Volvo S60 XC70 Transmission Solenoid removal (RAW video) 2001-2009

[@Awesomeman1987]

was gonna just sell this volvo I picked up with transmission issues since someone said I had to drop the subframe!!! I watched this video and ordered parts after. I just removed the nut on the front engine mount, took the bolt out of the engine brace on top and that stabilizer link looking thing at the bottom and jacked up the engine. got all my bolts out without breaking or rounding one, and it was a one day job. thanks very much sir.

[@alexanderthegreat7258]

Thank you for this comment. I've been considering getting rid of my Volvo but with someone else having the same experience I should try this myself

[@tcrasr]

@@alexanderthegreat7258 Does it work? :)

[@mishaq8303]

so its like just to remove angine mounts (how many are there?) and jack up the engine? how much do I need to lift it to have access?

[@Peppermint1]

One interesting and little known fact, is that the MAF sensor also plays a role in the way the automatic transimssions are shifting. A fouled sensor (not necessarily faulty, but with the hot wires covered with dirt), may also cause the transmission to shift weirdly. It's a less known fact, but worth google up : "does MAF affect automatic transmission".

[@brorjon5583]

Exactly and even if the abs system has a problem . It will shift wierd

[@ronaldsmith5663]

you are the most honest guy about faults on Volvos i do all the work on my 5 cars by my shelf thank you very much for more info that you just gave me on my s60 to look for iam here in canada to will spend some time going through the rest you have uploaded take care

[@Peppermint1]

Appreciate the feedback

[@ronaldsmith5663]

@@Peppermint1 by the way if you need a helping hand sometime dont be shy lam here in laval

[@looplu]

Was able to remove the transmission cover without lowering subframe. Loosen engine mounts: upper.front and lower torque. Raise engine slowly. At some point transmission cover will be just above subframe and can be removed. Remove left fog light assembly. This give better access and view of the transmission cover. Good luck. 2002 S60.AWD.

[@mishaq8303]

so you just un tie the mounts and lifted the engine like with a for example wood block and lifter from underneath?

[@looplu]

@@mishaq8303 yes...lift it slowly...with a jack..take your time.

[@mishaq8303]

@@looplu I've done half of the work, engine mounts are unbolt, how high should I go with lifting? The lower bolts shold I unbolt fron underneath? How did you do cleaning around the pan because I've got little mess round there, tried to clean it but theres so little space

[@looplu]

@@mishaq8303 lift slowly until the transmission cover is just above the subframe and can be removed. Also remove left fog light if present. Use a degreaser spray from your local hardware store.

[@mishaq8303]

@@looplu thx for instructions, transmission works like new and the costs are zero $$$

[@Peppermint1]

The bead of RTV sealant on the matching surfaces must not be too thick: read well the instructions on the tube, usually the bead must cure for a while before placing back the cover. The reason for this is, when the cover is placed back, the sealant must not 'drip' inside the valve body and detach and harden while floating inside the transmission: this is a very bad scenario.

[@gcrauwels941]

Another thing that helps with those sticky pan bolts besides cleaning out the torx slots is to smack them a few times with a hammer/extension.

[@0x00zero]

Did you not get the broken/cut fastener out? With the cover off it should have come out......heat it with tiny torch or careful use of big torch? hammer the tip some and get the mini vise grips on it?

[@trevonball3278]

I removed my wheel and was able to reach all the bolts some not with a ratchet wrench but just using a re wrench holding the torx by its neck

[@stevenjacobs7243]

I am under my 2001 V70 XC right now and I can not see how you were able to remove the Valve Body cover. There no clearance to the sub frame. Do you drop the sub frame or lift the engine to gain clearance? Your vidoe jumps at 18:45 from dealing with the cover to looking at the solenoids and then at 21:10 the cover is back on HOW? Everything else has been extremly helpful just can seem to get the cover off

[@Peppermint1]

The subframe must be lowered like this www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/2002-V70-XC-Valve-Body-Replacement-Notes.pdf Sorry I didn't mention that in the video. I just put an annotation to mention it. With the frame lowered like in the pdf above, the pan came out without hassle from above with one of the cooling lines still attached

[@asforme762]

Hey guys... I replaced the valve body on a 07' XC90. Now the vehicle has no reverse. Couple of threads I read online say a seal may have been damages upon installation but doesn't stay which seal. Was wondering if you might be able to point me in the right direction. Thanks.

[@MrKushinator420]

You reccomend doing both this and servo, or should try servo then flush then this? I have one with 90,000 miles I just got and it has the same flare as my wagon with 180,000.

[@Peppermint1]

I'm assuming you have been using the correct 3309 fluid type? Either Mobil 3309 (not the same as the Mobil 1), or Toyota Type IV from the Toyota dealer. When purchasing a used valve body, always check first if it has new main solenoids - Rostra replacement ones usually have the connector or all three solenoids sitting at the top, this is a good way to know if the solenoids have been replaced. It is not worth installing a used valve body with old solenoids on it. As for your car, at 180000 miles there is more wear inside the transmission itself. This may explain the flare because normally even a worn valve body won't cause flare, but rather rough shifting. As for the B4 servo, it has two parts: the cover and the piston inside. On early years the cover was faulty, but on all years the piston itself causes wear and rough surface inside the transmission bore and may not move freely - not much we can do about this. But for flare, I'm rather thinking internal transmission issue (clogged internal filter - not replaceable, low oil pressure, or other issues).

[@MrKushinator420]

@@Peppermint1 I don't know. I just got a 2001 t5 with 98k miles. On the other one with 180k miles (a 2.4t) I replaced 30,000 miles ago because I blew it drifting. That tranny was fine, the one I put in has flares like the 2001 t5. I haven't changed any fluid since then, I just recently found out about this common issue. I have 14 qts of aisin t04 , same as toyota stuff.

[@MrKushinator420]

If solenoids need replacement, you reccomend entire new valve body or just solenoids?

[@Peppermint1]

@@MrKushinator420 I would go with a partial fluid change in the first place. Beating these transmissions wears the fluid as it gets too hot - even Volvo recommends fluid replacement for towing. Not a full flush, just one sump drain (bottom 24mm bolt) will remove 3.5L , then refill through the dipstick hole 3.5L of fresh fluid. Total fluid is 7L so that will give you half fresh fluid. See from there. If the flare gets better, wait a few months and do another drain an refill. Important not to flush it all at once. As for the valve body, it's difficult to answer... a fully refurbished one is expensive and may or may not help if the transmission has other internal problems. If it was my car, I don't think I'll go with a valve body or solenoids for a flare (slipping) problem. To me, flare or slipping is internal transmission problem - but I may be wrong, I'm not an expert ;)

[@MrKushinator420]

@@Peppermint1 Cool, thanks. I got a servo a while ago, I'll do the partial drain and attempt to put in the b4 cover.

[@JozefMarhut]

Nice, thanks 👍🏻

[@davemcgale6550]

Do these solenoids have to do with a delay and bang from park to drive?trans shifts fine.just the delay and bang into drive hot or cold.

[@Peppermint1]

I had that delay and bang after I tried to 'clean' my old solenoids with a drill. See if it helps if you rev a little (around 1500rpm) before shifting. It may also have to do with the adaptations. May try finding someone with Vida, and relearn the adaptations but usually this must be done only with new solenoids, because the old ones don't work correctly and it may mess the transmission kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6u7cpeuj9Wdjbc

[@davemcgale6550]

@@Peppermint1 hey thanks.no i dont want to mess the transmission up for sure.its 2001 v79 xc 183000 on the clock now sure if i should mess with it or not.i was thinking maybe replace the solenoids or just leave it alone?

[@colbydavis5338]

Thanks man. Saw you were going to make a new video like this so I'm looking forward to that

[@Peppermint1]

Video uploaded with more details kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIOtqoyIht2VkKM

[@Peppermint1]

The subframe must be lowered like this www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/2002-V70-XC-Valve-Body-Replacement-Notes.pdf When I lowered the subframe, the engine shifted sideways and damaged the pass side lower engine mount and also crushed the power steering line that's passing there: double check these when lowering the subframe, maybe use a piece of wood to prevent the pa line from getting crushed/leaking One used commented that he actually didn't lower the subframe, but rather did keep the subframe in place with some stands and instead he jacked up the engine, after disconnecting the engine mounts.

[@otis277]

Hello, can 2002 volvo s40 transmission installed into a 2002 volvo s60 ?

[@johnmcguinness7116]

Any help from anyone would be appreciated my daugter has 2006 xc90 i done drain and fill on auto gearbox using 5 litres of3309 oil what came out was pute black it has 150000 mes on clock now when in automatic it changes first to second ok but slips like made trying to go into 3rd gear and others any ideas anyone theres no fault codes showing could the filter be blocked

[@norincobro658]

I am about to do this job. Your video DOES NOT SHOW how to REMOVE the cover or FIT it back.???????????

[@Peppermint1]

I put a comment below, the subframe must be lowered at little to be able to remove the cover from there, check out the comments below.

[@simonberg8378]

fantastic video man. what sort of difference will I encounter on a 1999 v70 R?

[@bren.nan_]

i don't think much is different since it's the same general design

[@loverofsith]

HI, after such a thorough video, I am doing this. Can I ask what is the type of bolts to replace the torx bolts with please. I hate torx bolts, especially the ones on the ball joints!!!!

[@Peppermint1]

Agreed, the hex bolts are the ones Volvo sells for the engine skid plate (the large plastic cover that goes under the engine although it's missing on many cars). So ask them for the engine skid plate bolts, it's about $1 each, 9 of them needed for the transmission if I remember well. See this other video kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIOtqoyIht2VkKM

[@loverofsith]

I did the procedure a few weeks back now. I bought an engine support bar from eBay. I dropped the engine replaced some of the stupid torx bolts and it totally fixed my problem. Thank you for the upload, no surprises and gave me the confidence to give it a shot!!!

[@Peppermint1]

@@loverofsith Thanks for your feedback!

[@paul2001anderson]

I Have .. Solenoid SLC1 fault P273300 fault would that be the same soleoids i need to change ? 2007 s80 2.4 diesel

[@Peppermint1]

I'm not sure about the transmission in the second generation S80. Maybe ask on forums or contact a transmission specialist. There is this channel in the US very knowledgeable kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6KvfWCYnLmqfJY

[@tundezzzstargatekommunicat6112]

GREETINGS ROYALE, IS THERE A DIFFERENCE WITH TRANSMISSION SOLENOID & SOLENOID VALVE, IF SI WHATS THE DIFFERENCE??? BIG UP...GREAT JOB

[@Peppermint1]

It's basically the same thing, they look and work pretty much the same way.

[@anfahrt]

Sometimes when I made a long highway drive the automatic transmission in my S60 2.4 non-turbo shifts quite harsh from 3 to 4 gear. But when I drive further this harsh shifting disappears and the transmissions shifts normal again. Can this harsh shifting from 3 to 4 be a result of a bad MAF? I looked at my MAF and it is still the original one after more than 19 years and almost 360.000km driving.

[@Peppermint1]

I do have a video where I tested a non turbo MAF voltage kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJOngZKnmdCifKs and another one where I show how to spray it with the correct cleaner. Can't tell if it would cause 3 to 4 shifting issues, I would rather think a MAF will either work or not. Usually a long drive means the transmission fluid is heating up and an old fluid will loose its properties as it warms up and may cause shifting issues after 30 min drives or so. The problem is whether it is safe to replace the fluid or not. I do explain here the risks of replacing an old fluid kzbin.info/www/bejne/d5Waeaudg7VnqZY

[@anfahrt]

@@Peppermint1 thanks for your answer! I think that during highway driving the transmission fluid will cool down a bit. I think that during city driving and a lot of shifting up and down the fluid will heat up. Last year I did have my transmission flushed by a specialized company. Now the fluid in the transmission is fresh but I can't say that shifting has improved after the flush. Also, it seems that I have lost a little bit of transmission fluid since I had it flushed. In the beginning the level was well over the hot mark. Now it reaches barely the hot mark. Can it be due to a leak at the B4 servo cover? I heard that these covers sometimes can cause issues and begin to start leaking....... I don't now if the B4 cover ever has been replaced on my S60. Maybe an idea to replace it as these covers are not expensive at all.

[@Peppermint1]

@@anfahrt It will depend how much it's leaking, the covers are very tricky to replace (see my vids), may just get a used one for the seals. I think there's seals on the B4 piston as well. I also had Valvoline fluid that was acting up a lot in volume, very low in cold weather, too high in warm weather. Then used Toyota Type IV and Mobile 3309 and worked well.

[@anfahrt]

@@Peppermint1 thanks for the explanation. I think I will ask my Volvo dealer to replace the B4 cover and all the seals. First I will look if I can see any leaks there. When you have to add a little fluid because the fluid level is to low, is it all right to fill it up via the transmission dipstick?

[@robbiewilson157]

Not sure if you have any advice for me but I get only one error code about the lockup solenoid any tips or things to check for me? Thanks!

[@Peppermint1]

Hard to say, but I remember similar issue on forums. If the solenoids already replaced, I would suspect a loose connector at the solenoid (just a supposition)

[@barscelik709]

Hi. I have a 2001 volvo s60 vehicle. When the vehicle warms up, it starts hitting in gear shifts. what do you suggest? change the horoscope or another solution

[@Peppermint1]

The first thing is to drain half the transmission fluid (only half) and replace with a 3309 fluid type kzbin.info/www/bejne/d5Waeaudg7VnqZY Then drive the car for 2-3 weeks and see if it's better

[@barscelik709]

@@Peppermint1 I try. inform you

[@jonnnyonion]

@@barscelik709 how did it work out??

[@barscelik709]

@@jonnnyonion I did not have time. I ordered a bushing. I will change both the oil and the bushing.

[@brittanyfranklin4091]

I hooked up a code reader to my 2001 Volvo v70xc and it said cvvt solenoid.. what is that and how hard would it be to replace it.. thanks..

[@Peppermint1]

The CVVT valve/solenoid sits on top of the engine, turbos have 2 of them, search KZbin for vvt cleaning.These are inexpensive refurbished on Ebay, make sure the connector side is similar to yours. However, if your car has issues with the transmission shifting, it's not caused by the CVVT valve. The 2001-2002 models had very fragile transmissions. Some were lucky replacing only the B4 servo cover, others needed a complete body valve refurbishment. However, if the shifting issue has been going on for years, it might be too late for such repairs. Unfortunately, perhaps all used transmission available for 2001-2002 are in similar poor condition. Try asking on forums such as matthewsvolvosite or volvoforums These forums are truly a money saver when driving a Volvo.

[@xzw6zc6]

Good one. Thanks!

[@aboodalasmar8647]

I have a volo c30 2.0L 2010 my car shows the message ( transmission performance low ) and the car will stop moving and wont shift gears so when i turn off the car and run it Again message will be gone and car back to normal , This happens to me one or two times a day . Garage people telling me my transmission is bad needs to be changed please help if any volvo owner encountered this before you would save my life and money

[@theclipze]

Is it required to drain the fluid to change the solenoids?

[@Peppermint1]

I do believe so. The valve body sits in transmission fluid, perhaps only 2-3 qts but there is no other way to remove the fluid unless you are draining it at the moment of splitting the cover open.

[@robbailey4667]

hi I have 2006 xc70 . 2.5 turbo auto . its had gearbox software update . transmission oil change n flush . an its still clunks hard when the auto changes down . clunks around 2nd about 30 klms an hour . an changes hard coming back threw to 2nd at 30 klms an hr

[@hugo3conde]

I have the same issue on my 07 XC70. someone mentioned these solenoids in the transmission, but I started with the ETM, the MAF and the ETM Harness to the ECU. I am yet to install the harness from the ETB to the ECU, but i am thinking the issue will be these solenoids, which i do not have the time, patience or expertise to try to replace or diagnose.

[@Peppermint1]

Video updated with more details kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIOtqoyIht2VkKM Recommended fluid www.fcpeuro.com/products/aisin-oem-auto-trans-fluid-aisin-atf-0t4#fitment

[@looplu]

What ATF fluid do you use on your Volvo ?

[@Peppermint1]

It has to have the JWS 3309 norm written on the bottle. There are many JWS 3309 oils, but each will perform differently. Idemitsu is good (hard to find), Aisin, Toyota Type IV (good choice, from any Toyota dealer), Mobil 3309 (not the same as Mobil ATF). If you are in Europe, german Mannol 3309 (Ebay Germany). I don't recommend Valvoline Maxlife

[@cdefeciani]

Use PB Blaster instead of Liquid Wrench

[@Peppermint1]

Both are same, I think LW smells a little less

[@travonmiller5279]

Can't get a single one of those torx bits to move. They strip very easily the chisel is just tearing the thing apart ):

[@Peppermint1]

That was the hardest part for me as well, as I live inside the salt belt. Make sure you use ratchet torx sockets, quality ones. Press the ratchet strongly and perfectly perpendicular against the bolt and try turning (I think it takes torx T40 if I remember well - make sure you use the correct torx size, not smaller) If managed to get them out, use the replacement bolts with hex head.

[@gerardjones7881]

T Miller heat is your friend. If all else fails, use a dremel with carbide disk and cut a regular screwdriver slot, then break the screws loose with an impact screwdriver, if access is impossible to hit driver with a hammer use an air impact hammer. Install new bolts.

[@tykendrick800]

Don't show how to remove solenoids

[@Peppermint1]

This video has more details, for the solenoids each is secured with a small bolt, just remember how the metal brackets stay in place (orientation) kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIOtqoyIht2VkKM

[@luisrosado8026]

Just talk, didn't really explain in detail.

[@Peppermint1]

True, really not a great video. I'm updating soon a better one where I show all the subframe lowering and all the problems with this job. It is worth it but it is a risky job. Once the new video finished, I will delete this old one. But until then, if you have questions don't hesitate, don't forget to read the comment here below.

[@robbailey4667]

hi I have 2006 xc70 . 2.5 turbo auto . its had gearbox software update . transmission oil change n flush . an its still clunks hard when the auto changes down . clunks around 2nd about 30 klms an hour . an changes hard coming back threw to 2nd at 30 klms an hr

[@mcdeadsquirrel]

Rob, this is Larry. Do you still have your 2006 xc-70? I am having weird error messages all at the same time...I mean, sometimes it's one message, then a different one...check engine light is always on. I think my mechanic was actually fooled by the check transmission n message and took it seriously. worked on the Tran, fluids, etc and then a week later the same code popped up plus even other wired messages, ABS, Alarm, ....I am baffled and the car is a good one. 91k miles but it's a solid car...Thanks, Rob