Can you 3D Print your own $2,500 Airless Basketball?

3D Printing our own Airless Basketballs! Putting a a variety of 3D Printable filaments to the test to see which once BUST or Bounce!
Make sure to checkout @3DPrintingNerd Airless Basketball Video • YOUR 3D Printed Airles...
3D Print an Airless Basketball for yourself!
3DXAV - makerworld.com/en/models/1416...
PartyLime - makerworld.com/en/models/2188...
Filaments I used
Overture Super PLA+ amzn.to/4a4i97f
Siraya Tech 85A TPU amzn.to/48Kqdci
Duramic 3D 95A TPU amzn.to/3PbZFd9
Ataraxia Flexible PLA amzn.to/43bHlGw
Elegoo Rapid PETG amzn.to/3TbMWIq
Elegoo PLA+ amzn.to/49NS6l1
Prusa Petg amzn.to/4c9L23Y
Bambu Lab 3D Printers - bit.ly/BambuLabUJ
Save 10% off 3DGloop with Code UncleJessy
www.3dgloop.com/
Help Support the channel & checkout my 3D Printer Profiles / unclejessy
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Some links provided might be affilate links
Thanks for watching!
#3DPrinting #AirlessBasketball #basketball

[@thenextlayer]

You gotta print it in PEBA. It has the highest energy return of any 3D printer filament. I did a video about it. Expensive, but it'll work way better than any other material.

[@MrMonkeyMan6133]

Hey im interested in seeing this video… what is the video called on you channel i guess i didn’t look hard enough cause i cant find it… thanks!

[@MTO_Brothers]

Wanna see the video too!

[@ratkingzzzzz]

@@MrMonkeyMan6133It’s his video abt different types of filaments, part 2 I think

[@drunken_physics]

yeah but who wants a $90 airless basketball when you can just go buy one for a fraction of the price? i suppose its better then 2000 bucks right?

[@samuelanidjar8851]

would PEBA S work I want to print this for myself

[@blizzyblake]

Could spray paint the gloop ball. Might wanna do like a 5,000 bounce test with it too 😂

[@UncleJessy]

I was thinking maybe 3D Gloop + plasti dip spray

[@coregeek]

@@UncleJessyWould be interesting to see if the platidip would hold up.

[@SmallDisturbedChild]

​@@UncleJessySubmerge the ball in 3d gloop, then stick it in an enclosure and spin the ball real fast like a centrifuge to remove the excess? Might not work, but might also be crazy enough to do so.

[@chrisdixon5241]

I had the same thought, gloop it then spray paint it black and you could have a winner!

[@laserfoxOMG]

@@UncleJessyu could gloop the pls + super one

[@Barbasnoo]

I was just as shocked as you when the gloop PLA one bounced so high! Did NOT see that coming.

[@ShawnChristopher10101]

I love the round robin thing you and Joel did...

[@UncleJessy]

🔥🔥🏀

[@mishelle6315]

An inadvertent ad for Overture PLA+ and 3D Gloop! hahahahaha

[@UncleJessy]

haha I wish they were paying me ... now I need to gloop the Super PLA+

[@bonovoxel7527]

Jess I'm going to try Overture CoPA, they call it Easy Nylon, as it will be my first nylon material ever. The thing with the gloop is an astounding result tho. What doesn't convince me about PLA of any kind is heat resistance. I think on an outdoor basket field in summer, on tarmac, absorbing energy and dragforce, it might get really close to a temperature where the PLA is at risk. Not much of melting but to alter its properties.@@UncleJessy

[@RegularOldDan]

This was so much fun! I really appreciate how many different materials you made use of - that was a LOT of printing there. Thanks for putting so much work into it!

[@Kori-ko]

I don't have context on the models, but if you're taking a model and scaling it different sizes in the slicer, the hexagonal lattice structure isn't staying constant to compensate and would explain a lot of why the smaller ones bounce better.

[@UncleJessy]

Agreed. Tighter ball / potentially stronger vs the big one

[@attack125]

do you understand how scale works?

[@attack125]

@@UncleJessy it's just the material strenght. the bigger ball is simply able to push the fillaments past their maximum stress and they break. the whole point of scale is that as far as shape goes. (so the structure the op was talking about) stays EXACTLY proportional. what you are not scaling along with it though. is the molucules and their bonds inside of the material itself. since you are not a mad scientist with a shrink ray. wich means when scaling down you are essentially changing the material propperties. and not the structure. (if you were to scale your perspective down along with the ball then everything remains the same but the material gets stronger)

[@artsy_dragon_creations]

The broken pieces could totally be used for a cyberpunk or apocalypse armor cosplay!

[@BBLX1C]

Oohhhh my god, thank you, thank you just thank you for that video! I love it, I really need to try it

[@bonovoxel7527]

I was looking for this content exactly! I printed it for test in PETG, it bounced quite good those 10 bounces before cracking. I started from 20cm high and started bouncing higher and higher until at like 60 cm and a dozen bounces it cracked as I expected. Now I'm going for a functional one!

[@jfran4840]

Gloop = Flubber

[@kickpunched]

This vids so dope. Super fun to see how those all held up. Thanks again Uncle!

[@julianlema8493]

Woah one of my models spotted on a Uncle jessy video! (the Retro Ball one, Filete3D) For my part, I can say that I have obtained good results making even smaller copies (which began as a way to test materials quickly) and it triggered the idea that for the materials available in FDM the most appropriate thing to print and achieve is a tennis ball (from there the airless tennis ball 1.1). I am currently developing variants that accommodate the available materials such as TPU 95a, PLA Flex, adjusting the width of the walls and size of the hexagons and we are achieving great results! Either way, as usual, this is a great summary video of a maker experience. Thank you Jessy🙌

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

Loved this video. Such a fun video to watch. Joel's showed up 1st on my feed. So came here from there. The reason the TPU doesn't bounce as much is the same reason a matress in a gym doesn't let you bounce much when you fall on it. The material properties absorbs the impact, dispersing the energy upwards as the impact prgresses. It folds in on itself. So most of the energy is gone. Stiffness stores the energy for the bounce back. reason the PLA could bounce, sortoff. But the downside is stress fractures caused by storing all that energy in an unforgiving material. Just basic impact science. I will be posting this on Joel's side aswell.

[@UncleJessy]

heck yeah! Glad you made it over and saw his. Thanks for the extra details. Love the feel of the TPU/FlexPLA prints but obviously would prefer they bounced ;)

[@mattenglish]

Your video isn't goofy at all. It's super helpful! Thank you!

[@stanleyfrederick5508]

it is amazing to see the Airless Basketball works

[@GH-nk1eu]

I fucking love Jesse. He has been my go-to for printing since starting this hobby. Then sometimes it's just a dude smashing stuff on his floor. Love it. Keep rocking brother.

[@coreyh3994]

Firmness and rubberiness are going to be important, but your *layer adhesion* is going to be most important. That's why the gloop helped so much. The ones that cracked all cracked on layer lines i'm sure. And the single level ones are definitely going to crack before the dual layer lattice ones. That dual layer is doing a LOT to support spreading out the impact over a larger area. So Max out layer adhesion in whatever way you can, try and make the layer structure more interwoven (prob impossible), and then just find the right level of bounce. BUt yeah, thinning out the gloop and using a spray to put it on is going to help a lot as well.

[@attack125]

plasticity. rubberiness is not a word.

[@K3NnY_G]

I have a feeling the gloop along with fusing the layer lines also annealed the print to reduce internal stress. In that I'd like to see if annealing the print helps makes it not just shatter right away.

[@philippeholthuizen]

I love how much fun you’re having with breaking the initial balls 😆

[@ResinForge]

Love the idea for the Gloopsketball 😂 Amazing video as always Uncle Jessy

[@TwoMooseDesign]

I was totally working on a video very similar to this, then I saw you on instagram and I was like dang it! 😆 I’m so intrigued with the different filaments and “durability”

[@TrueNinjafrog]

you should still go ahead! more plastics testing and configs, more data to learn from!

[@UncleJessy]

Make yours!!! I want to see others take on these

[@krollmond7544]

Wow that overture PLA is a must get

[@UncleJessy]

It worked really well

[@richc9890]

I love Duramic filament from what I've used from them. Do any of the models have internal cross support? perhaps with the TPU 95A that would allow them to bounce.

[@xgeko2]

Is it possible to put the 3d gloop in a spray gun and very lightly spray it on so you don't have all the excess? maybe there is even a slight thining agent it can be cut with to make it easier to apply in thin layers?

[@asth3tique]

loved this video, really great.

[@alanlf1394]

i would definitly try one of those weird glass fiber/tpu filament, pretty bouncy material,absorb shock well and but don't dissipate it quite much

[@TheFilamentFrontier]

I used carbon fiber pa12. 50% infill with the one with the lattice structure. Try it for yourself won't spoil it for you

[@UncleJessy]

I have a few carbon fiber blends i want to try.

[@RockieOnly]

Please spoil us, I want to know but that kind of filament is so expensive.

[@bonovoxel7527]

Isn't it way lighter than it has to be, without being 100%infill? It should be afaik around 625g...

[@Dr.Ratio69]

I’m impressed with the speed you upload the video. I’m thinking about ASA, since it is lighter so it might bounce higher.

[@UncleJessy]

Was a late night of editing to get this out today but sooo much fun to shoot. Asa might be a good option as well

[@ChaosSaotome]

@@UncleJessywould Nylon also be a possible material choice?

[@Lilrockerdude13]

Curious if they are placing additional layers of a coating like the Gloop ball but in a more "orderly controlled" process? Really want to print one out now😅

[@getbent57]

Awesome, had know idea there was flexible PLA. Have to put that on my shopping list.

[@UncleJessy]

Super easy to print with as well. A bit firmer than tpu

[@yoanndavid2725]

It will broke too i printed a full size on flex pla ând it broken first training but work for dribling

[@celestewilliams5681]

i feel like i wanna try vapor smoothed abs for this! like the gloop, but a more even and easy way to melt the layers together

[@inkedtrooper4133]

Getting my overture pla+ tomorrow can’t wait to print it 🙌🏻 but which settings did you use?i was thinking 100% infill and 3 walls (i‘ll scale the model to 50%)

[@SirLANsalot]

ABS and ASA have better impact resistance, as that is what you need is some high impact PLA or something. The ball needs to be somewhat rigid. Think on how a basketball works in that manner, it pretty hard when you feel it but it can deform slightly to bounce back up.

[@calvinmusquez9162]

I’d be curious to see how an ABS filament would fare with this. It’s a little more flexible and rigid than PLA so should in theory deform and spring back a bit more without breaking. Not sure if it really would hold up to much abuse though. For this sort of thing you need a material that’s stiff enough to overcome the lack of internal air pressure but not so stiff that it cracks and breaks. It’s a fine line to ride and idk if there’s a filament out there at the consumer level that really fits the bill. It’s kind of pricey, but maybe MatterHackers Pro Flex filament would be the right flexible-rigid ratio.

[@metarts]

Thx 🙏 bin auf mehr Videos davon gespannt 🤩

[@danielsetzer3766]

Carbon TPU is what you want. Sounds counter intuitive but it produces something close to tire rubber. It's extremely bouncy.

[@ray24051]

$2,500 for a ball is ridiculous Lol.

[@litronclips]

Exactly😂

[@mateoalollari5392]

Bro u could buy a car

[@Wentto714]

@@mateoalollari5392you sure about that

[@stumblairo3721]

The ball will be like 5 dollars, the investigation costed 2500 dollars

[@Vipaz_ai]

@@Wentto714yes you can

[@LeviNeely]

I believe the smaller spheres bounce better because the smaller impact point and less ability to flex back into the center of the ball if that makes sense? I bet if you could use that overture pla+ with a ball model that has center structure it might work better! This is a great test though and I’m glad someone did it!!

[@RiderManX0]

You could use the broken halves as candy dishes

[@UncleJessy]

Ohhh thats a pretty good idea

[@KewaiiGamer]

@@UncleJessy it would look nice to place fruit but idk if you want since it's not really that safe :/

[@Maleboligia]

Ordered a roll of the flexible Overture PLA in orange just now, I am gonna be at a Maker Faire in May no way this will not catch people's attention:) Thank you for the great video and the funny tests, I was very shocked by the gloop ball. Will also be trying that with Overture but painted on.

[@ItsPlebble]

The 3dgloop seemed to make it bounce so much better

[@AlAmantea]

Use the broken ones (or print 1/2 balls) as chip trays for use during game parties!

[@ryanlandry8214]

I commented to 3D Printing Nerd that SpiderMaker SpiderFlex TPE (shore 75A-80A) bounces very well. My friend was trying to print RC car tires and this stuff bounced like a bouncy ball. You tested some really interesting filaments to add to my wishlist. Thanks! 👍

[@attack125]

an this comment shows the world you are not an engineer. the bouncyness of this design comes from the structure. using the flexible fillament that's even softer than ninjaflex. (seriously 75A is really soft) will simply just result in dampning the function of design. and it would bounce better with a diffrent design, such as a solid ball.

[@attack125]

and yes. as i get to 08:15 my point gets proven with the flexible pla.

[@mrnlce7939]

You could use the failures as terrain pieces for a bees based alien diorama or war gaming set pieces. Great video. Keep up the good work.

[@tomohalloran5217]

That is awesome great video

[@rodrigotm1461]

So satisfiying seen 3d printed basketballs break

[@woodbites]

Flashforge Flex PLA bounces very well

[@BillyBobBrockali69]

Try TPE, PC, and Nylon. I recommend using an enclosure if you don't have one also you could try mixing thermoplastic polymers with foaming agents or additives that create gas bubbles when heated, resulting in a cellular structure similar to closed-cell foam. While there are some experimental filaments and techniques available, I can't recall where I saw them, but they helped me a lot with some projects similar to this.

[@thefrenchican23]

That was an awesome video! Fun experiments

[@VelocityErve]

You could use the orange one that broke in half and strengthen it with resin so you could use it as like a chip bowl or popcorn bowl

[@herodaysaver9032]

For the flex pla: turn the temperature up to around 210-220 (or near whatever the max temp is for your brand), slow down your print by about 20% (so 80% speed of what you print pla at). In my experience it dosen't like to print big overhangs with these settings but comes out way cleaner.

[@attack125]

it's almost as if more flexible fillaments need to be printed at slower speeds. . . if only this was readely available information that has basicly been common knowledge for the past several years. .... oh wait.

[@fusionfigs]

the glooped version might just be the trick to it. nicely done

[@S.A.S.H.]

The video is worth it just for your reactions to each ball.

[@3dPrintedTradingPost]

Hey Jessy, I am a fan of you channel keep up the good work. I have a question for you. Would you recommend the Neptune 4 printers or the bambu a1. I'm looking for overall speed, quality, ease of use, and best bang for the buck. Overall what do you think?

[@Dubble_Bubble40]

Hi there! I just picked up some of the Ataraxia Flexible PLA and I'm curious what settings you used on slicing? I've already made one before watching this video at 50% scale with 2% infill with regular PLA. I appreciate any info, thanks!

[@littlebackwards91]

That orange ball that split right in half after bouncing off the ceiling, first thought was to design a small 3 legged holder for it and have it as a decorative bowl to fill with whatever your heart desires.

[@dubrpanda1636]

What nozzle size were you using?

[@coolbeardeddragon1157]

The broken parts can be used to create exploding ball art! It'll look really cool!

[@vidsurfer0725]

U can use some of the broken ones that didn't shatter just split, as strainers for anything that isn't food. Or maybe a plant pot for any of the plants that have very dense roots and will not crumble dirt. Is there a way to get a cleaner result at all from the 3D Gloop?

[@johnnyrocko7105]

By the way TPU as you know (or maybe not🤷‍♂️) comes in different strengths using letter coordinating after the number A-D with D being the strongest and most rigid form of TPU

[@lyaxe9691]

just found your channel and im wanting to get into 3d printing just making props and masks from different movies what 3d printer would you recommend

[@chatroux399]

I think you have to print it in TPE, if you want a durable with a good bounce effect

[@kamiegarczynski8426]

with the flexible pla did you use a dryer before printing

[@Cyphco]

I'd love to see a multi material print between the Flexible PLA on the Outside and the internal lattice in PLA tough or something more rigid

[@claws61821]

Jessy, I had an idea as I started to watch this, because I remember last year I saw an interview where players said these were tearing up their hands. What if we keep the lattice structure for shape and support but encase it in a micro-porous skin? It still wouldn't be as smooth as the old shaven leather, but could that be done well with either FDM or desktop resin?

[@newzerozeroone]

Ataraxia in gloop seems like it would be the perfect combo to me.

[@GeedsGarage]

I was trying with some Sainsmart GTS PLA HF Flexible, and it worked a bit and then would crack. I also had issues with the roll actually rotating on its mount, when feeding the filament into the printer. Never had an issue with regular PLA, ABS, or PETG. Think it would just get to the point of stretching too much.

[@HackMonkey]

Of course the obvious next step is Gloop the Overture Super PLA! Then Various Nylons. COEX has some really tough 30D to 60D TPE that would be very interesting to see in action! Ninjatek Armadillo, which is more in line with PETG.

[@UncleJessy]

100% tetsing the glooped Super PLA. Will take a look into those other filaments

[@undeadlurchgaming1383]

Tpu outershell for the flex/bounce, with pla/abs/petg/pc innershell for rigidity. (petg may not be best because of how easy it broke) There should be some combination that will replicate close enough to pass as a basketball.

[@Cutter1617]

broken pieces could be kind of cool lampshades for the larger ones, catch-all dish for keys or w.e, candy dish or even a soap dish.

[@Cereal_Killr]

Duramic is great filament! I use it all the time. That and Elegoo are some of my favorites! Cool video...now I know what I'm gonna try n print here soon lol.

[@AtomicBleach]

3DandTeePrinting just did a video on this. They found that FlashForge PLA Flex made for a very excellent bouncing ball! Even had that basketball bounce sound!

[@flamedphoenix84]

If you watched the Wilson ball get created. They dip them all with some protection and I believe that you should try rubber filament and do both without Gloop and with Gloop

[@olahf8490]

According to a certain company the material is a chopped carbon fiber and tpu material. It was sls printed of course but if you can find a Cf-tpu filament it might get you close to the real deal. I handled the black prototype of the Wilson ball a few days again and its crazy how close to a real basketball it feels.

[@chrism95]

If possible, print with the soft pla as the exterior shell and the pla+ that didnt break as an internal shell I think you will get similar results as you did with the gloop

[@spencerthorp]

This is so fun! Please try ninjatek armadillo tpu, and a nylon. Maybe glass fiber nylon or carbon fiber nylon. I’d love to see how those compare.

[@kirill2525]

i mean, you should probably mix flliments so they work to each others strengths, or maybe add internal supports with other materials. the official balls probably have their own material they made and they may just be dipping them in something too

[@705rexx]

I started applying 3d gloop to the inside of the ball as it was printing and will do the same to the outside once completed

[@Mitch3D]

Nylon filament or CF-PA6 would be interesting to see since nylon is very flexible and tough but harder to print. Also the porous foaming filaments that would make it really light and soft.

[@MultiCudla]

Ive made recently small ball from PLA plus that bounces well at home floor 😅

[@RobertLockhartMakesGames]

Use the broken pieces to make a lampshade. I bet it will throw some really cool patterns on the walls!

[@jadus2198]

SBC might work. You can print SBC with the same profile as PETG in my experience but it is a little more flexible and break resistant. SBC is used for blister packages. I think "Glass" something (is it glass-flex?) filament is the same material. (Styrene Butadiene co-polymer)

[@colinmetzger6755]

Printing them from nylon could work. Stay away from any glass or carbon filled ones and keep with a "pure" PA. I've been very impressed by how well polymaker CoPA prints after some projects needing nylon at work.

[@wfpelletier4348]

5:09 HOLY $H!!T !!!! CONGRATULATIONS JESSY!!!!!

[@breadsyt9975]

Maybe you could print it with ABS, then acetone smooth it to help bind the layers like you did with the 3D Gloop. Not sure how well it would work, but it's worth a shot (pun intended) ;)

[@rerun9539]

It needs a lattice structure from resin printing to get a bounce like that. But for FDM I'd try fiberflex 30D

[@dariussteele3843]

Try this on the Prusa XL... with nylon PA6 internal and TPU 95A external wall...

[@Luke-Barrett]

I think if there was a few outside parameter in one of the harder filaments and the inside layers was with a soft tpu might keep it from breaking and give it some bounce.

[@Kennymedia-rw1jq]

Would like to see you trying to dip the tpu ones in epoxy resin. I think will bounce better as it gets a bit tougher.

[@DextarsLaboratory]

What were your Overture Super PLA+ settings for the small one? That was the double lattice one correct? I printed a couple of them and they both failed and cracked instantly with the V2 of the aireless but I'd really love to get some to work. I also ordered a roll of the SPLA+ because of that IG video and I've been disappointed.

[@nakleh]

I printed a 75% size version (177mm) in Overture Super PLA+ and it definitely won't bounce. (I printed the PartyLime double lattice one, Gen10). It might bounce off the floor like a motorcycle helmet would, but not like a ball.

[@adicahya]

In a year or so, people will figure it out how to print a functional basket ball at home. And it will be cheaper that Wilson's one... What a great time we live in 😊

[@Vandel212]

That gloop one impressed the heck out of me. Perhaps rather than trying blow the gloop out, get a box and spin it really fast inside of it to let the centripetal force eject the excess gloop out.

[@3DHP]

Great Video Uncle Jessy. Soccer ball time.

[@ajaychabai8106]

I subscribed to see more basketballs tested

[@UncleJessy]

Already printing more :)

[@Bafflinghat217]

Some of those would make awesome dodge balls

[@herbveitenhans3285]

Would a printed ball with round holes vs hexagons maintain a better shape when bounced?

[@UncleJessy]

I'm not sure but im guessing the mad scientists who designed the wilson ball tested out a variety of shapes

[@98f5]

I have also printed a ton of these balls lol. I tested every material!

[@MrMonkeyMan6133]

You should try putting the 3d gloop on the super pla + ball

[@BroSnipes]

What if you print it with 2 shells inner is the overture pla and outside Layer is flexible pla i think that could work