Using Luring & Chasing to Speed Up Your Dog Training. Episode 12

[@vtace1890]

thank you

[@NateSchoemer]

My pleasure, vtac e. Thanks for watching and for supporting the channel.

[@blueberrypancakes688]

Thank you ! Your videos have so much information that’s easy to follow - however I will be getting a beagle puppy soon. I am wondering if your various strategies will work in training my puppy, as I have heard Beagles can be unusually difficult to train. Thanks again for all of your thorough information that you put forth in your videos.

[@NateSchoemer]

Copy and paste! :) LOL! Thanks David! Yes, beagle's can be a little more difficult to train in obedience than some other breeds, but not impossible. Follow the training in my basic obedience series and you should have some great results. also, don't hesitate to reach out to me when you have new questions when the puppy arrives. Thanks again!

[@haroldcuaresma8481]

Sir thanks for the detailed video! But can i ask if what comes first? The LURING or THE TRAINING THAT THE DOG LOOKS AT YOU.

[@NateSchoemer]

My pleasure! Engagement training comes first. The basic obedience series is designed to be watched in order. If you want to have a clear understanding of dog training and develop the essential skills needed to fix the majority of issues that dog owners face, start with episode one and work your way through. I hope this helps and thanks for the question. :)

[@haroldcuaresma8481]

Thank you sir

[@theleviathan0]

What do you suggest using for treats ? I'm struggling luring my 9 week old border collie. I have been using vital essentials but it does not illicit a chase

[@NateSchoemer]

I like vital essentials. If that doesn't work, try a different brand of freeze-dried dog food. Sometimes dogs like to work for a kibble, such as orijen.

[@eselick]

Hi Nate - new member here We're trying to teach our 4 month old Aussidoodle good luring behavior. When we lure at the start of a meal using his kibbles, he just starts lunging for the hand with the food instead of following in a more relaxed way. Any ideas? Thanks - Elliot

[@eselick]

Hi Nate - I just found your response to a similar question below suggesting closing your fist when the dog is too rough. We'll try that and see how it goes.

[@NateSchoemer]

Sounds great! Let me know how it goes and if you need additional guidance. :)

[@whitjacklavaldez788]

Derby seems like a calm puppy. But what do you do when working with a high energy 2 month old malinois that nips at you hand, paws at it and jumps at you arm when practicing luring? Do you correct it, o do you do that later? Does he already need to know the meaning of the word "no"? TYSM, love your videos 💕

[@NateSchoemer]

Thank you! I would suggest not giving the reward until he's doing what you like. If he keeps trying to get the reward without success, he'll have to adjust in order to get the treat. Patience helps a lot with the high energy Malinois. :)

[@whitjacklavaldez788]

@@NateSchoemer Will do, thanks!

[@jmj_d5207]

@@whitjacklavaldez788 how did it turn out my german mix husky does the same thing. ?

[@jmj_d5207]

So i got a german husky 10-12 weeks old has begun to chew on shoes and sofa is this normal behaviour at this age any advice HIGHLY apreciated 😬

[@NateSchoemer]

Yes, it's a normal behavior. I would suggest checking out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6jUkKatZd-AqJI If you want it to stop, you may need to add corrections to the pups training. Corrections in dog training is when we are using positive punishment to stop an undesired behavior. First, we must keep in mind that everything our dogs do is based on motivation. The motivation to access something pleasant, or the motivation to prevent something unpleasant. If your dog is practicing a behavior that is fun (self-reinforcing behavior), then you have two options to stop this. One; make sure to prevent the dog from being able to practice the undesired behavior. The second option is to use a correction to stop the behavior. A correction can be anything the dog doesn't like. So in the end, the motivation not to receive the correction must override the motivation to do the undesired behavior. If you use a correction and the undesired behavior continues, then the correction is not high enough. Here's an analogy to help understand this concept. It's important to remember that every dog has their bank account (their correction level). Some dogs are very wealthy, and some are penniless, just like people. Let's say that you are speeding down the highway and a police officer pulls you over and writes you a 25 cent-speeding ticket. The second the officer leaves, you will start speeding again because the ticket wasn't high enough to get you to change your behavior. But let's say he pulls you over and writes you a ten-million-dollar speeding ticket, now it's so high that you will avoid driving altogether, and you will be very stressed out. On the other hand, let's say he pulls you over and writes you a $125 speeding ticket. That would be enough to get you to slow down, without causing you to avoid the behavior of driving altogether. This is what we must do with our dogs; we need to correct them at a level that is adequate to their bank account. If the dog doesn't stop the bad behavior, then you may have to increase the correction. Just be sure to correct the dog in the act. In addition, proper corrections should not create a fearful dog. Usually fear when correcting a dog is due to the owner being angry, yelling at the dog, or correcting too hard. When we use a correction, it's simple cause and effect. A correction should never be personal and you should never yell at your dog. Once the correction is done, then we praise and reward our dog when they're doing what we like. If your dog knows why he/she is being corrected and knows how to prevent the correction from happening, then you shouldn't create any fear. Leash pop: This is when you make a snapping motion with the dog’s leash to engage the training-collar to give the dog a correction (a positive-punishment). If you're using a flat collar and that's not working, then you may need to use a prong collar or remote training collar to stop the behavior.

[@Matthewhew30]

Hi Nate, I'm struggling to find your loose leash video on your channel. I had it when I bought your online training but thats since closed down. Could you put a link to the youtube vid? Thanks

[@NateSchoemer]

Hey Matt! I sent you an email giving you access to the video. Cheers!

[@Matthewhew30]

@@NateSchoemer Thanks Nate, no idea how I missed that 🤔 🤣

[@zaramzaram9594]

Your videos are verry helpfull, thank you! One thing tho, my 4 and a half months gsd wont lure... he starts just fine but after an (little) amount of time stops and just lays down or goes the other way like the food in my hands doesn't interest him. Automaticlly I can't do anything with him becouse he won't follow the food... Any advice?

[@NateSchoemer]

Thanks! Use meal time as training time and teach your pup leash pressure. You can then use the leash cue to teach all the obedience behaviors. kzbin.info/www/bejne/b32bpX5torh3Z5I

[@zaramzaram9594]

@@NateSchoemer Do you do online advicing (for a price or for free, doesn't matter)? I would like to talk to a professional like you and show you my dog and his behavior since I am from another country and can't hire you to train my dog.

[@eselick]

Hi Nate - We're still working on luring and trying to get our puppy to be gentler with it. Our problem is that he often paws at the hand that is doing the luring. Do you have any ideas for helping him to stop the pawing? A big thanks for all the work you do.

[@NateSchoemer]

Thanks! Yes, when he paws at your hand, just don't reward him. Check out this video: facebook.com/NateSchoemer/videos/1161986621108428

[@darrentupman8143]

If yes is your continuation marker shouldn’t you say free instead, idk I’m confused at the two types now

[@NateSchoemer]

Here's a section from my manual that should help: Firstly, there are the two positive types of markers: The first one is the continuation marker (I like to use the word “yes”). This is a word or sound that lets the dog know that they are correct and will be delivered a reward. It’s called a continuation marker because unlike the terminal marker, it doesn’t release the dog. Meaning, if your dog is in a command stay, you can use this marker without releasing the dog from the stay. However, if your dog is not in a command stay, then this marker just means they’ll be rewarded. Therefore, this often confuses people because of the terminology “continuation”. This is why it’s easier to understand by what it predicts: A continuation marker predicts a reward. That’s it. It doesn’t change the circumstances, so if the dog is in a stay, they remain in the stay, and if the dog is not in a stay, then they remain free from the stay. In contrast, we have the terminal markers (I like to use the word “free”). These release dogs from commanded positions as well as guaranteeing a reward. Ex.: If a dog was in a sitting position and you use your terminal marker, they are released from that position and will be given a reward (indicating the sit behavior is finished).

[@ivanaliev4962]

Can I teach this to my 1.5 years old dog?

[@NateSchoemer]

Yes. :)

[@Sleeplessinsimi]

Hi, I am trying to do this technique with my 2 year old pup, but he does not push into my hand, he just tries to lick the treat out. What am I doing wrong?

[@NateSchoemer]

The main idea is to get the dog to walk forward, so if your dog walks forward at all, even one step, mark and reward. Gradually ask for more steps as your dog starts to understand the concept.

[@CSK9PA]

What do u do if the the dog won’t lure . He just stares at me ?

[@HaltWhoGoesThere]

Does this work for dogs/puppies that have little to no prey drive?

[@NateSchoemer]

You may have to build the dogs food drive and that would help with the prey drive. :)

[@sahilbose9266]

How long does it take for the dog to learn a command

[@NateSchoemer]

Each dog is different and will learn at different speeds. :)

[@sahilbose9266]

I have a 3 months old standard dachshund he is stubborn can he be trained from your videos of basic obedience playlist

[@karennorth9318]

When I try to do this with my 17 week GSD he tends to bite at my hand instead of nudging into it. Any recommendations to help avoid this?

[@NateSchoemer]

Try closing your hand into a fist with food in it. Then wait till he stops biting at it, and instead try's to get the food gently. Once he starts to lick and not bite, slowly open your hand. If he goes to bite again, close your hand to ensure he can only get the treat when he is taking it nicely. I hope that helps! :)

[@karennorth9318]

Nate Schoemer thanks. I’ll give that a try. He nips and bites at me a lot. I’m thinking it’s because I’m the one in the family who plays with him the most (getting him excited) and does all the treat training. Thanks again for the suggestion.

[@margaretkotopoulous717]

How do you introduce your dog to a cat?

[@NateSchoemer]

To be safe, I would muzzle train the dog first. Then when introducing I would keep the dog on a leash and use my "wrong" marker (Negative reinforcement), if the dog starts to do a behavior that I don't like. Check out this video to see how I use the "Wrong" marker: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iF7HdYxshrV4hKc Cheers!

[@The_K9_Company_INDIA]

Hi Nate, Hope you are doing well So! The issue is My Female gsd is 5 month old But she is too lazy. I want my dog to be hyper active and foody too So she can learn easily and fastly. Can you help me to make my dog very active and foody.

[@NateSchoemer]

Every dog is going to have different levels of motivation. You can increase the food drive by making your dog work for every bite of food. As far as toy drive goes, you can do an exercise called drive building. You can see an example of that in my "teach your dog to bark" episode. I'll be making a video in the next few weeks on drive building. Hope that helps! :)

[@hyperxplayz9162]

i need help my 7 month border collie has no interest in training, every time i want her to come get the treat from my hand or lure her she just flops down on the floor giving up even though she know most of the commands. how can i motivate or make training more fun for her?

[@NateSchoemer]

Great question and this is why I use mealtime as training time. Meaning, I make the dog/puppy work for every bite. When they work for it, it increases the value of the food. With a puppy, I will often start with a high-quality dry food during the training process. I also usually give the puppy raw goat milk from answers, to help ensure the dog is getting enough quality nutrition. In addition, I train with freeze-dried dog food, but that can be very pricey. Usually, a high-quality kibble will be okay. I transition them to raw when all the main training is completed. However, I do continue to train the dog for the entire life of the dog. It’s just as important and playing and bonding. I hope that helps and if possible, consider supporting my channel. Thanks! :) www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer

[@hyperxplayz9162]

@@NateSchoemer thank u very much but which high quality kibble should I buy since my dog is a very picky eater?

[@NateSchoemer]

I would suggest finding a 5 star kibble off of dogfoodadvisor.com

[@rosiehoggmascall3438]

My dog doesn't like treats - how do you lure with toys? (he loves his toys)

[@NateSchoemer]

Here's a section from my dog training manual that I believe will be helpful. Make him work for all his food. Before we start training our dogs, we must know what motivates them. With any dog I start training, I like to begin with food and luring. Now, something I’m often asked by people is, “How do I train my dog when my dog doesn’t have any food motivation?” First, let me start by saying that every dog has food motivation, what varies is how intense the food motivation is. If you have a dog with low food motivation, there are techniques that you can use to increase that food drive. Most dog’s low food motivation is caused by a few things: Either the dog has been overfed, free-fed, given very high value food such as cooked steak, or sometimes just feeding out of a bowl can cause this. As a result, the dog just doesn’t care that much about getting fed as a reward. A common technique that we like to use to correct a lack of food drive is food deprivation. For this you will want to use mealtime as a training time. Bring the dog out and offer food to train, if the dog is not interested, no big deal, put the food away and try again at dinner. Again, if the dog is not interested, put the food away and try again the next day. Continue to do this until your dog is willing to work for the food. Be sure not to give the dog any food between training. The dog has to know that he will only get food that he works for. I’ve used this technique on dozens of dogs and it’s worked every time.

[@julianaavila2582]

Hi! I have a 6 month GSD, and I’m trying to work with luring, but she always goes for my hand. How can I stop her from doing this ?

[@NateSchoemer]

I would have to see video to know what you're doing wrong or what the puppy is doing. Thank you for supporting my channel, I really appreciate it. Unfortunately, due to an overwhelming amount of questions I receive, I'm no longer able to answer all of them. If you would like me to answer your dog training inquiries, consider becoming a patron to help support my channel. I’m able to focus attention on patrons and give them priority. You can sign up at www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer. Thank you again!

[@JK-pp2xl]

Nate, my dog will bark when he downs or backs up. He sits fine. How can I teach him not to bark while he is doing this? Thanks.

[@NateSchoemer]

If he is barking because he is having fun with the training, then it can become difficult to stop. Here's why; if I tell my dog to down and my dog downs and barks at the same time, I can't correct her for barking, since she is doing the command I just asked her to perform. In her mind, she wouldn't understand why she is being corrected and it can cause a lot of confusion. Since you would be correcting your dog when your dog is doing what you are asking for. If you want your dog to stop barking during those commands, then only reward when your dog does it without barking. However, this won't guarantee that your dog will stop barking doing those commands, but it should help some. I hope this helps and thanks for the question. :)

[@JK-pp2xl]

@@NateSchoemer Thanks. Seems like he's more frustrated that he has to work for a treat, haha. He barks a lot less if a toy is his reward instead of a treat.

[@justtere]

My new dog tries to eat my hand. How do I get him to take the treat and not eat me? I call him my terriorier.

[@NateSchoemer]

If he's aggressively biting at the food, then a trick is to hold the food in your fist. if he tries biting at the food, then the hand stays closed. Once he's being gentle, then slowly start to open your hand. Instantly close it again, if he starts to bite too hard. Repeat until he knows that he needs to take the food nicely. The idea is basic cause and effect. I hope this helps! In addition, the way you hold the food will make a difference as well. Check out this video and jump to 5:25 kzbin.info/www/bejne/anS2oIuFhrt7q7M I hope this helps. Cheers!

[@kaitlinarnett5755]

My dog barks at everything including me he is friendly but it gets annoying. How do I stop this?

[@NateSchoemer]

Hi Kaitlin, I posted a video answering your question in my KZbin Facebook group. You can get access to the group here: facebook.com/groups/NateSchoemers Thanks!

[@kaitlinarnett5755]

@@NateSchoemer thank you!

[@VinnyBully]

I dont understand when you say yes, vs. free

[@NateSchoemer]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5y9aKiZpbBsqcU

[@hereholdthiswillya]

I like your style, but I don't know why you want him to push at your hand. To my mind it's a form of demanding which I don't appreciate. I suspect you have a reason and I'm curious what it is.

[@NateSchoemer]

Thanks! It helps teach the dog to understand to move into the lure, which helps with many more complicated exercises.

[@diggler64]

wtf... im actually luring now !