URO Parts Coolant Transfer Feed Pipe 11141439975-PRM, Repair BMW N62 V8 Seal Leak

** Update ** The main seal was redesigned in 2017 and now has the bevel on the INSIDE, which makes it much easier to insert the pipe. The rear end of the pipe is now manufactured with an angled shoulder, which eliminates the need for an angled white plastic spacer (now blurred in the video) that was used in the original kit.
This video illustrates the installation of URO Parts Coolant Transfer Feed Pipe 11141439975-PRM in the BMW N62 V8 engine. (For N63 V12 engine, see kit 11147500355-PRM.) The pipe installs in the intake valley, eliminating the costly repairs associated with replacing the one-piece factory pipe. The simplicity and quality of this design is unsurpassed.
Late model BMW V8 models fitted with the N62 engine can suffer from a failure of the front seal of the water transfer feed pipe located under the intake valley pan gasket.
The original bonded seal fails primarily due to corrosion caused by an electro-chemical reaction between the materials over time.
Symptoms will be a coolant leak coming from the 5mm weep hole in the front timing cover of the engine and eventual loss of coolant and over heating.
The factory design is a long tube which can only be fitted from the front of the engine with the timing cover removed; a job that can cost upwards of $10,000 and take over 20 hours of shop time.
The URO Parts designed water pipe collapses allowing the same repair to be complete without removing the timing cover, saving thousands in labor costs and many hours of down time.
BMW Water Tube Kit Contents:
#1 Front Inner Water Tube (qty 1)
#2 Rear Outer Water Tube (qty 1)
#4 Rear Packing Shims 0.020” (nylon) (qty 3)
#5 Inner Tube O-Ring Seals (qty 3)
#6 Rubber Grease Packet (qty 1)
#7 Spirolox Locking Ring (qty 1)
#8 Front Tube Seal (qty 1)
#9 Rear Tube O-Ring Seal (qty 1) - *This has been updated to a high quality square seal for easier installation
Additional BMW Factory Parts Recommended:
*(This is a list of other items that will be required for completion of the water tube
Installation)
Qty 1 11 14 7 507 278 intake valley pan / gasket
Qty 2 11 61 7 521 181 intake manifold gasket
Qty 1 11 51 7 508 535 water pump gasket
Qty 1 11 51 7 507 717 water pump o-ring
Qty 1 11 51 1 439 976 water return pipe
*Note: other miscellaneous parts may require replacing based on the tear down necessary to access water pipe. See factory workshop manual for suggested parts listing.
A trained technician following the factory workshop manual and repair procedures is necessary to properly complete this repair.
After draining the cooling system, remove the intake manifold and other related components to expose the intake valley pan. Remove the intake pan so the factory 1 piece coolant pipe will now be exposed.
The existing pipe can now be cut in the center with a small air saw or cut off wheel. Remove the factory pipe in 2 pieces. The front will require some twisting or careful prying to break the bond of the front seal. Remove the remaining front seal material with a pick and wire brush taking care not to damage the seal housing and review the area visually. Remove the old rear o-ring seal taking the same care. Carefully clean the front seal gallery. Lubricate all surfaces of the front seal liberally with the grease provided in the kit. Fully fit front seal (item#8) into housing taking care to make sure the *flat profile of the seal faces the timing cover (forward). (*this is critical to a proper installation). Perform the same lubricating and fitting operation to the rear o-ring; noting however there is no orientation necessary for this seal. Fit the 3 supplied inner tube o-rings (item #5) carefully to the front tube section so each is fully seated into the machined grooves on the tube; lubricate with provided grease. Fit inner and outer tube (item #2) sections together taking care not to pinch or damage any of the pipe sealing rings & collapse completely. Then install the spirolox (item #7)around the smaller inner tube and position it by sliding it up against the end of the larger outer tube. Taking the assembled and collapsed pipe grease the front tube (smaller diameter pipe) and fit squarely into the front seal taking great care not to pinch or damage it. With a soft faced pry tool, lever the tube forward until it stops against the timing cover. Lubricate the end of the larger outside tube with grease provided. Grabbing both sections of the tube firmly, hold the front half in place and slide the rear section back into the block until it clicks home, being sure to rotate the tube so that the angled shoulder of the pipe matches the angle of the block. This should just expose the ring groove allowing the pre-installed locking ring to be slid forward into place. If after fully seating the tube into the block the snap ring grove is beyond the end of the rear tube half, installation of shims will be required. Casting variations during block manufacturing may make this simple procedure necessary.

[@bjankewicz1]

did this job a few weeks ago. very simple to use, works awesome, saved tons of money.

[@cocababy32]

My BMW 745i had this problem,thanks to this video I was able to fix it in one day.Now I will pretty busy doing BMW coolant transfer coolant pipe at a special rate..Thanks.

[@MrJgallegos3]

Cody urboy when you did this, was the pipe right after installation? Or did it move a little from side to side if u twisted?

[@Uroparts]

The ends of the collapsible pipe are securely positioned in the block after installation, thanks to the end seals and multiple o-rings between the sections of pipe. Some time ago, one of our competitors published an extremely deceptive "comparison" video showing our pipe loose and rattling in the block, which clearly didn't have the two end seals and three o-rings installed. The misleading video has since been removed.

[@ryanise7761]

Why is the hardest part (installing in front hole) blurred out?

[@Tehkkey]

Just bought one of your coolant repair pipes! Looking forward to fixing this V8 BMW 😊

[@byrona8]

Thank you! I've repaired my n62 coolant transfer pipe. No more leaks. Thanks!

[@Uroparts]

Excellent, glad we could help!

[@TheRealMrBimmer]

I just installed mine. I noticed that with the angled shoulder on the rear-end of the URO pipe, after securing the the locking ring, I was able to twist the rear half of the pipe ( with pliers )counter-clockwise against the rear block casting ( the pipe-hole surrounding block casting area is angled outward as it drops down around the pipe hole) , therefore by twisting it counter-clockwise, I was able to lock the front face of the tube, with torque, up against the inside of timing cover, using applied force and creating positive pressure, not too much, but enough for a satisfying amount of torque , applied by the face of the pipe tube, against the inside of the timing cover, to a forced-stop... making sure that there is absolutely no space between the inside of the timing cover and the front of the pipe...Nice and Tight..In my case, negating the need for spacers...Because I could've never applied that much force from the pipe, to the inside of the timing cover, due to accessibility and angles...can't get any tighter than that for sure... Just My .02c

[@Uroparts]

Nice work Mr. Bimmer! It also helps to slide the pipe into the timing cover BEFORE installing the seal, so you can make a mark on the pipe (with a Sharpie marker) showing full insertion. Then when you're pressing the pipe through the seal later, you can see exactly how far you need to go.

[@backyardhooper06]

Why is this blurred like a japenese corno?

[@Uroparts]

Hi, the rear end of the aluminum pipe is now manufactured with an angled shoulder. This design update eliminates the need for the angled white plastic spacer (which is now blurred in the video) that was provided in the original version of the kit.

[@niaditmas]

WHY IS STUFF BLOTTED OUT

[@Uroparts]

Hi, the rear end of the aluminum pipe is now manufactured with an angled shoulder. This design update eliminates the need for the angled white plastic spacer (which is now blurred in the video) that was provided in the original version of the kit.

[@7300Marlo]

How much pressure for the test

[@reinierweerts6923]

Can I expect these seals to also last longer that just replacing it with a standard pipe? Or is it just easier to again replace when the time comes?

[@Uroparts]

Hi Reiner, good question! We have a lifetime warranty on our Coolant Pipe, but we never get requests for replacement seals. We've been selling this kit for almost ten years, so the seals must be going strong so far. If the seals ever do need to be replaced, it would be relatively simple to remove the collapsible pipe to replace them.

[@KennethBostonian]

Do not use original tube. It’s inferior. It’s just a fact.

[@jmland]

I am in the middle of installing this part but am having trouble with getting the rubber ring at the timing cover side of the engine to seat properly. After removing the old rubber ring, I cleaned the metal groove out with a wire brush and wiped it clean. Then I lubricated all surfaces of the new rubber ring and installed it in the groove, making sure that the flat end of the ring was facing the front of the car. I have gotten it to seat in the groove, but there is still a tiny lip sticking up on a portion of the ring facing the rear of the car, that is preventing the collapsible pipe from being fully inserted. I have tried pressing the ring into the groove with the smooth rounded edge of a pick tool, but no matter how hard I try, the ring will not fully seat into the groove. Is there anything else I can try that will help seat the ring?

[@Uroparts]

You should use a light coating silicone grease only on the seal when installing it; this is specifically made for rubber O-rings. A plastic glass installation trim tool with a small amount of silicone grease applied is the best way to work the seal into the groove. Working around the perimeter with the plastic tool will help to press it in without the risk of damaging the seal. I hope this helps!

[@nomeatoburrito]

@@Uroparts I did use the silicone grease that was supplied with the kit, and only applied it to the o-ring. I also tried using a plastic trim pulling tool that has a smooth flat edge, but it is still not able to fully seat (it is just barely sticking up like 1mm or so in portions, but just will not budge any more). I'm afraid I might be damaging the o-ring will all of this wrestling it into place. Can new o-rings for this kit be purchased separately, just in case?

[@Uroparts]

nomeatoburrito yes we do sell the o-ring separately.

[@nomeatoburrito]

@@Uroparts What is the part number for the O-ring itself?

[@Uroparts]

nomeatoburrito 111414399752

[@RenStarFilm]

Thank you

[@adamtaylor-d2j]

Looking at purchasing one of these for my n62. Can you tell me what the seals are made of ? Are they Vito seals ?

[@Uroparts]

Hi, this kit has EPDM seals (as does the factory BMW pipe), with is the ideal material for coolant. Viton is generally used for oil seals, but would also be acceptable for coolant.

[@MrRobertrobles916]

Does the valley pan need to be replaced as well, or should the coolant pipe be sufficient enough to stop the leak?

[@Uroparts]

Hi R Robles, you'll need to remove the valley pan to access the coolant transfer pipe, which means you'll need to thoroughly clean the sealing surfaces and use a new valley pan gasket when re-installing the valley pan. Definitely don't reuse the old valley pan gasket.

[@eapinc31]

Almost impossible to install the front seal. .BMW mechanic spent more than 2 hours just to put seal in right position. Very ,very hard many people give up on this job because of front seal cleaning and installation.

[@Uroparts]

Hi Nick, if the technician installs the seal backwards, it's very difficult to insert the pipe without catching the edge of the seal with the pipe, which pushes the seal out of its groove. The inner bevel of the seal should point toward the back of the engine, so the pipe can smoothly slide into the seal without catching.

[@miguelarvidal]

Why do you censure the the installation of the white nylon packing piece

[@Uroparts]

Hi Miguel, the rear end of the aluminum pipe is now manufactured with an angled shoulder. This design update eliminates the need for the angled white plastic spacer (which is now blurred in the video) that was provided in the original version of the kit.

[@r1crs2009]

Hi I have some sort of leak from the rear and it keeps coming out of the flywheel are , if I’m correct I think it’s the rear seal that’s going bad on the valley pan to where it’s letting it seap down into the flywheel what do you think

[@Uroparts]

Hi Chris, your engine is leaking coolant from the flywheel area? Your suspicion sounds plausible, but the only way to confirm it is to dig in there or have a mechanic diagnose it.

[@Jonesy-dv3bj]

There are holes in the valley that drain the leaked coolant to the back of the engine. Mine leaked from the back of the engine. Nothing from the weephole. As soon as I opened it up it was immediately clear that the seal on the coolant transfer pipe had failed.

[@anthonyk]

Are the o ring replacements in the kit Viton?

[@Uroparts]

Hi Anthony, Viton is an ideal seal material for exposure to hot oil. EPDM is the preferred seal material for exposure to coolant, especially in cold winter weather when the vehicle is parked overnight. URO Kit 11 14 1 439 975-PRM includes EPDM seals. Viton isn't recommended for temperatures lower than -4° F, while EPDM is good to -49° F.

[@anthonyk]

@@Uroparts is the EPDM better then the factory seal? If so what is the factory seal made of?

[@Uroparts]

@@anthonyk Hi Anthony, the seal on the factory one-piece pipe is also EPDM, which the OEM vulcanizes to the pipe (which is where it corrodes).

[@Pantimoto]

The tube i ordered, the one facing the front of the engine, is cut at an angle, what orientation should it be when inserting?

[@Uroparts]

Hi Uzi, the section with the angled shoulder faces the REAR of the engine. The rear end of the pipe (toward the firewall) has the angled shoulder, which must be rotated until it matches the angle of the inner wall on the back of the engine block. Then you'll be able to see the lock ring groove, and snap the lock ring in place. Please see this sentence in the video description above: "Grabbing both sections of the tube firmly, hold the front half in place and slide the rear section back into the block until it clicks home, being sure to rotate the tube so that the angled shoulder of the pipe matches the angle of the block. This should just expose the ring groove allowing the pre-installed locking ring to be slid forward into place." Please see the 12-pages of printed instructions that came with the kit, which explains everything and has lots of detailed photos.

[@radianm6]

I ordered this kit from you a couple years back. Can I order just the front main gasket? I want to replace again while I have from timing cover off?

[@Uroparts]

Yes you can absolutely order a new seal kit. Please use this link to purchase it: www.rockauto.com/en/parts/%C3%BCro+parts,111414399752,coolant+pipe+o-ring,11571

[@radianm6]

@@Uroparts can I re-use locking ring?

[@Uroparts]

@@radianm6 Yes

[@radianm6]

@@Uroparts thank you

[@radianm6]

Well I ordered the seals from there 2 weeks ago and still has not arrived or gave me updated tracking...Help!?.. I'm trying to get this car done asap as it's already been down 3 months.

[@LogicDecoded]

On a different note, my coolant keeps running out, and I noticed that its wet right on top of my water pump, is this because of a coolant transfer pipe issue or something else? Thanks

[@Uroparts]

Hi LC, is it leaking from the little weep hole in the timing cover (located to the left of the water pump), or leaking from the water pump flange? Coolant coming out of the weep hole means the transfer pipe seal is leaking, and coolant at the water pump flange means the water pump seal is failing. Hope that helps!

[@davidmontufar1172]

I am currently In the middle if doing this repair. I purchased the updated kit without the plastic guide piece, but for some reason i am having trouble getting the pipe to enter far enough into the timing cover side for the spiral lock to slide up in its groove. It appears the pipe needs to enter further in on the timing cover side. I push it in and feel a slight "thud" but not a "click" Any advise?

[@Uroparts]

Hi David, feeling the "thud" is a good sign. Did you happen to notice the angled shoulder on the "back" half of the tube (that goes into the back of the block)? The angled shoulder needs to be rotated to match the slight angle of the block casting. If the rear pipe is indexed at the wrong angle, the mismatched angles could be taking up the last bit of space needed to reveal the groove for the lock ring. Take a look and let us know if that solves it.

[@Andy-bm6zo]

@@Uroparts Hi, i noticed that it is angled, but assumed it was due to manufacturing tolerances. I was able to press pipe in and just barely expose grove to install lock ring. It went pretty smooth, however... i'm seeing very small seepage again on top of water pump area. Is it possible it was installed incorrectly? Car is N62B44A from E53 X5. How common is it to need the spacers? I am worried now that it is still leaking. I drove the car and coolant went down slightly, about half way in the expansion tank. I assumed this is due to air purging. I guess time will tell if i am still leaking... any advice here? Thank you.

[@Uroparts]

​@@Andy-bm6zo Hi Andy, the angled shoulder on the "rear" end of the pipe (that goes into back of the block) is intentional, so the pipe needs to be indexed to match the angle of the inner wall of the block casting. If the rear pipe isn't rotated to match and angle of the inner wall of the block, the mismatched angles will take up space needed to reveal the groove for the lock ring. Since you were able to install the lock ring, you must have indexed the pipe correctly. The spacer rings aren't actually necessary (since the ends of the pipe are sealed around the outer diameter), but some people feel better if the pipe is "tight", even though the pipe isn't going to move once the lock ring is installed. We agree that the initial coolant level drop is probably due to air purging. It sounds like you've installed the kit correctly, but do keep an eye on the seepage to see if it stops.

[@emmanuelmendez8142]

Hi a have a leaking on the top of the valley pan I installed a Uro pipe two years ago and put new valley pan I only see coolant on top of the valley pan no coolant coming out of the weep hole you think I have to change the pipe again

[@Uroparts]

Hi Emmanuel, if there's no coolant coming out of the weep hole, the URO pipe is fine. Sounds like you might need a new valley pan gasket though, or could coolant be leaking from a hose and migrating to the top of the valley pan?

[@robertfaulkner7152]

@@Uroparts Please clarify why he would need a new valley pan gasket if no coolant is coming out the weep hole. That would mean there isn't any coolant in the valley pan...Would I be correct? Because if the pipe isn't leaking the valley pan should be dry?

[@Uroparts]

​@@robertfaulkner7152 Hi Robert, the valley pan cavity is actually a coolant passage, and the pipe merely directs the flow of coolant through the filled chamber to the back of the block. Coolant only comes out of the weep hole if the seal at the front of the pipe leaks, which fills the empty cavity in the timing cover until the level is high enough to flow out of the weep hole. Coolant escaping the top edge of the valley pan means the valley pan gasket is leaking, which doesn't have anything to do with the seals on the ends of the pipe. Look at the hose neck on the cover for the N62 valley pan, and how coolant flows around the pipe and through the block and cover.

[@MrTrusty36]

do we have to replace the intake gaskets as well

[@Uroparts]

Hi, our Coolant Transfer Pipe installation instructions can be found here: apaindustries.com/apasite/parts/undefined/11141439975PRM.pdf Please check your BMW repair manual to see what needs to be done prior to installing the pipe, and after installing the pipe.

[@artiskastrati8486]

where to order this tube please, I have the problem with my BMW 645 E64 ?

[@Uroparts]

Hi, just search online for "URO Parts 11141439975PRM" to find a retailer offering this repair kit.

[@robertfaulkner7152]

How long is your warranty? Does it cover labor by an authorized BMW tech?

[@Uroparts]

Hi Robert, our "URO Premium" items (part number ends with "PRM", such as Coolant Pipe 11141439975-PRM) are superior to OEM in material and/or design, and have a Lifetime Warranty. Our standard items are covered by an impressive two-year warranty. Installation labor is not included.

[@MrTrusty36]

what parts do have to be removed to get this job done

[@Uroparts]

Hi, we don't have licenses to publish vehicle repair manuals, so you'd have to look online (check out forums and KZbin videos), or better yet get a repair manual from BMW or Haynes-Chilton. The factory design is a long pipe which can only be installed from the front of the engine with the timing cover removed, which can require over 20 hours of expensive shop labor. Using our collapsible coolant transfer pipe kit eliminates the need to remove the timing cover, which saves a lot of time and money.

[@MrTrusty36]

thank you sir i will be performing this job

[@mesparza2180]

Any detailed diagram of hose layout for 745 li 2004 bmw

[@Uroparts]

Hi M. Esparza, please consult your BMW factory repair manual for the hose schematic.

[@kanuemeka8319]

can this pipe leakage make the coolant to mix with the engine oil? inside the engine?

[@Uroparts]

Hi Kanu, if the rubber seal at the front of the coolant transfer pipe begins to leak, coolant will trickle out of the weep hole in the front timing cover. The situation is exactly the same with a URO or any other brand coolant transfer pipe. If the o-rings between the two sections of the URO pipe leak (we've never heard of it happening), coolant could leak from the pipe into the coolant chamber beneath the valley pan, which wouldn't hurt anything. The pipe is surrounded by coolant, and simply directs flow through the chamber. Hope that helps!

[@leomoon2275]

I was in the middle of doing this job when applying pressure I was not able to collapse pipe back not by twisting or anything...the 2 pieces of just got stuck together and I'm currently not able to separate the outer and inner tubes...I did add lube so I'm baffled as to why they got stuck...any suggestions or advice?

[@Uroparts]

Hi Leo, the inner and outer tubes don't actually touch each other after installation, since they are separated by three o-rings. Perhaps there wasn't quite enough grease, and one of the o-rings rolled out of it's groove between the tubes, making the tubes very tight? Were you able to get it loosened?

[@sethflynn1]

@@Uroparts I have the same issue any tips?

[@Uroparts]

​@@sethflynn1 Hi Seth, you've probably already resolved this, but for everyone else it helps to smear a thin layer of grease around the inside of the outer section of pipe in the o-ring area. What might be happening is the small amount of grease applied directly to the o-rings could be rubbing off when the dry outer tube is slipped over the o-rings. Increasing lubrication on the inside of the outer tube should greatly reduce o-ring drag and stickiness.

[@frankenstein6071]

Do you have to drain the coolant to change the Transfer pipe?

[@Uroparts]

Hi, we recommend fully draining the coolant. Perhaps someone here has performed the pipe replacement after only a partial drain, and can comment?

[@justins8085]

I've got a problem my front seal fits not perfect in the middle. it seems that is impossible to fit it perfectly.. any idea?

[@Uroparts]

Hi Justin, you're having difficulty tucking the front seal into the groove between the block and the front cover? (The side with the inner bevel should point toward the rear of the engine, so the pipe can slide in easily.)

[@justins8085]

yes i know but the seal never fit in the middle..

[@Uroparts]

​@@justins8085 Hi Justin, please email photos to "sales at uro parts dot com" (remove spaces) with your contact info, so we can better understand where you're having difficulty. We'll be happy to help via email or over the phone.

[@nakre15]

why sensor it?!?!

[@Uroparts]

We no longer include a wedge-shaped nylon spacer, so it's blurred out. We now angle the shoulder of the metal pipe instead, so the angled spacer is no longer needed.

[@E39M5SPEED]

How much is this kit?

[@Uroparts]

Hi, it's easiest to do a search for "URO 11141439975-PRM" to see current prices from online retailers.

[@AndresScored]

Why did you blurr out the end?

[@Uroparts]

Hi, the rear end of the aluminum pipe is now manufactured with an angled shoulder. This design update eliminates the need for the angled white plastic spacer (which is now blurred out in the video) that was provided in the original version of the kit many years ago.

[@rab2826]

How do you know if the coolant is leaking from the pipe seal?

[@Uroparts]

You could put dye into the system, perform a pressure test and look for an obvious leak path. But my opinion if there's more than 50k miles the car, then the original tube seal is towards the end of it's life and should be replaced because it will leak soon if it is not the major source of the leak currently. Typically the tube is replaced and the water pump replaced at the same time, which typically fixes nearly all the leaks emanating from the timing cover area.

[@mikemoyercell]

There is a weep hole, if it leaking from the weep hole your pipe seal is leeking

[@r1crs2009]

Mike Moyer mine is leaking and it’s all coming out of the flywheel area so to me it seems like this valley pan has to be done because of the rear seal 🤷‍♂️

[@stunnerla]

@@r1crs2009 I know this was a long time ago. But I am curious to know. Was that the issue? I am experiencing the same issue.

[@haileystrong8918]

Why the hell is stuff blurred out?

[@Uroparts]

Hi, the rear end of the aluminum pipe is now manufactured with an angled shoulder. This design update eliminates the need for the angled white plastic spacer (which is now blurred in the video) that was provided in the original version of the kit.

[@abcdef8367]

Can you sent me The link to buy it and Can you tell me The price too

[@Uroparts]

Go to this link to purchase: www.rockauto.com/en/parts/üro+parts,11141439975PRM

[@gudmundurjonasson1334]

why do you blurry some part of your imfi video?

[@Uroparts]

Hi Gudmundur, the rear end of the aluminum pipe (toward back of engine) is now manufactured with an angled shoulder. This design improvement eliminates an angled white plastic spacer (which is now blurred in the video) that was used in the first version of the coolant transfer pipe kit. Eliminating the spacer makes it easier to match the pipe angle with the angle of the inner back wall of the block, which must be done to fully expand the inner & outer pipes and reveal the lock ring groove.

[@77goofyguy]

Wonder if anyone has ever tried Bar's Leak for this problem?

[@Uroparts]

It's undoubtedly been tried as a short-term fix (unscrupulous used car dealers have actually tapped and plugged the weep hole in the timing cover to hide the leak), but replacing the coolant transfer pipe and seals is really the best long-term solution.

[@sylwsmith7712]

I have a question, what if I put in a pipe a little narrower, like the one that is leaking, put it in after unscrewing the pump, I think it would be ok, the pipe would be a little narrower but I think it would do its job, does anyone have the internal dimensions of this leaking pipe, coolant transfer pipe?

[@BrianPhase90]

How many shop hours would you estimate this project?

[@Uroparts]

Shibby Dibby Doo under 10hrs

[@Pantimoto]

Why is the video blurred? Something wrong? Illegal?

[@Uroparts]

Hi Uzi, we redesigned the main seal in 2017 so it now has the bevel on the INSIDE, which makes it much easier to insert the pipe. The rear end of the pipe is now manufactured with an angled shoulder, which eliminates the need for an angled white plastic spacer (which is now blurred in the video) used in the original kit design.

[@Pantimoto]

@@Uroparts so i bit the bullet and took my chances with this, my order arrived but like you said, there are missing parts and some parts don't look anything like in the video. The main seal is different, and there are now 3 rings in a packet. What are they for? And how do i insert the metal ring around the pipe?

[@Uroparts]

@@Pantimoto Hi Uzi, please consult the 12-page printed instructions that came with the kit, which explains everything and has lots of detailed photos. You can also downloaded the written instructions if you'd like an electronic copy: apaindustries.com/apasite/parts/undefined/11141439975PRM.pdf

[@r1crs2009]

What nylon piece all I got was 3 aluminum shims

[@Uroparts]

Chris Rican's World we no longer include a nylon piece. Instead we angled the metal pipe so it’s no longer needed.

[@r1crs2009]

URO Parts thank you for replying so quick I’m installing as we speak

[@r1crs2009]

URO Parts 3 shims to me are only used if there is extra play meaning a bit loose am I correct

[@Uroparts]

Chris Rican's World yes that is correct

[@JoelLinn93]

Is this some kind of Japanese adult movie or why the blurring?

[@Uroparts]

Hi Joel, good question! We updated the design of the pipe a bit to make installation even easier, and blurred out pieces of the original kit that are no longer necessary.

[@张张坚锋]

where can get this part?

[@Uroparts]

If you have the N62 V8 engine, search online for "URO 11 14 1 439 975-PRM", or if you have the N63 V12 engine, search for "URO 11 14 7 500 355-PRM". Thanks!

[@jdmbucky]

WHATS THE PURPOSE OF BLURRING OUT OBJECTS IN THE VIDEO...

[@Uroparts]

Hi, the rear end of the pipe is now manufactured with an angled shoulder, which eliminates the need for an angled white plastic spacer (which is now hidden in the video) that was provided in the original kit.

[@piotradamczyk8630]

Where can i buy this pipe ?

[@Uroparts]

Please go to www.rockauto.com and use the Part Number Search tab at the top to search for Part# 11141439975PRM

[@victorboev9816]

Hi how can i order one set?

[@Uroparts]

www.rockauto.com/en/parts/%C3%BCro+parts,11141439975PRM,coolant+hose+/+pipe,10068

[@Pantimoto]

Installed it but the rear part of the pipe doest click because of the shape of the pipe, it cant go any further preventing to see the groove to put the locking ring into.please, your customer support is terrible, in the boundary of scam. No customer support number or email on website, its ridiculous

[@Uroparts]

Hi Uzi, you can quickly email us or find our phone number on the "Contact Us" page of our website (apaindustries.com/contact). It sounds like you're trying to install the pipe backwards. The rear end of the pipe (toward the firewall) has the angled shoulder, which must be rotated until it matches the angle of the inner wall on the back of the engine block. Then you'll be able to see the lock ring groove, and snap the lock ring in place. Please see the 12-pages of printed instructions that came with the kit, which explains everything and has lots of detailed photos. You can also downloaded the written instructions if you'd like an electronic copy: apaindustries.com/apasite/parts/undefined/11141439975PRM.pdf

[@taylorsons4303]

I haven't heard any clicks when installing this pipe...smh I've installing 3 of these pipes I've never heard a click..lol

[@Uroparts]

Hi Taylor, you're absolutely correct, "click" was a poor choice of words. It would be more accurate to say it's more of a ** clunk feeling ** when the pipe bottoms out in the timing cover when pushed all the way forward. If the pipe isn't pushed all the way forward through the front seal, the snap ring groove won't be revealed. Thanks for your help!

[@taylorsons4303]

@@Uroparts no problem Sir I hear others saying it. But I know what you meant. Great Video on details Sir💯

[@time-4-watches]

Is this pipe made of stainless steel? If not - will it corrode over time (just like OEM part)?

[@Uroparts]

It's actually the bonded rubber seal that fails on the OE pipe. The URO pipe is aluminum just like OE, but the beauty is the collapsible design allows replacement in 1/4 of the time (or less) compared to using an OEM pipe. The high-quality URO seal is a compression fit, and doesn't rely on being bonded to the pipe to seal.

[@r1crs2009]

URO Parts how much is the kit

[@Uroparts]

Hi Chris, just do a search for "URO 11141439975-PRM" to see current prices from online retailers.

[@javbeta669]

What a design flaw...🤦🏻🤦🏻 not to mention the stupid alternator bracket seal too🙄

[@Uroparts]

Hi Jav, we also have an upgrade for the Alternator Bracket Seals! Find more info here: apaindustries.com/site/media/uro-data-bmw-oil-cooler-bracket-gaskets-12317507808prm-12317507807prm.pdf

[@garygatten1154]

Wish I had known about your alternator bracket gasket before I replaced mine...