Voron 2.4 Step By Step Part 5 Afterburner/XY Belts

[@scottcorn]

Just a heads up, in video 6 I reversed the direction the hotend is mounted. The back of the hotend is now facing forward. This increases the distance of the hotend from the probe. The probe has a tendency to melt and this should help prevent this.

[@GrumpyDave1]

I am a bit confused with the comment. In both videos the back of the hot-end is facing forward! Top head screws are m3x12 if anyone was wondering as it is not mentioned in the video or the manual. As always great video.

[@mysfiring]

Hands-down, the best, most concise, and just damn amazing build-along-sing-along-video-guide there is on KZbin for the V2.4. Your humour is subtle and welcomed, and you've obviously spent an immense amount of time reading the manual/chiming in with your own experience, and discovering any pitfalls and caveats that are likely to trip those people new to the Voron experience. Rest assured, once I get around to starting my build in February 2022, your guide is the one I'll be using. Thank you! :D

[@scottcorn]

Thank you.

[@phazedude]

in order to be sure that there is no binding on the X and Y rails i personally installed the gantry in the frame before adding the belts. once installed the gantry - i made sure all is square and both X and Y axes are moving freely without any binding at all and made sure the middle rear bar of the gantry has equal spaces from both sides on the mounts. once this was done - i added the belts to the gantry. i think i've seen @nero3d doing it and it made a lot of sense to me... Also rotate your hotend 180 degrees so it won't melt your probe ! I personally installed the AB-BN mod from the beginning since it has much better air cooling for the layers. Good luck with your build !

[@scottcorn]

Yes, I think I've seen Nero do that also. I went ahead and installed the belts, but I'm going to do my final belt adjustment only after it is installed. I was thinking Kapton tape on the probe, but you are correct I think I will turn it around. Thanks for you help!

[@phazedude]

@@scottcorn I must admit your videos helped me a lot !!!

[@scottcorn]

Good I'm glad they have helped people! I'm taking a bit of a break from making the videos this weeked. I work in the little studio (software engineer) you see in the video as well build stuff so I needed a small break from it. Been playing Minecraft. lol I'll pick back Monday after work.

[@kaitlyn3288]

Just would like to thank you for taking the time to these videos with clear instructions! Really appreciate it.

[@scottcorn]

You're very welcome!

[@nenaddinic2717]

Just wanted to say you're awesome. I'm waiting for some parts to arrive so I can start with my own 2.4 build. I rewatch your videos daily. Keep up the good work.

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. Glad I'm helping.

[@Killerici]

@@scottcorn You're giving me the necessary courage to actually take the leap into the 2.4

[@scottcorn]

Good, I'm glad to hear it. It's not too bad if you just take it a step at a time.

[@MarkRouleau]

Love the video. I do wish there was some voice in the video, but the information is spot on. Subscribed.

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. I've had others say they want voice also. The issue I have is my little studio sounds awful and it requires a lot of post processing to sound okish. My voice is kind of old and worn out also. lol I also have constant outside noise (Mowers, cars, yelling kids, etc) I've been slowly buying some sound stuff as I find it used. Have a good over dub microphone at this point, but no sound proofing yet.

[@troibandy2139]

Thank you for you your videos! They have been an enormous help to me in assembling my Voron. I can't wait to see you complete the wiring and then move on to the heatbed.

[@scottcorn]

Glad to hear it! Thank you

[@usmannaeem9018]

Subscribed. Having a good time building Voron 2.4 350mm along with you.

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. I'm slowly getting there.

[@jlaustill]

This video was AMAZINGLY helpful for me, thank you for taking the time!

[@scottcorn]

No problem, thank you.

[@mINGzTH]

I love your videos, very detail and relaxing. My 2.4 is on the way. I guess that I might open your video during my fabrication. :)

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. I’m glad you like them.

[@AJayTheStageArtist]

Best tutorial ever..

[@scottcorn]

Wow, thanks! It was shorter than normal, but I just wasn't going to be able to get clockwork in and still publish this week.

[@hosr888]

Very well done man! Everything can be seen so clearly! Thanks!

[@scottcorn]

Glad you liked it!

[@lukiong]

Hi Scott, thanks for your great video. I think you have the hot end in wrong direction - back to front. I thought my abs print wrapped when I couldn't screw in longer bolt towards the end. I even use soldering gun to melt the nut insert to adjust the hole but only realised that the hot end was in wrong direction.

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. Several have said I should reverse the hotend so I don't melt the probe. So I understand, what longet bolt are you talking about?

[@lukiong]

@@scottcorn I was referring to m3x40 bolt shown at 18:50. I had problem to fit tight along with klicky probe as the hot end was getting the way in reverse. Other than that excellent follow along video and saved me a lot of confusion! 😊

[@NotDoingThisToday]

Nice video! When is the next coming out?

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. It will be late next week. Unfortunately it takes me about two weeks to make one of these.

[@NotDoingThisToday]

@@scottcorn Alright, again thanks! You make it possible for everyone to build the 2.4 with no problems! Getting my parts soon and i am just watching the videos over and over again!

[@damustermann]

Your presentation is awesome! Can't wait to get my Hardware tomorrow, will definitely rewatch your videos in the next days while I start my build.

[@scottcorn]

Thank you! It is a lot of fun. Just remember it's not a race and enjoy the build.

[@trefhi]

Highly recomend to rotate the hotend 180º, the heat block will melt the probe if it's too near. ( it's a known problem, people are switching to "clicky mod") And the AB motors cables looking each other (can interfere with the panels if they are looking back)

[@scottcorn]

It does look close to probe and I know I’ve seen a lot of pictures of them melted. I was think Kapton tape but I may turn it around. I’ll note this in the next video. I was concerned about wire clearance on the motors. In my case the wires will clear the back ok. I can see motors with plugs not clearing. I fought with saying towards each other, but in the end I chose to do what was shown in the manual. I think I need to be less tied to the manual. I’m just worried if I stray too much it will confuse people. I’ll note it again in the next video. Thanks for you help.

[@lcdconsultant5252]

I found getting the ends of the belts into the Afterburner opening very difficult. It just didn't want to go around that corner even with that pointy thing. There is twisty that is used to tie the power cord together when shipped. It has a nice thin flat spot on each end and it is bendable and stays that way. I stuck that through the hole from the front and out the side and used it to pull the belt through very nicely when pushing the belt and pulling slightly on the twisty.

[@scottcorn]

Cool, I know it was a pain for me also. I think I even had to redo it once because I bumped the camera.

[@nigozeroichi2501]

Looking good 👍 definitely a huge help. You're moving forward and I'm going in reverse😶 always double check your part numbers before finalizing your order, in a hurry on my lunch break, ordered MGN12H linear rails by mistake instead of MGN9H🙄

[@scottcorn]

Ouch, those rails are expensive. I think that's the rail used on the carriage in Trident and V2.5? So maybe you can sell them. I've not fully research them yet.

[@nigozeroichi2501]

@@scottcorn I can return them thankfully, the proper ones will be here end of the week. Bummer is had a good deal on the 12's compared to the 9's worked out to nearly buy one get one.

[@quarkpix]

Superb thanks

[@scottcorn]

Most welcome 😊

[@lcdconsultant5252]

I could not find any 2.5 x 8mm screws "provided" for mounting the hot end. Waiting again for spare parts. Where did you get yours?

[@scottcorn]

They were in a bag with clips and such. I bought it from Triangle Labs, but when it arrived it was Phaetus for some reason. Wanted Phaetus anyway but they were out of stock at the time.

[@user-yk1cw8im4h]

I wish there's one like this for the v0, it gives me so much headhead even after completetion

[@scottcorn]

Depends on my future finances, but maybe in the future I can build one and document it.

[@MShazarul]

Don't need a thermal paste? Just asking, voron is my second printer after ender 3 s1 pro. I changed to triangle lab HF hotend and thermal paste was applied. Curious why manual didn't state for this

[@stefi300972]

I forgot from printer building just how much core xy belts are the biggest pain in the butt ever

[@waskito3443]

The belts have to be the most difficult part. I spent the better half of the day getting this done.

[@scottcorn]

Yes, It's important to get them right. It's time well spent.

[@hosr888]

Hurry up and do clockworks now :D

[@scottcorn]

lol I started last night. I needed a small break from it this last weekend.

[@Victor-rz8wk]

Все супер, но дебильная музыка в тоску вгоняет