Giga Sized 3D Printer Mods! Elegoo Orange Storm Giga

[@RocketMagnetUK]

Turn the pipe 180 and have the cable feed in the other side or am i missing something?

[@beaniiman]

yeah, that was my thought exactly.

[@Real_Name_Redacted]

Wonder why they didn't do a single large build plate, from the jump?

[@RocketMagnetUK]

My guess is cost and availability.

[@Real_Name_Redacted]

I mean, it's already a 2500 printer, for a very specific use case. Might as well

[@Draconus19]

Companies have trouble getting bed that are completely Level imagine a giant sheet of metal like that

[@BoredMan_XCI]

Because that's what testing is for. Elegoo should have QC'd this better. It's cool, I'd like one for cosplay one shots, but design features should have been thought out better. But why bake yourself when you can have your community do it for you. Companies need to step up their game.

[@carneliotophat6512]

Exactly, I understand it would increase cost and it would be hard to work with but it would’ve improved the design and quality of life

[@SirLANsalot]

Mounting the Camera on "some kind of surface"....being a Saturn 4 LOL.

[@UncleJessy]

😂🤣🤘

[@bryanfoster362]

Wyze cams have magnetic bases, why not just stick it to the rail?

[@UncleJessy]

@@bryanfoster362 unfortunately doesn’t work. Was my first thought as well

[@chadhowell1328]

@@UncleJessymust be aluminum rails I assume? I looked on elegoos website but it doesn’t state what they are made of but since you said the magnetic base doesn’t stick to it then one can only assume that.

[@damianstone-foster5768]

@@chadhowell1328 steel would cost alot more to ship and could rust in places like florida

[@BeefIngot]

For that spool holder I feel a bit of a triangular truss with 2 printed peices meeting at the middle higher than they start with a secondary meeting to hold the sensor would be great.

[@TinTalon]

Cool ideas for the printer. You could use some type of square tubing or 2020 extrusion instead of the round pipe and then just use the same filament holder that came with it and mount it in the center. The original mount could just mount the to 2020 with t nuts or m4 or m5 screws and heat inserts.

[@Borman18]

That was my thought too

[@stang65gt70]

I’m an early bird backer so in theory my unit should be on he way and it’s really disappointing to see elegoo again leaving it to the community to fix their kickstarter projects ( I backed the Jupiter and the Phecda) sponsoring a vid where you work on fixing their design flaws seems like a bit of an fu to the backers

[@RobertD_83]

I hear ya, I do, but why keep backing their kickstarters when this is your pov of the company. To actually effect any kind of change to their anti consumer business practices (releasing unfinished products, not bothering to fix those products instead relying on the community, misuse of Kickstarter) those practices cannot be condoned but must be *actively* discouraged. Complaining while simultaneously throwing money at them undermines your position. The only thing I've ever seen sway any company is money, especially for higher cost items like this. Just my $0.02

[@stang65gt70]

@@RobertD_83 valid question and it will be the last product of theirs I back but the jupiter and phecda despite not being supported post release both worked mostly well (the jupiter needed a z axis brace and the phecda limit switches which were never addressed by elegoo) but other than those small issues for the price point at the time of their releases were well featured and didn't feel like an active cash grab. The giga from all the early tests and reviews does especially knowing they've already shipped the customer units while problems keep coming up

[@Devnix95]

Problem: Extrusion mounts are loose. Suggestion: Make some holes in the mounts and use t-nuts in those extrusions in the top of the frame. Problem: Spools hanging too low. Suggestion: Make it taller OR use a double rod design that has the spools sit "loose" on top, using bearings to let them spin. Awesome project tho :D

[@danob9869]

just slide de spool over that tube from the other side??? then again if you use a double tube with like bearings at both ends so they can roll you can simply put the roll on top of it?

[@nickt4508]

you could have slid it from the other side

[@chrisdixon5241]

Was my first thought also! :) It might be less convenient with the wall in the way, but you could totally put the filament on from the other side. Perhaps even consider turning the printer to make reaching that side easier

[@edavi394]

any chance of sharing the model files, or letting us know how you did that awesome mesh on the bottom of the tray for the build plate holder?

[@BradMakula]

Maybe just lock the pipe in place and mount the existing filament holder on that? That should let you run the wiring back through the pipe too

[@UncleJessy]

Yeah, someone else suggested something similar. I might try to do that.

[@xcnewb7313]

How about turning the pipe 90 degrees, add a hinge mount on the back, open pipe mount to hold the pipe by the control screen then you can do your roll changes from the front and fish the sensor wire through the hinge mount on the back so it's out of the way also.

[@mctag5317]

ie: filament detector... Mount it on or over the print head so you don't lose 4 feet of filament when it runs out. Maybe where the cable track mounts.

[@filipefarias3076]

I don’t think the cable would be long enough to move it to the printhead. And if it did it would be loose and might hit the printing object. Unless you could do some trick cable management.

[@Nik-wi4rr]

I'm so excited about this printer. It should be here first week of July! I think some Plexiglass siding is certainly something I'll be looking into as we will be making furniture from recycled PET!

[@kingsidorak]

Second smaller pole for the sensor, adjustable for larger or smaller spools

[@arudanel5542]

Maybe 3D print some brackets to build an A-frame mount for the spools. 4 brackets to mount to the top rails, 2 brackets to hold the top pvc pipe and connect to the 4 short pipe pieces as well, and a pipe across above that to hold the runout sensor?

[@jamesanderson2381]

You could turn the pipe 90 degrees so it runs front to back. Then you could run the cable for the filament runout sensor from the back to the middle of the pipe, but load the spools of filament from the front of the machine. You might also want to think about having 2 pipes - one for the spool of filament, maybe slight off to one side, and the second pipe to guide the filament over and down through the filament runout sensor in the center of the top of the machine.

[@Sunbound77]

Why not put the filament runout on the print head?

[@mgsghost]

What about keeping the pvc as is with the run out sensor and think bunk beds have another length of pipe above it so top can have the filament bottom has the run out so the fillinent feeds into the runout from above

[@LeighLouu]

For the pvc across the top, just run the wire the other side? Since it is against the wall, you wouldn't be lifting that side. So you can slide on your spools on the right while the wire goes down the left side of the pvc.

[@rfnovo]

Just adapt the spool holder on the back to be attached to the tube. It will raise the spool and solve the issue with the cable since you won’t have to slide the spool thru the tube. You will need to screw the tube edges to the side mount so it won’t spin

[@UncleJessy]

Ohhhh I like that idea!!

[@hughmanateecrisis]

You could try a second smaller pipe just for the runout sensor, or extend and run the cable from the other side, so you can still slide spools on as intended.

[@dylanmenzel762]

What if you had a separate conduit for the runout sensor? Modify your bracket to hold a smaller pipe, run the sensor through there? Obviously leaving enough room for the filament spool to still roll on the pipe you have.

[@justinfritz8796]

I would try a double channel system for the spools and the sensors. Have a small pipe that runs across the center that has the wires and the sensors on it then a little higher up take the pipe you have and put the spools into it. You need to raise the spool pipe anyway, may as well add a wire channel for the run out sensors this way you can get them in place and wired in then not worry about it. I would also recommend getting or making some wire extensions for the sensor cables.

[@Parodidical]

Hey, is there a reason you didnt move the bed to the back so the first revision of the wyze mount wouldnt be in the printing area

[@UncleJessy]

Easy… I’m lazy haha nah just didn’t want to have to rework anything else with my profiles / start code. Actually yeah that does sound like being lazy 😂

[@Parodidical]

@@UncleJessy ok

[@emberprototypes]

That build plate is freaking gigantic!!! 🤯 And here I was thinking the custom 525x525mm plates we have were already huge hahaha

[@DawnGDDC]

Where are those clips you designed for the pipe to be held in?

[@woodwaker1]

You showed one of the biggest advantages of 3D printing - the ability to quickly modify and create new versions.

[@codyblackwelder8682]

Not sure if your done but the top mount make it use 2 pipes resting on bearings, the you can set the filament rest in between the two pipes and the freely roll? This will also raise it above the print head at max height

[@BektostheBlackBlade]

My thoughts of the spool issue would have been mounting a pulley after the sensor then on the PVC pipe in the center a second pulley where the filament would go down to the nozzle.

[@smtkelly]

for the filament bar you could buy the same extrusion as the frame, print brackets and then you can just transfer all the original things to it plus some cable extenders for the run out sensor. The PVC pole you cut is too short, there's a risk it'll sag over time pulling free or drop enough the reel fouls the head. If you really want to stick to low cost something like a round/square pipe or white metal curtain pole (28mm)

[@Tanner3D]

You could still run your wire and sensor from the other side that is against the wall where you don't plan on unhooking the pipe all the time.

[@jeb5137]

Just have two pipes going across the top? One for wiring that's a bit more "permanent" and the other to hold spools. Then any sensors, wires, and whatnot can be put in the permanent pipe and won't be messed with as much avoiding wear and tear. For the spool pipe, just print taller brackets. OR print one backet that holds two pipes, one above the other, with spools on top feeding down into the bottom pipe with sensors.

[@rconary]

Not using the pipe, but, you could make a bar that snaps onto the frame that goes from one side to the other that you then mount the original spool holder on. You might even be able to keep the pipe if you design a plate to attach the original spool holder to that then attaches to the pipe.

[@ogrefade]

Perhaps if you routed the wire to the wall side of the giga. So you can route the wire, and add the spools of filament. You could cut a slot in the bottom of the 4' pipe so you can lift it without disconnecting the wire.

[@klschofield71]

Swap the side where the runout sensor wire goes in over to the less accessible side, which allows for swapping spools easily without interference from the wire. Add a horizontal bump out that will lock into the recess on the inside of the top frame rails. Triangulate your bracket where the pipe geometry is the top point and the frame rail geometry is your bottom two points. You can use your ring idea if you make it so it's on either side of the spool and meets in the middle below the spool.

[@ezekielgml]

Could you run the filament sensor to the other side of the PVC pipe? Also I would just mount it higher and put a hole in the extrusion part to help hold it down.

[@AFAR2809]

i would model something of a bracket for the run-out sensor to sit on top of the print head. if the wires are long enough, thread it through the cable chain track to make sure that it doesn't fold and rub onto itself.

[@jerrodh]

I would just span a couple Repkord RepRack spool holders across the top. They use two lengths of EMT conduit instead of PVC. The obvious advantage is that any spool can come on or off at any time, vs having to thread them on in sequence from one end.

[@wesleyvanzwol4916]

You can also mount the spool holder on top of the pipe then it is higher and you don't need to detach the pipe when changing a spool.

[@jackflaps4252]

Turn the printer 90 degrees to the right, then you can use the other end to put filament on and off without hitting wires. Can print your side brackets taller to move filament rolls up and then maybe design a screw into it to key into the top sides of the printer

[@headhunter_4209]

why did you not just flip the pipe round so the wire is running from the wall side leaving the other end open to slide the filament on

[@UncleJessy]

Yeah I might do that… need to order a longer cable for that to work

[@exakelgaming]

i would have fed the cable for the FRS to the closed end and buy an extension cable to make it to the middle of the pipe. a pivot on the closed end might work too.

[@billverine765]

Love the backyard engineering my friend. I think you are on the right track with the spool holder. I would just make the brackets that hold the pipe tall enough to allow the run-out sensor enough room to hang below without sacrificing any build height. Remember to measure twice and cut once, you made the pipe just a tad short methinks. If any bowing happens from filament weight she might flex right onto the build plate and ruin your day.

[@nilsennl]

Potentially a silly question, but if you rotate the pipe by 90 degrees would you not be able to route the cable for the runout sensor through the pipe instead of leaving it hanging?

[@G4CEFITNESS]

Great direction however, the 3k spool will be too heavy for the pipe and it would bend it. I would just invest in aluminum rail and print some brackets for it. Also, you should just print an actual spool holder and not rely on sliding the filament through the pipe. You'll get frustrated sliding it in and out. For the build plate, can you reach out to the company that made the build plate and give them the exact measurements so they could make one that perfectly fits? Great video as always

[@kornsteven8935]

With the spool holder, you could just get another t-bar and design brackets to hold it above the print volume and use the original mounting hardware on the printer to mount the spool/run out sensor

[@bertmccumber4968]

Thanks for all of the work you've done with this. Do you think it is worth getting, if someone is interested in using it for a business that prints large items? Has Elegoo implemented any changes that you have suggested?

[@Youngrich87]

I would use a 3030 aluminum extrusion for a cross member. That way you could utilize the existing spool holder (with T-nut) and design/print a dual sided spool holder. This would allow you to run the sensor wires through the t slots and keep them in place with slot covers like the existing wire runs. 3030 extrusion would make it easier to design future mods as well. The only real downside I see is the cost of the extrusion

[@sjmaguirepdx]

You might rarely print full height but if you do will the camera hit the top rail?

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

Nice video. top mounted spool holder. double up the pipes. 2 pipes, you can make a clip on bracket for the runout sensor, thus move it behind the spool of filament.

[@scooterjes]

For the spool holder try adding a few 45 or 90 degree fittings to make a roof type structure that elevates the spool.

[@codygoss7294]

I would leave the spool holder where it is. Then design a bearing holder that redirect the filament direction. If you need to further reduce the force to pull the filament, put the spool on bearings. Bonus points if you used a bowden tube to make it easier to load the filament into the redirecting bearing.

[@TapticDigital]

Next step acrylic enclosure?

[@corrupted1850]

honestly i think the runout sensor should be just above the hotend so you dont waste as much filament

[@brakisshuron]

Just use a jst crimper and extend the wire around the frame to the left side and run it through your side bracket. Use 8mm screws and locking v nuts to hold the brackets in place, dane use your filament mount bracket that you designed extend it to the right a bit in front of the spool and just put a simple 1/2 in screw and hold it in place to keep it from spinning.

[@christiantoth7959]

I would simply screw an aluminium profile in the same dimension as the frame over the middle. This even provides additional stability. And then you can mount the original filament holder and sensor on this beam instead of the rear one

[@IceStayne]

I would move the spool holder arm directly to the new pole add on, then it would work with the sensor being offset a little bit

[@DagrtOne]

Make the brackets holding the pipe an a-frame. That will elevate the spool and then you can hang the run out sensor using a c-clip shape on brackets so you don’t have to slide it on, just clip it on.

[@tombo7719]

2 poles going across the top, and then a lil "PAD" that can actually hold the 5KG spool holder, or one that could be for the 1000 gram roll, as in sits on top. So you need a DOUBLE 1.25" stand off mount, (2) PVC PCS AND RUN THE WIRES THROUGH IT, AND ATTACH a flat spool mount to it , and you might actually want to mount the spool sideways so it comes out directly in the middle.. and a guide for the filament there in the middle to keep it okay.

[@beaniiman]

run your sensor wire along the other side of the tube (wall side) that should make it easy to load filiment from the accessible side. That is unless the way the cable length is and where it starts is an issue. Then just do it with an extension to the cable.

[@UncleJessy]

Yeah going to order up some extra long cabling and try that

[@FadedHero636]

Make an extension cable for the runout sensor and route it through the side of the pipe next to the wall. For the runout sensor it self, put a screw through the ring to lock it into place.

[@pereegrinus69]

Just got my giga and was looking for a plate holder or something to keep them flat. Is the plate holder shared out any where? I don't see it on patreon. Thanks

[@Manchuwook]

Drill two sets of holes, one on the end and one in the middle. Then have a cross-bolt perpendicular through the middle to keep a post mounted for the spool and sensor, then have another on the end where the mounting bracket to the frame is. [bracket]===============[sensor mount]||

[@monkeywrench1951]

What about the TronXY large printers ? They’ve had large format 3D printers for a while, and the prive isn’t too different from the Orange Storm’s MSRP.

[@herbveitenhans3285]

Add another piece of pvc pipe across the top for the rolls of filament. May want to check the deflection of the pvc though as it will sag over time.

[@aaronnichols9338]

What program were you using to 3d model? Looking for something user friendly to start learning

[@alfrednorris1895]

look up the top-mounted spool holder people use on K1 Max....it would work very well sized up

[@IOSALive]

Uncle Jessy, Subscribed because your content is fantastic!

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks mate!

[@Alphaseen]

I would replace the PVC with an extruded alum rail and just move the mounts for the spool holder and sensors from the back to the center. Looking at the wire for the run out sensors you should be able to get a 2 to 3 foot long 3-wire extension cable and move all the run out sensors to the new center rail. You can then use 3d printing to make brackets for the PVC pipe and make a heavy duty spool holder for 5kg spools.

[@transistorbrains]

Just mount 2 PVC pipes on there and sit the spools on top (a la repkord), that way you don't have to remove the PVC pipe every time you change filament and you don't have to try to slide the filament past the wires. If that is not acceptable, slide the filament on from the opposite end of the PVC pipe (the side by the column) or route the wire in the opposite direction.

[@flynnshuker384]

With the sensor you could flip the pipe around so u feed the filament from the other side

[@b3nny90]

Leave the spool where it is, move only the filament sensor to that pipe. Keeping the pipe slightly loose could allow it to move to a natural spot where it doesn't go under tension. It's sad that a company like Elegoo hasn't tested this printer enough to eliminate these. They had time, they got the backing funds it just blows my mind that it's still a problem.

[@tinmole9032]

Run the wire down the other side and put in a hinge, put the whole thing on rollers so it moves with the extruder

[@CCGamesceo]

How about a 2x4 and move the filament holder and runout sensor?

[@samster1995]

Spool holder/stand with skateboard bearings is the best strain relief for filament. Using it on all printers.

[@josephgoyettey3229]

Why don’t you run the filament run out sensor cable through the pipe on the other side.

[@getbent57]

That build plate holder turned out awesome.

[@UncleJessy]

Thanks!!! 10 min modeling in shapr3d 🤘😬

[@jonyair]

@@UncleJessy Curious about how you made the bottom pattern of the plate holder. It looks fantastic. I tried using 20% Gyroid infill and removing bottom shell trick in OrcaSlicer, but it's still not as clean as yours.

[@gadgetmerc]

It seems odd to point out a design flaw, attempt to fix it, but also fail with many obvious options. Perfect example of why the YT algorithm sucks. Deadlines are deadlines I guess. I understand and still love you man. Obviously subscribed and can't wait for the next one.

[@carlosdelarosa2747]

Did you already do a review video for the Saturn 4

[@OriginalSharpe]

Just run the cable through the other end of the pipe. That will keep the original side open to allow for the spool to run.

[@PLr1c3r]

Don't use PLA for anything structural. PETG, ABS or ASA will be a better fit. Snap fit isn't recommended either. I would make parts that need to be screwed together and use heat set inserts for assembly. It also makes very little to no sense to use 1KG spools, so make a 5KG spool holder so you're not changing spools multiple times per large print.

[@karsthotep]

Totally off topic. Where can I get an STL of that wall art above the printer??? :) :)

[@marktadlock5428]

You could buy the aluminum framing material to build a center framing

[@windowsmacgenius]

Would love to see the USB and screen connector moved to the top somehow

[@jim-i-am]

Where you mount filament shouldn't really be the driver of good feeding. If you mount a central 'hub' that makes the 90 degree bend and feeds the filament out the bottom, the problem become one of maintaining a healthy minimum bend radius (using Teflon tube?). Where you put your runout sensor depends on when you want to stop the print for a refill....and it's probably easier to create a couple of simple wire looms to relocate them than to modify the original location. (if you're moving it too far, you could just disconnect the sensors at the control board and route new cables from there). For fun you could throw a Chameleon3D inline...possibly mounted centrally as the runout sensor and filament aggregator? Whatever you do...the more crazy the more fun to watch. Thanks for the videos...I'm living vicariously while awaiting my new printer to arrive.

[@ForgeForget]

if i had mine, i would have had a solution preped for this. Wish they would ship the first batch. Look that the V1 engineering lowrider3 gantry. There are quite a possible number of attachment possibilities with a similar setup.

[@flashforum939]

Now all we need is 10 kg filament spools 😁

[@roguewolf0148]

Take the existing spool bracket and attach it to your pvc pipe. Then you shouldn’t have to enlarge the mounts you designed. Plus🤔 you might be able to attach the filament run out sensor to the original bracket

[@mattkeegan1359]

myself i would mount the filament spool reel from the ceiling in the center of the printer and solder some longer wires onto the filament run out sensor

[@SicariusLP]

Wher can i send you some pics what i did to put the filament to top of printen ?

[@josepharnold3617]

I would doubledown. Dual PVC pipes, one above the other. One for wires etc mounting stuff. Then model a filament spool stop that can keep the spool from dancing back and forth on the pipe and have some sort of extenstion for the runout sensor. I'm visualizing the Steam logo lol This would give room for future stuff too.

[@Skullyweb]

model a piece the size of the frame to mount to the pvc tubing. Use sheet metal screws to keep things from rotating and use the original spool holder.

[@i_am_not_a_pro_but_lets_try]

why not just get a length of 20x20 extrusion that will fit across the gap - then you can just use the existing hardware to mount everything to the printer?

[@Mark-cj9ju]

what software are you using to design?

[@jaroslavdulik1439]

Hi. Can I use AMS or MMU on it? Or is there some way to print in color?

[@Bad_Side13]

You're close. make a mount for the existing filament holder and run out sensor to sit on the PVC pipe.

[@aaronbaker1131]

The 1in X 1in X 6ft piece of Aluminum extrusion is $37 on Grainger just run it along the top then use the normal spool holder and runout sensor on it.

[@erickraus1256]

Why didn't you just switch the brackets around and have the closed end on the right side where the wire comes through and put the open end on the left side? That would have been a 10 second fix to the issue.

[@rusticagenerica]

Is it fair to say that this machine is GINORMOUS ??????????????