Hi, I am building my first custom. And it is funny to see how everyone (frame manufacturer, BB and crankset) are trying to shift responsibility for the chainline to each other. It is a pretty common Cannondale Supersix EVO Generation 3 frame. The front chainline is stipulated to be road standard (43.5mm), the crankset is a Praxis Doon and is stipulated to be 44.5m (unsure how they come up with the number, probably if used with their BB). I awkwardly and with a great trouble measured the front chainline to be 42mm. The Wheels Manufacturing PF30a BB that I bought only comes with 3mm worth of spacers and I had all of them installed at the driveside. Looks like I need even more spacers to bring it up to a standard, which is a bit odd. At the same time, the rear chainline measures 47.5mm which is even further out... However, if I pull a straight string fromt in between the two front chainrings to the cassette it currently lands around the middle of the cassette, which should not be the case, it should end up around 5mm inwards. Very strange. I doublechecked all the measurements several times. Any advice? Thanks PS I tried a simpler measurement method for the front chainline: I measured from the bottle mount bolt which appears to be centrered to the inner edge of the small and large chainrings, added two numbers and dvided by two, than subtracted half of one chainring thickness. It equated to 43.5mm road standard, but it still does not explain the discrepancy between front and rear.

Thank you. Got one for Christmas from mom.

Love the channel, each video is great and I'm very grateful for your efforts, as I'm learning a lot. Just to clarify - in the video you're viewing the axis from the hoods grip, eyeballing the correct stem length, but in the article, you're mentioning the grip from the drops to do this. Which is correct? In any case, it seems to me like this method only works when the fork is straight and not having a curve like with the old models...

great stuff

”PETROdedollarization”... ;-)

I have been working on my vintage road bike from the early 80's that i have not rode for many years until recently. When i was young i rode the largest chainring most of the time and never noticed the chain rubbing. Today, i to ride on the 42 tooth chainring mostly and i hear chain rub and wondering if this is a chain line issue. Not sure if age is made me more fussy or if there always some chain rub to be expected.

Great video, guys! Thank you for your time and effort.

Super Rezension! Danke für die hilfreichen Tips und Rückschlüsse. Nun weiß ich genau, was ich brauche und was nicht. TOP 👍!!!

I was trying to explain this to someone the other day, but it just didn't compute with them. I'll send them a link to this video.

Thank you very much for this detailed explanation. It has helped me a lot.

An excellent summation of the pro and cons of different design and component choices.

Awesome, thanx so much for this! It helps a lot to do it right the first time without trial and error 😀 Seems so simple "fill a grease gun" but there's a lot to get wrong... A big failure by the manufacturer to not include this instruction with the product!

How come you click twice with the torque wrench each time?

Nice that you mentioned trays' curved bottom.

Really valuable content. I LOVE your videos, BikeGremlin!

Thanks!

Brother teach us crictal thinking with use of physics

You're missing out on great shifting with 10s/11s/12s cassettes, the shift ramps improved shifting by miles compared to what's available for 7s and 8s, also better chains. I don't like Shimano STI's either and only use Sram STI's but even with friction shifters the shifting is so smooth and quiet, that the only problem I can see is loud modern hubs which may be too loud to shift by ear and would have to focus more on feel. However, Sram STI's are very reliable and the shift ratchet inside can be removed and serviced in like 10 minutes. They also don't have the idiotic flappy side swipe on the brake lever, that Shimano is known for.

I have NEVER seen such complicated and twisted method of measuring a bike wheel !

Thanks!

have you ever seen a rim with uneven holes spacing? does this affect the performance of the wheel?

Wow. I don't do it that way. But it's a fascinating topic because most people don't even think about how to get on, but after watching your video explanation of your method I can see that it differs so much from me.

I'm considering Abus CityChain 1010/170 170mm, as that would fit on a big mountain bike with big wheelbase, and around a pole or fit in award parking positions or around too big poles. But that one I found is 9mm thick. Whats your opinion about Xplus vs Plus? I got a Plus lock already, I snapped key, broken part came out easily. I contacted the local Abus retailer, but lock costs around 1800nok alone, but with cylinder made to the same key I got costs around 4000 nok( 338,27) so that's not cheap. But I'm not sure yet, but the 170mm length is seems good even for an enduro bike it seems. But I plan on building a shopping bike, Have a lock mounted on the bike and do exactly what you did there at 13:00.

I 100% agree with you. Why don't you buy Orbit Harrier? I believe the frames are made in a factory near to Serbia. Before the frames were made in the UK. I bought mine in early 2004 and it's superb.

Temu sure ships fast to me in So California and never had a problem getting everything I ordered.The problem is that everytime I shop there,I end up buying too many things,due to low prices.

Cool Bike!

The only thing ive ever liked about disc brakes is converting the wheel into a robust fixed drivetrain

Rather than saying we can support you on patreon you should be giving us some money for putting up with your jokes 😊

This is a good video. Thank you.

If you know you're going to continue bicycling for as long as possible, my advice is just start to buy a tool here, and a tool there and before you know it you have a substantial amount of tools that you will be glad you purchased. It's not like you have to buy everything at once, and because you cannot afford that then and there that means you will never be able to. Just spread your expenses out and understand that tools are an investment, and it's great to have the most common tools you will need and then you only have to evaluate what to do for the few rare jobs here and there. It's hell to sit there with no tools, and personally I just did not want to be that person because working on bikes are so simple compared to a car, which means most people can easily do a lot of stuff themselves. Just start, or you never will.

I love the steampunk mic stand.

Great content, your English is fantastic Fully understandable. Thank you for the information.

no issues with my freehub but i have bent the axle just where you pointed out

From your perspective, aka perspective of a bike mechanic, I can understand the dislike for inner routed cables and the hassle it causes when building or repairing bikes. But from the perspective of a rider, I really love when the cables are tucked away in the frame, away from dirt, moisture, and my hands when I am carrying my bike. It also looks very clean and tidy.

For iFixit kit and the poorly visible markings on the holder, just take a white paint marker and leave a mark over every symbol and it will be visible.

Always great content and today is really helpful for me. Thanks, both!

Try the bike headband lights either white or red plus white from Sofirn, exceptional deals for great lights with 18650 rechargeable batteries. Make sure you hit the coupon buttons and that they show up in your cart and also search the special deals. Their headlight for about $17 US is better than my Lezyne lite drive XL 1000 which sells for nearly $100. Shipping takes about 1 week from ChIna, free if you spend about $30 WHICH IS VERY VERY EASY when you see the deals, like their off-brand 1200 lumen with rechargeable 18650 battery for maybe $12. You can see demos and brand comparisons for their lights on KZbin.

Since you're looking for a good vice: I can recommend smoking.

I've learned that the cheap tools have usually ruined a lot of my projects or fail at the wrong time. Now I just buy the quality stuff, but if I can't afford it now, I'll wait or find the same tool used on eBay. I have 2 drawers worth of Park Tool tools that are almost entirely used or they were from a bike shop/store where the customer returned the tool and now it's an open package. As far are torque wrenches, the beam style is easy, very accurate, and much cheaper than the ratchet style. It doesn't give you that "click" when you've reached the torque, but I don't have to worry about making sure I've unwound the torque setting or wondering if I need to re-calibrate it.

I built up a redundant travel tool kit thats about 1/3 Temu, and Ali express stuff. Also included some generic amazon stuff, and bike hand rebrands from jenson. Rest is spare or worn out professional stuff from my work tools I replaced or upgraded. Some highlights of the chineese stuff. Tool bag, Sliding T Handle hexes, valve core removers, rotor truing fork, sealant injector, hollowtech preload bolt tool, okish allen/torx keys, In my work toolbox. I have found some cool things on ali or temu like knockoff of the Abbey DUB crank lockring tool, internal cable routing tools fork aircap wrenches, digital calipers, freehub extractor, and DT hub ratchet tools. My coworker has a chinese bearing press thats great.

I won’t roll the dice with a cheap torque wrench. At home on your own bike, YMMV. I won’t take the risk with a customer's $15,000 bike. I won’t risk a customer's safety if something gets under tightened. I had a generic amazon torque wrench that seemed fine the first few ranges I tested it on, until it didn’t work properly on another range. Imagine that happening on $2000 carbon bars

I have the same blue racheting torque wrench shown here. It works in both directions, and I used it sucessfully on my bikes, and also to remove seized glow plugs from my diesel car, so as not to snap them. It's great value in my opinion.

Currently have 40mm tyres on 15mm rims, think I'm aware it's not advisable now but I'm hoping as long as I don't run low pressures it's ok

Thank you!

I don't know what the best part is, the description of the tool or your outstanding dry humor. Most videos have annoying music or some loudmouth blabbing about how sharp he or she is. I always learn something or many new things listening to you, especially about "abusing" holes, haha. Great video and tool, not that bad for the money either. It looks like those depressions on the top surface are the carrying "handles" for when the tool is closed up.

I need one, I want one!

The BikeGremlin forum thread related to this folding table: www.bikegremlin.net/threads/pony-jorgensen-heavy-duty-folding-worktable-presentation.426/ Relja

Excellent video as usual. I love your content. Super good

👍👍👍

👍👍👍