What is the Best Replacement Battery For Your F-150 PowerBoost?

[@da4944]

I have a 22 F150 with the Coyote V8. In the colder months, I've heard the weird chiming you mentioned. Thanks for explaining that mystery. Living in the South, I don't get winters below 50 degrees. One thing I learned is that the BMS is an important part of making sure the truck's BCM is able to accurately measure the battery SOC, voltage, and temperature. The BMS sensor is the little black box attached to the negative battery cable. When charging the battery, you need to make sure you have the negative clamp on the vehicle side of the BMS by not connecting the clamp directly to the negative post. You also should reset the BMS after charging or changing the battery to allow the BCM to relearn the battery SOC. If the BCM does not relearn the battery SOC on a properly charged battery, you'll get false warnings from the BCM including the truck not lighting up when approaching, the weird chiming, power save mode warnings on the infotainment screen, and other odd behavior. Resetting the BCM can be done by powering on the truck, but do not start the engine. Wait for the battery warning light to illuminate. Flash the high beams 5 times, then press and release the brake pedal 3 times. After about 10 seconds, the battery warning light will blink 3 times to indicate that the BMS has been reset. If your battery is good, this should eliminate the false warnings. If not, replace your battery.

[@eliedube]

Have the same problem in my 2022 pwrboost. Found there is an extra battery located under the rear right seat connected in parallel with the front battery. Another thing to consider is if you plan to recharge the battery... never put the negative clamp directly on the battery... put it before the bms sensor or on the frame. Even fully recharging the battery directly on the battery pole, the bms will still warn you for a low battery. The bms need to record the actual amps that goes into the battery in order to make it work. The bms is in deficit of amps, so it will still display low battery and in safe mode.

[@lewisrountreeiii2937]

Your videos are entertaining but more importantly they are packed with useful information. You are very good at explaining things which makes this channel a great resource for those of us who are automotively challenged when it comes to diagnosing and repairing what's not working. Thank you for taking the time to share these valuable videos with us!

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Thanks Lewis!

[@Easternoregon1]

Great video! I changed my 12 battery about a month ago with another brand and my powerboost has never been happier. Software update every week, no 1980 seat belt ding and it always greats my in the morning. It's a awesome pickup now.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Nice...makes a big difference, doesn't it?

[@jameszeiger8533]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 did you have to reset your Ford battery monitoring system?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Yes I did. Forgot to add that process to the video.

[@jameszeiger8533]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 can you recommend a tutorial video, even from a different channel that talks about this can be done?

[@jameszeiger8533]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I did find a tutorial on KZbin from Ford Boss Me

[@rileylowe8039]

I own a 2021 powerboost and man this video is awesome! my truck just started going into a low power mode at night because the battery was getting old. Im off to Batteries plus now to get one of these X2 asap and install it!

[@mikehoffy5765]

I just ordered this battery for my 21 powerboost. Hopefully it will be a good one. Also replacing the one under the back seat. My current stock battery is at 12.05 volts with the second battery disconnected and everything off. I was able to take advantage of 10% off for ordering online and pick up at store.

[@radioactivemike1]

Thanks again for a nice video! I’ve had decent “luck” extending the life of my battery by charging it quarterly. Currently I use a 10A noco charger and it seems to do a nice job, quickly. I’ve also noticed the SOC will drop rather low but if I run the hvac fan level 6 or max, the truck will kick the charge up to 14.4. I thought it was a strange thing, but it’s been confirmed by many to be the case. Last summer I tried to make my truck less able to be stolen when my wife’s key (and purse) were taken on vacation. I took the battery cable off and found the key fob still unlocked the door and for fun I found I could start the engine with the battery essentially removed. I did get an error message to check my charge system. 😂 It was a sleepless night thinking someone would stop by to take the truck! Anyway, this charge system is very different in this truck. I’m not sure anyone has a complete understanding of it outside of the engineering department at Ford.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

No kidding! I bought the service manual for it and I still don't understand the charging system nor the three different methods of starting the ICE. I hope someone at the dealer does. cheers

[@davidc8122]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Which service manual did you end up getting?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

@@davidc8122 www.factory-manuals.com

[@davidc8122]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Thanks for letting me know. What are your thoughts/impressions on the manual? Does it come with electrical/wiring diagrams, too?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

@@davidc8122 Well, it's *OK*. It's not a Haynes or Chiltons meant for garage mechanics, so it's not as user-friendly. An enormously complex vehicle. Yes, there are cabling diagrams and schematics included.

[@genephillips1147]

My tech at the dealership said Ford is having difficulty with their AGM batteries. I've had mine replaced twice, under residence I had less than 5000 miles

[@davidc8122]

Another very good video. I've just gone ahead and ordered a battery monitor for my '22 PB. Will be interesting to track it over time. And, if I end up needing to change the battery I've got this video to go back to as reference. Thanks, again!

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Thanks David!

[@davidc8122]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I hooked the battery monitor up today and low-and-behold it registered just below 12 when I walked near the truck with the key in my pocket. Sadly, it looks like Ford chinced out on the OEM battery. And, at some point in the not-too-distant future I'll be following your lead and replacing with an X2. Thank you for making and posting your videos. They are greatly helpful. And, keep up the good work!

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

@@davidc8122 Thanks David let me know what else I can create to help you. It's something that I probably need to figure out anyway! cheers

[@davidc8122]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 ok. since you asked ... hahahaha ........ FordTechMakuloco recommends doing the following at 30K miles: change trans fluid & change transfer case fluid. I'll be hitting 30K on my PB sometime later on this year. Do you plan on doing either of these yourself?

[@Paul-bf7nj]

Battled this all winter here in Kansas. Dealer was worthless but to be fair I am sure Ford tied their hands. I did exactly as you did, right down to the same replacement battery. No issues since the change. Thank you for another great video. I totally enjoy what you have to say and the reasoning behind it. The other thing I am researching now is the poor fuel mileage I get. (15.8 to 17.6 mpg) over the last 6 months. Granted I put 33 x 12 tires on it and that alone maybe the issue. However, I have never gotten over 20 mpg since I purchased it. (new). Trust me I have been so light on the pedal I was getting passed by Amish horse buggies…. Keep up the excellent work and thank you! PC 😊

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Paul, did you recalibrate your tire diameter in Forscan? Can you verify that your speedo/odo is accurate via GPS or a known measured distance? I've heard of lots of folks having the same issue when they changed to larger tires. If you think about it, the circumference is larger on a 33 vs. stock so the truck thinks that it's not traveling as far for the same amount of fuel expended. Fatter, more aggressive tires will certainly show more rolling resistance, but I think your root issue might be calibration. Also you will take a hit over the winter with an HV battery that takes a while to be warmed up and provide full current, plus winter blend fuel lacks the equivalent amount of energy vs. summer blend. cheers

[@robertdurkin8573]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 but it will add more milage to your odometer

[@rodneylw10]

I too have gotten the warning messages from my 2022 PowerBoost. Dad tested my battery and it load tests fine. So, we have been putting it one a trickle charger at various times and all is fine. My issue is that I have a two mile drive to work one way and it is not enough to charge the battery up during driving.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Some guys have actually installed flexible solar panels on their hood to passively charge their low voltage batteries for the same reason.

[@beri232]

I learned a loooong time ago that if you want the best battery for your auto…. buy an Odyssey Extreme! Best damn batteries you can buy folks! Pricey but they are the best!

[@aaronkowalewski659]

I personally use X2 batteries. They are great!

[@russvegaspd]

I have a 22 F150 3.5 eco, non powerboost. Apparently the battery problem is pretty common on both, but I followed someone’s recommendation on the groups. I was getting the low battery last month, so I put it on a charger overnight reset the battery management system and I’ve not had a problem since so we shall see. One more alert I’ll buy the bigger battery and skip the warranty.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Good plan, thanks Russ! cheers

[@akzoc]

I used Northstar batteries while they were available. They worked great.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

From what I understand, Northstar was bought out by the company that makes X2 now.

[@machine7767]

I am having a similar problem with my 2022 EcoBoost (Non-Hybrid). I have to charge the battery once a month when I get the warning then I am good for another month. From what I have read online the ECU only charges to about 80% then slowly charges more after that. Supposedly with FORSCAN you can edit battery charge level and change it to 90% and it fixes the problem. Will be curious in a year from now if your new battery has still fixed the problem or if you are back to where you started. I have also read on the non-Hybrids you can fit a larger group 49 battery in there although the blanket around the battery may not fit anymore.

[@cwqrpportable]

Another excellent video, thanks very much! Your knowledge plus your natural "teaching" talents are so appreciated...... At what point would you consider irreconcilable damage has occurred to an AGM battery?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Not a battery expert QRP but I would suggest swapping out when the battery can't hold a 12.6V nominal charge with the small amount of passive drain that this truck draws.

[@cwqrpportable]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Okay, very good. I smoked a deer about a month ago and my PB has been at the collision shop for a month getting the front end damage repaired. :( I've gotten a few messages on my Ford Pass app that the truck went into "deep sleep mode" due to low voltage. All this, even though I warned them that it was a hybrid and that there was a high parasitic drain on the battery and they should take some precautions, blah blah... (I knew I was wasting my breath) I drove down to the shop (1/2 hr away) just to ask them to start the dang truck and let it idle/charge. After doing this, the low battery warning disappeared on the Ford Pass. I pick up the truck today so it will be interesting to see what the state of this battery will be... I've been in a Toyota Corolla rental car; it will be so good to get out of that Singer sewing machine with wheels and back into a real vehicle! I just ordered your battery monitor from Amazon :)

[@brucesummers7448]

Dealers will replace the H6 battery with the same and not a H7 that is provided only with the higher trim level trucks. The Ford Battery Management System does not work well at all in preventing high levels of discharge which is very damaging to flooded lead acid and AGM batteries. Best to go with a battery like the Optima that is designed to function as a "deep cycle" battery and so should be better able to withstand deep discharging. One should also plan on using a good battery maintainer like the one from Schumacher with its 1.5 amp trickle charging.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Thanks Bruce. Seeing a lot of griping about bad primary 12V batteries. Makes sense with all of the passive draw of a 3 ton computer. I really like the idea of that solar panel that someone added to their hood!

[@grumpy304]

I have '23 Powerboost and i have had the low battery warning 3 or 4 times so far (bought it in early february 2024). I have started putting it on a battery tender once or twice a week overnight (gets to a fully charged state). I only drive about 5 miles a day during the week (or somedays not at all) and usually a trip into town on the weekends which is 20 miles each way. Even with the charging once a week i still got the battery message days later. From your experience - do you think replacing the battery with a high quality one will fix my issue? Or is my mileage just too low to every keep the battery appropriately charged without topping up via a tender? Thank you for any advice. By the way - I have watched all of your powerboost videos and I really appreciate the in depth information as I am a mechanical engineer and appreciate data driven decisions. Keep the videos coming!

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Kevin, it might be a little of both. (weak battery + not enough charge time) See if this improves during the warmer temps, and consider getting a bluetooth monitor to keep an eye on it and see what kind of passive discharge that you get overnight. Most people with this issue had it go away with replacement away from the OEM battery, so it might be just a bad batch of batteries during 22/23 builds. So much of this is speculation right now. All I know is that my voltage spreads are "tighter" with the new battery. cheers

[@grumpy304]

Thank you for the advice, I appreciate it - I will get the monitor for sure and probably a new battery as well. Otherwise I love this truck so far!@@fixorrepairdiy4609

[@paulrbruce]

I purhcased mine in March and just had the low voltage issue. Put it on charger over night and it said bad battery. The message did go away.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

@@paulrbruce I think Ford bought a whole pile of bad batteries that were built during the covid supply chain years. Mine is much more stable after R/R the primary battery with an X2.

[@paulrbruce]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 I saw the X2 battery and thought about getting one. I just purchased an 80K truck and didn't really want to purchase a battery. I ordered one of those monitor deals and will install it. I spoke to the dealter and they said they could put a new battery in. I really do like the truck. First Ford product I had purchased since 1992.

[@Splittin_Sticks]

Don't you have to reset the BMS? I thought you have to because the computer doesn't know that its new? These newer vehicles are a pain when it comes to basic maintenance items anymore. Good video!!

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Yeah I'm not sure if you saw in the info section on this video but as I was uploading this video I realized that I neglected to show the reset procedure, and I knew that *someone* would call me out on it! lol Yours is probably the first of many similar comments to come. cheers

[@biz4twobiz463]

The good news is that the FORD BMS is a smart system. So, if you replace the battery, all that is needed is to lock your doors and let the truck sit for a minimum of 8hrs. So, at least a scan tool isn't needed.

[@mikelevitt8977]

Lol I'm totally owner A.... my truck is still at the dealership and been there for 4 days. Worst

[@whales302]

I am looking at this truck right now but a lot of owners on You Tube comment that this truck can just shut down while you are driving it on the highway? Has this ever happened to you?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

No, never, and I have not heard of this happening to anyone else. Zero issues and I'm at 30k now.

[@babbitteb]

22 PB Lariat owner here…has anyone else noticed a link between battery voltage issues and the car defaulting to using the conventional/backup starter to start the engine vs the electric drive motor? My dealer swapped out the factory battery a couple months ago under warranty. Over the past week or so, I’ve noticed a sudden/regular use of the engine starter to start the engine on the initial cold start. My understanding is that the conventional engine starter is in place in case the state of charge of the high voltage hybrid battery is too low to turn the engine over. Since this truck is so damn complicated, I wonder if a voltage issue on the 12V battery might somehow be connected to this sudden use of the starter. I would guess low voltage on the 12V battery would result in a decreased ability to use the engine starter? 🤷‍♂️

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

The primary "cold start" method is the belt-driven starter; if you've ever been sitting in a parking lot with the truck on and heat or A/C on, the ICE will kick in from the BDS and the truck will rock, or "torque" from this starting event. In 2.5 years of ownership, I have only heard the Bendix/Flywheel start method used maybe 3 or 4 times. And yes, only when the state of charge of the 12V battery is low. I would suggest monitoring your 12V battery using the bluetooth device featured on this video and see what the difference is between overnight resting voltage and full charge voltage. When my 12V OEM battery got weak, overnight voltage would drop under 12V on "wake up" and the DC/DC converter would run up to almost 15V on full charge. No wonder I was blowing out tail lights.

[@nickmanny4612]

Boss thank you so much for this video. Seem like most PB owners have these issues and should replace their main 12V battery. What about the battery under the rear seat? Will you be replacing that battery as well?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Maybe if I start to see stability issues with the truck's software during starting events; that will tell me that this battery is getting soft. Otherwise hard to know how strong it is unless you outright disconnect it.

[@SonnyPruitt-q1s]

My 2016 F150 5.0 V8 has the orginal battery and starts fine still,610 cca.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

yeah Ford's been putting out some real shite batteries lately. Not sure who their supplier is for MotorCraft batteries. Glad yours is still firing.

[@SonnyPruitt-q1s]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 And my battery is a plain flooded acid not the AGM.

[@markterzigni2526]

True...my 23 left me stranded all because of the 12 v battery...wouldn't jump either....now I got the low 12v warning...nice truck but not super reliable because of these batteries...

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Been happy with how stable things are after changing mine to the X2. Batteries are Occam's razor...the simplest things can create the most havoc with these trucks.

[@markterzigni2526]

They just put the 3rd battery in my truck...back to good but for how long...I'll let them keep replacing batteries but will eventually put my own in or sell the truck. They had it a week and said they found no voltage leaks. I have the same battery monitor so I need to install it and compare old to new voltage range like you did.

[@ScottGreving]

What about the smaller auxiliary electronics battery under the back seat on a Powerboost? How do you best determine when it needs replacement?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

My understanding is that it's there to keep the other electronics lit during cranking events, or if you r/r the primary battery. Otherwise it's on the same charging bus. Good question though; I'm not sure of any PIDs available to separately view the charge status of that battery. I'll have to look at the service manual and see what they say. Thanks Scott...

[@ScottGreving]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Thanks for the awesome content. One of the best for tips on Powerboost. Really like my 22 Lariat - especially the ProPower feature for camping.

[@jeffsauer2198]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 maybe install another bluetooth module on the aux battery? would be interesting to see the voltage over time graph. :)

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

@@jeffsauer2198 interesting idea. The sensors are cheap enough. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@jdetweiler001]

Anyone look into replacing this aux battery? I just upgraded the main to the X2 based off this video, now I’m in “on to the next” mode.

[@Sylvan_dB]

LiFePO4 batteries are cheap enough, but the cheap ones are unsuitable for a starter battery replacement. I've been doing some experimentation with adding a LiFePO4 battery and a DC:DC charger with some circuitry so it will support the lead acid and keep it fully charged at all times. The starter will draw only from the lead battery, then when the engine is running the LiFePO4 charges in a controlled manner. And on a closely related topic... I'm annoyed at Ford. The powerboost apparently has 3 ways it can start the engine. One would be sufficient. Why the redundancy and why does everything stop if the main 12v lead acid battery is weak? If they eliminated the traditional starter (no more huge draw) and ensured controlled charging for the main 12v battery (no high amp or high voltage charging) then it could be replaced by a LiFePO4 to achieve weight savings, endure long non-operation times, and nearly indefinite life.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

I'm trying to figure out the three different starting methods. I get the ICE start based on the motor/generator (bump start), plus the start from the belt-driven starter up front, but the third bendix starter is a bit of a puzzle. I *believe* that third method is only used if the bus voltage from the DC/DC converter is too low to support the start logic to drive the BDS. Then it turns into a 1942 bendix "chew-chew-chew" starter on the flywheel which allows the motor/generator to spin enough to charge the HV battery. But your post is the first time that I've seen "LiFePO4" used in a sentence. cheers

[@Sylvan_dB]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Yup, I cannot figure out Ford. Sorry if LiFePO4 was confusing. Batteries have been a large part of my life for many years. Lithium (Li) iron (Fe) phosphate (PO4) is a less expensive and much more stable lithium battery chemistry, which has been gaining a lot of popularity for energy storage where those factors are more important than the slight increase in size and weight compared to the more familiar lithium nickel cobalt manganese (NCM) batteries common in portable electronics (cell phones, ...) and most battery electric vehicles (both two and four wheeled).

[@mt_9076]

Should you not have removed the negative first then the positive terminal ? And then Install back on positive first and tighten clamp then install the negative terminal and tighten ? Good vid other than that 😉.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Interesting. I just did a little bit of Google-Fu on the term "which terminal first" and it appears that you're suggesting the conventional wisdom of removing the negative terminal first. Everyone parrots the same advice across the Internet, however nowhere did it explain WHY other than to suggest "that it would cause a short if you do it reversed." Which, of course, is preposterous. I stand by my method of always ensuring that the ground connection is made first to any source, (and then connect the hot) unless someone with an engineering background can tell me why that is wrong. In home wiring you always connect ground and neutrals first, before tying in the hot. How is this different? 🙂

[@MichaelStaudaher]

Thanks for the information. I wanted to know if you considered the Optima yellow top AGM vs the X2. The Optima seems to be a good choice and I was trying to decide between the two. Any input from you would be appreciated.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

I think that they are produced by the same company. I believe Optima bought out NorthStar batteries and rebranded them as X2 Power. I don't know the specs on the Optima but you can probably find them online to compare vs. X2. So far I have forgotten that I have a battery in my PowerBoost which I guess is a key success criteria. All of a sudden everyone's having to become a battery expert due to the shoddy FoMoCo AGM batteries and the weak charging algorithm. Good luck Michael.

[@allenr265]

Does the blue tooth battery monitor draw or drain power from the battery? Thanks mate ☺️👍

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

yeah but maybe microamps, nothing more than a digital voltmeter. There's plenty of other things in the truck that draw a lot more during "sleep."

[@Sylvan_dB]

The battery core charge is annoying... I have ended up with a few spare batteries at home that need to be recycled, so I'll take one of those in when I go to buy a battery - core returned and new battery in one trip. Without that, and on a bright enough day, I'll swap the battery in the parking lot.

[@mooret025]

Did you have to worry about the onboard computer during your swap?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Nope. The aux battery took care of it, I imagine.

[@dy8863]

Did you not have to perform a BMS reset after replacing the battery?

[@MichaelStaudaher]

Well, I took your advice and bought the Bluetooth battery monitor, and now based on the monitoring I just ordered an X2 from Batteries Plus. When I installed the monitor, however, I noticed that the original H6 battery had been replaced by a FoMoCo H7 (the original battery blanket apparently didn't fit and was torn leaving a large gap in the blanket on the side). A couple of questions: 1. I noticed in your video that your battery blanket appeared to fit your new X2 battery. Did you replace it with a different blanket or was that the original blanket? 2. I know you said you reset the BMS after replacing the battery, but did you make any modifications to the charging level using Forscan or do anything to let the vehicle computer know that the new battery was an H7? If so, what did you do specifically? 3. When I installed the battery monitor, I experienced some sparking on the positive terminal when I loosened the small top attachment screw to seat the positive end of the monitor (the post clamp was not loose and the negative end was isolated and did not come in contact with anything). Did you have that experience and was there a particular removal sequence you used for the various accessory connections to the battery terminals?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Hi Michael, I'm not sure what engine you have. A PowerBoost should use an H7. 1) Original blanket 2) Original battery was H7 so no changes made in ForScan. 3) You should experience some sparking if the PowerBoost Aux battery is at a different potential than the primary 12V battery. If you don't have a PowerBoost, then you might have some passive draw somewhere. I usually disconnect positive terminal first, ground last, and assembly is reverse of disassembly. cheers

[@michaelstaudaher3308]

I have a 2021 with a PowerBoost engine. I bought it used just a couple of months ago. I thought from the various F150 threads I have read that the original battery for the 2021 model year was an H6 instead of an H7. The blanket around the battery in my truck definitely is smaller, hence the tear. The aux battery is the original and is the smaller 12v (BXAGM-Aux1-B).

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

@@michaelstaudaher3308 OK, perhaps the 2021 models had an H6. I think that was standard for the "regular" ICE engines like the 5.0. The newer ones are definitely H7 and some are trying to wedge an H8 in there with challenges. I don't think an H8 will fit in a PowerBoost due to the space available. The H7 is essentially compatible with the 94R battery spec so depending on the battery store that you go to you might find either one, although the 94R is slightly stronger spec electrically.

[@jblaze114]

wait, theres a 12v battery for the starter? if its a hybrid, doesnt the hybrid battery start the engine? since the car is technically on and driveable, thats wierd.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

There are actually three separate batteries. The 21 - 23 PowerBoost engine is started in three ways: 1) belt-driven starter, 2) "bump" start via the electric motor while vehicle is in motion, and 3) a typical bendix-type starter on the flywheel. The 24 models eliminate the belt-driven starter.

[@fZionists78]

My 18 F150 does have start/stop, but I avoid using it. The rest of my options are very limited. No touch display screen, no power seats, no power mirrors. Just power locks and windows, and a tiny backup camera screen on the simple radio. I would like to avoid an AMG so I can desulfate and charge it myself every few years. Any thoughts? Do I really need an AMG for such a limited option ecoboost? I understand there are more computers, but my F150 is quite basic.

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

you can probably get by with a simple WalMart battery replacement if yours ever goes bad. The PowerBoost is a rolling computer and has much different needs. cheers

[@kevrom502]

Hi Jim, with removing the main 12 volt battery in the engine bay. Will there be any back ground error codes come up in the system if you hooked it up to a OBD2 Code Reader? I too have had issues with my 2022 Powerboost for the same reasons. Urging with the Service Writer, just like you said. I have had my stereo amp Unleased 18 speaker blow twice as amperage was to low. Thanks!

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

I did not have any codes come up from removing/replacing the primary battery.

[@josipdolic6391]

Few times in these 2 years I’m owning f150 (bought new in 22 with 5.0) I would push the start button and it would not start,and usually after driving from work and quickly stopping at the gas station Weird

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Hi Josip...sounds like it drained overnight and the short trip took more charge out of the battery than was replaced by the alternator. Perhaps time for a battery check, or use one of these bluetooth monitors. cheers

[@josipdolic6391]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 ok thanks again

[@rangerbrown]

You have forgotten the other 12v battery that actually runs the welcome lighting ect...

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Nope, did not forget. That battery only comes into play to keep the electronics stable during starting events.

[@rangerbrown]

@fixorrepairdiy4609 recommend joining the 14gen group and read up on that. It does way more and is tied to the hood battery. Also change the soc setting so this does not happen again. Factory setting is 60%

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

@@rangerbrown Yes I know that it is tied to the primary 12V battery. But it does not "run the welcome lighting" per se. Perhaps my wording on the reply was confusing....the primary purpose is to keep the electronics stable during cranking, where it is actually relayed out from the primary battery during that process. I am a member of that forum and do not recall any discussion of the secondary battery function besides this. cheers

[@anthonyguess5528]

Is that battery AGM that you installed? I saw it said lead acid in the corner

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Yes, it's an AGM battery.

[@SpeedisSpeed]

Dude my motorcraft battery lasted over 7 years I finally changed it cause it was so old

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Yeah I think FoMoCo had a lousy batch of batteries that were made from 2021-2022. Seems to be isolated to those two years.

[@paulfamilyadventures439]

Is it possible to put a Lithium battery in?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

I am just passing along information as I'm not a battery expert....so take this for what it's worth. I hear that Lithium batteries have difficulty with charging in cold climates and might require external or internal heating.

[@cook1031]

What is the procedure to reset the BMS Monitor?

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Turn the truck on to "accessory." Flash the headlights 5 times. Then press the brake pedal 3 times. The battery icon will flash 3x to let you know BMS has been reset.

[@cook1031]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Thank you!!

[@cook1031]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 Thank you!!

[@biz4twobiz463]

If your new battery is more reliable and lasts longer than 3 or 5 yrs, then good purchase. However, at the cost of $350 in comparison to the Auto Parts store batteries listed, you could buy and replace those batteries every two years and still save money using the pro-rated warranty. Still nice video! OBTW: I have the same OE battery for my 2017 FORD f150 3.5L Eco 4x4 Lariat. In the 7 yrs, I have used my CTEK MUS-4-3-charger twice to recondition the battery. But, otherwise...it's been good. Now, YES, I know 7yrs is pushing it. haha

[@fixorrepairdiy4609]

Thanks. I have always been rewarded for buying quality in the past. I think Ford bought a bunch of crap batteries from their supplier during the pandemic years, and those are slowly being rooted out. Batteries are something that i never gave much thought to, just change 'em out every few years...but the PowerBoost is a very different beast and the 12V systems are much more critical. cheers

[@biz4twobiz463]

@@fixorrepairdiy4609 ... I certainly agree with quality control during pandemic. However, the BMS issue with FORD's is not specific to the PowerBoost only. It is actually related to ALL FORD products that have BMS. I'm sharing a GREAT video explaining the amp draw vs time to charge the battery. OBTW: This channel is an EXCELLENT resource for FORD products!! Hope you enjoy the video. Merci kzbin.info/www/bejne/f5CunoJjgMaFaqMsi=WaT3XpLOD-VPm4Z-