Voron v2 gantry tramming and z offset mechanics

[@beanMosheen]

Everything about that process seems better than the other ways printers usually work. I can't wait for my parts to arrive!

[@SenseiLeif]

Super video, would love to see more of these "short" know-hows for the Voron. Very clear, thanks again! :)

[@rexsolomon6325]

Thank you Nero 3DP!!! You saved me from a LOT of re-printing. I started printing version 2.2 and just noticed your printer is WAAAYYY different and improved in design.

[@mariom6433]

Hello Your voron looks great, congratulations. In my own I also wanted to program such leveling, is there a chance to see your printer.cfg file?

[@morraderi]

Great video. Amazing work. Are you using BTT or Duet in this printer?

[@derektran9404]

It's klipper with SKR Boards

[@crashmaxx1987]

That was really quick! Ok, I need your printer.cfg because my voron takes a few minutes to do gantry tramming.

[@CanuckCreator]

This one is actually on RRF, was built back before klipper was a thing and ive been dragging along the whole controller setup since then.

[@thesleepydogs]

Thanks for posting this. I think the QGL [quad_gantry_level] process is different in Klipper? Do you run a G28 when running a bed mesh calibration too? Homing XY in Klipper for me seems to auto home Z even though the command is G28 X Y. Do you also run a machine with Klipper? I watched your 2.2 to 2.4 tear down the other day too. I am about to do a 2.1 to 2.4 "upgrade", just waiting on parts...

[@squiresuzuki]

How is it able to do this physically? Just flex in the extrusion and plastic brackets, or is there some kind of joint? Seems like it would stress the brackets and rails, at least in the extreme example you set up in this video.

[@notjannet]

Okay yeah, that looks pretty sweet.

[@KevinNguyen-zn4vv]

I plan to test the accuracy of the auto leveling system by adding a dial gauge. It should be a fun experiment just for kicks.

[@red_juan]

Is it possible that this unevenness of the gantry break it's parts ?

[@speakerLab]

what kind of blow is the sensor, please tell me?

[@dancarstea6248]

Hi. I have a corexy printer. And after i do QLG the left side is 2 mm higher than the right side... Bed is perfect level... Nothing ia bend....

[@scottmurphy8769]

What are your printer settings to make this preform as it did?

[@Duraltia]

So I've been reading the 2.4 Build Manual and been skipping through some videos but somewhere along I must have missed the part explaining the required _final_ length of the Z-Touch Probe Pin - The Build has a graphic listing it at 33mm but the manual also mentions it needing adjustment which makes sense as it is highly depending on the combined thickness of a build platter PEI spring steel bed mag sandwich but what is the final length of it? With the entire sandwich assembled do we simply shorten it down until the PINs top surface is flush with the Build Platform one and at what stage would we want it to be flush? While the Z-Axis Switch below the PIN is relaxed or while it is triggered? Coming from an i3 MK3S with MMU2S I'm also kinda hesitant in making the jump to a Voron 2.4 ( besides the increased build volume I also find the tool swap ability of it intriguing ) as losing the MMU2S' provided Multi Material Printing capability is kinda really huge for me - In one of your videos you've mentioned that the MMU2(S) might be the only current option to go with in terms of Multi Material Printing ( with alternatives like a Pallet not being able to keep up ) on the Vorons but I couldn't really find any information on someone having it done - You wouldn't have any more information on that?

[@CanuckCreator]

The pins needs to be long enough so its roughly even with the print surface. Plus or minus a wee bit is ok..long as the nozzle.can reach it witgout hitting anything. As for mmu. That style of multimaterial is functional on a voron. Other methods like y splitter or palette work too

[@Duraltia]

​@@CanuckCreator Aii... That was a fast reply 😮 Any recommendation where to look for additional information on how to get the Prusa MMU2S hooked up and working with a 2.4? A Voron SubReddit search has a whopping 4 results related to MMU coming up and none of them actually talk about someone having one running 😐

[@CanuckCreator]

@@Duraltia voron discord is the best place

[@Duraltia]

@@CanuckCreator Hmm... Okay. Thanks! 👍

[@kaanaslan_tr]

Are you using mostly chinese parts or do you have high quality misumi parts in the build?

[@CanuckCreator]

The frame is misumi, rails are from CNA on aliexpress, bearings are fushi off of aliexpress as well.

[@BryanMorganGoogle]

Is this specific to RRF? I'm starting a 2.4 build now and was going to do Klipper.

[@bugsysiegals]

I assume the nozzle probe has to be aligned to the top of the bed?

[@MSM5500]

not really. You figure out your actual nozzle probe (Z-home switch) offset in reference to a printing table surface in empirical way then specify the value found in the printer.cfg file. Once the offest specified any new nozzles will be zeroed at the same Z0 level after changeover as the previous one.

[@marklandsaat3696]

That Voron 2 is an amazing printer 👍

[@fbwa6452]

I was wondering why not use PINDAv2 it could compensate the heating offset? The price is around 10$ maybe there is a reason not to go this way? :)

[@CanuckCreator]

Iirc there is a mount adapter for it somewhere. Its not really need though unless your temps change between probing each corner during each run as the microswitch handles the offset.

[@fbwa6452]

@@CanuckCreator thx for the answer. That's what I'm trying to understand. It's cheap (around 8$) and small and does the same job as microswitch + the sensor (ali 12$). Maybe I'm missing something :)

[@AndyHendriks]

@@fbwa6452 Bed tramming is not the same as Z offset. The probe handles tramming (how bent is the bed and compensate) and the switch handles the Z offset (distance nozzle to bed).

[@chaogan7957]

Is this the new Version 2.4?

[@marvinhuth4487]

can you do me a huge favour? it looks like you know what you are doing, so what is the deal with the smooth idlers? i have been looking in all the wrong places for a good reason to do this.

[@CanuckCreator]

Smooth idlers allow larger bearings which last longer. Also in testing ive found barely if any noticable difference in print quality so kept the smooth idlers

[@marvinhuth4487]

@@CanuckCreator thank you. there are larger tooth wheels available though. i just worry about the belt profile. Also i have only ever seen it with bearings that where smaller than a 20teeth pulley, so where would be the point in that(compressive force?)?

[@scottmurphy8769]

My Voron 2.4 doesn't preform like yours. Can you send me your printer.cfg ?

[@CanuckCreator]

This machine was running RRF at the time the video was made

[@scottmurphy8769]

@@CanuckCreator Mine doesn't make the corrections nor start or stop at the center of bed

[@Nobody-Nowhere]

this design is the smartest, are there any cheap chinese printers using this design? with a stationary print bed`?

[@jacksoni349]

Not that I know of

[@shinuza]

There are chinese copies, but not exactly cheap. The Troodon is one of them. It starts at 1300 euros.

[@UnashevRM]

1:20 kzbin.info/www/bejne/nKKnlK2Xpqpoqa8 Что его так кособочит? каретка нагнулась относительно горизонта.

[@kiloqubit]

It corrected itself to be parallel with the bed after measuring the four corners and realizing it was not parallel.

[@CanuckCreator]

То, что вы видите, является поправкой к раме гентри, чтобы она была квадратной к кровати. В начале видео я переместил каждый угол, чтобы сместить выравнивание - google translate