Villainy Ink Review - A New Way To Paint Warhammer?

Hey guys, this is my first review on the channel! Yay! I'll be reviewing Villainy Ink, which has come from the team over at ‪@GrimdarkCompendium‬ a product that I have very much been looking forward to testing out and trying! Let me know if you like the format of the review! I tried to test out as many different applications from slopping it on a mini to more subtle gradients to see if it would work for me as a regular use in my mini painting adventures.

[@GrimdarkCompendium]

Yooooo!! ❤ I appreciate the review! I quite like the approach you had here! It demonstrates some pretty cool tests! Thanks so much!

[@Wolffheim]

How do you buy the set?

[@DarkAgesWorkshop]

Cool video! I recommend shaking the bottle, cleaning the pipette, and give it another thorough shake, you did the right thing squeezing the pipette all the way - it's a nice commodity but needs some maintenance. I also recommend thinning Villainy Inks with at least 3/4 brushfuls of mineral spirit and stir nicely before applying, so it dries more matte and much faster. Carrion Crimson and Coelia Green have a sort of "secret" effect as flesh washes, they have small little stray pigments floating around that will give flesh a super realistic effect like little skin flaws/imperfections/pores. Play around with those, you'll be surprised! Great showcase!

[@threhane3492]

Nice thorough review. I watch a bunch of GDC videos, and was curious about this product.

[@Dwilson1282]

it helped me a lot to thin them profusely

[@Thewiggleman]

It is one thing I wish I tried in retrospect to the video, they do come out a lot thicker than the ak washes I'm used to like rust streaks and streaking grime!

[@Jaydonald_DG]

Nicely done! Where is the Ork Bust from? It is awesome.

[@gundamhigh2903]

Where did you get that ghoul from?! My ushoran has dinner plates set around a banquet table ready for them!

[@dilandausc]

How long did you leave the acrylic layer to dry beore adding the villainy ink? First time ysing them today and when i got to the cotton bud/spirit stage it was pulling some of the acrylic off too so not sure i rushed it in excitement to try them

[@Nemusplanta]

it might be good idea to empy the droper after use to bottle and then "rinse" it whit mineral spirits.Pump it full of spirits few times and them empty it so to dropper is empty when bottle is closed?

[@Thewiggleman]

I've had the same thought, plan is to dip the nozzle of the ichor of the damned dropper into some mineral spirits and see if it loosens it up enough first, the rest came out with a bit of effort while I was trying it out.

[@7nineofspades5]

I've ordered them but still waiting for shipment to Australia, I ordered 150ml bottles though, I haven't seen 30ml bottles.

[@TheSpazztech]

Had the same issue with the droppers with goons grim and carrion crimson.

[@Thewiggleman]

i've been finding with more use on them that I will stir the bottom of the bottle thoroughly with a spare piece of brass rod (because a lot seems to settle at the bottom) then just pour ever so gently into one of my metal ramakens, then I can just pour any excess back into the bottle.

[@joegkushner]

How long do you let the enamel dry?

[@Thewiggleman]

I usually blast it with a heat gun and it dries up in about 30 seconds to 1 min

[@jesusjim8526]

This stuff blocked both my airbrushes. The mix in these inks is trash but I do like some off the effects. I will probably go back to AK enamels

[@daniellof453]

These washes look really nice, but besides the airbrush use. What is the difference between enamel wash and oil wash? I honestly see no difference besides the enamel comes pre made.

[@Thewiggleman]

Good question! Enamels tend to dry a lot more matte whilst I've found oils to come out with a faint satin finish, working process-wise they're very similar, so for example on vehicles you might want that subtle satin finish I'd say oils would be the way to go, but on skin where you'd want your shadows to be matte then enamels would be the way to go!

[@electrictrojan6719]

Enamels are matte and wayyyyy stronger. You can make oils matte by using a lot of thinner but that means rinsing out the oil, which is what binds the oil together and sticks it to the miniature. Matte oil paint is weak paint, mostly.

[@dot0verdrive]

although I only have painted a few models with streaking grime, I'd like to add that my experience with oil washes is that I strip off the acrylic undercoats with oil washes, whereas it seems like emanel washes somehow protect the acrylics from being stripped. perhaps its something about the acrylics getting rehydrated or something with oil, but I've had much better results with streaking grime.

[@daniellof453]

​@dot0verdrive, really? My experience with white spirits has been the inverse. There's no effect on acrylics, and I get more of a satin finish. Maybe it depends on what I use.

[@imdeaded]

Reverse dry brushing.

[@Thewiggleman]

Pretty much, and it's why I love it as it's a much smoother finish to the sometimes chalky results I can get from drybrushing!

[@Wardads1]

Nope,no way I will go back to enamels and the vile stench of thinners .Can do better without them plus I'm a brush licker for life !

[@aristotle29]

You could use gamsol. There is zero smell from gamsol. Also, don't lick your brushes anyway. The pigments used in paint cause cancer, like cadmium.