Who makes the Best Spray paint?

[@danandratis]

Hey Brad, thanks for all the time you take to make these videos, I found this one very informative - Cheers

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Dan. Glad you found it useful.

[@MimosaSTG]

Thanks for this. I'm about to paint a computer case and this really helped me out.

[@KentFoy]

Thank you Brad. Learned a lot bud.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Kent. Glad to hear it.

[@rindred]

I was about to rant by the midway point of the video before you pulled out the Montana Can. I've used the synthetic Montana Can White products on two of my guitars; one job was a scuff-and-repaint over a poly finish, and the other over a DupliColor (white) primed body. I clear-coated both with the SprayMax 2K (sprayed both bodies back-to-back with 3-4 thin coats so I could get my money's worth of that can). I'm pretty happy with the results, aside from all the things I screwed up with my painting technique; they were my first two efforts, so mistakes were inevitable. The paint is not cheap. At all. But the color palette they offer is so wide, you're pretty much guaranteed to find "your" color. I've got a future build in mind, and I'll be using Montana again when the time comes. I think that's about as ringing of an endorsement as I can give.

[@ED-op7wk]

Oxford is the best, (which I discovered thanks to Brad.) Don is also an amazing professional, and his customer service is top notch. If you’re just getting into painting guitars, I can’t recommend them highly enough, and also recommend watching Brad’s content as he definitely gives you a lot of good advice!

[@Bob-of-Zoid]

Nitrocellulose is surely the easiest to work with, especially the sanding and buffing, but as a durable finish not nearly as good as acrylic, and epoxy based lacquers which seal for not being as porous, and polyurethane is the best because it seals better than all, and is so freaking tough, but also takes longer to sand out and buff. In addition, nitro discolors over time, never really cures completely, is susceptible to changes in temperature and humidity, and the reason so many older guitars are cracked, have chemical discoloration from sweat.... and even melts if kept in a case with no airflow! Also: It's absolute bullshit that the type of paint, or how thick the coverage has any bearing on the tone of a guitar, and anyone who doesn't agree will have to show how that is scientifically even possible (mechanical wave theory), and the only place it does hold true to a small extent is with acoustic guitar soundboards as they are the part that projects it's resonance through the air to your ears. Strings cannot take on the tone of the wood, and vice versa, as the only thing that translates is wave frequency, at great loss when converting linear waves (strings) to radial waves (body, and neck), and at even more loss back to the strings which is the only thing a magnetic pickup can detect! Each material has it's own tone profile, and although there is some EQ going on, it's always due to absorption and dissipation, so nothing adds bass or treble, only absorbs or dissipates whatever frequencies more or less and for the most part the quantity is not much, and nothing that cannot be fixed with a bit of electronics which just an amp alone has plenty. Just ask your local guitar snob to show you the physics and do the math and see what happens! Then take his placebos away!

[@briansimpson8116]

In all my 54 years I haven't learned this much about spray can paint in such a short period of time. Bravo Brad. Bravo. 🇨🇦👍 VIVA LA KANAYDIA!!

[@BradAngove]

Glad I could make myself useful.

[@DM-by5sr]

@Brad Angove what is the best spray paint for car emblems. I'm looking for a gloss black spray paint that won't chip.

[@BradAngove]

Are you looking for something that can be removed and redone easily?

[@DM-by5sr]

@@BradAngove I just went to a body shop supply and bought some SEM OEM spray paint.

[@41663]

If you use it then its good enough for me. Im willing to spend the extra money for a descent paint job. You rock dude Thank you

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Dave

[@andreokazaki14]

I found your paint comparison helpful and really informative. I restore vintage motorcycles, and usually have the bodywork professionally painted. I paint some of them myself if it's not desirable enough to warrant the cost of a pro. I agree about the Krylon paints. I had a couple of bad experiences with them and will never use it again. I am in the midst of doing a 1969 Honda Z50 minibike that is candy red and silver. I am using the CAR-REP gloss 2K Clear over top. I found that the Duplicator Metalcast red over top of Metalcast silver groundcoat, gives the desired effect and the colour is relatively close to the original. Many of the 60s and 70s bikes that I restore were candy colours. The Metalcast topcoat colours are basically a clear coat tinted red in this case. You can vary the results by using different base coats, such as metallic gold, metallic silver, non metallic silver if no flake is desired etc. The amount of coats of the top colour will change how much of the base shows through, allowing you to go lighter or darker. Whatever I use for base colours, the CAR-REP 2K clear is my go to. I am guessing you are also Canadian. If so, Princess Auto put all of the CAR-REP rattle can paints and clear coats on sale for $24 this week, which is a decent savings. Thanks for making these videos. I just discovered your channel today and will eventually watch them all. 👍

[@Bob_at_OZDiggzguitars]

Great video! Thanks for this. I really want to try some of those 2K "Kustom Canz" from Custom Paints Ltd. Most of their colors come in both spray cans and the usual paint cans! Classification: Automotive/Airbrush

[@BradAngove]

I’ve heard good things about them.

[@velvethausfrau]

I’ve had great success with Montana 94 paints and spraymax 2k clear coat. The Mohawk toners, paints and clear coats are all awesome. Never got to try Oxford unfortunately.

[@BradAngove]

I’m glad the ones you have tried have been working well for you.

[@manickn6819]

Good video. Been a while since I have had a chance to look at one of your videos.

[@BradAngove]

I hope it was helpful.

[@manickn6819]

@@BradAngove Most of those paints I can never get in the Caribbean. Rust-oleum is easily accessible. I have also used 2K paints with a spray gun.

[@pops71]

You are 100% correct in my experience. I have not used Car Rep. I have used RustOleum a ton and their performance enamel in an outstanding paint for metal parts, even with no primer on properly cleaned parts. The only one I think you missed is the Mohawk Crackle Lacquer (M616-0316). Comes in black, white and clear for the spray gun. I think it’s better than Montana, but much less convenient.

[@BradAngove]

Great point. I haven’t seen the Mohawk crackle lacquer in spray cans though. I must have missed that somehow.

[@toms781]

For paint I use Dupli-color, it works really well. Tried Krylon and Rustoleum on a couple bodies but it was much harder to control and get nice results with. Had trouble with the spray nozzles. As far as Dupli-color goes, I know Leo Fender himself used Dupont automotive paints.

[@BradAngove]

Yeah, DuPont used to have some great stuff.

[@lynyrddeville]

Hey I saw that Behr has gotten into the spray paint game and I have always liked their house paint so even though I have no clue as to what type of paint is in the can, I bought their white primer and I was super impressed with its coverage power. I am continuing to try a few more of their spray products and I think it’s pretty good but your opinion would carry a lot of weight with me. I have been using the Oxford cans and think it works very well. It is pricey but does come out looking very vintage correct for sure. I’ll be stepping up to a spray gun soon, and there is going to be some learning for me, but I’m excited about it. Cheers!

[@BradAngove]

I’ve never tried the Behr spray paints, but if you like them I’m not going to dissuade you. Their paint is usually reasonable, and the durability shouldn’t be a huge issue. It’s not like it affects the sound on an electric guitar, so really it comes down to whatever you like the look and feel of as long as it’s adequately durable.

[@pdog5731]

I wondered when the magic moment would occur, and it finally did. Your description of Krylon was very gracious, because I would have used a few bad words if I had to talk about it! Basically, it's junk!

[@BradAngove]

Haha fair enough. I certainly don’t choose it if I have an alternative.

[@JohnB.6251]

Nitorlack - Spanish made. Can now get through Allparts in U.S. Not cheap, but great nozzles with fan adjustment. Had good luck on a headstock with Montana Gold Shock Black - really deep black! I've used Gracey's Vintage finishes, they are great, and true to color for vintage. Also great customer service. Thanks for your vids, Brad. Very helpful... JB

[@BradAngove]

Thanks John; that’s good to know.

[@JohnB.6251]

@@BradAngove Brad, are you still recommending the Rev Car 2K for longevity of use for multiple layers. Or better to go with the SprayMAX and do best to get two rounds in? On a Gold Top I just did in nitro paint. - John B.

[@BradAngove]

I like them both, Spraymax seems to be the more durable product in my experience, but car rep is very user friendly.

[@JohnB.6251]

@@BradAngove Thanks, Brad! This helps...

[@SubversionGarage]

I have used Duplicolor lacquers with great success on guitars.

[@BradAngove]

Good to hear

[@joegalea3652]

Hi Brad . I’m just about to respraying me strat guitar . I’m using Montana METALLIC RED .I’ve never used any of these products . Question is . CAN I USE A TWO PACK CLEAR ON TOP OF THE METALLIC RED ?? Much appreciate your advice. I thing your show is one of the best there is on here . Joe .

[@BradAngove]

Montana is generally acrylic, so the answer should be yes.

[@Tizeye]

Car-Rep 2K clear contains isocyanates so you need to take all the required precautions when spraying it the Car-Rep colours are epoxy paints which are still 2K but don't contain isocyanates. The epoxy paints are direct-to-metal paints so don't require a primer and have amazing adhesion to almost any surface

[@murpsman]

I use Dupli-color almost exclusively. Topcoated with Mohawk pre catalyzed lacquer clear gloss.

[@BradAngove]

Oooh that’s an interesting combo. I take it you’ve had success with that?

[@murpsman]

@@BradAngove Very much so. I like lacquer on lacquer because it's repairable.. It works very much like 2K but the can can last more than 48 hours. I use the dupli-color all in 1 fix it tool to repair the inevitable inevitable sand throughs. I've also used the Mohawk satin rubbed down with 0000 steel wool on guitar necks.

[@elbenja16]

100% with your choices, Car-rep definitely Is the beast!. Oxford as well. Few years ago a singer showed a project that he did with Krylon spray and Varathone polyutherane 3x from home depot and ended pretty well, very professional way. Brother, quick question, there's any link or video that could teach/show/help me using only Montana products on a guitar project?. Brother, have you tried Kustom canz?? I saw several luthiers using them.

[@BradAngove]

I haven’t done a guitar with just Montana, so I’m not sure what tutorials might be available for that. I’ve heard good things about Kustom Canz. Was trying to work something out with them to do some demos but we never got around to it.

[@elbenja16]

@@BradAngove I see.got it Brother. Thanks for the response back. Thanks as well, because I know about Car-Rep by watching your channel, I hope they get more color choices in the future. Great job brother.

[@TommySG1]

Hey Brad, I dig your videos and I’ve learned a lot from your channel. I just finished a guitar body and I used the Stew Mac nitro lacquer. The results were great but I’m also quite sure I overpaid for it too ( even with the membership discount lol ). Are you familiar with who actually makes it before Stew Mac puts their labels on them? Thanks in advance, and I’ll have to check out that Oxford line since it sounds like it’s your preferred choice here 🤙

[@BradAngove]

I’m not sure who makes the stewmac. I’m guessing it’s colortone, but that is 100% just a guess.

[@TommySG1]

@@BradAngove thanks man. It does work very well but it’s costly just like everything via Stew Mac ( Like Snap-On ). With that being said I’ll definitely be looking into the Oxford paints. Thanks again 🤙

[@TommySG1]

@@BradAngove , to my surprise ( and the yearly membership discount included ) the Stew Mac lacquers are one dollar cheaper per can.

[@shawnemenheiser1327]

Krylon lost its usefulness for me when they went to primer+paint. It’s sad because 1613 satin black was great for trim parts for auto restoration. I’ve had to upgrade to SEM trim black. It works great, but more money of course. Nice video Brad!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Shawn. I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to get on board with this primer/paint thing. This isn’t brunch. You can’t just combine two steps and assume they work haha.

[@landrysampson5923]

Hey I love the videos brad! I’m doing a little project on a first act. I’ve got the first coat of color on and there’s some dust/small hairs in my base coat. Think I could lightly wet sand the base and clear over that? Or sand then respray base coat? I put the base on heavy because I thought this might be a problem. Just worried I’m gonna respray and heave the same problem again. Lmk what you think, I would really appreciate it.

[@BradAngove]

If you can sand that out without going through the base coat then you can just clear coat. If you see issues after sanding you can add another light coat.

[@andysaucedo3226]

As always, awesome video Brad. Quick question regarding Mohawk. Is the vinyl sealer (M102-8000 aerosol can) and sanding sealer (M102-0543 aerosol can) compatible with your typical automoticlve 2 stage system--acrylic urethane clear over base coat. I'm under the impression that these two sealer are lacquer based and the base coat won't adhere--let alone the 2K clear. Am I wrong? You're the best man. 👍🏻

[@BradAngove]

My understanding is that that stuff won’t work properly over the vinyl sealer. I don’t think it’s a great idea over the sanding sealer either. I’ve done it before though successfully using an water borne acrylic in between.

[@andysaucedo3226]

@@BradAngove I figured as much. Thanks for the clarification. 👍🏻

[@TheDesertRat31]

I have some rustoleum "pro" "hard hat" paint for a restoration project, redoing a table saw fence. Is it the same basic technique with (after primer) a couple of light coats to build in coverage and the a little bit heavier final coat and let it sit?

[@BradAngove]

Yes that should work fine.

[@michaelcarey9359]

That was awesome. Not just comparison and some recommendations, but a few tips, too. Are you ever painting anything like Plexiglas, or other plastics? I've seen the "plastic parts" vid, but anything "artsy"?

[@BradAngove]

I used to. I don’t do much of that stuff these days because I work in an office, but I’ve done some interesting work painting acrylics before.

[@rindred]

You should look up videos on RPG miniatures painting (like Warhammer 40K and D&D plastic minis) if you want tips on priming and painting plastic. All I can tell you is that Krylon primer black takes forever to cure on plastic, but you can go over top of that with water-based acrylics afterwards if that's your jam.

[@tnasituning8173]

By the Way, Besides the SEM bumper trim spray, ive heard that the Krylon is Steller too for an OEM perfectly matching Finish! And Krylon makes good paint for glass and plastics, but junk on wood and Metal and most other stuff and would agree I'm NOT a very big fan either!

[@BradAngove]

I’ve used Krylon on plastic; not a big fan.

[@monks883goldandsilverleaf3]

Very good videos, question on car-rep, they say if you use there 2k gloss black or there 2k gloss white, you don’t need to use primer on metal, do you know if it will stick to lightly scuffed up glass? Trying to get a answer from car rep also.

[@BradAngove]

How lightly? It’s very difficult to get paint to stick to glass that isn’t well abraded. I sandblast my glass before painting it. I would think car rep would be just fine for blasted glass.

[@Demoncleaner78]

Quick questch. Through trial and error (also through watching your vids) I’ve managed to get a decent finish on my les Paul with watco brush lacquer (using your mix ratio) and a $14.00 princess auto gun. I was thinking of finishing up with a coat or two of the Oxford clear rattle can. My question is, would the Oxford and the watco be compatible with each other? Being that they’re both nitro based? I’m going for a “not quite” high gloss, like the Gibson vos style finish. Any experience/knowledge you might have would be appreciated. Thanks for the vids.

[@BradAngove]

I’ve never tried them together but I would think they should be compatible. I like to use a satin or semi-gloss to get the type of sheen you’re talking about, and then just hand buff it slightly to brighten it (sometimes unevenly for a vintage used look).

[@landofahhs_1]

When I saw your topic today my first thought was, " You're opening a can of worms". I enjoyed your comments and I don't own stock in any of the companies...:)

[@BradAngove]

Haha thanks Paul

[@surge98]

Do you have any recommendations for a white primer that is compatible with urethane base coat? Seems like gray is more common than white in the automotive world.

[@BradAngove]

Your best bet is to tint an automotive primer, but you should also be able to get away with a more typical enamel primer.

[@timothyharber8080]

Brad, or any commenters, have you used Oxford's color and clear over Mohawk's vinyl sealer? I have both but haven't mixed & matched. Any compatibility or adhesion issues?

[@BradAngove]

I haven’t actually tried that combo, but lacquer over vinyl sealer is a fairly common combo. I’d think it’s pretty likely to work.

[@timothyharber8080]

Thanks for the reply. About to spray Oxford's "British racing green" on a replica 60's P-Bass project. Your channel has been so helpful!

[@ceruleanguitars6281]

Always had decent results with Rustoleum... good informative video tho. Keep on painting.....

[@BradAngove]

Glad to hear it. I’ve had some good success with rustoleum on a variety of projects.

[@Gman-lf5bh]

Have you tried Duplicolor 1k Clear Coat? If so, any thoughts?

[@BradAngove]

It is. I’m not fond of it.

[@jeremiahlyleseditor437]

Which of these dries with the best Gloss on wood or if you could suggest a clear with the best Gloss on wood that would be great.

[@BradAngove]

The 2K gives a nice hard gloss but you will want to seal the wood first, or at least grain fill.

[@MadAlhazred]

What kind of paint can you use the car-rep 2k clear over?

[@BradAngove]

I generally use it over acrylic

[@user-vj6cg8zv7k]

Need some help please. What are your opinions on using a Z-poxy as a guitar body sealant (30 minute set), followed by 2-3 coats of Car-Rep 2K black high gloss Color Top Coat as a final finish? Thanks in advance for your guidance.

[@BradAngove]

I’ve never used the z-poxy but I’ve heard good things about it. That system sounds fine to me, but I haven’t tried it.

[@user-vj6cg8zv7k]

Thanks Brad. Love your videos.@@BradAngove

[@jerrodwatts55]

Hey Brad, loving all the videos. You’re great. Just subscribed. I hate to be a pain, but I’m going to paint an old jackson I have and getting overwhelmed a bit. Maybe watching too many videos at once. If you have time could you give me a very simple, point form explanation on the steps. 1. 800 grit sandpaper 2. Lacquer/prime? 3.etc I know you’ve explained everything very well but still a bit confused. Just going to use spray paint. Hopefully something I can find at home hardware or Canadian tire, auto parts store.

[@BradAngove]

Is it already painted and you’re just doing a repaint?

[@jerrodwatts55]

@@BradAngove yes. I’m still watching and think I have a bit better of an understanding. Was mostly confused when to use a lacquer or if I had to if not doing a wood finish. Thanks for reply…hate to bother you.

[@BradAngove]

You can sand the finish with 600 grit and move straight to the color phase. No need for sealer or primer if it’s already painted.

[@jerrodwatts55]

@@BradAngove Okay man, thank you very much. I’ll send you a before and after, somehow?

[@BradAngove]

You can send it to me on Instagram using the link in the description.

[@vladp3971]

When using nitro Watco spray as a clear coat I heard you need up to 4 cans is that true? I was wondering if one can is enough to just use it as a clear coat on some dupli-color perfect match color.

[@BradAngove]

It depends on what you’re painting. Is it a guitar? If so, I would say 2 cans would be easily enough. 1 is good if you’re getting a nice smooth finish already after a couple coats.

[@vladp3971]

@@BradAngove Yes it’s a guitar. Thank you

[@Andluth]

WIll oxford (or any Nitro) work under the SprayMax 2k?

[@BradAngove]

It’s not recommended, but I’ve done it successfully before.

[@kapmangaming]

Hey Brad, I’m gonna do my first solo guitar kit, what would be the best brand of cans to go to for colour and then finish ? I was thinking Duplicolor then the 2K for the finish

[@BradAngove]

That’s certainly a good option depending on what you are going for. If you’re looking for a more classic finish then I recommend Oxford supply.

[@kapmangaming]

@@BradAngove I was actually looking at Oxford just after I sent my question. I will most likely go with their products , recommend using their colouring and clear coat for the whole project ? Thank you !

[@BradAngove]

Yes, it’s nitrocellulose lacquer so you would generally want to stick with the same stuff throughout.

[@kapmangaming]

@@BradAngove thanks again, been watching all your nitrocellulose lacquer videos today and I’m confident I have a good game plan thanks to you!

[@THRobinson]

I kinda wish Krylon Fusion was still made since I just started 3D Printing and I see it recommended all the time... but otherwise, I have hated everything I've tried from Krylon. Always had issues, or just bad cans. Had a primer that came out like milk once, dried really strangely. I think of the 4 cans I've bought, 3 were tossed out. Duplicolor is low on my list as well, because had a few bad issues with it, mainly with the clear coats.

[@BradAngove]

Yeah, there’s some hit and miss stuff out there for sure.

[@luthieriadobranco8644]

who mentioned you was mike from modustrial maker ok he who recommended you for this adventure lol

[@BradAngove]

Really? I wasn’t familiar with that channel; it looks quite cool. I’m surprised he knows who I am haha.

[@joeljohnson9583]

Have you ever used spray max 1k base coat

[@BradAngove]

Yes

[@ShreddedShredder0]

What do you think of Glidden spray paint?

[@BradAngove]

I’m not familiar with that one.

[@shawnawesome7770]

Is krylon specialty lacquer a nitro?

[@BradAngove]

I doubt it, but I’m not sure. It’s probably acrylic.

[@TomL-]

So with those 2K cans....can you actually get enough on there to sand and machine polish as you would using conventional methods?

[@BradAngove]

1 can of 2K usually does about 2 guitars for me with plenty to sand and polish.

[@dongweibai4080]

I’ve been watching all your videos toward painting mine, I found online that Mohawk has enamel color spray cans and do you know what base coat and clear coat it should be work with? Also does Mohawk has nitro color spray cans?

[@BradAngove]

Mohawk does have spray nitro. If you’re using enamel you generally wouldn’t clear coat.

[@dongweibai4080]

@@BradAngove Is there a name for the specific product, been searching for nitro color spray for a while☺️

[@BradAngove]

From Mohawk? They have their tone finish toners, guitar lacquer toners, metallic aerosols, string instrument lacquer, and classic instrument lacquer that I’m aware of off the top of my head.

[@funLad80]

Hi Brad, I have watched many of your videos - I want to turn my brand new MTB fork black gloss matte. I watched your video from 2017 "How to turn gloss paint matte or satin" - do you think it will work? Or you recommend removing paint completely and painting it again with black and then matt clear coat? Fork is brand new, and it is easy to do it now as it is clean. Also I could do it your way, without removing seals and taking fork apart. Or maybe I could spray it with matt clear coat directly on gloss finish? Thank you

[@BradAngove]

If it has a gloss finish now you could simply scuff that finish with 800 grit paper and apply a matte clear coat. I’m not sure about removing seals etc.

[@funLad80]

@@BradAngove thanks for quick reply. COuld you tell me please why would you use sanding paper instead scotch brite as in your video? Thanks

[@BradAngove]

Scotch brite is also fine.

[@deanmccaskill5495]

I just got a complete kit from Great Lakes Custom. Any experience with them?

[@BradAngove]

I haven’t worked with them.

[@deanmccaskill5495]

@@BradAngove Hey Brad! I’m glad you saw this. So I bought one of this Harley kits. I basically threw a dart and got Great Lake. I asked them to put me together a nitro kit(it cost … “more” than the guitar kit) and I got a big ol box of sealer, paint, filler, laquer… etc. I’m impressed. Say… it was mixed especially for me… it arrived mid week last… what would be the drop dead shelf life if you were going to guess?

[@BradAngove]

If it’s sealed in cans it should last quite a long time. Especially cans you haven’t started using. A couple years probably as long as you shake them like crazy before you use them.

[@justinkwan3208]

Can you use spraymax 2k clear gloss over Oxford nitro Color ?

[@BradAngove]

If you let the Oxford dry fully (probably 3-4 weeks) you can. I’ve also done it the other way, using nitro over the 2K.

[@xTheZapper]

I'm not sure if you've mentioned it before but I was told 2K paint can be really dangerous, apparently people can become instantly allergic to it. So make sure you're using all the protection!

[@BradAngove]

Very dangerous. I mentioned that in this video, but only briefly.

[@Redpearl98]

Are you sure 2X is acrylic enamel? I thought it was lacquer based

[@BradAngove]

I’m pretty sure, but I’ve been wrong before.

[@tnasituning8173]

Nice Comparison Segment here... Im very Surprised SEM wasnt in here or ACME Cans and their Clearcoats are nice too I hear (owned by Sherwin Williams)... And I've heard good things about Kustom Canz (Custom Paints out of UK) KBS, Eastwood love them too... DuPont I thought would be mentioned too, but hey, can't get em all I realize. Rust-Oleum does make some of thee best Epoxy, Urethane and ESPECIALLY Enamels (7400~9400 Series Acrylic Enamel and DTM Acrylic Alkyd ENAMELS!) Industrial paint out their, KBS I love so far too... Could you Do some SEM and ZINSSER Primer tests? A segment on all the 2K Can Clears, all the Epoxy Can Primers (and High Build), Urethane Can Primers (and High Build), and Primer Sealers in a can... Self Etching Can Primers you could do, but everyone knows that that phosphoric acid (etching) bare metal and spraying Epoxy Primer instead is a more rugged and durable option (not too mention that EPOXY PRIMERS ARE TECHNICALLY A SEALER!, where as Self Etching Primers are more porous, especially the Polyester Primers and feather fill Polyester Primers in both regular and High Build... Regular Urethane Primers over Epoxy Primer Sealers are definitely the way too go for sure... Only Polyester-Primers that say they are good for DTM (Direct to Metal) I'd use on bare metal... The only problem with most Epoxy Primers is they are more harder to sand (not all but most) and they only allow for typically up to a 12 hour window where you can lay down another coat, otherwise you will have to wait a good 4-7 days to cure, depending on your climate zone, + thats when you're able to sand again, so if you don't re-coat or sand within a short specified time, you MUST wait for it to Finish its curing process cause solvents need to escape and gas off fir it to cure and harden, otherwise sanding WON'T be any FUN and clog the crap out of your sandpaper... once you're outside that window time frame, U MUST ALLOW TO SIT AND CURE, AND U MUST RESAND BEFORE REAPPLYING OR TOPCOATING WITH URETHANE PRIMER/BASE COAT! DO SOME MORE PRIMERS! PLEASE! AND THAT CAR REP STUFF HAVING A 2K PRIMER AND 2K CLEAR, THAT LAST SUCH A LONG TIME, IS DEFINITELY A GAME CHANGER NO DOUBT!!!

[@BradAngove]

So… more videos then hey?

[@tnasituning8173]

@@BradAngove Yeah a segment of 1k Epoxy Primers out of the can, a segment of 1k PolyUrethane Primers out of the can, a segment of 1k Polyester Primers out of the Can, segment of 1k Ceramic Primers out if the Can, a Segment of 1k Primers made for Acrylic Enamel/Acrylic Alkyd ENAMEL Paints... Then do in same for these 5 types of Primers but in a 2k version... so 5 more separate segments of the same but 2k Epoxy Primers, 2k PolyUrethane Primers, 2k Polyester/Feather Fill Primers, 2k Ceramic Primers, 2k Primers for Acrylics~Enamels... 👏🏾🙌🏽 You can also do a Self Etching Primer segment but I dont really see the need to as most self etching Primers I found to be just fine but there certainly are some with profound differences between one another out there... + It seems like more and more now self-etching primer are becoming somewhat a thing of the past because of the DTM (DIRECT TO METAL) capabilities of Epoxy Primers, Polyester Primers, and Acrylic Alkyd ENAMEL DTM product's nowadays...

[@tnasituning8173]

On another note one thing I can tell you (getting a little off the PRIMER topic here) is that for Clear coats acrylic lacquer clear coat is NOT too hot, but the Rust-Oleum Enamel Clear Coat is Really Good... Pretty close to a 2k but obviously without a fresh hardener activator its not ever going to be as perfect

[@monks883goldandsilverleaf3]

Have you ever had a chance to experiment with car-rep 2k clear vers spray max 2k clear? I tried car-rep 2k clear. What’s happening my project looks real good after spraying 2k car-rep clear. I let it cure 1-2 days, still shiny, I have to wet sand the orange peel. I let it sit over night then compound and polish. Looks super, however the next day I have all these cracks and webs thru out the project. I contacted car-rep and they are trying to help me. Hoping you have insight. I can give more detail?

[@BradAngove]

I’ve tried both. Question for you: what did you use under the car-rep 2k?

[@monks883goldandsilverleaf3]

@@BradAngove after I wrote you I went thru your videos and seen the one on crazing. I had one project come out great and the other with crazing. The bad one I used zinsser’s 123 all in one primer, duplicolor shadow chrome, gold and silver leaf. I did not have any issue until the following day after compound and polishing with a polisher. The good project cannot remember the primer used, duplicolor perfect match, and I applied car-rep 30 mins. After spraying duplicolor. Also used gold and silver leaf. Note: car-rep said they recommend at least one week cure time while using 1k products, then use 2k.

[@BradAngove]

Ok, so you didn’t use it over prior 2K car rep color then?

[@monks883goldandsilverleaf3]

@@BradAngove no, I have used it over duplicolor perfect match and I am not sure the other paint. I had one project turn out and one did not. The one that did had longer times in between spraying as waiting for good weather. The bad one was kind of rushed and Harley any cure times

[@BradAngove]

You probably had solvent from the first layer trying to evaporate through the 2K and it caused cracking because the first layers hadn’t dried sufficiently.

[@Iammricoflly]

Which one smells the best

[@BradAngove]

By best, do you mean the least deadly?

[@Iammricoflly]

@@BradAngove lol i just like the smell of them i dont huff but if someone is spraying ill walk past it

[@BradAngove]

Yikes. Well try to avoid smelling the 2K. That stuff will kill you even faster than the others.

[@hectoromar2304]

I didn't know that Christian Bale could paint a guitar so well!!! 💯👏😲👍

[@luthieriadobranco8644]

great work !!! I'm a luthier and I try to swirl or marbeling on guitars, I bought the pebeo marbeling paints, and I got a formula ready for the paints to float easily, but when I apply the paint or background on the guitar and do the dip, the designs run and don't stick to the piece ! I've been trying for almost a year, please what base paint should I use to make the swirl stick to the guitar? thank you very much

[@BradAngove]

I’m not familiar with that specific paint. When I do swirling, which I don’t on guitars, I use enamel.

[@luthieriadobranco8644]

Good afternoon, I need help, I'm trying to make a swirl or also known as marbeling, I've made great advances, I'm a luthier I would like to paint my guitars by immersion in water, I'll report my advances to simplify 1-) water density: I have already achieved a good density with the following products: CMC, carrageenan and emulsifier (nestle) 2: Paints: I managed to make the paints float and make drawings under these solutions already listed in the previous item, I have already used the following paints, food dyes, water-based paints, acrylic paints and special paints from the pebeo brand made for marbling 3-) I can transfer my drawings perfectly to plain paper or potassium sulfate treated paper, 4-) I need to make this happen on guitars that I have to apply a sealant base, I was told to use the white spray from the brand rust oleum ultracover 2x, I apply it on the wood, however unfortunately, every time I do the immersion in any of the paints the drawings are destroyed and run down the body of the guitar, they just don't stick. Please, I need to know which product to apply under the wood after I have applied the rust oleum base so that the designs remain on the guitar.

[@BradAngove]

Have you tried applying them to wood without the sealer to see if that’s the problem?

[@luthieriadobranco8644]

@@BradAngove yes straight on the wood is perfect brad !! use initia pebeo marbeling ! I don't know the basis of these paints! if it's acrylic resin from the little I found about it, which primer should I use? Can I talk to you directly through some channel? WhatsApp etc.... I spent a lot of money and I can't make it work!!! Thank you so much for your kindness and attention to me!!

[@BradAngove]

I’m glad to hear it’s working straight on wood. It must be a smoothness issue. The rustoleum should be ok, but try leaving it on there for two days and then sanding it with 320 grit so it has some roughness for your graphics to stick to.

[@luthieriadobranco8644]

@@BradAngove ok thank you very much for everything !!! do you have Instagram? look at the email that the factory in franca sent me today!! I think you are having trouble with the base. That Rustoleum base you are putting on is preventing the adhesion of the paints. It is just very difficult to paint waterbased paints over a solvent base unless it is a primer. Normally you would do all your waterbased layers first and then put a solvent varnish overtop in thin layers. The other thing that is probably an issue is the amount of alum that is on your guitar. For paper, you need a lot as it is an absorbent surface. You have a fairly non-porous surface. You need a very fine layer of alum. We recommend 2 teaspoon in a gallon for fabric. You need less than that. 1 teaspoon in a gallon or even 1/2 a teaspoon in a gallon. Instead of soaking the whole thing. Put it in a spray bottle and just lightly and evenly coat the surface. Is there a water based spray you can use on the wood? Or maybe a primer that is meant to be painted over with waterbased paint? I am sure that rustoleum layer isn't allowing anything to stick including the alum. Looks like the paint is sticking to the alum and not the guitar. The alum is washing off.

[@MichaelScottPerkins]

At Home Depot, I just bought some "Behr" spray paint that they market as their "Premium" spray paint. It is a Primer + Paint, so... you might hate it. 🙂 I will say that the can/nozzle itself is excellent. It sprayed very well. No spattering or anything weird. But... I will also say... the actual color of the paint is very different from the color of the plastic cap. I bought the "Beyond Navy" color, because I needed a very deep, almost black, navy blue. The plastic cap looked perfect. The actual paint (after 3 coats) still dried to a much more vibrant blue than I was expecting. But... the paint itself is good. I think. Just my .00002 cents

[@BradAngove]

Glad to hear it. Those paints are decent for some applications.

[@BradHutchings]

Dude, the K in 2K is for Katalyzed. Duh!

[@BradAngove]

Of course. What was I thinking…

[@Bob-of-Zoid]

Anyone saying Paint needing water to dry is impossible is clueless! For over a decade now polyurethane glue absolutely need moisture to activate, or it will just be a gummy mess that will take forever to dry and cure if at all, once the surrounding area does and moisture cannot penetrate into the now sealed off areas! Same goes for some polyurethane paints and acrylics have been made to be water based, and not necessarily water as a solvent, but as the activator! Shit, even with cyanoacrylate (Superglue) water can be used as an alternative to an activator, albeit not as fast acting. The reality is that water is a chemical, and really the most widely used one because of it's many properties, including that it has more states than any other which almost all share solid, liquid and gas, and water has intermediates and then some! Typical for people who have no clue about science to think science can be pulled out of their ass and be true based on wild guesses based on their lack of understanding and what little they already know! If it were only that easy, we all would have Nobel prizes!

[@rockerpat1085]

Dude I Painted My 76 Corvette With That Metal Specs Retro Red!!! 40 Cans And Then Cleared Over It!!! Looks Spectacular!!! You Can Check It Out On My Channel!!! Keep Rocking!!!

[@BradAngove]

Glad to hear it