Volvo XC90 Engine Mount Replacement DIY (2007-2014 Volvo XC90 P2 3.2L, T6 R-Design)

[@bobbarrett1164]

Hats off sir, that was the best video with immense detail. most videos tell ya but neglect to show you. outstanding job!!!!!

[@Huttify]

Thanks for all the extra information here. It really makes the video much better than many others.

[@fcpeuro]

You're very welcome!

[@patrickbell3446]

Thanks for the video, really made doing it myself a breeze. It’s something I would not have tackled without seeing it first. Replaced my subframe bushings earlier this year and those are more difficult. I did it with the engine intact and the subframe still on the car, it is more self-explanatory. The motor mounts would have been way too hard for me to conceive, in particular replacing the rear.

[@GwenGreenberg]

Great video. Thank you. Does not look like it would be any fun without a lift. I find i am enjoying watching your videos even if I have a different model Volvo. Just seeing your little pearls about leaving a bolt in here or there is very instructive and can be applied to many different jobs.

[@markthomas919]

Great video with very clear directions

[@jonmelvin6852]

Great Video Mike, I have the same 2007 and will be giving this a try. I would love to see some Jaguar X-Type stuff as well. Thanks again.

[@legambaz]

My experience with my Volvos, Hutchinson mounts are on top of my list. Never buy from companies that do mot manufacture their own mounts.

[@KaloyanDobrev]

These videos are great. Love the detail and the clean shop.

[@patrickbell3446]

This video is sick. Doesn’t seem that bad either, just some time and wrenching.

[@antoniosouto4081]

Estaría bien que actives subtítulos en Español Saludos desde Galicia España 🇪🇸

[@darbysnider]

Do you have to grease the transmission mounts on the P3 2017 xc90?

[@patrickbell3446]

I had a really hard time getting that third upper bolt for the rear motor mount. I ended up stripping the hex head before realizing you could reach it with a wrench from the top side. So I recommend anybody to try a break it free from the top first. All the bolts that I could break free broke free relatively easily, So I’m assuming this one would too, however, the angle is hard to get right with so many extensions and manual ratchet. You’re gunna be working blind and my getting your hands up in there. Except, you can see it straight down from the top. I was still able to replace the mount by loosening the bolt that goes through the subframe into the motor mount itself . And then resuming the course of action that the guy does in the video. Which includes removing the three nuts on the lower bracket. The process I did still required jacking the engine up from the bottom, but it did not require removing the three both of the upper bracket. Although that’s what I tried first and I stripped the third bolt of the upper bracket so I had to figure out another way. Once I got done looking at it I realize that I wasn’t completely screwed. Finished it this morning and it didn’t take too long once I learned I could do it another way.

[@patrickbell3446]

Referring to the rear engine mount at 12:59. Also I did this with a set of ramps and a floor jack.

[@invertedpolarity6890]

E70 X5 35i xDrive engine mounts please.

[@PaneInTheGlass]

do you guys have any tips for getting the crankshaft nut off? I got a leaky crank seal and I couldn't get the nut loosened for the life of me. It is an 06 xc70

[@DeleDeSouza-nm8dk]

I really like this video it is really straightforward.

[@Darmar-mf7mq]

Brother help 4.4 v8 36,000 miles when shifting from R to D and D to R it clicks. What can it be?

[@northlanedarko771]

This looks really difficult to do at home with a jack . Also looks like power tools are a must. I didnt even know ypu needed to torque the bolts either. What does everyone rate this in terms of difficulty for normal no mechanic experience people .

[@patrickbell3446]

I just did this at home with a ramp at jacks. I did not have the electric ratchet. For the second mount that is in the back, I left three upper bolts in place (of the mount that connects to the transmission). I had a heck of a time reaching the third bolt of that mount. So I stripped the head. Only then, I realized you could reach it from the top. So try that to break it free if you want to have everything loose like this guy did. Since I stripped my bolt before then, I could not loosen bough mounts like him. Even from the top I tried but by then it was game over for me. I was able to leave the heat shield intact with the upper mount. From the top, I loosened the motor mount bolt that connects it to the subframe, and removed the three nuts on the bottom I used a jack and a 4x4 to support and jack it up. I also removed the bolt from the front engine mount that bolts it to the subframe in order to create more space. Then I jacked up the engine and made some space to reach the nut of the rear mount to detach it from the lower mount. However,, there is enough room to finesse it back in already connected , which I did when reassembling. I was replacing the motor mount that’s on the top of the engine near the coolant reservoir as well, since I was doing that, I removed it to create some more space or allow more play for the rear lower mount. Be patient you’ll need it.