VW Golf Mk2 1.8 Pierburg Carb Settings. Fast Idle & Tickover.

[@magdagrochocka7417]

Hello, I have a problem with a Golf MK1 with a Pierburg 2E carburetor. The problem is the lack of idle speed. The engine starts very nicely, cold and warm. The yellow flap is constants open. Do you have idea what can causing this problem?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

As the engine starts nice both hot and cold then i would not worry about the choke. In the summer time it will be open pretty much all the time anyway except on really cold mornings. In the past, before problems got too serious for me, I would simply have adjusted only the fast idle screw (thinking this was just The Idle screw). I would have just turned that in a half turn or turn, (clockwise from front of car) (making a note of this) and just adjusted a couple more times if needed to see if it went any better, which always seemed to work for me. Better that that is to use both idles as I have shown, although cars without a rev counter I understand makes this difficult. The other thing to try is to turn the dizzy cap on top of the distributor, as rotating the dizzy cap advances or retards the timing and can improve the idle. This is not always easy to do as the set screw that needs to be losened to allow the top part to rotate often becomes stuck over time! Ideally altering the timing at the dizzy cap should be done in conjuction with a timing gun pointed at the timing belt and markers, but can be done without just by ear or along with the rev counter. Adjusting at the dizzy cap, may when bringing down the idle, fix the running problems, if not the carb may still need adjusting afterwards. Just mark/count/write down any screw turns you make so that you can always revert back to where you started until you can fin the improvement that works for you. Best of luck.

[@marcogiovanelli7899]

Very helpfull thanks from italy

[@catalindobre1113]

Salut am reglat carburatorul ca în videoclip dar cînd ajunge acul la temperatura jumătate pornește electroventilator scade turația motorului la 1000 de rotații ok plec cu ia la, drum cum scade temperatura la apă se trează la 2000 de ture cum o las la relati se încălzește apa merge normal? Șocul carburator ului la curățat vervicat în apa clocotita este ok unde ar fi problema? Aștept comentarii mulțumesc 🤔

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Ventilatorul electric care începe la jumătate de temperatură pare corect. Nu-mi amintesc dacă turele au scăzut atunci când vreunul dintre Golf-urile pe care le-am ajuns la jumătatea drumului. Cred că ar porni între 12-1500 turații, dar probabil ar scădea turațiile la sau sub 1000 probabil mult mai aproape de un sfert de temperatură, dar sincer nu-mi amintesc și nu mai am o mașină aici pentru a testa. S-ar putea ca, deși ați făcut trucul cu apă clocotită pe waxstat, waxstat s-ar putea să ajungă la sfârșitul vieții sale și ar putea provoca o parte a problemei, dar cu aceste mașini și carbohidrați ar putea fi aproape orice, un o curățare bună de carbohidrați nu pierde niciodată, sper să o rezolvați în curând. {Hi, I adjusted the carburetor as in the video, but when the needle reaches half temperature, the electric fan starts. The engine speed drops to 1000 revolutions. normal? The carburetor shock cleaned it boiling in boiling water is ok where would the problem be? I look forward to comments thank you} [The electric fan starting at half temperature seems correct. I can not remember if the revs dropped when any of the Golfs we had got to the halfway point though. I think they would start up at between 12-1500 revs but probably drop the revs to at or below 1000 probably much nearer a quarter temperature, but honestly I can not remember and do not have a car here to test anymore. It could be that even though you have done the boiling water trick on the waxstat, the waxstat may be getting towards the end of its life and may be causing part of the problem, but with these cars and carbs it could be almost anything, a good clean of the carb never goes a miss, I hope you get it sorted soon.]

[@catalindobre1113]

@@ifitsgotwheels salut mulțumesc pentru sugestii socul este de vină a rămas blocat iar, supapa de vacum trebuia legata la curent, ce de 12 v o seară bună

[@Visionery1]

I've just watched your video again, this time on my desktop with a bigger screen. Why not adjust the adjuster pushing on the pin without removing the vacuum pipe, the 3,000RPM route seems like a roundabout way to achieve the same result?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi I often used to just adjust the adjusting screw on the flap (kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKWanZJ4Zq9oarc) whenever the car was running funny, but over time found that it would have to be played with at least twice a year as the seasons and temperatures changed. Over time it had become more of a pain to keep this car running /starting /ticking over, and able to pull away and/or change gears. Looking at Haynes manual (fast idle should be between 2800 and 3200 rpm on this car) and after reading pages/forums like this one www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871 it eventually dawned on me that the screw I was adjust was only a secondary one, and that the rear screw was the main one to find/adjust/learn about. Finding the rear screw made the whole car run much better for us with no more adusting the carb with the seasons, although by now we had all vac problems sorted, carb set, new seals, etc. too. The carbs are known as pooburgs for a reason. I still have little to no understanding of how they actually work, or didn't work! Why they need to be set to 3000 and why the need for them to choke at massive revs on startup in really cold weather I don't know. When running they were great though - but if money and history allowed I would go back and swap them all for Webers. Have an injection Polo now.

[@nickaxe5949]

My son in law has just bought a late Mk1 clipper soft top...the face lit one he tells me...its an 88 G reg. At idea its racing and on turning off the engine it tries to run on...will this adjustment sort it I wonder. I have been told he is better putting a Webber carb on it...love to hear your views guys,.

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi, we only ever had mk2's and this is the only one I ever messed with, so I am not sure if your carb will have a waxstat or not but as the waxstat is often the cause of a racing idle and/or running on after switching off that is one of the first things to try to sort. See my other videos, I show the waxstat removal on them. Simply pop it in some boiling water and after it cools back down refit it and see if that helps. This will often help a faulty waxstat to recover. Other things to check are the vac pipes for any obvious signs of wear or air blowing from them as these can be replaced very cheaply. The mount underneath the carbs on the mk2 models anyway often splits, so if carb seems to loose&shaky when you rock it check that out. A Webber is always the best answer, if you can afford one, for us the price of one was more than we paid for the car so we went for fixing the old one the best we could.

[@RockyM-g4r]

I habe the same motor but intaled in a jetta mk2, I don't know how to carburate the car, can you help me? Or can you make a whole video of how to carburate the car? Thank you very much!!

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi, everything I tried on the carbs, I put in the videos. I knew little about them but found some info on the forums and used that to set the carb, making the videos as we went, glad we don't have it anymore. Changed it for an injection Polo now. The Golf was my brother's, he loved it, I hated it! Clean spark plugs and replace vacuum pipes on carbs and replace air filter cost very little and makes a good start. If carb is solid on engine, that's good. If carb feels loose replace the rubber carb mount too if needed. Setting chokes and idle like in vids if you can is worth doing, but always count the turns so you can revert back if you not happy. Best of luck.

[@jkbkratky]

Hi, nice video. I have issue with similar carb and engine but on Mk1 cabriolet. When it turns hot (circa when the fans turns on, not instantly after temp gauge reach the middle or the oil is warm), idle fell to around 500rpm and the car stars to shake. Sometimes it even dies. I’ve tried to unplug the tube on the back of the unit with the engine turned on but nothing happened for revs (but I've heard a silent hiss). Any hint or what to monitor (position of the pin on the unit or screws)? It has been running fine. When warming up, it idles around 1000rpm after initial boost to around 1500-1700rpm after cold start. Thanks.

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi I am not sure as to what would be the cause. I have been lucky in being able to solve the problems that we came across on the Golfs we had as previously I did not dare mess with the carbs. I got some info off the forums and went from there. It seems the first 2 things to check on the carbs are the cheapest, those being the Earth connections are good and that the vacuum pipes (and carb mount seem ok, not worn or split and holding vacuum). Why yours does not rev up the extra revs on removal of pipe at rear I do not know, and what is causing your revs to fall is also a mystery as it does not happen with the fans but just around that time/temp. Whether any of the coolant sensors can have any effect on the carb etc. I do not know. Whether you have any blockages or build up within the carb is also hard to say. It seems I was lucky being able to replace vac pipes and seals and make some adjustments as it seems far more can actually go wrong with the carbs that I ever imagined, and there seems many components on there that I actually know nothing about never mind their names! I was determined to succeed with the pooberg we had as replacing it with weber would have cost more than was paid for the whole car. It took me a year or two of problems on this car (as it was my brothers' so I would only get to see it and try fixes every now and then) before I finally took the bullet and attempted to remove the carb. I made the videos as I went as had I seen similar vids at the time I would have attempted it all much sooner. Sorry I do not have the answers you are looking for as I only have experience of the problems that we ourselves encountered. Hope you find your soloution soon.

[@jkbkratky]

@@ifitsgotwheels Thanks for intensive supplementary comments! I’ve checked fuse box and a fuse on position 17 was burned (10A one). Changed it and made few rides with no issue. Hope it will cure the issue and perhaps it could help others. Btw. schemes are saying that the position should be empty or serves for injection controller (I have carb).

[@mecarloschavez6281]

My golf doesn’t comes with a tacho - is there a way to connect an external tacho ?

[@jonascabooter5325]

can you adjust low idle when car is running?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Yes I would think so, I can't think of any reason why not, other than less chance of fan coming on whilst working on it.

[@jonascabooter5325]

@@ifitsgotwheels thanks for the answer

[@jaggass]

Is that instrument panel similar to a MK2 Polo?

[@Thatcarguyfixing]

Really helped me out with this, thank you 🙌🏻✌🏻😎

[@neatsimenutikrai]

Hello, thanks for the videos. I removed the vacuum pipe and nothing has changed, no rpm up. The car stays in high revs always. If I put it in gear the rpm drops to 1000 and it if it's not moving it stalls. Do you know where to look? Thank you

[@ifitsgotwheels]

It's possible your carb is already losing vacuum elsewhere otherwise I do not know why it would not increase the revs. I am not sure how you can check the vacuum other than looking for leaks, also check you have good earth too. Sorry not much help.

[@ferenctoth1801]

Hi there! First of all thanks a ton for the carb vids! I got an Audi 100 cc 1.8 from 1986 very similar to this golf, carb is the exact same. I checked the revs as you showed removing the pipe and it peaked at around 2200, though the idle at warm engine is a decent 850. Should I adjust that pin and pump the revs to 3000 anyways? Thanks for your comment.

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi I would not adjust it normally if things seem to be starting up/working/driving ok in cold, normal and hot conditions. If you do want to try though just make a note of your starting point so that if you do alter it by 3 turns on 1 screw and 4 on the other you know how many to turn it back by as the worst this to happen is you soon lose track of the number of turns then wish you hadn't messed with them as you can never get the settings back. So just make sure you mark and/or count as accurate as you can. Gutted as when finally knew how to do these settings got car running so sweet then last year it got wrote off as somebody crashed into it :(

[@Ubbenstein]

I have a Golf 1.6. one day it started idling fast when the engine was already warm and while driving in town. Yesterday, when I drove to store, maybe 10 min drive, the waxstat cover still felt quite cold to hand. Could it have been blocked in the midst of driving?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

With these pooburgs it could be anything. If the carb is not solid on the manifold which would suggest a splitting rubber, then I would suspect the vac pipes or waxstat. If the problem has since dissapeared again then I would put the waxstat at the top of the list as it could indeed be starting to play up. You can always give it a soak in some boiling water.

[@Ubbenstein]

Update, I had the intake manifold apart. The intake o-ring was completely swollen and shredded. Pieces of it had actually gotten into the waxstat and had clogged it pretty badly. I also renewed couple bad looking vacuum lines.

[@vwgolfmk2812]

Hello!! Thanks for videos !!!how can I cancel the automatic starter golf mk2 1.6 EZ?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi, I don't know, sorry. I just unscrew stuff and hope it goes back together better. I don't know about auto starters.

[@vwgolfmk2812]

Thaanks!!!! :)

[@peterlawrence9570]

Is it a 13mm nut on the back of that carburettor. Thanks

[@ifitsgotwheels]

I think it was, but honestly can't remember

[@peterlawrence9570]

@@ifitsgotwheels just tried it. A 13mm seems to fit. It's a tricky one since you can't see it, until you try to fit the spanner on it.

[@thanq5545]

Hello there! I don't know if you'll see this but my MK 2 golf 1.6 has a good idle but sometimes when im driving, when i push the clutch down to shift, the car dies. And sometimes when i push the clutch down it revs up to 2000 rpm until it has a gear in it. What could be the problem? It's very confusing because sometimes the car runs very well and acts like any other car but when i start playing with the clutch, it either revs up into 2000 rpms or just dies. I appreciate any input and great video! Thanks in advance!

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi. I have no idea! Are you sure this is clutch related and not down to your corresponding accelerator pedal actions? When these buggers rev upto 2000 I would normally be looking at the waxstat, as that will often send the idle to 2000-3000, you can put the waxstat in boiling water to help free up a sticking one (I do this here; kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnzdamyYeZd-gNE). Also cheap to consider is replacing your vac pipes (get some '3mm silicone vacuum hose' off ebay) as bad vacuum can screw up everything. Your carb should feel solid in place, if not your carb mount may be split and could the cause of your problems. I am just someone who works with what they can see and understand, beyond that the hidden stuff I know nothing about, so replace pipes if you have not done so before and clean and lube everything else, checking you have good earths too. Hopefully some simple low cost maintainance will give you some better running, but beyond that it starts to get beyond me like it does everyone else. I hope you can sort it soon. thanks.

[@thanq5545]

@@ifitsgotwheels I've changed the pipes but i'll definitely try everything else you mentioned. Thanks a lot for taking your time to answer, i appreciate it a bunch! Take Care.

[@seanmalcolm1240]

Will this work on 1.8 auto golf mk2 with the idle about 1200/1300rpm

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Yes I would do the same on the auto. The 1.8 is listed in Haynes as Fast idle 2800-3200, Idle 900-1000. but for auto it also says increased idle speed of 800 (does this mean when it is warm you can set the idle down to 800 I am not sure, but anyways your idle needs to come down.) make a note of all turns you make so you can always get back to your starting point, but I don't think you will need to as car will run better. Is your carb solid on the engine, it should be, if not it can be the rubber mount is split causing the extra high revs. If mount is good then pull vac pipe on back and see what you get. Enjoy.

[@seanmalcolm1240]

@@ifitsgotwheels hey buddy I tried to get the idle down and never made a difference I think there might be a vack leak some where

[@rasho16v16]

Greetings, what to do with this screw for idle adjusting 0:22 , for bigger revs do i need to screw it or to unscrew?

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi both the idle and fast idle, screw inwards to increase the revs.

[@dillee9988]

Good video, thanks.

[@Corto2995]

Shouldn't this be a 1.6 engine, because of the square Volkswagen cover over the carb? 1.8 monopoint had a different cover, more similar to 1.8i from Golf 3

[@ifitsgotwheels]

Hi it's a 1781cc. I think they only did them on the last couple of years on the Mk2 drivers.

[@Corto2995]

Maybe, cause I had 1.8 and he had different carb cover (air filter) than yours and my friend still has his 1.6 and it's just the same as the one in the video. I see that yours is later years from '90 to '92 so it can be the reason you mentioned. Nice video about the LEDs, but can you use different ones than the B8.3d you used? Cause in my country it's pretty hard to find one of those, but t5 is common thing

[@ifitsgotwheels]

yes this car has a few odd parts as it seems they were getting to the bottom of the parts bin. somethings have to be ordered the same as a 1.8 GTI, like the CV Joints otherwise you always end up getting wrong bits sent. Yes there are alternatives to the B8.3d LEDs, 8.5 might be similar, would not be sure of others, need to Google sizes & seek something similar, but I suppose anything 12volts that fits will surfice. Or just use ebay to order cheap from China if you can wait a couple of weeks. thanks.

[@Corto2995]

fuck china man, didn't ask you to set my car on fire :DDDD one more thing i wanted to ask you, the speedo.. in my country we use km/h but I have a chance to buy a speedo with mp/h which is rare in the Balkan states and kinda looks cool. so I was wondering if I put speedo with miles in my car, would it still run on miles or is there a way to set him to run on kilometers. i would like to reset it somehow cause mine has clock on the right and original 121 000 km so i would like to continue from there with a new speedo if that's possible

[@ifitsgotwheels]

I don't know anything about speedos sorry, never messed with them. Yet.

[@Visionery1]

Personally I would set the cold fast idle to be no faster than around 1,300, one shouldn't immediately rev a cold engine to 2,500 - 3,000, that's just poor design on Pierburg's part.