VW T4 Sliding Door Step Rust Repair Using Hammerite Kurust & Paint

In this video I show how I repair early signs of rust which are showing through around the bottom of the sliding door step area using Hammerite Kurust rust inhibitor (See links below). The drainage channel around the sliding door runner was full of years of rubbish which must have started to slowly corrode the metal work. Thankfully the metal is still solid and the rust is mostly surface rust which I grind back with a flap disc where access was possible, in areas where the grinder would not reach, I use wire brush drill attachments to remove as much effected metal as possible. Once I remove the rusty metal, I apply the Hammerite Kurust liberally to the area and letting the kurust carry out its reaction. Once the Hammerite kurust has reacted and dried, I then paint the entire area with Hammerite black smooth paint which makes it look really nice even though its going to be covered with a plastic step
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[@mopedinthemalverns6661]

I use this on my T25 and if you do at least 3 coats the rust gives up. It does come back very very slightly about a year later BUT you can just put another coat on and it seems to just stop. Any other coating / underseal / paint will trap water. Then it will rust badly Also - don't strip off all the rust - take all the loose stuff off and Kurust (sounds like Cure-Rust) will make a rust-proof converted layer in conjunction with the rust. Bare metal will just have to rust first. I've tried every possible combination of paints etc / cleaning down to bare metal that you can think of and No.1 is don't take it down to bare metal - use the rust against itself! Anywhere you have rust-converted just leave unpainted if you can - then you can see instantly if rust comes back and just add another coat. Paint it and you have provided the rust with a secret out-of-sight home it can do its evil work...

[@crpth1]

Tip: When waiting for the excess rust converter to dry/cure. Simply get your brush and spread the excess evenly over the remaining area. Dry faster and get better even coverage. Thumbs up for the video. ;-)

[@meatmanifesto]

Great video, just used Kurust on my Iveco amazing stuff :)

[@barry-cq4xg]

nice job on the door step and underdoor. It looks like you will need to tackle some nasty looking rust on the undeframe of the van. Next video perhaps. Good video well explained.

[@T4TipsGuides]

Looking good! One of the first jobs I did when I got my T4 11 years ago was to clean out that channel and put about half a tin of lithium grease in there. The well where the bottom roller sits when the door is closed catches a lot of grit and stones on the outside sprayed up from the near side front wheel. I have just ground that back and treated it with kurust, epoxy primer, seam sealer, epoxy primer again and then black stone chip, should be good for another 20 years!

[@garsr6]

Worst thing you can do is grease that channel. The grease attracts crap and also the roller will slide on the grease and get clogged up and stop rolling, eventually leading to the flattened roller talked about below. Last time i had replaced my roller it had worn down to the metal evenly as i don't grease the channel. Keep it clean and dry and it will stay smooth for years. Go and look at a brand new vw van sliding door, no grease in there. The roller is on a bearing which needs replaced if it starts getting rough.

[@T4TipsGuides]

garsr6 My van was 8 years old when I bought it and after 8 years there was no paint left where the lower roller runs, cleaning and smearing the area with grease has stopped the rust, roller runs fine and the wheel is wearing evenly, under the grease it's in very good condition. Still on original rollers after almost 19 years.

[@w.farioli1576]

Grease and oil are great to keep moisture away. Where there is grease/oil, there will be no rust!

[@T4TipsGuides]

@@johnpiggBrewBoys I have owned my T4 for 14 years now, the area where the lower roller runs is still in excellent condition, I would say it is in better condition than any other van I have seen, the original roller is perfectly round with minimal wear, it is now 21 years old, there is no further wear to the metal other than what was there when I first bought the van. Most of the vans I have seen have rust in this area, some quite bad, mine is in excellent condition, I put this down to the grease. The roller works fine and does not slide so all is good.

[@mickpurcell272]

Job well done 👍👍👍👍

[@jaggass]

A Dremel is great for getting into tight spots.

[@VANFLIPPINGTASTIC]

great job . i like using Hammerite Kurust .much better

[@Bobby8270]

Hi. Did u take the sliding door off? Thanks.

[@jemmace2586]

Me again, I've withdrew my comment and not because of the flak i got for it, it was getting a bit sad that people thought it good to line me up and after I apologised months ago too! fkin idiots lol. I hope you're well in these strange times and wish you all the best! P.S I use the same treatment for my car, after applying it then use Galva out of a spray can. it always works really well! The Galva spray acts as a sacrificial layer and does not effect paint going on top of it either, I've used it on sils, brake disc cover plates and wings or fenders so outer cosmetic panels too, works really well so try it if you haven't already. Subbed by the way! I will behave, I promise! :)

[@davidbarnes241]

Liked your magnanimous post. The tip on the sacrificial paint is fully correct, I use one or two coats of KuRust after brushing and grinding, then apply the sacrificial galvanising paint. All this followed by one or two coats of smoothrite in aerosol form and then a matching paint if required. Seems to outlast many other treatments I’ve seen used by others.

[@user-oj5pd2hj9o]

learnt from experience that rust converters don't actually work, if you sand it back, you will find that the rust is still there, they only hide the rust for a while and only able to convert very minimal surface rusts, they also don't bond on clean metal, best way i've found is clean as much out as possible, use a rust remover rather than converter and than paint the rest with oxide primer. much longer lasting

[@ratgreen]

Agree, I'm now not a fan of the milky rust converters, as if you scratch it the red powdery rust is still there, and rust will come through it if its left as is for a few days, which shows its not doing much. I prefer to use a phosphoric acid spray to try dissole the rust / convert it to iron phospate (remember to rinse off after an hour or so with water to nutralize the acid). Then finish with zinc phosphate (por15) rust converter, and paint. I was using something called fortress metal paint which I bought from b&q a few years ago but theyve stopped selling it, it was bloody great. I'm not a fan of red oxide as it can camouflage rust.

[@nrcsean]

very helpful, thanks!

[@TheCampervanBuilder]

Glad to be of help

[@oakashthorn5714]

What a massive difference that is….

[@TheCampervanBuilder]

yes it tidied it up nicely

[@ifell3]

Do you have an update on this? I'm only asking as I brought another branded rust converter with not very pleasing effects for a radiator. Months later the rust was back.

[@TheCampervanBuilder]

don't have this van anymore so no updates to give

[@sugra5816]

I use hammerite a lot my self but I notice on the underside of vehicles or areas exposed to the elements the rust comes back through. How it your job hold up?any signs of rust coming through?

[@TheCampervanBuilder]

The only real cure for rust is to replace the metal, this is more a stop gap treatment. Yes it started to show again about a year later

[@jamiethomas8629]

very informative video. Exactly what I'm Looking to do with mine. How is it looking now mate

[@TheCampervanBuilder]

I don’t have the van anymore but it was still good when I sold it

[@StikiFing4z]

can you use this on the parts like tyre rods and stuff?

[@TheCampervanBuilder]

It can be used anywhere but it’s not a magic cure for rust, if it’s bad, cut it out or replace is best

[@thunderchild2237]

Do you rinse off or leave to dry full stop I have Hammerite rust remover gel for bonnet spots

[@TheCampervanBuilder]

wipe excess and leave to dry, just don't expect it to do miracles

[@thunderchild2237]

@TheCampervanBuilder So basically my rust remover gel is same as what you have used ?

[@richwilliams4482]

Hi mate - about to do this myself next weekend - how has it held up over a couple years?

[@TheCampervanBuilder]

It's starting to show back through a bit now but still far better than it was, I could grind it back and redo it again but the only way to be 100% sure it won't come back would be to replace the metal

[@richwilliams4482]

@@TheCampervanBuilder Thanks mate - I went ahead and did it and it's far far better. Used VacTan to neutralise the rust, then covered with spray hammerite. Will do another coat when I can as it took a while to dry, but it's far better. Even if it's only extended its life by a couple years.

[@vanagon1966]

@@TheCampervanBuilder hammerite and curerust are both rubbish products long term.. i did my step the same as you about 4 years ago..used rust bullet paint . just cleaned off the rust then 2 coats of rust bullet. sprayed back the original colour then wax oiled the areas and inside the channel. i stripped back the step today to re wax oil it and its still as good as the day i did it no rust has come back.. you can coat straight over the rust with rust bullet it seals it air tight and kills the rust it wont come back.. if you had coated all the areas with wax oil after you painted it the rust would not have come back..

[@stevengreen5038]

Only fix is to cut that out! It WILL come back.

[@roboboy9787]

No way did kurust achieve that result!

[@TheCampervanBuilder]

what you see in the video is how it came out after grinding the rust and applying the kurust and painting it, I don't know how to do camera trickery

[@JeanLouisBourdon]

good topic, and general video. but you do repeat yourself way too much. you repeat yourswlf. you repeat yourself. you do.

[@TheCampervanBuilder]

lol yes, I realised when watching it back, I think its because when there are gaps between filming, I seem to recap things, forgetting the video skips the gap... Something to bear in mind for future videos I think as thats definitely something to bear in mind, so bear it in mind I shall

[@Anoymus985]

Camper Conversion hi grait vid..can i jst ask iv got abit of rust appearing on my cars fuel pipe.iv cleand off most off it with a wire brush an need to protect it from further rust..would this treatment work with the hammer paint to as its the fuel pipe sir..eny info would be highly apreshiated

[@kevinmcfarlane344]

U knob jean borbon

[@jamesward5721]

Never used such junk paint in my life. Today a customer handed me a can of Hammerite they wanted used on their repair. I've used loads of brands of paint over the years, I have several favorites - seldom if ever have I come across such absolute pish as this over-hyped junk. Garbage, Absolute garbage,