Vintage Rolex Submariner - Watchmaker Technical Overview

[@johnmurphy3592]

The holy grail of most watch lovers ! Barley changed in decades, having see one been worn by some North Sea divers my late father introduced me to I fell in love with its appearance and design , I was about 12 ! A great video of a stunning piece of horology Richard , preserving its provenance by keeping its character bumps and scratches but reviving the heart of the watch , fantastic ! Loved this I one , lights out time again ….. 😴

[@RobCCTV]

Well that certainly LOOKED like a "significant" amount of bubbles to me. ...but I bow to the experience and words of Richard, as he clearly knows a billion times more about watches than I do.

[@renebense]

Richard, this video is awesome. You make it look as if any well equipped determined technical mind can pull this off. We all know the reality is less simple. A watchmaker is a very special profession. Without proper training, knowing exactly what you are doing, makes any attempt a disaster. Maintaining a very special vintage watch is well worth doing. OK it will cost a couple of hundred pounds, but immediately the value of the watch is increased with that amount, so the cost is virtual zero. On top of that of course, the vintage watch gets back in rotation and will spark again on the owners wrist. You have a great job and make proud video's showing exactly what it is that makes it a great job. Chapeau.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Rene .... you are too kind sir! The points you make about keeping these beautiful watches running is very well made. I am certainly a very lucky guy who loves his job and has a phone with which to film some of it. Thanks for this great feedback. Richard

[@magna750]

Well Major, before I started watching your channel, I liked Rolex. You taught me how to love them. Excellent work sir.

[@npcforyou]

Thanks so much Richard. I’ve never seen a Rolex servicing before. I’m subscribed and looking forward to your other videos. 💕🕵🏼‍♀️

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi M, so pleased you enjoyed this and welcome aboard! Richard

[@buffalolizard]

Richard, this was an extraordinary lecture in Rolex watch repair!!!

[@johncoyle8191]

Brilliant stuff as usual . The skill and patience of you guys never ceases to amaze me . Changing bracelets and batteries is my level so appreciate the level of knowledge and skill required for craftsmen like yourself . 16610 submariner is my favourite watch . Tried to get 116610 ln before update and I'm on the list for 126610 allegedly. Think I'm going going to bite the bullet and go for 16610 (2003 ) as it's my son's birth year . One day it will be his

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

The Rolex 16610 is maybe the classic watch to get. Rolex 3135 encased in the classic style. That more recent watches are great watches but this and the blue two tone 16613 are my real favourite submariners. I would do it in a heartbeat. Richard

[@johncoyle8191]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker thanks for the advice Richard

[@thisispw]

Excellent work Richard, with your knowledge and reasoning behind all your observations make me realise how regular servicing is worth it especially when spending this amount of cash. Letting expensive kit get to a poor condition just does not make sense. 'A Rolex in an expensive world of hurt' was my favourite phrase. You have shown your skill as a watchmaker and as a presenter.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Peter ... I am so pleased you liked this video and thank you so much for your encouraging feedback. Yes, mistakes made when working on Rolex can be a very expensive which is why I try to highlight the places they are most likely to occur. Thanks again. Richard

[@Giovan_Nino]

Wow what a great video, most impressed, never seen a service in such close up detail, and the movement looked new when you finished. It’s incredible that this type of movement looks in such good serviceable condition after so long. I’m guessing the 3135 would be equally impressive. Would be interested to hear how the final regulation went, I’m guessing it’s back to superlative chronometer level..

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Giovan ... thank you so much. The regulation, which I have just completed is currently between +5 and +7 at 260 degrees and 0.0 beat error. The beat is very very steady. So not quite superlative chronometer but certainly back to chronometer. The 3135 is also a very nice movement and slightly easier to work on from the watchmakers point of view. So pleased you enjoyed this. Richard

[@bangy55]

Thanks again, Richard. I truly enjoyed this video. Learned a couple of neat tricks I guess I should have already known. :)

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Chris .... It was fun to make and I am so pleased you enjoyed it and found it helpful. Good to hear from you sir! Richard

[@IntellectualKetchup]

I love all your videos. I pulled this video up because I am building a frankenwatch out of a Ginault Ocean Rover and Submariner dial and movement.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Intellectual Ketchup ... that project sounds 'Not Trivial' to complete and will be very special when you have finished. It's great when folks which your amount of knowledge like my videos and find them helpful so thank you so much for sharing this. Richard

[@Hans_Wilsdorf]

Great job, these watches are truly made to be perpetual as long as the are looked after by professionals such as yourself they may go on to last for generations.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hans .... you are so right and it's a joy to work with your legacy sir! Richard :)

[@PINKFL0YD-s2h]

Thank God for collecting. My father was an antique dealer and told me about the scrapping of gold pocket watches and the loss of the fantastic quality movements. I was lucky to have hands on time with fusee movements and others. Carriage clocks deserve more press than they get. They are to this day fantastic travelling clocks, though better left by the bed!

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi STAGGERLEE ... couldn't agree more which is why I did a video on a restoration of one ... kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZqpfJ-OhNafmck :) Richard

[@PINKFL0YD-s2h]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker Thanks for the pointer. Off to see it!

[@JonTheComputerDoctor]

Superb video Richard, I am training myself in Watch repair and can say it is not easy but well worth the effort. I hope I can be as good as you one day.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Jon ... thank you for the great feedback. Can't think of many things worth attaining that are easy. When it gets difficult I always tell myself that if it was easy someone else would be doing it. Bit cliched but it always boosts my morale. I am so happy that you are studying this discipline and am certain it will pay back all the effort you put in many times over. Thanks again. Richard

[@sunxxone]

Richard Perrett Watchmaker Hello, Where do you buy your Rolex spares from, ? Is it that well known material dealer in Romford?

[@JonTheComputerDoctor]

@@sunxxone That is maybe something Richard does not want to discuss, I could be wrong of course. No offense intended to you and I hope you dont mind my reply.

[@paullewis266]

Richard, absolutely brilliant my friend, well worth watching ( pardon the pun) so informative 👍🏻

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Thanks Paul ... I do really like these 16800 models. Very retro cool and so functional after a proper service. Thanks for the feedback. Richard

[@jwalkerjr]

Would have loved to have seen how you fixed the bezel issue. That said, wonderful video as usual. Thank you!

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi junior882 ... There's maybe a follow up on the way and if I do it I will include the bezel fix. Richard

[@johnwalker7178]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker Very cool. Thanks!

[@boristabacsplatt6609]

Very good Richard keep 'em coming. I'm a sucker for Rolex watches and loved both videos. My "new watch" kitty is slowly building and in a few more years I'll be in the market for a Submariner or the grandad of all modern dive watches, the Blancpain 50 Fathoms. Unless, of course, I change my mind over the period.

[@81diverdan]

awesome video, thanks for sharing. i thought the earlier 16800s had painted on indices, with the white gold edged indices being introduced around 1985?

[@8702meadow]

You’re correct - in 82 the sapphire crystal 1,000’ was introduced with no edging on the indices. I’d say it’s a 1985 ish model

[@hothmobile100]

Nice video! I wish you showed us how to install the new tension spring/washer that made the bezel turn more freely. Also, do you have a service video of the 1520/30 or 1570 no date?

[@carloscosta4212]

Great videos. Hugely entertaining. Thank you.

[@philclurow4753]

Hi Richard, I understand why you test the waterproofness without the movement in but surely when you fit the movement back there is a chance of the waterproofness being compromised ?

[@naknakacknak]

Excellent. Interesting, when he showed the old dirty drum, there are a lot of little bugs crawling around.

[@stationplaza4631]

@0:37 Fly passing by checking out it out, seems to be saying "Wow...It is really really cool !"

[@Blue_3rd]

I found this wonderful video by accident. Subscribed and looking forward to more 😃👍

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi D Guitar ... thank you so much for this kind feedback and welcome aboard! Richard

[@SC-lo5ez]

Thanks for this video. Something I do not get: does a 60 meters pressure test in a lab garanties a 300 meters waterproofness as the watch should be ?

[@kevgermany]

No

[@SC-lo5ez]

@@kevgermany I was expecting an answer from Richard Perret on his view of best servicing a Rolex :)

[@kevgermany]

@@SC-lo5ez Then say 'only Richard may answer'. Sorry, only trying to help. But if you don't test to the rated value, you can't certify to that value. And there are some who would say that by removing the movement, testing and replacing the movement you invalidate the test because of the risk of gasket damage. And if you're not aware, boilers, gas cylinders, pressure vessels etc. are tested to well over the rated working pressure for safety because low pressure tests are not enough.

[@TucsonBillD]

Hi Richard. Wonderful video of a proper service for this Rolex. I currently own a 1991 Submariner, which should have the Caliber 3135 movement. It loses a couple of seconds a day, which should be in spec for a watch of its age. However, it also has the Tritium lume (as does this example) and due to its age, the glow is almost non existent. This is normal for a watch of its age... as you mentioned Tritium has a half life of 12.4 years. Your example, being 39 years old... maybe about 10% left. You are correct in taking precautions with the suspected Tritium dust since Tritium is an alpha emitter, which is only dangerous if you breathe it inside of your body. Do you think with an older Tritium dial should be repainted with modern phosphorescent paint or just leave it alone? On mine, I suspect that the hour hand and the bezel insert have been replaced, since these two glow strongly, while the rest glow with a faint whisper due to its age, and it fades after a day in the dark.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Bill ... I am cautious as I have to get my nose really close to the dial to do my work. For most folks this is not an issue. I would be tempted to leave any vintage Rolex dial exactly as it is ... and maybe have another watch to wear when you know lume is going to be needed. Vintage Rolex is just too collectable to tamper with I guess. Good to hear from you. Richard

[@yashav2949]

Richard Perrett Watchmaker Maybe try using a respirator like the 3M N95 if you’re that worried about the tritium. There are solutions for work on radium (which you mentioned not treating in a previous video) as well.

[@jfdomega7938]

Yasha V and a bio hazard suit too! Jk!

[@twozerouk]

The winding pinion was exactly the same problem on my fathers 1978 Datejust, it would only wind after much fiddling with the stem. Can the auto wind put as much energy into the mainspring as using the manual option?

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi twozerouk. It winds great in the second position as the clutch teeth are so deep and fully engaged. Not as quick with the auto wind but if the watch is being worn everyday the manual wind so not really required. It's just useful if the watch is off the wrist for a week or so to give it a quick power boost before reverting to autowind on the move. Good to hear from you! Richard

[@twozerouk]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker Richard thanks for the information I have a non date submariner and it's nice to see whats rumbling away on my wrist. During the pressure test you mentioned the Vostok failing a pressure test but I thought it was an Invicta that let go in your other video? Bought a red Vostok after seeing your video and am very pleased with it.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

It was an Invicta ... but I used it in my Amphibian video just to show the power of the forces involved. Haha! The red Vostok is lush! Richard

[@ricky6019]

Nice video, as usual! One question: are the two jewels from the calendar display unused? And if so, WHY? Just to add two of them telling the movement’s got 27 instead 25?

[@ianhand5006]

There’s an o ring inside the pendant tube as well.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Ian ... I should know stuff like that! I'm gonna go now and check. Good shout sir. Richard

[@tagg976]

Excellent video as always sir ;-) I submariner has to be my favourite Rolex ever made... I love them! :-D

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Tagg ... so good to here from you. They are certainly very cool and they should be on G1098 for sure .... hope all good with you. Richard

[@tagg976]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker All good this end thank you sir, I do hope you are well also ;-)

[@apyorbitz]

Great video. I wish you showed your detail in the disassembly and assembly, with lubrication and all.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Thank you apyorbitz! .... yes this was more of a 'technical overview' rather than a detailed tutorial on servicing this movement. I some of my other videos on Rolex I do go into a lot more detail. Thanks for the feedback. Richard

[@andrewwolkowich]

Why was the black grease moving as you filmed?

[@jimbeck3230]

Great Video! How much has the tritium dial faded after 30 years?

[@stitchpo]

Great video as always! Is working with radium and tritium dangerous?

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi stitchpo ... radiation always deserves respect and the danger to a watchmaker is they inhale the stuff. I do not personally work on anything containing radium. That stuff is nasty ... half life of 1863 years and gamma rays (will penetrate skin). Tritium is not so bad but you still don't really want any in you lungs. I work on tritium dials that are in good condition and I handle them carefully, I figure this is way safer that driving on the motorway which I also do a lot so why not. That's my logic ... if you want to learn more google 'radium girls scandal' .... hope this is helpful. Richard

[@stitchpo]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker Thank you! Oh yes, I know about those poor women! Absolutely tragic! . . . So if someone comes to you with an old radium watch, you say sorry, no? Are there watchmakers who sort of specialize in working with radium lume? Thanks again, it's fascinating. I love old Omegas, for instance, but (and I know that vintage watch people would laugh at me) I'd be wary of owning one because of the radium.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Several times a month I have to decline radium work. Sometime the movement looks great and I am tempted but is a simple rule I have so I just always decline. I will also decline if I am unsure if the lume is tritium or radium. Some folks do not register it as a problem but then some folks go ice climbing and I am not about to do that either! Thanks again. Richard

[@stitchpo]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker Thanks!

[@ronaldzeigler9057]

I have a 1680 I bought in 1976 it is in great shape the only thing I changed is the crystal. How much is it worth?

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Ronald .... prices go up and down so the best thing is to look on something like Chrono24 search for Rolex 1680 and see the range of prices being asked for. If you have the original box nad papers then the value is higher. That is a nice piece you have there and I think it will only increase in value so I would not sell unless you really want to. Hope this makes sense. Richard

[@philipsdefreville6138]

There appears to be gold text on the dial, which is the incorrect dial for an all steel Sub.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Well spotted... this was the correct answer to the question I posed at the end of the first video featuring this watch. Nice one! Richard

[@philipsdefreville6138]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker Thanks Richard. Well for a modern Sub anyway, of course vintage Subs had "gilt" dials.

[@24hourgmtchannel64]

There was never a gold printed dial on a SS 16800. That gloss gold dial is from a two tone gold and black 16803 or 16613. Probably sourced out by the previous watchmaker during the accident repair due to the crystal shattering and damaging the original mat dial is my guess. They a much cheaper used than an original mint mat dial.

[@Kalmar917]

After servicing the Submariner from 1980 properly could you scuba dive with it and use it as it would of been used back then?

[@yashav2949]

Great stuff. Thanks Richard! Just one question about the silicon on the gaskets, how is silicon preferable to vacuum grease? What’s the Rolex recommendation?

[@rcm4u2]

It’s silicone grease, same as vacuum grease.

[@Jamestreeman]

A 1980 16800 should have a matte dial correct? Does this one have a service dial

[@matrixmirage2148]

Hello, Richard! I'm curious about how you feel about the Omega Calibre 8500 and 8900 as a watchmaker: I've heard quite a few horror stories about how they can be lemons, how expensive it is to get them serviced, and how few watchmakers can actually work on them. Are these stories true?

[@gergemall]

Beautiful, thank you.

[@carguillo1]

hi how much dose a service cost thanks kev

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Kev ... please email me on richard@richardperrett,com and I can give you all the information on this. Thanks Richard

[@timothythomas1626]

I would love to hear a Professionals Thoughts on the Chinese PT5000 Movement . As Aliexpress Sellers are increasingly touting it as a Premium movement with Higher & Higher Prices for watches carrying the PT5000..

[@gaffs82]

What was the final amp?

[@AdrianFuchsFey]

Please, if possible, make a video servicing a 1680. Thanks!

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Adrian... Next time I get one on my bench I will make it so! Thanks for the feedback. Richard

[@AdrianFuchsFey]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker Thank you, Richard!

[@Robbie1z]

What's the typical cost to service a running 90's Rolex Submariner?

[@dennistafeltennis1190]

Rolex for me is the number one watch to own especially the submariner.

[@MichaelWilliams-mo1vv]

I didn't realise the models with the white gold surrounds on the indeces and the glossy dial were around in 1981. I worked in central London at that time and would often pass Rolex dealers. In 1981 l had a Tudor snowflake submariner and the Rolex submariners l saw at that time all had matte dials. I bought a submariner date in 1982. It had a sapphire crystal 300m water resistance but the dial was matte just like the older 1680 submariner. I always assumed the model depicted in the video came along a little later like 84.

[@Shavenuw129]

It's a shame you're not accepting services at present - I have a 16610 which needs a service and new crystal.

[@logwind]

Great video.

[@Brandon-xo4pk]

Is it just me or do the texts on the dial look 'gilty'? Ive never seen a 16800 like that before

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

You are correct brandon ... the dial on this piece is a bit of a mystery. It is not as one would expect but looks better in my view than the normal 16800 dial. Well observed. Richard

[@Brandon-xo4pk]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker 100 Percent agree. I do like the look of it. Massively enjoy your video, keep up the awesome work :)

[@1959Berre]

The white stuff on the dial definately is not tritium. Tritium is a hydrogen isotope with two extra neutrons in the nucleus, so tritium is a gas. If it were tritium it would sit in little glass tubes that are very well sealed.

[@ramoneramlingam3723]

Thank you for the awesome informative video, may I ask what cleaning solution and rinse you using in the ultrasonic? Thank you again

[@nicholasdavies8795]

Hi Richard, this footage is an excellent insight into some very intricate engineering . Thank you ! On the Watchfinder website , which is well known, they sell vintage Rolex Submariners for immense prices. Yet they describe the timepiece as NO WATER RESISTANCE ?? I've tried to find out but no response . Can you clarify please. Many thanks .

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Nicholas ... thank you for your kind feedback! It will be because the watch has not had the gaskets renewed or been pressure tested and hence any waterproofing that once existed could in no way be relied upon and to cover themselves against any claim (the watch they are selling is after all called a 'submariner') they will include this phrase. Hopes this helps. Richard

[@jono8884]

How long does a service like this usually take?

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Jon, 10 hours + test. Richard

[@hrogers9325]

I would like to have seen more detail on stripping down and assembly. I suppose you've only got so long.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi there! Yes squeezing a 10 hr service into 18 minutes is tricky but this video was meant as a technical overview rather than full service video.. Have made a note to do this for the 3035 movement. Richard

[@DutchClawz]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker 10 hrs Richard? You are getting old😜

[@aristeidislychounas2921]

I am not a watch maker but I would call the pressure test a huge fail! As far as I know there should not be any bubbles coming out of the case. In this particular watch it looks like the crystal gasket needs to be changed.

[@nicholasdavies8795]

Aristeidis Lychounas I would fail that test ...... good for 60 metres ??? It's capable of more pressure than that ! Agreed !

[@philo2197]

Why pressure test it for 60 meters when it’s a submariner rated for 300 meters?

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Phil. ... Because that's the deepest my equipment can manage. Trust me if 99.999% of owners vintage Rolex owners find themselves 60 meters below the surface the last thing they will be worrying about is 'is my Rolex still going?' . This test, my test shown here, however does answer exactly what must owners want to know ... 'can I safely wear it swimming or in the shower?'. It also gave me the confidence to throw a $8K watch that I don't own into a rock pool. Hope this helps. Richard

[@peterfoskett]

I assume or hope you used another stunt watch for the photos on the rocks and under water!

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Hi Peter... Haha! No in this instance and with the owners full blessing the real watch took a dunk in the rock pool and was left to dry in the sun. It was the main message of the video so it had to be the real deal. I was taking no chances because the pressure test was good. Good to hear from you. Richard

[@francisfrancis4219]

It seemed like you didn’t want to find a leak.

[@kevgermany]

Interesting. Perhaps you should have retested, that looked like a fail to me.

[@Exodus26.13Pi]

Music and wind volumes vs words.

[@justin_hanson5750]

to take the hands off and put on, i just use my small flat head screw drivers

[@glennpowell3444]

I am a pretty good mechanically minded guy and build and fabricate and plumb and so on.I can usually fix anything,but a watch is so tiny ? It all makes sense but my thumbs and digits and poor eyes could not attempt this and if I did it would quite possibly go very wrong! I would resort to using foul language, stamp on the remains,leave my wife and hate my mother for giving birth to me! So tiny! Brilliant.

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Haha! Brilliant! It is pretty intricate work but take it slow and start on Seiko 5 watches and the rest is just practice. You will break a shed load of old Seikos, but hey that's what they're for! No cussing, no marital breakups or self loathing ... just gradual movement towards high end watchmaking. Simples! Love your feedback sir! Richard

[@glennpowell3444]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker Cheers!

[@PINKFL0YD-s2h]

Err is a nobble a Cam? 😂 Nobble sounds better ;)

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Haha! Hi STAGGERLEE ... in this instance it's a nobble on a cam. Richard

[@karen055033921]

👍

[@Arckitekt]

Opens case and sees a Japanese electric movement...

[@prickelpit2095]

Und immer in Englisch, verstehe leider nix. Wo ich das doch so gerne verfolgen möchte. 🙄

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Es tut mir leid, Michael, aber mein Deutschland ist sehr klein. Ich denke, ich muss meine Videos untertiteln

[@prickelpit2095]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker Danke für deine Antwort

[@ItsTimePictures]

Degraded tritium. Cool.

[@DutchClawz]

Ah, back when an submariner was affordable!

[@tompiscitelli2548]

16 people are noob heads! lol

[@luisrumualdo3653]

Fantastico por tus conocimento fe relojes . Pero hablas demasiado .

[@elekn711]

That poor abused rolex ....

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Haha! That was me being vey kind to it .... just wait until me 'what should happen to a fake Rolex video!' Good to hear from you. Richard

[@elekn711]

@@richardperrettwatchmaker look forward to your next vid richard !!!!

[@luisrumualdo3653]

Y me aburris

[@4WDIESEL1]

GET RID OF THE MUSIC PLEASE.

[@Robbielockstock]

First ;)

[@richardperrettwatchmaker]

Yay! Always good to be first Rob! Richard :)

[@MybeautifulandamazingPrincess]

This will sound made up but it's actually true, my sister found one of these, an older gen Rolex submariner watch on the beach near our house couple of years ago, but the owner had a custom case back engraved with his contact info, so she managed to find him and return the watch