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We left the last episode cruising into the fading light along the incredible balkan coastline of Croatia. Driving till dark we found a quiet camp spot away from the road down a rocky track with a great view over the inlet. A strong dry easterly was howling up the coastline and the low coarse shrub which covered the landscape provided no protection. We decided to sleep down the bottom and leave the top down; thankfully the temperature had increased significantly since Serbia and we slept comfortably with the back doors open.
The next morning brought clear skies again so ventured back up the very rocky track, on to the coast road, and continued our journey onward to Slovenia. Slovenia, like Serbia, had a mix of information on whether Australians were permitted to enter. Unlike Serbia it appeared we could enter though whether we needed a PCR test with a vaccination was the grey area. Not wanting to unnecessarily pay for a PCR test we trucked on and presented ourselves at the border. Like Serbia, we had no problems again, the border officials didn’t appear to care about anything but seeing our passports and car documentation and we breezed through for our short passage to Italy. Arriving at the Italian border though was a different story. Out of all the borders we’ve crossed in 50+ countries we haven’t encountered one like this. There was no infrastructure, just an armoured personnel carrier, several heavily armed soldiers, and two official looking personnel in flack jackets. They appeared to be letting local traffic through and only pulling over foreign vehicles. The drivers side of the Troopy caught the officials off-guard and they had a laugh at their own expense when they asked Jolie for her drivers license. They took a lot of our documentation and spent some time reviewing it on their make shift office which consisted of a fold up table and a computer in a ‘pelican’ case. Surprisingly this was the most thorough border we had passed since Georgia though after a few further information checks and additional documentation we were good to go. On our limited schedule we planned to traverse Italy in a north-westerly direction to the Col du petit Saint Bernard; a pass over the Alps and into France to an area I lived many years ago. Firstly though, Venice was on our path so it would be remiss not to stop in for the night. To use our hostel method (described in the previous episode) in Venice would require some floats for the Troopy so with that in mind we found a camp ground at the start of the bridge into the city. Rammed bumper to bumper with hundreds of campers for a modest 36 euro per night this place was the place of nightmares (for us haha). It was however perfectly positioned to catch a bus, train, or ferry directly into the city so we accepted the conditions and found our little dirt patch. After setting up we took the bus in to the into city and spent the evening getting lost in the narrow streets and passageways, admiring the incredible architecture, camera down, enjoying the atmosphere.
From Venice we headed north past Milan. We were pushing through some long days driving here; although the architecture in the towns is spectacular there is vast stretches of low lying flat unpopulated farmland and slow moving tractors in between. With seemingly no break between farms and town, possible camp spots were no where to be seen. We pushed on until dark hedging our bets on a nature reserve we could see on Google maps in the far North. Finding a track down to what was previously a birdwatching area we found our gamble didn’t pay off and the entire area had been washed away by flooding. Where the road was blocked was still in the reserve and was flat and peaceful; with no prospect of through traffic it worked for a rest for the night. From here, when the clouds would momentarily part, the Alps were just in sight. We had been monitoring with optimism the weather during our journey towards the Alps though unfortunately the closer we got the more our chance of crossing the pass faded. Winter had decided to arrive early this year and with it already beginning to snow the pass had closed early. The only way across the Alps now was through one of the tunnels, the closest and most convenient to our location was the Mont Blanc tunnel. The 12km tunnel is only single carriage and as a result of the catastrophic fire in 1999 it is restricted to 70km/ph, a minimum distance of 150m between each vehicle, and trucks only permitted in groups of maximum 5 under escort. With all traffic now funnelled into the tunnel a huge bottleneck on the Italian side had formed and we moved at snail pace for about an hour and a half towards the gates.
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