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On some cars the water pump is fairly easy to access and remove. In my experience the Ford Windsor motor is one of the simple ones to change out the water pump, except when some of the bolts are seized. When a bolt doesn't turn even though you are using the right size socket and the corners of the bolt have now been rounded off, what do you do?
There are a lot of solutions that you can try, heating the bolt with a torch, you can try penetrating oil and letting it soak for a few hours, an impact driver can sometimes break the bolt loose. But what do you do when these don't work?
On this project I tried all of those, and it was still stuck. So I decided to at least get the water pump off to get it out of the way. The rest of the bolts all came out so the rounded bolt was the only thing holding the pump in place. A little work with my angle grinder and the rounded head was history. The pump was still stuck though so I used a sharp wood chisel to separate the pump from the timing chain cover. This left the headless bolt sticking out of the timing chain cover.
Then I decided to see what was on KZbin for additional solutions, 2 came to my attention. One was to use a stud remover to grab the bolt after the head was removed. The other was a technique to prevent breaking the bolt. Both made sense so I looked on Amazon and found this bolt extractor that would allow both solutions to be used.
tool used:
#ARES70016 | Damaged Bolt and Stud Extractor Tool | Grips and Removes 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch Studs | Ideal for Broken, Rounded Off, Painted Over and Rusted Tight Bolts
www.amazon.com...
I started by attaching the tool to the bolt and tightening it down hand tight. Then I attached my 3/8 inch drive ratchet to the center part of the tool, and gently tightened it until the tool began to slip on the bolt. Then I attached my 15 inch adjustable wrench to the main body of the tool. With this in place I started to tighten the tool further while holding the tool in place, the reason for this was to get as tight a bite on the bolt as possible before trying to remove the bolt. With the tightest bite I could get on the bolt I began to move it back and forth, back and forth in small movements to break the rust loose. As I did this the bite on the bolt would get loose and so I just tightened it a little more each time it did.
Then as I continued to move it back and forth I could see the bolt was moving more with the tool each time so I increased the movement a little each forward turn. But I would keep bringing it back to break up the rust, this is the same thing you do with a tap to cut new threads in a new hole, take it forward a little and bring it back to clear things out. Then I saw and felt that the bolt was easier to turn and so I tried taking it farther without the second wrench to bring it back, and I could tell that there was no more binding of the bolt just a little resistance. I was careful to go slow making sure I didn't feel any new binding, but it just kept coming out like it should and it got easier.
When the bolt finally came out it was covered with rust, and I am sure that if I had just wrenched on it without using the back up method it would have broken off at the beginning of the threads in the block. The back and forth method was only possible by the design of the extractor tool, I have other extractor tools and my friends have others that I could have tried but they all could not have done the back and forth method because they are designed to turn one way and will slip in the other direction. To remove the bolt from the tool just reverse the ratchet and hold the tool with an adjustable wrench.
This is #HowWeDoIt to make videos and the tools we use:
Cameras:
#Samsung smart phones J7
#yi M1 mirrorless camera with 12 - 40 mm lens
Video Editing:
Software:
Open Office
#Filmora
GIMP 2
Hardware:
Dell Inspiron 5570, 16 GB RAM