Ural Valve Adjustment

Tools needed:
Valve cover nut: 12mm
Head nut: 15mm
Push rod adjustment: 13mm (lock nut) and 10mm open wrench, or adjustable
Feeler gauge: 0.004"-0.006"
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Audionautix - Modern Rock Boy
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[@epicridesandtours]

Nice, easy-to-follow instructions. My 2011 manual says .002" to .004". As an air-cooled engine, .005" should be ok. We have the car to the left over here, so TDC is easy to find, by viewing the flywheel mark. You guys would find that a tad uncomfortable. lol With the cork gaskets, when the rocker box cover is removed, oil pours out, as you noticed, so some of it gets on the gasket. I carefully remove the gasket, place it on a large, pre-prepared rag, and dab the oil off both sides of the gasket. I then spray both sides of the gasket with carbie cleaner and dab it dry. Wipe excess oil from the gasket seat, and Robert's ya Mother's Brother.

[@philpfirrmann7729]

If your going to do a "How To" video, at least know what your supposed to do, for a proper service. Your left side valve cover gasket was leaking, before you removed the cover. A helpful tip would have been, to place your oil pan under the valve cover to catch any oil that will run out, so as not to make a mess. And have someplace to put your valve cover after you take it off. Always have new gaskets on hand in case the old one rips or tears, when your taking it apart. You just slapped the valve cover back on.Why wouldn't you change it?. You re- torqued the head, and fought with the engines compression to get the valves in the correct position. Next time, take the spark plugs out to make it easier to spin the motor. Lastly, using the correct names for the parts and tools your using, make it sound like you know what your talking about.,,

[@ddosddos4673]

Вам нравиться Урал?

[@sylviavanheumen9473]

Fonz.

[@daveysingkoferii7455]

Why can’t you just re torque the head bolts without loosing them first?

[@jaesneverendingprojects]

There have been quite a few instances of bolts pulling the thread out of the block, even following factory specs (which themselves have been revised multiple times because of this), and I believe it's mostly out of caution to not over-torque them. If you explore the forums, there are people who claim they only torque them to 30 Nm (~22 lb-ft) and have no leaking issues with the base gaskets. Beyond that, it's just the way I've always been taught to "properly" torque bolts that are not overstressed by design (such as torque-to-yield head bolts).

[@adamhudson6088]

@@jaesneverendingprojects what year an model ? thanks

[@jaesneverendingprojects]

@@adamhudson6088 '14 Patrol

[@TheGearhead222]

@@jaesneverendingprojects There's no reason to loosen head bolts before retorquing nor any reason to check head bolt torque as long as the bike is running fine. The case material is too soft to handle repeated stresses of the jug bolts-John in Texas