Viewers Choice! Super Excited, Unboxing Team Associated RC10 B6.4 Team Kit

Vintage RC Racing Vs Modern, how different can it be? Team Associated RC10 B6.4
After having a blast racing a vintage RC buggy over the last six-plus months, now it's time to try the latest from Team Associated, the RC10 B6.4 2WD. In this series we will be building, racing, modifying and comparing it with my vintage Schumacher Cougar to see just how fast modern buggies are with the same electronics, driver and track layout. Also, we will be comparing track times with vintage bodies vs the modern cab forward style that I hate and seeing if it really does make a difference. First, let's unbox and take a look at the latest offering from Team Associated
A massive thank you to Rochester RC for supporting RCKicks and for giving a 5% discount code on all products and free UK shipping to RCKicks viewers! Just use code"RCKICKS" at checkout to save yourself some money on your next RC purchase as well as help the RCKicks channel a little for free. Website: rochesterrc.uk...
More RC content from RCKicks.
RCKicks Facebook Page: / www.rckicks.co.uk
RCKicks Group Page: / 449280332477997
RCKicks Instagram: / rckickscom
You can find way more content from RCKicks on the below links as well as help support the RCKicks channel by becoming a Patreon:
Patreon: / rckicks
Or
Buy RCKicks A Coffee: www.buymeacoff...
Or
Amazon product list support www.amazon.co....
Or
A Direct RCKicks channel support tip via Paypal: [e-mail]
#Slash #RCKicks #Traxxas

[@billpreston8421]

I would only change the bulkhead, other than that this buggy is dialed out of the box for sure.

[@jadc]

I'm looking forward to this series. It's always interesting to see if upgrades actually help, and it'll be great to see what bodies fit...

[@TeamRC3D]

If you need any pointers give us a shout. The shocks as kit will be over damped and need to drill out pistons

[@johnmyall5548]

The can forward bodies are definitely an improvement over the older style, but not being rude, unless you’re somewhere near regional A final and above level, you probably won’t notice.

[@JoevsRc]

The only upgrade I would do when you build it, is the front lower bulkhead. We have about the same driving skills, and it won't last. You will thank me later. Enjoy the new buggy

[@jasonandrewford4926]

The idea a cab forward shell will give you more front end grip, as the air will push the front end down. I recommend you keep this body.

[@barrycheesemore2928]

Personally I'd just build it as per the kit, run it, then see what it's like, then think about upgrading it. Don't just change parts just because other people have, it might not suit you and your driving style. And definitely don't go for things like the Willspeed chassis upgrade until you feel that your driving has got to a stage where you need the extra performance, it will not do you any favours. I can't wait to see how you get on with it!!

[@vigilante351]

Totally agree - kit form is usually very very good for us non-super-pro drivers. Def build it 1st, and then test before buying those "expensive" mods. You'll thank us later im sure Gav.

[@HL-OOI]

Ya I only go for alum servo horn, diff cover and wing brace..bellcranks is not necessary either..👍🏻

[@tonyjohansson2967]

Oh i like this! To make small improvements and check for progress, very interested about old body aerodynamics..would be very nice to know if it makes a difference. Cab forward is not very pretty 😂

[@RCKickschannel]

Coming soon!

[@HL-OOI]

Basically nothing to upgrade besides alum servo horn, alum diff cover (prevent oil leaking), wing brace..😂 Alum cross pins for 2-gear diff setup.

[@escos0410]

Screws Bin the stock items and get titanium ones Weight!! You will be amazed how much weight loss is gained and as for the body main reason above all is all the parts work in conjunction with the body The one Iv got is a LRM Apollo aftermarket with extra slots for aero but more so better cooling of the motor and electronics the better they respond, performance from heat sap and over heating with the mid motor configuration is a issue especially racing indoors It’s like a real car thst issue with these modern day buggy’s

[@stonecold6243]

Like this car just not feeling the body!

[@jonthomas8487]

Because JConcepts makes bodies for Team Associated (or they used to) they should know what all fits well. I think they have a few vintage look bodies on their site

[@williamjohnson7704]

JConcepts still produces RC10 bodies from the vintage gold pans to the modern B6.4 buggies. Their modern bodies are still cab forward bodies.

[@dankforest]

Great ideas! Im looking forward to it!

[@Andy_Yates]

While I have a B6.3 and not the 6.4, I can tell you the steering radius / turning circle is pretty tight on the buggy. You probably don't want a shorter wheelbase since that is the dirt chassis. Since my 6.3 is also my first experience on an indoor carpet track, you can assume it's been through some crashes, tumbles, and head-ons with the wall. I've never had an Associated ball cup pop the ball stud. I went wheels up on the straight, didn't call straight-away fast enough, and got clobbered by one of the fast (4)wheelers. They broke my rear camber link (turnbuckle) but the ends were still firmly attached to the ball studs. I understand the upgrade path is how you want to keep the videos interesting so I'll suggest the AL servo arm as mentioned, and AL or brass front bulkhead, and AL bellcranks if they aren't standard. The fast guys at my track also swear by the JConcepts F2 body. I'm trying it now but I'm also just running a 17.5 justock in our spec series. "They say" the F2 is noticeably better than the stock AE body, but I'm not good enough or fast enough to tell. I love the buggy racing and they fly SO nice over jumps. Glad to see a new series for racing! Love these

[@dartvader8040]

I also have the B6.3 for carpet and as Andy said, it "turns on a dime" with the longer wb chassis. I haven't had any issues with ball cups popping, but would highly recommend using titanium turnbuckles, since stock ones tend to bend easily when crashing (which I do all the time). Also love how the car handles on jumps, it makes me feel like pro driver. Illusion which usually is destroyed at the next curve 😄 -Rami

[@colestaples2010]

For carpet you will want 3.9 lbs springs in from and 2.2 for rear. For clay you will want 3.45 in front and 1.9 in the rear

[@williamjohnson7704]

Great to series! Looking forward to see how you do with a thoroughbred racer. I agree that the cab forward bodies are hideous. Reach out to a chap by the name of Andy Jacobson, he man that will get you the best rear cab body to fit the RC10 B6.4 chassis. In my honest opinion his Pro-Arrow RC10 body would fit the best. I have one on a vintage Composite Chaft RC10 narrow chassis.

[@alfredyost7972]

Team Associated makes some really nice cars. I just think it sad that they are no longer made in the USA. Thoughts? Schumacher is made in UK. I built a Mission FT car. I had one or two small concerns. They responded very quickly to my concerns and sent out the part that I needed very fast and even free. You have to like that. Thoughts?

[@lo2713]

I had the 6.2 and was great out of the box, easy to build and easy to work on. One day i may give modern another crack 🤔

[@bradbattaglia7572]

Love it! Good luck and we’ll be watching. Haven’t done any kits since my Tamiya P34 6 wheeler. Eager to get back into another build!

[@Peter-wb9gt]

Interesting to see the difference Mandatory upgrade is the metal bulkhead and second possible upgrade is the steering rack Have fun !

[@stephanbinder3829]

and by the way, there are no RC clubs for racing anywhere around me here in Austria... thats really sad... but however!

[@hondofourfivetwo9347]

This should be an interesting series I’m very interested in the lap time differences between the two Personally I’m still running a B6.1FL with a few.2/.3 updates the biggest difference is the new 13mm dampers (I know there’s more to it) unfortunately I race stock 17.5T so I don’t have much setup wise wise but I’d keep the stock ball cups something’s gotta give in a crash id rather pop on a ball cup vs replace a bent/broken part Id also look into the brass and steel tuning parts like the front arm mount whatever to add a little forward weight bias for carpet.

[@stackitwithbricks7103]

Not much of an Asso fan on European tracks and drive Xray myself but good to see that you give it a shot. Yes from your comments on the parts you‘re a nooby but weren‘t we all once there 😂

[@stephanbinder3829]

This will become a really great series!!! I am thinking about getting a new style buggy, but I do not like this cab forward design, too... so im am really curious regarding your "body" mod!!!!!

[@mitsuman5555]

Love the idea of comparing lap times of the new and old with same electrics.

[@n22pdf]

Wow great plan look forward to this dude.. I’m same as you I don’t like the modern bodies so will be brill to see what can fit on this one 😃

[@madvente]

Looking forward to this series very much as well!

[@gainsrc]

Excited for you! In your Stock class are you required to run blinky?

[@marklandsaat3696]

I love my Associated buggies, looking forward to more videos

[@Luke-en2tk]

You will want the front brass bulkhead for indoor racing

[@waynemattera8552]

Comparo- Outstanding idea Gav!!

[@ZombieGamingMetalhead]

That's a really good car to have. Losi is also a good one

[@mikeupton5406]

I like your decision to use an older body.

[@leekinsey5888]

Really looking forward to this! I run a cougar classic (not as modified as yours) and always wondered how much difference there would be!

[@RCKickschannel]

I’ve driven a modern 4WD race buggy on a track and it’s night and day really.

[@GearWorksRc]

You should've gotten a Tlr everybody's running Team associated it seams like.

[@RCKickschannel]

Well you should have voted

[@brandonmcqueen1856]

D is for DIRT

[@MrSneakyGunz]

Good morning Noob!😂 I think you'll love this kit. I just built the B74.2 (4wd version). It's a super low cg buggy. It just hugs the ground. I love it. I'm excited to watch your progress through this Gav.

[@rorythetiger5198]

Such a shame the poll went for the that would of been better with the ld2 as every man and he's dog have the team associated

[@RCKickschannel]

I think we can make this one a little different from the norm ;)

[@rc-dom-uk]

I’ve not built a TA but Ive got the sc10 trophy rat and it’s a good car 👍

[@neilstothard]

This looks like it's gonna be an interesting adventure from building to racing the car and I sure the Popalong boys will give you some help with any questions you have.

[@geoffschlabach4226]

You have the set up to run sensored why arnt you??

[@RCKickschannel]

I am

[@grrfy]

If it is anything like the cycling world ceramic bearings a complete waste of time and money.and unless paying really big bucks ie not made in china not as round as none ceramic ones.Hambini did a great video on it.

[@Zombles581]

Same tires?

[@RCKickschannel]

Yep

[@MikeColes-ct6tk]

Nothing beats a tamiya for packaging,the tamiya top end cars are probably slower,but for me it's all about the build experience

[@RCKickschannel]

Apples and oranges really. Tamiya and Team Associated RC10 B Kits are for totally different aspects of the hobby.