VW Golf Carburetor Adjustments. Setting Fast Idle & Choke on Pierburg 2E2 Carb

Adjusting the Fast Idle and Choke. (see also; • VW Golf Mk2 1.8 Pierbu... ). For Removing the Carb (see; • How to Fix a Carbureto... ), For Start Up (see; • Cold Start VW Golf Mk2... ).

[@ifitsgotwheels]

I'm so happy to get a thumbs up almost immediately I put this video on here, thanks :)

[@michaelmarcik2711]

Thank you very much for this video! I have golf 1.3 pierburg 2e carb,had problem with choke system so i buy new bimetal choke and the other parts of this carb,but now the choke in cold start has about 700revs,so i hope this will set this choke to normal settings,thank you.

[@dubtasticlife8840]

Thanks mate for getting back! I will check the throttle flap gaps you have given. My carb flange is all good as checked that. I am buying some compressed air to check if I have leaking vacuum hoses. On inspection they look good, but could there be internal problems? If needed I will buy silicone tubes as they are cheap enough from EBay. I put the waxstat in boiling water and the pin moves freely. I still have a warm start problem. I have the heat shield connected and also the green vacuum ball and the air box is standard. Also I noticed when I am driving and I hit the gas pedal aggressively, it starts to misfire a bit. Any ideas? Could this be down to the flange settings? Perhaps fuel pump? My inline fuel filter is nice and clean and so is my fuel filler neck. My carb is Pierburg 2E2

[@iVolkswagen]

Thanks for the video! I bought a 1983 Passat and it was idling very high when warm and adjusting the first screw that you showed on the flap brought the idle down perfectly. Thank you!

[@Idiot-Aboard]

I've just bought mk2 1.8 16V driver sadly the engine isn't as good condition as the one you working on. But I just wanted to say thanks for these videos as there a huge help

[@PeculiarFinds]

Awesome! Awesome! Awesome! Going outside to do exactly this to my 2e2 right now! Many thanks for these super helpful videos bud!

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Thanks, this was always a crap carb beforehand! ...we just never knew how to adjust the dam choke, and only ever set it with the allen key / back bit before! Finding out the front bit turned and then knowing how much to turn both the front and back bits, has turned this into much more of a delight! Scratching those numbers on the dial has helped too, as we have been able to make slight adjustments being sure exactly how much we have turned the dial, without having to take the airbox off each time. In the colder weather it seems that opening the gap (turning front dial anticlockwise a little) has helped us when starting this car. but knowing where to start from does make one hell of a difference with stuff like this :)

[@uarellano7115]

ifitsgotwheels hi, I'm from México and i have been facing some issues with this carb. My car Is throwing black smoke when I push hard the acelerator. I think that my mixture is using more Fuel than air... To adjust the air entry Is with the allen adjust ? Thanks since now.

[@Aircooledflat4bug]

The screw which you adjusted on the throttle flap is the adjustment for the fast idle speed when you first fire the car up. It’s not for the slow idle speed which is set by the 3 point unit. The choke adjustments you made are for the choke pull down unit. The choke flap itself is set by loosening the 3 screws of the choke housing and rotating it. All this info can be found in the pierburg manual available as a pdf online.

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Thanks for the info. I really didn't know what I was doing at the time. Just thought I would make a vid of what I did as much to help myself if I needed it again as it was to help others . It seemed to work and I finally had that car running well for my brother, then someone drove into it writing it off not long after. Thankfully his replacement, a Polo R-line has fuel injection!

[@Aircooledflat4bug]

@@ifitsgotwheels I don’t blame you, these carbs are really complicated. I’ve managed to get my head round the basic principles but still got lots to learn.

[@osmankirac]

Hi. Opel vectra a 1991 model car has a carburetor from pierburg. These settings should be few millimeters for my tool. thanks

[@davidvimpany2783]

Hello! I have a mk2 GL. I’ve had a lot of issues with mine, particularly the carb like most people but I was hoping you could give me some advice. On a cold start My 3 quarter point unit slowly pushing my idle from about 2k all the way to 3100rpm and will sit there for ages. Eventually the car heats up and it retracts leaving my idle at a reasonable 1100rpm. However… after driving a bit, the Unit will suddenly extend into the throttle arm and the idle goes nuts… sometimes it goes back to normal and sometimes it carries on revving high. It’s really frustrating. What can I do about this? 😫

[@filipefreire6517]

which adjustment is wrong in the carb if I only have problems with power and acceleration response. I can crank the burner to the max and nothing and sometimes the engine seems to choke to answer

[@giuliotech5990]

You should the choke the other way around. So first the 5 and then the 2,5 mm setting, because if you set the 2,5 and then need to change the bigger opening it will also affect the smaller one. And the idle setting is done by the screw on the back.

[@sbertonib]

Hi, amazing video. Could you tell me how do you turn the adjusting screw clockwise? What tool do you use and from where do you grab the adjusting screw? Thanks!

[@ifitsgotwheels]

stefano bertoni hi I just used an ordinary pair of pliers to turn the adjusting screw! With the engine switched off I would lift the flap upwards to make it easier to get the pliers in where I could turn them. I kept the pliers as far down the theaded bit as I could but found I did not damage the thteads anyway! The most important bit if holding up the flap to do this is to be careful not to use too much upwards pressure otherwise the carb might split the mount it is sat on depending on how old and condition of the rubber mount. those screws are hard to turn so you may do better oiling it first and try and put a mark on the screw too so you know if it is turning as you may only be able to shift it a little bit of a turn at a time. not sure if these screws should have had a big head on them to do this, maybe it did originally and it's been snapped off making this the fiddly job it is! best of luck

[@danilovukicevic6291]

Hi, there, You have great videos. i just want to ask, do you have worked with vw mk2 1.3? Is there any video you have about that engine...My problems are : The choke won t pull down until I press the throtle. When it s cold (below 10 degress) it cutts when idle...Not smootj accelerazion...if you have any link or suggestion how to solve these problms, please answer...thanks

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Danilo Vukicevic Hi, sorry I do not have any videos on the 1.3. This 1.8 is my brothers car which I seem to spend all my free time on just to keep him on the road! He did have a 1.3 several years ago which we also tinkered on but we did not make any videos back then. I remember he had lots of problems with his mk2 1.3 that we thought were choke and clutch related, but in his case all the problems were caused by worn engine mounts! & not with the carb itself like it does seem to be on your car. I just wish I knew more about cars to help you further, but with us, like you, it's been a case of having to fix things ourselves to try and learn from it.

[@ifitsgotwheels]

It could be the Waxstat causing it. You can remove it from the carb and put it in some boiling water and let it cool down. This will help reset it. Sometimes boiling the Waxstat is just a temporary fix as it could be too far gone, but it is one woth trying before buying a new one. Also just check the vacuum pipes all seem good as these are supercheap to replace. also check the mount is solid, if the carb rocks, the mount under it could have a split in it causing vacuum problems.

[@johnnash579]

Hi Great video. Can you tell me wher I can buy the vacuum tubes for the Pierburg 2E2

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi, I was given the new tubing I used, but you can buy silicone tube in a choice of colours from a little over a £1 up! (delivered!) on ebay! A metre of 3mm hose should be enough, I don't have the car here to check though. {The stuff I used measured 3mm on the inside and measures about 7mm on the outside}. thanks.

[@Scorpionbe]

I have also a 1.8 liter GU engine, but when i start the engine goes perfect and also when the engine is running after the choke is done it runs @ 800/900 rpm. But when the engine is warm and i put my clutch in when driving, the engine falls to a 400/500 rpm and somethimes wants to stop running. Its start right again without a problem. And runs fine.

[@jkbkratky]

Comparable issue with my car but it tends to die so I'm looking for some fix. Any hint please?

[@VR6_SKC]

Anyone have any advice for me , my car likes to die when the engine is up to temp, and the overrun cutoff isn't activated when the first screw shown is adjusted to keep the idle

[@g1ng3r3131]

excellent info! thanks :)

[@bboyimortel]

Hello can you share the adjustment settings for a mercedes 190 2EE pierburg carb please?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi I got my info off a Golf forum which only had Golf and Passat listed, www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871

[@telmoribeiro3931]

I need to know how to hose that carburator any tips, forums or paper work in how to do that

[@ifitsgotwheels]

when I was looking for info, I started here; www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0

[@chazvw8077]

thanks nice video for setting choke...please advice me how to increase revs on my 1992 1.3 golf..many thanks

[@ifitsgotwheels]

shakil saleem sorry it's over a decade since we had one and I had never messed with any carbs back then

[@chazvw8077]

ifitsgotwheels thanks anyway.. its just that i cant see any adjusting srews.. back in late 90s most car i used to mess with were simple..

[@Limou551]

weber have them, with bigger secondary

[@danilovukicevic6291]

Thanks

[@6MetaLFish]

Hi Mate! great to see someone who has knowledge about this ancient type of engines :) I was trying to find anyone nearby ho would be able to check my carb but there is no chance to do anything.. I've got to do this on my own, so could You please give me some knowlegde ;) 1) cold start is terrible. i've got to pump acceleration pedal a few times, and then engine is able to start 2) i got to hold the pedal for a few moments, otherwise engine dies.. 3) when he is cold he runs about 1200 revs and then rises to about 2200rpm on choke. 4) choke is active until the engine gets really hot and then revs fall to about 900rpm. i think the problem are let's say the "petrol flaps" 1st one is too wide open and then when engine gets hot the wax element is closing it to normal position. if it is possible, could You please make a video with the second carb U got, which is not mounted which elements I should check and set properly? My engine is petrol only and it is identical with Your's except the steering wheel side :) I'm a bit tired with current petrol consumption (which is much to high) and cold start problems.. It is the Golf 2 GLX version with almost all additional equipment (except the conditioning) and I'm trying to fix it but have no possibility to do so.. Thank You for Your time to reading this!

[@ifitsgotwheels]

+karasiu 666 Hi, I don't actually know as much about engines or carbs as these videos seem to suggest, I've just been in the same boat as you are now. I made the videos after sourcing whatever info I could from the internet. It's still the only car/carb I've ever messed with! You will need to look at this page www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0 to see which of the vacuum pump settings are the correct ones for your car, so that you can check them as I have shown in the video above (as I am not sure of your car). If your settings are already correct, then your problem could be an air/vacuum one, rather than a petrol one, as your cold start and revs would seem to suggest, this could be down to the choke but I would look first at the vacuum pipes as these do perish along with the other rubber pipes. Worth checking are the rubber pipe that comes off the inlet manifold, and the carb mount, if your carb moves about too freely you may have split in it. & will have to remove the carb to confirm/change. Removing the carb is not a big job (& really that's one of the 1st videos I should have made, maybe next time I get the car, as it's my brother's car.). Extra air getting in through split pipes/mount when cold could be causing your symtoms. As always though the waxstats can upset everything so if you have never tried taking it off and puttin it in a pot of boiling water until it cools down then it's worth taking it off and trying this, as it can work wonders. thanks.

[@Klovborg2002]

Hey Do u know what The settings for a Scirocco 1.6 with enginecode "RE 1986-1990"

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi, I'm not sure on that one, try here ( www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0 ) and see if anything here looks familiar!?

[@dubtasticlife8840]

Hi mate, I followed your guide and set the throttle flap space, replaced vacuum hoses, set the 3.4 unit, put a new manifold gasket and O ring and a new Carb flange. I have put everything back but the car wont start> It turns over but just wont start. In adjusted the CO idle screw but its not having it. All the hoses are on where they should be and I have checked that all wires are connected. Any ideas?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

+Dubtastic life Hi, even though it's been almost a year since I set up this carb, we found that over the last winter as the temp got cooler undoing/turning the big dial anticlockwise overcame any starting difficulties we had, and as the summer approached we turned it back in bit by bit too. we found that adjusting the rear screw in by half a turn helped, but was best left alone after this If it was starting beforehand, it should be starting now! Once you have reset to factory settings you can make adjustments after this to try to improve the starting/running, it's just knowing the factory settings give you something to go back to afterwards, even if you lose track of how many turns left or right you make. When you have set it up, I found turning the big dial in and counting the turns it takes, makes reseting it easier afterwards.. Over the past few days I decided that just for good measure I would get a new seals kit and replace all the seals before this winter. Inside the carb was not as complex as I thought, and only a few seals were needed (out of the many you get in the kit), and I would think unlikely the cause of too many problems. I cleaned all the inside of the carb and jets with carb cleaner but at £33 for the new seals off ebay, I could have just left it as it was, I was doing it just for the extra peace of mind! there was a petrol float inside which looked okay, I was not sure how to remove the replacable valve beneath it though. I was bending the float back, but realised this would only break it, you have to remove the pin with a hammer, hitting the small pin out towards the outside of the carb. Better spent money has just gone on the rubber elbow for the vacuum pipes that comes off the intake manifold, apparantly this is a big cause of starting problems so is worth checking/replacing, and you can see and access it down the righthandside of the carb, without having to remove the carb again. Ours was almost torn off and had a long split in it too! They are no longer available from vw, but a '12mm 45° Degree Silicone Elbow hose' hose off ebay with an inch or two cut off each end suited it perfectly. Sorting out the vacuum is a big player, but still leaves enough to go wrong enough to cause problems elsewhere, and what with the waxstat, auto choke, 3/4 point, etc. problems can be seriously hard to find. Best of Luck.

[@dubtasticlife8840]

+ifitsgotwheels What dial do you mean that you turn anticlockwise mate?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

+Dubtastic life sorry the one at 2m50s. I'm not great on technical words/names!

[@zoran1254]

Hi, can you explain me, how to set idle to approximately 1400rpm when engine is cold, running on choke? I watch this video, trying same as you, but unfortunately i can't do that...

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi the only info I found on these carbs was for setting the revs when the car was warm, the chokes were just done by measurement. A more accurate way of setting the revs was on my other video here; kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6iohmeHjb1olas

[@pablochsky2426]

I am following your videos and I want to set my carb but I want to be sure of the measurements. My car is a Passat year 1989 engine 1.6 EZ 75ps, manual 4 speed. Thanks

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi, I get all the settings from this page here; www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0 - it only lists up to 1988 for Passats, so not sure if that will suit your model? or not? as I don't know enough about VW's to confirm the details. (Anyway the result they show are Passat 1.6 / '83-'88 / DT / manual / 2.6 / 5.0). 88/89 being a changeover year may mean your 89 car is completely different. I would think the results shown are for a 'B2' model. I don't know if the engines would have been the same in B2 /B3 cars, as I am clueless on Passats. Hope you can sort it.

[@pablochsky2426]

@@ifitsgotwheels thanks for answer

[@pablochsky2426]

@@ifitsgotwheels You know why my butterfly is always open? I have disassembled the cover to adjust it following your instructions and I find that I cannot close it. Look this video please: drive.google.com/file/d/1TEFlhneS-sHJTxEwE_b4LkoAHNgEmEV6/view?usp=sharing

[@HeinriksPatriks]

Hello.Where i can find which wires i need to connect and where? Thank You.Pierburg 2ee.Jetta 1.6PN

[@ifitsgotwheels]

not sure, wires not shown on here www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871

[@pinkfloyd7726]

Danke danke 100o mal Danke !!

[@zwencore]

What is the green thin connected to the carb?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

It's a vacuum reservoir.

[@MrSomethingdark]

Just in case, can you please name what do the A and B tubes lead to?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi, the lower one goes to the base of the carb. the top one goes to the split for the vacuum reservoir, see here; kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnzdamyYeZd-gNE thanks.

[@bean0423]

Is there any difference in adjusting for Automatic Transmission or Manual Transmission? Thanks for your time.

[@ifitsgotwheels]

+bean0423 yes, settings are different for 1.6 and 1.8's, so too for engine codes (this is the letters part at the start of your engine number, e.g. GU, EW, EZ etc. found on your V5/V5C/logbook), and if the car is an Automatic or manual. If your car is a 1.8 GU Auto, then this would require settings of 2.3 and 4.7mm. thanks.

[@bean0423]

+ifitsgotwheels I found this link www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0 was wondering if those measurements looked correct. Mine Is a 1.6 Auto EZ so looks like 2.9 and 6.0mm

[@ifitsgotwheels]

+bean0423 yes, 2.9 and 6.0mm, that's what I get too.

[@bean0423]

+ifitsgotwheels So with the air hose you blow into could I just remove the other end of it and blow into that? I do not have any spare line.

[@ifitsgotwheels]

+bean0423 hi the tube you pull off 'A', you could pull the other end of that tube off the front of the carb and use that one. but suck, not blow.

[@nuskox]

Can you please tell me its there way to decrease ore increase fuel consumption on this carb? I cant find that on this carb. Thanks

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi i think the CO2 adjustment screw may alter the air/fuel mix and increase/decrease the fuel consumption as a result (someone correct me if I have got that wrong!). The CO2 adjustment screw is located under the rubber stopper on the air filter box (when the air filter box is in place), or in that narrow tube that is the highest point of the carburetor (if the air filter box has been removed). Of course the fast idle, timing and the way you drive all have an effect too, but i think it may be that CO2 you need!? I have never adjusted one though. thanks.

[@nuskox]

ifitsgotwheels Ok, thank you mate, gonna try that. Thanks again.

[@miorahmadfadhli7558]

Hey bud. Any guide for Pierburg 2b4 tune?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

sorry i don't have that info

[@miorahmadfadhli7558]

@@ifitsgotwheels tq sir. No worries. Trying to find that info for old bimmer

[@jaggass]

Hows it been since the setting up the choke and carb?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

+michael jagger hi since doing this the only thing we had to do was adjust the dial at 2m50s when the weather warmed up more. Late last year the Waxstat decided it was completely dead. We replaced it with a brand new one, and checked the setting over again. Since then the car has started and run graet with no adjustments. Got some brake judder to investigate now though. always something!

[@dubtasticlife8840]

will all the adjustments be the same on the 1.6cc carb?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Dubtastic life Hi your 1.6, what year is it, is it Manual or Automatic? and do you know which engine code you have?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Golf 1.6 1983-1992 / EW/EZ / manual Stage I : 2.8mm Stage II : 5.6mm

[@0121goanddoone]

I have this carb on my mk1 1.5 gl what would i set the gaps too?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi all the info on settings I get from here; www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0 I am not sure how settings differ for different cars/engines, but at least you may get a rough range to work from if nothing else.

[@dubtasticlife8840]

My car is a 1984 1.6cc Carb engine. It is Manual. Engine code is EW007503. Thanks so much for your help. I took it to a so called VW specialist and the car came back worse than before and me £200 lighter. The bolts holding the carb down were not even tight enough and I started getting steam on the engine. What is involved in a complete rebuild? Do you need to buy some kind of kit and is it something that can be done by someone with limited knowledge with some help of a tutorial?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Dubtastic life For Golf 1.6 1983-1992 / EW/EZ / manual Stage I : 2.8mm Stage II : 5.6mm Hope this helps! These carbs are a real nightmare! but having a reset/starting point sometimes stops you from going insane! I have never taken a carb to bits, this video was the first time ever that I ever messed with a carb on a car! I thought I would have to do a rebuild, there are kits to do so on ebay/ at motor factors, but just changing the pipes and diping the waxstat helped considerably on this car! here's what I did with the carb off kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnzdamyYeZd-gNE. Inside the carb I expected to find a plastic petrol float for the choke from what I was told and thought it might have a leak, never took the carb apart though, and kits just seem to be seal kit, so what is inside I don't know! My local carb shop closed down so never got it to a so-called expert!

[@csuha01]

what is my carburetor not having an adjustable pulldowndose? It says it's a Pierburg 2e carb. How can I adjust the first, 2,5 mm gap?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi I have only had carbs with them fitted so do not know how the ones without it, and I no longer have the car, as it has just been written off :(

[@csuha01]

thanks for the reply, i will continue the searching

[@Raelvr]

Many pierburg carbs from VW have only "2e" as model, but looking near the model, you find the VW number, usually 052192016 with a letter at the end, in my case F for a 2E3 model before 07/1985. Googling for number you'll find the correct model. Take a look to this doc www.ruddies-berlin.de/grafik/2e3dat3.gif

[@Processor19980323]

I have a bad milage on 2E. 1.6 8v engine.I cleaned the carb,what can i do to solve it?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

it could be anything from bad vacuum pipes or waxstat or even things like plugs, leads or timing! I never know where to start myself, so usually start with whatever works out cheapest or easiest. Vacuum pipes can be replaced easily in my other vids. The mount should be okay if the carb is solid in place. the plugs can be wire brushed if not replaced. but let's not forget the air filter as they are often overlooked and can even get oily too on the golf. dizzy cap and rotor arm can usually sand paper the contacts, but be careful to never ever scratch the plastic. Most parts are cheap to replace but it's a bit of a nightmare when you you don't know which want replacing. trial and error is my usual method, sorry :(

[@iulia2009]

Thenkiu. Il carburator mach for benzina, what's it?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi. I am not sure what you mean. The settings for the carb I got from here; www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871 if that helps in any way. The car ran on unleaded (95) petrol, but would of originally ran on the old 4-star petrol when new, I do not know if that makes any difference to any of the settings, I doubt it would make much difference. Car was a 1991 Golf 1.8.

[@iulia2009]

@@ifitsgotwheels grazie mille!

[@jaggass]

this carb looks complicated how often do you have to set it all up?.

[@ifitsgotwheels]

+michael jagger Hi once set up, I don't think you are supposed to need to make any alterations, ...although we have found that when it gets really cold in winter unscrewing the big dial to adjust the choke a little has helped, and then turning it back in during summertime. We also tried making little adjustments with the allen key throughout the year too to see if it differed, but found that it was best to leave it how it was. If this carb was to be stripped completely and new service kit installed, then maybe it would then work throughout the year without any adjustment whatsoever. maybe next time....

[@georgebyron9007]

Hi does anyone know the adjustment settings for 91 mk2 golf 1.6 pierburg carb?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Golf 1.6 / '83-'92 / EW/EZ / manual 2.8 5.6 Golf 1.6 / '83-'92 / EW/EZ / automatic 2.9 6.0 Golf 1.6 Cat. / '86-'92 / RF / manual 2.5 5.0 Golf 1.6 Cat. / '86-'92 / RF / automatic 2.9 4.8

[@MsDellia]

thank you your a star!

[@MSoloWacck]

I have exactly the same carburetor and when i press the gas pedal the car stumbles (almost like pressing the brakes and then after 2 sec picks up with a loud ding) and the acceleration is weaker in 2nd gear does barely 70 km/h, When i bought it, it was doing 90km/h and wanted to go even more, please help me cuz no one cares to fix the car (and in 4th gear barely does 140km/h, i know it has to do something with carburetor)

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Is your waxstat good as that is the biggest problem on these, it should move quite freely, you can test it, pressing it or improve it by putting it into some boiling water kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnzdamyYeZd-gNE . The air filter would sometimes get oily on these, so check yours is clean enough, otherwise check for vacuum leaks, and check the carb feels solid on the engine, as if it doesn't the rubber mount underneath is prone to splitting and upsets the running. Those are the easiest and cheapest checks you can do, after that it means taking things apart further and replacing the seals with new ones, so it is worth trying to make a few adjustments with your own set up first, setting the carb gaps and turning the idle screws, but make a note of any starting positions. Best of luck.

[@MSoloWacck]

@@ifitsgotwheels Thank's very very much man😃 I'm going to try these steps hopefully im going to get it fixed. Take care and stay safe✌

[@makot1212gmailcom]

Hi there I've watched this video and I still can't understand why my choke flap stays fully open when the car is shut off and cooled down how could I fix that am I missing some spring?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Max Thiel hi I am not sure how and when they shut themselves. it's possible the outside temperatures are warm enough now that they don't need to!? I no longer have carb car to check

[@makot1212gmailcom]

I've tried all the methods and my car still stays at 2000rpm and the flap won't close thanks for the help😊

[@ifitsgotwheels]

yeah at 2000revs it's possible your waxstat is stuck in the hot position. this would keep the pin pressing on the bar behind it and keep the revs up. Check out my other videos, as you can put the waxstat in boiling water to check it and hopefully improve its working. It can be removed from the carb without removing the whole carb, but look at my other vid first to see it.

[@makot1212gmailcom]

I've put it in boiling water before like your other video shows but it seems to be stuck again I'll try and put it in boiling water again and see what happens and again thank you for your help

[@ifitsgotwheels]

yeah it might just need doing again and hopefully that will keep it going for another while. we did the one we had a few times and got another year or more out of it but in the end ended up having to get a new one.

[@MartinianSparks]

the 4.9mm gap on mee is fully openn how can i fix it ?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

hi the weather is warm outside so it may not be cold enough at the moment for the choke flap to close. check first thing in the morning see if it is closed then

[@vedadrokkor]

is it the same for 1.1 37kW engine?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Your car may have a different carb as all the settings I can find for this one seem to be for 1.6 and 1.8 litre cars sorry!

[@vedadrokkor]

thanks for quick reply...seems like there is no many left mk1 with 1.1L engine

[@renshouben1682]

When I close the choke flap it opens Automatic. How can I fix that?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

It should close itself when the temperature cools back down!

[@thecarguymk2]

Can i contact you in anyway I need some help with my 2e2?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi everything I understood about these carbs is contained within my videos, most of the info I found on them was from the forum posts here; www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0 . I never knew anything about them beforehand but was just stuck in a bad situation and decided to make the vids as I went along. The car in the vids was my youngest brothers so I only ever saw it occassionally, usually when it was running bad. Finally we had it running great but it has since been written off. I also had pics of his VW on my car website 'Pixels1dotcom' but don't think I ever got round to adding the carb vids there.

[@thecarguymk2]

@@ifitsgotwheels mine keeps stalling but I'm sure it's nothing to do with ignition

[@bikewreck85]

where does the tube go from the green ball?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

please see here; kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnzdamyYeZd-gNEm50s, thanks.

[@bikewreck85]

thanks , just got mine back from garage having the head gasket done and they have connected the pipes up totally wrong. thanks very much for this.

[@bikewreck85]

theres a breather pipe that comes from the distributor, can you tell me where that goes?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

hopefully you can see it in these pics here; pixels1.com/000/car/vw-golf-mk2/vac-pipe-pic-01.jpg pixels1.com/000/car/vw-golf-mk2/vac-pipe-pic-02.jpg in pic 2 it is at the bottom it should join onto the same pipework that pipe from the green ball joins onto.

[@bikewreck85]

in mine , where the round thing is with the bolt in the middle, theres two pipes coming out horizontally. on yours they are not there so i just bypassed them and all seems to be working fine now. thanks for your help its very much appreciated. heres a pic of mine can you tell me what thing is for goo.gl/photos/HRpu1twqCTzHvsuv9

[@stefanbaranowski5241]

Hey man, just a quick question again! So my carb is pretty much identical to the carb shown in this video, but i'm missing the 'choke pull down unit' and 'vacuum reservoir' (Really don't understand why!) I'm just wondering, what exactly are the 2 pipes that leave the choke unit going into and where in the carb is the vacuum reservoir connected too? You can buy a new choke unit off eBay for around £15 and i'm thinking of grabbing the vacuum reservoir from an old golf as spares. You think it's possible to connect the two to the carb?. Here's a picture of the front of my carb... postimg.org/image/llfrccnhx/ Thanks buddy!

[@ifitsgotwheels]

+Stefan Baranowski Hi if you have only just bought your car in the last 6 months, then it could just be that the previous owner was having some trouble with the carb, and then sold the car with 'choke pull down unit' removed as they were able to get it to run this way. Of course that won't help now with winter fast approaching. If you have already had it though a winter with it like this, then maybe it can work this way, but in any case I think somebody has removed the parts from it. I am not sure how any of the vacuums work. If you do get one, then although it is difficult to do, the 'choke pull down unit' can indeed be fitted without the removal of the autochoke unit. to do this you need to turn it on it's axis by 90 degrees, then aim the little adjuster screw on the far end of it though the adjuster screw hole (the screw may need adjusting forwards or backwards to manage this!), then it's a case of straightening and rotating the 'choke pull down unit' into place! A bit tricky, but you will see there is a tiny cut away section on the carb just above the peg you are fighting with to allow it to be done this way, so I guess it is suppossed to be done like this. Once you have the parts. I can just see a vac pipe running to the front of your carb at the bottom of the pic. that pipe should instead run to a joint, with one end going to the vac reservoir and the other running to connection B on the 'choke pull down unit'. A tube should also run from connection A on the 'choke pull down unit' to the place where you have just pulled the other vac pipe off at the front of the carb. Hopefully a 'choke pull down unit' makes a big difference and you don't need a waxstat. hopefully. I hate carbs, it's all a case of best guessing, as my technical understanding of them is still only a 'this might do that' / 'or alter that' sort of thing! bect of luck

[@stefanbaranowski5241]

I bought the car last year in August, and the parts weren't on then, but to be fair it got through last winter okay.. I did have a moment where the car backfired when I was driving in February and the revs kicked up to 4k as well as a minute of over run once the ignition was turned off... Safe to say, my girlfriend was absolutely scared to death haha I'm going to purchase both the choke pull down unit and the reservoir and have a play around with them both. Someone mentioned on the Golf Forum that the pull down should easily fit to the carb which is good news. Once I have received all the parts, I may need your help on making sure things go as intended! I'll refer back to your videos to make sure i'm on the right track, but I may be requesting a photo or two from you in the near future! Thanks for your help man, much appreciated.

[@granit96]

I have to ask you some questions about my pierburg 2e , can I contact you on email Thanks

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi I don't really know much about carbs only what I have shown in the vids. I was stumped myself for a long time trying to get the car to run well before I gained a basic understanding. Most of the info I used to make the vids was from here www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871 . As to how the carbs actually work beyond that and what each bit does is still beyond me, and we no longer have the golf to look at, to compare now, only old photos and these vids now. My pixels1 site has all the stuff I have done on the Golfs all of which were my Brothers'. The 1.8 shown was written off 2 years ago now, when someone drove into it, and fed up with forever fixing his Mk2 VW Golfs, I went and got him a Black Polo 1.2 R-line, instead, which has freed up so much more of my time, ....for now!

[@josephuni7959]

That's not a GTI...