What grease should I use?

[@failingdisciple938]

Thank you from the US for using foul language…it’s refreshing.

[@woodworkerroyer8497]

Go to a nice liberal college, they use it EVERY class!

[@cbradiomizfit7562]

Freedom of speech

[@MyScotty7]

This is the proper English language,all thr rest is fucking shit!

[@JAMESWUERTELE]

Everyone is stunning and Brave now!

[@ddotu22]

The dirty garage guy returns and straight away whips his grease box out

[@buckaroobonsi555]

My family has been using Moly Grease since the early 1980's for serviceable wheel bearings and UV joints. They generally last forever. My Dad and Grandfather used to drive around to the different Army Motor Pools and dig through the trash. They would take a child cheater spatula and spare containers. They would scrape the then hi tech hi-performance Moly Grease the Army used in huge drums that where tossed out becasue they where functionally empty and mechanics did not have time to scrap out 5 gal, 25 gal and 55 gallon drums of grease. Same thing for BreakFree CLP.. Molybdenum was first added to wagon wheel by Americans heading out West from the East. Some how someone figured out that adding this black rock grund up to the animal fat used to lube wagon wheel improved the life cycle of these wheels. These wagons weighted 1300lbs. and 2000lbs. of cargo.

[@jediknight1294]

Paying for CLP is offensive. The US Army had to put a Training notice out saying dont use it as a masturbation lubricant....

[@OddBallPerformance]

One key element of "moly" and why it is added to certain applications is because it is much better at high shock load. Honda makes their own high Moly content grease (Moly 60, now Moly 77) which is stupid expensive that is used on the splines on their shaft drive bikes - per Factory Service Manuals. It works extremely well, having witnessed the difference in wear on the splined ends of two different GL1000 Goldwings, one with the high moly Honda crack, one without. I wasn't a believer until that point.

[@TheSmookk]

Ditto I swear by the shit use it on everything bar wheel bearings and bolts, the anti sling tractor grease is pretty good too for CV joints and the like

[@funcounting]

Nothing beats good old elbow grease tho.

[@stylr882]

What about a 50/50 mix of Evans and no more nails?

[@umangu]

I like how much you swear with Jesus standing right there among your greases!! 😂

[@K42013]

Me, an intellectual : using general lithium purpose everywhere. Sometimes, I used general purpose marine grease for the infamous peugeot rear trail bearing when i rebuilt one...

[@willyck948]

Had a big tub of transmission assembly grease little thicker than vasoline) from a shop, good for holding loose parts in place during assembly that safely disolves into oil.

[@adambatchelder4121]

Exactly, on my offroad motorcycle I re pack the wheel bearings at every tire change with whatever geese is closest because it tends to displace water.

[@ZPositive]

Mama's got a grease box, daddy never sleeps at night!

[@lukethementalgent2676]

Here in Deutschland, we don't just put lard into our frying pans. It goes onto bread and bearings too, good, cheap and (if you are so inclined) enviromentally friendly! Also gives a nice smell of bacon when travelling at higher speeds.

[@empanada401]

No brake pad grease? Shame!

[@yvonjasser]

He uses the copper grease for that

[@rationalmartian]

That's why there is barely half a tin left. He goes through a tin every other month. You know how it needs to be deeply heaped on everything. Especially the backs of brake pads. ;-)

[@jexl1059]

And make sure u buy blinker fluid xD

[@MrGigi-dz9cv]

I don't use grease on the brakes, since it can contaminate shoes or pads.

[@Accuratemarine]

Lithium complex grease has been the norm for greases due to the high price of calcium sulfonate which has superior properties. But since the demand for lithium has skyrocketed due the LiPo batteries, high end greases such as AMSOIl have moved to calcium sulfonate which is now almost as cost effective as lithium. Or so the say....

[@willyck948]

just a thought. There's a common advertising ploy saying "water resistant grease" Did a quick search on washout test and there's not much on the subject. I think I might try to put a few drops of different types of grease on a piece of metal outside in the weather to see what stays better without washing away or drying out.🤔

[@allesklarklaus147]

Willy Cooke just hit it with a pressure washer from a certain distance

[@willyck948]

@@allesklarklaus147 pressure washer might be bias to thicker grease though.

[@huwjones5879]

Good info. Years ago I needed some grease for an Alfa Sud I was working on and the local Motorfactors had a big pot of grey Lithium grease by CarPlan. I still have it with a 1/2 brush in it which goes on all kinds of stuff. For Poly suspension bushes I have some silicone grease.

[@markyoung13]

ACF 50 make grease. The winner...plus it's bright blue.

[@mrbumcraic5046]

The synthetic grease refers to the base oil being fully synthetic Still uses the same thickening soaps (although probably a lithium complex) The only advantage synthetics will give is when used in sealed areas that can’t be relubricated for long time spans or extreme temperature variations

[@jediknight1294]

Theres a few things that need a synthetic because the alternatives eat the rubber rings in the airguns I work on. I have so many different greases for different jobs.

[@mrbumcraic5046]

Jediknight 129 Run of the mill synthetics (PAO’s) are fully compatible with anything that mineral oil is. It’s the real specialty synthetics like used in aviation (PAG’s) that like to eat seals and paints or most things plastic

[@jediknight1294]

@@mrbumcraic5046 youd he amazed what stuff eats in these hateful things.

[@buckaroobonsi555]

At one point Toyota used to use Krytox in their CV joints before the price went stratospheric. One of my Dad's old service manuals actually called out the Toyota part number back in the mid 1980's and called Krytox CV Joint Kit. It was used to replace the grease if the boot was damaged and needed to be replaced. It even showed a photo of it in the manual and it was a rectangular plastic semi-flexible tube. Krazy right no one would use it for that today because of the insane price point. LOL I came across a Bentonite based grease a few months back that cautions you not to use it in wheel bearings. LOL Dupont Hi Vacuum Grease is Silicone based. It used to be rather affordable but it has gotten right expensive in the last few years.

[@bigbluechopper24]

Great video. Would to hear about when which grease should be used. eg 1. What grease should be used for lubricating brake parts like where the pad slides on the caliper? ( I currently use Textar cera-tec anti-squeal grease ) 2. What should be used to lubricate car door/bonnet etc hinges ( I currently use white lithium grease ) 3. What should be used to prevent alloy car wheels from sticking corroding to the hub? ( I currently use Nickel anti-seize )

[@DashCamSerbia]

Also what should be used between steel hub and a steel brake disc, and aluminium hub and a steel disc. Copper grease, aluminium grease,... I have no idea.

[@bigbluechopper24]

@@DashCamSerbia I would recommend Nickel anti-seize grease

[@seanashenden]

loved the old days videos 👍👍

[@forevercomputing]

I did a brake job and the caliper mounting bolts had copper grease on them. I cleaned them up and just put threadlock on them instead. I've never had seized mounting bolts.

[@user-ug9nn]

thanks for summary, ... the copper one is very used for anti seizing on car maintenance, so general purpose for almost everything, silicones for o-rings and seal gaskets, copper for anti-seizing are the common grease for general maintenance

[@thomasphilyaw8593]

Why am I always watching these videos on the edge of my seat like I'm waiting for Santa to show up. It's grease for fuk sake.

[@Mahatma618]

I've found that grease don't mix well with ordinary oil.Don't ask how I know that :P

[@beachboardfan9544]

I just use the white grease found in my underwear, its super slippery and I'm pretty sure it has some cleaning additives in it because it has a slight chlorine-ish smell to it.

[@markskog5941]

Hi Matt. Good vid. Many "branded" greases are just base greases bought in bulk eg. 44gal or 205l drums and decanted into easier packaging either a cartridge, tube or tub. Which makes it more appealing to the end user.

[@spankeyfish]

It also makes them usable for the end user. I don't need enough grease to coat my entire bike in a foot thick layer, nor do I want to have to use a forklift to get it off the shelf.

[@muzzarobbo]

"It is quite interesting to discuss the lubrication mechanism in graphene-based engine oil nano fluids. The above tribological experi-mental results suggest that both friction and wear can be dramatically improved for the optimal concentration of graphene in engine oil. 35 Solar graphene can be easily dispersed without any surfactant in the oil-based lubricants and the oil was stable for one month without much sedimentation. Even though the surface of the steel ball was looking smooth, when we observed its micrometer and nano scale image, the surface was complicated with ridges and valleys. When these two solid surfaces were in contact, microscopically, rubbing of these ridges develops friction between the surfaces. But when we add ultra thin graphene to the base oil, it fills up the micro- and nano gaps of the rubbing surfaces so that it avoids direct contact of the two surfaces and reduces the friction "

[@mcrande]

My splines on my rear wheel when removing to either change bearings or to change tire since it is shaft driven says to use a moly blend from Motocraft that's the only reason I bought some. I'm no where near time to change tires but I bought some that was on sale along with Lucas red and tacky, stuff to change my oil it was essentially free with the savings.

[@timbarry5080]

Thank you for the info!! On a side note some "content providers" are so worried about youtube punishing them for the words they use that they beep their own words or use alternate words like the mother of a five year old. yet you say what you want and your videos are seen.

[@dirtygarageguy]

Well thats their fault for being pussies

[@dirtygarageguy]

To add, they're after the money. I'm not really fussed

[@timbarry5080]

@@dirtygarageguy lol on the pussy thing.. and you are right. Those people are always begging for subscribers and "support" for their programming.

[@twmbarlwmstar]

Thanks for this, I trust you. To be honest I have always loved silicone grease- silicone gets used in lots of things, even food, and over time I just started using it more and more. You can get silicone spray, which I found cheaper than WD40 so ended up using that as a substitute for it often enough. It's also food safe (the stuff I have anyway, best check the label). And I have general purpose grease so I'm tooled up by the sounds of it since working on engines isn't really going to happen.

[@bikersquest]

I read somewhere graphite is good for lubing cables as well but I'm wondering if they even require it and if so what to use, Yamaha's manual mentions it but gives 0 detail on what to use etc and the cables looked lined with something already EDIT the manual mentions "Engine oil or a suitable cable lubricant" interesting.

[@mazman117]

You said the red rubber grease was for rubber parts and was made from silicone right? Doesn’t silicone make rubber parts swell up? I was taught in my automotive class that that’s why you must use the brake fluid that a system is labeled for. Because using DOT 5 (Silicone) in a DOT 3 (Glycol Ether) system would make the rubber parts swell up and stick in their bores.

[@patw52pb1]

You are correct and unfortunately Matt is mistaken. Using the correct brake fluid for the particular application as wetted hydraulic brake/clutch component assembly lube is generally safe if assembled and sealed from the environment quickly, but brake fluid will not protect the exposed rubber surfaces from environmental (UV, ozone) oxidation, and/or petroleum, chemical, salts, water, biological degradation. Using brake fluid as a brake/clutch assembly lubricant also provides no anti-corrosion properties when exposed to the atmosphere due to being hygroscopic/hydrophilic it rapidly absorbs moisture/humidity from the ambient air promoting metal corrosion. Most OEM and brake/clutch hydraulic component manufacturers specifically prohibit using silicone or petroleum based lubricants/fluid/products on wetted hydraulic brake/clutch components due to fluid contamination and rubber component deterioration. Castrol/BP, Lucas/Girling, Millers, OEM "Red Rubber" grease/assembly lube does not contain silicone. Any brand rubber grease meeting the Lucas/Girling TS -2-34-04 spec does not contain any silicone or siloxane component and is compatible with natural and synthetic rubber materials and all current brake fluid. Castrol/BP, Lucas/Girling and Millers "Red Rubber" grease/assembly lube is formulated with a vegetable oil (castor oil) base with synthetic gelling, thickening agents, anti-corrosion and anti-oxidant additives, plus red coloring dye.

[@paulleggett9735]

Hence dot5.1

[@patw52pb1]

+Paul Leggett What about DOT 5.1 besides being a glycol ether/borate ester based fluid?

[@spankeyfish]

@@patw52pb1 According to its MSDS, Granville red rubber grease is also a 'blend of natural oils & inorganic thickener' - www.granvilleoil.com/sds/SDS-0846-v1.pdf No mention of silicone anywhere, though...

[@steveclark..]

Good point Marc Ziegenbein, the workshop manual for my 1980's bike states that brake fluid should be used to help install new seals etc,.....I had forgotten about DOT 3 brake fluid due to owning much newer vehicles shall we say.

[@nixie2462]

How to annoy Matt. Change your username to Molibdenum and patreon him enough to have to say your name multiple times. XD!

[@communist-hippie]

Malebdm mum :)

[@VanLifePays]

Or delboy

[@nixie2462]

Naaa. I said annoy, not fuck his ear.

[@malcolmyoung7866]

Sounds like a plan...how do you spell it again...??

[@chrispbacon3042]

@@malcolmyoung7866 Something greasy about some mum.

[@williamyamm8803]

Very interesting. Thanks a lot Matt. Greeting from France.

[@motorcyclerefurbishment8162]

Woweeeeee....my favourite subject.....I got almost as many.....give or take one or two....

[@firestarter5048]

This is part of a maintenance module at college👌👌

[@mikewynne6549]

So glad I'm not the only one with a grease bin lol

[@gutserker]

I did my valve adjustment. The service manual called for moly sulfide on the cam rollers. I must have buttered my biscuit, because it made it's way to the clutch and now I have to replace the clutch

[@aquactrl1484]

"Why do you need a lathe if you have a drill and a vise?" Del can't keep getting away with it.

[@C.D.J.Burton]

Super lube and a flannel, the only two items in the tool box which both me and my bike share.

[@chrisvinicombe9947]

That looks like Halfords general grease. Works well. I've never noticed any difference between it and Castrol in bearings

[@petejhnlewis]

Great vid Matt.....time for a garage clear out

[@Gothtecdotcom]

Graphite grease is fekkin good, use once, never need to lube again!!!! Used it on mi chain, 9 months later still lubed and good!

[@MattBlackY1986]

The tub with the paint on it comma.

[@frontlinemedia4270]

Red grease. I use that on almost everything

[@Mahatma618]

Hopefully not brakes... 😎

[@frontlinemedia4270]

Mahatma618 I used it on the pins, but any oil based grease on rubber will expand it. I use dielectric grease on brake pins

[@Canuckcrisis]

Purple grease is best. You have to be careful with red grease as it increases HP in everything causing excess heat. To combat it you can add blue grease which cools everything down. Or you can just use purple grease.

[@TehRibster]

This does raise another question though. If all the other greases aren't needed, why do you have them?

[@dirtygarageguy]

I'm saying for your bike you don't need them - like the food safe stuff, unless you lick your bike clean.

[@shakedinbar2162]

Excuse me for that question i'm totally a newbie about motorcycles but why do you need grease for engine building? don't you assemble it with oil assemble lubricant and seal it with a gasket? how engines requires grease since they work on engine oil eventually?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Oil just runs away. On initial start up you want something there until the oil pressure peaks.

[@condowallace]

So Matt is alive!

[@philjames2542]

Thanks for this video buddy, its really blown some myths away for me 👍

[@kickpublishing]

All you need is Del's super super slippy olive oil and water - doesn't even need to be olive oli, baby oil, margarine, lard, pre-cum or even Grease the musical. What's crucial is that its mixed with water over months to form a super super super slippy surface. I have a photo of John Travolta that's been soaking since 1978 and trust me, its now so slippy you cant even pick it up to use it or move it.

[@chrispbacon3042]

Now staring Matt Hudson in Hollywood's latest motorcycle movie Grease!

[@roarkshsha]

In your video about lubricating a chain, you used the SAE 80W-90 with MoS2. In that application does the MoS2 serve any benefit. Also what is the range of weight you would recommend when lubricating a chain. Thanks.

[@bufftankington7349]

Hey Matt, first of all, love the work you do, really informative for a noob like me, so well done ! Second, I was wondering about how important the freezing point of a grease is ? I ask because I live above the arctic circle, and winters are cold, -30 celsius in some months are the norm not the exception. So my bike stays in a cold garage during winter, but I was just curious about how much, if at all, I should worry about the grease freezing ? I'm gonna do the suspension linkage bushings that's why I ask Thanks in advance, peace !

[@dirtygarageguy]

Very good question, smells like a video coming.....

[@bufftankington7349]

@@dirtygarageguy or just answer me now :) just kidding :)

[@stevendavies4045]

I used to cook my chain in grease when I was racing about 20 years ago

[@patw52pb1]

Yep, many old-timers still lube their unsealed chains in a near boiling "secret" cocktail of lubricants.

[@Matt-we7si]

This video is awesome , could you do a revisit on it in a new video talking about grease again if anything new or any better new products out etc...

[@cheetahxs]

i like your comment about all those f***ing stuff

[@timbarry5080]

I sought out a video like yours as I'm trying to figure out which grease to use on the bearing and gear sets in my vintage hand power tools, such as drills and circular saws. Some guys talk about using only Milwaukee brand "grade 00" grease that they call for. Some guys mention bearing temp so you don't use too heavy of a grease that won't flow back onto the parts if it's too thick. I was shocked how hard it was to figure out which fuckin grease to use. Is the multi purpose grease you recommend good for the things I mentioned? Thank you! Happy new pandemic year

[@dirtygarageguy]

Yes. Normal lithium based grease will be fine. The whole point of bearings is that they're replaceable. Things wear, and there's nothing anyone can do about it.

[@stu8200]

Have you ever came across the anti seize agent supplied with SEW motor gearbox units Matt? Not sure on its composition but what a huge difference it makes when removing the unit years later!

[@dirtygarageguy]

No I haven't

[@SergeyMaslatsov]

Which one is better for clothes dryer pulley (it is pretty dusty inside)?

[@TheWebstaff]

Half soap, half oil, now have visions of delboy rolling around in the bath of grease.. Well if its half full of soap you must be able to wash with it..

[@mrbumcraic5046]

Dave Webster ASTM D1264 is the water washout test

[@mattmanyam]

"Say MOLYBDENUM AGAIN!!"

[@mimusixmix6163]

Great video My new mtb has alloy frame but steel seat post and the quick replease was fairly tight. Seat not moving but after riding to my surprise the seat slipped and moving. I have lithium grease but not silicone or carbone paste. I put some lithium grease on clamp so they it can be easily put on the seat tube. Can I use lithium grease on seatpost and seat tube inside. Will it provide friction I am 90 kg. Thanks

[@dirtygarageguy]

Lithium will be fine

[@mupcountry7153]

Thanks bro

[@gramursowanfaborden5820]

so if i heard what you were saying right, i could use mayonnaise?

[@AR-Race]

Hey Matt, I'm just about to put my generator cover back on and starter idle gear back in and the service manual says apply some molybdenum oil Solution (molybdenum paste + oil 1:1) would Molybdenum grease do the same trick? Is it even necessary? You mention it wears off after a few heat cycles and they aren't new parts, just reinstalling.

[@dirtygarageguy]

It is the same thing.

[@mattman3495]

So if I used high temp grease for my headstock bearings I'll be okay?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Yeah

[@Unfunny_Username_389]

12:30 - cool. I always wondered how molybdenum was pronounced. Fuck me - can't believe I spelled that right first time! Don't think I've ever typed it before!

[@karriebhurgari3933]

How many brake jobs do you have on that can of copper grease?

[@bufftankington7349]

I asked this on anoter video of yours, so forgive me if this comes across as nagging but silicone grease can go on the rubberboots for your floating calipers correct ? I think I heard you say that on this video but I didn't quite catch it

[@michaelwalker1119]

As a compressor sevice engineer the number of greases that the manufacturer recommends for its motors is just ridiculous. One grease is called kluba clear.and the cost is just ridiculous per tube. The motor plate tells you which grease the motor takes. There are about 4 types.

[@MT_T991]

Sounds like hpc

[@brentsmith5647]

Brilliant video thank u 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@DougRansom1]

At 21:00 you mention silicone grease can be used as dielectric grease. True. Dielectric grease is a nonsense term since it isn’t being used for any dielectric purposes. You can use any silicon grease (brake, plumbing), or if temperature is not an issue, use any shop grease you have for electric connections. The grease on electrical connectors reduces friction wear a bit and keeps liquids and gasses away to prevent corrosion. The connectors squeeze the grease away at contact points so the connectors conduct even though the grease doesn’t. I think ACF-50 might outperform grease for electrical connectors but I have not tested.

[@jakubsetkowski]

Yes Mat it's almost clear, but what should use on back of my break pads? You know, spread it like butter on a biscuit? Anny advice on that? 😂

[@GF-mf7ml]

I test moly grease in fan bearing and it turn into glue. I've tested 2 different brand. Now I try high temperature lithium grease and see how it works. My car fwd rear wheel bearing failed 2 times by using moly grease (that's what I have) and I send it to mechanic and it fail again they use copper grease. I don't know what I should use, I test high temperature grease this time. I check the moly grease and it written drive shaft grease and I realise they are low speed high load grease. So it burn inside my wheel.

[@phil538]

Geeased me self all up and had a right happy time watching this vid n then I come up with a weird question. On an old shagged out 20 year old asfelt driveway there is patches of mint condition asfelt where cars n bikes have dribbled out stuff. What would that stuff be that has preserved it so well?

[@danielwindstra5116]

And if you own a BMW, you gotta get Staburags NBU 30 or else hitler will personally come to slap you in the face.

[@conkerman01]

Can staburags be actually bought? Or does it need to be anointed by the virgin maidens that produce it.

[@Bowlinginstaller]

So what grease/lubricant do i/we use for mixing metals? For example, sliding a steel shaft through an aluminium pulley? I currently smear copper grease (obvs not shit loads of it) on both the shaft and the bore of the pulley.

[@davidsstfarrelltighe]

Matt what's you're opinion on ceramic grease for breaks its all we use in work (on cars jeeps and vans ) anymore we used to use copper grease and all of us much prefer it just wondering what you think? I personally think its way better than copper shite and dosent seem to run as easily with heat.

[@markyoung13]

I used to use it because it sounded so trick, it was dear too, then I pulled some brakes apart after 12 months and the pins needed doing again, there was no sign of it. You can get it for a couple of quid these days off the counter of any motor factor in the land, says something.

[@davidsstfarrelltighe]

@@markyoung13 I've the propper rubber friendly grease for the slider pins I mean for where the pads touch the caliper carrier and the caliper (metal on metal contact )

[@dirtygarageguy]

Ceramic grease is not what you want. Moly grease is the daddy

[@markyoung13]

The grease you get with cv joints is rubber friendly and won't dry up, I think that's Moly.

[@xdonnix]

Hey mate, could you do a video on the differences between motorcycle oil and car oil. I cant seem to find a straight answer on whether it is fine to use car oil in a bike with a wet clutch providing it doesn't contain energy conserving additives.

[@spankeyfish]

Until cats became common on bikes, bike oils were usually car oils from the 90s with slightly different additive packages. The clue was that they were API SG class whereas cars were up to SL. Part of the reason for this is that SG class has more zinc in it than the later classes as zinc tends to poison catalytic convertors, however, it's also a really good anti-wear additive.

[@derxKai]

Can i use MoS2 Grease from CV Joints to assamble for example a Camshaft? The Ingrediants are basicly the same with assembly Lube.. Cheers

[@motorcyclerefurbishment8162]

Kai Müller ...use assembly lube...I would...it’s recommended....

[@mrbumcraic5046]

Although some assembly lubes have moly, do not use on white metal or alloy plain journal bearings. Moly is very chemically aggressive when subject to heat and pressure and will eat them Just use engine oil

[@piciu256]

I have a push bike, so no heat etc. and poor seals generally, I have 3 types of general grease- synthetic low viscosity for higher speed bearings (wheels etc., happens to be RG2) Synthetic marine grease (anywhere that doesn't spin fast but needs lubrication and corrosion resistance, linkage bearings, bottom bracket, headset etc., AvE recommended Amsoil :P ) and a general purpose Lithium grease for anywhere that I don't care about 😜 And of course silicone grease for seals etc. copper grease which I never use, anti seize (not grease really), ceramic grease for brakes, brake cylinder grease, and probably some others, so yeah, not really 3 kinds, and I need to buy a tube of Molly grease for my cars CV joints 😅 Really, anyone who does any mechanical kind of stuff, at least semi properly, had a grease box 🙃

[@kraftzion]

Just wanted to add that different greases are not always compatible. Like don't add general purpose grease to a boat trailer wheel bearing that already contains marine grease.

[@RandomUserName111112]

Hi Matt, could you do a video on ceramic wheel bearings and whether it makes sense to use them or whether they're too expensive for the benefit they provide. Cheers.

[@cupofjotv8195]

I came here to find out what I should buy to add on my lug nuts, and now I feel like I was given a bunch of names and no explanation. So I'm going to like and sub just cause he went way out of his way to confuse me

[@ibraheem3abassi579]

What he said is but the general purpose one it's cheap and will do the job. If it's an engine internal ext ' cam or cranck, I will add too(cranck bearing), use the moly base

[@jamesdougan8789]

slippery subject this one lol (forgive the bad dad joke).................came across a jis screwdriver the other day that is also a impact driver in one made in japan vessel impacta 980 its called looks just like a normal screwdriver with the added bonus of a impact driver got a stuck screw just hit it with a hammer 12 degrees of turn there is no play unlike a normal impact driver so its good to use as a normal screwdriver ..... would like to know your thoughts.. i think its good quality tool you can find it on ebay or with google search if your interested in having a look if you haven't heard of one before (you probably have) cheers james D

[@mattmanyam]

I bought one of those when I was tooling up a JIS selection for the toolbox, but I haven't been presented with an opportunity to test it out yet... Looks like a good tool, though.

[@jamesdougan8789]

that's what i thought so i grabbed one for $18 au from japan or ten pound or cheaper in uk i was so impressed i had to let you blokes and matt know good to know you think its a good one as well thanks mattmanyam cheers james D

[@dirtygarageguy]

"there is no play unlike a normal impact driver so its good to use as a normal screwdriver ..... would like to know your thoughts.." - There was 2 in the toolbox giveaway. Good piece of kit, but the actual impact capability is so-so. I have about 10 Vessel screwdrivers in the tool box.

[@jamesdougan8789]

good to know they have the workshop stamp of approval ...so to speak... i can see a couple more making their way to my toolbox thanks for the reply matt cheers cheers james D

[@tklupine]

I've been banging on about JIS screwdrivers to all the apprentices for years. The Impacta is a nice screwdriver, but not really a very good impact driver. However, Vessel make some fucking awesome JIS impact bits that work just like the box says. Really good quality and surprisingly cheap for what they are. They sell them in packs of 5 because you are supposed to throw the fuckers out as soon as they start to wear. All of my JIS screwdrivers are either Vessel Megadora 930's or Showa Seiki JIS Honda Pro. Fucking screwdrivers cost me a fortune every year because they are the single most used item in my workshop. the Vessel #2 930's usually last around 12-14 months of daily use in a dealer workshop before i toss them. About 1/2 that time again for #1 because it isn't used as much and the #3 seems to last around 2+ years. The impact bits go in the bin as soon as it shows the slightest wear because they cost fuck all and i don't need the grief of eating screw-heads more than an impact already does.

[@user-nsixfour]

We always add a thin layer of red silicon grease on both sides of gaskets before putting them in

[@dirtygarageguy]

and you shouldn't - well not as a course of practice

[@user-nsixfour]

@@dirtygarageguy really? Why is that? I was hoping you would mention it in the video but you didn't

[@dirtygarageguy]

Because not all gaskets are the same. Just for example and a matter of discussion - the SV1000 clutch gasket has graphite power pressed into the gasket material. Other coatings and materials are used. If the gaskets are supplied dry and the manual doesn't specify using silicone then it shouldn't be used. The who point of a gasket and the choice of materials was adequate enough.

[@user-nsixfour]

Fair enough. We do that so if we realize a few minutes after finishing that we fucked something up we can open whatever we just closed without the gasket tearing apart. Plus we know the grease dissolves when the engine oil goes through it and wont damage the engine

[@riks7256]

sorry for the ignorance but i have a question about aluminium grease..as i know ally on ally produce a lot of friction, so is not a "counter intuitive thing"? many parts in your engine is made of ally... i don't know is just an idea maybe im totally wrong..

[@communist-hippie]

What ive had explained to me. Tale this with a pinch of salt. But that alu-grease is antiseize. And not a anti friction grease. Its meant for parts not to rust/corrode together. Like exhaust bolts where it get crazy hot and ordinary grease just flows away. In alu grease the oil will dissapear to. But leave aluminum keeping it from seizing. But i could be wrong. And ive read as much reasons not to add. As people saying it works, that in the end of the day i dont feel much smarter

[@faisalfaixal2376]

what grease should i use in an angle grinder gears

[@dirtygarageguy]

General purpose

[@faisalfaixal2376]

@@dirtygarageguy thanks alot

[@cwdirtventures2606]

That was helpful thanks🤙🏻

[@stevendavies4045]

I can't remember so but I think in was the oil cast roll

[@Fosgen]

I learn from this video how not to roll into your own gloopy shite. Challenge accepted.

[@ergot1938]

Thanks for your explanation :D It is really helpfull

[@westers1514]

You should have done this sooner - it would have saved me hunting down lithium grease for various pivot points that Yamaha say it should be used on (according to their workshop manual). I could have just used the standard general purpose grease I had in the garage. I did find it odd that for stuff like brake and clutch lever pivot points the manual was saying lithium grease, but 'cos I knew no better I decided to follow the fucking manual (FTFM, after RTFM).

[@TheAnigai]

I've heard that if you put new bearings into an engine after taking off the rubber seal but without washing them out there can be some types of greases inside that would make your clutch slip. Is that true?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Where the fuck did you here that?

[@TheAnigai]

A few years ago from a guy who built trikes using old VW Beetle engines.

[@dirtygarageguy]

His name wasn't Paul was it?

[@TheAnigai]

No it was Pete but he sold a trike to a guy called Paul over in England about 15 years ago that won a heap of shows there for him. Lovely red trike with metalic fleck paint.

[@AGENT-tq1nm]

Which one would be good for double barrel shotgun ....?

[@andreasjonsson8075]

white lithium comes in spray tubes. great for cables and throttle cables

[@matthewkackley3797]

Matt, do you have a coment about waterproof grease? like beyray etc...thank you.

[@dirtygarageguy]

which grease isn't waterproof?

[@matthewkackley3797]

my thoughts exactly!! thank you. thanks for the videos..

[@AndrewDeCenzo]

Here’s a really stupid question: could you theoretically turn the rotor/stator of a motorcycle engine from a generator to a motor?

[@dirtygarageguy]

Yes and no. You would have to have both with the capacity to rotate. Locking one and then the other as you switch from one mode to the other. All the extra stuff you'd require to do this is a shit ton more than just having a stator and a motor.

[@patw52pb1]

Yes, apply sufficient 3-phase AC current directly to the stator windings of a permanent magnet generator/alternator and it will effectively become a synchronous motor.

[@HamzahVerster]

🤣🤣 This guys is hilarious 🤣🤣