Which Boots Can You Resole? (Cement vs Stitchdown vs Blake vs Blake Rapid vs Goodyear welt vs...)

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Stridewise

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 86

@milkbaby99 10 ай бұрын

The good thing is that the more boots that you own, the less times you have to resole each pair! 💡😅🥾🥾😊👍

@Stridewise 10 ай бұрын

hahaha this is the theme of an upcoming video 'dumb things about a boot hobby' XD

@dorian93 10 ай бұрын

As much as I love the look of Veldtschoen type construction, I always consider at least 1 resole and it’s hard to find a cobbler who can do it well for a reasonable price in a reasonable time. GYW is much easier.

@Bayou987 10 ай бұрын

Always fun to watch guys who know about boots and Nick chop it up. Well done.

@Stridewise 10 ай бұрын

Thanks man, glad you liked it!

@cheekibreeki9155 10 ай бұрын

For one moment I read that the guys who know boots chop Nick up and I had a minor panic moment.

@Bayou987 10 ай бұрын

@@cheekibreeki9155 😂😂😂

@Stridewise 10 ай бұрын

@@cheekibreeki9155 "now to use some Australian leather" "you mean kangaroo?" "no"

@thy6780 Ай бұрын

agree. Cemented sole is kind of common for where I come from (3rd world country) due to the cost of real stitchdown sole & earning per capita. So, combination of cement method and quasi-blake-stich/quasi-blake-rapid-stitch (by hand) OR combo of cement method plus hand welt are used for detached sole or resole by local cobbler and diy hobbyist like me

@Tallnerdyguy 9 ай бұрын

Im looking to change a boot sole to wear in a kitchen environment. As i am tired of buying $180 dansko every year that wear out.

@chinatownboy7482 10 ай бұрын

Cut off the damaged parts. Sand it down. Then glue on a new piece of rubber. That's how my local cobbler does every job. It's functional. You get to keep wearing those shoes until his work fails. Most of the Pacific Northwest bootmakers offer resole and rebuild. They actually replace the vamp, relast the boot, and it's a brand new piece of leather getting stitched down to the new sole. No new series of holes to perforate the boot.

@dwargonedragon794 3 ай бұрын

Interesting. But I think the vamp will have to be stitched on the old leather uppers so that can cause a Swiss cheese effect too but in another area. Well, unless they hand stitch it to the existing holes in the uppers which I'm guessing is possible compared to the soles where it's basically guesswork/approximation.

@chinatownboy7482 3 ай бұрын

@@dwargonedragon794 kzbin.info/www/bejne/h4Tdl5lrqbCmi7ssi=8sdKHgJmuyCfHq9x

@christianfreed Ай бұрын

Quick clarification on Handwelts: the midsole is carved out so that the midsole itself acts as the rib that the welt is stiched to (in GYW there is a separate canvas rib that is sewn on top of the midsole that is then sewn to a welt)...and it is extremely tedious to do

@christiancabiles8498 10 ай бұрын

I think the term for the sneakers with stitches on the sides of the high walled rubber sole is called "cupsole" It's the same construction used on the Jordan 1 and Air force 1 they can be resoled as long as the upper is in good condition. If your cobbler puts on the effort I think it's possible to reglue and stitch the upper to a new cupsole without adding new holes on the upper. They can use the holes already present on the upper as a guide to punch out the holes on the cupsole they have to hand stitch it. But of course it's really time consuming and takes alot of effort so the most practical is to just stitch it using a machine. But like the blake stitch you can only do it a number of times before your upper gets trashed by the number of holes on it.

@Crackers2549 10 ай бұрын

My man Nick gets around....! Love it... He's the reason I picked up a pair of Aldens..... You guys have a great channel here and always like seeing Nick with you... 5 STARS.... Greg in IN

@Stridewise 10 ай бұрын

hell yeah Glenn thanks for watching brother!

@Kudusole 10 ай бұрын

Very interesting to know, because I am always confused about if they can be or not! It'll be good to know if Moccasin constructions like Yuketen can be resoled as well!

@Stridewise 10 ай бұрын

depends how it's soled! you can have genuine handsewn mocs on blake stitch or GYW or whatever, but typically yeah they're resoleable

@wills-ol3so 10 ай бұрын

A resole on a gyw boot runs you $100 minimum, and more realistically around $200. If the goal was to minimize cost per wear what would be the best construction? If you had a leather sole gyw boot and repeatedly topy it wouldn’t this be more cost effective? A topy job is much simpler and runs you say $40. You actually mention a similar idea at 2:08 where you discuss chopping off the damaged bits and gluing on another sole. And the response is that cobblers “rig it” when they do this, and “you get what you pay for”. Why can’t this be done well, repeatedly? Red wings with the vibrant cristys are glued. My topy jobs never “fell apart”. So glue jobs are clearly doable well. It’s a mystery to me why the standard is a labor intensive gyw stitch resole, when there seems to be a much less labor intensive alternative. Let the glued soles take the majority of the beating and resole the gyw stitches as a last resort when something more structural breaks down (cork filler, etc)

@TrentonHeath 10 ай бұрын

We mention in one of our early videos “How to Prevent Your Footwear From Wearing Out” that sole protectors such as Topy’s, are an outstanding way of preventing your soles from having to be resoled. Yes, resoling your footwear with a half sole is also a cost conscious and perfectly acceptable way of resoling your footwear…if done correctly. I’ve seen a lot of botched half sole jobs from cobblers who throw it on for speed and not installed properly.

@ash36230 10 ай бұрын

Good to know. I find it a shame that some footwear has to get thrown away because they can't be resoled even tho the rest of it is in good condition

@Stridewise 10 ай бұрын

so glad this was useful for you dude

@pacocandano 2 ай бұрын

@@StridewiseIn Mexico, we make excellent Goodyear welted shoes and boots, but finding a cobbler like these guys that resole is almost impossible.

@kemitchell 19 күн бұрын

Re-/welting/ a true handwelted shoe takes more skill than rewelting a Goodyear welted shoe with glued-on gemming, but re-/soling/ is the same. Seeing a handwelted shoe, some high-end cobblers will offer resoling by hand, to reuse the same holes, since those shoes are nearly all very high end, truly handmade products. Most will just stitch the new sole on with a machine, as for any Goodyear welted, Blake Rapid, or stitchdown shoe.

@adampilarski7083 10 ай бұрын

🙌 Two of my favorite channels in one video!!!! 🙌

@Stridewise 10 ай бұрын

it's a crossover extravaganza!

@dwargonedragon794 3 ай бұрын

So from what I understand from this vid and reading some articles: Cement: disposable running sneakers and work boots for really harsh workplace (like scrap metal yards and junkyards). Maybe for mudstompers too. Blake stitch: barely worn boots (dress boots if you're a blue collar). Low profile and comfy sounds great on dress boots/shoes. Rapid Blake Stitch: confused about this one. Is it also "infinity resolable"? I mean GYW will have to have the uppers punctured once the welt fails (either due to salt, water, snow). Stitchdown: popular and almost all the elephant lace-ups and Bisons (long lasting leathers) I see are made this way. Unfortunately unresolable where I'm at unless manufacturer offers the service (like some will actually replace the entire vamp so new holes). GYW: the gold standard. Not really infinately resolable from what I've read. A sharkskin/elephant and even shell cords will outlast the calf leather welt. Better condition those welts regularly then. Or wear an over boot (which sucks) when wearing in snow. I find it hard to wear leather anything below the vamps since I live in a 6-8month snow and the rest are rainy. No wonder why blundstones and Uggs are so popular here. And oh, Doc Martin's with the synthetic welt. Well, unless we have a leather welt/midsole that is also silicone infused.

@siilekkk Ай бұрын

I still confused about Stitchdown. Is that easily to resole or wil be able to have big impact when we resole ?

@dwargonedragon794 Ай бұрын

@@siilekkk From what I know, stitch down can be resoled by any cobler who can do Goodyear or Blake, as long as the welt (or midsole) is still intact. The outsole is usually stitched normally via machine or are just glued, and it's the outsole that is usually being replaced. The issue is when the leather vamp+midsole+outsole is stitched all together (which is very common) for stitchdowns. It's like blakestitch where you are putting new holes on the leather for every resole and since the leather is folded out instead of in, the shoe/boot structure can be affected.

@siilekkk Ай бұрын

@@dwargonedragon794 I plan to buy Danner Rain Forest from Danner Boots with stitchdown construction on it. Do you think it's worth it to buy ? Or maybe you have collection from Danner ?

@UnknownUser-rb9pd 10 ай бұрын

Loads of glued sole hiking and mountaineering boots and shoes can be resoled and returned to their original state. The manufacturers design them so that they can be resoled and explicitly state on their websites that they can be resoled. There are also cobblers who specialise in this sort of footwear. European/UK brands like Altberg, Hanwag, Scarpa, Meindl and Zamberlan all have large numbers of models that can be resoled. It might be different with USA brands. It is the moulded soles that have a combined mid sole and outsole created as one unit using technical manufacturing techniques that are hard to obtain. These either have to go back to the manufacturer or to the specialist cobblers that have relationships with the boot manufacturers and carry out repairs and replacements. These cobblers exist in North America as well as most European countries.

@CAHiredGun 9 ай бұрын

Thank you for pointing this out. Re-soling glued hiking boot soles is an extremely common practice in the US as well.

@ShadeSlayer1911 Ай бұрын

This is actually really good information to learn.

@ttop64 10 ай бұрын

I have some old leather Reebok high tops that still have great uppers but the rubber soles have turned hard and brittle . I would like to know if that brittle rubber can be sanded off and a new sole glued on . Always ❤ these collabs with Trenton and Heath.

@waxedearth5425 10 ай бұрын

Great video! Lots of good information here

@zes793 10 ай бұрын

Nick sorry for unrelated question but what do you know about Comfort Craftsman insoles? How much leather do they have in there? Is it mostly poron?

@GoufinAround_ 10 ай бұрын

What if you have an old pair of Jordans who had the glue fail over the years and you can get a donor shoe to sacrifice the uppers to take the soles? I think the Jordan 1 might be the most likely candidate for that

@Enrico- 10 ай бұрын

Hand-welted shoes aren't harder to resole than Goodyear-welted ones. Cobbler shops don't have the Goodyear-welt machine, the machine they use to do the outsole stitch is the same machine that you would use on stitchdown boots or Blake-Rapids (Rapid was a model of outsole stitching machine). If you ever see a video with Trenton or Heath replacing a welt they're doing the welt-sticth by hand (though they're not punching new holes on the uppers).

@siilekkk Ай бұрын

What about stitchdown ? It's that hard to resole ? Still confused

@ShadeSlayer1911 Ай бұрын

@@siilekkk stitchdown is simpler than goodyear welt, and is probably easier to resole. However, because the stitch is running through the upper itself (instead of running through a welt) there's only so many times you can resole it before too many holes get punched in there and it can no longer hold. You can also run the risk of wearing through that part of the upper to the point where there isn't enough room left to resole. The advantage of goodyear welt is that the stitch runs through the welt. If it gets too damaged from too many resoles or just normal wear and tear, a cobbler can just replace the welt. And if they hand stitch the welt onto the upper, then they're not creating any more holes than originally. In theory, this means a goodyear welted shoe can be resoled many more times than a stitchdown shoe. The downside is that it's more complicated (and therefore more expensive) to resole a goodyear welted shoe. And realistically, how many times are you really going to resole your shoe before the upper itself gets so worn out that it's not worth repairing? Some people say that a stitchdown shoe can be resoled 3 or 4 times, whereas a goodyear welted shoe can be resoled dozens of times. But again, assuming you're not straight up abusing your outsole, how many times are you really going to be resoling your shoe before the upper is done for? And once the upper is done for, you're really just getting a new shoe.

@siilekkk Ай бұрын

@@ShadeSlayer1911 Thanks pal. I think 3 or 4 times is enough for me

@ShadeSlayer1911 Ай бұрын

@@siilekkk Depending on the boot though, you might then be able to get them rebuilt even after the upper is too worn down to be resoled again. Pacific Northwest style boots are usually good candidates for this. And I'm thinking you could probably even get them rebuilt into goodyear welted boots, which would then give you even more resoles. But again...how much are you really going to need that many resoles, realistically? I certainly like the idea of "infinite resoles," but I also recognize the unrealistic need for such. I'm not exactly the type of person who'll abuse the soles anyway. But with how expensive PNW boots tend to be, it might actually be worth doing such a thing. Or if you happen to find an old pair that needs some love, that could be good too.

@Regina99974 10 ай бұрын

Awesome, Nick! So cool! Clothing offer: We want to co-llab with you!

@agubser07 10 ай бұрын

Surprised you didn't mention White's in the hand welt section! Also, hand welted shoes are not necessarily harder to resole than GYW shoes (as long as the cobbler is not replacing the welt). Most handwelted boots/shoes use a machine outsole stitcher to stitch the outsole/midsole.

@EssenceofPureFlavor 10 ай бұрын

White's is a different "hand welted" construction. They're talking about the traditional English style hand welt. White's "rolled welt" is a more unique stitchdown hybrid.

@pgupta5826 9 ай бұрын

Can resoling result in shoes getting smaller and fitting tighter? Is this also a factor of the shoe construction? E.g. I recently got a pair of old Bostonians (blake stitched) resoled and they ended up coming back almost a size smaller. Apparently, as per the cobbler, this is normal for blake stitch resoling. Please help with your advice.

@chazchilly9697 10 ай бұрын

Great info! Thanks

@Stridewise 10 ай бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

@lookthroughmycamera 10 ай бұрын

Cee-ment! 🚧

@bariti86 10 ай бұрын

Since most GYW boot soles are attached to a gemming, and the gemming is mostly only glued to the insole, doesn't it make it so that the only thing connecting the upper to the sole is the glue that is attaching the gemming to the insole. The reason I am asking this is that you guys always say is that the gemming glue on redwings always come undone over time.

@hanifmckagan4448 9 ай бұрын

gemming doesnt attach the upper to the sole, it helps pull and square the upper down to the insole level. it only helps to put and stabilize the upper in place prior to stitching the upper into the welt. red wing crystys become problematic because you dont have a leather sole to stitch onto the welt or the outsole, which makes it really annoying if the gemming ever come loose

@bariti86 9 ай бұрын

@@hanifmckagan4448 So what you are saying is that the upper, the welt and the gemming are stitched together, and the welt is stitched to the midsole so yes upper is connected to the midsole via stitching, even though it is not stitched to each other. So, when gemming gets lost the only thing that can, if forced, be removed is the insole, but even than the shoe would remain intact.

@hanifmckagan4448 9 ай бұрын

yeah youre spot on! 💯💯@@bariti86

@kung_fu_panda_69 10 ай бұрын

It’s actually crazy you just posted this video. I just started wearing good year welted shoes and in one of them I need a resole. The boots is the Duke from Thursday and I’m looking for someone in Toronto to resole it. Also, is it possible to get my shoe ‘relasted’? I wish the boots were half a size smaller. I can always just put an insole but curious if there anyone in Toronto/Canada who does that.😊

@mateofenn 10 ай бұрын

I'm not from Toronto so I can't help with finding a cobbler. Also just get a new pair if you're willing to have them relasted. You'd have to take the whole boot apart and replace the insole. You'd easily run above $200 if you can even find a person to do it.

@zes793 10 ай бұрын

Relasting is possible but only a very limited number of people are willing to do it. Your best bet would be sending it to one of the youtube recrafting cobblers like Dr Sole or Wyatt & Dad but it'd cost you probably the same as 4 or 5 new pairs of the same boot. Availability of the specific last used for that boot is also a problem. Doubtful that anybody except Thursday Boot Co has the last for that boot in a half size down, so you'd be looking at paying probably ~2000 bucks to have a custom last made and the boots relasted. If they're extremely sentimental to you it might be worth it but if it's just a sizing issue you're better off buying a new pair.

@Player-125 10 ай бұрын

Aren’t these Thursday Tobacco Captains at 0:58?

@Stridewise 10 ай бұрын

no! portland just totally copied thursday's design hahaha

@jeffhreid 10 ай бұрын

Good video