Are These Cars DISPOSABLE? (Hyundai/Kia GDI Burning OIL - MISFIRE, Low Power)

This 2017 Kia Cadenza V6 GDI is burning MASSIVE amounts of OIL...
1 Quart every 250 miles, according to the customer!!
Only 118k miles on the odometer.
He says recently it QUIT RUNNING altogether, requiring all of the spark plugs to be replaced.
Check Engine light is still ON, and it's still not running 100%.
Let's diagnose any remaining issues, and see if this Kia has any life left in the engine...
2023 Upgrade LAUNCH X431 PRO3S+:
www.amazon.com/dp/B092894STV?...
Enjoy!
Ivan

[@jeremypilot1015]

What's horrible is Hyundai in the early 2000s had a halfway decent car. (Drove a manual Elantra to 199,000 no issues ever) They switched to GDI and the engines are junk.

[@diodadioda]

earlier engines were Mitsubishi licenses. I have a Kia Amanti with an old Mitsu 3.5 v6 engine. There is a timing belt and the only problem is weak bushings. But if you take care of the oil and good cooling, it will last a long time

[@ischmidt]

Yeah. They were terrible in the 90s, pretty good in the 2000s, and then trash again when the GDI engines came out.

[@Chris-L-sr]

Hahaha I have a 2011 Elantra with 160,000 trouble Free miles,

[@jabjab12]

Gdi sucks

[@midwestfarm757]

@@Chris-L-sr Not all of those are GDI for 2011.

[@shanestrains2849]

I've worked on a few kias lately ( Problems unrelated to engine ) and I've made it a tradition to pop the dipstick and view the diesel level blowby 😄

[@phprofYT]

Naw. That's clean compared to my diesel oil. I have 5 gallons if you need some. :)

[@GreyRockOne]

Bad news, It's a Kia, good news, no emission inspection in Virginia.. I live here. Nice work Ivan

[@Thisoldhiker]

Northern Virginia has emissions inspection, including Stafford and Loudoun counties.

[@Ram14250]

Frequent oil changes (less then 5,000miles) on a direct injected engine is the best you can do. It may of helped this vehicle last longer. 10K oil changes like Kia/Hyundai owners like to do, assumes junking the car around 100K.

[@stevenweiss2148]

So do toyota owners..maybe worse

[@big0bad0brad]

Yeah if you want 10K mile changes to work, get a naturally aspirated mazda and drive a lot of highway. It's not a direct injected thing, it's a shit engine thing.

[@waterloo123100]

@@big0bad0bradNo all direct injection engines are having this problem. Hyundai is having them the worst

[@bestage9429]

There was a great video by The Car Care Nut where a 2015 Toyota Camry had to have its engine rebuilt because of the owner following the least frequent oil change intervals recommended by the car manufacturer.

[@big0bad0brad]

The way to tell is by sending the oil in to a lab to be tested for performance and dissolved metals. Skyactiv engines don't seem to have... whatever it is, the hot spots or blowby characteristics or whatever... that wrecks oil faster. It's not a question of "if", but "why". The "if" has been proven by the lab.

[@hxc7273]

Always good to communicate with the customer. “Your check engine light WILL come on. That’s my personal money-back guarantee.”😂

[@leedress2187]

the designer of "low tension oil rings" should be held accountable. they designed these to increase fuel mileage, but if the oil is not changed every 5K they will carbon up and leak. I went through hell with my daughter's Hyundai. Luckily i had receipts for oil changes and Hyundai replaced the motor under warranty. the earlier Hyundai / Kia motors were rock solid until they made this change. I think quite a few manufacturers changed to these oil rings in the 2010s.

[@LeverPhile]

Thank the EPA.

[@big0bad0brad]

There were problems with head bolt threads in the aluminum block failing on the older 6 cyls - Hyundai has not had a great record the last couple decades. Fixing that problem is possible but it's not real fun and it sort of leaves you with questions, again, but for a different reason, about the rings being screwed up.

[@LuckyWerewolf-yk6wo]

Low pressure rings are due to emulsions not mpg

[@big0bad0brad]

@@LuckyWerewolf-yk6wo Want to try again? Emulsions?

[@beezlebub3955]

I had a 2007 Sonata with the 4 cylinder, great car, loved it. But it consumed oil, didn’t smoke didn’t leak, 1 quart ish per 1k miles, but it recently upped that and spun rods at 1500 miles from a fresh oil change, didn’t drive it hard, but it was Christmas time and I was working a lot so I didn’t check it. Now I’m in an ES330 and I love it

[@dustcommander100]

Switching to heavier oil completely stopped the excessive oil burning in the wife's 2007 Camry. I could not believe the difference!

[@NVRAMboi]

Wow.

[@user-yk4oq4wz4d]

what oil do u use now

[@mechboy5954]

You’re now burning excessive gas than the engine was designed to. It’s a pick your piston kinda thing, burn excessive oil or burn excessive gas

[@carlt6932]

Did you go to 10w30? Syn blend or full synthetic?

[@dustcommander100]

@@carlt6932 I hate to admit it, but I forgot whether it was 10W30 or 10W40 I switched to. I just changed the oil and used 10W30, so I will be keeping a close eye on the oil level. Seems like lately, all I can find is a synthetic blend, and I use that. I would prefer non-synthetic, since I change oil at 4000 miles. I normally pick up oil at Walmart, and they almost NEVER have the same weight and blend in Castrol. At 204,000 miles, I just get whatever brand and blend they have in the weight I'm looking for. I take care of 6 vehicles in my family.

[@tonyb1968]

7,500 to 10,000 mi oil change intervals recommended by manufacturers and light tension piston rings. No surprise we're seeing these failures. In attempt to squeeze more mpg and reduce emissions we're burning far more oil and filling scrap yards with late model cars. Hopefully Ivan tests the miracle cure treatment! Спасибо Иван

[@cclngthr]

Yep. Toyota did this with the late 90s Corolla engine. If you are not anal on maintenance you get burning oil

[@user-xk4vt9ye8j]

Kia recently changed their OCI to 3750 miles.

[@keshmo12]

@@user-xk4vt9ye8jdidn't know that. We got a new kia engine under warranty and they recommended 3k mile changes...which we're doing cause it's a new engine but it's overkill and the oil comes out looking good ever time.

[@user-xk4vt9ye8j]

@@keshmo12 I’d rather change it too often than too late. Just keep your receipts.

[@krisk1547]

In Canada 21 santa fe calls for full synthetic oil change every 6000km. That's like 4000 miles. I had no issues with mine so far but i won't buy Hyundai again. I do not like plastic engines and I expect car to last 200k miles otherwise I would have to buy new every 5 years

[@kennedysgarage3281]

Hi Ivan, I really liked your bonus footage on extended drive cycles after repair. We specialise in Mazda Skyactive & like you I carry out these drive cycles before returning it to the customer. I’m always stating in on my channel so guys don’t get caught on them 🤷🏼‍♂️🤷🏼‍♂️ Very thorough workmanship 💪💪

[@paulmoffat9306]

I had a '74 Pinto Wagon, that developed an oil leak in the head gasket into #4 cylinder (pressure oil feed to cam). When I floored the engine, it laid down a smoke screen that would do a WW2 destroyer proud! One top end job later, all was well and I had an increase in power, due to the valve job. Had the car for 13 years, 210,000 miles until it died from body rust.

[@Paramount531]

I had a 74 Pinto wagon. It was in very nice shape but someone put a 2 liter engine in it to replace the stock 2.3. It smoked off of idle. The hard rubber valve guide seals were bad and who knows how bad the valve guides could have been? I swapped the head with a Ford rebuilt, a year later the same problem occurred. This time I left the head in place and swapped in some nylon valve seals. They worked great for years! That was a very tough little car.

[@NVRAMboi]

@@Paramount531 Pinto stories are great!

[@richardcranium5839]

2.0 and 2.3 non turbo were dang near bullet proof. had several 1st generation capris with that engine. rebuilt one with stock parts just ported and polished the head and intake skewed the cam timing and played with the tune. 33mpg all day long in city or on road with plenty of poop to get out of its own way. early models with solid lifters used oil sqirt rail for cam lube. you had to keep the oil clean to keep from plugging them up.

[@lamarcutts2511]

My First Car Was A 72 Pinto 2 Door Hatchback. Not Sure The Size Motor But That Manual Tranny Could Ride For 2 Weeks At A Time On Gas. Changed The Oil Every 3000 Miles Well Built Car Tough As An Anvil....😊😊😊😊😊

[@ericligotke3542]

Wow. I had a 72 pinto coupe. It got so bad I remember driving through a large parking lot. When I looked behind me there was a giant grayish cloud maybe 30 feet high enveloping the parking lot. I could see people just stopping and watching me drive by with very shocked looks on their faces. Guess it’s better it died, then me dying by getting hit from behind! 🚙

[@farmermiyagi1338]

Yessir. Just had a Kia Soul in here Monday. Burning oil and the cat was so plugged up that it actually pegged my low pressure gauge past 10 psi at the O2 sensor. It had 1.5 at idle then over 9 psi at 3k rpm. On the upside Ivan, I did my diag. and got paid, and sent him to the exhaust shop. ;)

[@rihovaher]

Hello big SECRET! The lambda sensor Boch was bought new in the store, before installing it on my car I sprayed silicone with moisture control on the connector, after that after a few days the lambda stopped working, there was no lambda activity, such an error code, I was desperate. I didn't sleep for several nights. Then I made a mini turning the disk with a milling cutter to a small slot 3 cm above the nozzle, I connected a multimeter to the ground and heated the sensor with a gas probe, the multimeter showed 0...800 mv when moving the gas flame, I was surprised! I put it on the car and checked it, following the schedule, everything worked. My conclusion is that the lambda can go through the wire connector to the comparison to the oxygen, but I blocked the comparison to the air access sensor with silicone spray, tell this to other mechanics, maybe someone needs this knowledge!

[@ferrumignis]

@@rihovaher You must never use any silicone products on oxygen sensors, it can ruin the the sensing element inside. This is why "sensor safe" sealants exist.

[@farmermiyagi1338]

@@rihovaher That's actually not a secret. Don't use silicone spray on O2 sensors.

[@AndyTraver-iq5lx]

I think they sprayed it on the connector not the sensor?@@farmermiyagi1338

[@DavenHiskey]

@@rihovaher Dont ever ever eva eva eva use silicone spray on..the um..sensor..yea 🎅

[@philjerome9795]

I've had reasonable success with a 2015 Kia Forte that was consuming a quart every 200 miles. It had approximately 60,000 miles when the problem started. My first attempt was a Liqui Moly flush, followed by fresh 5w 30 high mileage oil and a can of Restore. That showed very little, if any improvement. After a couple of months, I used Chemtrol B-12 in each cylinder. I roughly followed the procedure in the Hyundai Kia TSB. I removed all four spark plugs and turned the crank so that each piston was at the half way position. I poured approximately 4 ozs of B-12 into each cylinder and let it sit for 24 hours. By then most of the B-12 had passed into the crank case. I then added another four ozs to one cylinder at a time. By hooking up my compression test adapter, and hooking up to compressed air, I bared the crank until the valves were closed on each cylinder. You have to hold onto the breaker bar at this point, because the compressed air will push the engine and you don't want the breaker bar to flip around. By doing this, it will force the B-12 past the rings. After pushing all of the B-12 out of the cylinders, I then cranked the engine with the plugs out to remove any remaining liquid. Fresh oil and filter, re-installed the plugs and the oil consumption is vastly improved, although it still burns a quart approximately every thousand miles.

[@tonyb1968]

Nice! I'll have to try that 👍🏻

[@maxrx7]

that;-'s still dumb, there is no magic chemicals or liquids, they make trash cars

[@kinglangren]

I did a similar thing to my Camry. Was burning 1 qt. Per 500 miles. Put b-12 and marvel mystery oil on top of pistons for 24 hrs. Oil consumption went to 1 qt every 1500 miles.

[@philjerome9795]

DIY Dave did a series of You Tube videos on this with a Corolla. @@kinglangren

[@nordicpride9708]

Why not just connect shop air via plug adapter? No reason to wear out the starter or break you arm when that breaker bar pimp slaps you with brute force. b-12 is great stuff but I’ve found BG 109 in the crankcase does a much better job of cleaning the rings.

10w30 is only thicker in cold. You need 10w40 to be thicker in warm. BTW There are some cases when the snake oils can free up the carbon buildup in the piston rings, but usually it is too late when it is tried.

[@OtisFlint]

Exactly, that 10W30 isn't going to do a thing. I would have thrown 15W50 in it...keep it on life support for a bit, because the engine is junk.

[@chekelley6861]

Yep. The 10 is for cold starts

[@thatsonebadhatharry8610]

I have a 2015 Volvo 2.0l Direct Injection Turbo. Don't know at what mileage the oil consumption issue started as I was not the original owner but the car had 82k on it when I bought it. I was immediately rewarded with having only driven the car 400mi. when the low oil light came on. These cars have no dip stick so it tells you when you are a quart low. Dumb me for not doing my research before buying. Anywho I decided to try the Marvel Mystery snake Oil trick. It took a couple of quarts and about 1500mi before the oil consumption started to slow down. I changed the oil and filter at about 3000mi and continued to run some MMsO in it. All I can say is it work to a point. I have been averaging about 1500mi per quart which is much better than 400mi per quart. It's not perfect but it sure beets replacing the engine or just the rings for that matter.

[@robertwhite9898]

@@OtisFlintI agree there engines are Pittfull

[@spol1622]

"10w30 is only thicker in cold." No; the most important characteristic of lubricating oil is viscosity. Viscosity is, on basic level, the ability to flow. Lubricating oils are tested for viscosity. These tests are conducted at the same temperature, where oil has to flow through the orifice of certain (the same) size. So, while the oil meant for warmer climates will get thicker at the temperatures that are below their normal work range, perhaps, different oil grade should be used for such conditions. The goal in picking the right oil is to not exceed its normal temperature range (normal working temperature for the machinery has to match the working temperature of the oil), so it can keep all its lubricating properties intact (ex. oil that is to hot will get thinner and will not lubricate as well as it should.) Second most important consideration when picking up particular oil grade is fitment (clearances) of the parts that are being lubricated; ex. thinner oils will flow easier into more tight spaces and will cool parts faster than thicker oils.

[@jdesaavedra0432]

I had good results with BG EPR on a 2003 Camry that was smoking on cold start. Also my 190,000 mile 2006 Highlander produced a lot of carbon-blackened drain oil and now runs even smoother than before and now the very moderate oil consumption (quart in 5,000 miles under heavy use) is gone.

[@hpelisr]

That was a great analysis Ivan, it was good to hear you pointed out the pending code and how it takes multiple runs to complete the procedure.

[@1337penguinman]

I'm a Hyundai dealer tech. We actually have a system where we have a chemical we pour on top of the pistons through the spark plug holes. There's a whole procedure and special tool involved but it works I'd say probably about 50% of the time. Our spec is less than a quart every 1000 miles.

[@nld0947]

Piston soak with Berryman B12 in the Toyota 2AZ-FE was a miracle for me. It reduced the oil burning from 2 quarts every 1,000 miles to less than 1/3 quart every 1,000 miles.

[@zzman5306]

Piston soaks usually make the biggest difference

[@davidlee950]

Great diagnosis and repair, Ivan. Superb customer relations using information and recommendations as well as bi-directional communication regarding fuel/ oil consumption and possible oil treatment to reduce oil burning. Kia and Hyundai vehicle owners are rare here in Japan.

[@DM-el3rq]

Makes me glad I didn't stay with hyundai. I bought a sante fe and an accent back in 2007. I sold them in 2020 both having over 200,000 miles with no maintenance other than oil changes and tune ups including timing belts. I sold them to a person I know and they are still being driven daily. We were going to buy another new sante fe but didn't want a four cylinder engine so we didn't get one. Sounds like they aren't what they were. Love you videos Ivan, thanks for the great content.👍

[@davidclapham1066]

Your level of honesty and integrity is an example to us all. I sincerely hope those not quite so inclined may come to see the value and importance of these essential virtues - Thank you

[@bigkoolaidman123]

FINALLY a video on the Cadenza! I have a 2018 with 40k and I've been waiting to see some/any video by the youtubers I watch (even if it's a grim glimpse of the future lol)

[@AR-il9gk]

I got the 2017 like the video bought with 3000 miles. I'm tech and i only do 3k miles oil changes and a induction cleaner every other oil change. No engine issues so far. Only issue i had was both cv axle outer boots started leaking and i was out of "2nd owner warranty" at 6yrs..i also added a oil catch can and it does catch a fair amount of oil but thats normal

[@mystaclean5129]

This is ancient history but I want to relate the story. The woman I was dating who later became my wife had a mid-eighties Oldsmobie Cutless. In giving the underhood area a quick look over, I saw that the air cleaner housing (remember the old metal round ones?) had a pool of oil in it and naturally, the air filter was soaked. I mopped up the oil and changed the filter and she remarked how much better the car was running. At a later date I took a look to find that there was oil again pooled in the filter housing. Less, but still present. I will never remember the name of the product as it was 35 years ago, but the product said that it would free up stuck piston rings among other wonderful things. (yeah, right...) Figuring that I had nothing to lose except the price of the product, I added it to the oil after cleaning the filter housing out and replacing the filter again. It worked! No oil whatsoever! She had bought the car used and she remarked that it had never run so good. No surprise, the rings were actually able to do their job. Interestingly, she had bought the car on the recommendation of a prior boyfriend. The boyfriend owned his own automotive repair shop. I'm sure the product is not made anymore so the fact that I can't remember it is no loss.

[@irocanroll]

May have been wynn's...my dad liked that!

[@billziegmond4943]

Great video my friend. Now I am going to take you back one I was a young man. GM tech bulletin advised for stuck rings the following. 2 table spoons of Marvel Mystery Oil per cylinder. Leave them soak a minimum of 24 hrs. My Dad did it to his 1972 Buick Electra 225. It worked like a charm.

[@kenc3288]

I had good success with my 2011 Hyundai i45, (4 cylinder 2.5 litre) , ever really used oil, changed oil regularly, every 10,000km, sold it at 160,000km, I must have been lucky based on the issues posted here. Cheers from Australia 🇳🇿🇳🇿

[@sebastiaanfellinga4413]

Thankss Ivan. you made my day with your new video !

[@aranhaydar9195]

Keep us updated on your experience ivan, I've used DPF cleaners in the past & they're really effective with desolving carbon. I poured the cleaner through the spark plug hole until it was filled up (make sure that the valves are closed) i then waited for 3 hours & then evacuated the cylinder using a vacuum pump. You can then flush with kerosene or diesel to get rid of any leftover carbon chunks in the cylinder. The product i used was made by GAT. I've also used an engine flush product from totachi. That one works similar to what you bought, only mine was designed to be used instead of engine oil for half an hour, not with engine oil like yours 🙃

[@MadmanJimbo]

My 2018 Kia GDI was consuming a ton of oil, and the valve cover gaskets were completely cracked around the spark plug holes. Changed the gasket and no oil consumption for the last 3000. Parts guy at the Kia dealership told me that the valve cover gaskets are a maintenance item on these engines. I couldn’t believe it. But they are cheap. So I will watch for oil in the plug holes.

[@franciscogomez2565]

The oil consumption he is talking about is in the compression chamber oil is getting passed the rings

[@MadmanJimbo]

@@franciscogomez2565 the same oil consumption happens in the compression chamber when oil leaks down around the plug threads . Its a GDI. Maybe you don’t understand the engineering but the plug goes through the top of the valve cover and the cover is sealed around them. Rubber rings. Trust me. Its most of the issue.

[@thebigmacd]

​​@@MadmanJimbooil in the spark plug holes will just pool there, there's no way for it to go anywhere. Doesn't make sense. Spark plugs seal in cylinder pressure. No way oil is going to leak past the compression washer, through the threads, and into the cylinder.

[@MadmanJimbo]

@@thebigmacd it’s always interesting to read something that someone writes that is not accurate. In theory, it would be great if a cylinder held permanent compression. But There are many times when a cylinder isn’t under compression. In fact, most of the time the engine isn’t under compression and some Of The time it’s in vacuum. This is the vacuum that works with gravity slowly allows oil to drift through minute imperfections. And threads. It’s reality. No tolerencint Can be perfect. Fouled plugs are a normal event on Hyundai GDI engines. Remember, while your theory is great, reality is even a balloon loses air. Through the rubber molecules. However, it is fair to say that a bad valve cover gasket doesn’t just leak into the plug wells. It leaks in many places usually and plug wells full of oil are a good sign it is in fact leaking badly. After replacing gaskets, Cleaning out the combustion chambers is also a very good idea to free up rings, and my bore scope tells me it works miracles to do it. Carbon is melted away. And fuel economy improves as well. But I do agree, in theory you are right. In real practice, steel sealing washers are imperfect items.

[@tlr-nut7275]

Oil will pass through the plug threads. Then foul the plug.

[@lvsqcsl]

Back in 1980 when GM brought out the front-wheel drive X-cars, there was myriad problems with engine/chassis etc. I coined the phrase "Disposable Cars" back then. I guess the 'ol Mercury is going to need to run past 500,000 miles. GREAT VIDEO!

[@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404]

I've' got a good one from the earlier years. It's a 2005 Sonata with a 2.7 v6. I bought it with 250k and I'm up to 377k with only a fuel pump failing on me last year. I am getting ready to order another timing belt for it this week, along with a set of spark plugs and lifters because one of them takes a few minutes to fully pump up from cold start, resulting in a tap for a few minutes.

[@calholli]

I've seen a common theme with these.. just like Subarus.. If you don't change the oil often enough, the engine creates a lot of issues.. vs Those who do change their oil religiously, tend to have decent results with these cars.

[@LesReeves]

It is a must with GDI engines & 5W30 oil every 5 thousand klms or once a year if you do not drive that far (I do not know what that equates to in miles.)

[@calholli]

@@LesReeves Just type "5km to miles" into any search engine

[@davyarthurs]

I saw that video of Bernie’s you mention. Look forward to hearing your findings!!

[@tonyedwards5782]

Hello Ivan I just read an article about Valvoline they produced an oil for diesel engine for oil consumption. May be worth looking into. Great videos by the way. As a retired master tech with Mazda it's great entertainment watching you work. Ha ha😊

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

Great diagnostic, Ivan! You got a better than expected result, in what seemed an hopeless case. Curious to see your conclusions on the oil additive for oil burners.

[@Jimmyky77]

I watched a video with Bernie at ATS a couple of weeks ago ,he was using the ATS Engine Treatment, I believe it was an Old Corvette with Engine Sludge and he had Very Good Results Ivan!👍🏻

[@John-wz3iu]

I saw the video too. I wasn't convinced of claims but hopefully Ivan will do a video on this in the future.

[@anguslean4058]

@@John-wz3iuit’s turpentine

[@richardcranium5839]

it desludged the engine but i'm not convinced it freed the rings up.

[@jerryking2418]

Another brilliant diagnostic.

[@bad05ford]

This is from lack of maintenance. These new car's all seem to have to have extended manufacturers service interval recommendations which is causing the problems.

[@simsauto]

Same on the ford ecoboost 110000, and thousands in Europe whit engine seized below 45000 miles

[@glenharper3136]

Thanks for the video Ivan.

[@wernerdanler2742]

I was wondering if it was stuck rings causing the excessive oil burn and you confirmed it. These direct injected engines are ticking time bombs. Thanks, Ivan! 😊

[@gc8417]

Yota 1nz 240k clock time, original owner. Recently started burning about 2 quarts between oil changes (no smoke on start up or at idle). Did the BG EPR treatment and seems to have cut oil loss in half + running way smoother. Excited to see some 505 results. I spend too much time following your channel, along with SouthMain. You guys are great Techs and appreciate the knowledge sharing.

[@sufferinsilence6474]

Ive had good luck with pulling the plugs and filling the cylinders with sea foam. I let them sit for a few days and turn engine over with fuel disabled to push out any excess fluid. I do this a couple times. Then, change the oil. Seems to work well

[@MrTonyPiscatelle]

Nice video Ivan. I learn new stuff from every video you share with us.

[@user-qc7dr3cd3q]

97 LeSabre with 3800 driven daily. Bulletproof engine.

[@sebry25ify]

looking forward to the oil treatment experiment.

[@advancedleveldiagnostics]

Your title pretty much sums it up; yup, they are disposable😅. Thanks for sharing! would be curious to see the results of Bernie's product.

[@ChrisWilliams-pu8pj]

Great advice! Looking forward to the test of the ring cleaning chemical.

[@diodadioda]

I'm currently renovating a Kia Sorento 3.3 V6. It's the same engine. The newest engines are 1 year old. Valve tappets are already missing. 50% is achievable. The engine has 180,000 km and everything is worn out. The crankshaft is so soft that it can be damaged by measuring. New crankshaft in EU $1600. The parts alone were worth $3,000. In the EU, it's hard to find a strong car with a towbar and a towing capacity of 3.5 tons.

[@farmermiyagi1338]

Damn! I haven't heard a Scotty Kilmer reference in a long time. XD

[@NVRAMboi]

Scotty's "good friend Bernie out in Albuquerque".

[@baxrok2.]

Thanks Ivan! Can't wait to see the results with Bernie's magic in a can.

[@neilmurphy845]

Ivan is a fantastic mechanic It's great how he goes to extra mile to double check everything is okay and now the customer can be rest assured that the engine light is nothing to worry about But to check the codes every now and again to make sure it is not something important.

[@plowkingf15]

I think frequent oil changes help. Especially with vvt.I think rainmani ray had one on its second engine.And that engine the owner let it go ten thousand over before Ray did the oil change.He might have to do an engine flush. The engine was still running ok but was in for other work.

[@d.fordphotography4646]

Hi Ivan, I've been looking at some of your videos, and I must say I love the way you work and braked down what testing you do. Can you say where you get your wiring diagrams? I am thinking about getting into diagnostic work here in the Caribbean

[@calholli]

I seen that video.. He cleaned the top end of an old corvette I believe. I'd be a little shocked if it actually could unstick rings, since not a lot of oil really gets to the rings, relatively. But it will be interesting to see the results.

[@craiggoodwin9704]

Ivan an KIA owner, Good Luck! Thanks for Sharing!

[@ganeshnarayan5505]

Great video Ivan.

[@FadetoBlack1463]

The smoking could be caused by hardened valve seals or worn guides. May be worth a look with a bore scope to see if oil is running down on to the valves. If so it may only require a valve job not a complete engine overhaul. Love your channel.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

I just put new rings in my '03 Forester because of high oil consumption. The holes behind the oil rings were so plugged that I literally had to drill them out!! I'm guessing that the old rings were low tension. Not much resistance when sliding in the bore. New rings definitely protruded from the piston more and had a lot more of resistance. I haven't driven it yet. I'm hoping to slow/eliminate the oil consumption from the qt per 1000 miles! I'm thinking the carbon cutting formula you mentioned won't clean those little holes unless the pistons were removed and soaked in it. The carbon was brown and rock hard. It was strange, when driving, start up, no blue/black smoke. You would think I'd see something. Maybe the consumption was happening when hot and the cats were working over time? 🤔

[@danamcintyre3565]

Hopefully you do a video on the new find for oil consumption motors to let us know if indeed it works, happy motoring !

[@BehindTheCounter_TFSO]

I've watched the video featuring Bernie Thompson, and I'm intrigued by the insights shared. Specifically, I'm curious about your take on CRO505. Let's dig into it!

[@lonwillis783]

Yeah a friend of mine had this issue with a hyundai suv. I told him to replace the spark plugs and the O2 sensor. then run thinner weight oil 0w 16 and it seemed to help.

[@nv1493]

Mfg don't need to build a dependable car anymore, they just need it to last through the warranty.

[@gsxellence]

It works depending on if there stuck or not. Used it in my Mazda 6 3.0 freed up something, was also burning oil badly.

[@inekelassooij840]

Bedankt voor de al die informatie. Groetjes uit Holland 👋🏼🇳🇱

[@johnlarkin549]

Ivan looking forward to your feed back on possible ring unsticker test. I don’t have an oil burner but plenty do and many can’t afford a fix or upgraded car so I feel for them. 👍

[@Bdog0820]

This is very unfortunate. The only Hyundai I'd ever buy again would be a 2008-10 Hyundai Elantra. They are absolutely bulletproof. I had one throughout highschool and midway through college. I guess I lucked out there...

[@alross18058]

saw a video of a kia tech that filmed the shop in his dealership and there were 17 engines on the floor scattered around the shop. used ones that have been changed out and new ones to be installled. he got fired for posting the video

[@keysautorepair6038]

The drain back holes on the piston get clogged up with soot the oil has no place to go except out the tailpipe.

[@calholli]

Well that's exactly the kind of thing that this formula is supposed to dissolve.. So maybe there's a chance for it to work.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

That's what the holes behind the oil ring is for? 🤔 I just put new rings in my '03 Forester. Those holes were so plugged that I literally had to drill them out!! I'm guessing that the old rings were low tension. Not much resistance when sliding in the bore. New rings definitely protruded from the piston more and had a lot more of resistance. I haven't driven it yet. I'm hoping to slow/eliminate the oil consumption from the qt per 1000 miles!

[@keysautorepair6038]

@@dans_Learning_Curve Had a 2.4 eclipse 8 years ago had the holes plugged so bad had to drill them out was using a quart of oil every 500 miles still driving it today no oil consumption at all 100k miles later hopefully you get the same result.

[@calholli]

@@dans_Learning_Curve The main issue is that the GDI sprays fuel directly into the cylinder.. and if there is anything at all wrong with O2 sensors or MAF, etc.. and it's dumping too much fuel--- it will wash all the cylinder walls and get fuel down into the oil and dilute it.. So then the rings are just scraping dry against the cylinders and it doesn't really take that long to overheat them and then they lose their heat treatment hardness and they wear very quickly after that.. So the key to a GDI engine is to change your oil often.. so at least if the oil does get diluted--- you can flush it out fairly quickly..... that and the fact that the rings are probably subpar materials to begin with.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

@@keysautorepair6038 thank you for the kind words! Yes, being in the rust belt, I hope the engine outlasts the body! Already over 200,000 on the car.

[@Jamie_4444]

I’d probably look in the bank 2 cylinders for scoring. I wonder if it ingested the cat like the old Nissan 2.5L engines would. He had leaking injectors and bad AFR sensors which probably melted the cats. Great content as always! Thanks Ivan😎

[@pootthatbak2578]

Im sure seafoam works great on small engines. Seafoam is my "go to" chemical fix for varnishy/ carboned-up lawn mowers and weedwackers. I once fixed an oil burning 1991 ford probe, 3.0 liter engine, needed one quart every 3 or 4 hundred miles with Rislone oil treatment..i believe some rings were carboned to the piston

[@uncommonsense5876]

21:00 there are a couple cleaners I do use to free oiled up piston rings . One is a GM product, one is name brand. They do work. Have to soak the rings with several oz of cleaner soaked thru topnof pistons

[@samihabib661]

You should try the BG engine restoration kit...I did it on my f150 3.5 ecoboost...engine valve looked like factory after..put a scope inside the oil pan...looked brand new

[@g1jee]

It would have been interesting to see a borescope look inside the cylinders. Carboned up valves? Cylinder wall scoring?

[@phill3144]

Did you check the pcv was working, crankcase breather can thow lots of oil particles into the inlet manifold, usually get soot on the exhaust tip

[@A2Wx8]

I've got the Lambda II GDI turbo V6 in mine, OCI by the book is 7,500 miles. By 7,500 that oil would look like charcoal. Every 6 months / 4k miles full synthetic for me and even that is dark by the time it's done. GDI improves power and economy but not at some definite costs.

[@BABA-ws5eo]

I commend you for telling the customer all the facts. I think that's the best thing they can do. Any cure for excessive oil burning is an expensive hardware fix. (I'm looking forward to your test of the carbon cleaner!). And for a car in that condition, replacing the cat on an oil burner is probably not a great idea since the new cat would probably fail soon after too.....better to just squeeze out some more miles from it...

[@major__kong]

Getting some monitors to run can be a bear. My mom has a 2005 Honda Accord, and it was sitting for a long time with a dead battery. I managed to get everything to run except evap. Turns out Honda wants very specific conditions like tank between 1/4 and 3/4 and temperature above freezing for 8 hours. It finally ran that monitor after a week of trying.

[@grad0n]

I was dumb-founded when last year hyundai freely replaced my buddy's 199,000 mile 2014 sorento 2.4l that had been consuming a quart of oil every week. He was the 2nd owner! Get in on that class-action recall! Oh yeah, he has a p0420 and temporarily got rid of it with a $20-30 bottle of "cat-cleaner".

[@jimsix9929]

you had some good advice on this one, get the fuel mixture right and a few quick oil changes, get those rings free and it may be ok

[@mrjsv4935]

Luckily my 2016 Kia Rio has 4 cylinder engine with old school fuel injection system, so far no oil consumption. Battery may be aging though. At the start of this year we had very cold week, maxed at -36°C and at first cold day, tried to start the car after it had been sitting for 2-3 days, resulting only a click at the starter motor. Darn headlights came on as I left them on auto setting, drawing power from battery, so turned them off, turned also blower and radio off, and then it started. Drove much longer trip than usually to charge the battery (agm) and so far it's been fine again. Of course could've been some temporary malfunction at the starter too. Happened only once so won't take any action yet, just keeping it in mind, if something unfolds in the future.

[@jamesstrope9053]

might check for extended warrenty, my son had 2016 kia with the same problem

[@stephenhuber1219]

Ivan, You helped my friend Randy with a key issue on his 2015 Tuscon. His engine went bust out of warranty and the dealer gave him a new engine

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Wow that's a BIG WIN! 😊

[@tacocin]

Personal experience ... Bernie's ATS really works! He also has a fuel injection/fuel system cleaner that puts all the competition to shame. A bit pricey but soooo worth the expense compared to extensive repairs. Try it!

[@firstlast---]

How does it compare to bg?

[@tacocin]

far better@@firstlast---

[@firstlast---]

@@tacocin interesting. never heard of this stuff I'll check it out

[@greggc8088]

4:40-You've got to wave your arms around Ivan. Like Scotty. LOL Hyundai/Kia has a TSB 222 for oil consumption on some engines that outlines cleaning the combustion chamber with solvent and using air pressure to force it by the rings. IDK if it works as I've never tried using air pressure to force solvent by the rings but just let them soak a few hours instead. Motors are junk though.

[@johnleinen7167]

The Chrysler MULTIAIR 2.4, is one I've seen burn a quart a week till the crankcase is near dry!, you top it up with 4 quarts and it's good to go for a month!

[@vicpetrishak7705]

Two different customers complaints class 8 truck oil consumption , both had recently replaced ( 6 - 8 months ) dipsticks and calibrated their dipsticks incorrectly . Basically overfilling crankcase by 1 gallon of oil .

[@crisprtalk6963]

Looking forward to the magic treatment results. Highly doubtful it will produce great lasting results.

[@LesReeves]

After reading a lot of the post I am glad I own a Nissan 2002 Pulsar with 209 thousand klms on it & it does not use any oil, every time I change the oil I check the dipstick & it is still at the level it was when I done the last oil change.

[@peugeotplanet7553]

Did you switch back to the thinktool or you worked on this before pro master disaster van.. I personally prefer the thinktool or maybe I've just gotten attached to it from watching your videos 😅 Educative video as always..

[@LesReeves]

If it was my vehicle I would get that bank 2 cat replaced & sell it as it is only going to keep costing money even if it is buying oil for it (plus putting a thicker grade oil in a GDI is only going to make that system more failure prone oil needs to be thin to get up there on cold start ups )Cheers Ivan another good learning video for the DIYers.

[@kakofon78]

Reason of burning oil maybe stuck piston rings , using engine flush fluid may release them and she may stop burning oil

[@kevinshasteen5682]

Back in the 1980's I took a class on Carburetors. My instructor was interesting. Not only was he a master mechanic and worked on Navy Submarine Wiring Shorts, but he had invested in part ownership of a dealership. He never said which brand but one day je told us about a letter he received from Detroit - so I new his partial ownership has to be in an American dealership. Anyway he read the letter out loud to the class. The letter announced from this moment on Detroit would be selling a 5 year car. Again that was the mid 80's where after 5 years no matter how well you took care of your car it was considered a Throw Away Car

[@gadasavideos8564]

Scanner said cat monitor not supported. I changed converter and o2 sensors on my 2002 s10 last summer. Not my regular drive but it just completed the test last week.

[@walkingman9171]

BG has had some products out for many years that show improvement as well.

[@moparnut6286]

As some one who drives a 76 a 77 and an 87 is my daily and my wife's is an 01...duaghters is a 98 both daily driven...anything from about 2005 on is disposable period.

[@oldbiker9739]

I still drive my 1991 GMC 1500

[@satamanschmidt3428]

Ivan, I love the destroyed urethane hammer in the background. If you need a nice hammer try Trusty Cook. As you well know I've got a complete set of them. Quality American Made urethane hammers.

[@mrnhl3080]

Heard if you use a oil catch can off the pvc valve it helps

[@randymarion2466]

I saw Bernie's video with the carbon remover too. I am very curious to see what your results are. I can tell you that I personally use Seafoam. Directly in the oil, 1 oz per Qt 300 miles before my oil change. I started doing this in a car with about 150K miles and just beginning to use some oil. I did see improvement. So now I use it about once a year as a PM. Since discovering this, I have used Seafoam directly on dismantled parts to remove gum and carbon and it clearly has dissolving properties. I can't wait for your video to see how it stacks up against Bernie's!

[@vagostsig3848]

My dear friend!!!Here in Europe is the opposite Huynday and Kia also some older Daewoo sedan had reach 800.000km!!!H+Kia have a very good service program 5-7 years Garantie!!!of course different engines and electronics!!!Are they made them in U.S???

[@GusMahn]

Valvoline is marketing Restore and Protect as a piston cleaning oil. It's worth a shot. With so many makes with these oil chugging engines today, I hope it works as advertised. I've personally had great success on a Berryman's B12 piston ring flush on a 2.0 Audi that was using 2 qts in 500 miles. After the flush, it 's well over 1000 miles/qt.

[@mikeluscher159]

Needs a good 5w40/0w40 after one of those BG Dynamic Engine Flushes that can help remove carbon from the ring pack Maybe even a piston soak, I've been doing them for years, but Hyundai finally came out with a TSB for it