VW Sunbug crankshaft end play and rear main seal installation

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Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 10

@benkanobe7500 Жыл бұрын

This is not for everyone, but........ I have taken tired bottom ends and measured the bearing ONLY "end play" and then checked the combined bearing end play PLUS crankshaft end play much like you did when you were getting your 0.040+ inch measurement. I subtracted the bearing end play from the total to just get the crankshaft end play. Once I calculated just the crankshaft end play I then added 3 (you must always use a minimum of three) factory shims that numerically gave my 0.004 inch calculated crankshaft end play and ignored the additional end play from the worn bearing thrust surfaces. Every engine builder will rightfully tell you this is nuts and for good reason. But, I did new top ends on countless bottom ends that had to have their endplay set as I described (above) that went on for many, many years and 30,000+ thousands of miles (I lost track of folks, but many years later they talked about how their bug was still going or the person they sold it to said it was still going). So, if you want to take some risk and not rebuild the bottom end (maybe you dropped a valve seat, just lost compression in one or more cylinders, had a massive oil leak, .......), the method described here worked for me and never didn't work. Follow-up note: All engines were stock (excluding things like extractor exhaust, aftermarket air filters, ratio rockers with stock cams, crank pulleys changed to smaller, 87mm slip-ins, slightly increased compression ratio, .009 distributor, ...), had valves adjusted per factory recommendation, and were in an OK state of tune including correct mixture n timing. Not raced, driven.

@scrapdaddysgarage5027 Жыл бұрын

Well said! This engine had a top end rebuild in the 1980’s. Sat for 30 years, got resealed and resurrected and is still running. Thanks for your feedback 👍

@bsmith8564 2 жыл бұрын

Engine out flywheel off and you think after seeing that messed up bearing its OK to button it back up? I wouldn't roll those dice.

@scrapdaddysgarage5027 2 жыл бұрын

It was running and driving before but leaking a lot from the main seal. A full rebuild wasn’t in the budget. It’s still running and driving over a year later, fingers crossed hopefully it will stay that way for a while. Thanks for watching I appreciate the feedback.

@bsmith8564 2 жыл бұрын

@@scrapdaddysgarage5027 Shows how good the design is. I understand budget and maybe the case was junk already.

@alistairclyne9362 Жыл бұрын

@@scrapdaddysgarage5027 I'm in exactly the same situation ... end play and thrust bearing rotating slightly around the crankshaft, but the engine was running fine the last time it was on the road, which was when I bought the car a long time ago. However, when I put it back together I removed the metal gasket (with the 4 dowel holes) that was present coz the new flywheel had a rubber O-ring (apparently they're not both meant to be present in the same engine). I can't remember if the old flywheel had an O-ring but I've still got it so should be able to find out. I also re-shimmed to try to reduce the end play. The car's back on the road and has covered 100 miles so far. After about 15 miles on each trip the clutch appears to make a noise when the pedal's pressed ... but not every time, it's definitely there but it's kinda intermittent! Friends have suggested it's the clutch throw out bearing, but I think something's going on with the end float issue. Sooner or later I'll drop the engine again and replace the original shims and metal gasket as a first attempt to keep the engine running through the summer. In the winter when the car's off the road I'm intending to to a total strip down and line bore ... to hopefully save this 1776cc engine! Very helpful video .... thanks!!