Watercooled Build Conversion Guide - Step by Step

[@purefucknmetal]

Awesome video dude! I'm planning to do my first water cooling loop this year. Your entire channel has been a big help! Keep it up!

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏 I genuinely appreciate that the content is helpful. I plan to produce more videos and will do my best to continue to improve on them. Thanks again for watching

[@splindizzle5413]

Great video and tips as always , thanks a lot ! I also bought the Primochil RFB, cant wait to try it out.

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏The RFB is really nice for dialing in runs. Since the hacksaw is so rough and thick, and the deburring tool is anything but perfect, it's typically really hard to get small runs near bends or to get really precise. The RFB solves that and it solves it really nicely. It gives leeway as I don't need as precise measurements, which are difficult. I can get something close and then fit the run and then shave off some length here and there to really dial it in. Thanks again and hope that helps

[@vectornetwork]

Please enjoy watching 🙏

[@TotemManVooDoo]

Love you videos! So informative and well made. I’ve been watching your other videos as well and do have a question. I just built a watercool PC running a 4080 super tuf with Alphacool core. Your previous video shows temperature of 56C under load. I did a stress test in mine and it was running 75+ C!! Something is not right. Do you think I have to check the paste or thermal pads? Any suggestions? Thanks

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏 Hm, I would expect lower temps, especially considering that the 4080 Super isn't that hard to cool. What is your cooling setup? Rad/fans? Anything else in the loop? If everything else seems normal, then I would check the paste and the contact from the mount. Is this GPU core temp? I wouldn't worry about the pads unless it's memory or VRM. Hope that helps

[@TotemManVooDoo]

@@vectornetwork I am running two 360 radiator and 1 240 radiator. 3 exhaust fans too and 5 intake fans. Nothing special in the loop. According to HW Monitor, that it core temperature and hot spots hits 100+ C!! Ahhhh!!! My room ambient temperature is 21-22C.

[@tpfeiffer1986]

same cpu and gpu here plus the mora. the performance of this beast is impressive. no need for future upgrades xD

[@sinamon_stick_8079]

Awesome! Started

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏 Thank you friend and thanks for watching.

[@expert8665]

Would the gpu block benefit by using gelid thermal pads?

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏My experience is that if the memory is running hot, I'll do anything to cool it. That includes nice thermal pads. But if the memory is running fine and at a temperature that is cool, I wouldn't pay more to chase incremental improvement. That is my perspective and hope that helps

[@Custom_PC_Keebs]

🙌

[@jesc2072]

Can you try converting an aio into a custom loop?

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏I never considered doing that, but I can see how that may be useful with so many closed loop AIOs floating around that aren't really useful. I think that would be an interesting project, but I haven't considered doing that because I never tried and also because there is already so much content I'm working on all at once. But I do think that is interesting now that I'm thinking about it. Thanks again

[@brucewaynevalley2668]

Something I dont understand is why buy a ROG strix model card thats known for its cooling features for the extra price just to disamble it and put a waterblock on it anyways

[@blbhansel8226]

if i may ask , so u pass hot water from the GPU Block to the CPU block , pls i am trying to water cool and trying to understand if i can pass water to the GPU block and return it to be cooled and then the cooled water to the cpu block to the rad and to the tank , and by that do i need a distro plate , also one more question , can i have more than 1 pump in a build ( example of a radiator fan setup that comes with a pump and tank and also distro plate that comes with a pump and tank , is it possible ? ).

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏 I'll do my best to answer your questions. Loop order doesn't matter. The water temperature equalizes fast enough to make this not matter. You do not need a distroplate. 1 pump is enough but you can have more than 1 if you would like. Hope that helps

[@blbhansel8226]

@@vectornetwork thanks for the reply

[@booboo699254]

Major leak at 14:52 ! On the right side of the of the horizontal tube.

[@13BulliTs]

Dang and that after all the OCD secure step by step. btw talking about OCD, saw that he didn't clean the dust particles at 10:15

[@guidobyfredo]

The problem with liquid cooling. even the pros got it leaking

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏 Ah, you saw it. I'm sure more than one eagle eye'd viewer would see it. This highlights why all of this is hard to film. I had already set everything up a first time and did a leak test with water already, but was not expecting the water to almost immediately make its way from the reservoir to the GPU block and I didn't have the camera focused on the block (it was focused on the reservoir), so the initial fill of the block was blurry. Do I continue and live without a good initial fill shot or do I redo it all? I only have a moment to think about it and then decide to redo it. However, when I was ready to re-shoot the footage, I simply could not get the GPU block completely dry without having dissembling it again or waiting a few more days for it to naturally dry (even with a fan blower, it wasn't drying). I already it disassembled it once when I wasn't confident in re-using the foam spacers, do I completely dissemble the front now again, just to wipe away some water droplets? In any case, I did not, so that is why you'll see the block isn't perfectly clean when the fill is done. Separately, onto your comment. So, having already done the fill twice, I see the leak and it's like that "this is fine" meme where the house is burning down. Rather than trying to figure out how that happened, I just quickly replaced the fitting and cleaned up all the liquid while trying my best not to move anything as I was going to try to salvage the footage. So, footage was salvaged, nothing was moved too much, so I was able to kind of stitch the shots together and smooth it out. I made a note to either crop out the liquid drops or edit out the frames or digitally cover it, but I completely forgot and I didn't notice it on the final review(s). So, long story short. Leaks (and splashes) happen. Its particularly hard in this scenario because I got these gloves on and trying to install these runs while not trying to have too much unnecessary movement and smooth manner for the camera. However, leaks happen, it's why the leak test is done with water is done without anything powered on. I plan on including a leak test with air in the future. I had tried it out for this build but the footage wasn't great and I still trying to figure out how to show it, so I have to use it a few times more. In any case, thanks for watching and thanks again for commenting

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏 I left the whole leak story when I replied to the other comment. I did check out the part you linked and, oh wow, hm, those were not the type of particles I was expecting. Not a bad thing though. It seems like the standard is slightly higher than I realized, but nothing I can't try to meet. I can certainly do a better job of cleaning up the components (and the work space). I sometimes redo footage if it looks particularly bad when the shots are reviewed on the computer (it's hard to see until that point). I'll make more of an effort to make sure things are wiped down and the compressed air duster is used, etc etc. Thanks for the feedback and for viewing!

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏You're flat out right my friend. It's why the leak test with water is done without any components plugged in/powered on. I left the whole leak story when I replied to the other comment. I do plan incorporating a leak test with air in future video, hope that helps and thanks for watching!

[@TheBenchmarkNerd]

Great video bro keep it up :)

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏I appreciate the encouragement and I will do my best to produce more videos and to make improvements with each new video. Thanks again and thanks for watching

[@TheBenchmarkNerd]

@@vectornetwork no problem bro keep doing what your doing man and have a great day bro ;)

[@Justifier]

Greatly appreciate all the videos you put up on watercooling, would love to see a few future builds including ram cooling: the entire process from which ram kits to favor for the process, deshrouding the kits, and the temp deltas with your presentation style would be a great resource to share about

[@matacachorro4090]

Very nice video

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏Thank you friend. I sincerely appreciate that you watched.

[@SvalbardSleeperDistrict]

As someone looking to get into custom loops, I appreciate details shown in this. They help with learning principles of custom cooling a lot, even if I'm planning to do it on SFF scale.

[@000hitec000]

Informative video, thanks for the content. What do you think about external radiators? Do you want to try to make a video about it?

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏 You're in luck. The episode on the external radiator is the most popular video on this channel. Here it is, enjoy: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hmG6lJV-jJ6ersksi=BkDeCUWIg3PhwLCV

[@kingcrackedhen3572]

I’m jelly of your screwdriver

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏 Haha! Eagle eye'd viewers. I enjoy the Noctua Branding and the LTT Screwdriver genuinely impressed me. It's a fancy indoor ratcheting screwdriver but it has overtaken all my other screw driver tools. I was not convinced on purchasing the LTT Screwdriver because there was an obvious price markup. But, once Noctua signed off on the product (Wow, considering what they put their name on), I was fine with paying the upcharge for Noctua branding. Turns out, I'm happy with it. Hope that helps

[@BrunodeSouzaLino]

Noise measurements should be performed with the meter installed at a fixed point and some distance away from the object you're measuring. By hand holding the microphone right next to the glass, what you're picking is a mix of handling noise and glass vibrations, not the sound from the case fans in the room, especially considering nobody uses their PCs with their ears right against the case.

[@vectornetwork]

Thanks for your comment 🙏 You're flat out right. The acoustics portion of the testing can use improvement. Currently, it is sort of just there as it may be better than not having it at all. It's also why I didn't include that data on the chart, but just narrated it. As an improvement, I plan on having a fixed location and having a way to have the data provided to me, time stamped, like all the other data. For the testing, I noticed that the reader was picking up noise and I provided an "average range" as I really didn't have the data in front of me but just the footage. To compensate for this, I was showing onscreen exactly what I was looking at. For comparison (on the watercooled build), rather than turning up the fans so it was approximate something in the low 30s, I turned them down until it wasn't picked up at all by the reader. So, now we had more distinct situations and is why the temps weren't really that much lower, fans were really on fairly low. I'm in the process of developing a better method for acoustic testing. I appreciate your feedback and thanks again for your comment.

[@TechBasic111]

Wwhat a leak, right close to the pump, wow

I honestly to see too much of a benefit.