Nova3d Whale3 Super 14k In-Depth Test & Review

[@FranklyPeetoons]

This is the most accurate and informative KZbin channel about resin printing and resin printers. You should be swimming with the big 3D printing boys eventually, KZbin willing...

[@wangdennys]

eventually, now i want to focus more on making content. thank you

[@ebfisher]

Your reviews are the best, you need more subscribers!

[@wangdennys]

Amen!

[@Cakemagic1]

Wow, nice that you raised attention to these kinds of things. It's a win for all the 3D resin print enthusiasts!

[@wangdennys]

Thank you

[@bluepinknight]

Really appreciate your thorough tests once again!

[@wangdennys]

Thank you

[@ThomasPrintShop-qz5eq]

very impartial, and informative, Thanks Dannys!

[@Redbox013]

Great review! You discovered the bug!!

[@runklestiltskin_2407]

Excellent work. I always learn something here

[@watsonstudios]

You bring up a good point about the distance from the film to the screen. That's why I never use a screen protector because I want to keep the NFEP film as close to the screen as possible because the further away it is, the more the light spreads. I use the Saturn 3 Ultra and get great prints.

[@wangdennys]

0.1-0.5 distance is fine But this has 1mm thick tempered glass and the gap.

[@timurim3143]

Thanks for the detailed review! I was really looking forward to your opinion about this printer. I hope I will receive my ultra printer with a fixed bad, I ordered it in December but have not received a shipping message yet

[@wangdennys]

check updated info in video description.

[@AntiVaganza]

Exactly the same issue with my old Anycubic Mono 4K. The FEP is so far off the the LCD, I had to dial in +0.4mm offset to even get prints to stick. And if you were hoping to print dimensionally accurate parts on the plate, well, forget about it - they would come out way undersized on the Z. Worse the shorter the part was as the compression was the worst at the bottom. It took me a while to figure out and I literally could not find anyone talking about this at the time. I got a ceramic 3rd party vat that places the FEP much closer. To see manufacturers still make mistakes like this is frustrating. As for sanding something flush and level - sand in figure eights, and turn the item you are sanding so that you also hold it from all four sides. You'll be able to sand fine just like that though I would not want to have to sand down a big alu vat like that. Plastic, no problem. Anyways, thanks as always.

[@noodl3d]

Great fix. I've followed and done the same on mine. Much better. Thank you. What settings do you recommend on this printer for a large bust or a full plate articulated dragon. Want to test how well this printer can handle

[@oem42]

7:46 the letters on the right side look clearer What res do you think we will no longer be able to detect voxels by eye?

[@wangdennys]

the x side on the oval tube, i cannot see the voxels without the help of macro lens. under some light angle i can see it, so i guess maybe something like 8um? then you wont be able to see the voxels. but that also depends on the surface curvature.

[@lorainemicheletti]

Hello Dennys, I’m watching your vídeo, the explanations are great. I currently have an elegoo Mars 3 for use in jewelry, but it doesn’t have the resolution I still want, would you recommend a printer for jewelry ?

[@wangdennys]

Mars 3 should be good. You might need to tune your exposure.

[@awildtomappeared5925]

A better soloution would be to lift out the screen and adding spacers under it so you are raising the screen up without messing with the VAT or increasing the distance between the LCD and fep which will reduce quality

[@wangdennys]

I am afraid to crack the glass. LOL

[@awildtomappeared5925]

@@wangdennys idk how that one works but on my saturn and all others I've seen you just open the printer so you can get a hand under it to push the screen up from thr adhesive around the edge and then you can just print a spacer or use something to fill the gap and put double sided tape on either side of it, I dont see how the glass could break from this

[@davidc3150]

Happy new year dennys. Think you could make a video on how to use UV tools to fix files? I have heard it can be used at least to fill places where there would be resin pools (not necessarily bad hollowing, just how the model was made). And what's the ideal resin temperature? Is it enough to just preheat it prior to printing(given the heat generated curing each layer would somewhat keep the temperature stable)? Or a constant heat source is needed? Having a bit of issues due to cold weather

[@wangdennys]

i dont really like to use uvtools, it only add complication for beginner

[@steverc1572]

What kind of speeds and distance settings did you use with this printer?

[@heaycekz]

I think the saturn 3 ultra has the same issue, would you mind reviewing the printer?

[@wangdennys]

I dont have the fund to do so. But i will try borrow from my friend if possible.

[@heaycekz]

@@wangdennysI will sponsor you for the ACF and PFA film but I cannot afford to sponsor printer itself hehe. I think switching from ACF(0.3mm thick) to PFA(0.11mm thick) is causing the problem. I use PFA because the resolution is better.

[@wangdennys]

@heaycekz LOL i have plenty acf and pfa. Need the printer 🤣

[@kmah324]

Any follow up?

[@retromodernart4426]

The "film gap problem" you mentioned doesn't seem to happen with metal film frames, you might want to look into this, Nova3D sells metal frames for the Whale3 series for people who want to use other film instead of what comes in those disposable plastic frames that they sell (and comes with the printer). I use metal frames from Nova3D and my own metal frames I designed...

[@wangdennys]

The height of the film is not from the film frame. It is from the resin tank bottom height. Nova3d said they will ship me new kit that they developed to get rid of the gap.

[@retromodernart4426]

@@wangdennys Thanks for the info, very interesting, PLEASE show the results on here!

[@wangdennys]

@@retromodernart4426 i will if i get the new kit.

[@retromodernart4426]

@@wangdennys Right on!

[@oem42]

lol how long is a 9 second rest time print?

[@wangdennys]

Halfway finishing your meal 🤣

[@mladjo6594]

I have similar "gap" on my Saturn 3 ultra when I changed to regular fep. ACF is 0.3mm compared to 0.1mm now. I wander if I should buy Saturn 3(non ultra) VAT? Any thoughts on this? Thanks

[@mladjo6594]

Btw I had few fails on this new fep, it was my first replacement ever. No distancer used...

[@AsimPaints]

Does the 9s rest time mean before the UV array turns on to cure the layer, the build plate sits in the vat for nine whole seconds?

[@retromodernart4426]

No, it means the build plate goes to where it's supposed to be, sits there, then 9 seconds later the UV light goes on for the exposure time duration.

[@AsimPaints]

@retromodernart4426 that's what I was trying to say. Jeez 9 seconds to get no print lines is insane

[@retromodernart4426]

@@AsimPaints No it's not insane, it's good practice for all medium and larger printers for the first 1mm to 2mm of a print - you do understand that this "built in" delay only happens for the "bottom" layers?

[@wangdennys]

In case of whale3 se, it is hard coded to all layers. In whale3 super, you could change it.

[@wangdennys]

Yes it is.

[@Vitalik1881]

sorry, but what rest time do you mean? Before lift, after lift or after retract? Don't understand that parametr

[@ebfisher]

In this case, time from when the print bed comes down to when the light comes on. Due to the large gap under the film, more time is needed for the film to level itself back out from the pressure of the print bed squeezing the resin between the build plate and the film.

[@wangdennys]

After retract Before exposure start

[@TheUglydandy]

I see no significant difference between those X and Y small letters. More than that - I think that your SE with its 30 microns managed them even better )

[@wangdennys]

Looks like the gap indeed an issue

[@P1x3lMagic]

Hardcoded 10 s rest time?? That gives total printing time like in 'good old days' of first RGB printers, like 20 hours? 30 hours? 🤯

[@Vitalik1881]

sorry, but what rest time do you mean? Before lift, after lift or after retract? Don't understand that parametr

[@P1x3lMagic]

@@Vitalik1881 I guess, after lift. But I just quoted what Dennis said in the second part of this video...

[@wangdennys]

After retract

[@retromodernart4426]

The "hardcoded" 10s rest time is only for the bottom layers, not the whole print (I have the 8k Whale3 SE and 8K Whale3 Ultra). I actually _add_ up to 60s wait before print time for the first 20 layers or so, depending on the print.

[@runklestiltskin_2407]

Tesla-Style panel gaps, lol

[@P1x3lMagic]

One may find helpful to use good old self-adhesive rubber strips from the nearest hardware store 🙈