What the heck is a "Cyclas?" My One-Day (Medieval) Make

IN WHICH our intrepid recreatrix takes up the challenge to make a garment in Just One Day! In this case, it's a Cyclas, an early 14th century sideless surcoat (you may remember me talking about them in last week's CoCoVid capsule wardrobe video). Join me as I drink too much tea, struggle with my camera focus, pet my cat, and sew like there's no tomorrow!
Thank you all again for ONE THOUSAND SUBSCRIBERS! Stick around for my next video where I'll release the details of my DOUBLE-FEATURE SUBSCRIBER GIVEAWAY!
Katafalk Tutorial: katafalk.wordpress.com/2013/0...
August Uncommon Passage Tea: august.la/products/passage
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Music by Epidemic Sound: www.epidemicsound.com
Way Way Back by Lvly, Megan Wofford
The Norman Kings by Bonnie Grace
Tudor by Bonnie Grace
Mural Legend by Adriel Fair
Highland Hymn by Bonnie Grace
Cat on the Loose by Tiki Tiki

[@YourSewingBuddy]

I appreciate the cat snuggle break. I think very few realize what an important step in the sewing process that is.

[@kuugapop7584]

So right. I have to lay down a piece of decoy fabric first before I can begin on what I'm actually doing.

[@brigidscaldron]

That’s a solid suPURRvisor you have there.

[@hollyingraham3980]

Just a note for pile fabrics finishing. When you think you are done, take a corsage pin and go over every seam and visible hemstitch, using the pin to pull the pile out of the seam or stitching. A surprising amount gets bent down. Especially on ve!vet, when you do this the freed pile hides the seam. That's what was done on the elven over robes at Rivendell, LOTR. It's really necessary with fur and fake fur.

[@OpusElenae]

Good call!

[@samwhyatt8685]

None of my kirtles are properly completed without my furry purry 'pattern weight' or mid-seam kitty cuddles 💕

[@sophisteacated]

Love this!! Now I want one!! For the future, when ironing velvet you can use a terrycloth or towel with fluffy pile as a press board and pressing cloth to not crush the velvet! It works super well.

[@OpusElenae]

Good note!

[@ushere5791]

@@OpusElenae i think you may also be able to use a scrap of your velvet/velveteen face up against what you're ironing face down (i.e., pile to pile). but try it with scraps before you commit, especially if using synthetics. :}

[@hollyingraham3980]

Came here to say this!

[@sekhmetsaes]

love the pause for voidcat schmoopins

[@karenmelzer8878]

I didn't realize until now that I've been wearing "cyclas" for years! Made of wool with a sweater underneath in winter and linen with a T-shirt in summer. They are just wonderfully comfortable and if I want something more fitted, I use a belt.

[@BlameMyMuses]

Ironically, I recently bought linen in nearly those exact shades of pink and blue for me and my spouse, and made the exact comparison to cotton candy. Must be something in the air!

[@Alex-Sews]

What a cool garment! The whole curtain aspect reminds me of the old Carol Burnett Show sketch... "I saw it in the window and just had to have it!" Anyway... when does Bran get Supervising Producer credit on your channel? ;-)

[@OpusElenae]

I think it’s definitely got to the point where he needs SOME kind of credit!

[@betsyblackbird8098]

GIRL! THAT MUSIC! i LOVE IT. This is great content, thank you.

[@sissysgroi5174]

I live vicariously through your sewing, your kitty time, and that cute helper! Thank you CoCovid for helping me find you!

[@jakethesexysaint4812]

You so deserve the following after the Costube video. I was sold too, knowing this is a place that honors trans and non-binary people.

[@OpusElenae]

Hell yeah, trans right are human rights.

[@lisadianeetheredge5215]

I like the editorial asides!

[@yuhuie]

Your well past 1000 now...congrats

[@OpusElenae]

I am! It’s overwhelming in the best way!

[@beatriceandersson7810]

I don’t always love the way sideless surcoats look on people because it does look a little (as you put it) potato sac-esque, but I have to say it looks great on you! :D

[@OpusElenae]

Thank you! I really think having the shoulder and chest region sit close helps immensely. I was really pleased and surprised as how well the velveteen drapes too

[@angelicadinovalipa7739]

PINA reply, sorry.... these garments may have been fashionable at some point, but I view them more as a practical overgarment..... keep the (body) core warm while leaving the arms free for tasks.

[@bowenarrows7819]

Thank you for the realistic look of craft spaces. They really do take over everything!

[@OpusElenae]

I love ✨The Aesthetic✨ as much as anyone but I’m a single mother living in a tiny apartment. The aesthetic is not my lived reality and I feel like is disingenuous at best for me to only ever show the aesthetic side. It makes people feel like they can’t create because their space or wardrobe or life isn’t aesthetic enough.

[@carolempluckrose4188]

Hello beautiful black cat. We could be twins, especially as you help your Mummy make lovely things too. There are 4 of us and we all believe in lending a paw or 2 or 3 ....or 4! We do like your Mummy's new dress and the colour is lovely. Our Mummy is knitting g for Daddy and herself so they will have new sweaters for winter. Tabitha loves playing with the yarn, especially trying to tangle it all up! Best purrs, Phoebe.😺

[@ABC1701A]

Like the design. Might make one to wear over my Norman dresses for winter wear. Without the extra gore's in the side though for practicality. I wear my garb now on a daily basis (history bounding I think they call it now) because I like the fashions, and because I am old enough now to not care what others think. Will check the IKEA site on the net but with the current Irish lockdown I don't know if they are open. Thanks for the idea for my wardrobe.

[@AmandaAiken]

Love the R2TEA2 Pot!!!

[@OpusElenae]

I also have a round BB8 mug! I just love the droids.

[@sarahrosen4985]

I have the same one and a BB8 single serving teapot + teacup set. They bring me joy.

[@rowanseas4904]

Your cyclas looks really cute, and comfy too! I'm tempted to make one now, although probably not out of velveteen if it sheds that much :D

[@jessicaknox4837]

Fantastic sewing, good tea, great music, AND a cute mini-panther? Immediate subscribe, and that you for the awesome video!

[@Shannon-Townsend]

Loved this AND your scrap thread/fabric mason jar is a thing of genius. I'll be stealing that idea, I love it! PS: props on your magical black cat, they're the best!

[@katewelch446]

I'm using those same curtains to make an 18th-century jacket! Ikea is a surprising source of decent and cheap fabric, I'm a fan. Your surcoat turned out beautiful.

[@Mommamacnz]

Your cyclas looks so lovely and the cotton candy fairy look suits you perfectly.

[@BradKandyCroftFamily]

I could see that being worn in the present with a fun fabric pattern and a belt. Nice job, most especially for being done from start to finish in a single day.

[@OpusElenae]

That would be cute!

[@susanbailey36]

Love it! ❤ It reminds me of the Russian sarafan I make is my go to dress for everything . It's perfect for my pair shaped figure! Love your look the hair the flowers the under dress the colors everything! Rarely do I ever see my own personal style so mirrored!

[@lisascenic]

I love everything about this - your sewing, the music, and your extremely helpful studio assistant.

[@OpusElenae]

SO HELPFUL. Thank you!

[@ashfordwyrd7458]

I think you spent as much time scritching and kissing that sweet kitty as you did sewing :)

[@OpusElenae]

He’s VERY insistent.

[@elizabethunger9223]

I'm really enjoying the real look of your work space. Makes me feel so much better about the explosion that's mine at most times. This was so much fun to watch!

[@OpusElenae]

I try to keep it real. I have a kid and a cat and way too much to do. The house/dinner table doesn’t always get super clean before I sew.

[@kariemitchell5132]

I might try using acrylic yarn to keep my seams from fraying and see if that would work. Thank you for the suggestion of using yarn to help finish seams. I also like the fitted shoulder and chest of the garment. I think that makes it looks more polished. Congrats!

[@chukniloc]

I spot Smallworld and Ticket to Ride!! Yaaaay~ xD

[@augustwogsland3309]

It turned out great! I made a modern apron out of some pink Ikea curtains i got from the "As Is" section and I still have a whole curtain left over to make something. Second hand or upcycling is the best.

[@Arabhorselver92]

I’m so glad I found your page via CoCovid!

[@hazeluzzell]

That’s a perfectly acceptable woad blue.

[@susannekalejaiye4351]

Love my cyclases (have two) though your added gores really help (mine are very practical, one for work and the other informal). Terrific idea of fabric source and finishing the edges! But this wonderfully elegant. So nice to have accurate medieval!

[@habituscraeftig]

I'm a very late Cocovid addition to your channel! Saved all the videos I could for later scrolling.

[@OpusElenae]

Croeso! Im so glad you made it!

[@bytheriverbank1885]

I'm slowly making my way through the CoCoVids and so happy to have found your channel. Now working my way through all your vids and enjoying learning about pre-16th century clothing.

[@lyndabird9401]

I’m glad I found you via CoCoVid!

[@OpusElenae]

I’m so glad too!

[@nizarahdragon3973]

I made a side less sercoat but it was one with longer armsize I never liked the way it hung so I turned it in to a skirt

[@OpusElenae]

I also have one I turned into a skirt! I love repurposing clothing.

[@IDoDeclareify]

So dang pretty! I’d love to see a grw in your fav medieval look!

[@OpusElenae]

I was thinking of doing exactly that soon!

[@nancycollins9783]

Here a bit late, but needed to tell you I adore your working space. My style of creating really needs visual systems, like lots of shelves and bins!! I love your channel, I don't know you, but we would get along great, lol! My kitty says hello too.

[@OpusElenae]

Aw thank you! I enjoy visual systems and having a lovely space. Some of it is still a work in progress, but isn't everything?

[@andreaeray]

Helpful Cat is helpful.

[@autumn7143]

Congrats on the subscribers!!!

[@lilykatmoon4508]

OMG i adore your R2D2 teapot ❤

[@OpusElenae]

It was a gift!

[@kaiabea280]

I just found your channel and omg I’m so glad I did! I’m definitely going to make one of these, if only for how comfortable they look 🤗🤗🤗 thanks for making this

[@horsenroundstudio]

Oooo, have not heard of the finishing technique with yarn! Perfect for leftover bits of my handspun. Thank you for including that!

[@strangerbetter637]

I would love to see better detail on how you did the binding, as well as how you finished the inner seams with the yarn. I have greatly enjoyed your crafting videos!

[@OpusElenae]

I think I'm going to do a video on different finishing techniques!

[@deanndubois3738]

I really like that.!! Beauitiful work!!!! I want one... I have too make my shift first... 👍 job!!!!👋👋👋👋👋🤗

[@quink4334]

That looks so comfortable and the colour is lovely! Thanks for the great video, historical tips, shots of your cat, and film references - this is all totally my jam, I'm so glad I found you via CoCovid :)

[@tetchedistress]

Thank You so much! Lovely work! Hugs! Just found this video. You are awesome.

[@Ompe8]

Love the color. The dress looks so comfortable and versatile... It looks great on you.

[@kuugapop7584]

I'm so excited to try this when I start my next project. I had no idea what they were called. :D

[@therealhellkitty5388]

So good to see Bran in this video. I miss his whisper - shadow self. Great project, too!

[@theplussizecostumer]

Zigzaging with yarn! I never thought of that! Though I don't make Medieval garb as a rule. But it's something to keep in mind for other projects I may do.

[@e.1914]

On the fantasy side of things, I think this tutorial would be very relevant to making any of Arwen's overdress layers from Lord of the Rings!

[@OpusElenae]

Oh fantastic idea! I hadn't thought about how some of her dresses (the blue and red, blue and silver, and green coronation ones) are structurally really similar to a wider-necked cyclas!

[@wolfsmensch1_051]

i love the music

[@AndreaIris86]

Gorgeous

[@SarahBent]

Beautoful! And I love an editing aside.

[@SarahBent]

Also I hate to burst your bubble but you are almost at 1500 subscribers....

[@eyesofthegoddess2967]

just love it all!

[@larasta68]

New subscriber as well. I'm so happy I found your channel ! I love your style of videos 😍 And I am actually planning on making a sideless surcoat for a LARP outfit !

[@roisinsquill]

I am always excited to see new videos up!

[@AlltheKingsdresses]

I LOVE this. The color and texture are Devine.

[@narelleworks8448]

Love it!

[@alethearia]

I am just drooling over this fabric

[@selkiemorien9006]

The colour and the result is just beautiful! I really love it ^^=

[@BeautifulShaving]

The dress turned out so pretty & that color! I totally love it!

[@amandaperry660]

Good stuff.

[@agypsycircle]

Love the colors you chose and I may just make one out of the silk/wool blend I have in my stash that’s almost the same color!

[@MorphisMoneyMakeover]

You look gorgeous! I look forward to a time when I get to see to wear this in public!! I might have a small crush on that color...💜💜

[@melusine2913]

A trick someone gave me few years ago, it's to use a piece of velvet pile up on you iron board like that it"s protect your velvet when you ironed. So I use my scrap of velvet for that and it's work. Congratulation on you almost 1.5K

[@paloma_hill]

I now very badly need to make something that I can call a Gates of Hell..... anything. or surcoat. dude.

[@elyssadougherty8255]

Lovely fabric weight assistant. So elegant :)

[@margolambert1018]

I love that kitty always has to be where you are. Sweet baby.

[@PocketFullofPoseys]

Looks so good! I love the color!

[@OpusElenae]

Thank you!

[@judymcpheron5955]

First time viewer here. Beautiful sewing skills. How clever. 💖 the kitty 🐱. Reminds me of a classroom play my daughter was in. I made her a silk wreath of flowers for her hair. I have pictures somewhere.

[@marybull3715]

Loved this, cropped up as a suggested video after subscribing from seeing you on CoSy, looks so simple it could be my first project in historical costuming,

[@OpusElenae]

It’s simple and so comfy.

[@IvetaWells]

Hello, I love the colour, first viewer and also one of the new subscribers.

[@OpusElenae]

Welcome welcome!

[@runvidr]

I think a gold collar would look just as nice as silver. Also, I NEED your tote basket!

[@permission2shine09]

I'm wondering if this could possibly be a flattering design for a plus sized woman and still be period correct? I'm really struggling to find something that won't make me look bigger than what I am

[@MaridithSmith]

I have loved watching you grow & hope I can geek out over your adorable cyclas at a war some day..... ya know..... when we can event again

[@MaridithSmith]

I really need to get better at proofreading what auto correct types on my phone lol

[@signespencer6887]

I love those curtains, used them in my guest room and made a tufted headboard out of a curtain, to match. Also, a few pillow cover backs and things.

[@OpusElenae]

Fantastic! I'm a big fan or repurposing fabric when possible.

[@angelicadinovalipa7739]

Nicely done! Keep on creating! I try to nudge my own process closer to the medieval, BUT THEN, not everyone wants to spin their own thread......weave their own cloth, etc. EVEN IF WE ALREADY OWN THE EQUIPMENT....(as I do). I repeat. Well done... Inspirational!

[@Hadassah-KaquoliMReno]

Your hair is so beautiful!

[@OpusElenae]

Thank you! I rarely wear it down because it’s hot and tangles but I do like it

[@mandylavida]

Boxer snuggle breaks - not so much!

[@PeregrinMorningStar]

You should do a hobbity dress video sometime! I feel like you'd make a good hobbit.

[@sunnysal5345]

Do you ever run workshops on how to make a kirtle or related clothing? I have sewing instructors near me but none versed in even the remotest historical accuracy. Love your channel.

[@OpusElenae]

I haven’t! I’ve taught some classes at local events but nothing dedicated. I’ll have to think about logistics.

[@azureaviantoo2352]

I've always wanted to make one of these but the neckline piece was confusing. I just haven't done the deep dive to figure it out. Thanks for your wonderful videos!

[@OpusElenae]

I have been operating under the assumption that it’s a facing of gold silk, but I haven’t done a deep dive either.

[@Hotamma]

With the ironing of any type of velvet, I was always taught to use towels. That’s what my grandmothers used to use. So much cheaper than buying a special board and it worked out so much nicer that the velvet board. P.S. I really like the outfit. Was it very warm to wear or light

[@OpusElenae]

Wearing it over a silk dress in summer was not my most clever idea ever. It was quite warm. It’s going to be a good fall/spring dress. But I think making one out of linen would be cool and breezy for summer.

[@emilyrandall9776]

Doing this as soon as I finish my smocked apron ... which is going very well! What is the music you use? Really enjoying it.

[@lara-qi7up]

If you check the description she listed the tracks she used and the website she sourced them from! Which is so nice, I’m always wondering where KZbinrs get their music but no one ever lists them!

[@emilyrandall9776]

I must not be looking in the right place ... KZbin is so cluttered I can never find anything!

[@sharonthomas4997]

Bore da! Although a cyclas is 'voluminous', it give the impression that the wearer is dainty underneath all that material.....that's got to be good, lol.

[@rowanshadowwolf1]

New subscriber here (and late to the party.) "Something cute for the tornado"?

[@OpusElenae]

I definitely need to make them new garb…

[@Mikichan85]

Thanks for show the chaos... I thoug i was the only. 🥴🤗 Can you tell me how do you manage your long hair? And how grow their? And, in the end, can I have the measurements (in meter) of the pieces of this dress? Thanks

[@OpusElenae]

I mostly wear my hair up in a bun, wash infrequently, and never heat style. That’s about it. As for the dress, i go through how I measured things on my body, it’s better to do that than to make a dress based on someone else’s measurements.

[@gingersnap7822]

Would you recommend this for a completely novice seamstress? Or do you think there are better way for non-sewing first-timers to acquire a Cyclas or any Medieval-era Surcoat ?

[@OpusElenae]

Yes absolutely! Take a nicely fitting woven shirt as the basis for the shoulder and armscye, cut your neck hole big enough to fit over your head (you may wish to make a mock-up) and then angle the side seams out the the edge of the fabric, whatever length you want it to be! Easy peasy

[@breec]

Did you just give me a way to finish the seems on my skirt? Because I think you did. Does it have to be wool yarn? It's for a linen skirt I made last year (my first clothing item ever) and it's shedding horrendously because all the edges are raw lol A cyclas is now definitely on my list. It looks so comfy!!

[@OpusElenae]

It doesn’t have to be! I use wool because that’s usually what I knit with and it blooms nicely in the seam. There are nice bouncy acrylics that would work too, but I wouldn’t use cotton.

[@breec]

@@OpusElenae ooo okay. I'm glad I asked. I'll grab some next time I'm at a craft store. Thank you!

[@cherylstraub5970]

Have a question about the gores. Why don't you turn your gores so that the straight grain is up against the bias? That would keep the bias from stretching so much.

[@OpusElenae]

Usually that’s what I do (if you watch the video where I make a smock, I mention doing this very thing) but because this does have a BIT of a nap, I wanted to keep straight to straight and bias to bias on this project.

[@Leathurkatt]

I just wish there was more information on 11th and 12th century Irish garb...

[@OpusElenae]

Agree, it’s often frustrating

[@alexandria3583]

i got a dress from the thrift store a while ago and realized its sort of the shape of a cyclas, just shorter and not as flowy. do you think someone in the medieval era might have worn something like that over another dress? i know its hard to guess bc we don't know much but im wondering if i could use it in a costume? its a beautiful goldenrod yellow

[@OpusElenae]

Hm, I haven’t seen any evidence for that in manuscripts. The a-line tunic shape was very popular in the 1960s and 70s so it wouldn’t surprise me if those were still around!

[@alexandria3583]

@@OpusElenae thank you!

[@autumn7143]

You have a cat snuggle break, I have a dog snuggle and play break.