What is the BEST APERTURE for photography? PLUS how does it work? Camera settings and more.

[@ricksloane988]

Don’t listen to the comment B made, Paul has taught me how to use all 3 of my canon cameras and my pics get better and better because of Paul. Stuff it B !

[@crossraoads]

Dear Paul - Thanks for inspiring to get me out of "programme mod" and turn to use my camera better!

[@Trooperkiki956]

Love your videos. I’m just getting into photography and have been watching a lot of videos on KZbin to learn more. Your videos are by far the best and easiest to follow and learn from. Thank you for all you do!

[@photogenius]

Awesome, thank you so much.

[@ianross04]

I have to say, I've now watched two of your videos in the last 24hrs and I'm very impressed with the delivery of your message and accompanying explanations. Thank you sir. I've just sub'd

[@photogenius]

Great to have you on board, thanks for supporting and taking the times to share your feedback. 🙂

[@Twobarpsi]

My favorite aperture on the Nifty Fifty is 5.6. It is super sharp at that setting, and gives just enough background blur for portraits.

[@Wrightn221]

Thanks for sharing. I'm still trying to figure my camera out. I'll use that setting this weekend.

[@Twobarpsi]

@@Wrightn221 what camera body do you have?

[@Wrightn221]

@@Twobarpsi Nikon D7500

[@Twobarpsi]

@@Wrightn221 another good tip, is to keep a lot of distance between your subject and your background at 5.6

[@Wrightn221]

@@Twobarpsi Thanks so much!

[@toma60641]

One very important thing about aperture, that was not mentioned in this video, is that each lens has a particular aperture that yields the sharpest images. A beginner could be forgiven for thinking that the sharpness is not affected by aperture, but this is not the case. On my Canon nifty fifty where the most open aperture is f/1.8, for example, the sharpest photos happen at f/2.5. Aperture settings on either side of f/2.5 give images that are slightly less sharp. This is an important consideration re aperture. The general rule, for most lenses, is that the sharpest images can be had at about "one stop" lower than the most open aperture.

[@seaeagles6025]

Hi Paul, it's always nice to watch your videos with easy to understand examples you show. Especially when you said the Aperture is in the lens not the body. This will be of great benefit to new photographers. Even though I'm not new to photography I do appreciate and enjoy watching your Channel. Thanks Paul for your great work And Your nice manner of speaking. 😊

[@photogenius]

Thank you so much for your continued support and kind words.

[@seaeagles6025]

@@photogenius Your very welcome Paul, thank you. 😊

[@Kenny.G63]

Paul is both excellent here and when he's teaching classes face to face in and around Brisbane. If you live here and have thought about attending his classes, I recommend taking one or two.

[@photogenius]

That is very kind, thank you so much for the feedback.

[@DarrenHawkes]

I just started photography and ordered the nifty 50 as my assignment this week is aperture

[@photogenius]

I'm sure you won't regret it, it's a classic lens - best of luck with the assignment.

[@GhostDigital2k]

I'm starting to get the hang of how aperture works. Thank you

[@photogenius]

You are very welcome, keep practising and having fun with your camera. Best wishes.

[@oodle89]

you have one of the best beginner videos I've watched yet! It really helped me understand! Thank you!

[@HassanZemmouri-gv3lf]

Thank you Paul for your wonderful lessons, thank you for your lessons and your clear explanation. I can now say that I have graduated from a novice photographer to an advanced photographer and I am getting more fans for my photos greathins from the Netherlands

[@TheScouser2112]

The best photo teacher ever, thank you for all you're help,and keep up the good work, I will always watch your videos forever, great reference points.

[@harderja]

Thanks for technical saying the f/number is actually smaller for the small openings. On a 50mm the f is a function of focal length so at f/2 it becomes 50/2 or 25. At f/20 it’s 50/20 it’s now 2.5

[@markRead-o4l]

Thanks for your channel. you speak in basic terms so it is easy to learn. unfortunately most photographers talk in a term that is not so easy to understand. well done and please keep up the good work.

[@MileyonDisney]

Great video, as always. You're such an awesome teacher. Aperture, shutter speed, iso - why does nobody ever include, probably the most-important adjustment, amount of light? I still don't see it as an Exposure Triangle, but an Exposure Quadrilateral. Even with natural light, I try to add some flash, when I can, for that extra bit of hot sauce.

[@harderja]

Some KZbinrs say the exposure triangle is too confusing especially for newbies. I also agree I feel that it’s much easier to learn each one separate as aperture and shutter speed do more then exposure.

[@photogenius]

You raise a good point, thanks for your continued support.

[@homeboynguyen7849]

you are the best .Thank you Paul

[@photogenius]

That is very kind, thank you for the support.

[@WCpaintingservices]

Great chanel!!!! Learning alot thank you

[@gabicata19]

Always good advice! Thank you!

[@photogenius]

My pleasure, thanks for watching.

[@joanneallayialis1065]

Thanks so much, love your videos. You make it so much easier to understand Paul.

[@FlyGuyToo]

Hi Paul, great video as always, especially for the beginner. One thing that you may have also wanted to include is that if using Aperture Priority mode on a Nikon (Canon, Fuji etc?) you need to make sure that Auto ISO is turned ON, so the camera will auto adjust depending on the situation. I am NOT a professional photographer and almost always use Aperture Priority mode on my Z6 II, but in this mode it allows you to turn Auto-ISO OFF, so I can manually set the ISO to a Lower value to reduce the graininess/noise that will occur in Dark situations. I shoot in both JPG and RAW and know I can adjust the Noise in Lightroom, but I like to see if I can keep this to a minimum in the original files with night street photography, so I don’t have to mess with it afterwards and can quickly share the JPG images to social media without any processing. I know you (and others) are going to say “Then why don’t you use Manual Mode”, but I still like that the camera will automatically take care of the Shutter Speed and other parameters for me, so it is one less thing I need to control. Thanks for all your great videos!!

[@DaddyyCrab]

Thanks Paul. Great instruction. 👍

[@photogenius]

You are very welcome, thanking you for your support which is very much appreciated.

[@DaddyyCrab]

@@photogenius No prob sir

[@barrygiddey9139]

Thanks Paul, another fantastic video,we appreciate it mate 👍

[@photogenius]

Thank you once again Barry 😀

[@tomlauritzen9522]

Another great video Paul, I look forward to everyone you do.

[@photogenius]

This channel would simply not exist without the support - so thank you so much for your support.

[@bobhinley5410]

Love this guys shirt.

[@magdyroufail2477]

Excellent as usual.

[@photogenius]

Thank you.

[@lynsmith1096]

Good tutorial again Paul

[@photogenius]

Glad you enjoyed it Lyn - thank you.

[@sallieturner8771]

Could you do a video on critiquing your practice photos? When I review those I'm unsure what would have worked better. Your expertise would be appreciated, maybe compare two side-by-side photos. Hope this makes sense.

[@photogenius]

I am certainly going to consider this, thanks for the suggestion.

[@hikingwithjackieboy]

Excellent information, Paul.

[@photogenius]

Many thanks for the views and support.

[@hikingwithjackieboy]

@@photogenius you're welcome

[@edycafe]

Hello Paul ! I love your channel! You always explain things in detail and easy to understand. Thank you so much for sharing. Have a wonderful day. BTW which size is your t-shirt ? Just to get an idea of if I want to purchase one.

[@markdavies217]

are they on Pauls site ?

[@markdavies217]

sorry Pal ive just seen the advert for them

[@photogenius]

I'm wearing a medium tee. Thanks for supporting.

[@jeffreyrhine1956]

Thanks again Paul, another great video. I have learned so much from you.

[@photogenius]

You are very welcome, thanks for the support.

[@StevenKerr-q8z]

Hi Paul! I have a question for you about the camera settings for taking photos in an Art Gallery. When you're not allowed to use a tripod, or any type of 'flash'. Just so you know, I'm using the 18-55mm 'kit-lens', on my Canon EOS 1500D.

[@stuartroach7657]

Informative video as always. Just wondering though, what changes when I’m moving and the subject is not e.g. on a boat and shooting a building on the bank? Thanks Paul

[@kea484]

And you speak slowly enough when explaining that the info has time to "sink in" so to speak. Thanks for that!

[@markgilmour5757]

I've watched a few of your videos and really understand photography and cameras much better, thank you. I have an issue with d5100 always under exposing and having bland colours, I have to always over exposed 1 stop. I think the sensor is peppered with lots of hot pixels (>20?), any advice?

[@TheMegabrandon29]

What was the setting on that waterfall picture 😮

[@tinabarrino3163]

Is there a certain aperture that should be used for portraits only?

[@tonykeltsflorida]

I use FV mode. I can change shutter speed and aperture on the touchscreen of my M6II. I usually go with auto ISO because I know my camera usually gets that right. It took me a while to figure out large telephoto lenses. Using f/4 at 135mm will get a nice blur just like f/1.8 at 50mm. You have to go out and take all kinds of different shots until you start knowing what a picture will look like while you are choosing your lens. I can set up for anything from 17mm to 600mm with my lenses.

[@harderja]

I use PhotoPills and it will show what the DOF is at different focal lengths. You can also goto DOF simulator and it show you how it changes as you change the settings.

[@tonykeltsflorida]

@@harderja That is a good way if you don't have the camera and lens on hand to see what it could be like.

[@413TomaccoRoad]

I say 5.6 or 8. in general.

[@ojooluwadare5712]

👍

[@Liquid_People]

If you are being there, try f8.

[@brianeibisch6025]

The old adage from back in the day was, “F8 and be there”. Sorry just showing my age. Cheers

[@peterc2248]

Aye. A news photographer friend of mine always said 'F8 and wait’

[@photogenius]

😄

[@cian7713]

instructions unclear, i am now deathly ill because of moon rocks

[@orthodoxtewahedomedia9414]

Hi Paul please give me camera please🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

[@BobN54]

The You Tube algorithm led me to another one of your videos. Unfortunately, like the rest of them it gets the basics wrong. Even a 'genius' needs to learn the basic facts before presuming to teach others. Exposure does not mean 'how light or dark an image will be' (1.29). It means how much light there is projected onto the sensor (strictly per unit area). That's only indirectly connected to how light or dark the image is. The problem is teaching the basics wrong is that they form the foundations of learning, and when the basics are wrong people cannot get past a superficial understanding. Particularly with exposure they can't start to understand higher levels of exposure management because they can't even conceptualise it. So, in the interests of photography, please do try to get the basics right.