Buick Timing Cover/Oil pump. How it works and some modifications.

In this video I talk about the inner workings of the Timing cover and one of its functions as the housing for the oil pump. I go over the passages and how the two bypasses work. I also cover some of the easiest mods anyone can do to their cover to reduce the amount of stress on the gears that drive the pump shaft. The one thing I try to make clear is that any mods you do will not help an engine in need of a rebuild, you can buy yourself some time by installing a high volume gear set (HV for short) but other wise no mods will help an engine that does not offer resistance to flow. From the Buick Manuals, I have gathered that anything around 10 PSI at idle is normal anything better than 37 PSI @ 2400 RPM is acceptable.
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[@douggorton1482]

Great to see a young man that knows his Buick's. A few other tricks for the cover, get the gears from Mike Phillips at AM&P. He works them over a bit and they will give you more oil pressure (or at least they did on mine.) Check the gear clearance (I think it is .002 but look it up) and if needed get the kit from TA to fix it. Finally get the steel plate from Melling. I port matched everything. Another thing we found was the booster plate was not perfectly flat and parallel so milled it down to perfect. Had to put in the TA adjustable bypass kit to get the oil pressure down to 70 psi at 6200 rpm. My motor runs .025 to .030 clearance.

[@groomlake51]

Oil pressure is a function of restriction. Restriction is a function of clearance. You did a good job explaining that.

[@VinnyMartello]

I have a 350 Buick in my 66 Chevy C10. I use it as my daily driver and I have pulled very heavy trailers for many thousands of miles. The 350 Buick is under appreciated. You get small block fuel mileage with big block pulling power!

[@NathanCarr42]

been wanted to do an old v8 small block build in a 2000’s s10. would be something crazzyyyy

[@matthewpark5167]

Thank you braddah.... here in Hawaii its hard to find parts for those older model cars.... but we improvise.... so I wasn’t sure how to prime the oil pump without removing the distributor, so I put a little air pressure in the valve cover till it came out of the filter housing...... it worked...... the valve tapping went away.... now its running like a champ..... 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽....

[@gboumpani]

Thank you for this video, I am rebuilding my 350, and I really wanted to understand exactly how the oil pump worked. You explained this beautifully!

[@VenomGT87]

Thank you!

[@johnandersonjr891]

Your video was helpful, thanks. I believe a better way to clarify how the relief spring influences oil pressure is say, simply, it does not. The various spring temsions only determine how much back pressure ( from the engine ) will be allowed if there is some obstruction, before oil is bled off to avoid damage. Because Buicks normally make barely enough pressure, the stock spring will activate too quickly in a high reving performance motor. So a stronger spring is used to allow more needed pressure and oil flow.

[@jerryguardado5610]

I forgot to thank you. Your help is invaluable. Thanks so much!

[@mehlsmountaingarage]

I'm building g a 4.1 stroker soon for my wagon. Just blew up the 3.8 LC2 good info.

[@PetesGarageandperformance]

Thanks for the video. The bypass valve cup plug fell out on a Buick I was working on. Your video helped me know which way it was supposed to go back in.

[@dagubment]

Great tip on using sand paper/ emery cloth to radius the short side edges. This would definitely help improve the flow and reduce cavitation as well.

[@btchhopperou812]

Good job. Basic info and how it works plus some easy mods.

[@robrobster9148]

Using a stiffer spring will cause too much stress on the camshaft gear. I think it's best to use the high volume plate with a stock spring. If one stays under 4000 rpm no modifications are needed.

[@Rusty_trombone62]

86-87 turbo Buick 231 engines are very very sensitive to who is rebuilding the short block. If anyone God forbid is experiencing signs of bearing wear and especially low oil pressure. Please don’t start your engine again. Pull it out and send the short block to a machine shop that has extensive experience with references who can back up there machine work. Because I speak from experience with my cars. I own 2 87 Buick turbo regals. One is a WE4 special edition that I bought new. The other is a Grand National that I bought with Rod knock thinking that I could rebuild it just like I used to rebuild Chevy SBC 350 engines when I was a kid. NOT!!!!!! Got everything back from the local machine shop I’m originally from Brooklyn ny now I live in Florida. So anyway I don’t know anybody out here so I roll the dice with this machine shop. I spare no expense for a stock/stage one build. Forged pistons and rods Block bore .30 over crank cut 10/10 (mistake number one. These cars hate cut cranks with oversized bearings). So anyway ARP Main studs (mistake number 2 should have went with a Griddleinstead). So I get everything back from the machine shop and it’s all built and balanced (so they said). And it looks beautiful. I actually slept with the short block across from my bed on the engine stand. The machine shop was like it’s all ready to go. “DON’T RECHECK OIL CLEARANCES” he said the rod bolts were torque to yield fasteners. (Biggest mistake!!! Whenever you get work back from a machine shop you always check rod and main bearing oil clearance with plastigauge. Even a brand new short block from a crate I’m checking oil clearance. The heads I bought new oem valves and had the 5 angle seat cut and I had them ported and decked. (Great job on the heads. I gunna give credit when it’s due. I still use them) So anyway I use MLS head gaskets. I seal those heads onto that beautiful short block. I can’t remember what cam, rollers, or rockers I used I think they were 1.7 H sharp. Stock valve covers. I upgraded to a precision 6262 Ball bearing turbo with External dump. New timing cover with Melling oil pump with the extended plate. Packed in petroleum jelly. New stock oil pan and pickup. 80LB injectors with Alky injection, Ls1 Maf meter with translator box. All tuned with a Turbo Tweak chip. The gauges, scanmaster, and fuel system was already upgraded when I bought the car. So I paint the engine this sick Corvette Yellow and Black combination with the engine bay media blasted , primes with that anti rust and painted black. My engine bay looked sick. It was one of a kind. So I primed it and it started after about 5 revolutions. I followed the break in down to the minute. My boost was set at wastegate psi and I never boosted it. After 30 minutes of idling I shut the engine and drained the oil and it looked like confetti was in the oil there was so much bearing material. So I’m not stupid. I changed the oil with the oil conventional oil and AC Delco oil filter. I started the car just enough to circumvent the new oil and took the break in oil to the machine shop and was like what’s up with all this bearing material. I’ve done rebuilds and I’ve seen my share of break in oil and a little bit of engine metals and debris is to be expected but this looked like when you go to an Italian restaurant and the grated cheese when the waiter cranks the cheese on your food. That’s what my oil looked like. It looked like all my bearings where in the oil. I actually drove there in my good bone stock 87 WE4 Grand National turbo T. The guy didn’t believe that I owned 2 cars so he thought I drove it all the way to him. And he said it’s fine. He wouldn’t look and see that it wasn’t the same car. (As I walked in I told his wife they are being audio recoded. I guess she didn’t feel the need to tell the owner because he said it’s fine just on your way home don’t boost it until you put at least 600 miles on it. He literally called my a liar when I kept telling him that I own 2 black turbo regals. One I had since new and one i want to go fast in. So I get home and take the car for a drive. No boost just driving normally. I see the oil pressure dropping and I already know where this is going. So I barely made it to the machine shop with full rod knock. It actually sounded like everything was loose in the short block. He was 😡 pissed. With his “good ole boy accent” He was like get that car off my property. I was very calm low tone. I told him “with my Brooklyn accent “ that this is gunna go either 2 ways. 1) You hand me every dollar back that I paid you for parts and labor. 2) Or we let a judge sort this mess out. But just so you know your bearing material took out my Turbo ($1700) external oil cooler, 6AN oil lines, oil pump, timing cover, heads, gaskets. And my time. And I charge $100 an hour and that includes going to court and I may even hire an attorney. And I will definitely expose your great work on KZbin, Facebook, and anywhere else I can. Then he started that “you should’ve came to me shit. Making like the whole thing 2 Hours prior didn’t happen. I pulled out my Iphone and played the whole conversation we had earlier. Then he said he never gave permission to record in his shop. I have it on audio getting permission from his wife aka the shop manager. I left the car there. I pushed it into a spot out of the way. I told him he has till tomorrow to let me know his decision. He had my car towed. So $300 later I tow the car back to my house. And I give him a courtesy call that I am retaining legal representation and we’re going to court. Now he wants to settle. So I tacked on $1300 to my price. $300 for the tow and storage fees and $1000 for being a dick. So he offered me a personal check for $13,000 I rejected that on the spot. I said either a certified, cashiers check, or cash and I will sign you’re binding agreement not to pursue this in any way which is why you don’t know the shop name and you haven’t seen any videos of the mess he made. He paid me via certified Check and apologized and said he never did that type of engine before. He figured 1 ten thousandth of an inch off wouldn’t make a difference. Well guess what it did. His bearing oil clearance was way too tight and plus if I had to guess I think he forgot to hot tank the block again after boring it out. But he wasted a lot of money of expensive rods and pistons that are all junk. The heads , turbo , and oil lines we were able to save. But fortunately my guy in ny was able to save my original numbers matching block and it’s alive and well today. The op is 100% correct. You can have 10 oil pumps all running in series but if there is nothing for the oil to push up against then there’s no oil pressure. It’s like a garden hose with no tip just flowing water. But cover some of the hose with your thumb and you got a 30’ stream of water. Your thumb created the resistance needed to create that water pressure through the garden hose. Same goes for the engine. Especially crankshaft rod and main bearings as the clearance widens it takes more oil to fill up the space between the crankshaft journal and the bearing. Until the clearance gets so great that the oil just flows from the space between the journal and the connecting rod. You can actually see this if you have a good aftermarket oil pressure gauge. As you accelerate oil pressure normally goes up as normal oil pressure is flowing more because the pump is pumping more volume against the same resistance. But on a crankshaft journal with almost no bearing material left or a crushed bearing from knock (detonation) as you accelerate you will actually see the oil pressure plummet down to zero and go back up a little as you get back to idle. When you see this the damage is already done. This engine has passed away and is just trying to get you home. Bottom line any signs of no or low pressure don’t drive it. Either rebuild it of get a junk yard engine with a start up guarantee. And if you do rebuild it then be careful who you let cut into your engine. Picking up machine shop is just like picking the correct surging in the event God forbid you need medical surgery. Sorry for my long story. I just felt it was relevant since you’re talking about Buick engines and oil pressure. I’ve been there and I don’t wanna see anyone else get screwed like I did. Buick and Linda very sensitive to who rebuilds them

[@VenomGT87]

Sorry to hear that you went through that....but I have to say any respectable engine builder will be able to rebuild or built a TR short block, there is no mystical specs in there. I do definitely agree these don’t like cut cranks and people need to be aware of the Buick oil pump poor design (steel gears in an aluminum housing).

[@Rusty_trombone62]

VenomGT87 I guess I just drew the “Turd” of Volusia county Florida. Unfortunately I can’t disclose the name as per our agreement. But from now on (unless you yourself are a machinist in central Florida because you seem to know more about Buick engines then this guy knew. I would actually give build work to you just based on your knowledgeable this video) but unless you’re in Florida. I’m giving all my turbo Buick machine work to either Dave Hudak, Scott Merkell,or CK preference (definitely would give them my 200r4 as soon as it blows up I would have them build me a stage 2 transmission with harden sunshell as well as a full trans brake kit on my Grand National. And if I ever needed a stock rebuild on my WE4 (my baby) I will never trust any machine shop anymore. But you seem to know your $hit so I would definitely hire you if you’re local. Do you build and mod turbo 231 v6 109 engines? I’m curious to know if my current short block is strong enough on the bottom to go with a bigger turbo. I currently have a precision ball bearing 6262 with external dump. I’m thinking about twin turbo but I don’t wanna loose my air conditioner. I’m actually willing to cut the relief holes in my hood like some people do. Right now I’m at (please don’t hold me to these numbers. It’s been a while since she was on the dyno) she’s putting 789 to the rear wheels and I think 802 of torque (I lost a lot of torque because it takes a lot to spool up that huge turbo and I never went with the larger throttle body and dog house yet. And my 2 step rev limiter won’t work without that 90mm q45 throttle body). But the turbo is only tuned at 17 psi because anymore power would implode that stock transmission. So the most turbo tweak could tune my chip for was 17 psi. On pump 93 gas. I’m E85 tuned as well on another chip but I can’t find it anywhere around me.

[@VenomGT87]

It is always cheaper for me to have someone else build the short block but that is taking into account that I go to the guys that do it for a living and I can source the parts slightly cheaper. You mentioned a few good builders, I would ask for an itemized build/bill sheet so you know exactly what you are paying for (usually that brings the build price to a more reasonable level without any haggle). Most of the stuff I do for others is give them a hand installing parts and accessories but I don't think I will be building engines because of the shear fact that most people don't know how to take care of them and/or don't understand (or have the time) that there is a lot of tinkering involved to make it function and perform the way one wants. BTW I am from Miami but I live in Maryland.

[@earlbrown]

You should try that 'earlbrown' mod. You'll find that it'll cause the pump to self prime. I don't recommend that, but it's a lot better to self prime than to never prime after the engine is running. The main benefit is to let both sides of the gears get wet before the pressure relief spring opens. That weakness is made worse by installing the stiffer spring and/or shimming that spring. Running more poundage on the relief valve delays the time/RPMs before the restriction on the pumps low pressure side goes away. And the general rule will all pumps, is you NEVER want to restrict the low pressure side. It costs you big time on the efficiency at the high pressure side. Also, the oil can't run out of the upper section over time unless there's a way for air to get in there to replace it. As long as the oil filter pickup is submerged, only a leak could make that happen. As long as the pickup is submerged and there's not leaks (either at the timing cover gasket, or the pickup tube gasket) the pump can't lose prime. Same thing with putting your finger over a straw and lifting it out of a liquid.

[@VenomGT87]

I’ll take mods a la carte....lol I guess I am missing something, the pressure relief valve is recirculating the oil so unless you are thinking of that oil (that is already worked on by the pump) as additive, I don’t see how that removes any restriction from the feed side. You will loose prime if you let it sit due to the system not being air tight(finger on the straw is air tight) and opening that hole lower in the cover only makes the level of oil in which the gears sit after it has drained back to be lower and the oil filters “drain back valves” are a joke...put a little bit of oil in any filter you have and lay it on it side, watch the oil go right past the valve...most of this is kind of like the “booster” plates, they boost pressure by providing a trued wear surface, not because of the holes on them....which in the ones I have held in my hands look like they would create restrictions right at the adaptor, the main reason for this video was because some people believe the pressure relief spring can raise their idle pressure 😂 and they pass it on as gospel. Btw thank you for all the write ups and stuff you have posted on the forums, I have learned a lot from there, don’t agree with some bits of it but great info regardless.

[@earlbrown]

@@VenomGT87 Your first sentence that says ''I guess I am missing something" is correct.... The relief valve does recirculate oil back to the other side of the pump... but ONLY after it's opened up. During low RPMs when the valve is completely closed, it's only allowing one corner of the gears to get wet. When you go WOT (and need the oil on the rod bearings) the pump has to start spinning with a restricted inlet. (basically the pump gears are forced to act like they are shorter on the low pressure side). Once it get spinning hard enough and can crack the pressure relief valve that's when the other corner of the gears get wet. That issue is made much worse by putting in the stiffest spring you can find. The stiffer the spring, the longer the delay before the pump can reach its full efficiency. My ''earlbrown booster hole'' allows the oil to run right into the center of the gears on the low pressure side at ALL times. As the relief valve opens the flow can adjust itself however it likes since fluids always follow the path of least resistance. Buick V6s make a BUTTLOAD of torque at low RPMs so it's VERY important to have the pressure just off idle jump as fast as possible. You never want to drive though weak oiling then have to wait to the pressure to catch up. That's why if you ever see one of my covers in action, you'd see a severe jump in pressure just off idle to damn near the full pressure.

[@mexicanlee]

@@VenomGT87 I'm having an issues with my sons 3.8 losing prime on a 3rd oil pump rebuild. This past time that we did it, it ran great pressure for about 2 1/2 almost 3 months and just today it lost prime again when he came to visit. We do have a small oil leak coming from the crank pulley I believe but would that cause it to lose prime? The engine has about 28,000 miles on it since rebuild and runs great except for this issue and I hate to but I'm ready to give up on it after dumping so much time and moneyz into it. Any suggestions on what it could be???

[@VenomGT87]

mexicanlee if there are no noticeable leaks coming from the pump area. Did you check that the gears and cavity are within specs? Particularly the driven gear. If Yes. I’d check for a loose oil pick up tube, torn gasket near the pump.

[@imonaroll9502]

Add a little cutting oil while drilling the hole.

[@jrburger1987]

I was hoping to see how the gears work inside... I'm working on my 1982 buick regal V6 252 and my oil pump is bad which is bone dry behind the timeing chain cover.. We was wondering why we wasn't getting no fire. The timing chain is the original plastic gear was very surprised.. But going to replace that any way with the new timing chain gear kit.. The oil pump going to replace that as well. So hopefully by the end of the week it will fire up

[@macpherson3182]

if you you can get reamers for enlarging the holes you run a lot less risk of damaging the hole and you have better drill control.

[@joseguillermomoralesgarcia]

What spring do you recommend for a high volume pump, 231 engine, what color spring would be indicated? 231 chevrolet engine

[@VinnyMartello]

Fantastic video dude!

[@jaime13huerta]

Can you make a video of assembling the oil pump I’m working on a Buick 350 which has the same cover and want to put it together right and know clearances

[@VenomGT87]

Once I get the engine in the machine shop I can definitely do that, but that is at least 6 months out. I can tell you the kits come with all the specs in a sheet, 3 gasket thicknesses and it is very straight forward, most important is the bottom clearance which you pretty much set with the gasket. But like I said it is coming and I can try to expedite it but no promises.

[@jaime13huerta]

VenomGT87 sounds good

[@earlbrown]

www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/39169-how-build-front-cover-oil-pump.html

[@Superdude881]

With a new pump using white spring and 100psi at cold idle and 60psi in drive but when hot 85psi at idle and 65psi in drive, what would you think could be the cause for such high pressure? Clearance? 10w30 oil?

[@johnbryant5086]

My gn only had 8psi oil pressure at idle hot and I had several people tell me to replace the timing cover and I did and my car holds right at 20psi at idle when hot. I had a old Buick guy tell me the problem is the shaft wears the cover and it looses pressure around the shaft.

[@VenomGT87]

8 psi is still within spec hot. IIRC the shop manual calls for 5 psi at idle hot or something really low like that..lol

[@joseguillermomoralesgarcia]

Cual resorte se utiliza para da de alto volumen ??

[@sheldonk5747]

Glad you mentioned that the specs of the oil pressure on the engine should be between 7 to 15 at idle because I've always wondered that and at idle I am at 15. But of course as you accelerate that really does shoot up pretty far. Another thing people try to use for the oil pressure to rise is a Melling thrust plate kit. I've seen that a lot on forums.

[@VenomGT87]

Those thrust plates give you better bottom clearance and a new wear surface. I would honestly go with the ones that Fabro used to make out of stainless because the finish is 10x better than the melling plates. I have seen some really porous melling plates that have lots of dirty edges and extremely rough machined finish.

[@sheldonk5747]

VenomGT87 good to know. Just going to still keep mine stock for now. Not having any problems.

[@VinnyMartello]

I wouldn’t mind getting your opinion though. Since I do lots of towing in hot weather with my Buick engine I’ve added a remote oil filter kit and an oil cooler but I’ve lost noticeable average oil pressure. Would that justify use if a high volume oil pump kit? I already have a new timing cover and a booster plate with the stock gears.

[@VenomGT87]

I would look at the fittings on the sandwich plate and cooler, see how small the openings are. I have seen kits where the fitting opening is 1/4”

[@VinnyMartello]

It’s all half inch diameter. I made sure the oil was totally topped off. It’s not too bad now. I was a dummy. New filter plus new plumbing and I was a quart low. But it’s still a slightly lower average but not devastating.

[@anthonywilson6740]

It’s on a 1972 Buick Skylark 350.

[@TheRowdyJ]

i have a 350 from a 72 skylark i am going to rebuild for my jeep. =)

[@randallhoist6345]

The Buick engines are the same set up after 1966

[@anthonywilson6740]

Man thank you for this video, it really helped me to understand how the oil pump works, I had a problem with my oil pump and when I took it and lose I found that the plunger is stuck in there and does not moving I was able to get it out but is was very tight and hard to move, what do you think I should do?

[@VenomGT87]

If you were able to remove it without damaging the adaptor, take it out and see if the bore is smooth, if it is get another kit and replace the plunger, testing it first to see if it moves freely, lube it with a dab of oil and is should glide in and out with very little force. If it doesn't replace the adaptor as well.

[@Fixdecay]

I have a jeep wagoneer with the Buick 350 V8. I've got a slow oil leak from the Oil Filter mount gasket. It looks like it has a spacer. How hard is it to replace? 4 bolts pry it down and replace the gaskets or will gears and parts fall out when I remove it? marc

[@VenomGT87]

If it has a plate sandwiched between the filter adaptor and the gear housing you may need to shim the gears to locate the plate but usually the plate is pinned in with two small pins if it was installed correctly. Either way is an easy job to replace those shim gaskets. While you have it out you can resurface the wear plate and maybe get some oil pressure back.

[@jerryguardado5610]

This is in regards to the possible use of a regulated auxiliary external pump with appropriate pick-up located in the pan: Has anyone thought about welding inlet and outlet tubes or pipes on the ports of the cover, stress relieving and then re-machining? Or, maybe with the oil pump installed, drill an external hole in the pressure side of the cover, welding in a pipe or tube and then use the external pump during the low pressure condition? Thank you for considering my idea!

[@VenomGT87]

That is more or less the way accusump systems work. Now those are only meant for brief loss due to cornering and so on.

[@douglaslanger4763]

what about too much pressure where it blows a though the filter seal in 10-15 seconds all oil on floor.

[@tensecondbuickgn]

I took my oil cooler off. You don't need it. Especially when you use synthetic oil and have a 160 degree thermostat! Bonus points for a roller cam set up where there is not as much friction.

[@VenomGT87]

I was monitoring oil temps for a while and I came to the conclusion that if you daily the car you kinda want to have it there because I noticed the oil temperature goes well above the engine temp, sometimes over 280 particularly after a run down the track or “spirited” driving did I put one on mine?....nope 😂

[@tensecondbuickgn]

@@VenomGT87 yea I've yet to be stuck in bumper to bumper traffic for an extended period of time so that's probably a good point. Every time I check my pan with an infra red gun, it's usually around 150. My oil pressure at idle is 5psi after warm up but has plenty off idle. Been thinking about the Melling high volume gears to try and improve it some. And I just got done reading the same article that you probably have about modifying the front cover so that may be a winter project. I live really close to Red Armstrong and I remember him telling me years ago during one of my visits that Buick designed these engines loose and he hinted that as being the reason why we're able to get so much frickin power out of these little engines without scattering them. I don't know if it's true or not but it made sense the way he explained it. I do know Eddie Cheever still holds the track record at Indy for the fastest race lap in a Buick turbo V6 ;)

[@VinnyMartello]

I just installed a remote oil filter kit and a cooler today. I have a 350 Buick in my 66 Chevy pickup and I use it for towing... a lot!!! So I think it’s a good idea. But I wanna install a high volume pump since my average oil pressure has gone down a little due to all the extra plumbing.

[@suzysuzuki8865]

I have a 72 buick centurion is the oil pump belt driven? Because there is an ac compressor, power steering, and then one other compressor that has a hose running Into the engine and I have no idea what it is

[@VenomGT87]

I’d have to see it but I don’t know of any Buicks with belt driven oil pumps. Smog or evacuation pump maybe?

[@Tim.McElheny]

Is it necessary to put vasoline in the oil pump before re-installing after taking the oil filter off and removing the timing cover on a 3800?

[@VenomGT87]

Yes and no. You can just wet them with a heavy oil so it has enough seal and lubrication to pull the oil up to it when you prime it without scoring the surfaces.

[@Tim.McElheny]

VenomGT87 I didn’t take the oil pump apart or replace the pump. I just took the oil filter and timing cover off. Is it still necessary to lubricate it? It should there be enough residual oil in there to be ok.

[@VenomGT87]

Tim McElheny sounds reasonable but that is your call.

[@ConstHiperalumina123]

Espero reparación del servofreno para Range Rover clásica 1978.

[@FuchsDanin]

I've got an '87 T-Type Limited that needs work, and I'm trying to find the right resources. I'm capable but this is my first almost-GN and I want it right - too many cooks, etc.. Any advice on where to go in 2020 for information as opposed to "discussions to read and get overwhelmed by"? Might I pick your brain on a few topics?

[@VenomGT87]

Message me on FB page or Instagram.

[@arnoldschmidt2753]

Which Buick are you discussing? I was looking for the 2004 3800 series III . What you are describing looks like to me as a 350,455 style of engines unless this is a pre 2000 design. Good explanation of the circuit though. Im trying to play catch up on the 60's,70's,80's,90's & up to the 2008 Buick V6 3800 series III engines. Ive learned about the fireball V6 designed &manufactured in 1961. By 1967 ,Gm sold the rights and tooling to willy's JEEP and after economic circumstances,GM BOUGHT the tooling back in 1973 after the oli embargo & began to build revised designs. I don't know if the 1976-77 designs had a pump design similar to the small block Chevy. If they did that would be cool to read up about. But engineering changes to hopefully improve the quality and durability combined with fewer parts to manufacture. Counter shafts ,electronic sensors, roller cams FI ,SUPERCHARGERS ETC.. IF you could suggest a publication of the V6 that i could absorb the design changes, that would be much appreciated.

[@VenomGT87]

That video in particular was for the 109 LC2 V6 but it is my understanding that the design is near identical to the earlier model V8’s Google “gnttype” and look in their library. Plenty of information and pictures for free.

[@87national]

Great video... How hard is it to remove? Is it just bolts or more complicated then that?

[@VenomGT87]

The oil filter adapter is held by 5 or six bolts, the hard part is aligning the gears with the spacer plate.

[@87national]

Did you have to reinstall at TDC? Or can I just remove timing cover, do mod and reinstall?

[@MrCreeper211]

Do i have to take the timing cover off to get that 1 gear out with the shaft

[@VenomGT87]

Nope. Just watch your cam sensor does not move.

[@MrCreeper211]

@@VenomGT87 ok cause it's only popping out like a 1/4. I can't get to come out

[@MrCreeper211]

@@VenomGT87 is that my distributor

[@artdoesitall8427]

Where can I hook up a mechanical oil gauge on these motors

[@VenomGT87]

Under the turbo on the front corner of the block, behind the oil pump body.

[@andyatallah9592]

Guys. When my car temperature goes to 65 Celsius. The oil light start to blink and stay red on idle. What is the main factor for that. What i should change?

[@VenomGT87]

Have you verified oil pressure with a gauge?

[@andyatallah9592]

@@VenomGT87 no and I don't know how!

[@TheRowdyJ]

i am about to build a 350 for my jeep. where would someone get one of those plates for the oil cooler? i could use one for creeping at low rpm. nice video.

[@VenomGT87]

Any universal sandwich plate would work but if you want an OEM one like this one, hit up the Buick pages on FB.

[@TheRowdyJ]

VenomGT87 oh sweet

[@Mr.Turbo6]

So my oil pressure on cold start up is 100psi but that’s as high as the gauge goes, it’s takes a while to come down after driving but then at hot idle it’s around 60 and if I wot on the freeway it goes back around 100 again... seems high to me and I can’t remember what it was before I broke a few things. I did put new rod bearings and crank when I replaced the #3 piston from a shorted fuel injector harness... any reason or what I can do to lower this? I believe this is what’s making my rear main leak again...

[@VenomGT87]

Sounds like your clearances are really tight, your bypass in the lower section of the pump is seized or it has a REALLY stiff spring in it. Have you tried running a lighter oil? Check you cam gear as well because at those pressures that gear is getting worn fast.

[@Mr.Turbo6]

VenomGT87 I will try a lighter oil, I’ve been running 20w50 vr1 valvoline.. switch back to the 10w30 possibly? I’m still flat tappet, any suggestions on zinc additive or what’s your thought?

[@VenomGT87]

Lucas makes a break-in additive that can also be used to spike your zddp content best part most autoparts stores sell it. I’d go with whatever full synthetic, I prefer T6 5w40 as it is cheap, synthetic and has a robust detergent package.

[@Mr.Turbo6]

VenomGT87 ok, I stuck with the valvoline vr1 since it has the zinc in it already, used 10w30 and it is around 90psi give or take and when hot it isles around 40psi, seemed to improve and at freeway speeds it’s 60-70psi.. what you think?

[@FIXANDREPAIR]

Are the oil pumps from a 4.3, buick gn, 350, or 455 etc the same design? Could they be swapped on to upgrade oil pressure? I have a 3.8 and need to replace pump.

[@VenomGT87]

No, the 4.3 and 350 are distributor gear driven. Usually the pump is not the issue, although it is your cheapest starting point.

[@Mo.Sk8er]

what 3.8 do you have? i have a 07 buick lucerne with the series 2, my pressure was low when id start it for awhile or until i rev passed 2 grand, until i started it the other day and everything was ticking and the light was staying on. every mechanic i talk about say oil pump, but i cant find anything on my oil pump including location of it, only repair kits online. what did you do going on about replacing it, and where was it located??

[@jimmymartinez3405]

Need help I did a rebuild kit on my 85 regal 3.8 v6 was running great until today it runs good until engine gets hot and I lose oil pressure engine starts to lose power and will go back to normal after a couple minutes

[@VenomGT87]

How is the fuel pressure? Fuel Pump may be dying.

[@GGM5150]

What weight oil are you running in your GN?

[@VenomGT87]

Right now Royal Purple synthetic 5w20 I am about to switch to 5w40 for summer, depending on how it behaves I may go a little heavier.

[@rodney1182]

Have you ever heard anybody taking the timing cover, distributor,oil pump in oil pump drive gear off of 84 and put it on a 86 and a half block?

[@VenomGT87]

Not really but I don’t know why you would do that. Aftermarket has all those parts covered and I think the later castings were better.

[@landonlay2326]

If the high pressure relief/bypass valve is stuck open or if the oil filter relief/bypass valve is stuck open, would the engine lose oil pressure altogether? I am using the High Volume oil pump and the spacer plate. I have tried all three springs in the high pressure relief/bypass valve, and every time, everything is good (oil pressure is 20 psi at warm idle and 50-60 psi at 2000 rpm) until I get the car over 3000-3200 rpms and about 5 psi of boost. At that point, I lose oil pressure altogether. Any thoughts on what might be causing my engine to lose all oil pressure (dropping to zero only when under boost)? Thank you in advance! By the way, thank you so much for all the helpful videos!

[@VenomGT87]

If the engine is up in the RPM's and looses oil pressure completely (at RPM) and then it returns at idle you most likely have a loose connector somewhere and the signal is cutting out. To loose oil pressure all together it could be a broken gear pin on the cam sensor, a large leak between the timing cover/block, a crack on the block along the oil galleys, a lifter jumped out, pick-up tube is loose or your bearing clearances are out of spec. BUT any of these will give you zero oil pressure at idle and you should be able to hear the lifter begging for mercy.

[@landonlay2326]

Oh, ok. I see. I am hoping it is something simple. It is a completely rebuilt long block with less than 150 miles on it. The car loses oil pressure and it does not come back until I remove and reseat the high pressure relief valve and spring. Then I reprime the pump and it works great until I get it up to about 5 psi of boost and I lose all oil pressure again. The gauge is mechanical, so I know it is reading correctly. Thank you so much for the helpful information.

[@VenomGT87]

Landon Lay be careful with that, you can wipe out your bearings really quickly if they aren’t damaged already. The oil filter adaptor is $30 new, get another one and test the valve to make sure it travels freely thru the entire bore. If it feels gummy, use a drill with a pipe cleaner wire brush a little bigger than the bore and run it in and out a couple times and try again until the valve slides smoothly...make sure to flush it all out with some parts cleaner before you install it.

[@turboman1976]

@@VenomGT87 Each time the car lost all oil pressure I immediately shut the engine off until I was able to work on it. So I am pretty sure the bearings are not damaged. My current high pressure valve is sliding into the chamber fully. The high pressure valve slides the full travel length just fine. That is why I am confused. But I will go ahead and order a new oil pump housing since it is cheap peace of mind. I will order it this week and install it and let you know if it fixes the zero oil pressure issue. Thank you for the helpful tips. I will try them.

[@VenomGT87]

gn87man it just occurred to me, check to see if the driven pump gear is spinning on the shaft, it may have cracks in the webs if it is.

[@chrisnelson3564]

What reference books would you recommend for Buick 350's?

[@VenomGT87]

Depends, nothing beats shop manuals but Haynes Manuals are just as good.

[@VinnyMartello]

Jim Burek has a book about Buick engines that’s pretty detailed.

[@simonsuarz3816]

Necesito ese vídeo traaducido en español, porfavor

[@YGSpider]

The spring works when the motor is cold and needs to release oil pressure so you dont have 100 PSI idle lol

[@VenomGT87]

Yes, but mostly at higher RPM to bleed off excess pressure. I've always ran HV gears so I always have to wait for the engine to warm up so my oil pressure is not ridiculously high. I am considering running a 0W-20 this winter because ever since I blueprinted the cover I have 80+ at idle cold and goes into the 90's if I start driving with the engine cold, once the engine is at operating temps I have normal oil pressure. I have considered going back to stock height gears but I am not a fan of ~10 PSI at idle.

[@YGSpider]

I went with the Kenne Bell booster plate that Coach was making, you grind out a 1/4 slot on the Filter housing to mate with the Inlet Oil passage and the steel plate allows for a perfect surface for the gears too run on.. once the gears gouge the filter housing you lose quite a bit of oil pressure and I did the same 1/2 Drilling of the oil passage along with some TA performance Shims to get the perfect clearance on the pump gears and plate. Car has about 20-25 idle and 60-70 at 60 mph.

[@YGSpider]

www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/Oilpump.htm

[@YGSpider]

I wouldn't drop any lower then a good 10-30 oil

[@VenomGT87]

10-30 is what I am running now and my main concern is the wear on the cam sensor and cam gears.

[@CantKillMe]

hay I have a 1982 Buick 231 need some help getting it in time if you can help

[@jrburger1987]

Have you got it in time?

[@williamrodriguez7566]

WHERE I CAN USE THE OIL LINE FOR TURBO APLICATION??

[@VenomGT87]

I am not sure what you are asking bud.

[@williamrodriguez7566]

@@VenomGT87 FROM WHERE I TAKE OIL TO FEED MY TURBO....I ALREADY MAKE THE KIT BUT I'M AFRAID OF THE OIL ISSUES OF THESE ENGINES...I USE TO HAVE HONDAS TURBO ..MAKE A " T " IN THE OIL PRESURE SUITCH AND ITS ALL...OIL FOR THE TURBO...

[@VenomGT87]

William Rodriguez the concept is the same, the pressure switch T is where the factory gets oil from.

[@87national]

What do you think about adding the booster plate ?

[@VenomGT87]

My personal opinion...the booster part is a gimmick, better wear surface..sure.

[@VinnyMartello]

I have a booster plate on my 350 Buick motor now. I haven’t lost any oil pressure from that. However, installing a remote oil filter kit with oil cooler has cause a drop in my average oil pressure.

[@user-mf4wp1fq1k]

Buenas podría ser en español por fa

[@n3mean550]

I have to disagree... Oil pressure isn't measured at the pump necessarily.. it's at the rings etc... if you can increase flow through the pump, you are in fact raising pressure at the bearings great info here though

[@VenomGT87]

I think you meant bearings and I'd agree with you on that, resistance to flow is the oil pressure you read on your gauge. Changing the springs in the pump will not increase the flow, only limit the ceiling at which point it levels out...assuming your bearings are within specs otherwise no matter what spring you throw in there, it will never reach the opening pressure.

[@rolltide9547]

Too bad you can not convert a 3.8 to a 3800 oil system.

[@VenomGT87]

Someone did, I can’t remember their name. Someone else built a 3800 like a we do the LC2s

[@bigfootvslittlefoot]

now do I have to remove the timing cover to rebuild the oil pump I just did a whole new cam recently now the pump is going bad and I dont have time to take it all apart

[@VenomGT87]

Depends on if the gear to cover clearance and play specs are good; you can. Usually when you are having oil pressure issues...is not.

[@bigfootvslittlefoot]

@@VenomGT87 well I took the oil filter off and then took top piece off and took off one of the gears then grabbed the one with the bar attached came out with little pull however it wont come all the way out I'm not forcing it hopefully didnt fuck anything up lol dont have money to get this done and I'm on my own

[@VenomGT87]

They should all come out fairly easy unless it is gunked up.

[@bigfootvslittlefoot]

@@VenomGT87 it has a gear of some sort on it in the timing cover removed the distrubtor to look inside so I just replaced the one