What is the Best Oil for the F-150 PowerBoost? AMSOIL vs. Pennzoil Analysis

What is the best oil for the Ford F-150 PowerBoost engine? I compared the top two oils from the recent Project Farm oil contest, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum vs. Amsoil Signature. Which one came out as the top oil for the F-150 engine?
Reference Videos:
Project Farm Final AMSOIL vs. Pennzoil:
• Amsoil or Pennzoil, wh...
#f150 #ford #powerboost #amsoil #pennzoil #projectfarm
0:00 Welcome and Intro
1:57 AMSOIL vs. Pennzoil Background
3:23 Wear Metals Results
5:41 Contaminants Results
6:41 Additives Results
9:08 Conclusions
11:14 Final Thoughts & Outro

[@user-us9jo6xu7z]

Yes Amsoil is best but Pennzoil Ultra platinum and Valvoline Advanced are the best bang for the buck.

[@question_it_701]

Amsoil is best? Over everything?

[@srf6161]

Love the Amsoil 🎉🎉🎉

[@johnserrano9689]

No you don't stop it liar

[@AB-coyote]

It’s been about 7 years but I did two 5,000 mile intervals with Amsoil Signature Series and regular Pennzoil Platinum. Both 5w30. 2 intervals with each oil sampling the 2nd batch of each in my 2013 Nissan Titan. The Pennzoil in my case came back with lower wear than the Amsoil. Like you said the Amsoil would be the better choice for extended intervals. There is not a bad oil these days. Reasonable maintenance intervals are more important than brand. Great video.

[@ronb493]

I couldn't agree more. I've used Supertech and now Kirkland for years. With no issues. Gas mileage the same as new with over 100k. Dp what makes you happy.

[@blakebarro1428]

Thank you SIR🙏 for the information. I’m using Amsoil for 30 years no problem with my engines .

[@benchmark3332]

That's a lot of money over the years for such expensive oil. You must be rich.

[@blakebarro1428]

I’m not rich I just treat my vehicles engine like human body I give them good food I believe in eating healthy. I’m a technician started 1976.

[@DonziGT230]

I've never used Amsoil and have over 30 years with no problems with my engines or my customer's engines, except for one customer who was having me use Amsoil and had a failure. I fairness, he was running the Amsoil too long because he believed their 25k mile interval claim.

[@skipgumphrey9579]

Been running Amsoil in all my vehicles since the early 90s with zero problems. Multiple vehicles over 100K and one over 385,000. Currently my daily has just over 101,000 miles and my truck is coming up on 300,000 miles. I use the Signature Series and swap the oil every 10K. I used to use Castrol and Mobile 1. I’ll keep using the Amsoil forever, they’ve MORE than convinced me of the quality.

[@benchmark3332]

Ams oil loves you@@skipgumphrey9579

[@AllenStuck]

Amsoil is the best hands down!

[@paullupano4186]

Love the objectivity and explaining your thought process through each video.

[@adambaumeister2376]

I’m strict amsoil in everything I own worth every penny

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Thanks Adam. Be helpful for us to know why, & share your perspective. cheers

[@adambaumeister2376]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 well I ran snowmobiles my whole life and with manufacturer oil the variable exhaust valves (power valve) would be filthy after 500 miles or so switched to amsoil and spotless after 500 also got 11k miles on a snowmobile engine with no rebuilds also ran in all of my street bikes all my sports cars and trucks and have never had a single engine issue in the 18 years I’ve been driving and been running amsoil in sleds etc since about 2000

[@adambaumeister2376]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 and for non anecdotal evidence it wins pretty much every shootout with oil comparisons etc

[@LA_Commander]

How exactly do you quantify that?

[@derfskittlers6125]

Why does he need to back up his statement for using only Amsoil? Lots of people get used to one brand and stick with it. ​@@LA_Commander

[@arxigos365]

Thanks for the video. I’m an Amsoil guy and I get better results in oil analysis with Amsoil XL or even OE than signature series, next I’m gonna try Pennzoil ultra platinum for first time if I get good results I don’t have any problem switching to Pennzoil.

[@stephan707]

Thanks for the analytic approach in the video and the interpretation of the results. My Mercedes Diesel has now reached 300k miles and is still running well. My idea has been to change once in a while the oil brand as each has its specific strengths. So I changed between Pennzoil, Mobil 1 and Castrol during the last 15 years. Now as i am driving less I stay with cheaper Pennzoil Ultra 0W40. Most important is the regular oil change including a quality oil filter.

[@mikecon7634]

Project Farm released another oil test today. This was interesting. Tks

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

I saw it. Interesting as always.

[@BigSouthOutdoorsTV]

Hey! I'm new to your channel. Great video btw. I have a '14 F150 with the 5.0 coyote. I went through extensive reading, research, videos and even went so far as to talk to an Amsoil dealer that took my on a virtual tour and explained in DEPTH how it was different/better than other leading brands. Bottom line, he said, if you're using your truck as most use a car, to go to work, park for 8 hours and drive home, Amsoil is overkill. If you're going to be towing ie pulling a camper, a boat, and the rest if the time it's going to be a "daily driver", you don't need Amsoil, unless you want that extra piece of mind. When I told him I pull lawn equipment on a 22ft. open deck trailer that weighs around 5,500lbs every day, he said "the YOU NEED AMSOIL".

[@kimmillard9445]

Guessing the Calcium may have been deliberately kept down by both manufacturers over concerns over Low-Speed Pre-Ignition and to achieve the API SP designation as well as Dexos1 Gen 3 Designation.

[@firstjohn3123]

Yeh, I heard high Calcium on direct ignition engines can contribute to pre-ignition...So, maybe the Pennzoil is better on direct injected engines? ¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯ Half the price of Amsoil anyway.

[@hersheyroseman4508]

Great video, I think this video is a great example of that with the top of the line oils at 5,000 miles wear metals are super close. The number will start to change closer to 10,000 miles or longer than 6months or 350 engine hours. Around 15,000 miles is where you really start to see number differences. Just as you stated in the video. I know for my engine fuel dilution isn't a problem until 20,000 miles

[@MrFakherabbas]

Very precise and most importantly very conclusive analysis.

[@John-yf4ie]

Great information!!! My last 3 Jeeps since 2016 all oil services were doneusing Amsoil Signature Series 0w20. My cost every 5,000 miles was $101.78 from a local store. Last month I went to the store and they were out of Amsoil. I went to Walmart and found Pennsoil Ultra Platinum and my total was $76.42 plus tax. After 1,200 miles I have't seen or felt any difference on my 2021 Jeep Gladaitor Rubicon. My MPG is still 16.4-16.8. I have 32,000 miles on it so I'm sticking with Pennsoil. Yanni

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Sometimes I think there is a placebo effect when you change to a different brand of oil, like "it runs quieter!" Mostly this is in our heads. Yes, the Pennzoil is much easier to get. I can't get Ultra Plat in the stores near me so I order it online from walmart.com with no shipping cost. I've tried to order via Amazon but I've had two bogus orders that I had to return. (either sent me the wrong viscosity or the regular platinum) Thanks for posting your observations! cheers

[@TonicofSonic]

Amazon sells a 3pk of this oil for around 75$ delivered. Shipped from and sold by Amazon. I like getting this delivered because I am lazy. 😅

[@benchmark3332]

Replacing the oil every 5k will keep your engine happy with any synthetic oil. $12 for a quart of oil is ridiculous.

[@Nellis202]

@@benchmark3332 EXACTLY ! Been using SuperTech full synthetic and faithfully changing every 5,000 miles or so. All is good. 😊

[@harryduncan6699]

I’ve used Amsoil on every internal combustion I’ve owned. In my last vehicle a Honda Civic, I changed it every 25,000 and used Wix oil filters. I sold the car at 185,000 miles. At that time it was burning a half quart of oil every 15,000 miles. I also changed the transmission oil every time I changed the motor oil. Probably 50,000 miles on the car was pulling a small boat. I have a Subaru Outback now, with 134,000 but burns a little more than a half a quart every 15,000. Again with Wix filters. So if you look at cost for changing Pennzoil every 5,000 vs. Amsoil every 25,000 miles, I’m saving a ton. I also order it directly from Amsoil with their membership discount. I use it in two boats, two lawnmowers, snowblower, and three vehicles. What should be done is test Amsoil at 10,000 and Pennzoil at 5000, and then compare them at 25,000 vs. 5,000. You might be surprised, with the amount of money you’re wasting.

[@153eddy]

Great video. Ive always been a HUGE fan of Amsoil. I run it in my ATV and my weekend car that gets driven hard. My daily's....I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and like you, 8k km (5k miles). I have in the past used Amsoil Signature in a Lincoln Continental V8 that I daily'ed mostly highway and would go 30k km (19k miles). Theyre both amazing oils in my opinion but Pennzoil offers the best value especially if you aint doing the extended OC intervals.

[@trekfortruth2841]

Very well done analysis!

[@marlon94124]

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic motor oil has always been my favorite because the product is made from natural gas.

[@moon-light1354]

Graet analysis of these oil's, I personally use Amsoil ss 5-30 and a friend of mine uses Pennzoil UP. Both are superb lubricants. Project Farm has done great nonobjective testing on oils,.

[@93gtze]

Great video ,as was the Project Farmer, I started using the Penzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 , on.2 of my Vehicles, for the last 3 years, and I also do my oil changes around 3 K miles. 👍

[@wesmullennix3495]

I was waiting for a video like this I use this in my truck I have the same motor as you as well thankyou

[@davidc8122]

Another good video. I've been a user of Pennz Ultra for some time now and have been very happy with the results. Like you, I'm sticking with the 5K change routine (also, do tire rotation at the same time). If your looking for another topic along the same lines you could do a video on oil filters (I currently use Purolator One which have an efficiency rate of 99% at 20 microns). Of course, the oil filter topic is just as opinionated as the oil topic. Thanks, again, for making your videos!

[@wangwang2003]

Be careful though, smaller micro does not mean it is better, I watched a video showing 20 micro filter restrict flow by a lot, use 30 micro filter you will get way more flow, imagine what 10 micro or 5 micro filter will do? there will be no flow! it makes sense to me, so I switched from 20 micro to 30 micro filter for that reason.

[@aed990]

I agree with you 100%, very well said on the last part of your video…

[@tssci6774]

BSL uses an outdated, indirect fuel dilution method. Those with GDI engines should use a lab that offers Gas Chromatography, which is a direct, and accurate ASTM method for fuel dilution. Particle Count and TBN, Oxidation, Soot tests should be done with GDI engines. Abrasive soot and fuel dilution is a major problem for GDI engines, as it causes stuck rings, oil consumption and timing chain wear. I significantly reduced my fuel dilution by running Top Tier Premium 93 octane fuel. It reduces engine knock by 90% and more complete combustion, less fuel blowby. I went with a Amsoil SS 0W-40 oil. I run 10k miles, wear is 75% less, viscosity drops but tapers off and levels off right in the middle of the SAE 30 weight range, where it should be. I change the Purolator Boss filter at 5k. At 100k miles, the engine has no varnish, sludge in the camshaft cover, pistons have very little carbon due to premium fuel, and high quality oil. My wear rate of Iron is 1 - 2ppm/1k miles. Running 87 octane and OEM 5W-30, my wear rate was 4-5ppm/1k miles, fuel dilution was over 5%. The lab I recommend is Testoil.com.

[@jeffkirkwood2464]

What car do you own ?

[@user-zo2ho8tq5x]

You would do well with either of these. Just remember… a quart of oil IS the cheapest mechanic you will ever pay! Do not skimp on it. I’ve been using Amsoil Signature Series for over twenty years and over half a million miles, changing it at 15,000 mile intervals with no internal engine problems or sludge accumulation.

[@StrapDLBStyle]

Great video, just being honest. In today's click to buy workd Amsoil comes delivered super fast. The oil filters are superior (get the 25k ones) and I probably run 10-15k a year not as many miles like I used to but I do see very cold (snow conditions in the winter ) and 115 deg hot in the summers. So I run amsoil signature series for my f150 Ecoboost and I change the oil right before winter and right before summer so I always go into the extreme months with fresh oil. I change the filters also each time but I run the higher capacity 25k oil filters. All I am really trying to do is protect my turbos. So they last longer. Unless you are towing or harsh driving changing your oil while running signature series prior to at least 8k is just a waste of money. All the testing I have seen others post online the oil is still above acceptable levels at 20k+ I might start increasing to 3 times a year when my engine reaches 150k miles I am at 92k now. The 3 oils I would recommend is amsoil signature, Pennzoil ultra & the top of the line redline. However I wouldn't run the Pennzoil anything longer than 5-8k miles for the same conclusions you show on this video. It just doesn't have enough additive package (tbn) for it. That's why it's half the cost. If you don't want to run extended miles 8 would Pennzoil it all day. I just like amsoil I cam buy oil for all my vehicles, boats and motorcycles all on one website page have all my info logged and super easy to re order. You also need to consider amsoil buys it's base synthetics from major oil manufacturers amsoil is just a blender not a synthetic oil manufacturer. Pennzoil is also owned by Shell oil who manufacturers 100% synthetic base oil so since they are the manufacturer they can blend and sell via Pennzoil way cheaper than other oil brands. Remember amsoil is a blender meaning they buy the base oil via rail car and they buy additives and they blend there own formula into its products. The bass synthetic they must buy from a major oil company like Shell / P66 / Chevron etc. if you don't want to extend your oil changes or test your oil just run Pennzoil or use one of the mid teir amsoil. They gave 4 or 5 tiers. Dominator (race) the highest , signature series, XL, X .. something like that you guys can check. No need to run signature series of you are just dumping the oil every 5k it's just my opinions.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Agree with just about everything you've said. Cheers

[@CWB1863]

For me, i really like PUP and Valvoline HM Max life in my 2014 3.5L EB with 5K intervals. However, lately i now change the oil at 3,500. Tend to go with Valvoline Advanced or the reg. Penn Plat. Clean oil is always a good choice...especially with the Ecoboost engines.

[@harryduncan6699]

I’ve used Amsoil on every internal combustion I’ve owned. In my last vehicle a Honda Civic, I changed it every 25,000 and used Wix oil filters. I sold the car at 185,000 miles. At that time it was burning a half quart of oil every 15,000 miles. I also changed the transmission oil every time I changed the motor oil. Probably 50,000 miles on the car was pulling a small boat. I have a Subaru Outback now, with 134,000 but burns a little more than a half a quart every 15,000. Again with Wix filters. So if you look at cost for changing Pennzoil every 5,000 vs. Amsoil every 25,000 miles, I’m saving a ton. I also order it directly from Amsoil with their membership discount. I use it in two boats, two lawnmowers, snowblower, and three vehicles. What should be done is test Amsoil at 10,000 and Pennzoil at 5000, and then compare them at 25,000 vs. 5,000. You might be surprised, with the amount of money you’re wasting.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Damn, 25k changes. Wow. Be interesting to see how good the oil was (via analysis) after that length of interval.

[@harryduncan6699]

Amsoil and Wix oil filters. Just drove to Chicago and got 36 mph in the Outback. Ran junk oil it came with the first 500 miles then went to Amsoil. Changing Amsoil at 5000 would just be throwing away good oil. I change the filter at 15,000 which is easy being it’s on top of the engine. That’s the recommendation from Amsoil.

[@ronc127]

There is also all that dirty oil changing every 5K vs 25K, is it being recycled responsibly. I want the best oil for my Ford Power Boost, and I do care about the environment. I don't drive 25K a year more like 15K, So I will only have to do 1 oil change every year with Amsoil vs 2 or 3 with any other oil.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

@@ronc127 used oil is pretty efficiently recycled, from what I can tell. It's not like the old days when we'd dig a pit in the back yard and dump it. Man I shudder when I think of what was once considered "normal"

[@harryduncan6699]

@@ronc127 I’d suggest WixXP oil filters or Amsoil filters. I use WixXP even in my lawn equipment. WixXP come in much wider variety.

[@ulisg6040]

Finally a new video! We're already tired of waiting. Thank you!

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

lol what else would you like to see tackled here?

[@ulisg6040]

How about earlier replacement transmission oil, transfer case oil and differentials oil? Maybe it’s a good idea to do it just after brake in period? Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

@@ulisg6040 Thanks for the suggestions...transmission fluid R/R might be kind of tough without a lift, but transfer case and pumpkin jobs should be no problem. cheers

[@flexjay87]

Okay, something i found out about Pennzoil vs the average synthetic, ( i am not sure about Amsoil base stock formula, in regards to what group oil it is ) may shed some interesting light on the oil comparison debate. Reportedly, if true, Pennzoil Platinum, since it is made from natural gas, does NOT need and or require the same additive package as many oils, precisely because , it is made from Natural gas and Not crude oil, so it ( Pennzoil ) is much cleaner/ purer, than the usual base stock oil. Now, not all Synthetics are equal for sure, in regards to Base stock refining, but, i thought it was a good point, and we all need to do our homework, in a much more complete way, than to just look at numbers after the fact. Also in my mind, i believe a sample of new oil for each brand should be tested prior to use, and it against itself and the other brand ( so 4 tests ) to have another bit of information, for comparison, well, if we wanna be really thorough . Question is, is it necessary, well who knows ?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

I agree with you in principle on testing before and after, but are you gonna fork over an additional $70 for the testing? I figure a $35 test on used oil every 10k or so will tell me if anything's degrading in the engine. cheers

[@flexjay87]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 , i know right. where do the possible options end ! Lol

[@bbartlow0307]

Excellent conclusions. I've been an Amsoil Industrial dealer since ~1990 but have converted to Ultra Pennzoil in passenger cars due to cost and similar UOA results over time. For those who can go 10k between changes, Amsoil can make more sense, especially with additional "bypass filtration" which I found essential for those who want 300k from their regular IC engines or 750,000 - 1,000,000 miles on their big rigs. But before moving to a 10k - 15k interval permanently (1-year is max) have Blackstone run the additional TBN (total base number) test to make sure the Amsoil detergent package is working in your situation.

[@lucpaquin6025]

They are both excellent oil.

[@carlmcdonald5864]

I have a 2010 CTS-V wagon manual with 726,000 km Only use pennzoil ultra Platinum still runs strong

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Wow...nice.

[@vincentgarcia468]

One thing that wasn’t mentioned is that Amsoil Signature Series oil also helps protect the turbos in the Eco Boost engines, I’m not sure if Pennzoil does because I haven’t looked into it but dealing with Amsoil I know that oil does

[@raynabozny2338]

I use Amsoil 0w30 Signature Grade Oil in my 2018 Ford Explorer 3.5 L Non Turbo w K&N Oil Filter Change oil and Rotate Tires every 5000 miles now with 75,000 miles runs like new.I will stretch out to 7500 interval with the next oil change.I live in Michigan but the vehicle is garage kept.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Thanks Ray!

[@mustang2433]

I love Amsoil and will always use Amsoil but I do like seeing if I need a good oil in a pinch the get the pennzoil ultra platinum

[@user-ei7kj8ib3q]

Both Pennzoil & Amsoil make good products; I would be happy to run either in my car. Those running turbos or superchargers may want to consider an air-oil-separator or catch can system to augment the PCV system and keep oil out of the intake tracts. More over, taking time to learn about and service your engine oil is a lot more than some drivers can say... coming from a former tech with over 100 sludge motors on the books. Had one come in with over 70k miles on the factory oil before it tossed a rod. Change it regularly and use whichever brand you're most comfortable with.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Agree 100% thanks

[@dogdooley4495]

I've been using Amsoil in my 5.3 Chevy trying to prevent any lifter problems from the AFM. Currently change every May and November. Thinking about running PUP every 4K to 5K miles to save on cost. Both are excellent oils and cleaner oil is better oil, especially with the direct injection engines. I'm less worried about oil breaking down and more concerned about fuel dilution and oxidation. Like you, I'd like to get 300K.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Yes. 100%

[@terrypayne519]

Good job

[@ronb493]

Wow. Grat video. Here's my two cents. People use what has worked for them in the past. Having said that....Amsoil is the best. I would use It if i were towing. Other than that there is no benefit if you performing regular oil changes.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Thanks Ron!

[@gbornhardtful]

Good info. I am picking up a new f150 3.5l in a few days . At what point should I switch to full synthetic oil? I usually do my first oil change at 1000 miles next at 3000 miles then keep my oil changes under 5000 miles after that. Usually have the dealer do the first oil change because it's free . I was considering the full synthetic at around 3000 miles will it be ok? Thanks keep up the good work .

[@71_button]

Don’t overlook changing differential & ATF too as they breakin much like the engine.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

I think the old myth was that you don't want to use synth oil for breakin because it's "too slippery" and won't allow the engine to properly break in. I believe that myth has been disproved. I went 1000 miles on my first crankcase and have changed it at 4k - 5k every time since. Don't overthink it, you're on the right path.

[@michalp2362]

I went with 1.5 k, 5k and 10k initial oil changes on my F150. Went with full synthetic right away. At 12 k now and at 5k OCI starting at 10k. Easy to remember 10, 15, 20 and so on

[@jasonbrushett2005]

I go 8000kms/5000 miles.Been using Mobil 1 5 30 full synthetic and Ford filter.I've been interested in the 2 oils you tested.I hear Mobil 1 is at the lower end of the better oils ,but I have always had good result with it.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Same here, 30 years of great results with Mobil 1.

[@darrylsjodin7184]

Great video! Which oil did you decide to use? One factor you left out is the viscosity. Both oils thinned a bit, but Amsoil was still in grade, but Pennzoil dropped down to the next thinner grade, with fewer miles. I have gone 10 to 12,000 miles with Amsoil for 27 years with zero problems, one minivan with 287,000 miles, ran excellent with one quart every 5,000 miles and no smoke at all!

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

current crankcase is amsoil but I'm not married to it. I don't think the dilution has anything to do with the oil per se, but probably more to do with actual types of miles driven, etc. I mean, one oil's not going to fend off dilution any better than the next, given a specific viscosity. Glad to hear of your experience with the Amsoil. cheers...

[@darrylsjodin7184]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Yes agreed. The fuel dilution could be caused by an engine management or some other problem as well. It’s getting into the crankcase somehow.

[@marshallguerra1353]

Good information. In my opinion I think no matter which oil you choose you would get good protection for your motor. One other factor would be the oil filter. Using a cheap oil filter with good oil are you really getting good protection. So I think the type of oil filter would play in this testing. At the end of the day. Buying the best oil and filter even if it cost a few dollars more is still cheaper than replacing or repairing a whole engine. “. Cheap insurance “.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

agreed!

[@stingrayl82]

I know the comment from Blackstone said don't worry about it but did the viscosity shear out of range for both oils on relatively low intervals due to the short trip/fuel dilution issue brought up? If so I think that supports a 4k-5k interval. The oil might have enough additives to go longer but the other oil properties aren't there for it.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

The fuel dilution is the big thing for me which supports a smaller drain interval, otherwise a 5k drain would be a waste of money with these oils. cheers..

[@joesilverbliss1721]

You got it right. If you change your oil sooner. no need to pay extra. Put the extra money towards a good oil filter.

[@chestrockwell8328]

Any decent oil meeting the current certification will allow most any engine to go for 300k without an a failure due the oil itself. 5000 mile oil changes, decent filter, and keeping a decent air filter is part of the protocol. I've done multiple Used oil analysis using Supertech high mileage on two different vehicles, combination driving, typically 4500-5500 miles, though once i waited to 10k miles, every time the oil reports came back satisfactory. In my driving career I'd guess I'm well over 3 million miles combined, never had one engine failure for any reason, oil or otherwise.

[@chrissimmons9969]

For one thing Amsoil is marketed as an extended life oil whereas Pennzoil is not so it would make sense that Amsoil may have slightly more antiwear additives.

[@JavonR123]

I saw another video on this comparison. The gentleman mentioned that pennzoil ultra platinum is a superior base oil due to the natural gas to liquid formulation. That means it needs less additives to achieve anti wear. I think the oils are virtually equal based on anti wear results. Amsoil needs a bit more additives to get there at 2x the cost.

[@1BlinkwithAngels82]

Amsoil also maintained it's viscosity notably better than PUP so it's not just a case of using more additives, they use some of the best base oils as well. Wish we could see the oxidation values from speediagnostix to get a better idea of how it's holding up at this OCI. Think the takeaway here is that PUP is a great value alternative to Amsoil, but I wouldn't call it better based solely on this.

[@johnnydee6659]

My lab results on my 2018 F150 2.7 ecoboost with over 50,000 mies has lower metal counts (aluminum 4. Chromium 0. Iron 7. Cooper 3) with 5000 miles on the oil. In Texas heat. Running Valvoline Premium Full Sys, under $30 at Walmart for 5 quarts. Results from Blackstone.

[@LoveLikeaHurricane]

I'm not sure if it was considered, but the detergent /cleanliness data isn't tested. Wear/reliability is correlated with engine cleanliness. For any engines I have seen opened up with Amsoil SS, it has been sparking silver. For Pennzoil, I sometimes do come across slight varnish ....although uncertain if the life of the engine was exclusively on Pennzoil ultra.

[@michaelsheets6851]

On the Ecoboost engines, especially the first gen, Ford released a bulletin for the correct oil. It needs to be the oil spec that the Pezoil Ultra Platinum is. This is to reduce the carbon build-up on the intake valves from the oil vapors entering from the pvc. Ford Tech Makuloco has a video also showing the bulletin from Ford. I think Castrol also makes oil now with that spec. This is the whole reason i change my own oil. You never know what they put in.

[@Duchydog]

Agree! The more Calcium in the oil the better chance of LSPI on Direct Injected Engines. The two oils are both excellent products although the Pennzoil is a much better value.

[@daveroski]

@@Duchydogyou mean less calcium

[@nana-bt5db]

I use the Walmart brand and I have over 300,000 mi on my 2009 Grand Cherokee

[@matthewray5374]

I work at a Ford dealership and seen all kind of stuff come into the shop. I tell people on ecoboost motors change the one every 3k to 4k miles and natural aspirated motors 5k to 6k miles. Me personally I use Valovine in all my vehicles. Valovine additive package is one of the best. I also use BG MOA additive.

[@JohnDiMartino]

Good video, if you take a lot of short trips that’ll be the biggest thorn in your quest for 300k. There’s a big difference between doing 300k in 5-6 years and do8ng it in 15-20 years. IMO any gas truck can do 300k in 3-4 years… time is as much a factor as miles sometimes more depending on environmental factors such as road salt , dirt roads , living near the ocean ( salt in the air) …etc

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

agree with your comments. Fortunately I don't have to worry about road salt here in SC. cheers

[@darrylsjodin7184]

A way to get an indication of a motor oils base oil content is to look up the oil brand msds. Recently I looked up Rotella’s T6 synthetic oil and it said “hydro treated heavy parafinic, petroleum distillates”, which means group 3 synthetic oil from petroleum. Red Line oil msds says Esters and other chemical names, not petroleum.

[@tylerphelps4868]

Boron also has antiwear properties depending on how it’s used. In fact it works better than molybdenum. That’s why as ZDDP levels are decreasing, most brands are increasing their levels of boron.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Thanks Tyler!

[@machine7767]

Lower calcium levels are better for direct injection engines, that is one of the requirements for meeting API SP. High levels of calcium in oil can lead to low speed pre-detonation. Really need a virgin oil sample showing molybdenum levels. Possible since penzoil was run first, the engine used up "absorbed" the molybdenum.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Nice. You should be doing these reviews, not me. 🙂

[@paintballhallic]

What oil filter are you using. I use either Purolator boss or fram endurance.

[@LoveLikeaHurricane]

avoid purolator if you care.....they randomly still have torn media despite having great build "on paper". Use OEM, Mobil 1, Amsoil, or like you said Fram Endurance.

[@paintballhallic]

Where did you find this information or video explaining this ?

[@LoveLikeaHurricane]

@@paintballhallic it’s on bobistheoilguy forums

[@haac4825]

Like Amsoil and Penzoil since Project Farm results long time ago. I watch a lot of Eben in amsoil channel. But for me is cheaper and easier to get Penzoil at Walmart or Autozone. Sometimes just seeing the oil in the shelf is more better for me than ordering and waiting for it to come. But if I made a choice of better oil, we'll I will stick to Amsoil #1.

[@duanemcquillin9343]

Used them both extensively in multiple vehicles! Amsoil is Good….but consider this; Amsoil is twice as much money. In fact you can do two oil changes with PUP vs Amsoil for the same price. Some say that Amsoil is extended change oil….but here’s the BIG difference: if you change the PUP at 5K you’ll see between 5PPM-10PPM Iron every time. Run the Amsoil 10K and you’ll see 15PPM -30PPM or higher every time. It’s up to you, have clean consistent oil or run the Amsoil with more wear? It’s funny how some Amsoil reps actually post videos saying how great the oil is after 20K + miles and the iron is through the roof. That only proves how dumb you are wearing your engine out. Never run past 10K miles, even with Amsoil. I personally run PUP in everything except my Toyota Sequioa. It’s such a pain to change the oil, I use Amsoil and run it a tad longer. BOTH are great oils. TBN and what’s left in the additive package matters not. It’s the wear metals and flash point that matters. And in that category PUP will win everytime.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Agreed. Can't run drain intervals past 5k due to dilution, so no benefit to me to use an oil which is meant for extended intervals. cheers

[@williamardenjr116]

Amsoil is always the best! Pennzoil a close second. Project far did this years back

[@user-mb4kj9rj7u]

I came to the same exact conclusion due to fuel dilution from my direct injection engine.

[@dcm1f3]

My guess for the Pennzoil having less antiwear additives is because the base oil is more pure than other synthetic oils. I will continue to keep using Platinum and Ultra Platinum in all my vehicles. Keeps my oil changes cheaper while still having similar results of what Amsoil offers.

[@wesmullennix3495]

amsoil

[@abursaw]

Ecoboost motors need oil changes religiously at 5k. Them turbo motors demand it. If you can go 4k during changes i would do that. Heck, i was raised on 3 months/ 3k miles and if i had an ecoboost id probably adhere to that rule. I drive a 2.3L ecoboost for work and two months in and barely 2k miles on the new oil it is showing signs of needing changing. Also, shell rotella oil is surprisingly good if you are trying to be cost effective but its important to check the ratings on the back of the bottle to make sure your application will work with said oil.

[@davejenkins7735]

PUP is a cleaner base oil from NG and doesn't need the same amount of ADD package as other oils. -- The Motor Oil Geek

[@TheBeatenPaths]

I don't know why everyone jumps on their Signature Series at 4-5000 drain intervals. If you're not towing, racing, or taking advantage of it's extended drain intervals, its a waste of money. Run the test again with their OE 5W-30 and a Wix filter. (They sell Wix filters too). Then do a cost comparison. I'm new to your channel, have you changed the fluids in your diffs, transfer case and transmission yet?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Thanks. Probably will be doing diff & xfer case at 30k. Not going to attempt a fluid/filter change in a 10R80 without a lift. cheers

[@promx96]

Amsoil is probably superior but Pennzoil’s new all natural gas derived oil is pretty top-notch

[@bbartlow0307]

Reduced calcium (below 1300) is actually recommended for "direct injection" engines, which are becoming more common every year.

[@drivewayhero]

The key moment is when you said you'd been servicing your fleet for 30 years without any problems using mobil 1, an oil you mentioned scored lowest on project farm... so the takeaway is that with regular maintenance, below the manyfacturers recommended drain intervals, say 3-5k, you should have trouble free miles

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Yes. Based on my experience, ANY high-quality full synth changed at regular intervals will lead to very little engine wear over some pretty big miles. My Hondas at 200k sounded like brand new with no ticking nor oil usage. Too bad that "salt belt" rust did more damage than mileage or time did. I cured that problem by moving south....🙂

[@drivewayhero]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 oh my other question is do you ever switch to high mileage oil? They have some great formulations in the high mileage variety

[@drivewayhero]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 do you use high mileage at a certain point?

[@CsalbertCs]

I'd like you to test Quaker State Full Synthetic, there is a massive decade long blog run by a guy named 540 Rat. He has been testing oils for over 10 years and writing about it, he says Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-30 is the best oil. Let us know how your truck runs before and after too. I'd like to see you do a similar test with QSFS, please and thank you.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Hey bud, after this video I think I'm gonna stay out of the "oil thread" business. I have read the 540RAT paper and I know some very reputable dudes that run the QSFS based on this recommendation alone. My conclusion from this video was that at 5K drain intervals, literally ANY of the top oils will perform basically the same against wear and sludge buildup. I'll probably stick with the PUP, but yes I might try the QSFS at some point. cheers

[@user-zs1fr7im6l]

( ultra ) pennzoil platium and amsoil signature series both great Amsoil has and edge but cost a lot more

[@Ali_sye03]

Hey guys wha oil would u recommend for a 2024 vw tdi or 2024 corolla hybrid would like to make em last a long time

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

go to the project farm youtube channel and watch their series on the oil bakeoff. I think you'll find it hard to beat a top brand like Amsoil, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil One, Valvoline, etc if they are a full synthetic oil.

[@stevecooper8121]

Have 306,000 miles on a 2000 Silverado 5.3 using valvoline synthetic which didn't finish well in PF testing, but changing at every 3,000 miles probably makes up the difference and changing filter probably helps keep the sludge level lower.

[@danherrala2087]

So I think what Steve c. Is saying, just CHANGE YOUR OIL sooner than later and most vehicles will go the long haul, and always remember TAKE GOOD CARE OF YOUR VEHICLE AND IT WILL TAKE CARE OF YOU !!! What ever oil you choose. Peace out . And always be kind .

[@Rsantana380]

driving 8 miles a day to work and like 40 in the weekend i went from amsoil to penzoil, wife has a more expensive lexus and drive 40 miles a day comuting so we use amsoil on hers

[@bougieproletariat]

More additives doesn't necessarily mean better oil, if you have a better quality base oil you need less additives, I learned this from the motor oil geek.

[@Justmejbful]

Exactly. It doesn't make sense comparing the anti wear additives. The comparison should be on the wear metals and they are comparable.

[@question_it_701]

Here's what 80% of the population will say. "I use _______ and I think that's the best" --- it human nature to believe that you what YOU chose to spend your own money on, is the BEST. And more often than not, it's not because of any test or long term redundant/repeated testing. They started using it one day for one reason or another, and now it's "what they use" -- so it must be the best. Telling someone that the product they use is not the best, is a direct insult to their ego. It's my belief, based on Project Farm testing, that there are oils that test better, but the differences are often negligible in the top 6-10 brands, especially being that some do better in the lubricity tests, some do better in burn off and some do better in cold flow, etc. That being said, a lot of folks will nearly go fisticuffs over telling someone "their brand" (the brand they chose to use) is the best. Same with vehicle brands and power tool brands. No one ever fights over cell carrier brands or brands of potato chips or clothing. Motor Oil, Pickup Brands, Power Tools (generally Milwaukee vs Dewalt). Crazy how the human brain operates. 🤣 One thing is for sure.....Synthetic is heads above conventional oil.

[@TheGardenBanBanWorld]

I agree with you the cost is oil is way too much is way overpriced. I believe if you use penzoil with 3000 to 5000 you should be fine. I’ve been using mobile one full synthetic for 10 years and they never had issues because they change the oil every 2000 for driving in the city and I have no issues. I switched recently to Pennzoil and I believe it’s better

[@LA_Commander]

Although it's interesting to see the additive packages of the different oils, those numbers do not tell the whole story. The base oil from which the final product is made actually makes a larger difference than the additives mixed-in later in the process. If the base oil isn't as good, the motor oil company has to add more additives like detergents and anti-wear agents to make up the difference. So don't fall into the trap of "more is better" when it comes to additives. An example from the firearms community would be some guys think Ruger revolvers are "better" because they have thicker steel and are heavier than a comparable revolver from Smith & Wesson. Both companies make great firearms. But the steel in the S&W doesn't need to be as think because it's a better quality and stronger steel. Ruger's has to be thicker and heavier to equal the strength of the S&W firearm. So this is an example of people falling into the trap of "more is better". That isn't always true. And that is certainly the case with motor oil.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Thanks CB; how do you evaluate the quality of the base oil from an analysis like this?

[@LA_Commander]

@fixorrepairdiy4609 a very good question. Obviously you won't get that kind of information from a standard oil analysis. You would need to obtain the information from the oil companies themselves about what kind of base stock is used. I believe the Motor Oil Geek and a few others have done some research on this before if I'm not mistaken.

[@08gtcsgsxr]

Ultra is a great oil. What’s your opinion on it not meeting the wss-m2c961-a spec?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Well that was quite a rabbit hole you sent me down, Jimmy! I don't see anything listed in their data sheet for Ultra for that Ford spec, but I do see two other Ford specs that it meets. (WSS-M2C946-A and B1) No idea how those Ford specs relate to the 961-A1. As you probably know, their "standard" platinum does meet the 961-A1 spec. Did they not update it? No one knows, and there have been countless forum posts asking the same question. In the end, Ford is not going to deny a warranty claim because you used the best oil that Pennzoil has, and millions of miles have been driven on this oil without anyone complaining. Wish I knew more. cheers

[@machine7767]

It's interesting that the regular platinum meets that Ford spec, but the ultra doesn't even though it is more expensive.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

@@machine7767 Yep, and because of that there is an untold number of conspiracies and conjecture floating about. Be cool to actually talk to someone at Pennzoil who can answer that question. Is it possible to pierce the veil of corporate opacity? lol

[@08gtcsgsxr]

I’m thinking it (PUP) meets the specifications but it costs some money to get everything updated and approved. I don’t think you’ll see any issues with this oil at all, like you said it’s the best Pennzoil has to offer!

[@markshuell3198]

Had an acquaintance who works a Lubrizol. They supply the additive package to Amsoil. Remember, Amsoil is a blender,not a producer. Due to a confidentiality agreement between Amsoil and Lubrizol, he would not go into great detail. He did say this when asked about Amsoil quality. “They buy the very best base oil that ExxonMobil makes. They buy the very best additive package that Lubrizol makes. Put them together and you have a pretty good oil”.

[@zachtravers1]

To me, Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra Platinum is by far the best bang for the buck. It's very close to Amsoil performance but about 40% cheaper.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Yes. Amsoil is better but the only place you'll really see a difference is with extended drain intervals, which I will not do with this engine. Pennzoil UP better bang for buck definitely.

[@glenzee9083]

Both great oils with only price being the difference people chose. I use Amsoil 0W30 because you can't get Pennzoil Ultra in that grade. Won't ever look back. Pennzoil wouldn't even suggest an oil. They don't want the liability. Thier Euro grade didn't meet manufacturers spec of SN Plus for warranty. Never go beyond 5k miles and even lesser oils will do.

[@srmackin]

Keep this in mind - you can use the best oil, the best fluids, the best gas etc... in the end, the biggest factor will be the engineering of the vehicle itself. Is that EcoBoost engineered to go 300K?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Engineered? Perhaps not, but there are tons of them out there with more mileage than that, with indifferent maintenance.

[@dsprojects8580]

👍

[@chief1960]

I was a non bleaver but now i am found ,AMSOIL its group 4 Pao'S buy the best Got it?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Got it. Thanks chief.

[@resqjason2]

Amsoil makes different formulations if you want to run oem drain intervals which are cheaper. If youre gonna run the SS amsoil youre better off doing long drain intervals

[@NoWay-ye7yq]

How about to change oil like pennzoil more frequently ???

[@SSScottSS]

I've have see that Pennzoil doesn't have as many anti wear additives because their base is superior... therefore they don't need/want as many wear additives.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

You might be right...but how do we know that their "base is superior?" Just because it's made from nat gas? There is so much marketing fud and so few facts in this industry.

[@PrimeTime345]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609I think it has to do with the liquefaction of natural gas. Much like distilled water has the fewer impurities than filtered water, liquefaction of gas results in fewer impurities than refinement of crude. But I’m not a chemist so I can’t prove it

[@mr.mr.3301]

I’d be curious about Mobil and Castrol.

[@patrickhenry2845]

The only problem with Amsoil engine oil, is that the price is just too damn high.

[@jimotten6206]

I agree with you and don’t discount Quaker state ultra endurance

[@pauldiesel4582]

I have used Amsoil for 20+ years. I am switching to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. I can’t justify their high price for the engine oil. I will use Amsoil for gear oil, grease, and ATF in my Tacoma. In the driveline there is a benefit to premium products that run for 10K+ miles. Extended drain intervals are not good for modern engines from everything I have researched. Amsoil’s multi level marketing business model ensures a high price as everyone takes a cut from the product sales. Amsoil at one time was superior to everything on the market. Nowadays not so much, to justify nearly doubling the price. The best approach is to always use a high quality synthetic oil, premium oil filter and consistent oil changes.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

I think I'm there with you Paul. The differences are infinitesimal and not worth the 2x in price.

[@user-jk5nz9cd2k]

So a couple of weeks ago, the oil drain plug fell out of my '17 2.7 EB. Stuck in heavy traffic for about 2 min, til I could get pulled over, with no oil pressure. Hope I didn't hurt anything. GD Ford plastic plugs. Have always used syn in everything.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Can you find a way to safety wire it like aircraft mechanics do? 2 mins idling you probably didn't hurt anything but be careful to get a film on all parts before cranking up again. cheers

[@arnimkrause5696]

Seen cold pour tests with pensoil and mobil and in both instances amsoil signature lost. I live in Canada so thanks but no thanks. Will not use amsoil as around up to 90 percent of engine wear happens on startup. And yes the oils were all the same viscosity as in 5w30 weight.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Interesting. The Project Farm cold pour tests showed Amsoil being the winner of those two.

[@NathanielCasas-ky7zn]

I don’t care if amsoil is more expensive it’s what I trust and it’s what I love to put in my vehicle and if I can’t get those due to money constraints I buy Valvoline extended protection there’s no off the shelf oil that can touch Valvoline extended protection 👍 amsoil being the only other better oil out there

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Ya gotta use what you believe in! cheers

[@roush427red]

Have you ever think of adding motorkote and do an oil analysis to compare with these tests?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Never heard of it! I'll have to look it up. cheers

[@roush427red]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 project farm has a very good video of motorkote, excellent product, i use it in my semi truck and it gets a bit better fuel mileage but i felt a noticeable decrease in noise and vibration

[@mikefisc9989]

@fixorrepairdiy4609 Motorkote and Bestline are two fantastic oil additives that will reduce engine wear. However, they are expensive.

[@robertweatherly7781]

Amsoil the best no question

[@gregday9943]

Im a valvoline kinda guy

[@darrylsjodin7184]

Hopefully not conventional Valvoline. The project farm test had the Valvoline wear scar at 6.7 mm, where the other oils were from 5.78(Amsoil) to 6.12(Pennzoil Ultra), then considerably larger, Liquid Moly at 6.45. Most were within hundreds or tenths of millimeters of each other, but Valvoline was almost a full millimeter larger than Amsoil.

[@gregday9943]

@@darrylsjodin7184 advanced. Most modern vehicles cant run conventional. Project farm does good honest testing but any oil is fine if you change it. I will not run amsoil just because im not paying 10-12 dollars qt. If you want more info on oil fordboss does honest testing on oil also.

[@user-zs1fr7im6l]

The biggest thing is changing it often

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

agreed.