Which Sealer Would You Choose For This Transmission?

*Video Sponsored by LOCTITE® with great information.*
In this video I introduce you to 3 different types of sealants from LOCTITE, LOCTITE 5699, LOCTITE 598, and LOCTITE 518. I also talk about the differences between an RTV and an anaerobic sealant.
Which one would you choose to seal this transmission?
More info
LOCTITE 5699: www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/e... campaign& video
LOCTITE 598: www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/e... campaign& video
LOCTITE 518: www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/e... campaign& video
“Do It Right” LOCTITE Users Guide: www.useloctite.com/downloads/1... campaign& video
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[@dwaynecollins4974]

Eric I've been using those products for decades and in 2 minutes you taught me two things that I didn't know about them before! You're the man Eric!

[@timothygoodsell1446]

💯. Me too

[@bobt897]

Thanks Eric!! 50 years of working on vehicles (not professionally) and now I know what RTV actually stands for!! Also now know the definition of anaerobic sealer.

[@stevejette2329]

YES ! I am 75 and never knew either.

[@dr.mohammed1502]

I use hondabond on everything.. my dad was working on a in ground pool pump and it kept leaking and leaking and he said ive used every type of silicone under the sun and it keeps blowing out and leaking.. I said I got something that will seal it 100% I went home and got the hondabond and helped him seal the pool pump back up and it hasn't leaked since then and its been months now, I love hondabond. Its kinda pricey but its totally worth it!

[@BudTheDrummer]

In the late '70's I used Loctite Anerobic thread sealer in an assembly shop. At that time, RTV Sealants were evolving. There was orange, red, black, gray and copper. Each one had particular properties and were designed for certain applications. Ultimately I think the Anerobic sealer has it's particular uses and RTV Gray is suitable for everything else. I also use RTV Gray as a glue.

[@B1GDaddyFatStax]

I'd also have to agree with the use of 518. Usually instances like those, where a zero-tolerance fit is required, this is the best sealant. It doesn't add hardly any extra clearance within the equipment like RTV or gaskets would. And that's why gaskets aren't used in those locations.

[@3819144]

I have done enough transmission overhaul in the Nissan dealership and the factory send a tube of Loctite 518 in their gasket kit repair kit, so I will say that is the right one to use.

[@joe6083]

What kit are you referring to?

[@3819144]

@@joe6083 you can get an overhaul kit from the Nissan dealership back in the days for the 4AFE transmission

[@joe6083]

@@3819144 interesting. I think they use some sort of pink sealant on cvts now?

[@caseycreager]

You’re such an inspiration Eric! Thank you for everything you do!

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you!

[@calholli]

@@ericthecarguy Don't forget to keep doing it though.. I'll be waiting for the come back party.

[@andrewnewman1248]

Thanks Eric great info. Another property of 518 is the excess sealer on the inside is oil soluble so you don’t have the problem of a piece of excess sealer coming off and clogging an oil passage. Loctite have a great range very specific purpose products. Regards from Australia 🇦🇺

[@SI0AX]

Ok, that detail makes it a million times better product. I'm rebuilding an engine that spun a rod bearing due to silicone clogging the oil pickup tube. I remember rushing to get the transmission closed due to the sealing being fast curing and made the job very stressful. I actually failed to close the snap ring on time and had to scrape of all the RTV and do the job again!

[@mrsemifixit]

So why not use 518 for everything? Just curious benefits of each if one would be more of an all purpose

[@andrewnewman1248]

@@mrsemifixit 518 can only fill a gap of maximum .010 “ , the silicone sealers have a greater gap filling ability and elasticity ,ie the ends of a v8 intake manifold which can be up to 3/16 “. The silicone sealers are very good for oil pan gaskets where there are combined cork and rubber intersections , The quality automotive silicone sealers are quite different to plumbing type sealers. So don’t be tempted to use plumbing type products on oil applications. Hope this helps

[@BigT962]

Eric, you’ve helped me broaden my knowledge of automotive mechanics. Thanks for the excellent content!

[@aswclassicsdorset1743]

When i did my apprenticeship in 1970 to 75, we used hermitite red for almost everything, except water, and used vasaline on paper gaskets for waterpumps, thermostat housings ect but thankfully in later years we had a better choice, good video as always

[@carterhart5435]

If you have ever had to take something apart again you will appreciate the 518! Cleanup is so much easier than dealing with silicone that got into threaded holes, the 518 can be chipped away easily leaving a clean surface. Also, the 518 is safe for use on things like a white block Volvo cam cover. Any excess that squeezes out into the oil passages remains uncured and washes into the oil. Silicone dries and plugs the oil passages for the lifters. Silicone has it's uses, but flat, machined surfaces are ideal for the 518. For something like a dirt bike engine or other 2 stroke I would use ThreeBond, Yama/Honda/Kawasaki Bond. If it came with a paper gasket I would replace the gasket to maintain the proper clearances.

[@ErAcEr100]

The information contained in your videos and breakdowns are a great source for reference. I needed the info and remembered you had this video, took me a minute to get the right search but I feel most fortunate to see your new videos since the shop farewell. Thank you for everything past, and anything forward.

[@CandCRacin]

I'm rebuilding the trans in my 500 Abarth this weekend and was researching case sealants all afternoon. The 518 was on my list and seeing this now I do believe I'm going to order some, thanks Eric!

[@ericthecarguy]

The sponsor will be very happy with that. You will too I believe.

[@chriscoatess3600]

I personally would have used hondabond on the machined surfaces.

[@ryfish5]

That was what I was thinking too but sponsors....

[@McmM-cv9sb]

That was very helpful I didn't know Loctite sealer made that many types of ceiling thanks for the info👍

[@johnpetersen8116]

Thanks Eric. Hope all is going well with the move!

[@vijayantgovender2045]

Thank you Eric always love watching your tips videos I am watching from South Africa

[@rustyrobinson8027]

Best spokesperson ever

[@dekings96]

This was great we were trying to find the difference between 5699 vs 598 to seal an oil pan.

[@davidg5704]

Rtv= irregular surfaces 518=machined surfaces (anaerobic) 598= oil pan gasket 💫🤙

[@joemamma9642]

Thank you for your insight. Hope to see you back soon!

[@computiNATEor]

Good stuff! When assembling something like a split casing engine (Subaru boxer, Porsche, VW), an anaerobic sealant seems like the ideal choice. Plenty of time to line stuff up, then push it together and do up the bolts.

[@kimber3865]

Anaerobic is the way to go!

[@johnfinch8173]

Hi Eric, Used Loctite 510 for VW air-cooled engine split casings and Fiat and Alfa Romeo gearbox casings and never a leak to be seen. Great product for those type of jobs! Loctite 510 is better for high temperature use than general use Loctite 518.

[@ryulee458]

Thank you for the information Eric good to know

[@Blackford86]

Thanks for the info👍

[@aaronjondro5602]

I always used the 518 when doing differentials on semi trucks.

[@zaccharles]

I'd use the black... though the forbidden jelly looks nice too

[@ecmjr]

Nice, I learned something new tonight :)

[@tomcat4341]

Thanks for on point guide about sealers !

[@dananeidhardt6557]

Great video- I've used these sealers forever but didn't fully understand how they work.

[@glenncrockett4451]

The 518 was used on a lot of 2 cycle engines with machined surfaces such as Lawnboy back in the day.

[@bossracing3387]

i started using RTV in the caulk tubes , so much nicer to deal with

[@cgrscott]

Very helpful. I look foreword to more videos, that you shot in the past, that are waiting to be edited and dropped on your Channel.

[@NTromb]

I actually used anaerobic sealant on my front differential when I had to change the axle seal on the passenger side of my GMC Yukon stuff works excellent

[@Glenn7719]

For metal on metal mating surfaces, i use elring dirko grey. Brilliant stuff, never had any issues with it.

[@michaelblacktree]

I've used the black RTV and anaerobic sealer for trans cases. They both work.

[@HotRod-wv4vm]

Thanks Eric very useful information.

[@flynnperry-vaughan5908]

Locktite is the og

[@codo7]

Here is a trick...say you are affixing a valve cover...clean the valve cover gasket surface with a strong solvent; something that makes it dry. On the cylinder head, free of debris, a clean surface; apply a film of motor oil on the surface and down somewhat on both sides, now put the rtv on your valve cover and bolt it in place with about half the torque...let it dry overnight and finish the torque when it has set up. The rtv will stick to the cover but separate from the cylinder head. It will be a permanent gasket. Don't put so much rtv on that it drips down onto any dry and be somewhat liberal with the oil.

[@gul.iam.3195]

Indeed it was great info!

[@garyweber195]

Great to know. Thanks

[@kornkrazy]

Perfect timing!

[@dontderockmerizz3211]

Many uses. I use it to hold the guitar strap buttons from pulling out of the guitar.

[@timbell4540]

I used threebond 1215 sealant its toothpast style very good for sealing manual gearbox machine surfaces seal it up then torque up to your manufacture recompmended (also good 4 gearbox plug threads) allow 24hr cure time before adding gearbox oil then check 4 leaks hopefully u done it right no more leaks happy days good video tho "CHEERS MATE!" from down under

[@DaFoxQc]

We work a lot with the grey 5699 on snowmobile oil reservoir and chaincases because thats the ones required by Arctic Cat, but otherwise for smaller jobs we also use a lot of the Right Stuff from Permatex.

[@LesMorrisracing]

Thanks ! Buddy

[@martyhill6609]

Cool. I learned a lot..

[@aussiebloke609]

I remember your old gearbox video - and Paul C is a fan of the anaerobic sealant for his gearboxes.

[@penijaminisilimaibau8690]

👌 thanks Eric

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

The RED would've been my choice for this, too. Each of those bolt holes is a *flange*. Those case halves fit precisely, anything thick like a gasket or an RTV gasket maker would separate those case halves enough to possibly change the runout tolerances of a bushing or shaft, misaligning the face-to-root contact of the gears, or even prematurely wearing components because of misalignment.

[@kelsycunningham8452]

I'm a little older than you Eric so I only stay dirty when it's warm outside. I'm a fair weather rider now too 🤣

[@psomlo]

I used the grey RTV on a Civic transaxle, no issues.

[@g-mang-man7924]

Easy. For most repairs, HondaBond grey, or Toyota black FIPG. All manual or automatic transmissions, only Toyota orange FIPG.

[@RichardHeadGaming]

Ultra grey sensor safe rtv, aftermarket or from Ford, GM, etc is best I found over my 25+ years of trans work. Costs more but never fails and it is what all manufacturers use themselves.

[@timbell4540]

GOOD VIDEO There is another brand of sealant called threebond 1215 250gm toothpast style grey liquid sag type style sealant for gearbox transmission transmission trans axle also another type permatex 81182 gear oil rvt gasket maker also for gearbox transmission trans axle both for close fitting machine surfaces ive heard very good reviews for both sealants I hope this helps cheers Eric

[@gerrytseng]

Should I be worried about uncured 518 floating around in a closed system if the inside part of the machined surface has fluid that scoops up the sealant?

[@blake8297]

I was wondering the same thing... I imagine the same amount that pushed out on the outside also pushed out on the inside.

[@gravity5294]

^ This ^ Eric! What happens!?

[@ericthecarguy]

2 things, you have to be mindful not to 'over apply', or use too much. Also, in my experience, the sealer is oil resistant and till not combine with the oil or break away. I hope that helps.

[@richardcarlson3627]

Just an assembly hint.... with both sealant products, whether anaerobic or RTV, always clean the mating surfaces with brake cleaner and/or acetone and let dry before applying. Also, with anaerobics, i.e., 518, you can purchase a primer from Loctite to enhance the cure. (Usually has to be purchased through an industrial supplier.) The cure mechanism for the 518 is absence of air and metal ions from the mating parts which the primer augments. If you're wondering why the 518 doesn't cure inside its tube, Loctite developed its packaging many years ago to allow air to permeate through but not product. Same goes for its threadlocking bottles. Also, there may be some temperature restrictions of the anaerobic [518] over the RTVs, so keep that in mind when making the choice for your particular application.

[@robbflynn4325]

I love the black sealant, I buy it at Walmart-it's called the Right Stuff, pretty expensive at $9 but worth it.

[@danh2134]

Black RTV is my go to

[@thejavelin7832]

ETGC1: "Which sealer would you use for this transmission?" Me: whatever the manufacturer requires.....

[@redmondjp]

Here's a pro tip for applying the 518: using my fingertip while wearing nitrile gloves, I apply some of the sealer to my fingertip and then transfer it to the sealing surface by repeatedly touching along the surface until I need to reapply to my finger - you don't need much of the sealer at all - only a layer a few thousandths' thick. This works very well for transmission and transaxle cases and as mentioned in another comment, white block Volvo engines, Northstar engine crankcase halves, and so on. Of course proper surface prep is key as always.

[@cnsunnylightautolighting]

nice, good video. i like this video.

[@Sevalecan]

No notification but dang I'm early. Hope the move out's still going well, can't wait to have you back though I'm sure a vacation will be nice.

[@Blackford86]

Good to know

[@PhillyDee215]

I'VE USED THEM ALL😎WHATEVER I HAVE ON HAND

[@SignalyardsGarage]

Wow Eric thanks for explaining this! Now I can go purchase the sealer that I actually NEED instead of guessing or just buying the most expensive! Staying dirty 😁

[@ericthecarguy]

Glad to help!

[@dadtype2339]

Hey EC still praying for you and the move, don't forget the Flag, Elvis Clock and Keg, on the check list of remember to pack and then enjoy the break Brother you deserve it!!! Meanwhile, I'm happy to see footage from the lost box of what didn't get posted! Also I do hope you come back in May on the 1st, it my birthday and I waited for that beast to move back around to a Monday so I could get a digital confection cake LOL!!! Be Safe And Be Well to you and the Family.

[@ericthecarguy]

Thank you! Keeping the flag and Elvis clock. The keg went to one of the people that helped me move. All is well in the world.

[@dadtype2339]

@@ericthecarguy damn I liked asking about the keg,.... I had this huge important thing to tell you, but I'll just email it to you, or PO Box it, as it was getting too long here, and I'll keep it short-ish...One day I'll bring a Keg full and ready to sign! Be Safe and Be Well Brother!

[@r3g3d17]

ALL. Mix them up and use the concoction.

[@girthy10incher23]

I pick #4 Honda Ultra Flange

[@alastairmartin3049]

3bond grey

[@markmichlewicz5141]

Personally im gonna use whatever i can get for free from work.but i have used loctite before and its good stuff.

[@10lauset]

Cheers to you

[@jdhern9078]

Good video

[@johnfinch8173]

Loctite 518 vs 510 Loctite 518 : Medium-strength, general purpose gasketing product - excellent contamination tolerance. Ideal for use on casted iron, steel and aluminum flanges. LOCTITE® 510 is a high temperature resistant anaerobic sealant which cures when confined in the absence of air between close-fitting metal surfaces.

[@drewruf3178]

Hondabond everything!

[@Makingshavingz]

Super helpful thanks! There are weirdos like me out there among your viewers that are interested in knowing anything "further" or "less well known" about the product's possible applications. Loctite 518 is thixotropic which makes it even more fantastic for a variety of machined surfaces. Touching on thixotropic behavior: what, why, how, and where products like Loctite 518--as a result of the physics/applied materials properties of thixotropy (obviously a bland overview is all I'm referring to)--would be amazing. Loctite could get even more business because nut-jobs like me could use that information and say 'hey, 518 would be great here because of ... ' and I'd buy that over another product. Frankly, it's also just cool to know those type of things. Thanks again! Really an excellent video all together!

[@shahriarrashid8478]

Hi, Eric. I like your videos very much. I have a Carina TI (AT212, model 2000) with 5A-FE engine. Back in that time, it was recommended to use Toyota D-2 / Dexron-2 for its transmission. Can I use Toyota ATF Type-4 instead of D-2?

[@musiq04]

Looking for advice about a transmission in a 1995 nissian pathfinfer xev6. The vehicle will not go into reverse all of the other gears work fine. I bought a used transmission and had it put in it. Still have the same problem. The linkage looked good, all new fluid, any ideas of what else could be wrong with it ?

[@Jahalang82]

I had a customer that was all sorts of mad the other day because we didn’t sell Loctite brand products and his mechanic told him to go find some thread locker in that brand and that brand only. I tried to explain to him that Permatex has been around for a very long time and has about three different levels of thread locking for depending on what they are trying to achieve. In the end he left slamming our front door and said he was never coming back all because we didn’t have Loctite brand products.

[@stevenn1282]

I was wondering who made a good anaerobic sealer now I know where I can get some

[@silasmarner7586]

Yeah, a friend of mine and I had to explain to another that most loctites cure with a LACK of oxygen.. that was very very difficult for friend #3 to wrap his head around......

[@kimber3865]

Ptfe thread sealant is great for plugs and fuel fittings

[@aleksandrsmirnov5395]

Спасибо! Мне понравился ролик

[@Gold63Beast]

Anytime I use a sealer, I always go for overkill or the most heavy duty high temp I can, just to make sure it last and doesn’t fail. I use that black rtv mostly. And then second is high temp red.

[@aussiebloke609]

I've learned to go with the anaerobic stuff in some situations. Unlike the black or grey, any excess that squeezes out...say from around the oil pan and into the sump...it won't set, so it just washes away in the oil rather than forming those little silicone worms that eventually block the oil pickup screen. But if my parts aren't a great fit, with one or both being a little beat up or warped from being hammered and pried on, I don't think the red stuff will bridge the gap effectively. It's best used when joining two _really_ flat or machined surfaces.

[@Gold63Beast]

@@aussiebloke609 yup 100% agree

[@VacFink]

I know which Paul G would say. That T5 rebuild series is one of the best out there.

[@ericthecarguy]

Working with Paul was awesome. He's so good at what he does.

[@mistabone3899]

I can teach you the secret to getting the case on, it iws in the FSM :) Put the case in 3rd gear before dropping the out half on, also need to have the outer manishaft bearing (angular thrust loaded) out of the case to start with.

[@AraCarrano]

Which one did you stick a homemade Hondabond label on?

[@chrish6373]

Permatex Motoseal 29132 - Solvent based - not silicone based. Flexible bond within 20 minutes.

[@claytonshields1820]

I use black rtv for everything

[@bighands675]

And just like that the bendpak is back lol

[@onbokyi3136]

I am replacing the oil pan gasket on 97 Ford Taurus. Can I use the black Loctite and the gasket together ?

[@ericthecarguy]

I don't recommend using a sealer when there is a gasket.

[@brandonlink6568]

The first time I used gasket maker I didn't read the instructions properly, can't torque the bolts down right away like with normal RTV

[@anactualmechanic2058]

RTV. I use that sh1t on everything. xD

[@VeritasEtAequitas]

Which modern sealer would you choose (any brand) for an antique motorcycle crankcase that splits into left and right halves that are hard to separate?

[@ericthecarguy]

The black RTV. I would say the aerobic, but the older casting may have too many imperfections for it to work well.

[@zulfiqar.ali.313]

I have a cb400 bike, the first generation, 1998 model. A little green water (radiator water) comes out from the small hole on the right side of the machine. The spark plug water comes out, what is the reason and how to solve this problem

[@Mikeaaron777]

How well have they worked in the past? The red one, does it clean off well if you must take it apart for a follow up repair? We know nothing says guaranteed for life unless it sits in storage for years.

[@ericthecarguy]

It's way easier to clean up if you have to disassemble it. At least in my opinion.

[@J.C...]

Black. Each has its own merits. One may be more sturdy than the other, as well. That's what I'd be looking at.

[@jakubmusil1109]

Big advantage of anaerobic sealants such as the 518 is that it wont easily cure in places you don't want it to. One good example is Rover K series where the head is essentially split in the middle of cams and the whole upper deck is sealed to the lower one. WIth tons of small oil passages ... when RTV is used more often than not too much of it is used and it gets squeezed into the oil passages blocking them... and then you starve the cam bearings or tappets of oil. Anaerobic sealant will get flushed out by the oil. Anyway that leads me to the main point... Eric use less of it. As you said, it's precision machined surfaces. They Align very well and you really only need a thin even coat and not a worm like when using RTV to fill up gaps. If there are uneven spots or gaps, the 518 aint the good product to use anyway as it is really ideal for those tightly fitting flanges... and on those... just use less ... saves you that oversqueezed bit that is kind of unnecessary especially on the inside.

[@Firecracker89]

I just replaced the transmission in my papa Chevy Cruze I'm so proud of myself only to find out at the very last second I cleaned everything up everything was looking beautifully if I say so myself the engine lined up with the transmission perfectly wires connectors hoses everything was back to how it should be even better only to notice a crack in the bottom of the transmission how did it get there I have no idea I hope it wasn't for me I don't see how it could have been but reality is it is there and it was Dripping little bit but still dripping transmission from it my question is what would you recommend that I use I've tried the water weld it didn't work JB's adhesive metal mend I think it was and that still didn't work so I want to try one last thing I'm going to scrape everything off that I put on before I hate sand it down what do you suggest I use to stop it from leaking on the bottom of the transmission please if you have any advice I really appreciate it

[@davidgriffin14]

Red 518