VLOG - 2000 Mercedes E320 Estate/Wagon - No Start - Crank Sensor - Fuel Pump/Filter - No Pump Power

#impalamansgarage
In this video we troubleshoot a no start condition on a
W210 E320 Mercedes Estate (Station Wagon).
Parts:
Fuel Pump - Pierburg 0004707894
www.fcpeuro.com/products/merc...
Fuel filter - Mahle 0024773001
www.fcpeuro.com/products/merc...
Crank Shaft Position Sensor - Bosch 0031532728
www.fcpeuro.com/products/merc...

[@jamesadams2333]

An interesting design this is. That’s German engineering for ya. Instead of a simple fuse we use a module instead. Gotta love it. Well done and keep up the great work.

[@docthediesel7781]

“Right about now, I wish I knew what I was doing,” = me almost every time I’m under the hood. 😂

[@mcapps1]

I have a 98 E320 wagon and my fuel pump relay is underneath the back seat. Just a side note I got tricked by the fuel pump location as well, there's almost no information on estate wagons... They are rare as hens teeth. 😂 As to thinking that you wasted your time changing the fuel pump... Be glad you did, my original fuel pump went out when I was a hundred miles from my house, it cost me $250 to get a flatbed. The second time it went out was 2 years later and it only cost me $70. If you know of a source for an original fuel pump please post because all I can find are eBay pumps. They're not very expensive but if they only last two years I guess it's not that bad if you change them like you change your oil, 😂.

[@ImpalamansGarage]

Great input! Yeah the wagon rear ends are different. They are bigger. Heavy duty. Axles are bigger too. Got my pump from fcpeuro.com. I'm glad I changed it really.

[@Engineerd3d]

I always loved the early 2000s Mercedes wagons. Even w210. I was contemplating getting an e500 wagon from the mid 2k range. But the ml500 is enough for now.

[@user-xt8lv4br6k]

good

[@Johnathan_Waters]

Fun video! I JUST did the same fuel pump replacement job on my new project (1998 CL600), and I have to say... make sure that you replace the pump with an OEM Pierburg or Bosch or something name brand... I tried a couple aftermarket ones are they were BOTH DOA! Even the OEM pumps are now mad in CHINA! 🙄

[@ImpalamansGarage]

Oh man I've been wanting one of those cars as well. That V12 is a nasty girl. I used a Pierburg pump.

[@Johnathan_Waters]

@@ImpalamansGarage 😁🤣

[@donedilated]

not sure about the w210 as mine is cdi but my w124 next to the fp relay has a overload relay and if this goes you get not power going to the fp, if its not the fp itself or the fp relay it must be the overload relay if the car has one. hope this helps

[@ImpalamansGarage]

indeed it does !

[@wernerdanler2742]

I was gonna suggest pulling a fuel hose at the engine to see if you are even getting fuel but since now you know you're not getting juice to the pump, never mind! Lol. That electrical unit is under my back seat by the battery in my o1 e320 sedan. It's a lot bigger than that too. I think it's called a Sam or something. I'd have to look it up again. I wonder if that relay has a slight defect where it seems to work but won't quite pass 12 volts through.

[@ImpalamansGarage]

All very good questions Werner! Appreciate the help!

[@wernerdanler2742]

@@ImpalamansGarage Oh, I thought of something. You probably already did it, but is there actually juice getting to both sides of the plug where the relay plugs in? I don't even know how many volts go to the side that activates the relay. I wonder why you even need a relay. Why can't you go directly from the ignition switch in the on position to the fuel pump if it runs all the time?

[@ImpalamansGarage]

@@wernerdanler2742 You could just rig up a power wire and a toggle switch in the dash and turn it on whenever you wanted to drive the car. But now that I've been pondering on it, this car has exhibited some strange behavior in the last few weeks. One day going to the store it was stumbling badly and then miraculously it just cleared up and drove fine. Further research indicates that relay box controls/directs power to a lot of stuff and if it gets flakey the car will have all sorts or problems. I'm going to do some impedance tests and see which wires go where but I'm leaning towards getting a new one since this is a daily driver.

[@Johnathan_Waters]

As for the fuel pump relay, let me know if you need verification on the location. But also, the fact that the relay 'clicks' really doesn't mean a whole lot. You need to OPEN up the relay and physically inspect the contacts very carefully for any signs of burns/carbon, etc. This obviously will impede amp flow through them...

[@ImpalamansGarage]

I was getting 77 ohms (kind of weird) between contacts 85 and 86 (the ones you give power to). Was wondering if that was normal? Thoughts? The other two were open obviously unless you apply power to 85/86. Was I gave it 12 volts the other two contacts went to zero ohms to make the connection. I didn't mention that detail in the video.

[@Johnathan_Waters]

@@ImpalamansGarage That sounds correct on the supply pins. Your test for continuity however isn't complete. The relay may work OK at a very low load level (like the one supplied by your meter) but then it might actually fail to pass sufficient current when amperage is actually flowing through the contacts (ie. the load of a fuel pump running). If in doubt, just replace it. Or if there is another identical relay somewhere else on the car, swap it in for testing.

[@juanvillarreal706]

I have the same exact wagon E320 year 2000 that won't start it does a whirring sound I change the spark plugs not yet mess with the camshaft sensor I'm thinking about replacing the fuel pump. Already open up the valve covers n to be. Honest im winging it. What would be your suggestions...theres no clicking but it does a whirring sound. Chain in engine turns then stalls when turning ignition only

[@ImpalamansGarage]

Disconnect the air breather hose from the filter housing and spray a little ether in there. Try to crank the car. If it fires and then dies, it maynin fact be.the fuel pump. You can also connect a fuel pressure gauge and check for proper pressure during cranking. If it's inadaquate the system will not fire.

[@TheCanadianBubba]

Is there an inertia switch in those ?

[@ImpalamansGarage]

no idea

[@TheCanadianBubba]

@@ImpalamansGarage- It might be worth looking into, in case it is tripped.

[@ImpalamansGarage]

@@TheCanadianBubba Thanks. I will research it!

[@kcfrumlk]

what did you figure out i'm in the same situation

[@ImpalamansGarage]

The problem was the pump. I installed the new fuel pump with the stupid clear plastic cover over the pump outlet intact. Take that off before installing the pump. Why the pump manufacturer decided to put a CLEAR cover over the end of the pump is beyond me but you cannot see the thing if you unbox the pump while under the car! I took it to a Euro shop and that is what they found. So stupid me.... I diagnosed it correctly but execution was horrible.

[@kcfrumlk]

thanks for the reply so that caused the pump to not get power?@@ImpalamansGarage

[@kcfrumlk]

so either something you did fixed the power problem and the cap was still an issue or the blockage some how triggered a safty switch to not send power to the pump@@ImpalamansGarage

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

I would trade that w210 wagen, for a w123 Diesel wagen. That w210 has way to many stupid electric junk.

[@ImpalamansGarage]

I have considered it! This thing is fast though and fun to drive.

[@Johnathan_Waters]

Just watched the rest of the video... You really need to scan the car with DAS or equivalent. Otherwise you're going to be doing a LOT of running around with the multimeter and stumbling in the dark!

[@ImpalamansGarage]

Yeah I need a proper computer scan tool to be sure. No argument there.