыл бұрын
gangsterboogie - unless it is raining then the prevailing wind is offshore.
@FARM8053 жыл бұрын
What was the month of this? Jan 18 2018? Feb 24 2016?? Anyone?
@mikevitali67995 жыл бұрын
Love it
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Mike Vitali thanks
@paulocesardauxfilho27555 жыл бұрын
the thing about surfers... we all pass trough scary and heavy situations, pray to God to get out alive. And them put ourselves into other situations worst than the first ones. Hope God still watching for us... mad men.
@beachbum48055 жыл бұрын
The ones that push the Limits sometimes discover the limits push back
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Tristan Vlogs good quote
@chargermedia5 жыл бұрын
@@KleinCreativeMedia that quote was from the movie Chasing Mavericks
@sleepinglion11924 жыл бұрын
chargermedia if you chase Mavericks, Mavericks is gonna chase you back
@chadmichael19165 жыл бұрын
Sick vid.thank you
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Chad Michael thank you 🙏
@alipergp61785 жыл бұрын
Awesome
@anotherworldviewispossible6 жыл бұрын
Looks like a big set... Can I ask you the date of this incident?
@KleinCreativeMedia6 жыл бұрын
Another WorldView Is Possible 1.9.19. Big Wednesday
@anotherworldviewispossible6 жыл бұрын
@@KleinCreativeMedia TYVM! Cool video. I think that was Rincon day for me.
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Another WorldView Is Possible January 9 2019
@swampassgaming35264 жыл бұрын
Sucks when you paddle out on a big day and then realize the waves are hell of a lot bigger in person compared to seeing them from ashore.
@spicoledude5 жыл бұрын
There’s more haters in the comment section than good ones. Definetely 15-20ft if you measure correctly (not Hawaiian) with some freak sets.
@urvidsucks15 жыл бұрын
jeff spicoli at what point of the video do you see 15-20ft waves?
@jeremybradley5595 жыл бұрын
That was 8 foot TOPS not a cm more.
@chargermedia5 жыл бұрын
@@jeremybradley559 pretty sure if you went over the falls you'd fall more than 8 ft
@Hawaiiansailingcanoe5 жыл бұрын
Hawaiian scale is correctly-it’s funny how if you surf for real you can spot someone who doesn’t just by their KZbin comment...I must say, these are pretty big waves I’d call it 6-8 with some a little bigger maybe, but to make some dramatic ten minute video about two old dudes getting caught inside at some 6-8 foot Cali beach break with all the dramatic music is pretty douchey
@chargermedia5 жыл бұрын
@@Hawaiiansailingcanoe what is Chopes Hawaiian scale? 4 ft backs, 15' faces? makes perfect sense right?
@wandarebiejo64094 жыл бұрын
Where?
@KleinCreativeMedia4 жыл бұрын
Wanda Rebiejo redondo beach
@KleinCreativeMedia4 жыл бұрын
Wanda Rebiejo breakwall
@lg56835 жыл бұрын
I remember your father well. He was nice man.
@anyDasein4 жыл бұрын
3-4 foot Hawaiian
@paulmort85075 жыл бұрын
Do a story on why people feel the need to belittle others instead of moving on with their own lives that are obviously not as good as they would like. Peace
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
paul mort good idea😀👍
@BiggeDiehl5 жыл бұрын
The kooks belittle real surfers because they be little in the shorts - hung like a hamsters!
@johnmcculloch57365 жыл бұрын
How lucky to have it on film
@clarkewi5 жыл бұрын
Good story.
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
clarkewi thank you🙏
@leandropinero78305 жыл бұрын
2:43 old school style
@eszky82673 жыл бұрын
Bruh I feel scared in 3ft waves
@GuildF402 жыл бұрын
You paddle out and take a few, you keep paddling take a few more get little tired. You keep paddling a heavy set comes you get spanked... you keep paddling exhausted using one arm.... and then folks that is when the full set of waves comes. Killers, Morrocco over 30 years ago.
@watergraffiti5 жыл бұрын
mainbreak Margies west oz is the worst for this, some serious heavy water, and deep under so it really holds u down. the sets show up outta no where and straight off the continental shelf so it could be a 3ft day and turn into what these guys copped on the head!
@michaelwendell77715 жыл бұрын
Ya.....All us old fu#ks have our stories ! Steamers Lane 1974, maxed out ! I try and take off a bit late, lip lock and it's a free fall down to the troff. I land on my back, all air expelled from my lungs. Tumbling like a washing machine when....WAAAM ! Board hits me in the forehead. NO AIR, BLEADING LIKE A STUCK PIG ! With my last bit of hope I break surface and gasp a breath of air only to open my eyes to a big ass harbor seal two feet in front of me licking his chops...….Oh what a day !!
@getl0st5 жыл бұрын
Nothing sucks more on a Big Day than getting out the back and then wondering how the fuck your going to get back in because the waves are almost to paddle into....
@TRIKushbeachside5 жыл бұрын
Worst feeling ever, barely getting under the first one only to pop up and confirming the thought that was racing through your mind that the next one is bigger and going to land right on your head. They technically didn’t get fully caught inside, they lucked out and got under it before it bottomed out. If they would have been another 5 - 10 yards in they most certainly would not have popped up laughing or anywhere near each other. Definitely not a walk through by any means lol but they skated under that one in time.
@elnino43065 жыл бұрын
You think your in the right spot you got everything planned out and all of a sudden here come a clean up set and your going over the falls !! The same thing could be said for life !! You just got to dig your way out 🤔
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching
@MaceoGames5 жыл бұрын
That wave was huge but not 30feet more like 15 to 20
@Nofishnoclue5 жыл бұрын
Good sized waves but nowhere near 20-30ft face, were talking like 12 ft face max and a pretty soft 12 ft, now I don't think that distracts from the story just seems odd to play it up so much,
Pause the video at 5:06 and look at the length of the board you can see through the wave. Estimate the length of that board taking into account it's on an angle. Call that unit distance maybe 5' or 4'. Now estimate how many of those "unit" lengths tall that wave is by measuring from the highest point on the left to where the whitewater obscures the trough. It is a big wave and call it either 8' Hawaiian, or 6' West Oz or the actual distance from crest to trough.
@plonked68155 жыл бұрын
@@zebraaaa9821 He uses the Hawaiian scale I'm pretty sure just like we do in aus
@gerarddevanny27205 жыл бұрын
Big waves aren't measured in increments of feet.
@mikeneumann46605 жыл бұрын
Dam
@Dannyt78732 жыл бұрын
10ft set, 12 tops. I wouldn't go out in it but let's not pretend the waves are gigantic
@jabbabbabba6 жыл бұрын
Do a story on how these 2 guys have been violent locals at this spot for decades.
@KleinCreativeMedia6 жыл бұрын
jabbabbabba that’s not this story... this one is just about a big wave.
@jabbabbabba6 жыл бұрын
@@KleinCreativeMedia You don't say? I suggested a different story for you to consider. Comprehension issues much?
@KleinCreativeMedia6 жыл бұрын
jabbabbabba if you want to book my company to tell a story, you can tell any story you wish. Www.kleincreativemedia.com. We make custom videos for our clients.
@jabbabbabba6 жыл бұрын
@@KleinCreativeMedia Next time I need a 30 second story stretched out to a 15 minute puff piece Ill get right on it.
@KleinCreativeMedia6 жыл бұрын
jabbabbabba I’m sorry you feel the need to be mean and rip on my story telling. If you treat people this way in the water , it wouldn’t surprise me if they didn’t welcome you in the line-up. Kindness goes a lot farther. Happy surfing.
@solsurfer15586 жыл бұрын
🙏
@KleinCreativeMedia6 жыл бұрын
Thank you for your support😀👍
@the40yogamer5 жыл бұрын
that's the classic story isn't it im the only one that charged it. and hell na I'm not gonig back out after this wave
@joelcorral24756 жыл бұрын
That was strange...a 6 minute documentary about a clean up set?..... A little too dramatic.....
@KleinCreativeMedia6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for watching anyway. 🏄🏻
@douglaswade58765 жыл бұрын
OMG!!!!
@justink72695 жыл бұрын
Short version: a larger than usual wave came through. It was fun. Our lives were definitely not in danger.
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Justin K funny. 👍
@tomvertz58755 жыл бұрын
Thats not a wave,yeah thats a ripple. Seen bigger waves in my bathtub. The Rothman and Surrat of Redondo..lmfao
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
Tom Vertz lol.... good comment.
@xyzct5 жыл бұрын
Thank God they had their -beer bellies- personal flotation systems under their wetsuits.
@jasongauci6345 жыл бұрын
Scary stuff no thanks
@johnnyutah62396 жыл бұрын
Good times
@carsonkent78865 жыл бұрын
hes acting like hes a god for "surviving" that set. ive seen waves that size here in florida. its not as big as they think
@sleepinglion11924 жыл бұрын
No waves that big here in Florida
@Kernowking1015 жыл бұрын
What a fish story! It's triple overheard and not a foot more.
@Kernowking1015 жыл бұрын
@Nathan Charlesworth You can use the surfer as a reference to the face of the wave. He takes almost half the height of the wave and he isnt even standing up straight. It's 18ft or about 10ft Hawaiian.
@cononmctapper2025 жыл бұрын
That's not 30ft. 2019 is with u
@KleinCreativeMedia5 жыл бұрын
jeff said maybe.... maybe not. But every story is from someone’s perspective. That’s what it felt like when they told their story. I was on the beach and it took my breath away. Looked like a sunami coming at us. I thought I may have to move my camera back to save it. I was shooting on a 200
@cononmctapper2025 жыл бұрын
@@KleinCreativeMedia I love u bubba
@jeremybradley5595 жыл бұрын
Klein Creative Media it was a 6 to 8 foot wave tops. Not worthy of the build up that it got. It was just a set wave in a bay that couldn’t handle that much water. They made it sound like big nazare or Waimea bay.
@jackstrada52635 жыл бұрын
A double overhead wave breaking in front of you at backdoor or OTW will pound you way harder than this big mush burger.
@radjared5 жыл бұрын
No it wouldn't
@jackstrada52635 жыл бұрын
J Magnums 2 things are clear. You’ve never been caught by a 15 foot wave. And you’ve never had a double overhead wave break on your head at backdoor.
@radjared5 жыл бұрын
@@jackstrada5263 Let's be clear. I've surfed bigger waves than what you've ever dreamed of little man.
@radjared5 жыл бұрын
@@jackstrada5263 you little bitch
@chriscoralAloha5 жыл бұрын
Breakwall kooks need to get eyes recalibrated.
@EuropeDominate5 жыл бұрын
2-3 feet max
@MrEtherShot5 жыл бұрын
Cool story but not like inside Waimea shorebreak or Mavericks
@SenneffRules5 жыл бұрын
Two kooks talking about their encounter with a set wave "oh no it's an eight footer!" LMAO they making it sound all dramatic lol just duckdive its mushy redondo beach lol
@willcrowell57165 жыл бұрын
Always a hater in the group for no reason whatsoever
@jeremybradley5595 жыл бұрын
Will Crowell he is spot on. They made a doco out of that? I was believing they’re story etc til I realised that the footage was actually of that day and that it was small lame surf. The wedge gets way worse than that. Yeah it would scare a non charger but I assumed they were chargers til I saw the wave.
@UxMADxBROx5 жыл бұрын
20 to 30ft? Pfff 10 max...
@Putocurioso5 жыл бұрын
Big enough for who’s telling the story. Flat, tiny, there’s waves today, big, really big, and tow in status.