Which Piggyback ECU? KTM Duke 390 125 200 250

If you want to choose which piggyback ECU for your gen 2 KTM Duke 390 125 or 250 then you have to know why you want it. That will guide you to the right type of ECU and from there the choices are much easier depending on what features you want and just how big your budget is.
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[@mrwomen5133]

What does it mean to ride your bike too "lean»?

[@MotoMirius]

Good question. It means that the fuel air mix doesn’t contain enough fuel. Aside from other problems it can mean incomplete burn because the spark can’t ignite all the fuel. This unburnt fuel can cause damage in the next cycle with pre ignition or too hot an explosion at the next spark creating the sort of damage as you saw on my Sportster piston. Skäl. David

[@raygun4468]

@@MotoMirius I have seriously modified my Duke 390 and already melted the pistons on one engine ... that was a completed rebuild with most parts coming from KTM power parts in Austria. The engines made in India (390 and below) are not made to a very high spec. When I saw the inside of the engine from the crank-shaft and bearings right up to the boar and head I knew it was time to raise the bar on the rebuild. I have a great little 400 single now that rips the shit out of any 600cc you want to put next to it on the track ... even when you switch riders it still slices the corners and accelerates better than the Ninja/Bandit et al ... I have spent a lot of money getting it to where it is though so stock bikes are cheap and as we all know you get what you pay for. I live in India so I see a lot of 390 Dukes on the roads. I took a stock one out the other day for a 20 min blat from the local dealer and it felt like a completely different bike. But then I have put K-tech suspension on the rear and Andreani on the front Frando caliper/braided lines and master cylinder/power part wave disc. Air filter and Arrow exhaust with a complete through the system that has been tuned to run in the sweet spot. Pegs/levers are LSL. High-end JT X-ring chain and sprockets. I could not stand the stock mirrors either.

[@pradeeprgatti]

In india... Race dynamics has brought fuelx pro.. what's your view on that...

[@mark0403]

If you still read comments, I know it’s been three years but I found this video mega helpful, and unlike some other ones out there it’s super clear and give a thorough overview of the options, also pointing out what changes between them and what level of dedication you need to install them. Really great vid keep the good work up!

[@MotoMirius]

Thank you and glad it helped.

[@theinfamousnoah]

I love the channel! About to search through your videos for an installation guide! Thanks for the video and keep up the great work.

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks. Much appreciated. Skäl. David

[@John-hi2yi]

Now I understand why this was a long time coming, great video

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks John. To be fair I could have done this some time ago. Life has been getting in the way of making videos recently. Skäl. David

[@John-hi2yi]

Much appreciated

[@robertedmunds3267]

David great ideas for us Duke fans!! I have tried a few different ideas to sort out the low speed fueling problems on the 390 including 14 t sprocket drilling out the DB killer and fitting a cat and resonator box delete pipe together with a Booster plug. For you guys on a tight budget a setup I have found to work really well is the following. Leave the exhaust completely std with the the DB killer intact , But remove the honeycomb section from the cat , Make sure you wear protective gear when doing this , I used a long drill and chisel to do this. The cheapest way to get the right fueling is fitting a Booster plug but where you fit the temperature sensor has a marked effect on the mixture. I have found with the above system drilling a clearance hole in the rear of the airbox and poking the sensor in till it touches the air filter element to be best! The bonus of this is that the bike looks completely stock which keeps the police happy.

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks for that Robert. Great suggestions but I would suggest that you do not drill out a cat - this can have very serious health impacts and all the money saved in the world isn't worth the risk. Instead replace the cat with a link pipe (not the full pre-silencer delete) - I will be showing fitting the Arrow one soon - it is the most stealth of the ones available since it looks like a stock pipe. Skäl David

[@pokojoe9741]

Wow. Best video and explanation on the subject I have seen. Thank you very much.

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks, much appreciated. Skäl David

[@offroad-adventures]

I was looking for a video that shares experience about the RB Evo but found the Bible of piggyback ECUs instead! I would like to thank you for taking the time to put all of that information in an easy to understand format...

[@MotoMirius]

Glad it was of help!

[@tinks43]

Great advise for those that don’t know, I hope it’s performing well for you & happy new year!

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks Dave. All going good. Hope you had a great New Year and that you are all well. Skäl. David

[@TheJWC56RSA]

Again, as always, good researched info!! TX David!!

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks. Always appreciated. 👍 Skäl. David

[@zboy2042]

These vids are good ! I understand abit better with the mapping and fueling now.

[@MotoMirius]

Great to hear. Skäl David

[@stangoodvibes]

So my 2nd-hand 2015 Duke 390 came with a V1 Powertronics ECU. The seller was pretty vague about it. On the weekend I found a connector cable that fits (a printer cable) and Powertronics nicely supplied me with the V1 software and drivers (they're onto V3 now) and I not only got it going but also managed to save the current (race) map and flash a less aggresive map I found online onto the bike. I'm pretty impressed with Powertronics. They were super helpful and I'm gradually learning about mapping and fuel/air ratios and ignition timing. The software lets you make map changes on the fly and push them to the running bike which gives you some idea of the affect the changes have made, and if you think you've got something worth trying it's just a case of switching the motor off and flashing the ECU before a test ride. This literally takes seconds. I'm playing around with adding more fuel at the low RPM range to see if I can smooth it out a bit. I'll let you know if I succeed or brick the engine :-) But I can recommend Powertronics and they're doing some good deals atm (I don't get any commission for saying this).

[@stangoodvibes]

p.s. my bike came with IXIL exhaust and K&N air filter

[@MotoMirius]

Powertronics has a good reputation and certainly is one that I think should be considered if you are going the map route. Skäl David

[@Screamifyoumeanit]

Great vid , that was really helpful. Thanks. I have a 390 adventure, I'll prob go the Coober route for my situation. Thanks again.

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks and sounds like a good choice.

[@thebikewrap3376]

As always....spot on! Thank you.

[@MotoMirius]

You are so welcome! Skäl David

[@JorgeParma]

👋 Hi. Best videos I ever seen on KZbin. Thanks. I have a kawa Z 250SL. Only modifications: the air filter and Akrapovic. I live in northern Italy and I have just done 700 km with a RAPID BIKE EVO, mono cylinder, that I think it’s very very similar to the 250 Duke. My mechanic put on 2 maps. At first I noticed a big difference in the first three gears, that apart from sounding a lot smoother than before, it seems that they are longer... And since I ride my bike only on the mountains with hard slopes and curves, I noticed also, that it has lost a lot of engine breaking, and torque rising hard hills...I mean, what I could rise before easily in the third gear, it’s not possible anymore, but it even in the second gear I feel the same. In the fourth fifth and sixth gear, it didn’t seem to have changed significantly. The mechanic told me following to ride, to collect more dates to complete the auto-tuning process...Do you think is this normal? Should I expect more changing in the next kilometres? Should I change it the plug too? Thanks very much for what you do on your videos and yours great advises!!

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks. Yes this is normal. It is not possible to build maps without data logging. This should be done under controlled conditions on a dyno before using the bike on the road. But hard to simulate heavy loads and engine braking well even these. Developing power is a slow and expensive process unless you are copying the work someone else has done. But i have not loaded maps onto the Evo, do you have a map switch? I thought this only works with the Racing unit? Skäl. David

[@JorgeParma]

@@MotoMirius hi. Yes, I can switch between 2 maps with an interruptor. He told me the 1 is for driving in the town, the 2 for going fast. I could do 700 km already but he told me it will take approximately 2000 km riding to adjust to be auto-tuning process properly. Now it’s frozen on the mountains so I can’t ride and I have to wait for the better season, then he sad we will adjust the tuning manually....What I haven’t understood yet is how much is the gap, in terms of improving the performance at the end of the manual adjustment ...But anyway he’s been working for years in racing teams so I trust him. As I said I note there is an improvement in general but to be frank I cannot feel much difference between the two maps. I understand too that it’s not the same to prepare a bike for racing on a flat track than to climb hills...Thanks again for your time and your passion. Greetings

[@MotoMirius]

Sounds like your mechanic knows what he is doing - not always the case! I remember the snow there, love the roads where you are. It’s always going to be difficult to get a good map for that because of the fast changes in altitude and temperature but hopefully you will get there. Good luck and thanks.

[@filipe9916]

Very clean information! Ty!

[@MotoMirius]

Glad it was helpful!

[@frankieferich157]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Frank

[@dylanclark9437]

Great video and info

[@MotoMirius]

Glad it was helpful! Skäl David

[@rohithpankaj395]

Great video David 👍 I am facing a problem in brakes it's become spongy and initial bit is lacking.(390 Duke 2019) plz make a video on bleeding the brakes

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks Rohith. I was fiddling with my back brake tonight so I think a video is due! Skäl. David

[@UrbanoModa]

Always a great channel. So the rapid bike easy basic piggy helps also with smoother running, less cuts outs when changing down coming to lights and snatchy/ jumpy fueling through gear changes, or I just have to learn more on blipping the throttle when changing through gears. I've heard so many people say the rb basic helped sooth out so much but I haven't seen anyone detail.this other than what's helpful in this video.

[@MotoMirius]

The RB Easy is a good entry level piggyback. But it's recently been outclassed by the FuelX Lite. Maybe this will get Dimsport to get their entry level fuel fully autotune product rolled out onto KTM and they will then be back in the running.

[@ntdeas]

​@@MotoMirius I'm just looking to make the bike less prone to stalling at low speed while practicing low speed maneuvers. Which would be better for this task? Rapid bike Easy or FuelX lite?

[@MotoMirius]

@@ntdeas I wouldn't fit the Easy - this is now old tech and Dimsport are replacing with a module similar to the Lite (but haven't got round to the KTMs yet). If you want a simple entry level box then I would go with the Lite. But with this bike, just because you are practicing low speed manoeuvres doesn't mean using low revs - be prepared to slip the clutch and keep the revs up at the critical points because the engine is not designed to be under torque at low revs.

[@AlexanderKnoppVideography]

Was just about to get the Coober ECU. Rapid Bike it is! Thank you for the informative video :)

[@MotoMirius]

Good choice! Have fun!

[@theopinionatedgamer9847]

Hi, love the video, this is what convinced me to get the rapid bike easy after getting my duke 390 g2 that did make a good improvement for the low rpm performance and smoothness. I now have the powertronic with quickshifter. I would love to see your opinion of the powertronic when compared to the rapid bike evo. The powertronic doesnt have autotuning however the software for tuning is really easy to understand and being able to adjust the quickshifter is also very nice as the stock config for it is pretty bad to be honest. I wonder if it has something to do with being developed in india where it is hot but over here in England where its cold the performance may be different so quickshift timings need to be changed.

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks and great to see you moving on as you learn. I tend to change the setup too much for PowerTRONIC to be an option - especially since I'm Apple based - too much work when I'd rather just be riding. Maps can be more complex than people think at first and yes, temperature, humidity etc all need to be taken into account.

[@arieldrach809]

I love your informative videos. So what would be the right ecu to get for the duke if I would like to play with the maps, what ecu offer the easiest to change software among coober, powertronics and powercommander?

[@MotoMirius]

Powercommander don't do maps for the 390 as far as I recall, Coober only offer their maps. Since I am not currently using maps, I haven't investigated in any detail, but as ever a lot will depend on your existing experience if any, and preferences. Skäl David

[@stubbis1139]

Im taking my license right now and I did a 3 hour trip on my drivin school's duke 125 and ive got one myself, I felt that it's really unstabe and struggles hard to accelerate in low revs. Instantly ordered a boosterplug yesterday, I hope it fixes the problems and that the acceleration is noticeably stronger down low Thanks for explaining and confirming my worries about duke 125s

[@MotoMirius]

Good luck with that. I recommend not trying to accelerate hard in low revs - that just won't work and the engine won't appreciate it - all the power is at the upper end of the revs, so don't try and ride with low revs. However, it shouldn't be unstable, hopefully that will go away once you become more confident on the bike - in many ways the Duke isn't really a beginners bike, it is responsive to rider input. Make sure that you are relaxed in your riding and especially make sure you are not tensing your arms or gripping hard with your hands - those things will create instability. So good luck, relax and have fun!

[@chubbydanny1999]

Did the booster plug make an improvement? I am planning on buying one for my duke 125. Thanks.

[@stubbis1139]

@@chubbydanny1999 It definetly gave it the kick it needed in the low revs making it more comfortable cruising around, other than that the throttle response was better and a slight power increase was noticed but not anything big

[@Ragnmark]

just awesome. nice guy

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks. Much appreciated. Skäl David

[@osamaaijaz4055]

hey David, This one is the best info ktm 390 enthusiasts can have! going thru ur vdo again.. wanted to know what tires re you using? sorry for my out of context question

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks. I'm currently using Bridgestones. My tyre guy tells me that nearly all of the tyres that fit this bike were designed for small sports bikes - which is why they tend to be expensive, but the upside is that all of them going be good on the bike.

[@osamaaijaz4055]

@@MotoMirius noted. thanks!

[@wernerxldata]

I just moved to a rapid bike evo after riding a coober lm for a few weeks. Wow what a difference, the bike is so much more responsive. It's a lot more work to install compared to the piggybacks that just click into the o2 sensor cable like the coober, fuelx etc but it's worth the extra work. Thinking of adding the extra wideband sensor kit as well, that enables to set a afr target throughout the rpm range. But already super happy with this mod 😊

[@MotoMirius]

Great stuff, well done on the installation. I do agree the Evo is my go to choice - I am considering upgrading to the Race to add in ignition mapping.

[@wernerxldata]

​@@MotoMirius Adding the ignition mapping will add bit more power, more than the fueling. I've used GET ecu's on KTM mx bikes, ignition makes a real difference. Beware for detonation as the pump fuel these days is far from great. We used race fuel in the mx bikes to prevent detonation. Another great change for power is adding a bit of compression, can be done with high compression piston but also by using a thinner base gasket. Going to do a rebuild of the engine next winter, I'm thinking of adding high compresssion piston then. Gives it a bit more torque. Guess it will be a hell of a job since everything is so small and there's a shitload of cabling that is routed weird in the 390 Duke :)

[@MotoMirius]

@@wernerxldata The Race is also autotune. I'm not going down the building maps route - I don't have the experience to reliably do so myself. You might want to have a look at Grey Area KTM if you haven't already. They were involved in the RC racing series (not sure if this still exists) and they stock head gaskets etc which could be of interest to you.

[@wernerxldata]

​@@MotoMirius I don't think ignition maps are auto generated. And mapping yourself is not that hard but you need information in means of afr, the default o2 sensor is not able to deliver that information. Rapidbike has the extra module for adding a wideband sensor, very interesting (also for autotune) but there's not much room (close to the cylinder head) to add a bung for the sensor. And it needs even more wiring :) For me the bike is in fact running great already, for riding it doesn't need changes anymore. Only thing is I also like the fiddling with that tech stuff, so if I make more changes it will be more just to try new stuff.

[@MotoMirius]

@@wernerxldata well mapping is not that hard, but good quality maps that are safe to use is not quite as simple as it appears - a little knowledge and all that has led to the demise of many an engine - dyno's are used for a reason rather than on the road or from recorded information - and even poor dyno operators create poor maps. It can be done, but it's not something I have time for. Maybe one day, but my to do list is way to long as it is :D

[@MohammadHamza]

Really appreciate your hard work However I had a question for Duke 200 I'll be installing Powertronics which will unlock my rpms upto 12k rpm and right now it's locked to 10k rpm.. So is it safe to revv upto 12k rpm without making any other changed into the engine?

[@MotoMirius]

It depends how accurate your map is to your build and the other thousand factors that effect the accuracy of a map to your bike, your riding style, your environment etc. Personally I'd edge it up a bit but I wouldn't go all the way. Hardcore engine builds where you push things to the edge tend to be expensive as the only way to find where the edge really is, is to go over it and then once you've rebuilt your engine, next time stop just before that point. Skäl David

[@geoffwilson7572]

Hi David, Thank you so much for the comprehensive reply, it's given me a few things to think about. an Adventure bike that doesn't like running slow is a bit counter-intuitive as I'm always wanting to shift up a gear and one can only surmise that high-speed fast gravel is was their thinking for its off-road capabilities. I suspect then that it's really a Duke with knobbly tyres truth be known. Did I understand you right saying that this particular engine could be damaged not keeping the revs high? My take on a better sounding exhaust is perhaps a baffle removal, something with a bit more of a weighted grunt without being offensive rather than the muted sewing machine stock box. Regarding the short legs and the lowering kit, I'm afraid it's needed, yes 26.5" inseam so one legging it but I'm managing ok. I chose the KTM for its lightweight really, my eye was on the RE Himalayan but the KTM won out with the better highway speed and extra power. I find the smaller lighter machines better for me as the years advance, not as strong as I used to be and the heavier bikes I find a hand full. The loss of warranty would be an Issue, the TFT on these machines fill up with condensation damaging the display, some are on the third or fourth replacement and I bet they are not cheap. Overall I am pleased with the bike, Maybe part of the answer is me adapting as well as adapting the machine. I am finding your content on the KTM 390 very interesting so please continue with this, you have my attention! How about your 390, did you buy it as a right off?

[@MotoMirius]

Yes, in that case lowering is a must do, and the light weight is a big factor in why I bought the 390. Yes it was a technical write off ie repairable as it had been slid down the road, but cheaper for the insurance company to sell as is than to buy new KTM parts and have an expensive technician fit them. I chose to buy a scratched up bike so I wouldn't cry when I put new scratches in it. The only bikes I know that can be safely ridden at low speeds at low revs (ie at idle) are Harleys - it's known as lugging the engine and has a reputation for breaking transmissions. I know someone who likes to ride their 390 at 5mph in first gear in traffic and uses a piggyback to achieve that, but I couldn't recommend it. That said, that isn't so much the issue so long as you don't try to have the bike run at idle in gear. If KTM had fitted heavier counterweights the engine would run as smooth as silk at low revs. But that would mean the engine wouldn't rev up or down as quickly making it a less aggressive bike to ride. KTM make competition motocross and enduro bikes - they don't make trials bikes. Adventure bikes are indeed designed for high speed highway and gravel roads - just check out the marketing from all the manufacturers, none of them are marketing adventure trials bikes for low speed technical sections, so none of them are really intended for running slow. RE are a bit of an exception to that but that is because they aren't really designed for high speed highway use. To keep warranty you need to go down the Coober route, so make sure it runs a map that matches how you modify your bike. TFT screens have a reputation for condensation - but as always with bikes and cars the people who shout loudest are the minority who have an issue, so the real scale of the problem is hard to gauge - and this certainly isn't unique to KTM nor does it just affect the KTM TFT screens. Baffle removal works nicely for improving the sound, depends how much money you want to put into that.

[@amungkasar7263]

David thats a nice information. Um can you make a video ? On how to lower the the handle from the front part?

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks. What do you mean by lowering the handle? Do you mean lowering the handlebars? Skäl. David

[@amungkasar7263]

Yahh yahhh

[@michaelhobson8331]

Hello David. I just subscribed to your channel. Great information shared! I recently purchased a 2019 Duke 390. I have an Akrapovic slip-on. I am looking to Decat, airbox mod (k&n or other?) and modify the front sprocket. I am seriously looking at Coober, however rapid bike seems more the way to go. Any additional thoughts? I will do the odd track day. Mostly windy roads around our lakes and mountains. Btw, I reside in British Columbia, Canada. Cheers!

[@MotoMirius]

Hi Michael and thanks. K&N doesn't provide much if any improvement over stock with stock airbox with or without modded airbox lid. Coober should work if you choose the right map and it should protect the warranty, if you aren't concerned about warranty I wouldn't choose Coober. Otherwise it comes down to whether you want maps or not. If you have the ability to do maps then have a look at PowerTronic otherwise RabidBike is the easiest choice - but it can throw errors if you live at high altitudes. Skäl David

[@michaelhobson8331]

Thank you!

[@thomaswilliamfirby180]

I installed the Rapid bike easy and it was putting on the EML so I phoned up cal-sport and the fella on the phone was really helpful he got all the information from me and he called me back after talking to rapid bike and told me to turn the pot for the fuel trim down and we’ll it carried on for a while until it got sorted out and rode it around for a bit after the EML was out for 30+ miles so fingers crossed 🤞

[@MotoMirius]

The adjustability is one of the main reasons why I recommend the RB Easy over the Boosterplug. Good luck! Skäl David

[@thomaswilliamfirby180]

Moto Mirius it’s running ok now but I do have a problem that I had before any mods this bike likes to cook NGK spark plugs

[@MotoMirius]

@@thomaswilliamfirby180 Not heard that before. There is the usual run of people wanting to run Iridium but nothing out of the ordinary with the stock plugs.

[@NateEnns]

Hi David - Love the channel. thanks. Question: I’m comparing the Coober vs Power Commander ECU Piggybacks. I live in Ontario Canada and the cost to get the Coober up here is almost $300 more than the Power Commander. Would I really have a benefit between the two worth it with the Coober over the PC5?

[@MotoMirius]

Coober is a locked unit, PC is programmable but comes with a basic map. PC would give you a more accurate map but you'll need to tweak it and that process can quickly eat up the price difference. Coober also maintains the KTM warranty which the PC will void - so whether its worth it is a question only you can answer!

[@alannicholson4904]

Hi, very informative and interesting as always. I know there are so many variables that concrete answers are not always possible but could you please give me your opinion as to whether the Rapid Bike Easy would be enough to compensate for a cat delete on a 2018 KTM 390 Duke with no other mods? Thanks.

[@MotoMirius]

Typically it should be enough - so long as you don't make any other mods. If you plan on doing anything else then you might want to plan ahead for that.

[@alannicholson4904]

Thanks. The most I would plan to do would be removal of cat and the big ugly pre-silencer and replace with probably the Leovince cat delete pipe that you have used. Would still keep stock air box and stock pipe with baffle in which should hopefully keep the neighbours happy.

[@paulmears5330]

The Powertronic FuelX and FuelX Lite are simple lambda piggybacks that work well. The FuelX Lite is a pretty effective auto tuning unit, no switches or buttons, works best on milder mods, like improved intakes/filters, mild exhaust changes.

[@MotoMirius]

FuelX hadn't even been dreamt about when this video was made.

[@paulmears5330]

@@MotoMirius true, but my reply is for people such as myself who came upon this video recently, before finding your later video covering the FuelX and FuelX lite…

[@lucascarracedo7421]

Thanks for your awesome videos on these great bikes mate! Just watching now, 4 years later. I have a question regarding piggybacking the ECU. How can KTM actually know what you did if you're basically hijacking the data that goes into the actual ECU? I mean, it's mostly remapping the values prior to them reaching the ECU as I understand it. So I guess they'd need to take a look at some sort of log in the actual ECU to infer what you actually did.

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks. I would guess you are talking about warranty? If the bike goes into a dealer in a modified state, ie a box fitted or evidence of the wiring being modified, then this is likely enough to justify voiding the warranty. I doubt there is any particular evidence left in the KTM ECU if you have removed the unit or reason for the dealer to be reviewing the logs for it. Bear in mind that the dealer initially at least bears all or most of the costs of a warranty claim so they have some motivation in finding a reason to void an expensive claim - but they also don't want to pay a tech to spend hours going through the logs.

[@lucascarracedo7421]

@@MotoMirius Thanks for your answer mate! Yeah I meant exactly that. Unless the bike is physically modified in any evident way and I took the precautions to remove things like the piggyback ECU I imagine it wouldn't be very obvious. I don't expect to have them cover any mistake I make while playing with the ECU. Just asking because sometimes even if whatever happens is unrelated to modifications users made, that's a good enough excuse to void the warranty. Anyway. Thanks and glad I found your channel. It's not only a great Duke resource but there's tons of really valuable bike information presented in a very professional way.

[@srfsno_]

Great explanation of ECU choices and reasons for choosing one over another. Recently purchased a new 2019 KTM duke 390. Based on your explanation, I just purchased the rapid bike exclusive Evo for the KTM duke 390. I also like the autotune feature that it has and I may be changing parts out and want to have the autotune compensate for changes that I make.Two questions I have. I contacted rapidbike and they said the KTM dealership I am going to should take a minimum three hours to install the unit. Seems like a long time to me. Your thoughts on how long it should take the dealership to do this? Also, I would like to get a quick shifter installed in the bike. Your thoughts on that accessory and any specific one you would recommend for my bike now that I have the rapid bike exclusive unit? Thank you.

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks for that. The installation isn't difficult but it is time consuming as the tank needs to come off. They might also remove battery and airbox to get a more professional instal than I did. Three hours seems a lot to me but they will want to test afterwards. I've not looked into quick shifters but the obvious choice would be the rapid bike unit as it's made to interface with the piggyback. Good luck with that. Skäl David

[@srfsno_]

Moto Mirius Thank you!

[@norbertkettner2578]

@Moto Mirius hello thanks again for your message !!! :-) I just want to protect my engine from too lean fuel mixture, and I bought a Mivv decat pipe can I mount it on the engine without any problems ? and which system do you recommend for fuel control? too Euro 5 thank you for your help ! I always watch your videos :-)

[@geoffwilson7572]

Hi David, I'm a mature rider and I have a 390 Adventure new Sept 2020, just running it in now, but as you describe it's pretty awful to ride in town and traffic, very jerky and lumpy but not too bad on open roads. I would appreciate your thoughts on how to approach this in terms of gearing( chain and sprockets) and electronics ie, a controller as I would like to fit an aftermarket exhaust, purely for a better sound. My intended use for the bike is a bit of touring on fast highways once Europe opens up again, local green lanes, with low rev riding, under 4000rpm. I would appreciate it if you think that perhaps the stock bike is best left alone in my case. Power parts on order or fitted Skid plate , Lowering kit, Crash bars, aluminium panniers and 790 high screen.

[@MotoMirius]

Hi Geoff, I've not seen the Adventure in person so I can't comment overly. My opinion of the basic issue is that this is not a Honda and KTM do not make a bike to be ridden slowly in low revs. Whilst some of it is a fuelling issue to meet emissions, and this will only get worse, much of it is an engine design choice where there is little rotational mass - which means it's like trying to drive a race car in heavy traffic - possible but unpleasant. The fact you need to check the oil when hot shows it's essentially a dry sump dirt bike engine, and it rides like one - it revs quickly and most of the power is in the top end. My solution is not to ride under 4,000 revs but this isn't a good solution for green laning - but then neither is a louder exhaust. If you wish to ride at low revs then a fuelling device will help and I know people who claim they can ride slowly in low revs without issue. I'm not yet convinced that isn't going to damage the engine. There are some who claim that fitting a 43 tooth sprocket at the back improves the jerkiness, and gives better cruising. This is a route you will need to go down if you want to ride fast highways in Europe on a 390. You may also want to consider a 16 on the front first and then try a smaller sprocket on the back. If you wish to protect your warranty then your choices on fuelling device are limited to the Coober unit. If you want louder then there are choices but it depends what you consider a better sound. I would question your choice of lowering kit unless you have very short legs. It isn't a good idea for green laning, and I know people who've bought one and never fitted it. I'm assuming you are used to riding off road/ adventure bikes and dealing with a taller bike, so know you need one.

[@springy-2112]

Hey David great information, you've done lots of homework and i've learned something new about the piggy back being between the sensors and the brain .. When I was a mechanic(during the war Rodney) we had a points gap , advance plates and carb jetting to play with. None of this black box mumbo jumbo..but we also used to spend as much time tuning and repairing as riding/driving 👍🏻😀 I guess that's progress . Thanks brother , ride safe and peace 'n' love 👍🏻☮❤

[@MotoMirius]

Cheers Springy. Truth to tell I’ve barely got the hang of how carbs work never mind all this newfangled stuff. 😂. Skäl. David

[@onerousealien745]

omg thanks allot this helped. I was about to buy a booster plug. which should i buy for a duke 125 2018, i have only changed the mid pipe

[@MotoMirius]

That is a question only you can answer. In the video I set out the decisions you need to make.

[@onerousealien745]

@@MotoMirius okay thank you alotttt

[@MoxyDave]

2017 Duke 390 here. I run a Leo Vince midpipe, Powertronics ECU (fully programmable) and stock exhaust. Sounds great, runs like a top. FAR better than stock, especially at low speed/low RPM. The difference is night and day. Losing the cat/airbox removes about 10 lbs from the bike too ... highly recommended. I still love the Duke 390 for messing about town. Not much of a tourer but running errands or just riding around town it's hard to beat.

[@MotoMirius]

PowerTRONICS is a great unit, so good to hear that it's working well for you. I would agree that this is best as a short distance, technical bike.

[@MarryMeLorde]

The coober should be self tuning as well, their website states that it should be able to accommodate for any combination of airbox/decat/exhaust modifications.

[@MotoMirius]

This is an old video, I really need to update it, but yes, the manufacturers have now upped their game as they realise that not everyone wants to plug a laptop into their bike.

[@AmayaPvP]

Thanks for the video! I have an RC390 and I'm researching a bit about piggybacks Quick question, in the video, you're referring to 'the forums' for the rc390, are you talking about a forum in particular? because the ones I'm part of, never answer any question regarding custom maps.

[@MotoMirius]

Yes, but when I say forums, I do not mean Facebook - I have yet to see a Facebook group that I would recommend for anything. There used to be an RC390 forum that was very, very good because it was built around the RC racing series so people were technically minded. www.rc390-forum.com/ Not sure how active this still is or if it's as good as it used to be. For a Duke forum I would go with www.ktmduke390forum.com/ - there is some overlap between the two models

[@AmayaPvP]

thanks a lot!

[@Calvingarage]

Hi bro, in the past I have asked a few things to you, always good info on your channel. Thanks for that! In this case, do you know exactly the flow rate of the stock fuel injector in the duke 390 ? I have my bike decated, mivv exhaust and open air box, I don't really have a wideband to know how lean is right now but definitely by the sound of the exhaust she is really lean. I'm asking because I'm looking for a injector upgrade. Any info will be great! Thanks bro ..

[@MotoMirius]

Hi and thanks. I don't have the flow rate on the stock injector - but the recommended upgrade is this one for a standard build - grayareaktm.store/en-gb/products/rc-390-injector. This assumes of course you have the appropriate fuelling device.

[@andrewwiltse8882]

Hi David I have a 2019 duke 390, I just put a Werkes decat and box removal pipe on it. I’m still running the stock muffler with baffle in it. I didn’t know about leaning the bike out. I like the idea of smoothing it out at lower speeds but more importantly don’t want to damage the engine. I don’t have a lot of money right now. Would putting the cat back in help avoid leaning the bike out? Or is this setup ok if I don’t open the air box up? Love your videos! Thank you

[@MotoMirius]

Hi and thanks! My feeling is that you are on the borderline. There is a risk, but I can't quantify how big it is, but I wouldn't make any further changes without putting in a proper piggyback. I'm personally not a big fan of smoothing the low range revs out - but that's largely because I rarely have the bike at low revs. Unfortunately modding a bike always has risks and is rarely cheap. Skäl David

[@andrewwiltse8882]

Moto Mirius ugh! Not the best place to be. I’ll save my money and do it right. Again thank you for all your time, you’ve done me a great service.

[@Cre8teQ]

Hello Mate, I think the Powertronic ECU has autotune. Think I've seen an install video on YT & after the install, the guy idles without touching the throttle for a 15 minute learning phase, then it's ready. Also, looks quite a bit cheaper too...

[@MotoMirius]

PT were quite clear in my conversation with them that they don't use autotune because you can get a better result from a map - which is true - if you have the right map for your setup. The 15 minute idle resets the stock ECU on a gen 1 bike to it's default setting; clearing the learning adjustments it's made to the stock map - it's ten minutes on a gen 2, but some people don't realise that and the extra five minutes doesn't do any harm. Skäl David

[@joebotz1243]

With an air box lid new filter, slip-on exhaust and one of these modules how much of a power increase could you expect? Even six horsepower would be nice

[@MotoMirius]

I have heard up to 9 claimed but personally I have my doubts and since I have not tested on a dyno I would not claim any figure since without a before and after dyno everyone is guessing. A lot will depend on what you choose. For example cheap Chinese slip on or one whose main selling point is making the bike louder and you could lose power

[@The_gordo_channel]

Soni did the chamber delete. Still stock cat and stock silencer and it has way more grunt now. Not too loud which is what I wanted but it was too quiet with the pre silencer. My rapidbike easy however is throwing the check engine light for the o2 sensor. I know that it's not supposed to do that so do you have any suggestions? I tried to do the 15 minute idle relearn and it didn't make a difference. Do you think it's safe to run the pre silencer delete with stock ecu and no added fuel?

[@MotoMirius]

It's very common to get the check engine light with the Easy - to be contrary, it's why I prefer the Easy to the Boosterplug. The reason I like the Easy is that it has adjustment - they do recommend a setting but I don't recall what it is. You might try moving the switch - though I'm told it can take a few rides to clear it. 10 minute relearn will only help if you live somewhere extreme such as high altitude. With just the presilencer removed and no other changes I think you will be OK with the stock ECU as the presilencer is mostly just sound deadening with little impact on performance. Good luck!

[@prashantxxrawat]

Hey, I have got duke 250 and want to disable the abs in it however, when I press the bottom left button on the cluster it displays " not legal " ( The abs light does not start to blink ). Is there any solution to overcome that ?? Already mentioning that, I don't wan't to do it with the abs fuse removed.

[@MotoMirius]

Not legal means that it is not legal to ride on the road like that. It has nothing to do with the ABS function. If you have switched it off, then it is off. Skäl David

[@JerryR390]

Thats correct, in my case i have downloaded maps for my power commander, had tunned them but they arent perfect, this time around im getting an AF gauge so i can fine tune my map.

[@MotoMirius]

It's an ongoing learning experience!

[@broda_lol]

hey, i have ktm duke 390 2017, now i only change the slip on muffler to akrapovic also i delate from him db killer, but im new season i wanna buy airbox lid cuz i wanna have better sound. You think i should buy any ecu for that? If yes what you will recommend?

[@MotoMirius]

If you are looking to add an airbox lid then you have an ECU. What I recommend will depend on the answers you made to the questions I gave you in the video.

[@riccardobrancato8864]

Hi. Love your channel. What do you know about Cobber ecu?

[@MotoMirius]

Hi and thanks. Have you watched this video? I explain in it my views of the Coober ECU and why you might choose it or not choose it. There are good reasons to choose it and good reasons not to choose it. Skäl David

[@riccardobrancato8864]

Moto Mirius Yes I watched it. But you talk about so many ECU. All I have done to my bike is a slip on and a k&n air filter. Would I need a ecu? Thank you.

[@toxicgamingsnipz1216]

Hi thanks for all of your videos they are a great help! I have a 2017 390 duke with the only power related mod being a leo vince slip on.. I’m a student at the moment and haven’t enough coin to buy the powertronics piggyback and wondering what your thoughts would be on using the rapidbike easy in order to stop the jerky feeling at low rpm?? Would it work with the slip on (DB Killer removed) thanks

[@MotoMirius]

Hi and thanks. I would look at the FuelX Lite in your situation - better than the Easy because it is autotune and will automatically adjust if you remove the DB killer. Check the website for your local dealer.

[@toxicgamingsnipz1216]

@@MotoMirius after a little research on the FuelX products and watching your video I went and ordered the FuelX lite as you suggested! Never knew they even existed! Thanks for getting back to me so quick

[@MotoMirius]

@@toxicgamingsnipz1216 Good luck with that and thanks!

[@hannesdobbelaere]

does the rapid bike easy made for the duke 390 also fit the husqvarna 401 vitpilen? can't find online... are the connectors the same?

[@MotoMirius]

Connectors will be the same but you should contact RapidBike as the map might be different

[@mionggg]

Will decat and removing premuffler, changing to an aftermarket muffler reduce back pressure resulting in losing torque? Can these be gained back thru a piggy back ecu?

[@MotoMirius]

Removing the premuffler is not optimal for power. Back pressure is not optimal for tuning - but with a stock setup shockwave tuning can be a work around to achieve better tuning - the stock 390 reacts well to some back pressure, hence the retention of the premuffler or using a link pipe that includes a secondary chamber

[@BikeriderJ.B]

Hey David great channel ! ,I have gen 2 Duke125 (2018) and have only a slip on scorpion exhaust. I have pops in the exhaust and when i shifting up, it also sometimes cut off when i downshifting and does not run smoothly at a fixed speed. would the RB evo offer a solution here?

[@MotoMirius]

Pops in the exhaust are normal when you have a more free flowing exhaust. Most riders consider them a good thing. They can be a sign of lean running but also can be normal - the stock exhaust is designed to absorb them - so long as this is all you have done, it probably is fine. Cutting out when downshifting normally happens on hard braking and typically is the result of not pulling the clutch in enough so that the wheel braking is transmitted back through to the engine and stalls it - it's a small engine with intentionally low rotational mass to give fast revving and also fast deceleration of the engine. If by fixed speed you mean slow at low revs then I recommend using a lower gear and higher revs - see the comment before about the low rotational mass of the engine. You can mask this with a piggyback but lugging an engine at low revs is highly likely to create engine or transmission damage - just Google for 'lugging an engine." If you are considering further modifying your bike I'd recommend going straight for a proper piggyback as you'll need one anyway - otherwise I see no real need just for a slip on change.

[@BikeriderJ.B]

@Moto Mirius , thx man 😉 cutting out is most of the time when i pulling the clutch en de engine is free then de engine drops dead but i can start it and runs normal.

[@AJ-hg2vj]

What is the Best piggyback ECU für the Duke 125 2017? I want do decat my Bike (Only cat) and maybe want to add a Tuning exhaust (maybe GPR). I only Want To doesnt blow up my Engine. And i Doesnt Want to lose power

[@MotoMirius]

Watch the video and make your decision. If you want to modify your bike, you need to make these decisions yourself. If you can't make these decisions, you might want to rethink modifying your bike.

[@ericg.8716]

Hi David I've got a 390 duke 2016 I am stunting it and I was wondering with wich of those options I can control the idle speed, I would like to have it up to 3.500 rpm for some tricks. Also I want it to run a bit smoother in the low rpm. Nice video, keep it up

[@MotoMirius]

I don't have a gen 1 so your options are different as you have a cable throttle. The most common stunt adjustment of the gen 2 bikes is a manual adjustment of the throttle grip by means of a plate screwed onto the handlebar throttle housing. On the gen 1 I think you can make an adjustment to the throttle body. Smoother at low revs isn't what the bike is designed for. There are various options people use to try and overcome it, but it's easier simply to work around it.

[@ericg.8716]

Thanks for your answer If I try directly at the throttle the ecu tries to idle down to the normal idle rpm. Is there a way to set the idle rpm in a piggyback ecu?

[@MotoMirius]

@@ericg.8716 How would the ECU idle down when you have a cable connection to the throttle body?

[@ericg.8716]

I get a fuel pump error when I higher the idle and the bike runs overall very lean

[@MotoMirius]

@@ericg.8716 Then you will need to run a map based piggyback to correct it.

[@frankieferich157]

Thanks

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks, really much appreciated.

[@RambunktiousLee]

Hello sir. I have a 2016 duke 250 1st generation here in Laos. Hot weather most of the year. I have a racing exhaust that is totally street illegal and very loud that I have fitted to my duke not long ago. Great sound though. I worry it runs lean though. Would the combination of the powertronic ecu box and fuelx fuel controller be a good choice for me?

[@MotoMirius]

I don't know, it depends what you want to do with the bike and how modified your exhaust is. You will almost certainly need to use a piggyback otherwise you are likely to face a very expensive price to rebuild your engine.

[@TECHCRACKin]

Using powertronics with fuelx mod..its really good

[@MotoMirius]

The Fuelx has made PT a much more viable system for the average rider.

[@chizirmelhi5200]

Hey David, I have a 2019 duke 125 with a aftermarket exhaust with still the cat and a airbox with holes , do I need the rapid bike easy or evo in your opinion?

[@MotoMirius]

Easy is probably fine - but the question is whether this is all you will do. If you do more then you have wasted money because you will need to upgrade again

[@danny-1993]

I am having an ecu problem at the minute ktm duke 125 18 bike won’t start now was bogging/lagging now the ecu has popped up on the dash problem only started after I jet washed it I think not 100 percent sure ?

[@MotoMirius]

You have to be very careful when jet washing a bike for this reason. Check the ECU connections but this might be a dealer visit.

[@TeamWeberRacing]

Great video, but I have problems finding some for my 2021 Duke 390 due to euro 5. Wants a smoother ride, Acoprovich sip on.

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks. This is always an issue with a new model of bike. It takes a while for the aftermarket to catch up. Coober were quick into the 2021 market because they are a KTM partner. PowerTronic claim to cover 2021 models - because the Euro 5 was launched and tested there in 2020. RapidBike also offer for 2021. I think boosterplug doesn’t work for 2021 because the new ECU is too smart for it. The RB Easy also appears to be unavailable but it might appear.

[@TeamWeberRacing]

@@MotoMirius thanx for the update, I was looking for a cheaper and easy fix. Have you tryed Powetronics Fuelx Pro?

[@MotoMirius]

@@TeamWeberRacing Fuel Ex is new, not really much feedback on it yet. I don't use PowerTronic but they have a very good reputation so I would expect it would work OK

[@panchochilli11]

Hi David, great videos! Can you update on how the Rapidbike works for you, and what other Ecu updates you’ve done since if any?

[@MotoMirius]

I do need to make some update videos because ECU's have moved on but.... RapidBike is fit and forget so I fitted it and I've forgotten about it regardless of what mods I've made. I haven't got time to be messing about downloading maps, plugging laptops or readers into the bike. If you are racing then sure, every second counts but for road use?....

[@giuseppecrispo703]

Ciao e possibile escudere il limitatore sul duke 125 ? La mia duke e bloccata sui 105 kmh ..... se installo la rapid bike easy posso risolvere ? Grazie

[@MotoMirius]

Salve, RB consentirà un limite di giri più elevato. Potrebbe o meno curare il tuo problema! Skäl David

[@giuseppecrispo703]

@@MotoMirius grazie

[@levimerari9708]

Hello! I'm going to add a cat delete, DNA air box lid, K&N filter and the Fuel X lite, Do this setup will need an piggyback. What are your thoughts about my concern Dave?

[@MotoMirius]

The Lite is a piggyback. According to the Race Dynamics engineers, you will be fine with the Lite.

[@handymadandyddd1900]

hi mirius i own a 2011 duke 125 and have done a cat delete and im changing the air filter to a kn high flow and was thinking about a free flowing lid should i buy the fuelx lite

[@MotoMirius]

If you have made those changes then yes you should be considering a piggyback and an autotune like the Lite would be a good choice to reduce risk of engine damage.

[@DOCTORGAMING8282]

i want one duke 250 cam chain tensioner tik tik noise form upper side of the engin

[@MotoMirius]

You want to know how to change it? Skäl. David

[@hannesdobbelaere]

try thicker oil first...

[@denoslife7136]

Aren't the standard ECUs auto adjusting fuel-air mixture when modifying inflow or exhaust? If yes of curse they still run too lean so a piggyback can be helpful... So a piggyback's only function would be to lie to the ECU right?

[@MotoMirius]

Yes, the stock ECU is self adjusting - that is why it is connected to sensors which tell it what adjustments need to be made. It's logical that the stock ECU is mapped for the stock configuration and that emissions controls will limit the adjustments it can make - and remain within emissions parameters. So yes, the job of the piggyback is not so much to lie to the ECU as to change the signals that are sent out to say the injector.

[@denoslife7136]

@@MotoMirius nice! Thank you very much, was very helpful :-)

[@doowie111]

Hello Mirius, im riding duke 250. Will I gain any hp by doing open box filter and full decat?, Will autotune rapid bike be enough to help me achive that?

[@MotoMirius]

There will normally be some HP increase - do not expect huge changes. Yes, the autotune will be enough to achieve that.

[@JallaMeck]

I have a bs6 2021 duke 390 and im planing to run a slip on IXIL RC for it. Do i need a piggyback for that? Im also planing to decat the bike and run an open airbox lid for more power. After its first 1000km service. Do you recomend me buying a piggyback right away or would it be fine to just wait for the decat+lid? I ran an arrow slip on on my 2016 rc125 and it was all fine. But with these more restricted bikes i want your opinion. And also witch ecu should i run?

[@MotoMirius]

Always buy the piggyback for the configuration you intend to run, so if you intend open airbox lid, decat and slip on then you will need a full piggyback. If you want keep your warranty then your first choice is Coober. Just a slip on is normally OK without piggyback. Once you add a decat or airbox lid then you should be adding a piggyback.

[@JallaMeck]

@@MotoMirius Thank you for the quick response. Keep up the good work on the channel. I really enjoy you content and have learned a lot from your videos. I'll run just a slip-on for a while then

[@cavitecheckpoint]

If i debaffle and stubby my stock exhaust and use open airbox but did not decat my duke 390, do i need piggy back ecu and what kind do i need?

[@MotoMirius]

My rule of thumb is more than one change and I’d recommend a piggyback. Choosing which kind comes from answering the questions I pose in the video.

[@Jacksteelmachines]

Can you recommend me a good piggy back? i have the athena big bore kit 160cc , and it's running the ecu from athena , if it's warm i can't get it to start... when it cools down , a bit better

[@MotoMirius]

I would say you should be going down the custom map route - so PowerTRONIC or Power Commander depending on where you are in the world.

[@chrisowens6683]

I know its been a while since this video, but ... anyone have any experience with the Powertronic Fuel X Autotune? I see many videos on it. I am interested if anyone who did not get sent one for evaluation purposes has any feedback on this item. I have a 2017 Duke 390 which I would like to put an air filter and cat delete on. Perhaps some of the items in this video are still the way to go? Thanks

[@MotoMirius]

I do need to update this video. I also need to do one on the FuelX because it does have the potential to move Powertronic into the more mainstream market.

[@4nine954]

Hey David, I have a 2018 Duke 390 with a slip on exhaust...what ECU should i get?

[@MotoMirius]

Hey. If you watch the video you will have the information you need to decide what ECUs you should be looking at - it will be different for everybody so different people with your setup will choose different piggybacks. Bear in mind also what future mods you intend to make to the bike because you don't want to have to buy another piggyback because you bought a basic one. As explained, because I use my bike as a test bed for mods, I use an autotune box - I don't want to spend an hour making a mod and then another six hours testing and modifying the map, but then I'm not interested in going for maximum power. Skäl David

[@Nxthxn.]

Thanks for the video bud. I've ordered the rapid bike easy and wanted to know what the dials need to be set too on the back? I've got a duke 125 2015 and wanna run it without a baffle but don't wanna mess up my fuel/air ratio.

[@MotoMirius]

Start with the stock settings. If you live somewhere unusual then you may need to change.

[@Nxthxn.]

@@MotoMirius what are the stock settings bud? Am I able to make my bike pop and crackle with it also as I wont have a baffle in. I live in the UK, Norfolk

[@MotoMirius]

@@Nxthxn. I don't have an Easy. The stock settings are the ones that the unit comes set to. Yes, it should pop but will do so more with the cat removed.

[@Nxthxn.]

@@MotoMirius would it be safe to run it without the baffle?

[@Nxthxn.]

@@MotoMirius I've got the leo vince sbk with decat

[@debabratamukherjee8299]

I have duke 390(bs6)model And I put on a high flow (k&n)air filter on engine for more power as possible,and also slip on exhaust..can you plz help me which ECU I should go for!! I need more power💪 Plz reply!!

[@MotoMirius]

I suggest first researching known routes to power before spending any more money. K&N filter is good upgrade for first gen 390, not good for BS6. Some slip ons will reduce power not add. ECU do not add power - they allow you to use the power of the modifications that you make. Which ECU will depend on whether you want to use maps or not. If you want maps, look at PowerTRONIC or Bazaaz. Skäl David

[@debabratamukherjee8299]

@@MotoMirius so what should I do for power..plz explain me briefly:(

[@MotoMirius]

You will need an ECU - so you need to decide if you can use maps. If not you need an autotune ECU. With that I would recommend - in order - cat and presilencer delete, open airbox lid, bigger injector, performance slip on - say Akrapovic not SC Project/ cheap chinese etc

[@cranky1812]

@@debabratamukherjee8299 how much money you have?

[@oleflaw115]

Hello, so im getting a 390 Duke, i will change to a slip on, and want to eliminate how jerky it is in 1-2 gear, will the rapid bike EVO autotuning be a great match?:)

[@MotoMirius]

I can almost guarantee that the reason the bike is jerky in 1-2 gear is because the rev's are too low and not slipping the clutch at very low speeds. When I'm riding my 390, revs are almost never below 4k and it's never jerky, even when it was stock. That said, the RB Evo will make low rev riding more smooth, but if that is your only reason for buying a piggyback and the slip on is the only mod, you probably only need the RB Easy. Skäl David

[@oleflaw115]

@@MotoMirius Thank you, i just rode my friends bike and noticed the jerky in low gears, so im thinking of investing in a rapid easy after my first 1000 km service :) thanks for good content _:D SKÅL

[@pedrocson]

I'm wondering to get a Fueltech FT300, do you know if it is compatible with the bike?

[@MotoMirius]

Check the manufacturer website or contact them. If they do not confirm then I wouldn’t recommend

[@danushkagayan9225]

My 2019 ktm125 eu tft is damaged.can I use to 2018 ktm 390 tft for my baik?it's possible?

[@MotoMirius]

No. Fuelling map on the 390 ECU will be setup for 390 levels of fuel. You will also likely to get lot of error codes that will prevent the bike running.

[@dinislam1886]

can I get away with a RapidBike Easy for an aftermarket slip-on without baffle?

[@MotoMirius]

Normally yes. The Akrapovic slip on can be fitted without any changes to set up. Skäl. David

[@Armstrongy99]

I have an MT 125 2016 would they fit the same as I cannot find one for my personal bike

[@MotoMirius]

I think PowerTronic make an ECU adapter for your bike

[@danielrosenberg9222]

HI David can you send me a link for the rapid bike easy to fit my duke 125 2023 plate please having trouble finding the right one

[@MotoMirius]

www.dimsport.it/en/applications-list/rapidbike/bike/ktm/125-duke-rc/21-23-22/details/

[@russelllaw1942]

Really enjoy your videos, is there a piggy back ecu for a 2021 125 duke

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks. Yes, but partly depends if you have a BS6 2021 or if you have one of the older style 2021 with the exhaust running down the side of the engine

[@russelllaw1942]

@@MotoMirius Hi, thank for getting bk to me, really appreciate it, mine is a BS6 2021.

[@russelllaw1942]

@@MotoMirius hi thanks for getting back to me, it’s BS6

[@MotoMirius]

@@russelllaw1942 BS6 rules out some of the basic piggybacks like Boosterplug and some manufacturers have not yet produced a version for the BS6 125. You might want to have a look at the Fuel X Lite. I am attempting to film some videos on it at the moment but it will be a week or so before they are out.

[@russelllaw1942]

@@MotoMirius thanks will keep a lookout for your video on this. Thanks Russell

[@papshopmotovlog2780]

moto mirius do yo have email or messenger i have a question about my duke390 2019 model. i dont know this socket with single wire on my seat compartment

[@MotoMirius]

What colour single wire?

[@papshopmotovlog2780]

i will take a picture

[@papshopmotovlog2780]

single wire violet

[@saddop69]

I’m looking to get a “set and forget” type ECU for my 2020 duke 390. I have a debaffled replica SC project slip on and will eventually get an airbox lid and possibly some other add ons along the way. What is a good 2022 equivalent ECU? Thanks!

[@MotoMirius]

Fully autotune - Rapidbike Evo, fixed maps to give a starting point then autotune Powertronic FuelX. I'm waiting for a FuelX and will update this video

[@saddop69]

I ended up ordering a fuelx pro, the price point and simplicity seemed right 🤩

[@MotoMirius]

@@saddop69 I have one on the way to review so let me know how you get on.

[@xristosmanolagkas7005]

Hello sir! I bought a powercomander for duke 390 and i have akrapovic exhaust removed pipe - air filter and removed catalyst.. And it sounds that is working very wrong.. I think it needs a specific map.. Can u help me with that plz?

[@MotoMirius]

I would suggest that you get the autotune module for the Power Commander. If you don't understand maps very well, and I would suggest from your question that you don't, then either take the bike to a very good dyno and have a custom map built or get the autotune module. If you get the map wrong or you get a map from some random guy on the internet - even if they claim to be an expert, then it can result in a very expensive engine rebuild. Good luck with getting that resolved!

[@xristosmanolagkas7005]

@@MotoMirius autotune module is expensive gave already too much for power comander i will not give more.. And here where i live we dont have dyno for custom map:p so i think it was waste of money that i bought power comander:/

[@MotoMirius]

@@xristosmanolagkas7005 You need to know what you are buying - hence this video. I don't recommend any mapped unit unless you have a very good level of knowledge. But unless you put your bike back to stock you need to do something. At the least add a FuelX Lite (not Pro). You can then remove and sell the PowerCommander, and the modded bike will be safe to ride (but give the FuelX chance to adapt before hammering it).

[@donovanschoor1473]

any advice for the ktm rc 390 2016? it has 3/4 exhaust replace, no cat. K&N air filter

[@MotoMirius]

RC is always a bit different to the Duke in this but I think it still has the unlocked ECU so you can either go piggyback with something like PowerTRONIC, Power Commander or it should be possible to reflash the ECU - really depends on where you stand with building maps.

[@donovanschoor1473]

@@MotoMirius thanks!

[@brianjackson2131]

my 68 reg 390 duke cuts out some times when i am changing down and runs rough at low revs it's done it from new, KTM says blip the throttle more when i change down "yeah right" will a booster plug cure this , ? i do not intend to mod the bike in any way, thanks for your good work !

[@MotoMirius]

Thanks. I'm actually partly with KTM on this one. My experience is that it's very easy to stall the bike under heavy braking and changing down, if I fail to properly pull in the clutch. Not sure if it's just exceeding the limitations of the slipper clutch in that situation and I've heard rumours of an ignition cut in the setup for braking which would probably make it worse. I normally have the issue having ridden another bike for a while then go back to the KTM, realise and then the problem goes away. I've not tried blipping the throttle - might or might not work. Running rough at low revs is a common complaint, especially in Europe, and partly the result of emissions tuning. A boosterplug is one of the solutions which cures this. Most of the other solutions revolve around not riding in that range for example by changing the gearing. My solution is more fundamental - it's a small single which KTM designed to be fast revving so it has little in the way of counterweights so just like a sports car with a lightened flywheel is not pleasant at low revs in traffic - I'm never below 4k revs and as a result I never have this issue (even with a fuel controller it isn't really happy at low revs in my experience). Good luck with sorting it! Skäl David

[@stepneye1165]

I’ve found the low rev stalling rarely happens to me after I switched to high octane 97 or above fuel, there is much less jerking at low speed. Also adjusted clutch lever so I don’t need to pull much to disengage.

[@The_gordo_channel]

So if I wanted to just do a mid-pipe/chamber delete/ de cat /pre silencer delete(between the cat and the stock silencer) but wanted to leave the stock cat and stock silencer, would the rapid bike easy be sufficient in providing the proper amount of fueling? I just want a little bit of grunt and to get rid of that extra weight and ugly eye sore. So again stock airbox stock cat stock silencer just deleteing the chamber. Thanks

[@MotoMirius]

The only issue you have is that the presilencer removal won't really give you much extra grunt, if any - it's a free flow unit. The restrictions are all in the cat and secondary silencer. The only power gain will be from weight removal, so you probably won't need a piggyback.

[@The_gordo_channel]

@@MotoMirius awesome thanks for the quick response !

[@The_gordo_channel]

@@MotoMirius curious tho as to why most people call the mid pipe or pre silencer replacement a "decat". If I'm not mistaken the actual catalytic converter is the first cylindrical piece down the line from the header correct? Then the pre silencer or mid pipe is the ugly black box and then the silencer or muffler is the final piece.

[@MotoMirius]

@@The_gordo_channel Because the pipe to replace both cat and presilencer is easier to get hold of than just the pipe to replace either - and if you are eliminating the cat then most choose to also remove the presilencer which allows easier upgrading of the rear shock - so the term decat is something of misnomer. I'd about to put the presilencer back in with just the cat removed - only I can't find where I put the presilencer lol.

[@karanbundhela3336]

im using powertronic Piggyback ecu is certainly good too which works in close loop and open loop im using for ktm rc 200 did 151 kmph and running smooth and less heat produce but im using custom map and after using powertronic i can stock bike sucks as compared to powertronic

[@MotoMirius]

Sounds a great setup. Lots of potential with custom maps 👍. Skäl. David

[@karanbundhela3336]

@@MotoMirius as powertronic in part throttle it works in close loop and full throttle it goes into open loop

[@vinceking7878]

Do these bikes have oxygen sensors in the exhaust? If not then how does the auto tune work?

[@MotoMirius]

All modern bikes have O2 or similar sensors in order to comply with emissions regulations and also to allow the stock ECU to adjust fuelling levels.

[@jordanbrookes-moore5579]

How much fuel range do you get per gallon with all the upgrades you've done to your bike?

[@MotoMirius]

I have no idea, it's not something I worry about.

[@redtiger007]

Bro one doubt DUKE 200 install ecu remapping after top speed how much plz tell me

[@MotoMirius]

If you are asking what is the top speed of a Duke 200 after ecu remapping, then it depends on what you have done to the bike - what mods, what mapping. I don't have a 200 and I don't care about top speed - it isn't important to me. Skäl David

[@Tony-of3ub]

My plan is to straight pipe my duke 125, do you think the booster plug is enough for preventing my piston going boom?

[@MotoMirius]

If you are replacing cat, presilencer and removing baffle/ tail silencer then I would risk just a BP. You might get away with a RapidBike Easy. I’m not a fan of straight pipes on small bikes they are loud but lack tone and depth. They just make it more obvious how small the engine is. Better with the presilencer in and I’m told better power. If you go full straight pipe I’d recommend a better piggyback. Skäl. David

[@Tony-of3ub]

@@MotoMirius Thanks for reply :) i think ill go with the Booster Plug as my friends also recommended it to me. I know alot people who drives straight pipe without any ecu and they havent had any problems. Ive got a brand new bike tho, so ill feel a bit more safe with the BP. And it seems the easiest. Skäl ;)

[@lewisbruton1479]

You can remap the gen 2 dukes and the rc I have had mine done and I know people who also have had them re mapped

[@MotoMirius]

You can now, but you couldn't when this video was made. But most involve sending the ECU away and how are you going to have an accurate map done when the tuner doesn't have your bike to put on a dyno? Generic maps, yes.

[@17ShanDs]

Hi. Need your help. Off topic actually. The duke 390 2018, has the catalyst/chamber too close to the rear shock. Hence going for an hour ride makes the shock really hot . Can u suggest what can be done to fix this.

[@MotoMirius]

Hi. It's the same for all the gen 2. You can delete the presilencer but it will hurt mid range in most cases. I've not seen any evidence that the heat is sufficient to alter the temper of the spring.

[@17ShanDs]

@@MotoMirius I have upgraded to YSS fully adjustable monoshock. Just worried coz after paying a lot to get it, don't want it to get screwed up eventually for the heat. Thanks mate. Let me know if u have any other alternative. 👍 🍻

[@MotoMirius]

@@17ShanDs The alternative is to delete the presilencer.

[@migueladriaoduarte]

Hi David. Thank you for your explanations. I have a vitpilen 401 2018 and I was thinking about removing the cat and the pre silencer and buy the booster plug while keeping the stock muffler and the stock air filter. Based on what I´ve read and heard, the booster plug "normalizes" the fuel injection, giving it a bit more fuel at low revs (less jerky) and reducing it a bit at hi revs. I have also read somewhere that the ecu on my bike and duke 390 2018 auto adjust and learn and I don´t know if its true or not. I am not a "racing" driver and my driving is normal (mostly cruising pace betwen 6000/7000rpm). I would like to ask for your opinion about my intentions. Thank you very much. Best wishes.

[@MotoMirius]

Hi Miguel. I'm unclear exactly what you are asking. What you propose will work. Personally I wouldn't choose the Boosterplug for this as it just alters the air temp reading without any other consideration of what the changes you have made to the bike might do in certain situations. I would recommend a proper piggyback and if you have no intention of changing anything else, suggest the RapidBike Easy which is of a similar level to the BP in terms of price but has more interaction with the bike. Skäl David

[@migueladriaoduarte]

@@MotoMiriusHi David. I supose you say that because the rapidbike reads information from the o2 sensor e that could represent a more acurate adjustment?

[@migueladriaoduarte]

Thank you for your advice. Best wishes from Portugal..

[@MotoMirius]

@@migueladriaoduarte Yes. BP adds a fixed amount of fuel based on air temperature not based on how much fuel the bike needs at that point so there is no accuracy to it. It's fine with a stock bike because the KTM ECU will mak O2 adjustments and BP claim it's fine with minor mods. Having seen that people with the RB Easy often have to tweak the settings in the initial setup to suit their bike/location/ riding style, I'm cautious about fixed maps that are sold all around the world for every situation.

[@migueladriaoduarte]

@@MotoMirius Hi again David. Just giving you the follow up. The pipe arrived today. The job is done. The noise is a bit "diferent"... Its a bit loud, even with the stock mufler. I hope I get used to it. The driving changed from night to day. At low and mid revs it´s another bike. The jerkyness disapeared and it has much more torque. The gear shifting is way more fun from low to mid revs. I can also now cruise in 6th below 5000 rpm with no problem at all and when I pull the throttle it gains speed smoothly and very easily. I only went to about 7000 rpms but it seems to have lost a little bit of torque at high revs witch is ok to me. The down shifting improved allot to.The engine is quicker to react. It definitely breaths better. I have also noticed the gasoline smell wich I beleive is normal. Main question: After the description I gave you, what should I do, considering that the riding already improved allot. Considering that I am keeping the stock air filter and that I am not giving more air into the combustion, I am afraid to spend 150€ in booster plug or rapidbike for nothing. On the other hand I definitely don´t want to blow the engine. I know that the decision is mine but I would like to get more opinions and diferent perspectives. Thank you once again. Cheers.

[@rays9033]

It’s been a while since this vid was made, what’s the current suggested ECU controller for a stock 2023 Duke 390? Or what’s suggested if I modify the air-box or change the exhaust system? Currently what controllers will NOT void a 2023 Duke 390 factory or an Extended warranty? For 2023 Duke 390, do I really need an Extended warranty (I’m working a purchase deal with a local KTM dealer now)?

[@MotoMirius]

The only controller that will not void your warranty is the Coober - because Coober is a KTM partner and takes over the KTM warranty. Warranty aside I would recommend the FuelX Lite (NOT Pro) for a basic controller and the RapidBike Evo for more extensive mods. Do you need an extended warranty - there is no answer to this, you need to weigh the cost of the warranty against the risk. Things do break, but a proper service regime will eliminate most issues.

[@rays9033]

@@MotoMirius thanks for the quick reply and the super-informative videos on the KTM 390 and ECU’s! True, an extended warranty is not always needed. I thought the extended warranty may help sell the bike if I do not keep it long. I’m an old guy (64), but still in great physical shape that’s interested in riding again (after 35-years) and before it’s too late (hopefully not already there). In my teens rode a Honda 500 4-cylinder, then in my 20’s for 5-years on a Honda 750 4-cylinder. I’m looking at the Duke 390 due to it’s light weight for short urban street rides. I’ve heard they can stumble a bit at low rev’s, so I’m willing to get a something like air cleaner lid with ECU upgrade.

[@MotoMirius]

@@rays9033 They stumble at low revs because its a small capacity single and it's a KTM - KTM designed it with minimal counterweight to the single piston so that it accelerates quickly and provides maximum engine braking - because KTM don't make commuter bikes. The simple solution is use the bike as KTM intended and not ride at low revs. To be fair, low rev running is made worse by the fuelling because it has to meet urban emissions targets which are where they are the tightest, so a fuelling device will help a little, especially if you start to modify. 64 is not old! Ha!

[@rays9033]

@@MotoMirius Yes, I recall your videos mention the single-cylinder design has this low-RPM characteristic. I live 4-miles outside of a city, and the closest stoplight is 4-miles away in one direction and 5-miles in all other directions. I wanted a bike that I could take out for short rides in my general urban area. I have no desire for highway riding, but may need to ride one or two miles on one to find the next less-traveled road. I became interested in the KTM Duke 390 from the glowing KZbin reviews of being the best light-weight bike for new riders, so it got my attention. I had a Honda 500-4cyl in my teens and a Honda 750-4cyl in my 20's (I've only ridden for 6-years), and I ran in the mid-upper RPM range of those bikes. Now me wanting to ride again at age 64, I wanted a light-weight bike for short urban rides and will go larger if I feel comfortable. Before discovering the Duke 390, I had been looking for a Honda cb300r or Yamaha MT03, but both are really small, the MT03 being the most cramped. Since COVID started, there are no Honda cb300r, Honda cb650r or Yamaha MT07 in my State of North Carolina, and none expected for at least 6-months. A local dealer just received two Yamaha MT03, but I think they are physically too small. The Duke 390 seemed to be the solution, and the local dealers here just received six 390's. Another a big KZbin (MotoJitsu) suggested I get a Yamaha MT07, but they are nonexistent and weigh 404-lbs. The 390 weighs 320-lbs. For some reason, I've now got the fear of dropping a bike, so I wanted to go light-weight, for now. I'm 5'11, 175-lb, 34" pants inseam, and great physical shape (similar to you). Two-years ago, I developed skin-cancer that cannot be stopped, and have had 3 surgeries a year since then to manage it. I go back in for another surgery in two weeks, and have no idea when surgery will not help. At age 64, money is not my problem, the lack of time to enjoy that money is. What bike(s) should I get, or should I just forget about buying a bike???

[@MotoMirius]

@@rays9033 MT07 is great choice - it's very similar to the 390 but with a bit more power. That said I used to see a guy on my commute with one, and it wasn't that much faster. I'd recommend the 390 Duke or the MT07 if you can get one. Because of emissions laws where I live I'm going to have to sell a couple of bikes and I'm considering buying a 390 adventure - maybe also upgrading the Duke 390 to the 690 SMCR, keeping bikes that are small and light.