What you should do with every bicycle you have!

[@ADOTlied]

I love this guy, finally a bike mechanic who doesn't have a bun and lives in Madison WI.

[@drengskap]

A bun and a goatee beard and facial piercings.

[@beniciochomps2325]

I've watched so many bike videos, and I've just never seen so much helpful information as I have in these! Almost unreal to find someone who isn't trying to sell me a carbon race bike with DI2, and just wants me to know how things work in a kind, human way.

[@dillroastington]

Excellent advice. I typically use grease on all threaded surfaces when building and maintaining bikes, but you've convinced me to switch to anti-seize. Great info, thanks!

[@CodSlap]

For steel frames, what I do is that I simply replace the bottom bracket cable guide bolt with a hollow, stainless steel one: just make sure to file the bolt down so that it’s flush with the inside of the BB shell, so that any water reaches it easily. And once you have the frame open, Fluid Film Liquid A is a miracle substance (oil) that stays liquid seemingly forever, sticks to the insides of the steel tubes and protects them from rust with a self-healing layer of non-toxic oil. Highly rcommended. I throw some into the frame, tape up all the holes, slosh it around and then drain the excess. You’ll never have to worry about water inside the frame again. Good enough for NASA to use on the Space Shuttle - good enough for my steel moose. 👍

[@thankmelater1254]

I never thought of this stuff, previously. Lessons taken!

[@BikeGremlinUS]

Normal people don't think about that stuff - LOL. :) Note that you don't even need any special tools, you can always improvise: :) www.bikegremlin.net/attachments/learn-that-webp.349/

[@chintanjadwani]

Thanks as always for caring about our bikes :) ❤

[@r2r2r2o]

I would add few more points at a beginning of list. Those could save plenty of an unnecessary work: 1. Check for cracks around headtube, bottom bracket, seatpost mount, rear triangle. 2. Check frame "geometry". Is it still symmetrical? Are dropouts parallel? 3. Are all round mounting surfaces (headtube, bottom bracket etc.) really round? For steel/titanium frames such problems are fixable with appropriate knowledge and machinery. In case of aluminum there will be plenty of material for new beer cans.

[@Pinhead101]

Just ordered anti seize. Thanks for the info

[@drengskap]

I've always used copper grease on all fasteners and static interfaces, especially between steel and aluminium, i.e. bottom brackets, seatposts, stems, pedals etc and it saves a ton of trouble in the long run. Galvanic corrosion is a very real thing, not just a far-fetched possibility. Copper grease also prevents galling of stainless steel fasteners, which I like to use.

[@BikeGremlinUS]

Yes - 100%! I may not have stressed that in the video, but the anti-seize pastes are also called "mounting pastes" for a good reason, as you've noted.

[@patrickparisienne1917]

My mechanic has teamed my steel headtube, but uses a genuine Campagnolo tool that aligns both the top and bottom faces true to each other. Some great advice, as always!

[@mtbboy1993]

10:39 I agree, but if it's visibly bad it's a good idea to do it straight away. But if it's too big hole in the head tube, then you are screwed, can't add material, but if too tight you can remove material. Some frames don't even have flush headtube.

[@BikeGremlinUS]

For that reason exactly (can't put back material once it is removed), and because it is easy to see if the headset bearings are binding, I do it only in case there are problems once the bike is assembled. Yes, it is extra work (removing the fork and the bearings and then facing it), but it doesn't happen very often. Bottom brackets, on the other hand, are often not faced, it just depends to what degree (sometimes it is just a little, sometimes a lot). Relja

[@SuperOlds88]

Nothing wrong with bragging when you back it up. Looking forward to more of your videos.

[@mtbboy1993]

17:03 I found it to scratch the stems, so might scratch the coating off inside it. Atleast on Race face Atlas. And eventually the bar I guess. I've never needed to use it. I don't use it anymore unless I have to. The one from Park Tool atleadt scratches stems badly. But I've not tried them all. But I use a mini ratchet to tighten and go by feel, then I use a torque wrench, but I'm quite accurate with that sometimes it's perfect by feel, but best to use a torque wrench. A place whet ei never manage to do it by feel not even close is a seat two bolt post. But in a. Old hardtail frame I used it in alu frame as the seat tube has really loose fit, it eventually developed horrible creaking, so I used it there, it worked, but it also was not completely round and had spots that looked polished, so eventually it creaking there, so had to sand it down, I didn't have correct tools for it but used sandpaper, it worked but eventually got slight creak, but might do it a bit more. But the bike is too small anyway, and bad quality. So will build something new, I only use it for grocery shopping and so on.

[@SuperBicycleRepairMan]

Molykote 1000 does a good job on exposed threads

[@pascalbruyere7108]

I just ordered some copper paste on Amazon 😊

[@clivegower-collins9012]

I've been using moly grease but will switch

[@BikeGremlinUS]

Moly grease will do the job for lubrication (if it's what you have on hand, I wouldn't buy it as it's needlessly expensive for bicycle bearings, but it works fine). I wouldn't use it as anti-seize though.

[@chrisregister8021]

Anybody that gets you as there bicycle mechanic is very lucky.

[@31.8mm]

nicely explained, truly pro

[@bigmikeshooter]

Very helpful.. Greetings from Greece.

[@sig_das76]

Very very good information as always

[@maximiliangutmann]

YEAH, a New Albion Privateer frame!!!!😍😍😍 This is the next frame I am going to buy. This will be bicycle number six, this bicycle thing gets out of control!

[@BikeGremlinUS]

N+1 is the optimal number of bikes to have. :) The privateer is for my touring/gravel build. :)

[@maximiliangutmann]

@@BikeGremlinUS Words of Wisdom! Your webpage and your channel are both a great ressource, thanks for your work and ambition!

[@jeanmartin963]

According to my experience, do not put anti seize in the junction between seatpost and metal frame, and between metal frame and thru axle (thread). A lot of cracking noise when pedaling and a very high torque needed to unmount the wheel with a very very loud noise.

[@BikeGremlinUS]

Interesting. My experience so far has been opposite - with dry connections being more prone to creaking, and "ordinary" grease not being able to prevent seizing of aluminium-to-steel connections (like seatposts).

[@jeanmartin963]

@@BikeGremlinUS I think that is because in both case there is a deformation of the pieces when you are pedaling, with grease they can move softly, with anti seize you make a connection and you have a phenomenon of sliding-release (not sure of the term in english), like a chalk stick on a chalkboard. It may depend of the weight of the guy, I am heavy.

[@BikeGremlinUS]

That makes a lot of sense for pedals - a lot of movement there because of how (poorly) the mounting interface is designed.

[@BearZA_91]

Your videos are very insightful, thank you!

[@BikeGremlinUS]

Cool - glad to hear that. :) Relja

[@denverman6161963]

Your videos are just so damn good!

[@rosomak8244]

Spray some automotive hollow cavity corrosion protection agent in to the frame if it's a steel bike once a year.

[@BikeGremlinUS]

Will make a video on this topic. :)

[@mtbboy1993]

What's your take on using Loctite 243 on all threads? I do, but I have to or things come loose too easily. But I put grease behind the bolt heads. I even out Loctite on pedal threads, some say pedals can't come loose, in my experience they do, not often and not fast, but eventually it happens. This is due to thermal shrinkage of the steel spindle and the alu crank not shrinking as fast. I also found some stems to be hopeless even with Loctite 243 cured and torqued, like Race Face Atlas, var spun 10 mins into the ride after taking bike out in - 10c, it became bowder, bar spun, even had the stem slide up and twist before, in the summer too. Renthal apex 35 ø35mm performed well in rapid temp changes as long as it had Loctite 243. I've tested it with and without on bar clamp and steerer clamp. Loctite 243 is key. With temps going from around 20c to around 30c, the stem spun after a short while. I tested it with the stem front plate too lager, it happen in similar scenerio, bar spun. But never with Loctite 243. This stem got my seal of approval. It holds on for months, no loose headset, twisting stem or bar out of the sudden. It takes months before it gets even maybe 1 deg of loosening on the bolts. Using Loctite 243 on all adjustment bolts on the rear derailleur is also a must. If not they go out tof adjustment during a ride, if not enough this one maybe the next one. And of course eon the rear derailleur hanger threads where the mounting bolt goes. But eventually it will wear out so and will come loose, so this is why regular inspection is important. But if u didn't use Loctite 243 it would've come loose faster, not took months.

[@BikeGremlinUS]

That is some very good info that I'm not aware of (never had problems with pedals unscrewing). I would suggest posting this on bikegremlin.net so that the comment(s) could help other cyclists too (KZbin won't let you search and find comments, only videos). :( Relja

[@aintnobodygottime4dat]

Another great video....👍🏼

[@caseydbani1419]

Thanks for all the tips! Will copper paste make it easier for screws to get loose? For example bottle cage or mud guard screws get often loose on my aluminium frame, even when fit dry.

[@BikeGremlinUS]

That is a reasonable, logical question. I answered that (along with other common questions, and myths) here: bike.bikegremlin.com/7172/anti-seize/#5 Edit: Mind the tightening torque when using lube vs dry fit - as explained here: bike.bikegremlin.com/14694/bicycle-tightening-torques/ Relja

[@thetechnician832]

Hi From NZ. Interesting video. I have a basic Trek Marlin 5, 2017 model. I am about to convert to an E-Bike, mid drive motor Bfang BBS02. The bottom bracket is threaded shell, cartridge is a VP-BC73. Sometimes I get a lot of creaking when applying pressure on crank when cycling. Do you think I would need to face the bottom bracket before installing the motor or is this more likely seized catridge bearings? Also, would you recommend using anti seize paste on any new fixing bolts that come with the motor. Thanks

[@BikeGremlinUS]

Hi, I recommend posting technical questions on the bikegremlin.net forum, so that the answer(s) can help anyone else with a similar problem (and so that I can get corrected if I get something wrong). :) Relja

[@MrRaymania]

what is better on anti seize that grease doesnt do?

[@BikeGremlinUS]

Ling-term anti-seize protection. Grease lasts up to 6 months, generally.

[@draugmithrin]

You're on my wavelength, I do all that.

[@VladimirP]

I respect you for continuing to bring knowledge to people 👍 As genius of enlightenment does prepare any, So does experience and so genius does, The One is son of agonizing errors, The friend of paradoxes's the other one, And as the God for the contrive is chance, They all present at once, oh, so many Miraculous revelations just to us. Alexander Sergeyevich Pushkin, 1829 year

[@adamcritelli7238]

Hi, Cooper Grease, Is Dangerous for aluminum? Thanks

[@BikeGremlinUS]

I discussed that in chapter 5, uncer "C" in this article (the link should open right at the chapter 5): bike.bikegremlin.com/7172/anti-seize/#5

[@adamcritelli7238]

@@BikeGremlinUS Thanks a lot Ive bought some and in the instructions was written It was not for aluminum use

[@BikeGremlinUS]

@@adamcritelli7238 With bicycle pressures and temperatures, I've never had any problems. Though, I haven't had problems even with cars and motorcycles either. Beats grease by a long shot. Maybe there are some better anti-seize products for steel-to-aluminium connections, but for me, copper grease has prevented damaged threads or stuck parts over the past decades.

[@adamcritelli7238]

@@BikeGremlinUS thanks Why not use It for bearings If It last for long time? Sorry for my ignorance

[@BikeGremlinUS]

@@adamcritelli7238 Because it is not a lubricating grease - it won't work well for lubricating any moving parts. It is used to help mounting and prevent seizing of parts that don't move relative to each other when mounted.

[@oreocarlton3343]

info on the shoes boss?

[@BikeGremlinUS]

Shoes?

[@oreocarlton3343]

@@BikeGremlinUS the shoes you are wearing in the video?

[@BikeGremlinUS]

@@oreocarlton3343 Bought them in Decathlon store - some running shoes. They are OK. It says "Evadict TR2 TRAIL".

[@robertohernandez9309]

I want the t-shirt !!!

[@BikeGremlinUS]

The T-shirt: :) shop.bikegremlin.com/product/tshirts/writings/unions-unisex-t-shirt/

[@thankmelater1254]

"Brazed", "brazing" I think are the words for that welding. .

[@BikeGremlinUS]

Yes - I think so too. (I sound a lot smarter in my native - LOL :) )

[@xiaodingjones1554]

I use locktight for anti-seize, it will never rust.

[@BikeGremlinUS]

Thread locker can also actually prevent galvanic corroision.

[@sbccbc7471]

@@BikeGremlinUS As long as the threads aren't dry, right?

[@BikeGremlinUS]

@@sbccbc7471 Thread locker can seal and prevent water entry, thus preventing galvanic corrosion. To work as a locker (keep stuff from unscrewing when that's needed), it should be applied on clean, dry threads.

[@Exgrmbl]

3:35 you sure that's not nutella?

[@BikeGremlinUS]

It's always Nutella! :)

[@thankmelater1254]

Not only for preservation, but the worth of the bike is increased comparable to a bike that would cost more.

[@BikeGremlinUS]

Yes, you could say that. It does take a lot more man-hours compared to how bikes are generally built/assembled, but it saves a lot of time and money down the road. What I often see is galvanic corrosion destroying threads on the frame, not just the part that I'm removing, so even when I manage to remove the part, I can't normally mount a new, working part. Relja

[@thankmelater1254]

@@BikeGremlinUS I want to take a look at my bike but maybe not a good idea to take parts off after 4 years of riding all year usually daily, unless they come off smoothly.

[@chutony7802]

please install air con for the sake of comfort while teaching your lecture

[@BikeGremlinUS]

No pain no gain! :)

[@pentiuman]

Use bacon grease - it's cheaper, free (almost) and you will attract hungry customers.

[@BikeGremlinUS]

The hood dogs will keep your chain clean... :)

[@MidwestBriar]

My hand writing is so much worse.

[@kottelkannim4919]

Come on. If I cannot rely on a bike manufacturer/distributor to properly face the BB shell of a new bike then I might as well go into bike manufacturing myself. This is mechanic oriented stuff. Not intended for a knowledgeable cyclist.

[@BikeGremlinUS]

I’ve learned to not take things for granted and to check. Good bike shops will have done the facing during assembly. Factories? Oh. Where should I begin… :)

[@31.8mm]

not only that, we can't even rely on bike manufacturers for quality, many bikes especially carbon were badly executed, i got an alloy frame that had a misalignment everywhere.

[@kottelkannim4919]

@@31.8mm Was it a new frame? Could you specify the name of the manufacturer, model and year of production?

[@31.8mm]

@kottelkannim4919 yes new frame, it is just a brand that produces bikes nationwide, u prolly never heard of it, bike was bought at the time of covid, my assumption is because at that time the manufacturer pushed for quantity over quality but really it just that bad i didn't event want a warranty from them, and swear i'll never bought any of their products

[@kottelkannim4919]

@@31.8mm I respect your oath of secrecy. What nation do refer to by "nationwide"?