Whirlpool Washer Loud clicking noise at end of spin cycle

Skip to 1:15 and 3:04 to hear the noise. Model # WTW5000DW1. The noise is very loud and can be heard though the whole house. It happens at the end of the spin cycle during dynamic braking of the drum. In the second clip, you can see the shift actuator arm move, and that there is some feedback into the arm when the clicking occurs. I replaced the splutch, and that seems to have almost completely eliminated the clicking. The drive pulley was also rubbing on the belt guard, which indicates to me that the inner shaft bearing in the gear case may be failing, which may be allowing the splutch teeth to ride over and slip. There is about 1/8" of play in the inner shaft. Will update if anything changes.

[@tdlewis103]

I've got the exact same machine and the exact same issue. Thank you for being a good detective and solving it! Now I need to get to work.

[@patricesmith1247]

I was able to do the repairs myself. Thank you for the video.

[@Onemattressatatime]

It's helped a lot . I also replaced the tub shocks thank you for the video

[@pescs334]

Excellent video man. Thank you

[@veronicaortiz2058]

This was exactly my problem , my machine washes normally but when it’s time to spin and rinse it make a clicking noise like the one in your video , it took the gear assembly apart and found a mangled gear , no idea why buy replaced it (actually 3d printed it ) and it works like a charm! Thanks man this video made that possible

[@TechnicalLee]

Which gear? The splutch I show at the end of the video or a gear inside the transmission case?

[@hanks-dances-stuff]

@@TechnicalLee Yeah it happened to me 1 year ago when we got a kenmore in 2021 (transmission)

[@hanks-dances-stuff]

Now we have a Samsung cuz it didn’t work

[@dankroeninger6868]

would you be willing to share the file for the 3D printed part?

[@kennybobby9397]

Great Job! Thanks 👍

[@kgsivaprasad2356]

Good video demonstration...!!!

[@mohammedomar1115]

Thank you brother

[@stevemoore2851]

Hope this helps. In the comments below, someone mentioned cutting 1/16th of an inch off of the long shaft side of the pully. This decreases the gap due to the transmission shaft falling due to age/usage. Once I did this and reassembled, the noise was almost gone and much quieter. So, belt pully not motor pully, long side of shaft metal insert and plastic, cut 1/16th. If a new splutch piece does not fix the issue in my case it was a no go, the cutting off of the 1\16th of an inch, seems to have quieted it down and allows the dynamic breaking to catch the teeth properly.

[@TechnicalLee]

Just to be clear, you're talking about grinding down the inside face on the splined metal insert of the transmission pulley? What type of tool did you use?

[@pescs334]

I'll give this a try and post my findings

[@evonschu]

I did this on the first replacement splutch. Made sure it was 1/16th inch. Heard horrible grinding as soon as agitation cycle start as I assume teeth were too close. I took just a hair off another spare splutch I had but did hear any difference on the loud clicking during braking. Was thinking of maybe getting another splutch and taking 1/32 off or just shy of 1/16. Can you PM me? I want to make sure I'm removing the right portion of the pulley.

[@emmettcook9799]

I saw you said you’re living with it. Has it done any further damage? I just bought a place and my washer is doing this. Wondering if it’s ok to just leave it. Thanks

[@patrickr9606]

What if I DO NOT FIX THIS? Am I ruining something??

[@user-bn2gc3gn4q]

exact same problem thanks for your help.

[@jericocaman3635]

Helfull video. I have dis whirlpool aw045638 so noisy when its in spin dry. I hav d problem before with carbon brass i fix it

[@aRealEstateBroker]

Did you figure out what this problem is/was? I replaced the cam as well but it didn’t fix the popping sound.

[@barbaraharris6273]

Yes, this is what my whirlpool washer is doing it has only 4 years almost new.

[@laynebower3821]

I have this exact washer that was exhibiting the same problem - loud clicking/snapping when slowing down. I also could never get the washer to spin smoothly; it always vibrated and shook no matter if the load was balanced or the washer was level. I determined the transmission was worn out by lifting up on the agitator. There was about 3/4" of free play up and down in the agitator. Replaced the transmission/gear case and splotch and the washer is perfect now.

[@ElevatorWasher5000]

Huh. Same issue, mine with no clothes shakes, and makes a “squeak”

[@MrCarreysovery76]

I have this same washer along with my mother-in-law and they both make this same annoying sound during the exact same moment in this cycle... I was told this was normal for this model# and just couldn't bring myself to believe it and glad I found this video...I will be looking further into repairs myself when my broke azz gets some more money and time😆... Thanks man👍🏾

[@franksta2006yeah]

So how do you fix this noise and what is wrong with it? Mine is making this noise on the high spin cycle.

[@keojye5884]

I need some advice please. I have a Roper washer and until last Dec it was working fine. It's about 9 years old. Then it started making loud clicking sounds between cycled. Not just click, click. But click, click, click about 28 times before the cycle starts. What could be the problem? Anxious.

[@xxspawnxx]

Bad motor. Get a new one

[@zcpoling]

My maytag that I just got (used, no warranty of course) makes this same exact sound even down to the intervals and amounts lol. Wonder if my parts match yours as well 🤔

[@Smurdle450]

They would most likely, whirlpool makes Maytag.

[@jimevans9753]

I replaced my splutch and still had the problem; took it back off again. While putting it on the 2nd time I noticed I can get the lock ring in just a little bit more than I did before, and that fixed the issue. So if you change the splutch make sure you hammer it all the way; just a hair off can make a difference.

[@TechnicalLee]

Or maybe you hammered the shaft sightly further into the transmission which closed the clearance gap? Maybe slid the bearings further in? I have an alternative theory about the bearing wear causing the shaft to "droop" down further due to greater end play. Lifting up on the wash plate in the machine there's quite a lot of up/down movement.

[@kwinters5550]

From 0:00 to 3:18 It's fun to see the underside of the drive mechanism in motion.

[@christophercarey3232]

I honestly wish there were more videos like this: Showing us how they work, instead of how to fix them.

[@kwinters5550]

@@christophercarey3232 I wish so too. This is the first KZbin video showing a top-load washer drive mechanism in action.

[@sixpackbinky]

I just bought one of these yesterday and it makes a weird noise filling up the water and weak agitation

[@MrKickerZz]

I replaced my splutch and the actuator and still have the same clicking noise. So not sure what the deal is...

[@appliancejunkies8378]

Had one today!

[@joshanderson4372]

I just had a lot of time invested in a similar issue, the shifter and pulley assembly was wore down, replaced those thought it was good to go but at the end of the spin cycle the machine thought it was stopped when it wasn’t and tries reversing making a hell of a noise. I’m hoping it’s the actuator didn’t have one on hand. If it’s not that it’s the main control board...

[@jesseh5559]

Might have the same problem Towards the end of the spin cycle it starts a loud clicking noise back-and-forth any luck with yours ?

[@lesliedaisley7846]

How could you change the shifter and still need an actuator they are both the same thing

[@shaikabeed6239]

Hai whirlpool fully auto matic wm oter was running very slow i will change capisiter And also but still same problem .. What was the problem??? plzzz help me..

[@JIgsaw2120]

Im guessing my problem that the teeth are not engaging to go into spin mode but I'm lubed it and clean it but it does not want to spin!

[@lesliedaisley7846]

What exactly happen to the cam assembly that you took out did you notice any difference between it and the new one you installed would be nice to know what to look for on the part to identify what is actually the cause of the problem

[@TechnicalLee]

I did not notice a difference between the new and old parts. Could be imperceivable wear differences on the teeth or a difference in spring tension.

[@abtv4814]

I have this issue and will replace this but mine also goes crazy when it spins sometimes, I think it needs bearing or shocks, no idea though. Does anyone know if I replace the part in the video does it fix loud shaking by chance too or do I have 2 separate things needing replaced

[@myfathershousevideos]

need support rods for shaking

[@abtv4814]

This is exactly how mine sounds and I’ve been googling all over to figure it out.

[@billburkhalter411]

A common problem is that coins, hair pins and assorted tiny objects get under the agitator and can cause the plastic splutch to wear prematurely or can cause the washer to not operate correctly. I had a bobbie pin that made it into the water pump and a couple of nickles too.

[@TechnicalLee]

I removed the wash plate and made sure there were no objects under it, still makes the noise. Coins do get stuck in the groove if you don't empty pockets. Thanks for the comment.

[@sixpackbinky]

Mine is not a day old and makes weird click and clunking noises and weak agitator

[@kennybobby9397]

****CLICKING FIX***** Thanks again for posting this I did replace that clutch assembly or splutch I guess it's called and still had the clicking problem. I did have play in the shaft what I did was on the new gear I removed about a 16th of an inch maybe a little less off the inner part of the spline on the new pulley not the outer it took care of the play and the clicking during dynamic braking has stopped do not take too much off just thought I'd add again thanks for a great video!

[@jimevans9753]

What part did you take 16 th off of ? The part in between transmission and belt pulley below on splutch ?

[@kennybobby9397]

@@jimevans9753 the pulley with the spline(nylon) so it takes up the play in the shaft. Hope that helps

[@oscarmartinez6258]

Good video, in my case the clicking noise was generated by a loosen drive block that holds the tub in place right underneath the wash plate, you may what to check first before replacing your splutch/cam. This happened right after I replaced the transmission unit. The washer didn't have this noise before the repair.

[@lisabilinski1929]

My 1yr Whirlpool front load washer makes the exact same "tick" noise a couple times at the beginning of the spin and then is fine after that. Is this normal?

[@henryc4787]

Yes normal

[@evonschu]

Replaced the splutch on my whirlpool WTW5000DW1 and can confirm it did not completely resolve the loud clicking on spindown cycles illustrated in this video. I then tried taking 1/16th off the end of the pulley as some suggested. The first round, even though I measured it perfect, I guess I shaved off too much as I heard horrible grinding as soon as the agitation cycle started. I then tried only 1/24th (or somewhere less than 1/16th) on another spare pulley I had . That seemed to help the clicking a decent amount. I still hear it at the very end of the cycle, but I was hearing it all throughout the cycle before so I think it helped. Maybe the gearbox or something else needs to be replaced. The washer works fine other than this annoyance and has made these clicking and popping noises when it shifts since I got it I believe. Poor design I guess. 🤷 Will keep an eye on the comments over time on this video and see if someone discovers the magic fix. One thing for sure I'm now an expert at changing splutches yay.

[@ElevatorWasher5000]

My MVWC565FW makes louder and more clicks at final spin brake. This is why I am wanting to get someone to fix it. Oh and did I mention it has a so called quiet “grinding sound” while it agitates.

[@allrock1238]

noticed The motor comes on in reverse before the basket stops. have they changed the programming to use the motor as a brake ? . Normally the washer control board reads pulses from the the optical speed sensor (that's located within the mode shiftier assembly) and waits for full basket motion stop before changing modes , make sure there there is not a fault in it reading the basket rotation speed.. the washer does have a test mode that visually displays pulses sent from that optical sensor , if bearings where worn that caused the sensor pulses to be intermittent , the washer logic board might think the basket has stopped and apply motor drive power putting a lot of stress on the splutch drive teeth..

[@TechnicalLee]

Yes it definitely brakes using the motor, that's by design. The sensor is fine, the lights progress evenly in test mode and the unit never unlocks early during a complete coast down. You can see it is not shifting modes early (1:33) since I filmed the position of the shifter.

[@luthero5060]

@@TechnicalLee Is there possibly a fix for this issue? As in making a change to the braking? Thanks for the video. I know it's old, but it's still relevant.

[@erichubert8428]

I think I have that problem, solenoid disengage before drum is done rotating… not sure what to do about that…

[@richardcruz2630]

Thanks

[@ezze-ur7fv]

Same po ba sya sa fujidenzo?

[@rickeykeeton4770]

Curious, did this make a clicking sound if you turned the agitator by hand? Did you check the nut/screw in bottom before you fixed it. Sorry, going by your user name, I assume you did. Was the okay up and down or side to side? Fellow just dropped one for me to check. I am still trying to learn more in these types. I had winder about maybe the splutch, but it sounds kind of metallic when I turn the agitator by hand. That being said, it sounds very similar to that sound.

[@alanjames3196]

Just took delivery of this exact washer today and immediately noticed this clicking the first load I washed... which lead me here. I'm assuming it is advised to call the store and reject this washer. (I think I have 3 days?) I'm so tired of the modern appliance scam. What I'd give to go back to my old early 90's hand-me-downs which I mistakenly got rid of for my wife who wanted "fancy new machines." :)

[@TechnicalLee]

Yup, I would try to return it as defective. Shouldn't be making the clicking noise.

[@alanjames3196]

@@TechnicalLee Strangely, ours has quieted down noticeably after doing 3 or 4 loads with it. It still makes the click noise, but it's now more a "click" sound than a "CLACK!!!" sound. It went from sounding like someone threw a stone at the side of the machine, to now sounding like that plastic clutch just "snapping" into place rapidly. (Which in seeing the parts in your video, I would expect those parts to make that noise when snapping into place.) I may still contact the point of sale and possibly warranty company and have it looked at just to be sure. Thanks for posting, your video has been very helpful!

[@TechnicalLee]

@@alanjames3196 If it makes just one click noise at the beginning of the spin cycle, that is normal behavior as the splutch initially engages. But if there are repeated CLACK CLACK CLACK noises at the end of the spin cycle as shown in the video, then there is a malfunction.

[@walterbatman7949]

Wow I think I will go to speed Queen next time

[@alchemy1]

These machies have two state on the spin cycle. Just like your machine indicated. The first stage is slower and shorter. The second state is faster and longer. However, what I noticed is diffierent, in your machine after the end of the first stage the shifter was in un-egaged position. The second spin cycle began as the arm moved to engaged position. With my Whirlpool, I have no clicking sound at all at the end of the fist stage, however the arm statys in place and the clutch coupler stays engaged. Yours does not remain engaged and also clicks and clicks. At the end of second stage, mine clicks and clicks. When I looked what was happening, the arm moves a little lifting the clutch coupler and os the ginrding and the clicking. There is no way it is the fault of anything just by sheer seeing what is happening. The shifter motor can not move unless the computer sends a signal to it. Therefore it is the control module problem, In fact I took the whole clutch thing and the actuator , the pulley and the belt and the motor off a working unit and installed it in this one that was clicking. Nothing changed. While I installed all that to the other good machine and was working fine. THAT IS ALL I HAVE TO SAY ABOUT THAT.

[@jimevans9753]

Did you change the control module ? And did that fix it ?

[@bethanyhouk7536]

I have a Maytag that’s made this noise since I’ve bought it brand new. Didn’t think it was normal! Already replaced the water connectors inside the washer, the ones that open and shut for filling. Why is everything plastic crap nowadays?!?! Cheap.

[@randyconn1183]

Thanks for the video. My 6000 series just did this today. It is only 4 months old. Do you know if something was actually damaged? I don't want to call a service guy if I am just going to be told this is normal break-in.

[@TechnicalLee]

It is definitely not normal break-in. I could not see any damage on anything other than some wear on the lip of the upper splutch gear. My instincts tell me the root cause is a bad bearing in the gear case that is letting the inner shaft with the pulley drop down too far. If you have technician come, make sure he pushes the inner shaft in and out to determine if there is too much play. I would push for gear box replacement under warranty since that is a $250 part.

[@PAballoonists]

Lee I think you are on the right track with the free play on the inner shaft. I had one in the shop - very quiet gearcase no bearing noise at all but does have free play. When the sputch is in the spin position and the teeth of the "cup" engage the pulley, the top lip of the cup is still slightly dragging on the splutch cam. I believe this condition is making it so when the motor is braking at the end of the spin cycle, the teeth of the sputch cup are hopping on the pulley creating the clacking sound. In the acceleration direction the teeth don't clack because the large faces of the pulley teeth are driving against the large faces of the splutch cup. When braking occurs the direction of force is reversed so the stairstep faces of the cup and pulley are carrying the load which are easier to deform a little under load and hop teeth. This was never an issue with the older wvm washers which were allowed by the software to just coast to a stop without braking

[@alchemy1]

@@PAballoonists Since the spin cycle has two stage. Are you saying the braking action is happening in both stage? Here is the behavior with my whirlpool and it is certainly different that what I see here. There is no clicking sound when the first short slow part of the spin comes to an end. I see the teeth engaged and coming to a stop. And then few seconds later it starts the second longer and faster spin mode. At the end of the second part of the spin is when mine does the clicking business. I have looked closely to see what is happening. I see clearly the arm on the shifter motor move ever so slightly up a little lifting the splutch, just enough to cause problem. There is no way I would blame the splutch or the pully or the actuator for this. It is the computer that can make the actuator motor move the arm. These whirlpool washing machines do not have brake with any of the spin modes. While GE machies do. GE machines have brakes but only the types that have magnetic reed switch so for safety they have brake and they brake fast. Magnetic switch on them does not have locking machanism. Same with their HotPoint. These machines have no reason at all to have brake to stop the spin. It makes no sense to do so. They have door locks. You can't open the door.

[@henryc4787]

Nothing wrong with it. New Whirlpool shifter design. Movement of lever to move splutch position not in sync

[@alchemy1]

@@henryc4787 I have watched my other similar exact machine, the actuator, the arm and splutch stays still. After all there is no reason for the actuator motor to move at all and for what? It is going to wash. The actuator simply has two position and not some in between Either it moves the arm up for wash cycle or down for spin and that is. If the actuator itself is not working properly, that is a different symptom. In fact I took the entire thing out of the good one and installed it on this one. It didn't same thing. While installing this on the good one, the good machine worked perfectly fine with no click click nonsense.

[@3317dorian]

Stretch the spring inside the splutch

[@appliancerepairvlogs7089]

#appliancerepairvlogs Great info

[@johnnyg507]

This is the same exat sound my Whirlpool is making, but the clicking is also *sometimes* followed by a loud grinding/machine-gun-type noise. Would the same part fix that problem as well?

[@SilverSpringHomesPro]

Mine does that, the grinding for about 3-5 seconds at the end of the rinse spin cycles. Cant find anything similar out there.

[@johntoon7172]

@@SilverSpringHomesPro Check your hub gear below the wash plate in the drum. Mine was all torn up.

[@johnnyg507]

@@SilverSpringHomesPro I ended up replacing this CAM (same part/kit as in this video) -- did not fix. Replaced the shift actuator -- did not fix. I talked to someone that does appliance repair... his suggestion was that the next step might be to pull the tub to make sure there isn't something stuck between the inner and outer tubs. Beyond that, he suggested it could be the tub bearing (although he did state that he would expect issues/noises throughout the cycle or at other times if it were a bearing) or the tub brake (however, I don't see that part listed on the schematics I've looked at, so I assume it's part of the gearcase). Guess I might try to pull the tub just to see what I see... at this point, I don't know what else to do.

[@johnnyg507]

@@johntoon7172 Thanks I'll do that! I had the washplate off the other day and it seemed ok, but I honestly was looking more for debris and didn't pay too close attention to the actual tub hub (hub on the bottom side of the wash plate looked good). I'll take it off again and take a closer look! If the tub hub were bad, wouldn't it probably be leaking water though?

[@johnnyg507]

Here is a link to the video of the sound my machine is making... kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJOYl5Kvhcunfbs I also ran a Automatic Test Mode cycle --- passed with flying colors.

[@Creekstain]

Mine seems to make a faster clicking like it's actuator or something. Happens when there is 6 minutes left and spinning. You have to shut it off to get it to stop and then it goes off again until you unplug it. Pipes rattle big time in the spin cycle. Only way to stop it is to turn the water valves off. Something isnt right lol.

[@hanadaabdelfattah4086]

Mine makes the loud "tractor like" noise throughout all the last spin stage.

[@BlindLibrary]

Regardless of which spin speed my Maytag Centennial's at, I get that "tractor"-ish noise too. Think it's a bearing grinding against something it shouldn't be?

[@brittanyturnipseed420]

We had the same issue with ours a few months after buying it, the warranty repair person came and said it’s supposed to sound like that. I have never believed this. Is the fix you described still working?

[@TechnicalLee]

Unfortunately no. Still clicks. I think the gear case is bad, allowing the inner shaft to drop down too far which allows the splutch teeth to slip because there is too much end play. The gear case is a $200 part, I'm living with it for now, but you should get it fixed under warranty if you can.

[@mooglemy3813]

This is a good video. Thanks for the detail and indicating the noise from the splutch drive and your explanation. Also folks these washer series do make wierd sounds compared to a standard old type washer. This is normal as the unit senses the load prior to washing and the cycles selected. DONT ALLOW COINS TO BE WASHED WITH CLOTHEING SMALL CHANCE CAN ENTER THE PUMP AND CAUSE NOISES SIMILAR TO THOSE HEARD AND CAN DAMAGE THE PUMP FYI folks there are a couple of different drives on for the Whirlpool Cabrio. The one shown here is a splutch drive or essentially a clutch type drive. Well explained. The noise heard is more pronounced when the basket is on the spin cycle from the top (amplified by the spinning drum). For you who are familiar with a failing ball bearing(s) that's what it sounds like. The other Whiirlpool Cabrio type has twin bearings in the basket and a drive shaft that's removable from same. Bearing sounds are similar to the splutch clutch type NOISES. So easiest way to find your model is look it up and access the parts list. Lots of info on this if you search it.

[@valorcastro5428]

@@TechnicalLee our washer makes a clicking noise even when you spend the drum by hand

[@MyCountryIsSaudiArabia215]

1:32 ASMR FUNNY LOL!!!!😂😅

[@treymontiyel]

Hi

[@duckybuttracing6297]

U woukd need to replace the cam

[@skanska2]

It didn’t work after I replaced

[@regularguyfixes3142]

All the clicking is normal that’s just actuator processes to stop drum.

[@hanks-dances-stuff]

Welling motor

[@kef103]

Normal

[@sham1234567891]

Good clip. But sound is by default too low.

[@allanjohnson6885]

This is what happens when you go from manual direct drive to digital computer washers not supported from the bottom that are made of plastic and not metal. Just complete crap you’ll constantly be guessing at if you repair. Most ppl have no clue about anything and if u go attempt a repair they quick to blame you for the trash they bought. There’s a reason washers 20 + years are still around and 5 to 10 are nowhere to be found

[@sarahm630]

My Bravo MCT has made these horribly loud sounds since day 1. Hate the thing.

[@jameseck967]

Same! It only makes the click when the motor goes into its braking phase. Looking at the teeth its tappered for ease of engagement, but the tapper allows the drum to spin when the motor is braking.

[@bahadursinghrathore6104]

Huii

[@dilip.ssenthilkumar7709]

😂😂

[@denmanfite3156]

Plastic teeth? What the fuck whirlpool.

[@kelleyhagan960]

It's a shame everything is plastic these days. That washer will have a short life.

[@mr6378]

All this washer machine now don't last long before noises and issues start many parts are plastic 😡

[@pl747]

Whirlpool used to be good. One of the worst now.