What 35mm Film Should I Buy?

[@Xenonic2]

Beginners: Please know that there are other color negative (C-41) film stocks that are cheaper than the Kodak Portra line. One stock that competes, and in my opinion surpasses Portra 400, is Kodak Vision3 500T. It’s a Tungsten based film stock that needs to be developed in ECN-2 chemicals but the price is $10 compared to Portra 400’s $13 (cheapest I found). Vision3 is actual motion picture film used in Hollywood to this day and is straight from Eastman Kodak (if bought with FPP). So if you want that “cinematic” look with your film, this is the film you want. CineStill 800T is essentially 500T but without the RemJet layer, allowing you to develop 800T in C-41 chemicals instead of ECN-2. This causes halation to form around light sources in your images on 800T but makes for a low-light film stock that has a nice cinematic look as well. However, the difference is that $10 you’ll pay for Vision3 and $15 for CineStill. Other cheaper alternatives C-41 and B&W stocks are: Fujifilm Superia Xtra 400, Kodak Ultramax 400, Kodak Vision3 200T/250D, Kodak Tri-X, Ilford HP5 Plus and Ilford FP4 Plus 125.

[@ChrisEbbrsen]

As an artist the digital camera is fine but if you do artwork and need tight details film is still the way to go in my opinion.

[@ChrisEbbrsen]

My best advice is 32asa Pluss X. If its been dicontinued I would look at anything close to Pluss X. Try an old can of Vericolor. Ive been out of photography for 30 years so im just getting back into it.dont blame me if they go black im still just an amatuer. Hope this helps.😅

[@ghosttownsentinel5288]

I have never seen those prices in L.A. Those prices you showed are scary that will kill the whole excitement of shooting film and drive people back to using digital cameras.

[@mya.phoenix]

In Europe right now they are pretty much double of that price… 😖

[@bohemianphotographer6843]

Unfortunately they are killing film photography ! It became too expensive to shoot film even if I develop the film my self! Film price and chemicals prices are just crazy ..

[@stayuntilforever]

The one and only Kodak tx400. Develop at home and create prints in the darkroom ❤

[@jannah5513]

love this!! more recommendation and film photography advice videos would be great

[@ethanjones.]

More to come!

[@NunoAlmeidaPhotography]

Definitely some great recommendations, thanks for sharing!

[@AnnalisaJ]

Do you develop or use a Lab? If so any lab recs in the Newport/LA area are welcomed 📷🎞️

[@bobmorr2892]

Film prices are insane, I say it's time to give it up. By the time you buy the film have it developed and maybe scanned it can cost you what? 25 to 35 dollars plus? For about the same amount of money you can buy some Canon digital cameras from the 2000s that look almost as good if not just as good or even better, and you can take a hundred thousand shots for the same price.

[@Claudithejedi8415]

Hi, do you do any black and white shoots and what film would you recommend?🙏

[@ChrisEbbrsen]

Hey! Nice bust shot of your model. I think youve got really good eye!

[@momb4106]

Just found your channel! Love those videos and this vid was super insightful would love a review of bw film stock

[@athmaid]

Even directly from major suppliers a roll of Gold 200 with 36 exposures is 10€ per roll if you buy a pack of three yikes

[@kokooru2146]

what camera did you use to record at 0:20

[@Kevins_Camera]

Heyyyyyyyy I like the vibe. Seem like you're being yourself instead of showing off or putting on a persona. Keep it up man. Great video.

[@ethanjones.]

Hey thanks man really appreciate that

[@bhop.builds]

I think you should've noted that those prices you're quoting in the video are SCALPER PRICES. I still wouldn't call film cheap, but on average, all the stocks you mentioned retail for around half of what you're saying it does... when it's in stock, but that's the catch I guess. If you want it without waiting, you gotta pay.

[@eladbari]

A year passed. Film prices soared when you made this comment. They still do, but the problem back then was availability. You couldn't find any Kodak at any (online) store. I still saw professional film photographers had access to film somehow, which makes me think if they had an inside connection to Kodak which supplied them with that film, and, maybe also at lower prices? So, when you talk about those non-scalper film...where and how do you get them? Because if you talk about buying bulk film, and loading rolls yourself - then that's no option for me....

[@athmaid]

@@eladbari professionals who are dependent on analogue film for their work probably had a dedicated fridge filled to the top exactly for that reason

[@eladbari]

@@athmaid We had covid for 3 years. You think a fridge full of film was for that long? They're using like 140 rolls of film per campaign.

[@timokruis8171]

Great video, for myself I shoot everhthing I can get my hands on with the shortages right now 😅

[@fries4450]

I just ordered some rolls of Delta 3200 and will use it to create the most grainy, filthy images ever cursed with the fate of being captured. Also 12$ for a roll of Gold 200 is shocking.

[@markgoostree6334]

Thank you for not starting with the "THIS is the BEST film blah blahblah".... because just as you said... it depends on the circumstances we find ourselves in. Film is just different and we just have to accept it for what it is.

[@smkunder1]

I am just investigating using film again, but these prices are concerning me a bit. I know film is nostalgic, but is it really worth it at these prices?

[@mrca2004]

If you are starting to use film, most likely you are using a lab for dev and scan. Last time I used a lab, 10 dollars in shipping 2 ways, 15 dev and scan, $25 for developing and that makes a couple dollars for film cost a smaller issue. I develop my own b&w and color. Now it costs me $3 a roll for color $2 for b&w. Learn to develop and scan and you also get more control. Beginners are told to "over expose" films ie cut the iso when metering. I won't say box speed is often a marketing lie, but it is usually high and never low. If you shoot at box speed you will under expose shadows and they will block up, like high lights blow out in digital and they can't be recovered. Increasing exposure 2/3 to a stop should give detail in those shadows but at the other end, now the highlight can be too bright. The adage is expose for shadows develop for highlights. Shadows on a negative don't have to get as black as highlights and are fully developed about half way through the developing time while the highlights keep the chemical reaction going. So if you pour out the developer say 15 or 20% early, the shadows will be properly exposed and developed and the highlights will be pulled back. That is fantastic control not present in digital.

[@andrew_aden]

we want more your videos

[@vwbora83]

What camera/lenses are you using?

[@ethanjones.]

Eos 1 it’s an slr film cam

[@ToThePowerOfFour]

cream