Weld Repair Gone Wrong - Here's why it failed.

[@6061]

I'd like to make a part 2 to this video if someone WHO KNOWS AND HAS HAD EXPERIENCE with successfully welding CAST magnesium can suggest the EXACT rod they used for a similar repair. Please no comments like "try this, I think it would work"... If you aren't 100% sure from your own experience, please don't suggest anything. If you don't know what you're saying, please don't say it. That'll save me a bunch of time sorting through all the self-proclaimed experts regarding this video topic. I want to keep my videos and comments section as straightforward and factual as possible with no misinformation. Thanks for watching

[@oliverschutz7822]

I use Blue Demon ERAZ92A rods in 3/32" for Stihl Chainsaws

[@chrismoerlein]

I used to work at a place where we repaired magnesium aircraft parts. The parts were of a known alloy of course and we welded them with AZ61 filler. Magnesium corrodes like crazy when exposed to the weather. Many of the parts that we repaired were severely corroded. We removed the corrosion and built them back to the original contour. Everything we welded was painted with a green colored coating after welding.

[@6061]

Thank you Chris for the type of rod, and the application explanation. (jeez, that rod is pricey)

[@FLYWHEELPRIME]

Glad this dude is posting again and he's talking now! One of the greatest channels to ever make content, no doubt.

[@erikleonard7964]

This was a great example of knowing when to quit. I'm a wannabe welder and enjoy your practical insight. I'm also a mechanical engineer

[@RonCovell]

Aaron - excellent advice on how to test a part, and on which jobs to say 'NO' to!

[@RyanAUS]

Great video, great message. KZbin needs more 6061!

[@codys_fab]

Great tips as always. Knowing what jobs not to take on is half the the battle. 😂 Sometimes, just because you can weld it, doesn't mean you should.

[@billdlv]

You can also use vinegar to tell if a part is magnesium, clean and sand a sport first. It will bubble up when you pour it on.

[@pekkahelminen7801]

Vinegar will bubble and react on magnesium, on aluminum it wont. Easy and safe test. Az92 filler is what i use for magnesium castings what are unknown for composition.

[@ToharSD]

learning something from each video thank you Aron 💪

[@907jl]

Damn good advice right there.👍

[@mikemike4737]

Thanks for sharing knowledge with us. God Bless.

[@shawn6632]

I remember, a long time ago, hearing the saying, "I never lost money on a job that I didn't take."

[@dunbarautomotive]

Awesome, glad to hear that you are working on a spool gun video.

[@Kik0lOKu]

Tes video sont top, continue je veux la suite !

[@Flash-FX]

At least the part was really clean for the test. Great example!

[@bennyfactr6122]

testing with white vinegar is another go/no-go test for weeding out magnesium casting

[@bobkillion9681]

Battery acid works too

[@rodbender5453]

Great video

[@fearcityfpv7037]

Rooster lollipops! 😅 Great videos as always.

[@davidspin5353]

Man thats a good idea! From now on I'll do this on questionable casting.

[@tomthompson7400]

yep , knowing when to walk away is a good thing.

[@PANTYEATR1]

Sssssspool gun video! Sweet! 😎💪

[@ExpeditionTundraBeast]

Yeeeeeaaaasss spool gun content!!!!

[@thedondy]

If you grind some of the part into dust and it burns bright with a blow torch it’s good chance it’s magnesium. I use ERAZ92A magnesium filler

[@AUMINER1]

3:36 !!! classic!😍

[@LittleAussieRockets]

That's a good tip

[@Cptnbond]

Maybe it's a Zinc-Aluminum Alloy - ZA12, popular because it's so easy to cast.

[@4G12]

BTW, magnesium is never used in anywhere near pure form for practical permanent component applications. Typical "Magnesium Alloy" has very high proportion of aluminium.

[@petersmart1999]

Thank you for the videos!

[@maddog3737]

I have had good luck with az92 on chainsaw casings. You have to wire brush between passes it is a sooty weld. White vinegar will foam on magnesium.

[@robostyle9773]

Great video thank you!

[@GameBacardi]

Thanks, good video.

[@Sleekcustoms]

I’m by no means a master at magnesium but the best of my knowledge az92a is the best all around filler for magnesium and we try to pre heat the part to at least 200 f before welding for best results but the reality is it will or it won’t because you can never know the true amounts of zinc aluminum and magnesium if you dont have the manufactures info

[@richardjones38]

I've seen a very similar mess (except maybe the strange flame colours) when trying to weld parts which I know are aluminium (I've done hundreds of them before), but which someone has cleaned via media blasting with something which leaves media particles embedded in the surface, such as glass. The clean look of this part when it arrive made me wonder what it had been blasted with. I've found the only way to get such parts to weld as they should is to file the surface away where the weld needs to be, exposing the uncontaminated aluminium beneath.

[@thats10guy91]

You can test for magnesium with vinegar, bubbles kind of like peroxide.

[@playharder1435]

I'm a mechanic and I seldom come across any aluminum (cast) parts worthy of being welded back together; maybe a transmission case --- but that's about it. 😢

[@UnconventionalMetal]

Great tip thanks

[@nicoquattro3950]

A while ago I had to repair a 5 speed transmission housing from an old BMW. The rear center mount above the drive shaft flange was broken. Well, it was a nightmare. And now tell someone who has no clue about aluminum welding that there are day and night differences between a good casting and a bad casting.

[@StuPierce77]

He's been talking for a while. Where you been dude?

[@davidhorsley1149]

I could tell, even on video that the casting was pot metal by the tin-ey sound it made against the table. I've never heard of anyone having success welding pot metal. It possibly could be braized with a low temperature brazing rod, but as you discovered when testing, most pot metal contains too many contaminants to successfully weld.

[@РоманШаповалов-у3с]

You can test magnesium with acetic acid. the magnesium will sizzle.

[@jcnpresser]

What about those aluminum brazing rods they have in the hobo freight. I’ve got some of them but never have used them yet. Supposedly you can stick parts together with a low heat torch. Have you any luck or experience with those?

[@chrismoerlein]

Is the part die cast aluminum? Some die cast aluminum alloys contain enough zinc to cause the material to out gas when you strike an arc on it. The zinc vaporizes under the heat of the arc. Have you ever tried to use brass rod with a TIG? It doesn’t work because of the zinc. Silicon bronze contains copper and tin instead of copper and zinc like brass (Everdur?). It can be easily applied with a TIG welder. I have noticed that white metal castings that have the small circles on them are often die cast. I am not sure if these are the places where the molten metal enters the die. I have noticed that a lot of parts that have them are not weldable with the TIG process however.

[@6061]

Hi Chris, I have used brass as a filler rod, have you? kzbin.info/www/bejne/qqnHf4N6nbh4nZosi=rNpDDtGFuj0OBnvI

[@TRiToN219]

Any chance you could have welded that with a magnesium filler? I have a friend who's engine oil pan had a dent and a crack in one spot. The manufacturer (bmw) stamped the alloy designation right into the casting - AZ91. We did a quick test with a drop vinegar just to be sure - it did bubble up when aluminum wouldn't do that. Found the right rod (AZ92) for the job and voila - successful repair. Wanna hear your thoughts on this.

[@TRiToN219]

Although the repair wasn't structural - not a cracked bolt hole, only the smooth surface area that keeps the oil in and debris out. So I can't account for how this type of repair would be successful on somewhere with substantial mechanical stresses.

[@6061]

I ordered some AZ92 rod to try on it. Stay tuned.

[@fastst1]

Similar for a Saturn, a few welding attempts were not going to yeild good results, warmed the part up, a little plastic work to be able to put a vacuum on the crack and inject some jbweld, never leaked a drop. fresh mixed JBW over 120f has a very low viscosity but its cure time gets pretty short.

[@anmain]

@@6061 there is also material AZ61a

[@brglb]

It must be zamak, an alloy of German origin widely used in die-casting in Europe.

[@murmenaattori6]

Zamak is mostly zinc, no way this is that.

[@geewhiz3588]

Thanks

[@nhra7110]

that is a die-casting, and likely Alloy A380 which is very common, and has questionable weldability at best; it can be done, but requires specific filler to even have a chance

[@johnrodriguez473]

Tell them to get a thick fender washer for that bracket

[@h-j.k.8971]

The stuff car manufacturers mold into brackets nowadays is awfull.

[@metalheartmachine]

The pice had an odd ring as well.

[@aotwoh4913]

😂….the rooster and the popsicles…

[@PiazzaWoodWorks]

That’s some good Chineseium

[@paulhammond7489]

know when to say no....

[@ZMO999]

So duct tape eh? 😂

[@workshop593]

👍

[@Kashed]

It’s Chinesium!

[@jamesa7506]

🐔 🍭

[@murdersaab8999]

Well like you said I'm going to go try this Rod try that rod yep oh my God and say try some aluminum bronze to braise it May hold it may not maybe worth a try

[@secretagent8126]

Die cast. No beuno

[@mikecassavant7732]

This is the time for JB WELD, first I would bring a few angled groves into metal at different angles then mix up JB WELD use at least 2 -3 times and push into the groves and then reinforce on top and bottom with little extra. When you cant weld then JB WELD can help.

[@6061]

Hard pass on that suggestion.

[@AndySomogyi]

That’s a weird metal, wonder if it’s has a lot of zinc in it . Those low temp aluminum welding rods at harbor freight are a zinc alloy. I repaired a dirt bike foot peg with it, and the stuff does work well and bonds to just about anything

[@nathkrupa3463]

Great video