He should use mineral oil in the loop instead of water, that way he could put a fan in the liquid and have it pushed through the fins much more efficiently.
@akeelshah79044 жыл бұрын
@@EVPointMaster such a good idea
@TheUnjust1174 жыл бұрын
i dont see aditional fans inside the colling liquid to make any difference, considering that fans are normally there to insure constant airflow... Liquid colling on a loop creates a continuus flow, you can clearly see that when he fills it as all the bits inside are floatin and swirlin around. so fans inside the installation would be completely pointless
@TheNerd4 жыл бұрын
i guess its not gonna be possible but try not to mix aluminium and copper ah and maybe if its possible try to match the waterflow with direction of the coolerfins? cooler fins?. any fins here?
@MartinBarker4 жыл бұрын
@@TheUnjust117 hrm I'm not sure someone would have to model it in a thermodynamic simulation, perhaps the water from top to bottom causes it to pull enough water though the fins, otherwise, a fan forcing the cooler fluid through the fins on the heat sink would allow them to transfer heat faster. would be interesting to see a model of it though. but because the entry and output are on the "top" end I could see the fluid not passing through the fins so well, and so the fluids passive transfer of heat is being used more than a forced transfer of metal to the fluid.
@danielvanced55263 жыл бұрын
I know this is a bit late, but if anyone plans to do this, or you are planning to do this again. Corrosion is caused by two issues here: 1, Water causing galvanic corrosion due to mixed metals. You need to use a liquid with a corrosion inhibitor, something like automotive coolant. The corrosion will mostly appear at the interfaces between the two metals, this means less heat transfer between the heat pipes and the fin stacks. 2, Silicone sealant. Most silicones are acetoxy cure, this means they release acetic acid as they cure. It smells like vinegar, and will cause corrosion on anything that it is contact with, or anything inside a sealed box with it. There are neutral cure silicones which should always be used anywhere where sensitive metals are involved like copper or aluminium. I've seen electronics sealed with silicone against water ingress, but because acetoxy cure silicone was used, they have corroded faster than if they weren't sealed at all.
@nieks.73263 жыл бұрын
Responding to this in the hope it gets seen because this should be taken I to account.
@djericdiesel Жыл бұрын
kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2fdpHunmbOFh5o
@doogle41444 жыл бұрын
I’d like to see a more efficient design being tested, perhaps with the water flow going through the fins better... go for it!
@Dunkopf4 жыл бұрын
Seconded.
@TaintedCamper4 жыл бұрын
Use one of the lower profile colleges like a noctua l12s or the c14s
@jamesaron19674 жыл бұрын
Another vote for an improved efficiency design.
@kinampark30934 жыл бұрын
Yes exactly what i was thinking. Make an evaporative cooler. Using radiator is just dumb. Why not use the proper watercooling kit? If you just make an artificial waterfall loop using a pump and waterproofed fan to cool wet fins, it would make more sense. Would be interesting to see how it performs against real water cooler
@Trexpass4 жыл бұрын
also USE a painted heatsink (black preferrably)
@AliYassinToma4 жыл бұрын
do it with a stock cooler .. thats a way to make use of the useless intel coolers
@drackar4 жыл бұрын
Sealing around a stock cooler would be a lot more work.
@AliYassinToma4 жыл бұрын
@@drackar yea but still do-able
@archibaldthearcher4 жыл бұрын
Agreed! This would be the true test if this project is either to build something for the sake of building something unusual or it has some practical use. A lot of water cooling projects I see around are sadly the first thing, I mean its cool to create something weird and have fun by making it real but I would really like to see attempt of making something useless and available (either most of us have stock coolers or they are easy and cheap to get) into something functional either to save cash or as an emergency when you really need your pc to run and your part didn't arrive or got damaged.
@bighairycomputers4 жыл бұрын
The problem with an extruded cooler (both Intel and AMD) is that the fin structure is non-conducive to water flowing between the fins, which is where your better heat transfer comes from. If you never get flow through the fins, then the extra surface area doesn't mean crap and you'll wind up with mediocre performance. So you have to use a heat pipe cooler of some sort to get fins properly oriented in a way to be able to channel water between them to make full use of the surface area.
@bighairycomputers4 жыл бұрын
Now if you could build a cold plate to mount some custom heat pipes on the CPU, then pipe it up to the cold plate of the cooler, and orient the cooler on it's side to make the pipes only have 1 bend and to make tubing water into it more space efficient. The fabrication for that is fairly simple if you have a drill press and some background in jank machining, or a three axis vertical mill, but heat pipes are pricey, and aluminum or copper bar stock is expensive, so you are probably going to end up cheaper, cleaner, and more effective using a low profile heat piped cooler with horizontal fin heat pipes like an NH-L12S or an NT06.
@Amusia7274 жыл бұрын
Everyone knows corrosion adds at least 30fps to your liquid cooler
@ledfed19124 жыл бұрын
I was wondering where the extra performance i got came from.
@raven4k9984 жыл бұрын
not 30 fps it add 300 fps your such a noob that has never tried to deal with liquid cooling and corrosion when done properly you get 300 fps minimum with corrosion when done right :p
@flipvdfluitketel8674 жыл бұрын
@@raven4k998 can confirm. It also increased RAM for me
@Amusia7274 жыл бұрын
@@raven4k998 Yes, but this method allows an extra 7hp and 40 Exp
@Jameshazlett4 жыл бұрын
Yes increase coolers surface area.
@JuanPretorius4 жыл бұрын
Have a normal liquid cooling setup. *Then liquid cool the radiator.*
@sonicbhoc4 жыл бұрын
Didn't LTT do this with one of their projects?
@GuRuGeorge034 жыл бұрын
lmao
@OnlyKaerius4 жыл бұрын
@@TierNone_LarperatoR I have a vague memory of someone cooling the entire computer by putting it in mineral oil, years and years ago. Tom's Hardware ca a decade ago, or something?
@dakotareno13424 жыл бұрын
Don't forget to add the water chiller
@yo_its_gingey53294 жыл бұрын
Juan Pretorius yooooo that’s big brain
@TimmyJoePCTech4 жыл бұрын
If it's so good with an old i5 I would love to see it on any modern 8 core cpu!
@HiimAbyss4 жыл бұрын
3900X that bish
@joek819814 жыл бұрын
It's weird seeing a maker in the comments. Like seeing your priest at the bar. Or a bear walking on its hind legs.
@MajorHardware4 жыл бұрын
I have a 3950x but I'm to big of a sis to try it on it
@chucklesdeclown88194 жыл бұрын
@@MajorHardware do it, do it, do it, do it, do it.
@gilangrr214 жыл бұрын
@@MajorHardware do it, do it, do it, do it, do it, do it
@jamesh49664 жыл бұрын
You should use an automotive coolant , it has additives to protect aluminum engine blocks and heads from scaling and to carry heat efficiently. It will also protect cooper. Should work well with your project. It comes in green, red and white. Also it's good for 50,000 miles so you should never have to replace it.
@JessicaFEREM2 жыл бұрын
I don't think the pc is moving 50k miles so i think you'll be fine
@geofferydeanjackson9244 Жыл бұрын
And Purple coloured coolant too! But I agree with James. Running a Ethylene Glycol solution may yield better results and better longevity from corrosion.
@teardowndan53644 жыл бұрын
Since you have different connected metals immersed in water, you'll need corrosion inhibitors to prevent the heatsink from getting destroyed by galvanic corrosion in a long-term run.
@BiologyIsHot3 жыл бұрын
Or mineral oil
@teardowndan53643 жыл бұрын
@@BiologyIsHot The problem with mineral oil for cooling applications is that it has less than 1/3 the specific heat as water, which means you need ~3X as much flow for the same performance.
@arlobubble37483 жыл бұрын
@Teardown Dan its not gonna necessarily need 3x the flow, but 3x the liquid capacity to have the same thermal mass - thermal conductivity of mineral oil is pretty poor compared to water at about a 1/4, probably won't affect the CPU cooler side as much as there's ample surface area but the effectiveness of the rad could be an issue.
@teardowndan53643 жыл бұрын
@@arlobubble3748 Increasing the total "thermal mass" by increasing volume only changes how long it takes for the loop to come up to temperature. It does nothing for actually moving heat from A to B. If you have a fluid with worse specific heat, you need more flow to achieve the same heat transfer rate because the fluid passing through the hot plate is warming up 3-4X as fast so you need 3-4X the flow to keep hot plate temperature the same, same goes for a radiator of a given size.
@It-b-Blair3 жыл бұрын
@@teardowndan5364 physics! 🥳👍
@hanswurst83174 жыл бұрын
I would suggest to use a nickel-plated server heatsink like the Supermicro SNK-P0048PS. By using this you might be able to direct the waterflow well-balanced through all of the fins.
@shanehenrie53264 жыл бұрын
idk perhaps try a painted cooler or one that doesn't have mixed exposed metals .To prevent erosion in the fluid
@ismaelyu54 жыл бұрын
It just corrodes because he let the water out..
@MarbleTL4 жыл бұрын
Put some glycol in there?
@jamberrytastic4 жыл бұрын
@@MarbleTL or Mineral oil
@AsbestosMuffins4 жыл бұрын
probably unavoidable, paint or not the heat pipes are gonna be in contact with aluminum fins in water, these aren't designed for water
@Artcore1034 жыл бұрын
use one of the noctua chromax coolers. the heat pipes are also painted, it should hold up well. or one of the black bequiet coolers.
@VIPERRED2294 жыл бұрын
I saw this on my feed and clicked immediately! Definitely do an updated version.
@farsidesc40444 жыл бұрын
I checked the date on this to see how long "one year ago" was. This was a wonderful surprise to see this show up on my feed!
@SirDaffyD4 жыл бұрын
It's worth revisiting. One change I'd make, is having the bigger sides against the fins so that the water is forced through the cooler, as apposed to having probably most of it running past it. You know, path of least resistance stuff.
@djericdiesel Жыл бұрын
kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2fdpHunmbOFh5o
@n3m37h4 жыл бұрын
"Getting air in the loop" *Return line on the top* FACEPALM
@randomguy-4 жыл бұрын
True. Although I think that is the best way since hot water will naturally rise to the top.
@n3m37h4 жыл бұрын
Water in the loop will all be the same temp. This is why it makes no difference what order parts are in the loop. Air in the line can cause air locking in the pump and inefficient heat transfer with in the rad
@tatzecom4 жыл бұрын
Aint that how its always supposed to be? Fill from the bottom and take from the top? At least thats how I know all of my coolers. Like, liquid heat exchanger thingies, not water coolers for yo PC, i mean the ones for cooling down say the vapor from a destillation
@n3m37h4 жыл бұрын
@@tatzecom water coolers rely on the physical contact of water. Air that gets trapped in the pump can also cause an imbalance and ruin the pump over time or worse cause air lock. When you take from the top the nossle needs to be fully submerged or else water gets into the loop this is why it is more pratical to take water from bottom
@ARVash4 жыл бұрын
@@n3m37h That's what the second reservoir is for. The top one bleeds from the top, the bottom one takes from the bottom, no risk of air.
@greggv84 жыл бұрын
Version 2 definitely needs a closer fit to the cooler fins and a block on top so water can't flow over the top. It also needs a distribution tube on the inlet side so water gets evenly spread across the fins. Last thing, use a corrosion inhibitor. Get some 50/50 premix automotive antifreeze. Test that, then add some Redline WaterWetter and test again. Also test plain water with and without WaterWetter.
@oplkfdhgk4 жыл бұрын
who would have thought that putting aluminium and copper in same loop would cause corrosion :P
@SilvaDreams4 жыл бұрын
To be fair the air cooler has been sitting in a enclosed box with stagnate water keeping it humid and a tiny bit of air flow allowing for a heavy amount of corrosion unlike if it was just in water (Though the design needs a lot of work to get better flow)
@patrickpenguin85874 жыл бұрын
@@SilvaDreams a heatsink isn't an air cooler, it's a passive cooler, becoming an air cooler when you throw fans on it
@jocerv434 жыл бұрын
@@patrickpenguin8587 it's not even an air cooler, it literally just makes air hotter.
@patrickpenguin85874 жыл бұрын
@@jocerv43 was I supposed to laugh?
@ctrlaltdebug4 жыл бұрын
Yeah with the mixed metals he should run car antifreeze mix as it has anti corrosion additives, and it would stop the scum growing.
@TheJarJarKinks4 жыл бұрын
Honestly, I commend you for being so calm with that thing in your system without at least putting paper towels on anything electronic nearby.
@markus98sb4 жыл бұрын
You should try it wich a nickelplated or painted cooler, so it doesn't corrode. And maybe you could try to modify a fan to make it waterresistant and put in on the cooler ( just to look cool). I would also try to minimize the gaps on the side to foce the water though to fins.
@SpecialEllio4 жыл бұрын
pretty sure the industrial noctua fans ar water proof.
@heygek27694 жыл бұрын
@@SpecialEllio they are not, maybe they are a bit more water resistant, but not meant to be submerged
@SpecialEllio4 жыл бұрын
@@heygek2769 well no but maybe you can force them to run by forcing power through them from a power supply? would be a lot easier than creating a water proof fan.
@gamer2x5324 жыл бұрын
You could try a waterproof fan or mini fan, and maybe put the inlet on the bottom side of the cooler? Or split the tubes so you have more inlets at the bottom to separate the flow through the fins?
@marcosvictor49354 жыл бұрын
I think if he make the Water com out from the bottom part of the finstack it would force the water to travel from top to bottom and it would necessarily go through the fins. Also if he makes both inlet and outlet come from teh side of the enclosure then it probabyl would fit in the case with side panel on. BUT, it's not possible for a home-made fan to be waterproof. He would need to separate the motor and, well let's not get too much into this, you would really need a lot of engineering and tools to make an electric motor waterproof for submersion.
@Dia1Up4 жыл бұрын
I think you need internal baffles, something to force the water to flow through the fins This was the project that made me sub \o/ I can't believe it was that long ago
@neth774 жыл бұрын
Yes this, or make the casing tight over the heatsink.
@DarkOoze1234 жыл бұрын
This is what made me subscribe a year ago :D
@gilangrr214 жыл бұрын
Me too :D
@LMPods4 жыл бұрын
same
@TheBastard814 жыл бұрын
Same
@BusbyBiscuits4 жыл бұрын
Lol yeah me 2
@reshmaislam57084 жыл бұрын
i think me aswell
@azureknight7774 жыл бұрын
Never expected to see a follow-up. What a treat this is. :) Imagine if you'd dried it out before storing. Also I'm really surprised the epoxy held since it's not only the seal, but also mechanically holding the entire block to the heatsink. Amazing.
@jazzochannel2 жыл бұрын
epoxy can hold a lot more than 1-2 kg of water...
@pixel_vengeur3914 жыл бұрын
Maybe try with one of Noctua's Low-profile coolers? It surely would fit in a case afterwards :]
@CenPapi4 жыл бұрын
I don't understand how you only have 34.9k subscribers, the quality and frequency of your content is deserving of millions of subs. It boggles my mind how so many undeserving(in my opinion) channels can have millions upon millions of subs, yet a channel like yours has so few. I sincerely hope that someday soon your channel will start gaining subscribers in a big, nay YUGE way; I'm gunning for you brother, keep on truckin'.
@MrNlce304 жыл бұрын
Would oil not work better for heat transference also it would reduce the corrosion. Great video. Keep up the good work.
@Amusia7274 жыл бұрын
MrNlce30 Water has a greater specific heat capacity than oil so no.
@Amusia7274 жыл бұрын
Only real benefits of the oil would be in corrosion and no real risk if there is a leak, since it isn’t a solvent like water.
@laharl2k4 жыл бұрын
if you care about corrotion long term then use what cars use, that is destilled water with glycol and aditives. oil is not perfect and it also has lower thermal resistance than water so water will always win, so your best bet would be adding stuff to the water to stop the corrotion. If you are coming from the "oil cooler pc" kind of idea, thats only because its nearly imposible to keep destilled water destilled when you throw stuff in it and also when it stops being destilled, your whole pc is toast. Moneral oil may not be as good of a coolant but its waaaaaay safer for cooling live electronics. In a water loop, the coolant is isolated from the electronics so it doesnt really matter that its non conductive, so you are better off with a better coolant like water. Mercury would be a better coolant than water, but its super heavy, toxic and it eats copper and aluminum (it alloys on contact) so it wouldnt last long. Its all about which is the best and more convenient coolant for each situation.
@frank1244444 жыл бұрын
Oil has a tendency to ruin rubbers and some silicones aswell.
@Amusia7274 жыл бұрын
I mean the best coolant would be liquid ammonia, but it isn’t practical for usage.
@LeonVAC3 жыл бұрын
i did found you channel because of your Water Cooled Air Cooler and just watched the first part and searched for the second part and here i am
@EVPointMaster4 жыл бұрын
Use mineral oil in the loop, so you can still put a fan directly on the cooler
@LeonisYT4 жыл бұрын
Wouldn't that eat away any plastic in the loop, such as the the box around the air coolers and the tubing?
@EVPointMaster4 жыл бұрын
@@LeonisYT Look up mineral oil PC.Those are completely submerged in it and that doesn't seem to be a problem
@xxxSevenforxxx4 жыл бұрын
Or just car/motorbike cooling fluid, thats cheap and with a anti-rust mixture.
@EVPointMaster4 жыл бұрын
@@xxxSevenforxxx Well if the coolants are also not electrically conductive, then yes they should work as well, but using mineral oil to cool PC components is known to be safe and also not that expensive
@shadowreaver7524 жыл бұрын
@@xxxSevenforxxx didn't Jay try that? And beer??
@garywilkey47764 жыл бұрын
Funny I just found this series. Then you update it a few days later! Nice! I was interested in this!
@shiftctrlhack4 жыл бұрын
Yes do a new one !! Definitely smaller and see what the results are.
@danielspellingclausen46694 жыл бұрын
It would be really cool to revisit the watercooled air cooler. A couple of suggestions: It could be fun to see how a big aircooler performs. I think something along the lines of Deepcool Assassin 3, or a Noctua NH D15, although fabrication probably will be difficult. Second suggestion would be to move the inlet and outlet, in a diagonel pattern. Inlet in the bottom and outlet at the top. That way the waterflow would move across the finstack, perhaps improving cooling.
@SWIRFTV4 жыл бұрын
-this should be a product i can buy right now - keep messin with it
@ApexLodestar4 жыл бұрын
Definitely worth revisiting.
@jar1450224 жыл бұрын
I have a thought. Mineral oil?? It’s nonconducting and you could add a small fan for creating flow. The radiator should create enough cooling to keep the mineral oil cool theoretically. The problem would be the pump. It would have to be a very strong pump as the oil is much thicker and would need a stronger pump to circulate effectively.
@herrasaurus7453 жыл бұрын
This could work with motorcycle fork oil. I'ts almost as dense as water.
@worldwideguitarman4 жыл бұрын
I'd love to see a revisit of this. I have no suggestions for the cooler to use but the box can be made smaller. The top of the box could be right against the tops of the heat pipes. The sides of the box could be very close to the sides of the cooler. Inlet on one side and outlet on the other. You would then literally be forcing water through the fins. Maybe even have more than one inlet and outlet. Possibly 2 or 3 of each, spread over the height of the cooler. Water line distribution blocks are easy enough to find and aren't very expensive.
@BeryBelloney4 жыл бұрын
2:34 if the cooler stay like that for a few week I wonder if the mb and case is strong enough
@avatarofdeath4 жыл бұрын
This project is why I subbed to you. You should totally make another one with better flow and a non corrosive liquid.
@TheFgiraldi4 жыл бұрын
Amazing how fast time pass! I'd try pouring some vinegar into the loop in order to try to internally clean it, and to remove some corrosion in there.
@nathangamble1254 жыл бұрын
If you can get the air out to prevent further oxidation, having a bit of vinegar in the loop permanently might even be a good idea.
@rwiersema3 жыл бұрын
This would be such a cool thing for a post-apocalyptic build
@isseyIT4 жыл бұрын
Make a collab with The Thought Emporium and plasma coat it in ceramic😂
@icediverfull4 жыл бұрын
that would be pretty insane. So fits to both guys lol
@HepauDK4 жыл бұрын
Wouldn't a ceramic coating just trap the heat? Ceramic is an insulator, it sucks at transfering heat.
@isseyIT4 жыл бұрын
@@HepauDK I don't know exactly, but isn't it few µm thick? Is it enough to block heat transfer?
@warchant594 жыл бұрын
That's awesome! I'd like to see the development and testing of another prototype.
@tapisbadatgames4 жыл бұрын
"air cooled water cooler"
@99Etien4 жыл бұрын
well thats just a normal water cooler...
@MultiTomtom234 жыл бұрын
he did that one too =)
@cad10494 жыл бұрын
water cooled air cooler
@fortunefed87194 жыл бұрын
water-cooled air-cooler
@larsnielsen47984 жыл бұрын
I Think cheaper make a box and copperplate. Maybe paint it whit zink spay.
@BlaringKnight34 жыл бұрын
Love the follow-up! I like the original video so much that it got me into water-cooling in general. Keep up the good work.
@duragamer1324 жыл бұрын
Do a noctua black edition or be quiet painted cooler so there's no exposed metal other than heatpipes
@IndivisibleByZero4 жыл бұрын
Normal Noctuas are already coated with nickel.
@SCComega4 жыл бұрын
The coating isn't even as useful, it'd be better to stick with one of the old all-copper heatsinks like the thermalrights or Zalmans.
@nathangamble1254 жыл бұрын
@@SCComega The point is to prevent corrosion.
@Atul_Bhardwaj3 жыл бұрын
Now it's been 2 years since your previous video and 1 year since you made this video and people are still finding your channel because of them.
@802Garage4 жыл бұрын
I've got it. Turn the best air cooler into a water cooler. It's time to go Noctua air to water. :D
@DARRoftheDead4 жыл бұрын
Yes a v2 would be great. After reading some of the other comments. Many have said what i was thinking too. But, here are some extra ideas. Mentioned already and agree with: 1. A coated/painted cooler 2. using the fans from the air cooler inside the water to act as a pump. some other ideas: 1. using a downdraft style cooler to fit in the case better 2. maybe use mineral oil instead of water 3. i like the idea of a smaller air cooler used with something that puts out more heat. ( we know this works. I don't find the d-15 with water to be that interesting. )
@t3g3lst3n4 жыл бұрын
Use a Intel box cooler ;) They tiny, barely works stock. Will water make it usable? Also it's black so might take water better. Also they free and common in many shelves.
@Bearthedancingman4 жыл бұрын
Two ideas for future projects. #1: reverse flow to see if you get better or worse cooling. (used to work at a hydronic heating company and we used inverted flow in our water heaters and gained %20 more heat transfer.) #2: use a non conducive liquid for coolant and leave the fan mounted to the cooler for more even water flow through the cooler.
@megasxlr51934 жыл бұрын
yes... we WANT 2.0 version of that "thing" XD
@chincemagnet4 жыл бұрын
I seem to recall you didn’t use a radiator last time, which made the test kind of pointless. Glad to see you doing it right this time 👍🏼 I never saw the sequels, I’m gonna have to check those out, I never actually subbed until the tubing guides, that was awesome
@florihae4 жыл бұрын
Oh an please make the opposite of this one too!!! Try to cool the water of an open Loop with aircoolers only, no radiators 😂 Could imagine that you use 2 CPU blocks for it. One on the actual CPU and the other one just in the line and then you can mount the aircooler on the coldplate of it 😂
@nathangamble1254 жыл бұрын
YES, this! I'd love to see it.
@ServicioTHD4 жыл бұрын
Any ITX cooler would be a good experiment ! Nice vid!
@pablofernandezdiaz4644 жыл бұрын
yeah doing this again can be interesting
@BoardWalkToke4 жыл бұрын
A 2.0 version would be awesome. As some people stated, you could have water flow through the fins which I think would be worth looking into.
@haissamali4 жыл бұрын
Wow been a year already.
@uberreggie97564 жыл бұрын
haissam Ali I literally watched the video yesterday it feels like 😂
@TheDarkToes4 жыл бұрын
Use PC cooling liquid. It has anti corrosive properties and more! Make a 2.0, with a better flow design over the fins, and use the big ole noctuah cooler or the be quiet dark pro! Would love to print this out and do it at home for an "extreme" water block! Keep up the good work, thank you for your time!
@zynoa12354 жыл бұрын
if you had one of the larger 2 stack air coolers like the Noctua D-15 and half was air colled and half water ????
@benjaminnyman86874 жыл бұрын
Zynoa123 I would love to see this too, but wonder if the tank on one of the heatsinks would block all the airflow from the other fan
@rileyfenley5224 жыл бұрын
I think the side that has the water cooled portion would be doing a majority of the work. The non water cooled side wouldn’t be completely useless though its effectiveness would depend on if a fan was used, placement and speed. It would be fun to play with though.
@zynoa12354 жыл бұрын
@@benjaminnyman8687 this is true but I'm sure there are a few options if it is a pull fan at the back exhaust out the back might work it would increase airflow
@henderstech3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video. I would never be ever to see and test things like this. I would not be able to afford all the hardware. So thank you for doing it lol.
@HelloKittyGUNDAM4 жыл бұрын
let's go NH-D15! let's go NH-D15! let's go NH-D15! let the KING evolve to its ULTRA form! 👑😎
@TransformerCoil4 жыл бұрын
Cringe
@FordSierraIS4 жыл бұрын
level 99 virgin
@GeckosWiggle3 жыл бұрын
Yes please do another one! A giant one and a small one.
@AIC_onyt4 жыл бұрын
^make the new cooler force the water thru the finns. you ave a lot of space, where water can go arround the heatsink
@paulburkey24 жыл бұрын
Heat rises so as long as the cold water comes in from the bottom and the hot water exits from the top it will not matter
@Netopia403 жыл бұрын
@MajorHardware You should run a high ratio of whist vinegar and distilled water through the system with a filter in line somewhere. You could remove much or even nearly all of that scaling. Then, you should run distilled water through it a couple of times with the filter just to make sure everything is out as much as possible before finalizing on just distilled water. Then it should be back to nearly new functionality without building up new scaling. Also, and I'm sure someone else must have mentioned this in the comments, but your room temp was 2C higher than the original test and your CPU temp was 2C higher too. To me, that seems like it's working as efficiently as the first run through.
@LS-oh8kv4 жыл бұрын
Technically corrosion adds surface area to the fins lmao
@maciej13873 жыл бұрын
And a layer of insulation.
@RagnorBC4 жыл бұрын
Whatever cooler or liquid you use next, you want to make sure the casing around the heatsink fits as tightly as possible. I'm guesstimating there's now a 5mm clearance around the heatsink, where water will pass though but little to no heat is transferred. This is essentially a pressure bypass. If you reduce this gap or ideally eliminate it, all the pressure from the pump can be used to push the liquid through the heatsink fins. It might be a good idea to turn to 3D printing instead of acrylic, to get that shape right. As for a heatsink, something like a Noctua NH-D9L could be an interesting route. It's a two-tower style cooler that you could turn into two chambers; one where you push the liquid up, overflowing into the next chamber with the outlet on the bottom. Much like the radiators are built.
@thomassvedin87014 жыл бұрын
I have an ideas. Use oil instead of water. Less corotion :) Who need a water tank when your cpu can swim with the fishes!
@Koichifirst4 жыл бұрын
Yes mineral oil :D
@smiley30124 жыл бұрын
I once made my own water block for a 780 video card. Used it for 3 years and it worked pretty good. The stupid things we do sometimes.
@roytelling65404 жыл бұрын
this is a year OLD WoW: it dosn't feel that long. ONLY a thought why didn't you just put one pie to you tape then you would be able to check it off the PC?????
@nickbutton97044 жыл бұрын
Definitely revisit and revise this then stress test it. The flow through the fins could definitely be optimized with at least a tighter case around the cooling fins
@potatopobobot42314 жыл бұрын
wife probably tried to throw that nasty thing out. Its like homers sandwich.
@blazarchzagnatz75064 жыл бұрын
Suggestion maybe - Rinse entire system with distilled water, perhaps a few times. Then fill with distilled water. The corrosion may be due to minerals/salts in the tap water. May have to create new cooler block due to old block corrosion leaching bad chemicals back into system. Just a thought.
@roboman24444 жыл бұрын
all that weight hanging off the motherboard just makes me cringe.
@LuxLikeGaming4 жыл бұрын
I mean... Is this small cooler with the water really THAT different than something like a Dark Rock 4 Pro? I dont think that's an issue here.
@nightmarethunderfist3 жыл бұрын
The next one should be coated in rustproof coating and somehow antimicrobial? Maybe a uv bulb to hit the liquid with a light shroud?
@bighairycomputers4 жыл бұрын
Build a D5 pump into the water box. Hear me out: Use a tower cooler like you used on this one. Do all the things I said in my other comment about tightening the box around the fins to get better flow through your fins. With the cooler oriented as it is at 1:28, put it on the bottom face, closest to the motherboard so it takes suction directly from the water box. Have it discharge out directly away from the motherboard. You could either print a pump top or get a pump/top that would be easy to mount. An XTOP would work, I think. Just tap four holes into the top of it, drill a couple holes on the mounting face, throw an o-ring between the pump top and the mounting face, maybe print the mounting face with a slight indent to receive said o-ring. It's settled. I'm buying a 3D printer after this deployment.
@slfrules13 жыл бұрын
yessir v2.0! tighten up the sides and build a block off between inlet/outlet for force flow through the cooler! Heck with the same cooler even. I'm just as interested in seeing how much is on the table just in flow optimizing.
@creeps32894 жыл бұрын
That be nice to see!Would be nice if there is extraction valve to remove the excessive liquid from it after use and a way to clence the cooler system after usage to prevent rusting ofc not attached to the rest the system while doing so, so u don't mess up the rest the system its awesome project build!Maybe re-attachable sides will do all that..
@rhl86734 жыл бұрын
Yes, please revisit this. This time I think you should try to convert a factory air-cooler to water-cooling. Something round and low-ish profile. A factory Intel or AMD cooler is what I'm thinking of and this time add a little more focus on how the coolant moves in the chamber.
@coolstreetman4 жыл бұрын
Bro this a legit cooler design that works. I would buy one
@kimkeam20944 жыл бұрын
Just a suggestion for the next cooler to add MoCool to the water. It is used by race cars to transfer more heat into the water, and assists with corrosion protection. I use it in both my Smart cars which have 700 cc intercooled turbocharged engines and struggle in summer to keep the temperature down. It could provide a better thermal conversion as well as giving your system longevity.
@broadkil3 жыл бұрын
One thing I would suggest is using mineral oil to prevent the corrosion issue and also avoids the issue of leaks bricking the board. The only issue I see with what I suggest is that I dont know what pump could handle the viscosity of the oil.
@batuhancokmar73304 жыл бұрын
Perhaps a version people would want to replicate in real life? For example, how about using stock intel cooler (which almost everyone has) and some radiator coolant that doesn't cause corrosion?? Hobbyist 12V water pumps are for like 3$. These can be modified to be run by chassis fan outlets, which can change rpm by changing voltage. I can buy a second-hand ford fiesta radiator for like 4$ here. Add a few $s for hoses and if this 12$ design can perform as good as high-end custom water coolers, this would be really useful as an experiment. Odds are, a "waterblock" as large as an intel cooler and a radiator probably 10 times as large as a PC radiator would make a very silent and very cool system, maybe even without using any fans.
@MrGoDuck4 жыл бұрын
I'd love to see this made again
@bobgrant43414 жыл бұрын
I like what you did, but I will drop some science on you. You can pick whatever cooler you want to use, just make sure that the fins that run along the widest sides are even with each other. When you re-make the 2.0 version, make sure that the long outside plastic panels are touching the fins and that the bottom panel (closest to the cpu) is right to top of the bottom fin, no gap, same for the top panel as well. The water input and output sides make sure to leave at least 3/4” space, 1” would be better, this will help in the directional flow. On the water input fitting, use a 5/16” or 3/8” diameter tube that is caped or crimped at the end and the tube runs the full length into the box, cut a straight slice in the whole length of this tube, only on one side, use a dremel cutoff fiber mesh type disc (they are a whole lot safer) this will leave you about a 7/64" or so, wide slot. Aim the slot straight at the middle of the cooler fins, the output fitting that you used before is okay. If you want to make sure to get all of the air out of the system, make to output side panel taper to the fitting. By building the box this way, it will create a directional water flow that will majorly increase the cooling efficiency.
@LuisMiguelGarciaTorres3 жыл бұрын
yes please. this and the cooling tower need revisiting.
@dracaris21173 жыл бұрын
I can't say it's “perfect“ but it really done very good* 10/10
@chrisalddin4 жыл бұрын
version 2.0 was why i subscribed so i did not miss it. so yes please make it.
@rpgaholic82023 жыл бұрын
Yeah, I remember it, just watched the video where you built it. That's the sad thing when I am "late" to a channel.
@MerolaC4 жыл бұрын
Yes, please! A new edition of it would be amazing!
@bighairycomputers4 жыл бұрын
100% want a reboot of this. Adding a corrosive inhibitor instead of just DI water would help with your corrosion. Honestly not sure where that corrosion came from, cause if it was sitting on a shelf for most of that time it wasn't galvanic corrosion, which would be the big concern from using an aluminum finned heatsink with copper radiator tubes and pump internals. You could use a massive NH-D15 and put the water inlets on the sides instead of the top to get it to fit in a typical case. You could also use mineral oil in it, which would let you put a fan between your fin stacks on the D15 to minimize the pressure drop and get more even spread of coolant across the fins, but mineral oil also doesn't carry heat as well as water, so I'm not sure if that would help at all. Better option would be a low profile cooler like a NH-L12S or a NH-C14S or a NT06. It'll fit better in the case and give you a lower center of gravity so you'll have less strain on the motherboard when in a typical tower case. With the NH-12 or NT06 you can put the inlets on the side top or bottom, for the NH-C14S you'll want to put the inlet/outlet on the top or bottom because the sides are all kind of closed up and would be a bit restrictive. Put your top/bottom/sides all flush to the fins so you don't have much or any coolant that doesn't flow through the fins to maximize your coolant over the heat transfer surfaces. Leave about an inch of water box on each side that you can tap your inlet/outlet fittings into. That'll also give plenty of space for your flow to evenly distribute across all of your fins, since the fins will act as their own distribution plate. You can help that out by putting your inlet and outlet diagonally across from each other instead of straight across from each other, but I don't think that will make that much difference. And for testing accuracy, I'd like to see the deltaT from coolant temperature to CPU temperature, since that's what your waterblock is driving. You can lower your water temperature by changing pump/radiator/water mass/fans, but your waterblock will keep a relatively constant delta from CPU to water for a given power output. Also, testing back pressure across the cooler would yield some useful information, since higher flow rate does help somewhat, and all PC watercooling pumps are centrifugal, so lower back pressure makes more flow makes (to a limited extent) more cooling. Parallel pumps might be useful for this as well, since you want to maintain turbulent flow between your fins, and I'm not sure you'd get high enough velocity to cause that with only one pump. You'd need a flow meter and a D/P detector to measure that stuff. For anyone asking if building this sort of block is "worth it", I would argue that water cooling is literally never "worth it". Your return on investment for open loop water cooling is basically nothing. A decent AIO will get 95% of the thermal performance, which equates to 99% of the compute performance, at 1/8 the cost. The determining factor, to me, on whether this is "worth it" or not is it's performance against a similarly priced (sum of bill of materials for each setup) traditional water block. Even if it's equivalent, it's still "worth it" as a neat, unique mod that's just fun to play with. At no point does "practical" come into play when you are talking about open loop cooling. For practical, go with an AIO or the biggest air cooler your case can fit.
@Yoshikaable4 жыл бұрын
I hope you revisit the water-through-the-heatpipes idea in an aircooler with parallel water flow, plus a fan attached to the radiator. This would make it effectively an air cooled water block!
@depth3864 жыл бұрын
If I could change anything for v2.0 it would be the water inlet/outlet ports, they would be located on the sides to get the flow direction parallel to the fins. Another sick upgrade would be slightly thicker tube for compatibility with normal custom loop fittings and a proper D5 pump and resevoir. For the cooler may I suggest you try a “Black” one? The black paint does decrease performance ever so slightly but it could help with holding off corrosion. Or it might turn into a black gunk that gums up the loop so who knows, but it would be nice to know.
@11164kloc4 жыл бұрын
💜DO MORE VIDEOS OF THIS PLEASE ITS A BEAST YOUR NOT EVEN CHILLING THE WATER AND ITS THIS STRONG💜
@shikarizero4 жыл бұрын
2:42 idk why but this was so satisfying to watch.
@matthagenbuch10473 жыл бұрын
my heart skipped a beat when you said DH15
@HighTekRedNeck4 жыл бұрын
An easy way to get a little more efficiency out of it would be put input up top and out flow at bottom to make it a counterflow chiller, also shrinking the box will up efficiency as well forcing more flow over the fins.
@center4nerds4 жыл бұрын
Next time you retire it especially if you do a 2.0 run dry air through it until dries out to help preserve it. You can start by just setting it in the window and letting the sun heat up the inside and push out the moisture and then once you get most the moisture out put a piece of tubing across both ports to seal it.
@sushimshah28964 жыл бұрын
Definitely would like to see a v2 of this paired with a modern i7 👍🏻
@snecel1233 жыл бұрын
I took a different twist on this about 10 years ago. I took a 1 rad water cooler and dipped the rad out the side of my case and into a large pot of water. Sometimes i put ice in too but usually left it without ice. It was the largest cooking pot i had in the house. As long as i topped it up every day (from evaporation) it stood steady no matter what voltage or multiplier i set it at. Truely the best solution if you don't mind having an open pot of water lying next to your open computer
@LinzJc4 жыл бұрын
100% worth a revisit, maybe tested on newer stuff like a 9900k or something and a better fit inside case design.
@alexgrote1614 жыл бұрын
Get a THREADRIPPER for the next one!!! See how the temps hold up!
@ethanspaziani52694 жыл бұрын
Now that you have a 3D printer I would love to see a new experiment involving this it would be pretty awesome to come up with some sort of solution that actually works that you can just put onto a air cooler please continue this project