This old Omega Chronostop watch doesn't run well... and there's a dirty reason

[@randyallen2771]

Great video, I'd never even seen one of these before. Seemed like a nice simple movement (for a chronograph) but it's hard to believe that it's related to the cal 861. I've seen older Seiko chronos rebuilt and they are a tangle of springs compared to this. I'm curious how you knew the mainspring needed replacing. It didn't look deformed. The final product is a handsome little watch. It reminds me of the new H. Moser Streamliner. Final thought, I have to smile every time you mention DNA material as the first time I heard that term was back when Bill Clinton was president. Keep up the great work, I'm always looking forward to the next program. Cheers

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hi Randy, thanks for that! It's indeed a cool watch and not very common to see in the wild. If you work on an 860 or 861 you'll recognize the movement although those have quite a few more pieces. I'll do an 861 shortly also. I didn't mention it, but the mainspring end was slightly damaged and wouldn't stay properly against the barrel wall, so that's why I needed to change it. Great question and a sharp eye, sir! And yes, this is a very, very different kind of DNA 😅

[@sheemondallasgeorgia]

But I wore one whole in highschool. I bought it with the summer vacation earnings (hauling soda pop cases to and from the delivery truck. Omega watches were rather inexpensive at the time and place.

[@petergoulding2421]

@@sheemondallasgeorgia Ahh that is interesting the inexpensive bit, My dad bought 2 in '72 or '73 they were duty free in the Naafi. I still have it and would not sell it. Interesting to note these Chronostops came in lots of different styles with both metal and leather bracelets but they all had a metal deployant clasp it was an elongated clasp so you could have your name engraved I believe.

[@Mahlgraf]

@@petergoulding2421 An elonged clasp is, at least as far as I know, to put it over a divers suit.

[@petergoulding2421]

@Mahlgraf Nope it is not a Divers watch, the elongated clasp was so you could have your name engraved

[@eatswodo]

I was given a Chronostop for my 18th birthday, in 1973. Mine has a date, and the original mesh bracelet - and, after nearly 50 years, is one of my most cherished possessions. Watching this video was wonderful. I wind mine every day, and wear it regularly.

[@VintageWatchServices]

They're great quality!

[@pskupferman]

the chronostop movement is truly a thing of beauty, especially the spiral design on the brass

[@davidaylsworth8964]

“When I was your age …”. That really had me laughing. I may never open a watch to repair it but I had the satisfaction of repairing machine tools for a lot of my career. I’m enjoying the channel.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@DaveMGmovies]

Love the watchmaking skill -- and the dry humour. Excellent entertainment.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Dave, thanks for watching and for your kind words! Great to hear you like the channel, much more to come!

[@michaelhubbert3300]

I have this very same watch which I bought at the PX at Camp Evans, Vietnam, in 1969. Same dial color and new leather strap more or less the same as what you have there. I hadn’t worn it for years until about a year ago when I found it while going through desk drawers. I wound it and it seemed to be working so I bought a new band and wore it for a few week. Then thought I would try the stopwatch (which I had hardly ever used) and the pusher was very sluggish. Then the watch stopped working altogether. I made a few enquirers about having it serviced and was quoted something around $600. The watchmaker said it was because it was a Chrongraph. Sadly, I can’t justify spending that much. I also have a manual wind, no date, Dynamic and a lovely gold Rolex dress watch, also manual wind, both of which need servicing/repair. These other 2 also came from the PX. I worked there and got a substantial discount. I am quite tempted to take up watch repair after watching your videos and those of the Watch Repair Channel. I do a bit of camera repair on old and totally manual film cameras. Seems watches and Cameras a close cousins. Anyway, I’m trying to talk myself out of it! But, hey, thanks for your splendid video and for sharing your knowledge. Best, Michael

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Michael, thanks for watching and for your story! It can indeed get pretty prohibitive if you need to service a few watches, that's what got me to start learning how to do it myself also. I had 42 watches at that time, mostly relatively cheap vintage watches, and doing the math on service costs made me realize I couldn't afford having all of them services. Watchmaking is a great hobby that you can do for a long time and nowadays there are so many good resources out there to help you learn fast. I love Mark Lovick's videos also and there are other channels which are great to learn from as well. Mark's online course is great and you should look into the Distance Learning Course from the British Horological Institute. Good luck with it :)

[@floydingram603]

Like vintage watches, thanks a lot for this video.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Glad you like them! More to come, so stay tuned :)

[@kc9602]

Like the channel; HATE YT-imposed, unskippable ads!!

[@soundmindtv2911]

15:59 I like how you do your endstones, assembling them with the chaton then installing it. Much better than trying to flip an oiled cap jewel into an already-installed chaton like I've been doing 😂 🙈

[@VintageWatchServices]

That sounds difficult indeed! 😁

[@soundmindtv2911]

@@VintageWatchServices I'm learning every day 😁 🙈 (thanks to helpful people like you.)

[@josephlanguemi]

Nice! Missed the case drop in the cleaner.

[@alaindrolet_atlt_2019]

Very interesting Omega chrono movement, I very appreciate this video ! Thank you !! 👌

[@VintageWatchServices]

Glad you enjoyed it, Alain!

[@SubTroppo]

Thank you for the mention of the Driver version of this watch; it going on my wish list.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hi Pablo, yes, it's a very cool version !

[@991lung]

I recently bought a Chronostop UFO in almost NOS condition for way under 1000€. I can‘t think of any watch where you get such a high quality chronograph movement for so cheap, they are definitely worth their money

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hi Kilian, thanks for watching and for your comment! Yes, you can find Chronostops well under 1000€ in very fine condition. The Seamaster models are more expensive and also the Drivers, but you can get quite a lot of value for money with the Chronostop. Congrats on your purchase!

[@mike44njdevils1]

You made my day referencing BHI. This is the route I'm going to take since I'm in the US...and since you won't take me on as an apprentice. 😉

[@VintageWatchServices]

Great to hear, Michael! It's a very good route to go when you are serious about learning horology .

[@wendyglasgow6394]

Lovely job and very informative. Had my own chronograph serviced recently so double interesting. Thank you .

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hi Wendy, thanks for watching and for your comment! Chronographs are indeed some of the most fascinating complications, and this model is not very common to find, so that makes it even more fun!

[@oxfamshop]

Fantastic watch . Great work

[@francispalmer9737]

That was great and thank you for the information you gave me on line for the 7S26B movement balance change from B to A because it worked, my SNXS77 Seiko keeps great time now. Cheers

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hi Francis, thanks for watching and great to hear your 7S26 works nicely 😄

[@albibros87]

i have one of this watches but mine has also a date complication, I cherish it a lot because it has been passed down from my gradfather that used to be a watchmaker

[@VintageWatchServices]

That's great to hear, Alberto :) These watches will last a couple of lifetimes when properly cared for and one day maybe your grandson will cherish it!

[@tiberiuvincze8288]

Nice watch, so we saw a nice slice from the moon watch! Nekkid is very good in polishing, and watch repair channel post something some 6 months ago, nice video , thanks!

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hi Tiberiu, thanks for watching! This is indeed a simpler version of the movement inside the moonwatch, but I'm also doing an 861 in not too long. Not a moonwatch, unfortunately 😞

[@westend3019]

Well done and good thoughts along the way!

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks westend!

[@bojidarvasilev8854]

it is a pleasure for me to watch your work 👍👍

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks so much, Bojidar! More to come, so stay tuned 😁

[@catfishgray3696]

THEON, GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO...

[@peterhawley6273]

Hi don’t underrate you own channel l find it very good and informative keep it up Pete

[@gromit1996]

Thanks again, Stian. Lovely watch. I love the @Nekkid Watchmaker and The Watch Repair Channel. Red Dead Restoration, Wristwatch Revival and Richard Perrett Watchmaker are also entertaining and fun to watch.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks Clay! I very much like those channels also :) My retro watches and Chronoglide are also good. 👍

[@ronaldlinkenhoker5705]

Another great video. Very enjoyable.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks Ronald!

[@guataco]

Oh my goodness, I still have the same watch. Was a gift from my parents while I was in middle school (1968/1969). Still running but years without service. Have not authorized dealer in my country, and outside is pretty expensive. You brought back lovely memories. Wonderful job. Thank you. P.D. Do you know where can I find the technical sketch for this watch? Is 865 also. Thanks.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Very cool! It's a very nice watch and having it since new is very rare. You can go to watchguy.co.uk and check the Technical information section there, he should have the tech sheet.

[@johnsrabe]

14:00 memory. Amen, fellow middle-aged person. The worst part is that you always think you will remember where everything goes, because it’s so incredibly obvious. But then, a few days later, you have no recollection of even the most oddly shaped part and where it goes. That’s why I don’t fix watches; I only fix unimportant things like cars.

[@VintageWatchServices]

😂 Cars, yeah... who needs 'em! I sure am happy we have cameras easily available nowadays so we can take pictures and immediately look at them... that's a massive help.

[@timconnett2741]

First let me say I love your videos. Excellent camera work and witty commentary - thanks for taking the time to put it all together for us. I am a complete amateur and am planning my first service of a bargain watch I found and had a question about shock settings: are they interchangeable on either side of the movement or specific for dial and balance sides? Thanks and look forward to your new videos

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Tim, thanks for watching and for your question! The shock settings are typically interchangeable, but sometimes the balance wheel shock setting on the balance/train side are different. As a rule of thumb, if one of the end stones are thicker or wider, they belong on the train side. Any rule has its exceptions however, so it's always best to make sure you take a good look (and a lot of photos) of the parts as you disassemble the movement.

[@alanmckinnon6791]

I must say I really like watching these older Omega movements being worked on. It's very satisfying and soothing, I think it's the coppery colour of the plates. What I don't get though, is why a 60 second chrono? What's it for? I understand a rotating bezel to mark the minutes when starting, that makes a poor man's minute counter. But 60 seconds only? Who would use such a thing and who did Omega sell it to?

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hi Alan, old Omegas are indeed great to work on. The colour might be part of that, but they're also quite forgiving and straight forward. The 60 second chronograph might seem like it's missing a bit, but when you think about it there are tons of things that take less than a minute, perhaps even most things you would use a stopwatch functionality for. And it's of course also true that pretty much no one actually uses their chronograph watches for actually timing anything... The watch was marketed as a more affordable chronograph as compared to the 860/861 watches, and apparently was quite popular with doctors, engineers etc. But I'm willing to bet my wife's fortune that most people buying it did so for the gimmick effect 😁

[@alanmckinnon6791]

Silly me I should have thought it through properly. I have things I do myself where I time actions less than 60 seconds, but I usually just count the seconds off. Day job is computer admin person for an ISP and a huge bugbear is programs that take too long to get going. 5 seconds, 10 seconds, 30 seconds delay all have very specific issues causing that dealy. Me the watch fan should stop counting thousand and one, thousand and two, and start looking at the thing on my wrist :-)

[@palmeadia]

Excellent video Sir ! I have recently purchased one of the Italian jumbo versions of the Chronostop and now know where to send it for servicing! Subscribed

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks for watching and for subscribing! The Italian "UFO" version is very cool indeed 👍

[@larrykassebaum1926]

Outstanding video:)

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thank you very much, Larry!

[@boydsargeant7496]

Great video Stian. I think I should watch again, there was so much info, thanks! When choosing a new mainspring for a vintage watch, which has less power, a longer or shorter spring?

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Boyd, what we think of as the power of a mainspring is called the elastic moment, and this is measured through a certain segment of a circle (typically radian). There is a formula for this, which basically says that for two equal mainsprings in all other ways, one that is shorter would provide more force by a factor of 12 to 1 for the length difference. That's also in line with common sense, in that a short piece of metal is much more rigid than a longer piece. For a wristwatch mainspring, the length per circle segment will not differ a whole lot, but a longer mainspring in the same barrel will also mean that it would need to be thinner, and the thickness per radian actually has a massive impact; to the power of 3 (or cubed). So a mainspring twice as thick will be eight times as "strong". Mainspring height also matters but height is restricted by the barrel height, so there's not too much you can do here. Not that you would want to do much either, as a mainspring that is too high or not high enough will cause barrel wear and ununiform power release. Thus if you go with a slightly longer spring than the recommended one for your movement (which you can find online, for instance here: watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/mainsprings) you will typically get a longer power reserve given that the spring will have more coils, but if the spring is thinner, you will get less force and thus less amplitude. For older watches I would prefer to go with a slightly thinner and slightly longer mainspring if I cannot find the suggested size, as that will spare the movement some wear. A thicker mainspring will make for a higher amplitude but also more force on the wheel bearings and thus more wear. In general you're safer to simply go with the recommended size if you can find it.

[@nukvar23]

Excellent and informative thanks! quick question, how do u decide what is the right amount of strength or thickness to be reduced when fitting a new mainspring to a vintage watch?

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks for watching and for your question! It probably makes common sense that the shorter and thicker a spring is, the "stronger" it is and this the more torque it will produce. The third element to consider is the height of the spring. The height is however something we want to be careful with changing, as that might cause wear on the barrel. The length of the spring is also tricky, in the sense that the barrel is probably already "full" with the standard mainspring, so putting in a much longer one won't do much. There should be space for a slightly long mainspring, but in general what you want to do is choose a slightly thinner one if you want to reduce the power. Just beware that changing the thickness has a big impact, as the thickness affects the torque to the power of 3. Mainsprings for wristwatches are typically between 0.10 and 0.15 mm thick, and if you go down 0.005 or at the most 0.01 in thickness you should be okay.

[@gregorybenne4505]

Love your videos! I have been looking for tweezers like the ones you are using but everything I fine seems cheap and flimsy. Where did you find yours? Thanks!

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Gregory, the tweezers are called 7A-BRA from Regine Horology. You can get them directly from them at [e-mail]

[@Watcheyes]

Learning alot from you. What type of rubber stick do you use for dial? Thank you /watcheyes

[@VintageWatchServices]

I got these from CousinsUK, the general name for them are rubysticks. I think you can probably search rubysticks on eBay and find some there. They come in various sizes.

[@Watcheyes]

@@VintageWatchServices Great, ill check them out, thank you

[@47zero]

Beautiful finishes on the movement (when you grey nose hair is not in the way 😉)

[@VintageWatchServices]

😂

[@ragazzi25]

Wow, amazing work! Do you service most vintage watches? I have a Universal Genève that needs a good cleaning...

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks so much! I do service vintage watches but basically only ones I have bought and am preparing for sale. I don't take on customer servicing as I just don't have the time and in most cases there are well qualified (maybe more than me) watchmakers near you who will do it for half the cost of shipping back and forth to Switzerland :)

[@MichaelWilliams-mo1vv]

With this particular chronograph would you let the chrono second hand run all the time to act as a second hand or would that affect the timekeeping and power reserve?

[@VintageWatchServices]

It wouldn't impact timekeeping or power reserve significantly, no. A lot of owners let it run continuously. The chrono parts will see ever so slightly more wear if it runs continuously.

[@Biombo3]

Hi. Are the tweezers made of brass? What is the importance of working with brass twezers? Thank you

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello, thanks for your question! My tweezers are indeed made from brass. They are softer than steel ones and thus reduces the risk of making scratches. Given that they softer than steel they also make it a little bit easier to pick things up.

[@ssnerd583]

I would feel terrible if I destroyed any watch....even a cheap Timex. My father was a gun collector and had MANY 'modern' pistols...pistols made since 1890 or so, and mostly military pistols. When I was 13yo, I disassembled one of his Mauser C96 pistols.....and it took me over a week of working on that pistol for a couple hours a day to get it reassembled properly. The gun library that my father had helped a LOT with diagrams, but that only goes so far. There were several oddities about that pistol that made it APPEAR to want to be assembled in one way when it actually it needed to be reassembled in another arrangement. I made a frame out of old fishing rods to drape a sheet over and that over me at the bench while disassembling guns that I hadnt taken apart before....there is always that 'OH SH*T' spring that tries to disappear into the ether, never to be seen again.....and the sheet can save you that search....SOMETIMES....lol Thank you for allowing us to enjoy your expertise in not destroying watches :)

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks for watching and for sharing your story! Picking things apart and trying to hide the evidence is just part of boyhood, I think, but when you even managed to put it back together you can be proud :) It's actually a good idea to use a sheet to catch small parts, that's actually the reason watchmakers wear those white doctor's coats! Some even put a sheet underneath the desk as a small sail in which to catch falling parts. But as you get better, it gets less necessary (although I was on my knees last night trying to find a tiny part that dropped from a movement I was working on) 😂

[@itzhaccroitoru4082]

you have done a nice job

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks a lot, Itzhak!

[@Jon651]

This is a late post, but I have a question: On mechanical chronographs such as the one in this video, when it is marked "17 jewels" is that 17 jewels for just the base movement (as on a non-chronograph watch) or for the entire movement including the chronograph complication? Thank you for an entertaining and informative video.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Jon, this is also a late reply, sorry about that :) The number of jewels is always for the entire movement, thus including any complication or module.

[@donnyboon2896]

When I was in Bodø, Norway in 1984, the funniest thing I think I saw was Norwegians taking skiing lessons. I had thought Norwegians were born with skis on their feet. 😃😃😃

[@VintageWatchServices]

😂 They are, but there isn't always snow under their feet!

[@richm4120]

Thanks for posting your latest video. I have learned so much from all your videos. What are those curved tweezers you are using? Need to find a pair.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hi Rich, thanks for watching and for your question! I had a hard time finding those myself... The ones I use are from Regine Horology and I buy them from Beco-Technic.com

[@richm4120]

@@VintageWatchServices They are brass correct?

[@VintageWatchServices]

Yep, they are brass. Steel curved tip ones are a dime a dozen, but brass ones are hard to find...

[@stephenoconnell6255]

Hi, can you tell me how I can view your for sale watches plz and keep up the good work

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Stephen, you can see all my watches at www.vintagewatchservices.eu

[@troynasello2085]

Awesome video. Another one for the books. I was wondering, why is the balance put in at about 90 degrees and turned onto the plate to be screwed down? I hope I explained that right. Thank you.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Troy, thanks for watching and for the question! The balance has a ruby pin on the underside that moves into the pallet fork every time the balance rotates, that is what causes the pallet fork to flip from side to side. When putting in the balance we need to make sure that this pin is away from the fork so that when the balance starts oscillating it will not hit the outside of the fork. To do so, we rotate the balance a bit before fitting it. That way the pin should hit the inside of the fork and start the movement running. Hope that makes sense! 😁

[@troynasello2085]

@@VintageWatchServices it does make sense, perfect sense. Thank you for the awesome explanation. That's actually exactly what I imagined in my mind's eye. I was more or less looking for some confirmation. Sometimes I think it's unnecessary when I do it, but nonetheless I do it anyway. Thanks again. Please, please, PLEASE keep up the awesome videos! Don't change a thing. I love the history lessons, the technical side to it & the humor. It's just fantastic. Keep them coming! Thank you.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks Troy, happy you like them and will do! 💪

[@The_Great_Hejaz]

Question : why pinions in particular are always made out of brass not steel ?

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks for watching! It's actually the other way around. Pinions are basically wheels with very few teeth, and to make them strong enough they're generally made of steel.

[@antoninoaccordino7659]

l think you have done a nice job. where are you stayng.lhave my omega watch need attention, could you do me a quotation how much would cost me to fix up.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Antonino, thanks for watching and for your kind words! I don't really do much servicing of customer watches, I mostly buy watches and fix them up before selling them. Where are you located? Maybe I can point you to someone.

[@shadowbanned69]

Now there’s only one religion that I know that tells you to groom your body hair. And not your facial hair. Was the comment a pun or was that a true comment? I’m always interested in religious customs and practices. I’m only asking cause mine won’t let me cut my “beard”. Wonderful job on the watch also. I think you have a really good channel here. Thanks

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks so much for your comment! The grooming was entirely a pun, I'm afraid :)

[@wspaulding89]

I don't know Stian. I have often found myself with a watch on my arm and a phone in my pocket. And me being too lazy to take the phone out of my pocket.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Oh yes, I generalize 😁

[@codyjarrett9685]

Hi Can a new/second hand pusher button be purchased for this watch

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Cody, yes, you should be able to find it but would have to scour eBay and the wider internet...

[@rain3304]

I always wonder was this watch assemble by hand or by a machine. In its` day ?

[@VintageWatchServices]

Oh, back in the day it was all assembled by hand. Most good watches are assembled by hand today also. Back then, Omega was probably the most prestigious of the common brands, more so than Rolex for instance.

[@rain3304]

thank you for your reply and your knowledge I now know for sure we have a handmade hobby with watches 🙂

[@jimgunning5833]

I have one of these… are they worth much?

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Jim, if they're in good condition they can go for $1000+, but as with anything watches, it depends :)

[@jskratnyarlathotep8411]

there is a white spec on a dial near O letter at 11 o'clock

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks for watching! You mean the one on the crystal, I think? It's a little piece of dust.

[@jskratnyarlathotep8411]

@@VintageWatchServices ah, so it is on a crystal? Then my OCD is fine this time))) I first noticed it when you just cased the watch, I thought it is inside.

[@theo5413]

Nice work xD

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks Theo 😁

[@elgatto3133]

Oris cloned this one in their Chronoris. These seem to be pretty obtainable, especially for a mechanical omega chronograph.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Yes, the Oris Chronoris is quite similar and a very cool watch, also the re-launched one!

[@jeffcline7689]

Sometimes being intrepid is dumb. Taking out shock jewels after watching I believe your Zenith video stating not to attempt it if you do not have the skills is stupid. Managed to get a 1948 Hamilton 748 movement to around 30 seconds is stupid. I thought I was on a roll and got them out and in but wrong as the movement is totally haywire now. Also broke the balance pivot on a 1940 Hamilton 982 that I had to 10 seconds a day. Again going to make it better.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hi Jeff, I'd say that being intrepid is generally great, as you dare do things others might not. But that courage indeed needs to be tempered by caution when you're working on these tiny pieces :) The good thing is that you learn much more from mistakes than doing things right! I've destroyed quite a few watches myself from thinking I knew what I was doing when I really didn't, and those incidents are great learning experiences (that have a certain cost)...

[@valmonta3647]

Sadly the case didn't got polished, other than that i enjoyed the work, great job

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks for watching and for your comment! We try to avoid polishing cases as long as they're not too damaged. This case even seems to never have been polished, which is a great added value for the watch. Polishing a case that has never been polished and is still in fine condition would be sacrilege to vintage collectors 😁

[@valmonta3647]

@@VintageWatchServices and i thank you for your detailed and very significant reply You are awesome, thank you again

[@VintageWatchServices]

@@valmonta3647 Thanks so much for that! We'll do a few watches that require some case restoration soon, so stay tuned 😉

[@alexharris8500]

Can you name a good book dummies guide to watch making for a beginners?

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hi Alex, thanks for watching and for your question! It really depends on what you are planning to do, if you want to actually make a watch or repair existing ones. Most people today associate watchmaking with watch repair, and in that case I think this book is very good: www.amazon.com/Maintaining-Repairing-Mechanical-Watches-Practical/dp/1785001558/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=watchmaking+for+beginners&qid=1617829706&sr=8-10 I would also advise you to check out Mark Lovick's excellent watch repair course here: www.watchrepairlessons.com/ and his youtube channel here: kzbin.info There are a few other books that would be good fits if you're for instance working on older watches or pocket watches, and if you want to build your own watch there are books for that also. If you're really serious about your hobby I'd suggest the British Horological Institute's Distance Learning Course, which is a fantastic resource: bhi.co.uk/training-education/dlc/ Good luck! Stian

[@SideWalkAstronomyNetherlands]

katten gikk over bordet? ;)

[@VintageWatchServices]

🤔 Not sure about the context?

[@SideWalkAstronomyNetherlands]

@@VintageWatchServices hairs

[@Matt-uj6jm]

👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@VintageWatchServices]

💪

[@ongsteve4726]

How to adjust the timing is less than 1 minute everyday

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hello Steve, I'm not sure I understand your question?

[@steveblake8766]

#141 thumbs uP

[@VintageWatchServices]

Thanks Steve 😁

[@zubberification]

Tritium Lume.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Hi, thanks for watching and for your comment! The lume is indeed Tritium, which basically all watches from 1960 and newer have.

[@ccooper8785]

"Fun" Fact - The older you get the faster your nose and ear hair grows. Ask me how I know; go on, ask. (I will not hear you however due to my awesome ear hair....)

[@VintageWatchServices]

How do you know?

[@ccooper8785]

@@VintageWatchServices Pardon? I cannot hear you due to my awesome ear-hair...

[@SideWalkAstronomyNetherlands]

You meant astronomer, completely different from an astrologist... :) Just like you aren't a potato peeler.

[@VintageWatchServices]

Yep, I meant astronomer 😁 No insult intended!

[@lyspeth]

I think an astrologist could make more sense of that timegrapher than an astronomer. 😂 (That was my favorite joke of this episode, and it was a rich one in jokes.)

[@alexanderj808]

Could you relax on b...s... Talk. Give your tongue a break man

[@VintageWatchServices]

Grumpy much? 😂

[@sheemondallasgeorgia]

Your assertion that aging causes nose hair to turn grey is suspect. I can produce at least one specimen where head hair is white, body hair is grey, but nose hair, although longer and more prolific is still as black as ever. You must be more careful 😜 with the very important facts you state in your program. You must check the facts, consult with the PC dogs for proper pronouns, and display the proper amount of self hate. Thank you! Simon

[@VintageWatchServices]

🤣 Don't worry Simon, the self depreciation is strong in this one :)

[@aimure1048]

Can you not at least plait your nose hair?