CLASSIC VW- 1972 SUPER BEETLE UPDATE, PART 26 ( DOORS, DOORS )

[@Volkswagenplanet]

Are the doors different in beetles and super beetles?

[@DuckmanCycles]

The doors are slightly different for certain years, but all Beetle and Super doors from 68 and up will interchange and fit just fine!

[@Volkswagenplanet]

@@DuckmanCycles so the felt guide is different in super beetle? Are those parts the same? Thanks for info.

[@DuckmanCycles]

@@Volkswagenplanet Well I meant the door as a whole... some of the individual parts may differ. But yes the long window felt channel is the same for ALL years of Beetles, except convertible! But the felt guide inside the door changed in 75 and up! Hope that helps!

[@OkFixer]

There is no difference between doors in a super beetle and a standard Beetle. It only has to do with the years.

[@Volkswagenplanet]

@@OkFixer what about the felt guide that mounts different. It looks like it bends out and mounts towards the bottom of the door. Right next to the latch?

[@oscarblom4885]

I hope you get the information you need. Thank you for sharing.

[@Volkswagenplanet]

You may not have a vw at the moment. I still apperciate the your follwing with comments.

[@oscarblom4885]

Comments from others can be very helpful. Thank you again 👍👍👍

[@kdmamm-4190]

Good video. The green doors on the bug are 68-73. They look to be in great shape. Any of the doors will fit. The difference would be the door handle and window regulator. I think aftermarket regulators for you would be 1968 1/2 - 1974. To restore the doors can get a touch pricey. Felt channel not too expensive, inner scrapers not too expensive. Regulator if you need one try to get Jopex name brand. Outer scrapers are a big hit. If you can try to reuse them. I think when I restored my doors recently I used WWest.

[@Volkswagenplanet]

The regulator I took out if the 74 std was OEM. It still.had the original soft cushion around a few sports. I cleamed it up and dried it out. It's ready to be greased up and reinstalled. Wolfsburg West is well worth the extra money. I have used them for several items. Thanks for responding. Your comment will help out others. I'm going to look into the regulators on the green door ( 72 super). I'm thinking they need to come out anyways. Be a good time to go through and make it what it deserves, POR 15 and maybe some dynamat. Stay tuned more beetle videos to comem

[@radicallyair-cooled]

The og super beetle door they use different mounting for arm rest

[@Volkswagenplanet]

What about the channel that runs behind the lock mechanism? Looks different from green car to the others. Thanks for the info.

[@DuckmanCycles]

But one piece windows aren't stock! LOL

[@Volkswagenplanet]

So, very true. I may use these doors in another project

[@DuckmanCycles]

@@Volkswagenplanet Heh... just crushin' your stones!

[@Volkswagenplanet]

@@DuckmanCycles its all good. Didn't take it personally. The only thing that has changed is less time than before. Things are getting back to old ways

[@vwbusguy]

Making progress

[@Volkswagenplanet]

Same as yourself, small steps equals leaps and bounds in the end. I catch myself looking at rusty area saying, if I cut this piece like this........ Your videos have taken some of the stress off my mind. We shall see soon, when I start the metal work. Thanks again for all.ypu do.

[@vwbusguy]

@@Volkswagenplanet I recommend not working on the actual vehicle first. By the sounds of it you will have a door spare. Try hammer forming little pieces of it out of steel and welding in.for practice

[@Volkswagenplanet]

@@vwbusguy yes sir, spare parts first to work on while you learn.

[@OkFixer]

I think the only difference in those doors is how the armrest mounts. The newer ones have two screws as you see. The older ones. The armrest is screwed to the door panel, with a strap of metal between the screws. When you put the door panel on, the strap of metal slides onto that hook. Thats how the armrest goes on. Yes the Bolt goes through that tab in the back of the door, into your rear channel and holds secure. One piece windows are a giant pain in the ass. They look cool, but you have to cut the metal that holds the top door skins together. So there’s one long passage there, from the front to the rear. Also, when you have one piece windows, and you have the window rolled down, you can’t open your door unless you take the door checks out. Because the door check will run into the glass, and break it. Plus you have to fabricate, well I did anyways. I didn’t buy a kit I cut my own glasses and had them tempered. Longer window channels, a longer support bracket on the regulator, and longer belt moldings. And you’re just gargling trouble there. Plus ruining your door. Yes, I think all those parts will fit in those doors. And interchange . I don’t recommend taking the vent windows apart and putting new window rubber in them. You really have to be doing this for quite a while in order to get it reasonably right. I use the term reasonably… Even I can’t make them perfect, and I’ve been doing this professionally for 30 years. I think the only people that could make them perfect where the assembly workers at Wolfsburg ha ha Ha. I mean, if you have to you have to. But if you have a vent assembly that’s opening and closing and still has rubber on it, that’s reasonable. And doesn’t have big gaps or holes in it. Clean it up and spray a little silicone on it and use it again. Or have someone rebuild them for you, then again they’re still not going to be right. It’s a crapshoot here again. Belt moldings are important, the inner and outer that scrape against the door glass. Those are reasonably easy to replace. Pricey though, and you have to “adjust“ them. I’ve never seen ones that fit exact. I don’t know about those hinges, I think the inner hinge is welded on the door?? I don’t know mine were. So I didn’t mess with them. They opened and closed and didn’t have much slack in them so all I did was oil them. I don’t know what your intentions are as far as painting this? Are you going to paint the inside and out? Are you not going to paint it at all? Are you just going to drive it as a patina Mobile? Because if you’re going to paint this and try to make it reasonable. Everything has to come off the door. Let’s say you’re going to paint this, what I would do yes I would make the door latch mechanism work , The door open and shut, the lock work, the window roll up and down that sort of thing. Then I would take off the door handle outside. The windows out of it, and depending on how detailed you want, the screws out of the door latch and the door check. If you’re going to paint the inside. Because all that is going to leave paint lines. And paint lines peel. Then I would assemble the door on the car after it was painted. Or after the whole car was painted. Because you paint the whole car you know? And then assemble it. OK, now let’s say that you’re just going to make this a driver. I don’t know the condition of the rubbers around the glass? But they look like they’re there. Does the vent glass open and close? I would just grease everything up, or oil everything. And get everything working smoothly. Then you’re done. Maybe pour a little, or brush a little 90 weight into the rust at the bottom of the door? I wouldn’t put a pad on that door inside, because it will just come off, and get jammed up in your regulator. Like I said I don’t know your intentions. My car was in a state of disassembly when I got it too far to put together and make it a driver like that. So I went backwards and did a lot of work on it. And then assembled it forward. Your car is almost drivable. If I were you and I’m not… But if I were you and I had this car. I would just try to make everything work, and drive it for a little while. Sort out all the problems, brakes, transmission, engine, electrical that sort of thing. You can always paint it later. Also there is a great deal of satisfaction, in driving the car and using it. Sooner than… Like two years from now. You might grow dissatisfied with it and stop your work. If you put it together now and drive it, you will have that satisfaction and Experience under your belt. And have a big smile on your face ha ha Ha 😀😀😀 Again these are just my opinions, and everyone has an opinion you know. Great video keep on bugging!

[@Volkswagenplanet]

Your correct on all points. I bought it as a parts car. I am like your saying piecing it back togther. It starts, haven't touched the brakes yet. I have a few electrical issues( we all do). Doors have missing latches and hardware. I had a few extra doors. The only thing I don't understand so far is the track that goes behind the latch. The mounting spot is different on the 72 super vs. The 74 std. All the other parts fit perfect. Are the channels the same? Do you work in a VW shop. Thanks again for the detailed responses. It truely has helped alot

[@Volkswagenplanet]

The one piece windows look cool. Way to much work. The major turn off is its not a bolt on. I'm keeping this stock as possible or changing a few things that bolt on or off. I've also have heard the glass is distorted in the kits as well. More pain than worth.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Good morning John, the only difference I have found are pretty much the arm rests, Counting points for them. All the doors are pretty much the same. But I believe the window regulators are different.

[@Volkswagenplanet]

Im about to find out. Jbugs list them as the same. Somthing is different on the lower door. I will post what I find. Thanks for the information

[@SladesVWBeetle]

Volkswagenplanet Yeah let me know what you find out John, I’m going to have to redo my driver side door with a new seal, new window scrapers, pretty much everything. But on my 73 super beetle, I have a 1968 standard door. It was in good shape so I used it.

[@Volkswagenplanet]

@@SladesVWBeetle I'm still.trying to.figure all that stuff out. I have a few complete cars to get a solid answer. Stay tuned. Here is my fleet at the house of BEETLES: 68 autostick 68 convertible 70 convertible 72 super beetle 74 std. Parts car and a few sets of doors for parts. Hope to get a solid answer for us all.