We Installed A Floating Toilet...and THIS NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED!!

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[@josefbry]

When installing a toilet on uneven tiles, in Europe, they usually provide a thin (3-4 mm) foam rubber gasket that is placed between the toilet and the wall. If no gasket is provided, I use foam that is typically used under floating floors. If the surface is uneven and ceramic, this method is preferable. The reason is simple-if the tile is uneven, the toilet will press on one spot, increasing the risk of the toilet breaking. This gasket levels the unevenness and significantly reduces the risk of cracking the toilet or the tile.

[@leviathanx0815]

European here. You forgot the decoupling sheet behind the hanging toilet. Next to noise reduction, this will also close/minimize gaps resulting from uneven tiles behind the toilet. It is a 3mm thick sheet of foam with precut holes for the bolts, inlet and outlet. It comes typically in square size and then is cut to shape when the toilet is tightened to the wall. Silicone is necessary in any case. If you, for example, look up a German toilet installation video, you'll see what I mean, if my explanation was a bit unclear.

[@mrdolby]

Totally correct. Also you want the toilet to move, you do not want a static non moving seal. Eventually the grout will crack because the toilet will still move.

[@gubbernl]

Another European guy here, sitting on his hanging toilet😊 Indeed (only) foam + kit! I suppose the button plate is mounted too low. (The whole toilet frame is mounted too low). Should be well above the opened toilet seat cover. Mine is about 2 inches, so you don't scratch it when opening the seatcover And a pro tip (I didn't see what was in the wall, maybe I missed that) is this: When you sit on the toilet, the wall will pushed inwards, on the lowest tipping point of the porcelain pot. That's because the wall behind the tiles is only 15 or 18mm plywood (I hope you didn't use plasterboard) and a frame. So, put some bricks in the frame + cement to close the gaps between the old wall and front. Then in 5+ years, the toilet is still sturdy.

[@michaelsparks6084]

Sounds like the thing to do but not sure it would take the flex out of toilet bolts. I was not a fan of the grout remedy but as long as they are that’s what matters. I think I would have considered putting a shim between the wall and toilet out of sight and used some siliconized grout on the seam. American here. 😉 Also California Plumbing Contractor for 30 years

[@mrdolby]

@@michaelsparks6084 it’s not really the Bolts that are flexing, it’s has more to do with the uneven tiles and probably the construction behind the drywall. However some flex is ok and will be taken care of with the foam. The washer sounds like a good idea but actually isn’t. This will lead to a point load that might result in a cracked tile or damaged toilet. Normally the weight is distributed through the bolts and the toilet sitting flush with the wall.

[@michaelsparks6084]

@@mrdolby yeah, I agree you have valid points, although if I had more time and my wife wasn’t insisting I put down my phone, we would have a more in depth conversation. Thanks for your input!

[@RCLapCar]

Please please please install the bumper piece on the door edge (Rad give it back). Even with your gap if that door ever picks up speed it has a chance of slamming the edge of the glass into the porcelain and you have a glass pile instead of a door

[@JasonCarr1979]

That or some other bumper type of material at both the top and the bottom.

[@roncurry2891]

I added a Toto wall hanging toilet. No remote. Walk in curbless shower. Our mother-in-law was in her 90s with Alzheimer’s. Anyone that has had to clean up around floor mount toilets daily can appreciate a wall hanging toilet.

[@peter-pg5yc]

Nice after radiation treatment.. if youve had it you know

[@pedrosmits]

24:18 we use a gasket in between the wall and the toilet. They are oversized, you cut the around the toilet after the montage. It protects both brittle sides.

[@tamberine]

Pops was so happy about that grout sitting sturdy!

[@lanceadkins883]

I had the same problem with those studs not staying in place! After trying a few things, I found that wrapping some Teflon tape around the ends gave just the right amount of friction to keep them at the perfect depth. Super simple and worked like a charm! Definitely worth a try if you're stuck.

[@OneDown5Up]

I was thinking blue loctite

[@dperreno]

Also, he could just use a right angle screwdriver to hold the stud from rotating while he tightens the nut.

[@Ke0hwo]

Little pipe dope will do the same

[@dollyhadbraces9361]

mar the threads w small channies. don't jump on a wc barefoot .

[@StonemanRocks]

I built a shower once that was like nautillus shape so no shower door needed! You walked in a semi circle into the shower with a curved dressing bench against the wall before entering the shower! Nicest shower I ever built!

[@powderdescent]

That’s cool!!

[@Thee-AmateurAn94]

Yup not sure why more showers aren’t built this way

[@PerkinsBuilderBrothers]

Watching from the lake this weekend… Love the flops, Rad! 

[@BZ1340]

3 things on the shower door install. I never use the screws for the guide block. I silicone it down and tape it in place till it sets. 2. I always use the 2 silicone fins you didn’t use. The major one on the glass door edge that meets the tile. Cause you know that door will eventually slam against the tile . 3. The back edge door seal stops any chance of water leaving the area. I think I’ve done approx a dozen of these door installs.That’s my experiences..

[@peter-pg5yc]

i agree door install wrong. water will go onto floor.. I have seen it all too often people dont think thru project. I had 12 homes every bathroom leaked. even a million matters not.

[@truthdefenders-]

@stud Pack Leave about an inch gap on the grout behind the toilet at the bottom so that you can have a drain point in case of leak so it lets you know right away.

[@tommyhammer4389]

100% agree. Always do that with floor toilets too.

[@Windiguana]

Yup, gap in the back for floor mounted, gap on the bottom for wall

[@bcroswell]

You aren't joking about not putting tempered glass on tile. Eons ago I worked at an arcade. I had to take the tempered glass out of a pinball machine and I set it on the cold tile floor. A few seconds later it made the most horrible screech and then "exploded" into tiny glass cubes.

[@Mboy245]

What was the pinball table by chance?

[@bcroswell]

@@Mboy245 Simpsons. This would have been late 80s early 90s

[@cineaste1969]

I used to install vynil windows and doors. The old doors we had to put into a large trash can. I thought the old sliding glass doors would break so we could fit more in. We hit it with hammers and crow bars and they did not break! The only thing we could do is hit them on the corner and then they would shatter into tiny pieces.

[@poeticsilence047]

​@@cineaste1969weakest point of tempered glass is those corners. Get you every time. Of course, or a fine point strike like the hammers we have now.

[@LykeArgy]

I worked in a furniture warehouse and 1 day we were trying to match some old returned pieces to get a full one and one of the coleagues super gently put the table top on a concrete floor and it exploded haha

[@nylonstringninja]

The last bathroom I built I used a rolling adjustable bypass door like that because I was out in the country and it is what I could drive in and pick up at Lowes on sale. I had to install it backwards due to my layout also. It definitely works, but you can't squeegee the part of the fixed glass that is always covered by the door when it is all the way closed, and I think you are underestimating the amount of water that will get in there with the gap facing the showerhead, especially without the sweep. After living with that for a couple years I decided with the bathroom I am building now to order a precut hinged tempered glass frameless door and a fixed panel so I can rinse and wipe the glass every time to make sure it is always crystal clear. That is a fussy toilet, I don't trust the cantilever, but I do like the open floor and the ease of cleaning under and around the toilet. Part of the fun of custom building is deciding where to prioritize practicality and where to prioritize design.

[@TheStevedie]

I love the look of a glass shower door but I will never install another one. They are impossible to keep clean. I also had an area between the two panels that you could not reach, it obviously always looked bad even after cleaning. The rest of the glass wasn't much better. I'd only consider a glass door again if the glass is at least 3 or 4 feet from where the water is landing and if its not a bypass door. Maybe then it will be manageable to keep clean.

[@nylonstringninja]

@@TheStevedie I build them with a whole house water softener installed, do a rinse with a hand shower every time; with the soft water it won't spot, then silicone car squeegee the shower every use. They will stay pretty clean that way it just takes some extra work. But there isn't an easy way to clean between the panels on a slider system if your panels bypass that much. Additionally I haven't had very good luck keeping the panel mounting channels clean and sealed. I'd rather have the glass panels with brackets sealed directly to the tile. You can order custom panel and door sizes from glass warehouse.

[@moonpiespotlight4759]

@@nylonstringninja Just like you, I keep mine clean by having a full house water softener and clean briefly after every use. 5 years after install (custom glass door hung by pros) it looks the same as the day it was installed. It also has some coating on it to prevent spots and it does a great job.

[@JoseRamos-eu2fo]

Your last sentence sums it all for me! Well stated.

[@peter-pg5yc]

KISS learned it a long time ago. but peoples love the sizzle. Then bitch when it fails..

[@kenk7875]

Not sure if I’m ever going to get used to that bathroom shower hanging soffit light box - but it’s not for me, right? :) Glad Jordan likes it, keep up the good work!

[@digi3218]

Does it still have matching led RGB lighting to the shower niche? I think it's cool

[@anonymous..-]

Dust collector.

[@rodmills4071]

Shame the shoddy stone work is still biting you in the arse....

[@nicholas4839]

I would not fell safe under it would never take a shower in it ever I would use the garden hose

[@digi3218]

@@nicholas4839 this one is lighter.. the mounting hardware is more than enough to hold it. It could probably hold four people on it lol

[@MikeHarris1984]

Use ceramic coating for vehicles on that glass before you shower the first time and renew it every 6 months!!! Thank me later! No hard water buildup or stains. Just squigie after every shower and you will have sparkling glass every time

[@mattsanchez4893]

Really enjoy how well you work with your son(s)!

[@grand04gt]

If you have the same issue with the wall studs take a flat screwdriver bit (like the hex one you use) put it on a ratchet that way you can stick it in that opening and unscrew the stud while the toilet is still there. Great job as always hope the next one goes smoother

[@hjetwd]

wall hung toilets are pressed against the tile through a special foam pad (if you can't buy one, you can replace it with a foam laminate underlay, but not polyester). After pulling the toilet to the wall through the pad, it is cut at an angle along the edge, and the gap is filled with sealant in the color of the toilet

[@rippelz1]

The main time the sweeps make a difference in our shower is when using the handheld sprayer to wash the soap off the glass. The sweeps make it nice so I don’t have to be careful when rinsing off the shower door.

[@craigchatterton4164]

The sweeps have another benefit too, they're great to send after Optimus Prime.

[@garystuart226]

Hi, watching from the UK and really enjoy every new episode , I spent 40+ x years fixing heating systems , underfloor radiant etc , so working on constructions sites and houses for many years i can see that’s it’s very evident of the huge amount of pride that u take and if something is wrong u fix it to ur excellent standards , at the end of the day u work so dam hard to get the 1st standards to then be let down with products or in the case of the shower the installers , think all of us felt ur pain from behind the screens as that must of really hurt seeing the tiles the way they were left 😭, ur an amazing team and can’t thk u enough for always taking the time to share how things should be done, , please stay safe and well and that u dont get more issues with products , lastly may i say all of u are an asset to the industry of how things should be done , Gary

[@HawaiianNeal]

I’ve installed those bathroom shower doors myself and every time I see it I cringe from experience. They are extremely heavy for anyone to install by themself!! Almost blew out my back and luckily I didn’t shatter the glass! Much respect for those who installed these.

[@Windiguana]

The grout was absolutely the right way to go. A lot of folks use that trick for mounting toilets on uneven floors, no reason it can't work on a wall as well. Thumbs up from me.

[@Windiguana]

So I typed this up after seeing folks with wall hanging toilet experience saying to use a special neoprene gasket/sheet, so my question is what the difference between the wall hanging and floor mounted, because I've used grout with great success for floor mounted and seen a lots of folks do so to.

[@Mribs2011]

Seems to me… instead of taking the toilet off to reset the two bolts which you measured perfect the first time,… hold them in place using the slots provided while tightening the nuts. 😊

[@GuamanianHarmonLoop]

Instead of using grout I would have used 60 Durometer Black Neoprene as a gasket between the toilet and the tile. It would snug the toilet to the dense rubber and to the tile. Prevent any liquid from getting behind the toilet. The recommended torque for tightening the nuts on a floating toilet is between 8 Nm and 12 Nm.

[@Mr572u]

Toilet seat top bangs on the wall controls. Didn’t see that coming!

[@PeNGuiNZoMbiEUYA]

Yeah that’s a huge miscalculation

[@turboflush]

I like the grout idea.. But would have left a one inch bit at bottom open. Leak indicator or even let water from cleaning out.

[@evan-edstrom]

Welcome to the Toto bidet club! You'll love it. The dryer set higher than midway will char something.

[@ronaldescobarjr9594]

I install shower enclosures often. I like to use a 3/16 spade bit for drilling the tile. I can pin point the exact spot I want to drill. Also I do the same thing with the impact driver. On and off on the trigger. That helps the phillips bit from slipping out and stripping. Keep on with the good work. Thank you for all the great videos.

[@ncooty]

Would it be worth putting a couple of bumpers on the shower wall where the door closes, just so it _can't_ hit the wall?

[@oldtimefarmboy617]

Have you ever seen the screwdriver tip designed specifically for the screw for electrical connections on receptacles and switches and other stuff? It looks like a combination phillips and straight screwdriver tips and the work very very good because the fit perfectly and will not pop out when tightening the screws.

[@StudPack]

I actually have one on order (Klein of course😃) looking forward to using it

[@gad3iii532]

Love that you show all the issues and how you deal with them! That's real life! On the toilet bolts my thought would have been to use one of those little L-shaped screwdrivers to put in the slot of the bolt while turning the nut with the wench.

[@billvojtech5686]

If not that, use thread lock adhesive when setting the lengths of the studs.

[@pauld8883]

I just installed the exact same Ove shower door a month ago. I inadvertently shattered the door while installing. I now feel your nervousness every time i hang glass shower doors now. I wish i saw your video before i installed mine

[@alastairdallas]

@0:44 I LOVED the way the new channel name had to be dubbed. That made me laugh.

[@Eric-eg2op]

I think he said, "More Studpack"

[@krallopian]

@@Eric-eg2op Yup super secret spy skill of lip reading confirms this! ... also that shortly after I noticed that he mentions "More Studpack" :D

[@jeebs2002]

I really like the way the bathroom is coming together. Very modern and fun.

[@MichaelJohnson-jt5cu]

Good investment in the ceramic cutting hole saws and bits, having the right tools for each project makes for a professional job.

[@Collin326C]

the barn door bar that you cut that was too heavy to be aluminum and not magnetic like steel is more than likely stainless steel, especially if it's meant for a wet environment. being that its mildly magnetic could mean it is an alloy for lesser quality, probably 409, which can still surface rust but doesn't usually rot away like regular mild steel can. you can treat it like mild steel in the sense of what tools to use on it (like you did with the sawzall), but you may notice it wear things out a little quicker than mild steel would. the more you know. love the videos and the build series

[@wotterthose4511]

You will want the sweep between the two pieces of glass. Having spent plenty of time in hotels with these doors, water will ABSOLUTELY make it through that whole gap without it

[@Mr.Saltwater]

ALOFT I'm guessing. Especially the horrible job they do on their newly acquired properties. I'd rather stay at a Fairfield.

[@StonemanRocks]

@@wotterthose4511 i agree completely!

[@tomtom2719]

I install them but let the homeowner know they're removable...cya

[@tullgutten]

And it will reduce water staining on the glass on a hard to clean spot

[@gonzos-twin]

Hes a hack, its sad this gets recommended

[@NeonSphinx89]

Good tips. If you have an offset flathead screwdriver (or stubby flathead) and wrench you can hold the stud stationary while you tighten the bolt. Just like you'd do for intake/exhaust valves on some engines when adjusting them. I would also leave the grout out of the very bottom of that toilet base. So if there's a leak inside it has a path to escape, just like caulking the base of a regular toilet and leaving the back open.

[@oldhongkong565]

I have installed the sane brand toilet, Toto, but a slightly different model, it also move slightly even screwed tight, exactly the same problem as yours. I used silicone to seal the joint gap and it's holding so far. But I prefer your method of using tile adhesive and I think it will hold. The tile adhesive at the the lower part of the toilet bears the compression force and stops the toilet from moving.

[@MoneyManHolmes]

Was a foam gasket included to place between the wall and toilet housing?

[@oldhongkong565]

@@MoneyManHolmes Not with Toto, but I did used a 1mm thick rubber sheet as buffer. I do know the other brand Gebreit do include one, though. Either way, that foam gasket can only fill the joint gap but I don't think it can stop the toilet from flexing.

[@pp-bf2ec]

@@oldhongkong565 It supposed to have tiny amount of flex.

[@walnutcontractors5661]

I did the CT426cfg(t40) it came with the foam. The mounting process was much worse, allen key from the underside to tighten the little cars that attach to the studs. After cutting back the foam, trying to silicon around the porcelain bevel in one smooth motion while going around the corners was very difficult in getting a perfect caulk line. I used composite shims at the bottom interface of the bowl and the wall as the top has the bolts holding tight to the wall but the bottom wants to lever against the wall when you sit on it and it moves too much. Putting the shim between the bottom gap and tile allows for a minute amount of flex but not the default crazyness. My tile backerboard is drywall though so the wall was lacking some rigidity as well.

[@richardstone5958]

Cracked up when you guys couldn't open the toilet hood!!! Made my day. Glad no one had to use it quickly!!!!

[@ihikefar]

To each his own but man I’m liking my chair height Kohler Highline so much better now. Easy install and bombproof flush.

[@styverdyver]

Recently had my bathroom remodeled. Contractor did a great job. However, i saved some $ by installing the same sliding glass door that you installed myself with the help of a friend. Went with a floor installed toilet tho! Nice work, and adjustments to get that toilet right!

[@pbv61]

Looking at the shower, iI had a though you might want to consider putting gray caulk in the corners. Seems the white really stands out but gray would tend to have the walls blend into each other.

[@prestonlane6253]

Finally, a use for that weird right angle flathead screwdriver that I got from Sears 30 years ago. It could hold that stud in place while tightening the nut.

[@scotto40]

Jordan, I love the way Paul just ignored your “one crack on the toilet “ comment.

[@moonpiespotlight4759]

There were a lot of opportunities to demonetize that video

[@jasonsongs7678]

i died laughing when he made that joke. what a good joke.

[@lyndawilliamson8543]

I absolutely luuuuv watching Studpack!!! You are my Sunday night treat. I've been following you for about 2 years and just love what you guys are doing together as a family unit. You guys are so great and it's obvious that you are all devoted to each other in a very close family way. I don't know how you are going to build Justin's main house and redo Rad and Summer's house all at the same time but that will keep you producing youtube videos for some time to come. I'm a do it yourselfer and I love getting tips and tricks from Paul, the Master.

[@StudPack]

WOW thanks

[@URKlewless]

When you’re using slabs that big never finish the wall behind it so you can move the plumbing if necessary. I do this even when I don’t use huge slabs

[@bradley3549]

What if the plumbing is on an exterior wall, as is the case here? Hard to avoid it then.

[@Victoria.Gold247]

You got a clean cut on the porcelain, but in the future, you should try and use water when cutting almost all stone. You’re really lucky those bits were so well made, because stone can crack pretty easy. Its gets really hot when all that diamond creating so much friction. Using water will also prolong your bits. But overall you guys did an excellent job and It looks great!

[@4acrehome168]

I love the house. But I gotta say. I hate everything about the bathroom 😅😅

[@CatlikeSaturn53]

Nice Install on the Shower Door Guys! I love watching the videos, and seeing what I do for work done by someone else is always interesting to watch. I do want to say that small seal that goes along the edge of the door on the handle side. I always put it on just in case someone shuts the door a little too hard and the glass comes inContact with the shower wall on the bottom. I've actually had a customer shatter the door this way, and that seal creates a secondary barrier to protect the glass, especially if that door stop on the Header bar ever fails/loosens over time. But it does look like you have a decent gap there, I wouldn't be worried if you made sure everything was tight! Great job guys !

[@AprilRaine60]

I was hoping you all are feeling okay because you all look a little "flushed!"🤣😅😂😆🚽🚽🚽🚽🚽

[@UpcraftConsulting]

I have installed a bunch of these doors. On the curb door track fastener, I do not even screw it down, instead I use a strong 2 part epoxy between the tile and the track especially if attaching to a fiberglass shower base I hate drilling into those.

[@srichar879]

The boys need to wear real shoes like Paul. No more flip flops!

[@GuamanianHarmonLoop]

They are certified bonehead truckers. Flip flops and soda water.

[@angazi1341]

I installed one of these shower doors about 7 years ago, install went great, till later that night it shattered…manufacturer said 1 out of 100 have stress in the panels and can break. They sent a new panel pretty quick and has been great since

[@Ian_Burt]

That advise about how tight to make a toilet. I have broken exactly one toilet in my life, exactly one. You never forget the feel of that tightness just before it broke.

[@poopandfartjokes]

Broke my very first one and never again. It goes “tink!”

[@JobeStroud]

Same. I felt so bad when it happened!

[@ccvideotech]

That extra sweep will help with water spots in between the glass panels that you won't be able to reach to clean.

[@conniesisco6468]

It seems weird that the lid covers the flush buttons on the toilet.

[@VortechBand]

I guess the thinking is that you're supposed to close the lid before flushing to prevent nasty stuff from splattering around the room. And with that space age toilet, I guess it happens automatically with a delay at the press of one button :)

[@brucestorey917]

I install wall-hung toilets on an almost daily basis - all brands and styles. Even if your carrier kit doesn’t come with nuts to lock the rods to the carrier, you must use nuts to jam the rod to the carrier so the rod doesn’t spin in like it did for you, and it also stiffens the rods so the don’t move up, down and sideways, causing the toilet to pull away from the wall like yours did. I have had to go back on o many wall-hungs installed by others to fix this problem. The TOTO doesn’t come with back washers to keep the toilet from using the wall as the support for all of the leverage that will be applied to the bowl, so over time, you will see that toilet cracking the tile or bowing the wall out.

[@RealOne-j3f]

I would recommend to put a sound insulation foam behind the toilet. It’s a standard in Europe. After that you can seal it with silicone or lexel instead of using grout

[@UkuleleIsle]

I think it's on an exterior wall. If you can scare your neighbors, give your Gastroenterologist a call!

[@burnte]

Yeah, a bead of lexel inside on the lip, let it half cure, then attach; that’s my suggestion.

[@RealOne-j3f]

It also spread the load on the tiles to prevent cracking the tiles. And the gap will be more even.

[@walnutcontractors5661]

@@burnte Sounds like a mess. Ignoring that you have to mount and unmount this toilet many times before getting it right there is still adjusting the level on it. I suppose if you are prepared to clean as much lexel as they had to clean of grout go for it.

[@burnte]

@@walnutcontractors5661 That's why you wait for the bead to set up. We don't want it as an adhesive, but a rubberish bumper between the two ceramic surfaces.

[@fmort210]

The sweep will help stop the water from getting into the tight 'between' space that will be hard to clean. Minor issue really, plus if the water stains between the glass is something you want to avoid, you can use a narrow squeegee.

[@davepost7675]

Jordan sometime in the future... "Where's the remote? Where's the remote?!?!? I'm browncapping here!"

[@johnscott2076]

Is that the same as prairie doggin’

[@Merescat]

ball-pointing ?

[@phonedave]

Or even just " the batteries are dead in the remote!"

[@bobrub]

I have hung many wall hung water closets as are seen in most commercial Restrooms like Walmart, Target, movie theaters, etc. .... 1st big mistake is not water testing everything that is behind the finished wall BEFORE it is walled in. If not, tear the wall out to fix leaks. 2nd, the all-thread rods the bowl hangs from should be anchored with locking nuts to the bowl "carrier" in the wall so they can't turn (set them out an inch or so longer than needed) and cut them to fit after the wall finish is completed as you are hanging the bowl.

[@TheComando156]

I have never seen a wall mounted toliet that does not seperate from the wall and a gap forms at the wall... especially when you have heavier people using it over time... i usually agree with most of the stud pack teams design decisions... but using a wall mounted one and not a floor one here... long term might give you issues but.... i hope im wrong.

[@darrinlindsey]

The Europeans have been using them for decades.

[@jessennn]

the hanging toilets are standard in the netherlands. one tip: first put the pipes in to the wall(frame) the put the toilet on. And the play that is a common problem. sometimes you have straight tiling but is the toilet not straight on the backside. just fill it up with a filler and silicone it. keep up the good work cheers

[@Wheel_Horse]

Some grades of stainless steel are, in fact, mildly magnetic. I might have missed something... are you going to finish the tile? Or is that jagged 'earthquake look' the newest thing?

[@walnutcontractors5661]

The toto wall mounts are a pain ! You did a great job. I used the foam gasket and some composite shims at the bottom (the top tighten well to wall since that is where the studs are) and then silicon caulk to hide the gasket. I cracked a lower tile first from the toilet applying too much pressure without the shim on a tile that was under back buttered. Fortunately the cracked part is behind the porcelain. I also went brass nipple from the carrier out of the wall but I went with a 1/2 FIP dahl quarter turn to chrome plated copper supply and then back up from 3/8 to 1/2 MIP and then a 1/2" ss coupling and another nipple since the 1/2" MIP on the 3/8 to 1/2 adapter was too short to properly engage the washlet plastic female connector. since my carrier was the older model and the supply was beside the toilet on display. I used a plastic escutcheon that I enlarged the hole so my dahl angle stop could be tight to the wall and have a very minimal foot print. I must have put mine on and off the wall 100 times - a helper would have been nice but up against the tub on one side.

[@miketambini8747]

That toilet was the Bane of Paul's existence! You guys killed it though

[@robertjennings5357]

Love it! Wow, love how you recut the hole in the wall, great technique how you angled it and used the prior side of the hole as a guide and turned it in and made a really nice cut! 😊😊🎉

[@i.m.peterrific]

Finally, someone on KZbin that knows how to wrap plumbers tape the right way off the roll. So many people show the tape coming off the top of the roll and end up looking super clumsy when they are doing it.

[@johnvrabec9747]

I used to have to tape 100+ fittings a day, I'm right handed. Technically, he did it correctly, but there's a better way.

[@i.m.peterrific]

@@johnvrabec9747 Any chance you can explain? I'm always open to learning better ways to do things. I understand if it's just not something for writing, a video tells a million words

[@Fireman2k5]

As a Plumber in Germany i had the same problems on the studs, a little blue tape on the stud so that cant screw that easy and it wont move if you tighten the nut.

[@jeffkinasz3847]

Did you not get a response back from the company that made and installed all of the porcelain shower tile?

[@stargateproductions]

They ghosted them

[@bobbywweaver]

It's so relatable how having the right tool makes the job so much easier. I can't tell you the number of times I've created more work for myself just trying to make it work or save a few bucks and THEN having to go get the right tool in the end. Great job fellas. I'm starting to get excited for the main house now!

[@tii2015]

I thought you said something about the orange thing in outlet hole. I don't recall seeing anything about it after that. What happened?

[@priscillaspears7918]

It just says Do not remove after that.. I don’t believe anything happened because of it.

[@johngiromini5745]

I saw the same thing, so I went back and looked again. What I did not see the first time is this notation at 21:26: "It's a flow control/restricter. DO NOT REMOVE".

[@ponsholm]

I agree, I figured the entire video was about forgetting to remove the orange plug in the toilet. In the end, the end leak result was to simply tighten the fitting above the toilet or did I miss something? What was the fatal flaw?

[@lolife999]

Agree. I was looking for the fatal flaw. Maybe it was using a wall mounted toilet. 🤔

[@rts100x5]

The LEDs look AMAY zing !!! But I really enjoy hearing the stories from "the vault of experience"

[@mattdmartin]

Classic voice over! 😂 Missed the 2nd one at 1:01

[@Palmbeachfoto]

Been planning my bathroom for months, had a wall mount lined up. Last minute bailed to conventional. So happy did. All that plastic is fail city. Euro design but in Europe they actually build them to last. Here is for show.

[@rickatnight11]

"More Studpack" didn't test well?

[@StudPack]

It was actually Sore MudPack 🤕

[@chrisglenn2096]

😂😭😂😭😂😭 That edit was so slick I had to rewind it!

[@YellowBunchofBananas]

@@StudPack BTW you forgot to foley out the second mention when Paul tells everyone to go subscribe.

[@Chicago_Clout]

Please do not wear flip flops when working with glass.

[@StudPack]

@@Chicago_Clout boss said it was alright

[@LuisHernandez-ec3gv]

Would recommend leaving lower end of toilet free of grout 1in opening-will not be visible. It will allow water to leak out if waste seal starts to fail and weap onto the floor instead of getting trapped between toilet and wall.

[@briankowald6465]

I bet if you included the footage of you guys wrestling with that toilet for an hour, most of us would sit here and watch it.

[@devinm9245]

I'm kinda let down we didn't get to see it, the football game on wasn't holding my interest anyways

[@BEECH36]

Might need that piece of plastic in between the doors to stop the cold air. I bet you guys would have done an awesome job on the porcelain install!

[@StudPack]

New Channel is called StudPack2!! There's a link in the description if you have a hard time finding it Gang!

[@BigEasy09]

Subscribed!

[@poopandfartjokes]

The second channel, formerly known as (redacted) 😂

[@cdurkinz]

found it

[@grahambartram7944]

There doesn't seem to be a link in the description, just the Amazon links. I search for Stud Pack on KZbin and found the original channel but no other. Could it be that the channel is only available in the US? I'm in the UK.

[@RCMServices]

Subscribed

[@kenmaira]

I have a similar toto toilet, make sure you clean air filter that's on the right side of the seat, it gets clogged super fast with toilet paper dust.

[@joebufford2972]

If Jordan is go this out on his garage, I cannot wait to see what he does to his house. It must be simply off the charts, call the network TVs. This is going to be big

[@Chris_In_Texas]

You are going to want the silicon strip along the wall side of the sliding door, the reason if those door stops ever move slightly the glass will shatter when the kids slam the doors against the stop. 👍😁 As you pointed out you DON"T want to bang tempered glass on the edges. 💥

[@tjflynn1014]

That sliding shower door needs to be on the outside of the stationary glass panel because where you have your shower head installed. Water will definitely find it's way between the two panels. Trust me, I know.

[@DefinitelyNWYT]

This is truth. Switch the depth of those doors but the exit can stay left. The water is going to spray through that gap.

[@nickp3173]

I agree with this. It's like having your shingles/water proofing backwards.

[@travismounts2290]

The door has to be on the inside because when u open the door to get out the water will run down and out on to the bathroom floor also the way these doors are designed your suppose to install the thrushold on outside not inside of door trust me I’ve been installing shower doors my entire life also the door goes inside so you can see the rollers that’s why they sell the sweep for the door and fixed panel so water doesn’t blow through I wish all my customers felt like the dad about how water will never reach here or there. Some people get carried away

[@Gbfaninnm]

I can already see the future water spots between the two panels. 😮

[@CPO-Snarky]

It looks bass-ackwards for sure.

[@jasonbarrett8655]

I used 1/8" rubber weather stripping around the perimeter of the backside of my ceramic hanging sink on a tile wall. It compressed to a caulkable 1/16 where the sink made contact with the wall, filled in the larger gaps, and cushioned the ceramic-on-ceramic leveraging.

[@ohhhsnap17]

Shouldn't have to grout your toilet to the wall. Will eventually break apart and loosen. With warm and cold cycle of the toilet. Didn't fix the root issue.

[@poopandfartjokes]

Yeah you definitely want a flexible sealant.

[@billvojtech5686]

I think the grout will eventually crack. You may be able to make it more durable by mixing liquid latex into it, but a firm rubber gasket would be my choice. Maybe you can get someone to 3D print one or laser cut one from some sheet good of a material of the right consistency.

[@TonVanExtel]

Here in the Netherlands there is a foam plate for against the wall so that the toilet always fits neatly against the wall

[@Andrew20vt]

As a stone/porcelain fabricator, hitting those anchor inserts into the porcelain with a hammer -Yikes!! Get a scrap and put it in between the hammer and the stone! I enjoy your knowledge and channel but I wouldn’t be setting that example for others.

[@Notipgetsspit]

Love you guys but that grout job is looking a little rough!❤️🤣

[@BenBrand]

Got to know what the original thought for the channel name was before the overdub of " stud pack 2"!

[@cdurkinz]

More Studpack I think.

[@chrisglenn2096]

1:01

[@BenBrand]

@@chrisglenn2096 good catch!

[@garystuart226]

@studpack , hi , live in the uk and follow a uk plumber and he’s fitting a toilet and see u mentioned about the waste collars and wished to share in case it’s of interest to jordon and rad seeing he’s fitting a pan and basin , his name is MJ Tiff plumbing and the title of the video is called , Bathroom remodel , it’s his latest one, have no association to him but after u talking about the toilet collars if it may be interesting to u, thks again , stay safe and well , Gary 👍

[@ringtyler]

$20 bucks says that water is going to find a way out if you're not using the gaskets/sweeps.

[@gonzos-twin]

Its gonna be mold in 3 months

[@michaelbeasley1245]

Hey, stud pack. If you read this, I wanted to share with you how I made a homemade bidet. It's so awesome and works better than that high dollar toilet seat bidet. Cost me around 70 bucks. If I build a house, I will have a hot water line next to the toilet. I would love to show you how I made it.2 angle stops that I would call a double angle shut off, 3 3/8 by 3/8 supply lines, 1 3/8 brass tee , 1 3/8×1/4 male threaded transition fitting and 1 kitchen sprayer with hose. I can adjust temp and pressure separately and have this set up on my hot and cold supply under bathroom sink with kitchen sprayer coming through my pony wall on side of sink. And 1 towel hook . To hang kitchen sprayer on .

[@anoopster]

Your videos convinced me that it's not worth getting a wall mount toilet. How many times you took that bowl off that wall? How many people did you need to help? How many specialty parts are there? That wall control assembly is a hot mess. I have little faith that any of those several connection points won't leak or fail. Is that seriously $2500?!?!? Buy a Toto and sleep better at night.

[@jeffogden6060]

That IS a Toto.

[@nocilor]

I think you might need a form pad or something between the toilet and the wall? Otherwise the vibration or weightight crack the tile.

[@RCMServices]

The diverter valve body looks like it is recessed to far in the wall. It was a shame that the fabricators did such a poor job.

[@Andrew20vt]

How is the fabricator responsible for how far the plumbing is in the wall? Thats a plumbing issue. Unless the stone is pushed off the wall by an obstruction like a bowed stud or something.

[@digi3218]

​@@Andrew20vt they are not responsible unless they used too much mortar or something

[@RCMServices]

@@Andrew20vtThat is correct it regards to the diverter valve body. I was speaking in general terms regarding the overall installation. Remember that is why there is the floating soffit to hide where the tiles meet the sloped ceiling. I will admit it is a very difficult design to pull off using large format tile.

[@Mikey__R]

​@@RCMServicessure, but everything was measured out using lasers. Everything about the porcelain install is just, like, how did that even happen?

[@RCMServices]

@@Mikey__R If you go back 3 months ago, they did an episode about this problem. It seems to be that the guy doing the measuring with the laser didn't understand the sequence of the panel installation causing some problems. Not quite sure how the height issues came about.

[@daleseger4215]

A hint for you. Put some nail polish on the wall studs on the end going into the wall, install the studs, and set to the length. Do it early enough for the polish to set. This allows you to tighten the nuts without turning the studs. The nail polish will break if the studs needs to be removed and it may break loose when tightening.

[@moonpiespotlight4759]

It makes sense you missed the stud, they didn't move that porcelain panel far enough to the left. That's why all the holes were off to the right.

[@aaronsvoboda5897]

Ohh shit that's true! Didn't think about that

[@moonpiespotlight4759]

@@aaronsvoboda5897 In retrospect though, I am not sure the shower curb was set below double 2x6/4. I say this because the backer board in the shower seems to end before the curb instead of over it.

[@INGWoodWorks]

Maybe you could have of applied a thick bead of clear silicone on the back let it dry then mount it. Or some sort of rubber gasket material that could have been cut for shims.