Welding My BLOCK TOGETHER on The LS Miata!

We had a pretty big failure that cracked our block where the dry sump mounts. We take the car apart and try to tig weld up the crack in the car so we can get it up and running again. Not without some major issues though.
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Let me know what you thought of this video!

[@jaywest4102]

I’d hate making videos of my work like this. No matter what you do, there will be hundreds of experts telling you how you should have done. Taylor does a great job of troubleshooting, if it doesn’t work he doesn’t complain, just moves on and tries something else.

[@Fantaman900]

Yes everybody does things differently but it's not bad to share information. Taylor can ride the struggle bus. And we with experience in that area can only give him advice. May he struggle less in the future

[@anthonycaccamise4556]

@RB_Tuning everyone is an expert when not risking a paycheck, sounds very pretentious, your "rookie mistake" comment makes me question the author. I could care less of ones "qualifications". A piece of paper is just that.

[@coryhalvorson8874]

Taylor, put belt retainers on the drysump pulley. Jones makes them, you're welcome.

[@scooz14]

I was just about the say the same thing. I ran them on my ls3 race car. Wouldn't even think of running a dry sump without it

[@ShortnStubby]

unless its a guard to completely surround the belt, it wouldn't of helped in this case imo. the belt snapped and then got wrapped up into the dry sump belt and got sucked between the belt and pulley putting extensive force on the mounting bracket and snapping it. long story short, had serpentine belt not snapped dry sump belt never would of came off or broken the mount.

[@coryhalvorson8874]

@@ShortnStubby you are absolutely right, but it's a peace of mind item, they may not have done anything in this very specific instance but belt retainers do work. And on an htd belt that's only 20mm wide it makes me so nervous seeing those run without keepers

[@beyondredline22]

For your speed sensor could you use a factory wheel speed sensor. I run mine through a JB performance varible reluctance conditioner board which gives me a 5v square wave signal.

[@jasonjones6328]

I do?

[@NismospoolinOfficial]

Your dedication and work ethic towards this car and channel is awe inspiring. You da man.

[@eddiereichel9354]

Just pretend the whole engine is a cam bearing. You never check your cam bearings.

[@wheeln24-79]

For your dash break down and get a Holley engine management system. The new ones that are only a grand are well worth it then you can buy the big digital dash like Cleetus has. Seems like tuning is dummy proof with those systems too soo...

[@elliotcarter3016]

Give your harmonic balancer and its bolts a good check, they are notorious for loosening up on the C5 and depending on what front end parts you used you might suffer from the same thing. Guys I autocross with have slung dozens of belts from spirited driving.

[@lb9gta307]

You can get GPS speeometers. They even have HUD ones.

[@davidring2438]

I know it was only running without oil pressure for a few seconds but might not be a bad idea to cut the oil filter open after a little run time and inspect for bearing material .

[@deliverydude7359]

I'd like to see this in a video

[@anthonycaccamise4556]

In this scenario, what would that accomplish other than second guessing. Run it till it quits, not a high dollar set up. Also during an oil change oil starved for couple seconds till pump re primes, not much difference than he experienced. He could also pull the motor and check all the bearings, remove cam etc. Why know?

[@deliverydude7359]

@@anthonycaccamise4556 just for funsies

[@JacobSherritt]

Dude. You totally overcame that bastard obstacle in short order. And didn't get all suicidal about it. Props man.

[@gregandtanyalyons1503]

Why don't you put on an alarm that sounds when oil pressure is low full stop or a big yellow flashing light something to catch your attention your gauges are way too small for oil pressure

[@wildkev1010]

Damn that Raspberry Pi Ben installed in his car is sick! Would love an in-depth video on that and how the set up and how it works

[@jakenbake566]

Hey Taylor just wanted to say love the channel and love the miata build! But to give you an idea on the instrument cluster just go buy a Samsung tablet and one of those obd2 readers off Amazon, use the torque pro app, table has GPS speed and you can monitor a lot of stuff on your motor and set up the gauges however you so please and looks really cool!

[@imtonedeaf1]

make a shield for the oil pump cause belt will fly off again just sayin

[@anthonycaccamise4556]

For future reference, consider replacing bolt with a stud and use a nut. Allows you to epoxy stud in place and can decrease forces on the aluminum threads/ repairs slightly chewd up threads. Also works great on ls exhaust manifolds that tend to warp and make straight thread engagement difficult.

[@lobuk516]

Autometer makes a bright red warning light. I run a 30psi sending unit in mine. If u wanna keep it clean looking, put it in the vent 👍🏾

[@SortaProfessional89]

Bump thissss

[@bradthacker9904]

Thanks to your quick thinking atleast you caught it in time.

[@jordanharvey1820]

Make a bracket from the back bolt on the pump to the engine mount bracket to keep it from happening again. Might help

[@tuurbow]

Keep on keepin' on dude

[@kcbottorf5283]

Seems like you could do electric water pump and oil pump then you could have exact controls of them no belts you could set it to kill the engine automatically if oil pressure drops. Keep it up man awesome work !

[@Darren240sx]

I run a raspberry pi dash in my 1uzfe turbo s14 and i love it. Full tunerstudio from the drivers seat. you can also run autotune and let it dial in the ve table. I love being able to change stuff in the tune while waiting in line for my next run

[@MichaelS537]

Custom LEDs with oil symbol, charge symbol and even rev limit, make a custom holder and put it over the gauge cluster (above it). Make yourself kind of a HUD of warning lights, that way you can see them without looking down.

[@CTemple82]

Keep up the good work, great content.... you built one bad little machine. Can’t wait to see what else you do to it now that your getting it all dialed in. Just don’t tear it up like the Z, Please keep it clean and mean.

[@Marley_S93]

"Sure is a hot one today" - Taylor "YEAH!!" - Me Hopefully someone gets this reference

[@Oztinnieadventures]

It more than likely broke off because the bolt was too short in the first place, a longer bolt going down into the block further adds strength and takes strain off the little nub piece that cracked. Stoked you didn't have to pull the engine again!

[@SirVic42]

That's a pretty sharp observation. There was obviously room for a longer bolt, so maybe that was the intended length.

[@Oztinnieadventures]

@@SirVic42 I'm not an expert by any means, but i was burdened with a mechanical mind...

[@Taylordrifts]

@@SirVic42 Something had to give when the belt snapped. It would have been the pump shaft, the pulley, or the block.

[@CTemple82]

Yeah that’s good insurance, I was just about to say, you should wire in a buzzer alarm for low oil pressure....but then I just decided to watch the whole video first then realized you know what your doing and you’s gots it covered already.😜👍

[@LoneRevD]

You do know you can get a GPS speedo that fits a standard gauge right? It really doesn't care about VSS or hall effect wizbangs. Just thought I'd mention it, glad to see you got it repaired, I'm sure it wasn't a easy fix.

[@bastian9945]

does your trans have some kind of gear selection sensors ? if yes and you make a digital dash from a raspy you could then calculate wheel speed and display it. There probably already is software out there for that kind of usecase. if you want to keep gauges ( i would ) you could even hook the raspi up to that there also is an ardruino version that responds faster then a raspi but dosent offer digital output and tuning utils and stuff.

[@stashtrey1]

Good work dude!

[@clnfreakone8486]

Good job ... welding in tough spots is ... tough for sure

[@MonkeyFabGarage]

Nice cat like reflexes. I gotta be honest, I wouldn’t have thought of the dry sump belt and would have smoked that bizzzzoww

[@CrankingOneOut]

I just got my raspberri pi for my microsquirt dash for my turbo 5.0. I have the mausberry power supply btw that way it sends data to GPIO to turn off the raspberry rather than cutting power and crashing it. Also taylor idk if you can get an ABS miata hub and use that with a wheel speed sensor

[@asparceproton1]

I completely agree that everything should be and seems fine with your engine. But it might be a good time to change your oil and send a sample off to Blackstone. They'll be able to tell you how much bearing material, if any, is present in your oil. As far as digital dashes, you should look into some of the nicer 7" options such as the AIM MXS or the AEM CD7. The numbers and complexity of alarms you can set is really neat, they're visible in direct sunlight, and they have really versitile dash design software.

[@MarkDavies4281]

I'd recommend fitting an oil accumulator to give you a the safety net if this happens again (I hope it never does) and also install a low pressure alarm say 10lb that's loud! To alert you this coupled with an accumulator could save any damage in future

[@VindicatorFFXI]

That ECU your using... doesn't it have built in fail-safes...like if it detects low oil pressure....it insta kills the motor

[@_Bonez12]

VindicatorFFXI he’s using a factory GM pcm

[@ale6242]

engine will still spin if its in gear... its a manual

[@VindicatorFFXI]

@@_Bonez12 I was thinking it was a standalone....guess I was thinking that's what those fancy non relay switches fed into

[@VindicatorFFXI]

@@ale6242 yes...motor will spin if he is in gear...luckily he didn't have the engine under load went the belt slung....a failsafe would save him from being under load if the oil psi suddenly dropped

[@chasefroning]

I felt your pain for the welding positions lol definitely do the warning mods you mentioned on the cluster for comfortably

[@2CabrasLocas]

Good job on Mcguivering that block.

[@nchoonigan]

Have you thought about building some type of cover or shield for the dry-sump belt to prevent this issue in the future?

[@markpetrosky3128]

I put a speed hut GPS speedometer in my truck and love it !!!

[@SolitudeMG]

Look into getting Speedhut gauges. You can customize your gauge cluster with gauges you like and their speedo has a GPS sensor in it, so you don't need to worry about wiring. Although they still need to be wired in, I think it's much simpler than trying to make a stock speedo work. Plus, Speedhut gauges will also look better. You can also run a GPS digital speedo. You can find plenty of these on Amazon in all kinds of shape (digital readout, HUD, gauge-sized ones, etc.)

[@bigmikepimp2003]

You guys should go half and half with Ben and do an AC inside the shop that way you guys have the doors closed but you guys are comfortable at any weather and insulate the roof also.

[@THEKINGOUWANTIT]

Taylor can you do an up close look at what you did with your steam port I need ideas

[@robsfooty]

Nice fix Taylor. You always find a way lol.

[@Charlie_Wells]

Make some kind of shield for that dry sump belt to protect it possibly in the event it happens again

[@joewilliams3352]

Use and LSA serpentine belt tension pulley. You might have to clearance the thermostat housing like i did on my LSX-427 F1-R procharged camaro.

[@MattLundquistVW]

So for all the guys that are freaking out about a oil pressure cut out switch. You would not wire it to cut out the ignition and kill the motor instantly. You wire it to cut the fuel pump, that way the engine will stumble before it dies giving him time to de-clutch . It will not run long enough to do damage, but give him that warning sh#$ is wrong. Xj jeeps from the factory had them, If locking up the wheels and crashing was true concern they wouldn't have done it. It's a simple normally open contact switch, closes at about 8psi. If you ever started a jeep from the 90's this is why they take like 15 second of cranking before they fire off.

[@CMgraffix]

could you fill hole then drill and tap your own? are you tiring to avoid pulling motor out?, PScheck engine oil for metal fragments? just in case.

[@SkylineBNR34]

You can, that is most likely what a machine shop would do.

[@marcgauthier]

Make sure the belt tensioner is working good

[@steedsgarage]

get an abs hub and sensor off and abs miata and use that sensor to feed speed signal to the ms and output signal to a nb cluster for the speedo

[@ndubgolfer]

I'm guessing you found the flaw in that kit. The longer bolt goes deeper in the block avoiding to much stress on the spot where is originally cracked.

[@ale6242]

Great work dude! you saved it by the looks of things!

[@michaelrosbury2144]

Make an aluminum guard for the pump. And see if you can program a kill setting in your pcm for oil pressure under a selected value

[@leviperry3901]

A kill would not be good for losing oil pressure! if he's drifting close to a wall or in a close tandem, killing the car would probably cause a crash

[@doogiediggler5274]

One thing you might try is building a shield to protect the oil pump pulley, from a broken serpentine belt .

[@111dontworry]

I'd fab up a belt guard for the dry pump

[@mihailpetrovici5044]

My first time seeing the miata without the front bumber

[@dagrumpz8661]

You would think by now you would stop jinxing yourself Taylor but you never do lol.

[@AndrewWolboldt]

The raspberry Pi should be able to plug directly into your OBD port and you could run the same setup, maybe not tune but def data log.

[@gotthumbs2235]

Taylor, so stoked everything is back up and running...after new belts...ready to rip again.....now on to the Sube OR Dodge...

[@blakeworthen9880]

I wanna see more on Ben's raspberry pi dashboard!! And which model pi is Ben using?

[@Matthew20595]

what ecu are you running? surely you could get a fail safe tuned into it that can sense when the pressure drops and automatically turn the motor off

[@SilentKilla92]

Combining custom everything with a dry sump seems risky anyway, will a custom wet sump just not cut it even with an accusump? Looking at dry vs wet for my v8 conversion, this makes me worry considerably vs a well made wet sump.

[@wheeln24-79]

Instead of helicoil look up threadsert. Pretty sure that's what it's called... It's a much better replacement thread solution. It's a solid threat replacement instead of a coil spring thing.

[@wheeln24-79]

@zeroyon223 Yeah that's it. Been awhile since I've had to use one.

[@burninruber60]

You could use an abs front hub and sensor wired into your stock ecu. Then use a edge cts2 dash that plugs right into your obd2 Port

[@donogoobo9992]

Use a GPS sensor to your speedo. I have one on my 1930 roadster. Hooks to any electronic speedo. Mine was less than $50 USD 5 years ago.

[@fabtown1457]

You did a great job my dude!

[@MattGreenland]

Why not get upgraded belts (Gates)?

[@bobglenn1476]

How about a red LED strip 18 inches long run across the dash hooked to your oil pressure system so that when the pressure drops below 20 PSI it light up ?? Quick Car has them in a kit !! A lot of circle track guys use them and trust me when it comes on EVERYBODY knows it !!

[@richardbrown5045]

Motion raceworks makes a drive shaft bracket and sensor that you could use as you're speedo reference when you go digital

[@MrJamestheredneck]

Hey Taylor, do you have a reluctor wheel in your diff like an explorer rear end? if so, couldn't you tie into there for the speedometer?

[@Rday202]

Strange question but Taylor how tall are you?

[@Thepartguy]

Does the dry sump have a bracket at the back too? or just the front two spots?

[@bradthacker9904]

Dry sump still sketches me out, maybe if there was a way to have like an electric motor as a back up or something, just that one belt just scares me plus just switching to a moroso pan has never let me down maybe now you'll atleast wire in a dummy light or put something in your ecu to cut like 50% that way it wont shoot you into a wall and maybe it will still get your attention enough.

[@CMgraffix]

do you need to upgrade to "gilmer belt drive"? toothed belts to not allow for slip?

[@355east3]

My dad welded the hole oil filter mount back on to his cast block tears and years ago and it never gave him any problems

[@rvarsigfusson6163]

I did try to weld a 6,2 alum block..... no it didn't happen.... dirty and all kind of trouble came thru.... did try with an AC and green and gray TiG stick and did try to have balance to both minus and then plus side not the heck I did manage..... How can I weld an alum Chevy block.... give me a hint if you know how.... please

[@richardculbertson8027]

Strange question Taylor but could you add a dry sump belt guard so that if the other belt comes off that it doesn't take the dry sump belt out?

[@curvs4me]

Dam dude! You just absolutely demonstrated the reason to have a 3 quart accumulator even with a dry sump. And the number one reason to run the electric water pump.

[@Nathan-qm6dh]

Ya I would try to fab up some type of shield to protect that from happening again

[@timgraybill3925]

NO Turbo No Problems!!! lol

[@jimkennedy2708]

I'm sure I missed it in the dry sump assembly, but is there support for the rear of the pump? And good idea on the longer bolt, that little factory boss ain't made of much ...

[@MichaelKaufman257]

You could also set up an input on your PDU to flash the lights on it when your oil pressure sends that warning signal- and I’m not sure how safe it would be but you could also have it set up to turn your ignition off when that warning comes up (could be very dangerous mid drift though) best of luck Taylor!

[@tireflipzfilms3301]

well on the bright side broken cars = good content lmao

[@mrsilveri]

Dumb question but would the block have cracked the same way if it was an iron block (just curious)?

[@haatch999]

Iron in that application would have been stronger but yeah basically the belt used the oil pump like an exspensive crow bar and just yanked the metal apart. So unlikely anything besides a brace would help

[@dragata1]

You can buy a analog GPS speedometer or Digital GPS speedometer I know SpeedHut makes them as well others do.

[@Mikey-jm3dc]

I would try to find aluminum tubing to fit over the boss to reinforce if it breaks again

[@shadowreaper5438]

who’s motorcycle is that In the background that’s in every garage video it keeps bugging me

[@jdmsidewayz5336]

Notification gang!!!

[@warummussmeinnameangegeben6502]

Why not fabricate a oem style belt case? Like on most euro or jdm cars with a timing belt - it's completely encased, so that can't happen.

[@LeviHeizer]

No turbo, more problems?

[@GeorgeHampl]

Hope you disconnected all modiles when welding the engine :D

[@randybryant9936]

Good luck brother

[@shanemorris5314]

See if you can get a manual serpentine tensioner less chance of it coming off at limiter

[@timmanley3734]

Put a low oil pressure light on it. Just in case you throw the belt in the middle of fun time and your attention is not on the gauges. Got to the end of the video, Never mind your idea is better.

[@1dickycat]

Why not just rock a gps sender for your Speedo?

[@MrArcticPOWER]

He might want an actual rpm based speedo since it's a drift car and wheel speed is more usefull than car speed.

[@dustinspade2286]

For a dash I'm a dealer for them they have some awesome stuff I us them for the late swap stuff I do

[@steedsgarage]

i think you need an iron block if you're going to keep breaking bungs off lol. sucks you're having so many issues. i'm sure there will be plenty of other comments on a belt guard for the pump. good luck with it man

[@zerohourdrift]

Critters n Cars messes with weight distribution. I want to say it’s 50-100 pounds heavier but I don’t remember off the top of my head

[@steedsgarage]

@@zerohourdrift yeah about 75lb but at least the bungs won't rip off lol. Plus that just gives you a reason to put a big turbo in the back...

[@zerohourdrift]

Critters n Cars rear turbos suck unless it’s for a drag car. Too much piping, they take forever to make useable boost, etc. they’re way worse than front mount turbos

[@TYLERbuilt]

GPS sender to send the correct amount of pulses to a electric speedometer.

[@onhawaii]

you need a longer bolt that almost hits the dead end... Think about it.

[@LMSCa18det]

Try an helicoil next time to reinforce the threads.

[@danielrohr6248]

You need a cast iron Ls block

[@thedestroyer3262]

Why don't you just get one of the ECU master digital dash's?