@@0x259a Thanks I've misread 3/4 as three quarters! Your help is most appreciated.

You're welcome

@@carsugarmodels no idea sorry. All the VW and carb cars we had were my youngest brother's , and we would rarely see him, and he's clueless when it comes to numbers. We have tried for years to get him to record his mileages and fill ups but he could never understand why you start off with a full tank rather than an empty one to calculate MPG, and we long since gave up trying to explain it. And he's never bothered as long as he can stick a tenner of fuel in! That's when he ever has a tenner! Totally clueless 😕

@@ifitsgotwheels Thanks for a quick reply. Well, I got changed all vacuum hoses on mine, membranes changed, the rubber gasket also. Car really goes great. It is 1.6 litter engine. When I turn the car on, it is in pretty high revs. I do not have an rpm clock, I can only hear that. Probably at 3000rpm. After some time it drops down to lower. So i t seems that carb works properly, but my consupmtion is approx 15 liters of petrol. It sounds pretty much to me!

sorry i do not have any codes, they usually came with the vehicles handbooks, nowadays you have to go back to the dealers or get an auto locksmith to obtain them

cualquier lado

I am not sure if this car had any manual method to reset the throttle position sensor or not, or if it was all just done automatically. On the Rover 820, 2 litre T-series engines though (also fitted to other rovers) the Stepper Motor can be reset at anytime. To do this simply turn the ignition on with the key, and then press the accelerator pedal 5 times in a row. On the 5th time you should hear the stepper motor clicking as it resets itself. (If you are in a noisey area, you may want someone else to listen or press the pedal for you).

@@mic2349 If you haven't got the code, and you no longer have the card or handbooks with a code, then you need the car dealers or an auto locksmith to obtain them for you, sorry!

Hi the VW Golfs we had all belonged to my brother but that was the only Pierburg one he had (as far as I am aware as I never touched one before) and it was the only carb I ever messed with (after things were getting so bad with the way the car was running I had to do something (and given his zero budget to do it with as usual!)) . Most of the info I used I got from here; www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0 unfortunately all the pics seemed to have gone on checking the link is still active just now. I am not sure I can help futher as everthing I messed with I have shown, and everthing else I have is as always just my best guess!

No sadly these ones were only programmed to close😢

Hi they usually came with the handbooks but are most often long since lost. The main dealers used to be the place to get them for free (with proof of i.d. and opwnership) but as the cars that used the systems have aged even most of the dealers got rid of the codes too! At one point the codes were available on ebay for £2, but the dealers seemed to get anyone selling them shut down (which was fair enough!). Now you have to find a dealer or autoelectrician that can still obtain codes from a trade only company that can supply them. A company called Hickleys are the only ones I know of now that can supply them to the trade, although not being in the trade, I have no idea of the costs involved.

In the handbooks, or at the dealers / auto electricians.

in your handbooks, or at the dealers

As the engine starts nice both hot and cold then i would not worry about the choke. In the summer time it will be open pretty much all the time anyway except on really cold mornings. In the past, before problems got too serious for me, I would simply have adjusted only the fast idle screw (thinking this was just The Idle screw). I would have just turned that in a half turn or turn, (clockwise from front of car) (making a note of this) and just adjusted a couple more times if needed to see if it went any better, which always seemed to work for me. Better that that is to use both idles as I have shown, although cars without a rev counter I understand makes this difficult. The other thing to try is to turn the dizzy cap on top of the distributor, as rotating the dizzy cap advances or retards the timing and can improve the idle. This is not always easy to do as the set screw that needs to be losened to allow the top part to rotate often becomes stuck over time! Ideally altering the timing at the dizzy cap should be done in conjuction with a timing gun pointed at the timing belt and markers, but can be done without just by ear or along with the rev counter. Adjusting at the dizzy cap, may when bringing down the idle, fix the running problems, if not the carb may still need adjusting afterwards. Just mark/count/write down any screw turns you make so that you can always revert back to where you started until you can fin the improvement that works for you. Best of luck.

Yes I would think so, I can't think of any reason why not, other than less chance of fan coming on whilst working on it.

@@ifitsgotwheels thanks for the answer

The codes were usually located on a credit card sized security card in with the handbooks. Without it, unfortunately the codes can only be got from main dealers or an auto locksmith now. Unless any owners club has their own lists, by obtaining them back in the day.

Hi, if the engine idle seems high then it probably is. For many years whilst we had this car and knowing zero about carbs for most of that time, the one adjustment I did make was to the fast idle screw (operated by the 3/4 point unit's peg. see; kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKWanZJ4Zq9oarcsi=A_wxnu2pQqhEON68). Obviously the rev counter on this vehicle made things easier, but I think we also did this on our previous 1.6 with no rev counter too. (most of that car's driving problems turned out to be engine mount related in the end, as the engine should be pretty solid in position and not shake freely when you try to shake it). For a while just adjusting the fast idle screw seemed to give us a better result. I do not think choke settings will be any/major cause as they are not needed once the car is warm. It was only in the last year we had the car when things were getting too bad that I had to look at the carb and see what else I could find out and fix (making the vids at the time), I used a seal repair kit, replaced vac pipes and mount, and boiled waxstat as you have seen, to get some improvements, but finding out and knowing more about the choke and screw settings did make a difference, between the car just running and the car running great. I always saw the fast idle screw as a simple way to make an adjustment, thinking this was the correct thing to turn (just thinking this was the slow idle setting screw, little did I know, but it seemed to work), always marking and recording my turns, but found in summer and winter times I was having to alter it. It turns out the (slow) idle screw is on the back of the carb (see; kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6iohmeHjb1olassi=tkqT_ZKZDjkz4HoQ) and even without a rev counter I think this is the setting I would try and adjust first to cure a fast idle now. Obviously with the difficult location the bolt head will be nigh on hard to mark so make sure count and turns you make and write them down so you can revert back if things do not improve. but I think if you just unscrew the bolt a little bit you may get the car running as you need. The one other place that I can think of that can be having effect, is the car's distributor. Under the distributor (dizzy) cap there will usually be a screw, or small nut/bolt, or two, that can be undone to allow the top of the distributor and rotor arm /dizzy cap part to rotate. This is best set using a timing gun connected to a spark plug lead and using a mark on the timing belt, but without a timing gun could also be set by ear alone. Again before messing with settings put a mark top and bottom on rotating bit of distributor, just so you know where you started, so you can line it back up in the same place again if needed, especially if you do not have a timing gun! Also as the distributors are seldomly ever moved the screws or bolts may not let you undo them in the first place, so it can be worth marking the dizzy and trying to undo them before spending time and money buying or borrowing a timing gun if you don't have one. Anyway don't be too afraid of trying to make any adjustments, I always was!

Great to hear! So happy to help

I don't know the answer to that one as I never had to replace any. Sorry.

If your car starts it's the right code! If you haven't got any code, and you no longer have the card or handbooks with a code, then you need the car dealers or an auto locksmith to obtain them for you

Ok ill check in the papers

Hi this would most likely be caused by a faulty speed sensor. Normally you would look at the gear box on a vehicle to find the speed sensor, but it seems these vehicles (where a speed sensor goes may just be blanked off or have nothing and it) the speedo may just run off the front abs sensor(s) instead (nsf?). I am not sure how you can check the abs out though. Obviously if the abs light stays on then the two things could be linked. but otherwise I don't know how you can check what's working, so it may just be worth giving the reluctor ring and abs sensor gap a clean up when taking a look.