Walmart Bike to Project Bike - Decision Process, Reasoning and Hidden Costs

[@bhismanambiar]

I got a big box bike (A Lerun Evo Race) as a gift. It was heavy, came with Shimano Flatface and a 16 inch sizing. After some inspiration from KevCentral, now it has a 780mm Wake comp bars, a Megarange freewheel, a Shimano Alivio rear derailleur, short stem, hydraulic brake (only the rear :D) and an IXF 1 by crank set on the way. Where I live, parts are dirt cheap and I've only spent less than $80. It does trails no problem, but no jumps for sure. However, the amount of stuff learnt by working on bikes is priceless. I now know how to replace every single part on a bike and properly adjust derailleurs. A skill I probably wouldn't have learnt if i had a more expensive bike to begin with.

[@daddyshrek2295]

the stuff about learning how to work on bikes is so true when you buy an expensive bike, everything is done for you

[@jameshendricks875]

He’s back. Man, I didn’t think you were coming back. So glad to hear you again.

[@christiandruan]

@Sony Pony lol nah

[@chadb2077]

Sony Pony thatd be a pretty garbage motorbike😂 i just traded a fourwheeler for a bike and i dont regret a single thing

[@TheCharillz23]

@Sony Pony bought a $2k mtb sold my beta300rr race edition, boots gear and all 2months later.. so much nicer not needing to waste 2 days to go race for 2hours...

[@BlackWolfessUSCM]

I say this to a lot of people i meet on the trail who look at my upgraded walmart bike funny, "I only did this because I wanted to do this and I Love the frame on this bike and I'm comfortable with this bike" If you want to upgrade a bike, do it, if you want to buy a preupgradedp remium bike do it. as long as you enjoy the ride and the work and proejct that's all that matters.

[@davesimmons8640]

I'm with you, Snowball. Ride what you like, and have fun doing it. Isn't that the point of the whole thing, after all?

[@simrigpc27b12]

I'm usually blowing right past the guys on Norco's with my Hydroform for them to even notice what I'm riding 😂😂

[@SonjaTheDork]

Welcome back, hope things have been going okay during the hiatus.

[@XGaming1]

Wait what happened?

[@joshuakashima6336]

A nice KevCentral video before I go to bed

[@paulvargas239]

The big box bike king is back.

[@tomherron4334]

So glad you’re back!

[@purplegarage05]

Its awesome to see you back kev! Ive been bingeing a bunch of your older videos because of lockdown. Any content from you is always appreciated

[@lukesfishin7910]

Omg kev I missed you, glad your back bud and good luck on the trails stay safe ❤

[@rkevin187]

Glad you're back! Cannot wait for more videos! Hope all is well!!

[@boracay12]

THE MAN from motel 6 . WE WILL keep THE LIGHTS ON for you .

[@gregnixon1296]

You are spot on.

[@simrigpc27b12]

Building out a big box bike (as long as it's a decent platform to start with, *looking at you Hyper* , doesn't even have to be about being budget friendly. It's just great fun and the best thing is that you learn how a bike works! And it tranfers to any other bike out there once you understand. Really can't thank you enough for what you do here, I've been enjpying the hell out of these projects and riding them! Also, if that Hydroform ends up being someones prize, they will ve very very happy with it. Still bummed they're gone 😢

[@ulrich_badmecanique]

A dumb trick I learned after taking appart a 70s bike is using the "frame" as a wrench. you put your bottom bracket removal's tool in a vice with space around it, and put the bike on top. If you slowly turn the bike it will easily come loose. Now obviously its easier if you only got a frame but its still safer than using a breaker bar imo

[@adambcvg]

Same as removing a freehub!

[@unclefreddieDied]

Ulrich... that's a great idea! was gonna recommend a breaker bar plus a cheater bar... I've never done a bottom bracket before, are they reverse threads?

[@unclefreddieDied]

@SLAY 503 hahaha!!!!

[@unclefreddieDied]

@SLAY 503 you SLAY me!

[@ulrich_badmecanique]

@@unclefreddieDied I'd advise using that as a "last solution" But yes, one of the thread on this type of bottom brackets is always reversed. Have a look at Park tools tutorial its great

[@davesimmons8640]

Welcome back, Kevin! Good news about your dad!! If upgrading bikes is someone's thing, good for them! If buying a "super-bike" from a bike shop is someone's thing, good for them, too! Ride what you like! Love your videos! Keep up the good work! Again, glad to hear about your dad!!!!

[@ChrisPrieto]

Thanks for your fast reply and so honest, yes, you know what's going on in the bike world.

[@markc6207]

I have one of those Kobalt impact guns. Its a beast. Worth the money. Takes rusted together stuff off my jeep and old jeep parts I get.

[@uvlax]

Kev, two items: 1. Would enjoy seeing a how-to of taking off a bottom bracket and installing the IXF crankset. 2. Have you tried an oval chainring on any of your bikes, yet? It's absolutely improved my riding.

[@vagabond-yj8pn]

It’s all in your head.

[@shanettrent1311]

I like the oval ring I have one on my fs thinking bout putting one on the ht too

[@vagabond-yj8pn]

@@morganwilliams2863 Nice cranberries reference 🎸

[@meancheeto]

@@morganwilliams2863 what's in your head, in your head

[@purplegarage05]

I actually just did a video of installing an ixf if you want to check it out

[@Kaufeetimevideo]

I like the how to videos. They give me a advanced notice. What to expect while I disassemble and tools needed

[@MegaMilesteg]

Really glad you are back!

[@foblife8904]

Steel into aluminum with out anti-seize will do it

[@simrigpc27b12]

100% Guaranteed.

[@dirtlifemagazine]

I was going to type the same thing.

[@unclefreddieDied]

@@dirtlifemagazine yup... same here

[@TheCharillz23]

Needs a breaker bar

[@lucaschase8661]

@@TheCharillz23 I was just going to say that. I'm surprised he took it to a bike shop before trying a breaker bar, or a breaker bar and a pipe extension. Surely enough force could be applied to break the tension.

[@adambcvg]

Good to see you back, hope you and your family are all keeping well 👍

[@crazy8sdrums]

If you got long arms, aim for wider handlebars. You can cut the bar down if it is too long, but you can't put it back on if it is too short. A shorter stem will change your body positioning, more upright. I preferred that, others might not. The cranks and bottom bracket on my Schwinn was also a real PITA to remove and I just about broke myself in two doing it...but I managed it without any powertools. Just a breaker bar + a wrench. Welcome back Kev!

[@jeremymyers8105]

Just picked up a Nishiki Pueblo to build up. First thing is a 1x conversion and dumping the twist shifter. Love the channel!

[@lollibirdy5136]

I know this video is old but im so happy that i found your channel, I want to get into mountain biking and trail riding but the up front cost is so intimidating where everything on reddit and youtube is saying its a $900-$2000 cost just to see if you even like the sport/hobby. I've always been a big fan of building my own stuff (i.e. computers, cars, etc) and i like being able to find a good foundation and build off of that when i have the funds available. Thank you for taking people like me into mind!

[@sarclmbr]

Welcome back, we all need a break but you were missed. Can’t wait to see what you have in store for your project comp! I saw that teaser of the rear gearing!!

[@aussie1ben]

I have always removed bottom brackets by placing the bb tool in a vice and using the frame as leverage to undo it. So far I have had 100% success rate.

[@MGTZR037]

electrolysis of dissimilar metals will do that. very common in automotive applications to use a type of barrier (grease or a gasket)

[@artc1808]

Great new video Good to see you back! My Hyper is running awesome.

[@timothy7768]

Welcome back Kev, glad to hear your dad is doing well.. can't wait see the up and coming videos..

[@TheNAMELESSHER0]

Welcome back, hope you have a project 2020 Schwinn boundary coming soon

[@donhackett9983]

I had the boundary for a bit, but ended up taking it back bc I wasn’t comfortable with the 29”. It was a nice bike. I wanted to keep it… I just ordered the medium Axum. I hope it works.

[@donnovicki9771]

Glad you're back.

[@josephlivinglife5547]

Hello 👋🏽 KevCentral, I have never seen anyone who passionately explain in great detail upgrades values of bikes how to save money and bills such beautiful color combination bikes big box bikes ebikes you are the best at what you do, I am not discrediting any other KZbin big bucks bike builder, thank you for such informative videos I have purchased a mongoose dolomite, I will build I watch as many videos as I can of yours I’m beginning to find a different color handle and risers, and stems different color bike pedals hydraulic brakes bolts disc thank you for your time and effort like many of your subscribers I support your community again you are the best....

[@KevCentral]

Thanks for the very nice comment 👍🏼

[@Fister_of_Muppets]

Can't wait to see the 2020 Al Comp project

[@fernandolee6510]

Awesome! I love the Hydroform. I'm from Guatemala and It took me 3-4 months to find the Hydroform on Facebook Marketplace. Bought it used but the Idea is using it as a project bike like you did Kev.

[@amyfogarty6882]

Most Definitely looking forward to seeing a video of all the nut busting torque of that new craftsman impact wrench🔧🤗

[@seagrave7336]

Yeaa! Kev, great you are back! Pedaling my late model Ranger on the local bike trails for cardio. Kinda looks like an Aluminum Comp.

[@MissingLinkMTB]

Plenty of people will tell you just save and buy the bike later. However, many of us know that's not how life works plenty of times. I might only have $250 and am just unable to save more due to "life interfering" or because I can't justify the initial expense (if maybe a first bike). Channels like yours showcase those upgrade-worthy bikes and state the many reasons why. With this info, it's going to get more people into the sport when they can get in on the cheap and upgrade how their checkbook allows at a later date.

[@m.m6390]

Finally a new video! one of my favorite channels!

[@dylankillin318]

I love this channel man, it inspired me to start biking and even start up my own small KZbin channel keep doing what you’re doing Kev

[@SHWELL11]

I attached the final bits to my "Project Ripsaw" yesterday and I am in love with it. I have some pricey bikes in my collection, but the Ripsaw has been so much fun to upgrade and ride.. New Pedals, New Seat/Post, New Bars/Stem, New Rotors, New Hydro Brakes, and New Grips.. Still Considering a suspension Fork and Chainring upgrade, but it feels great as is..

[@KevCentral]

Congrats on the build!

[@justdoit381]

Amazing info on you channel! I know this is an older video, but I am just soaking it all in. Turned 50 last year and really started to get into biking on paved trails and dirt roads. This year looking to put something together on a budget to try the local Mountain Bike trails in my area. Did not want to spend the big dollars yet on a name brand bike till I have a chance to see if that kind of riding is for me. Thanks for a great channel with well presented info!

[@noawestfall9284]

i would love to see you getting the bb off the new schwinn, I love all your videos!

[@Roudter]

Hey brother...great stuff. (like the house) For the lower bracket - Harbor freight 'breaker bar' $20 (i think)...Superior even to the Kobalt impact - and simple. Or, a regular 1/2 ratchet with a pipe...Just my 2¢

[@HanSolo__]

Good to see you back. :) I ride mountains with 800mm bar and light flat trauls 74.0mm

[@richardrahadi]

I already did, the only original part left on my FS XC is the frame, everything else have been upgraded, i believe in the range of 1 year. Also glad that your dad have gotten better/healthy now.

[@BruceChastain]

glad to see ya back. I don't think the wide bars are as critical as most think, I rode with 580mm for a long while before going a little wider, yeah I like it a bit wider but old 580 and 620s work okay.

[@KevCentral]

I used to prefer narrow bars as that’s what I had ridden, then I started going wider (at points too wide) and I feel uncomfortable with anything too far under 700

[@seanc6128]

Glad your dad is ok, I think maybe the dissimilar metals of the frame and that cup might cause them to get stuck together almost like they're cold welding together.

[@DaveCM]

I just found your channel today. And for some reason, I am at work and have had your videos playing nonstop for over 5 hours! (It is a slow day.) I find them entertaining even though I am an avid cyclist who will be doomed to ride most of the bikes you review in Hell for eternity as punishment. I love your review style and your honesty. I even got the idea to buy the Amazon e-bike for my wife so she will at least get out and ride the neighborhood or greenway with me.

[@edgarpadilla9033]

Yay finally... I have an al comp so Im Excited

[@antonoudenhoven7573]

Nice to see a video again on this channel

[@boblong967]

The return of the king

[@adkmtb5046]

Great to see you back, thank you for the content!

[@juliogonza]

You should use a breaker bar... for the bottom brackets... in my job we use impacf guns and have breaker bars, when the bolts dont want to loose we use the breaker bar...

[@philrowland8079]

Glad your back, regards to your dad. Your channel has inspired my own purchase and ongoing Boundary upgrade. Any direct dissimilar metal contact will start galvanic response. Agree with FOB life on anti-seize but then use lubricated torque spec.

[@G0K3001]

Hey Kev! Thinking bout you yesterday! Good to gave you back!

[@vmoutsop]

1/2" Breaker bar from HF and then use a tube off a HF Jack as a cheater bar and you will have all the torque you need to break the seal and get the bracket to start turning and then finish off with the impact wrench.

[@ulrich_badmecanique]

Yeah but no, these tools are crap and slip off if they get any angles on them. It quickly gets annoying when you go too long and just end up mashing up the tooth inside. I'd say a torque wrench is the maximum size you can use "safely" before its impossible to keep it straight

[@vmoutsop]

Ulrich - Use whatever equipment from whomever company makes you happy, the point is to use a breaker bar to turn just enough to beak initial hold

[@sheldonking4022]

The primary issue with the bottom bracket cups is usually galvanic corrosion, not the installation torque. If the steel cup is threaded at the factory dry (no grease), then it will weld itself into the housing (only on aluminum frames).

[@Pmaloneyjr]

I had the same issue with the bottom bracket on my wife’s Aluminum Comp. I had to have her hold the tool in place while I put my full 190 pounds on a breaker bar to get it loose. My Taff wasn’t as bad. I was able to get it loose on my own but was still overly tight.

[@richrider5884]

Glad to see you're back making vids. Hope all is well.. I was just recently gifted a HYPER explorer 29 that needs alot of TLC. I figure this would be the perfect project bike. The plan is going old school mullet 26-29. Front suspension was shot so that will be the first item on the list (front end) and can we quill stem. Then BB. It too is shot.

[@KevCentral]

Congrats on the bike

[@BenjaminSmith2]

I've had good luck with threading a bolt and washer into the bottom bracket spindle to hold the tool. Then using a long wrench (or breaker bar with a crow's foot) to loosen the cups. It's a lot cheaper than using an impact wrench and is less likely to damage the splines of the tool or the cups.

[@stevencole7331]

My $ 900, 2 year bike I added a 100mm budget dropper for $ 79 . It was heavy but works flawlessly . I added a 11/46 budget cassette for $ 46 corresponding with my added 28 tooth singe chain ring for $16 downsizing from a 30 tooth . This gave me way better long duration climbing ability . I added a bike pump for $ 20 . I even got some shoes from walmart for $ 13 which had a completely flat sole on the bottom that the pedal pegs do not tear up as the rubber is hard so a good platform for flat pedals . My only expensive part that was added is the oversize platform pedals that were a $ 100 but my son bought me them for a birthday and they are nice but I would have never bought them because of cost . I have replaced a few chains . I installed one new set of brake pads that are semi metallic which seems to hold up well . My rotors dont recommend metallic but I felt semi would be fine and it appears to be .Budget tires have been a problem as they are struggling in my rocky terrain . Also going budget tubeless has been a trial and error finding an affordable way to do that which may cost a bit more upfront to experiment For me the cost has to be less than what I would pay for a tube . So I made the bike heavier but thats not a big deal as performance is improved . Upgrading as you go along is a good approach but cost of tools have to be part of the equation .To keep it worth it you have to do the work yourself but the upfront cost for tools can get pricey . You may want to do a video on a budget direction on tools , maybe tires as some other content

[@thatonenerd5318]

Im glad you're back

[@pagandogg]

I just started fixing a old rusted Titan Punisher bicycle after sitting in my garage for few years. Just trying to bring it back to life for fun.

[@captainchipowen5184]

Hey Kev, love your videos! I ride a Schwinn Bonified 29er that I have FULLY upgraded. The frame and front wheel are the only stock parts! To remove the bottom bracket pieces I turn the bike upside down on the floor and use a 1/2" braker bar with an extension of a 24" piece of aluminum pipe on it. Still an "Umpf", but, it will brake loose.

[@KevCentral]

I don’t even try anymore. I’ve converted to 100% use of a cordless impact driver to get them off

[@carloshinojosa8787]

Grease !! It’s commonly known that even expensive bikes don’t get put together with grease . That’s why all good bike shops completely disassemble every bike then rebuild before handing over to consumer . Just listening to you casually twist that BB in all dry at the end is like fingernails on chalkboard to me. Anyways for some reason I’m hooked on your channel:) thanks .

[@luigiprovencher]

You should do a video on sizing the parts for replacement or upgrades.

[@devildoglcpl]

The Box, Promax and Tektro mechanical disks work pretty ok. They come on some fairly high end dirt jumpers and some mid-level trail bikes. And, they are all less expensive then hydros.

[@devildoglcpl]

Sometimes, steel will bond to aluminium. It happens a lot with steel spokes and alloy nipples.

[@KevCentral]

👍🏼

[@tarstarkusz]

That is exactly what I was thinking. When these bikes are older, you just won't be able to change the BB.

[@ulrich_badmecanique]

It does, but not on nothing that new. I took appart early 2000s and late 90s aluminium bikes with the same style of bottom brackets and never any trouble to take them off with a simple ratchet. I'm wondering if they aren't using so kind of heavy bond loctite

[@devildoglcpl]

@@ulrich_badmecanique No grease will speed up the bonding process greatly. I've broken spokes months old trying to true with an alloy nipples and steel spoke. If you think about it, trying to torque that heavy with steel into aluminum, you would just pull the threads right out.

[@ulrich_badmecanique]

@@devildoglcpl yeah but that's an all other discussion. Plus the spoks end tend to rust quickly even on something new. Mine are completely frozen in place if i ever bend a wheel I'm in for a new set lol

[@bendunbar8334]

I think buying frames and choosing the parts you want over a while is pretty good. As long as you have a bike to ride in the mean time

[@harrygrimley4352]

Missed you very much. Welcome back.

[@billsomerset238]

Welcome back and I would like to see how good that craftsman impact is.

[@jodygluck4601]

I was thinking about buying the al comp, because it looked like a rest bike to build, but the bike shortage made me look a different avenue. I was talking guy at work who has a few bikes and I asked him if he wanted to sell any of them, he told me that he had a medium 2016 Specialized Rockhopper 29 and even though I’m about 5’5” I bought it. It’s used but it has duel hydraulic brakes and some other additional stuff put on it. I really had my heart set on the Schwinn al comp, they just weren’t out there. I am however thinking about going two gears on the front, but I’ll have to research it. Thanks for all the information you put out for us, it’s really helpful.

[@KevCentral]

That’s great 👍🏼. Congrats on the new bike!

[@WOLFTICKVIDEOS]

I can feel all of the relentless questioning of why you don't just buy a $1000 dollar bike in your explanation hahaha. We can relate brother, and we appreciate you trying to explain this. Very happy to hear that your Dad is doing well. Thanks for the video, and be safe.

[@qray7873]

Yayyyyy kev is back!

[@pbales8951]

I'm glad your father is back to good health.

[@brocluno01]

My first consideration is weight vs suspension travel. I usually go with a used Fox air shock out back and maybe a used Manitou R-7 air fork. The big box steel spring forks are usually in excess of 15 lbs, some as much as 19 lbs. A good used air fork will bring that down to 7~8 lbs. And that is a lot on the front end. Once I have a usable/tunable suspension, I will look at other stuff. The goal on a full suspension bike, for me, is always sub-30 LBS in ready to go mode. Hard to do, and I often end up at 31 or so. But it's still a goal.

[@PhoenixFarhan]

Bought a schwinn taff from Walmart after I saw your video and it's doing great 😁

[@KevCentral]

Congrats!

[@themondoone6316]

I changed out the crank on the aluminum comp in my hotel room. As I remember I ran into the same problem. I eventually got it but it was a biotch.

[@unclefreddieDied]

how-to videos are the best!

[@Gamebit450]

Good trick is to use a bolt to hold the tool onto bottom bracket as you use a breaker bar on it . Then you don't have to worry about the tool moving.

[@Gamebit450]

Oh and a heat gun can help as well.

[@KevCentral]

How do you get the breaker bar into the tool with a bolt running through everything?

[@Gamebit450]

@@KevCentral Sorry I meant crescent wrench and a pipe. I call my pipe my breaker bar lol. This is what I had to do with my first MTB from 1994 when I rebuilt it this last winter.

[@jf8534]

I concur. Buy the best you can afford and upgrade as you can afford to. This applies to big box and lbs bikes.

[@mattymatt7676]

I had the same exact problem with a bottom bracket I Installed on my trek 3 years ago I didn't have a torque wrench to make sure it was good and tight so I stood on my crescent wrench and just replaced all of it a couple months back man I could not get that thing to break loose for the life of me I got the non drive side off fairly easy but the drive side just wouldn't budge luckily my landlord owns a bike shop he took it up there and fought with that thing for about 15 minutes he finally got it off and ran a tool through there to clean the threads out but it was a pain in the you know what... luckily I replaced all of it with ifx and I really love the crank set awesome for the price

[@singletona082]

Looking at my Huffy parkside and trying to figure at sort of upgrades I can sprinkle on over a series of months. Priority 1. Megarange This is non negotiable, as I ride on grass and ruts, not the smooth level pavement this bike seems geared for. Tires. Has street tires on. They work, but I suspect knobbies would work better. Saddle isn't bad, probably not good for trail, but it is gonna be fine for awhile. Pedals and grips are on the replace list. No idea if the cramkset should be replaced as it's already one by. What would upgrading get me? Stem and bars: The parkside has a quill stem. Do I need to swap to a threadless to get a new bar? Can I get away with keeping quill or do I need to go threadless? I do want to swap to trigger shift at some point, but making cockpit changes also makes me look at 'while I am here what fork could I benefit from given hardtail and I am not going to Whistler. This is a fitness and casual bike. I could keep iterating, but at what point do upgrades go from 'that makes sense' to the bike ewuivilant of putting a lift kit on a truck that will never see a spec of dirt'? Lastly: I have the parkside SE. So sage green frame. Leaves me wondering what accent colors I should go with.

[@Max-ek6nn]

Glad to see the hydroform again! one thing I'm not sure has been mentioned though is that with a new lower headset cup, the hydroform can take a tapered steerer fork. It has a oversized straight headtube (that's why it's so much wider then the stem) with a cane creek EC-44 lower cup, a tapered fork will drop in. I don't own a hydroform, but I work at a trek shop and the marlin series of bikes has the same style headtube. Another thing I noticed, is that there is some room between the seat tube and linkage that would lead me to believe that you could mount a taller shock giving you more travel, this would make the rear taller. But I think that could be counteracted by a higher travel fork, this will make the bike taller, but I think the bike could be brought back down to it's proper height with a 27.5+ wheelset. If my hunch is correct, this could be set up as a (maybe) 140/130mm bike to rival something like a Fuel EX-7 (without the knock-block lol) Sorry for the paragraph, but I noticed this stuff with all the close up shots of it in the video, if nothing else I hope this is informitave. EDIT: cane creek ec44 link

[@KevCentral]

The EC44 is an external headset cup, so the actual taper rests under the headtube. It adds a small bit of height to the front to make the adapting happen. Thanks for sharing

[@Fixingeverthingwithaengine567]

I have upgraded my trek marlin 5 29er. I also have the boundary and the the aluminum comp.

[@Larry93215]

I love retro full suspension mountain bikes your my second favorite channel I just got a 1300 dollar 97 Trek y 5 for a 145 dollars and I upgraded the front end you should do some retro reviews my latest example is fully capable with excellent suspension fox vanilla and Mantou black forks

[@littlebrowndude3460]

Hey Kev good to hear from you again, missed you buddy

[@TM-lw8wn]

on bar width: what you are looking for is forming a triangulated position instead of a parallelogram position with your arms, shoulders, hands and bars.

[@x1RoBoT3x]

IT'S FINALLY KEV TIME AGAIN!!!!!

[@unnamedracer9757]

The things I always start off with our lock on grips and pedals The lock on grips make it so much easier to upgrade stuff related to the cockpit down the road. Number three is always tires for me, I just feel like it makes the biggest difference. With my al comp, I started with those three things, then I put a dropper post, hydraulic brakes, and swapped to a one by nine my grow shift advent drivetrain piece by piece. The more expensive upgrades definitely make the biggest differences. Next, and probably final thing, is switching to an air fork.

[@devildoglcpl]

I have a bike that is 1200 out of the box and, I still had to upgrade. Most people I see who have even a little skill off road upgrade with the purchase things like "contact points". I think, manufacturers know that grips, seats and pedals are to user specific to pic ones that will suit everyone out of the box. I love Odi grips. My bike shop owning friend has a thing for Lizard skins. I like a shorter nose "bmx" style seat. If you're tall with long spider monkey arms, I like 800mm bars. I like 175mm crank arms. Most people think that's long. Wider bars also offer more leverage for sprinting. Even the size of the frame can be a matter of preference. I'm 6'3" tall. I "should" be on a large. I ride a medium. On a bike, millimeters matter. Like you say, if the bike is capable of doing what you want to do and need it to do and, it's comfortable, who cares what it costs? I love this channel.

[@christiandruan]

I’m only 6ft tall and I ride a large. Every time I ride a medium I feel so cramped. That’s crazy that you like a medium at 6’3”! To each his own!

[@devildoglcpl]

@@christiandruan You're right. It's crazy, but I am used to BMX where my longest top tube was 21.75. my medium has a 22" top tub. Feals big to me. But, you hit it on the head, "to each their own".

[@drumexpert]

Welcome back. Love the content. I purchased a 2020 Taff with the 1x system. I can’t dial in the Pro-rush derailleur and the smaller rear cogs seem to put too much stress on the rear hub. I am considering upgrading the entire drivetrain to an SLX 11-speed. Just curious to see if you had any upcoming long term update videos on the Taff or Boundary with the pro-rush in the works?

[@KevCentral]

Yes

[@Dragon1165]

Glad you put this out there

[@kevinmeehan4549]

Damn kev you have been gone awhile . Just like the bikes at Walmart . A lot of empty racks . Hope everything is ok . Great and educational episode.

[@Keaguan]

Ayyyy its so good that your back!

[@Evil2BlackHeart]

Dude happy u back

[@MrBadgers]

I had the same issue removing the bottom bracket on my GT Agressor Pro. The solution? M8 screw and a couple of washers to hold the BB removal tool flush to the BB. A very large adjustable wrench. A 5ft Pipe. And my weight at the end of it. Came right off. But it did defeat: Me standing on a 15 inch wrench. That same impact driver. Air Impact wrench from my local mechanic.

[@BruceChastain]

I'm not sure why but I've not had good luck with impact drivers and BBs. I've found a long cheater bar is usually better.

[@christiandruan]

I love my 800mm bars, gives a real stable feel while riding

[@alienschmaliens]

Yes, I want to know if you got that thing off with the new impact!