Harvesting Honey

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Thank you to everyone for watching and supporting our videos! If you have any questions about our videos, please check out our list of FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS on our website, which can be found at honeybee.uoguelph.ca/videos/frequently-asked-questions/

[@ramgooly3597]

hi, dimension of bee box?,thanks

[@MntBrderRx]

I checked the FAQs. I wondered if you do any comb honey and if so, could you do a series of videos? Great series, tons of info. Thank you.

[@gamelover3558]

did any bees get hurt during the making of this

[@torontek]

Thank you Paul Kelly for making all this amazing videos and sharing it to public. So much learning form all these contents

[@thatoneidiotnamedme6990]

For a beginner beekeeper, like me, Watching your videos are great! This years been hard! My bees are not doing as good as they should! They have only built enough wax for 1 brood chamber! I have two on it! They have just started on the top! I also just added a super! Which they haven’t started on either! I live in the middle of PA, and we have just had no ran for a month! I think that had a big part in the problem! I would love to be a full time beekeeper! It’s pouring rain right now! So the golden rod should help them too! Thanks

[@sergejgajic]

thats a long comment! gota like it

[@ludwigszydlowski9286]

The best teacher. ❤ your classes

[@lintonmacnamara1469]

Great to watch you at work Paul. A real Pro....

[@مناحلآلغانمعلينظامأبوسلمآن]

My dear brother, how are your bees fed and do you use candy dough and how is it prepared?

[@hachimitsu5493]

@6:58 "Blast the Bees out" LOL, just sounds funny to hear it that way!

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

I guess it does! It sounds rough but the bee do fine.

[@عبدربالنبيعبدالمجيد]

@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre Allah (God) says in the Noble Quran about bees theses Quranic verses: ( And your Lord inspired the bees, saying: "Take you habitations in the mountains and in the trees and in what they erect, Then, eat of all fruits, and follow the ways of your Lord made easy (for you)."There comes forth from their bellies, a drink of varying colour wherein is healing for men. Verily, in this is indeed a sign for people who think).

[@PaulDrummer1]

Thanks for very good video. Would you recommend keeping the capped supers from the start of the season till the end and harvest once a year. Or remove the spring honey supers and add new for the summer honey?

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Paulius We harvest honey in late July and again in mid September. Those dates are when our two major nectar flows end. I couldn't advise on you location but at the end of major flows is a good time.

[@poodidi9]

you must have quiet bees,how they don't sting you after using the blower is amazing

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Buckfast Bees - we select for gentle behaviour first. With bees going everywhere when blowing some would get inside a veil. I find it better to not wear one.

[@gpardoch]

Great videos!!

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Thanks!

[@sakhmy]

hello sir and thank you very much for this fantastic videos it helps me a lot in beginning my Hobby i so you in this video at the time point 5:06 used a bee escape and i want to ask how it been made please

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Thanks for your question Saleem. Nice to hear you have found our videos helpful. see www.beeculture.com/make-a-triangle-bee-escape-heck-make-one-for-every-hive/

[@trebronmeheszet]

I have the most powerful still blower and I don't have to take out any of those small frames If the box not so heavy it could be blow the whole box so I also grab it with my left hand, other thing is that u have to take the box out of that place when blowing otherwise the bees flying back continuously into the box. Good luck

[@beekeeper4243]

You have some good natured bee's mate👌🏻

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

That's true. We work with Buckfast bees. Keld Brandstrup in Denmark is who taught us this breeding system and who we get breeders from occasionally.

[@johnbruney1042]

I am new to bees and will be starting with two packages in March 2017. I have been very impressed with your videos and feel that I have gleaned a lot of great information!! I do have two questions I hope you can/will answer... I am intrigued by your use of canvas inner covers. I have never seen them until now. I am in Tennessee and wonder how they would offer the same ventilation a "regular" inner cover would for our summer heat? And, I have yet to see any videos by you on mite and beetle control. Is this not a problem for you?

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi John Thanks for your comments and questions. 1. I can't say how well our inner covers would work in your area but we have a full bottom entrance on our hives and an upper entrance drilled into the brood chamber. I don't like entrances into the honey supers as they allow pollen storage in the supers. The materialwe use is 18 oz or #8 Duck. 2. We have steered clear of advice on mite or beetle control as there are different recommendations and regulations for other locations. Please check with your local beekeeper's association to find out where to get this information. I'm glad to hear you want to educate yourself about pests and diseases as that's extremely important for success. Good luck geting your start in beekeeping. You'll love it.

[@suzannewatson4101]

Wondering Paul what you are using as the hive tops. What type of material is that ?

[@suzannewatson4101]

Found the answer. Thank you

[@denysantonenko3742]

I have a wild swarm of bees living in my chimney for three years already that I want to capture next spring to put them in a hive... around the beginning of April. They’ve swarmed this passed May. I was wondering what should I do in this situation? Wait for them to swarm and then catch them and transfer them to the hive or catch them in April before they swarm and then divide the two colonies into two hives? Can you please help me? I have no idea what to do. Thanks for the video! It was very very helpful!!!

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Denys There is likely a local beekeeper that could help you do this job. It takes some experience to do it safely.

[@academicdabbler836]

Great set of videos! How should I handle frames of uncapped honey at the end of the season? I know that I need to remove the super, but there could be too much moisture in the honey as it sits, so I can't package it.

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Thanks! Consider what your average honey moisture will be from all the frames. A small percentage of uncapped frames is ok if the honey is getting mixed together from multiple frames. Do the shake test to see if the honey is dry enough. Hold an uncapped frame horizontally above a super and see if you can shake any honey out. If not it should be ripe enough to harvest. A dehumidifier in a warm room will decrease the moisture content prior to extraction.

[@wmrogerware]

Will buckfast bees do well in the southeastern United States 🇺🇸? You are a talented beekeeper, I appreciate your practical topics.

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Wmrogerware Yes they do well there. The challenge is to keep them as Buckfast. When a queen is queen superceded she mates with local drones and picks up aggression that way. Your local stock, wild and managed, ultimately determine the qualities of your stock. See our video 'managing towards gentle behaviour ' for some more thoughts about this topic. Thanks for your generous comments!

[@l0wride]

What happens to the bees in fall when you don’t put the supers back on? There wouldn’t be room in the brood chambers so do they just fly off and die?

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi There The bee population drops off markedly at this time of year and the ambient temperature is lower so overcrowding isn't a problem.

[@amathonn]

I've only used BeeQuick but the escape board intrigues me. Don't Small Hive Beetles bother the unprotected honey?

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Good question. We don't have small hive beetle yet. I haven't heard that using escapes is a problem where the beetles exist.

[@framcesmoore]

ha I am watching them all over again they are so great. Did u modify the blower to use it on the bees thanks

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

HI again Francis! I shortened the pipe that directs the air so It's easier to use with bees.

[@andylossing7628]

How about using time boards. We took honey off with that.

[@rebelgaming7676]

I'm new to beekeeping and I just got muddiest hive...would u recommend not using a suit if I am calm and don't flinch everytime a bee lands on me

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Rebel It's best to have a suit because sometimes you'll need it. Same thing with gloves but try to get used to working without gloves. With our crew I only allow gloves for extreme situations. As you get more comfortable you'll know when you can skip the suit. Most beekeepers always were a veil of some sort. Being clam a not flinching makes a huge difference but so does the hive genetics.

[@peterfletcher8951]

Talk to me about your cloth looking inner cover. I've never seen another. Does it allow enough air flow? I assume it must or you wouldn't use it. So, WHY do you use it?.....

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Peter Please see our FAQ #1 below. We did a video this summer on the topic and it will bee posted in the fall. It provides no ventilation so we drill a hole in our brood chambers. 1. Why do we use canvas for the hive inner cover? A: We use canvas inner covers for a few reasons. They make it easy to take a quick peek in the hive, and are cheap and easy to make. They are light, the lids sit down well, less excess wax on the frame top bars, and we rarely need to scrape the inner cover. We use 18 oz (#8) canvas -otherwise known as duck. It's a bit hard to come by in Ontario, but it is available from online distributors (US: www.bigduckcanvas.com/number-8-18oz-cotton-duck-canvas.html, Canada www.jtsoutdoorfabrics.com/18oz-Cotton-Duck-Canvas-Untreated--Natural-60_p_15038.html). Bees chew through thin canvas so a heavy weight is better. We flip it over periodically when new so the bees thoroughly coat it with propolis. An alternative is a feedbag folded in half. 2. Why do we use single brood chambers? A: Our preference is to keep hives in single brood chambers. We use queen excluders above the brood chamber and then add supers. We produce bigger crops managing our hives in singles vs doubles and we find the hive management much easier. It's become quite common here, especially over the last twenty years. We will be making a video about single brood chambers soon! 3. Are our queens for sale? A: We sell some queens but don't export. To contact us about our queens, please email us at [e-mail]. Our Buckfast collaborators also sell queens: Munro Honey www.munrohoney.com/ (for CAN sales) and Ferguson Apiaries fergusonapiaries.on.ca/ (for CAN and US sales). . 4. What breed of honeybee do we use? A: We work with Buckfast bees. Check out our website if you would like to learn more about them: www.uoguelph.ca/honeybee/breeding.shtml 5. Will we be making any more videos? A: Yes! We are looking forward to creating more videos for our KZbin channel this year! Here are some of the topics we will be covering: Working with single brood chambers, indoor overwintering. 6.How do you overwinter double nucleus colonies? A: At the University of Guelph, we winter our double nucleus colonies indoors. You can also winter them outdoors by wrapping two double nucs together with insulation on the sides and top. 7. Are double nucleus colonies prone to swarming? A: With a young queen and the supers above we don't have any problem with these nucs swarming in the first year. We do have to transfer them into a full size box early enough the following spring to prevent swarming. 8. Do we add a frame of pollen or honey into a new split? A: Ideally you add both pollen and honey. Of the two, honey is the most important. 9. Where to purchase some of the products that we use: Coveralls: We really like these Dickies all cotton coveralls. www.dickies.com/coveralls-overalls/deluxe-cotton-coverall/48700.html?dwvar_48700_color=GY#start=3. We use two sided velcro to strap up the wrists and usually tuck the legs into our socks. Plastic Queen cages: Mann Lake and their Canadian distributors sell these and they are made by the French company Nicot. www.mannlakeltd.com/hair-roller-cages. I use a wooden plug on the bottom and screw it in place with a #4 screw after pre drilling. Grafting microscope: www.amscope.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=gooseneck+binocular Mini/mating nucleus boxes: Mann Lake (US) and their Canadian distributors sell these. They are originally from Europe so are widely available there. www.mannlakeltd.com/shop-all-categories/hive-colony-maintenance/queen-rearing/nuc-boxes Queen Pheromone: The pheromone strips were developed here in Canada. They are called Tempqueen and are made by Intko Supply Ltd.Suite 604, 3345 Kingsway VANCOUVER, BC, V5R 0A7 Canada [phone]. [e-mail]. Mann Lake in the US and several Canadian bee supply companies carry them. Bee belt and bulk bee box: Our apiary manager Paul Kelly manufactures the Bee Belts and bulk bee box. If you are interested in more information, please email him at [e-mail]. 10. Should you remove any queen cells in a colony before introducing a new queen in a cage? A: Yes, you should remove the queen cells. Look very carefully to make sure you don't miss one. Shake the bees off each frame to make sure you can see them all. Accepted queens are sometimes killed by virgins that emerge from queen cells. 11. Can you make a split without adding a mated queen/can a split raise their own queen? A: A split can raise their own queen (if they have eggs), but you'd be better off buying a mated or queen cell from a local bee breeder. Queens raised by a split are reared under the worst possible conditions, are physiologically inferior, and you aren't taking the opportunity to improve your hive genetics. For a number of reasons, colonies get more aggressive if we let splits raise their own queens. We always use queen cells that we have reared from breeder colonies so we can maintain and improve our genetics. Cells found in hives can be poorly reared if conditions aren't good or if you use swarm cells you are unintentionally breeding for swarming behavior. 12. How often do we check for swarm cells? A: We check for queen cells only in colonies that are stronger based on our ratings as described in our “Swarm Control” video. We only do this at the time of year bees are prone to swarming (ie just before the main summer nectar flow). In some colonies, we check twice, a week apart, if we have the time and we've found cells in them previously. We stop looking once the nectar flow gets going and the time for swarm preparation has passed. 13. How old is a queen when we replace her? A: We re-queen if a queen isn't doing well or when she is in her third year. 14. How often should you be stung to lessen the chances of developing anaphylactic reactions? A: Please speak with an allergist if you have any concerns regarding bee sting reactions. You don’t need that many stings to build an immunity and reduce your chance of developing an allergy. However, reactions can be very different from one individual to the next. For about three years after starting beekeeping you swell more in the spring when the bee season starts. After that most people don't swell up much at all. Some beekeepers apply stings through the winter to keep building immunity. 15. What do we use as candy for the queen cages? A: You can make the candy using honey and icing sugar but the candy you see in the tubes in our videos are purchased with the cages from Mann Lake beekeeping supplies and their Canadian distributors. In our province, it's not legal to use honey in queen candy if you are distributing queens. Honey can contain American Foulbrood spores. A specialized, non-drying, sugar syrup (Nulomoline invert sugar) can be used instead of the honey. In any case the candy must be made dry enough that it's crumbly. 16. How do we make pollen patties? A: The patty is made from pollen we collect using a pollen trap. We mix the pollen pellets with sugar syrup to a dough like consistency, form the patties between layers of wax paper and then keep them frozen until they are needed. They will keep for several months frozen. 17. How do we make our grafting bars? A: We cut the wood pieces and attach them to the graft bar with liquid beeswax. We then attach the cups with liquid wax. In both cases the liquid wax is applied with a syringe. Previously, we made the wax cups but now buy them from www.kelleybees.com/. 18. Do we move full honey supers to the top of the stack so the bees can fill the lower ones? A: Some beekeepers do shuffle the supers around and do what's called bottom supering. We place supers back on in the original order and only add new supers on top (top supering). That way it's easier to see when the bees need more space. The bees also ripen the honey before moving up. We sometimes harvest full lower supers and put the top ones that aren't full back on in the original order. 19. Do we ever add brood frames to the cell builder colonies to keep their populations high? A: We do add other frames of sealed brood and sometimes we shake in more young bees from brood frames to boost the hives. About once every three weeks we'll boost the hives in one way or another. 20. How do you level hive stands? A: We level the hive stands periodically with pressure treated wood shims. If the hives are already on the stands, we use a hardwood pry bar and a brick fulcrum to lift each end for shimming.

[@DeadEyeRabbit]

Not sure where you are exactly but is July your earliest harvest? Can you extract any honey in earlier month?

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Rabbit We are in Guelph Ontario Canada. Maybe one year in ten we harvest earlier. WE could take smaller harvests a bit earlier but prefer to take it off only twice.

[@beekeeper8474]

I think this is the first and only video to show using the leaf blower to remove your bees

[@johnw8419]

Great videos. Thank you so much for making them. Do you always use foundation and extract honey? Ever make comb honey or go foundation-less. You really do have nice gentle bees and you are a real pro.

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Thanks John. I like to use foundation vs foundation-less frames as you get more evenly drawn comb without much fuss and the comb is more durable as it has embedded wires. For economy (and so I can do other things in the winter) we have been using a lot of plastic frames lately. We do some comb honey but mostly extracted honey. Foundation- less comb honey can work out pretty well. I'd like to do a video on hive equipment including some construction methods. Will add that to the list of suggested topics.

[@olgalozano6408]

Good day. It was a first year of my beekeeping. I have a hive now with one deep supper full of broad and second supper full of honey. Should I extract honey or I need to leave everything for bees? Please advise. Thank you.

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Olga There are a lot of factors to consider and I don't know where you live so I can't give you a good answer. We harvest honey supers and leave the bees in one brood chamber. We also feed our hives so they have enough food stored at the right time in their brood chamber. I'd suggest you watch a few more of our videos especially 'feeding and overwintering'. A good beekeeping book that covers beekeeping where you live would be worth purchasing. Good luck!

[@crazycanadian7741]

Can you please tell me how to protect the empty honey shell's for winter storage, here in Greece wee have a big problem with the wax moths, in Austria my brother-in-law puts them in the celar roof he has made a maze of metal [ and slides in the frames ] and when he neads there clean, it's good when you have a cool place. Thank you for helping us,ANDREAS kotsos samos Greece. PS when wee find frames inflected wee stack the boxes closing the lid and burn sulfer ,the smoking kills all the larvae.

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi CC We store our empty comb in an unheated building over the winter. 24 hours of freezing kills all stages of wax moth. We try to keep any unused equipment in a cool place in the summer and for sure get all dark brood comb onto colonies. If we get a bit of moth activity we temporarily put a box on top of a colony and let the bees remove all the wax moth larvae, webbing etc. They sure hate wax moths and are removing them very quickly - fun to watch!

[@crazycanadian7741]

@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre thank you for the good information.

[@oliverhorsfall4501]

Are you using deeps for the brood boxes, and 1/2 deeps for the honey supers?

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Oliver Yes we use deeps for brood chambers and 6 5/8" high boxes for honey supers. We call these shallows.

[@leonardpaparizo517]

Informative videos.Question where can I find the material used for inner cover?

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Leonard I'm glad you find the videos informative. Our inner covers are made from 18 oz or #8 Canvas (Duck) It's hard for us to source locally but I see it's available online here www.bigduckcanvas.com/number-8-18oz-cotton-duck-canvas.html We flip the inner cover over periodically when it's new so the bees thoroughly coat it with propolis. Bees chew through thinner canvas. Another option is a feed bag folded in half.

[@leonardpaparizo517]

Thank you so much for info and responding back soon.

[@chitoh]

Nice one..

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Thanks 😊

[@jimt3014]

What is the material of your inner cover? Does this type cut down on hive ventilation?

[@jimt3014]

Sorry just saw explanation below.

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

No Problem Jim Lots of interest in our inner covers!

[@nathanrobb6489]

So now that i have reaped my honey what do I need to do to carry them through to next year(i live in the tropics so we dont have a winter per say but temperatures can drop at night and early morning. besides winterizing any other tips that you suggest to do after the honey season? could u do a video about that? I know it wont be the same but basic tips besides winterizing

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

HI Nathan I can't comment about beekeeping in the tropics as I have no experience there.

[@oliverhorsfall4501]

are shallows 1/2 the size of deeps?

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

HI Oliver I'd recommend that you get a good book on beekeeping. No offense but I think one of the best books is Beekeeping for Dummies.

[@bryonbailey8615]

Do you have a dearth in the summer in your area

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

There is sometimes a dearth in the spring in between dandelion and clover and August can be slow too if we don't get anything from second cut alfalfa. We have a pretty consistent fall flow in September from golden rod.

[@framcesmoore]

can u shake them off do u use honey that is not capped all the way. I saw a video where the person shook the frame and no nectar flew out and they said it was ok to harvest it is that true to what u know thanks one more question I seen a video where a top entrance is good with the suppers it helps the bees remove the water from the nectar so they can cap it faster and u get more please tell me your thoughts and thanks again

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Shaking a frame above the open hive is a good way to test how ripe the honey is. We don't provide an entrance above the queen excluder so no pollen is stored in the honey supers. An upper entrance in the summer doesn't seem necessary for ripening honey but we all have different ideas.

[@framcesmoore]

I am sorry u did not understand my question, I will try again, can u and do u take a frame of honey that has not been capped and harvest it, I see a video where the bee keeper shook the frame and if the nector does not fly out he said the fram is ok for to harvest, please tell me what u think thank u and have a great day

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Frances We do harvest some honey that isn't capped, The shake test is a good way to see if it's ripe. Hold the frame flat to shake so the cells openings are facing straight down. We normally harvest by the super and not frame by frame so not all frames are capped. I hope I got it this time :)

[@framcesmoore]

I am watching the video for the 3rd time and another question just pop in my head if u did not want to harvest the honey do u rotate the suppers so the bees will work the top more and set the ripen honey box on top will that be ok to do that the videos are wonderful thank u so much for doing them you do a wonderful job thanks and have a wonderful day

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Frances Some beekeepers do shuffle the supers around and do what's called bottom supering. I place supers back on in the original order and only add new supers on top ( top supering). That way it's easier to see when they need more space etc and the bees ripen the honey before moving up. As in the video we sometimes harvest full lower supers and put the top one or more that aren't full back on in the original order. You have a great day too Frances!

[@عايدهنافع]

جميل ورائع زرعت وردة تبدال بصدق 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌

[@madu_murni_peisir]

Alhamdulillah...thannk you very much...

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

You are most welcome Yudi!

[@sergejgajic]

they use GUNBELTS

[@goaway1ify]

Do you ever get a nasty hive that "really" don't want you to get their honey Great videos....thank you

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Glad you find our videos helpful. We never see bees that are that bad but we do breed for gentle behaviour and eliminate any stack that doesn't measure up.

[@عايدهنافع]

جميل ورائع زرعت وردة تبدال بصدق 💞💞💞💞💞💞💞💗

[@robertwhitesr6412]

if you are suppose to always keep the bees calm why do you introduce them to hurrican force winds with a leave blower instead of just gently brushing them away. seems the leaf blower if a bit over kill and cruel to the bees

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Robert I was demonstrating the various methods that are used to harvest honey. Our preferred method is to use a bee escape. I only use a blower on our Island bee yards where the two trips required to use bee escapes is a logistical problem. Brushing bees off frames works ok for a few colonies but in a larger yard it gets the bees more riled up than a blower does partly because it's too slow. Believe it or not the blower doesn't make them aggressive. I never were a veil when blowing bees.

[@RoughAndWretchedRAW]

I harvest as it comes in and is ready. our honey is very light, not too sweet, very floral and even when it crystallizes is fine to the point of almost being creamed but naturally. I;m talking even late season our honey is light. I big time love the bee escape method. No hassle and very little intrusion. it's just a me thing and I don't care how others do it. I personally consider fume boards or brushing or blowing or shaking unnecessary for me. There are two operations involved in using escape board but I just figure it's the least I can do for the bees to harvest their and my labor with the least stress to us both. I'm not forcing them out but instead giving them a new and equivalent area to work and just preventing them from re entering the old. It never takes two days here. The next day I go back quickly grab the supers and load them and I'm gone before they know it.

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

You are in a great region for beekeeping. Nice to hear you like using bee escapes too.

[@RoughAndWretchedRAW]

@@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre I grew up on a grain farm with a bit of personal use chickens pigs. I understand necessity of roughness in certain operations. I'm just a believer that if you don't have to be the bear they why be the bear. This last summer was my first bees. Got them about June 17th. Watched many hundreds of videos on KZbin about everything bees for a couple years before I got them including your stuff so I had a good idea. Tons of different techniques for each operation to choose from. Just picked what I figured was easier on each while still providing proper and professional management. Don't know if it's a great area for bee keeping. Short season and damn cold winters. But I made the best of it. Rather than the tarps I had a small shed I insulated and ran a cord. Kinda set up a miniature version of what Ian Steppler uses to winter. So far so good. Bees are kept at about 4 degrees c and seem to be doing fine so far. still a long way to go though. It did take all the stress off of me. This shed is only 30' from the house so I bought an indoor outdoor wireless thermometer and humidity. Set the wireless sender in the shed. So it's nice. I can keep a constant eye on it at the kitchen table. Tons of money to get started even with only two 10 frames and now two late season nuc splits. Figured indoor wintering would increase the chances I have bees to start with in the spring. I should show a few manners instead of blathering on. Thank you!!!!! Your videos have been very informative. There is specific content in them such as the mini nuc queen rearing that I've found no where else. This year I want to drastically increase my number of hives and have come up with a way that should work to do so. No way a beekeeper with my experience would even be able to formulate intelligent ideas and plans without the videos like yours and many others out there. Once again!!! Thank you for your work and willingness to put it out there for the public. Very few others in Canada do so. Everyone says find a mentor. This is true but everyone is busy also. With KZbin the mentors are many and the questions can go to everyone so the individual isn't bothered too much.

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi RAW I agree simple is usually better. You should have good honey flows but wintering must be a challenge. Thanks for letting us know the videos are helpful. 21 more just about ready. So many options it's hard when you first start but I can see you will come up with your own methods in time. We all learn from others- beekeeper are great at sharing knowledge freely. Good luck on your beekeeping journey!

[@framcesmoore]

if u harvest the honey twice don"t u leave them any honey for the winter

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Frances We leave the bees whatever honey they have in their brood chamber and top this up by feeding sugar syrup. See the Feeding Bees and Overwintering video.

[@jaycustard4711]

Electric air compressor works better. Fumes from blower exit with air......but bee escapes best

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

Hi Jay I've never heard of anyone using compressed air. I would have thought that might be hard on the bees but I'm sure you have figured out a way. We only use a blower in remote locations where the two trips for escapes isn't practical. I agree that escapes are preferable in most situations.

[@ayoubdyablo7770]

مرحبا انا مبتدئ في تربية النحل اوريد نصيح

[@pfdr2835]

A

[@Retaab]

Don't do like that

[@fordguy8792]

Leaf blower... those bees got EVICTED.

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

I guess you right...but they move back in when the landlord goes away.

[@knightaaron7]

Drop them all down, come back in morning and all the bees have returned home, very rarely is a group still there, unless ofc a queen has left the brood box, happens but rarely, u can blow the bees but if there is nurse bees, and u havent made little ramps for them to climb back, then you just murdered bees.

[@jkprops]

If you leave them more of natures honey (they worked hard for it) for the bees then you would not have to feed them processed sugar mix with water, It is proven fact that processed sugar is not good for humans so what does it do to the bees? the natural enzymes and proteins found in nectar is much better than process sugar.

[@UoGHoneyBeeResearchCentre]

This method works well for us in our conditions. Our fall honey is not the best quality honey for bees to winter on and by feeding them we can ensure that they have enough food stored where they need it to make it through the winter. We all have different ideas about what's best for bees. Not being one it's hard to tell ;)

[@عبدربالنبيعبدالمجيد]

Allah (God) says in the Noble Quran about bees theses Quranic verses: ( And your Lord inspired the bees, saying: "Take you habitations in the mountains and in the trees and in what they erect, Then, eat of all fruits, and follow the ways of your Lord made easy (for you)."There comes forth from their bellies, a drink of varying colour wherein is healing for men. Verily, in this is indeed a sign for people who think).