Variable Volume oil Pump LETS DISECT GM LT based Gen V verses LS based

[@SSbigblock454]

I've already had a failure with one of those pumps on a 2017 LT4 with about 10K miles on it back in 2019. All the vanes just blew apart. The parts guy at the dealership told me GM changed the part number 2-times since 2017. Hopefully they fixed the problem. Mine's still going strong since then.

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

So like the image I found and plopped up mud to late video? Crazy, that's the kind of stuff we all need to hear about. Thanks for the post with those minor details. Your comment gets a pin up for now.

[@johnthompson941]

I had a co worker had one go on a new 18 under 7000 miles, he called the dealership and they said it is probably gauge failure, drive it in, didn't make it far, took 2 months for them to get the replacement engine, but they gave him a loaner.

[@aprilgeneric8027]

@@johnthompson941 when the 2008 financial crisis happened, the major network news were talking to dealerships and the dealer owners straight up said they would make up the lost revenue on service....what service generates more money than a watter pump replacement, an engine replacement. don't trust dealerships, they are specifically letting people destroy their vehicles despite massive tech service bulletins alerting them to the issues the automakers executives knew damn well about before they started selling them, because how else are they going to part fools from their money sooner rather than later. sister in law was ford VP of customer service secretary.....brother in law is an electrical design engineer at ford also. i get to know things before the public does, like the ford super duty serpentine belt failure issue. i also was the guy to solve it by adding an extra heavy duty bolt to the bottom bracket that would break and lift out causing the belt to slip off. actually i replaced all 3 bottom bolts with higher grade ones because they cheap chinesium chit snapped off at the heads and after you drill one out, you never want to do it again. planned obsolescence was started in the 1930's with light bulbs, it spread to every industry. the new craze is you will own nothing, lease/rent everything, even the extra bells and whistles on product goods. apple, and deere since digital millennium copyright act (DMCA) 2000 and now tesla

[@lawrencekashak]

I just had a '15 with broken vanes in the pickup tube the sliding ring was split in two. At the pivot. The cam and lifters were fine but it started to blister and spin the rod and mains. Maintenance was kept on it i was told. The inside was clean but broken pump. Ended up using a low mile good running L83 and doing the dod delete/ non dod cam, ect , on it. While I was there, I used the Katech performance pump. I think their ring is billet or something better than the iron one. The pump did come with a new solenoid but it broke in shipping.

[@tommofpv6497]

Nice look inside the oil pump! Was curious how they worked on the new GMs 👍 just for info, pumps produce flow, not pressure - restriction to flow creates the pressure. That's a variable displacement vane pump, the pressure in the system changes due to a change in flow of the pump, the pump doesn't change pressure. The pumps displacement is varied using pressure and the spring just as you described tho 👍 From what I understand of the AFM too, there's another relief valve to limit the pressure in the lifters. I would tend to agree with your other thought too - the main relief valve in the pump is probably there to limit pressure spikes and the main control of the system pressure is by varying the displacement of the pump. That's pretty common in modern variable displacement hydraulic systems. Not sure how much I like it or the AFM, as at this point they are just squeezing fractions of a percent out of the engine to meet emissions and fuel economy targets 🤷‍♂️

[@curtisrandell13]

I can’t find any info on the oil inlet pick up tube. You mentioned you can unbolt and remove it, which I did. It doesn’t have a o ring, just a brown glue looking substance.. does anyone know if it’s okay to bolt the inlet tube back on without resealing it? Will oil pressure be low if I don’t remedy the glue type seal? Thanks

[@Kellyoest]

That pump can probably make over 200psi like the transmission pumps of the same design. It needs lots of pressure release.

[@dreece2000]

That’s what I was thinking. What a God awful design. I guess the old turbo 400 style pump was too good

[@stephenoltman759]

I have removed the pump without removing the oil pan by drilling two holes through the front of the pan to access the torx bolt heads. the holes are way above the oil level and after two years have not leaked. plug with silicone and add rubber plug if desired. The pump can be removed by taking the face plate off then the rest will come out a piece at a time. Put a large rag under the pump to block any pieces from falling into the oil pan. reverse to reassemble.

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

I struggle to see how that would work at all. Never had an issue accessing tx bolts to remove. Besides that I'd be causing damage to a customer car and fighting removing a pump to save pulling a pan off. You probably spent as much time doing what you did as it takes to just remove the pan in the first place.

[@jsomething2]

you have me wondering. gm part number 12623423 says it's a variable displacement vane pump for the ls. mostly the hybrids, but said to work on all ls and save a few hp. but if it has vanes instead of gears, maybe less reliable like you say, but I've never heard of one going bad, at least not before the o ring does anyways haha. I'm at 143k on one now, still good pressure at idle.

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Really? I'll have to look into that part number. Wish I could get The chance to work on a hybrid. I never seem to have one come in.

[@jsomething2]

they are odd ball for sure. I'd be really interested in what the pump looks like too, and if anyone has ever dynoed one to see if the hp gain is real. if you ever wanted to dive into the trouble shooting side, dealers won't even hardly touch them anymore. seems mostly what I see on the forums is something simple happens, a module or something, sdgm seems to be common. take it to the dealer, they keep it 3 weeks, run up a bill and give it back still messed up, owner gives up and dumps it as a trade in on something new cause they feel stuck. I feel like these guys would put them on a truck and have them transported to you if you got good at fixing them haha. I honestly really like the thing, it's grown on me after the battery upgrade to lithium. its a hybrid with a tow rating, kinda unheard of. just towed my c6 from TX to FL track and back with it.

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

@@jsomething2 I certainly would have no problem working on them. Just no one ever brings me the darn things. I used to see a few when I worked for somebody else but since I went on my own I never see them at all. I've dove in to a few hybrid jobs and Even a few Ev vehicles in the past. Even diagnosed and replaced a couple of batteries in the Priuses. I used to have a battery from a Prius in my old house for playing around with electronics with. It was nice because I would use a different amount of cells to get a different total voltage all the way up to the 240 plus volts that I had. Kind of fun to play with but when I moved I couldn't fit it on the trailer to take it with me. I just said effort I'll find one someday. Two years later and I haven't even had one in the shop. In fact I haven't had one in the shop for the last 8 years. Not sure why I never see him anymore...

[@jsomething2]

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair if I see anyone posting with issues near South Dakota. I'll mention you might be a shop to look into.

[@alfredomendoza8239]

I wish you were here in Cali 😢

[@juandough6501]

Very informative video, neat design, But not sure I want one.

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Yeah, too much happening. Also check others commenting. Some are claiming failures and it seems they are prone to exploding. I'll pass myself lol.

[@Kellyoest]

That is very much like a 4l60e/700r4 pump.

[@micahap1559]

Pump looks decent to me. No noticable issues right off. Very interesting. Not sure if I see much fuel savings though. If issues arise it seems that the pump pressure will be high and defeat the pressure lowering purpose. Lol The small cavity with sludge appears to be catching any debris slinging down from centripetal force. How does the lower cavity tied to the spring empty? Is the solenoid releasing pressure or introducing pressure?

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

I don't think that's spring cavity was tied to anything. I believe the oil was in there just from it bleeding past the plates and into that cavity.

[@micahap1559]

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I was talking about the lower cavity putting pressure on the spring. Sorry for the strange wording. Lol

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

@@micahap1559 oh, yeah it appears the solenoid pressurizes that power cavity from the upper cavity.

[@aprilgeneric8027]

24:07.... the broken image pump makes every bit of sense where it blew apart as the pressure got to high and over time stress crack veined deeper and deeper where the sweeps allowed that higher undesired pressure into the circle cut drill out at the end of the sweeps. the solenoid or computer senors might be half a second to 300ths of a second to late to alleviate the blow out pressures fast enough. i bet you anything those sweep plate holders were made overseas, this is why i called it chinesium, due to the forging process is not as good as pittsburg steel, and the reworked polluted diluted chinesium metal is recycled steel that is filled with thousands of air bubble pockets which makes them lighter because they are weaker. nonamericans whole steel process from places that are not first world like western europe all have this same problem which makes them prone to incredibly sooner failure. spanish steel is pretty damn good stuff. italy is more pig iron like, but when you don't stamp the bubbles out, you wind up with this crap metal they se for critical components. and the corporate executives on both sides know it and don't care because it's extra pennies per peice for each of them to buy new million dollar yatchs with, they get theirs and screw every one else over.

[@mph5896]

Replace the oil pump if you have it broken down that far. They are known to fail. I just took my 15 Tahoe apart for a pump P06DD.

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Seems they like to grenade from what I've been hearing. This one's still fine but I was sure to shim things correctly when installing.

[@DJEFlizZ215]

Same mom in law 15 Tahoe 103xxx just out of warranty intermittent low oil pressure on dash Po6dd code My pump looks good also so it’s best to assume the solenoids aren’t holding up good

[@mph5896]

@ that’s what my problem was. The solenoid on the oil pump. Front cover and oil pan had to come off for replacement. Book time is like 13 hours, so an expensive job if you are paying to have it done

[@richardlambert6456]

Thanks for your videos I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe I’ve replaced the oil pump O-ring at the oil pump driving down the road I have continuous 40 psi to 50 but when I come to an idle I have about 10 psi at idle. I did a DOD delete on the computer. Any other suggestions where I could look for the low oil PSI

[@richardlambert6456]

By any chance, would the engine oil intake manifold caused low oil, pressure at engine idle

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Not likely in a 2007. PM me on my webpage and I'll get you a copy of my write up on oil pressure for that year when I'm in the office.

[@richardlambert6456]

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you

[@bobcat138]

So what does the port on the back that goes to the chain guide do?

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Pretty sure I figured it out on camera didn't I?

[@bobcat138]

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I didn't hear how the oil pressure acts on the chain guide?

[@thegamepz]

Can I remove the pump without taking the oil pan out ?

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

Nope.

[@thegamepz]

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair my engine has 170k miles do you recommend pulling out the pistons and changing the rings too with new ( allong with new genuine connecting rod bearings and bolts ? ) since everything will be off the engine might as well slap new rings and do shade tree rebuild. It’s my own truck that I use for work and it was burning oil 1qt between oil changes I think it won’t hurt to put new parts in it ( I think the connecting rod bearings will be perfectly fine but since I will take the rods out 🤔) your opinion please

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

@@thegamepz If you are consuming oil you should find out why. 170k would be considered low miles on the older generation engine. These newer ones i'm still a bit unsure on. They do seem to have even issues the it's predecessor so far.

[@thegamepz]

@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I put new std bearings and new STD piston rings ( anyway everything is out might as well bring some new life in to it) Almost no wear on the bores except all 4 AFM cylinders. They have slight scoring on the pistons and cylinders ( only on the pistons that switch off) along with lots of carbon buildup. Will see how it will work after that. Will Give update in couple of days ( slapped new rings without honing)

[@dkevvv]

So, when someone tells you it doesn't matter what oil filter to use, have them watch this video. It seems to me pressures are very important. Can you comment on using the correct oil filter?

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

The big thing with newer GM V8's is they undersized the filter from the factory. This causes potential for restriction depending on pleat count and micron size of filtration. You can do a couple things to assist with this. One is find the longer version of the stock filter. This will increase total surface area of the pleat making it less prone to being restrictive. Then brand becomes almost irrelevant. Or you could run something like a wix racing filter that has a larger micron filtration size and higher pleat count. This allows the oil to flow better due to less filtration and more surface area being it has high pleat count.

[@dkevvv]

My other main concern is the different bypass PSI depending on what filter you use. To low of bypass psi and the oil isn't being filtered, to high of bypass and there wont be any bypass when required. Thank you for this great info.

[@jaxjax5322]

That pumps are the main failure of the 6.2LT i disconect the variable oil

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

I'm actually upgrading one to a billet unit now. It's getting cam, header and intake manifold upgrades as well.

[@supradaytona9576]

I have suburban 2011 I want delete DOD Are you on Florida

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

I'm located in South Dakota, but on my website I do have a shop or 2 listed in Florida.

[@RAWRMotorsports]

I can but in NW AL

[@RAWRMotorsports]

No torque spec ?! Locktite and ugga duggas x's 2

[@RAWRMotorsports]

Jokes aside 89in/lb is about right for any m8 which usually have a m10 head

[@DJEFlizZ215]

I just used Milwaukee impact driver in #1 setting and ratchet to make shire all were snug…. Remaining oil pushed out… good and tight

[@Brainstangs]

struggling to watch just from the audio

[@geraldwardrop]

Not liking that solenoid

[@Kellyoest]

These are the same solenoids they have been using in automatic transmissions since early 1990's

[@CrazedPerformanceRepair]

But that's trans fluid and don't see near as many cleaning agents added by the owner. Also no fuel or carbon contamination in trans fluid. Time will tell though. My Guess is that it will be fine. But my instinct says otherwise. Especially since the little plastic tubing around the wire is super brittle on every one of these I've pulled apart.

[@RAWRMotorsports]

Those apex style seals wont last .. that solenoid wont last , the vane pump sure fine but not as reliable as an LS pump IMO ..

[@drewadderleystevens4067]

Those new pumps are garbage already replaced two on my 19 suburban. The spring literally disintegrate and broke in pieces.

[@dreece2000]

What was the symptoms

[@drewadderleystevens4067]

@@dreece2000 low oil pressure at idol dropping as low as 5psi.